History of Colorado; Volume I, Part 3

Author: Stone, Wilbur Fiske, 1833-1920, ed
Publication date: 1918
Publisher: Chicago, S. J. Clarke
Number of Pages: 954

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In the south central part of the state lies what is known as the San Luis Valley. Skirting the south and west are sections rich in coal and minerals. For the purpose of a topographical description the central and south central section comprises Mineral, Rio Grande, Saguache, Conejos, Costilla, Alamosa, Chaffee, Custer, Huerfano and Las Animas counties.

The west boundary of Chaffee County is formed by the Continental Divide of the Saguache Range, and the east boundary follows the more prominent peaks of the Park Range. The intervening valley embraces the Arkansas River, which with its tributaries affords drainage for the county. This valley varies from an altitude of 7,000 feet at the southern to 9,000 feet at the northern boundary. While it is quite narrow near the south-central portion of the county, the valley widens to twelve or fifteen miles and carries this width for about thirty miles in the central portion. The Saguache Range on the west rises to 14,375 feet at Mount Shavano, 14,245 at Mount Antero, Princeton 14,190, Yale 14,187, Haywood 14,575, and La Plata 14,311 feet above sea level.

On the west the main tributaries of the Arkansas River are Cash, Clear, Pine, Cottonwood, Chalk, Browns, Boyds, South Arkansas and Poncha creeks. On the east, Sweetwater, Badger and Trout creeks. These streams in the main course through the granite-gneiss complex or metamorphic rocks common to the Rocky Mountain system. Near the base of the mountains they usually occupy more or less rugged canyons and locally expose remnants of strata assignable to the Paleozoic.

The Chalk Creek Hot Springs near Haywood have a temperature of 150° Fahrenheit ; Poncha Springs, a group of hot mineral waters range in tempera- ture from 90° to 168°, Fahrenheit.

The southern and southwestern section of the state comprises San Miguel, Dolores, San Juan, Ouray, Hinsdale, Archuleta, La Plata and Montezuma coun- ties, including in the larger part of these boundaries what is known as the San Juan country and one of the richest and most productive sections of the state.

The territory embraced within San Juan County boundaries, about 480 square

HISTORY OF COLORADO

miles, is very mountainous. The San Juan Mountains on the north and Needle Mountains in the south, with their numerous spurs, cover the entire county. The intervening valleys are quite narrow in the main, but occasionally widen out into small park-like areas. Baker's Park is the largest and has a mean alti- tude of about 9,200 feet above sea level. Through it flows the Animas River in a southerly course, affording the main drainage of the county. The narrow valleys adjoining Baker's Park are traversed by mountain streams that find source in large oval basins or cirques near the summit of the surrounding moun- tains. The mountains reach a maximum altitude of nearly 14,000 feet above sea level. The lower mountain slopes are covered with a heavy growth of spruce timber, which ceases to grow at an altitude varying from 10,000 to 11,000 feet. The area above "timber line" in San Juan County is greater in proportion to the total area of the county than in any other sub-division of the state.

San Miguel County in its eastern portion is characterized by rugged moun- tains with numerous cliff exposures, cut by deep, narrow canyons. The moun- tains culminate in numerous peaks that reach an altitude of nearly 14,000 feet above sea level, and the intervening gulches have been eroded to a mean eleva- tion of about 9,000 feet. The west portion of the county embraces the eastern limit of the Great Sage Plains of Utah, having a mean elevation of about 7,500 feet.

Dolores County embraces an area of about 1,000 square miles. The east part of the county is mountainous, with rugged peaks rising from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above sea level. The west, and by far the greater part, consists of elevated plateaus sloping gradually toward the west and varying from an alti- tude of 8,500 feet near the mountains to about 6,000 feet near the Utah line. The mountain area is drained by the East and West forks of the Dolores River and numérous tributaries. These streams have a general southwest and south course and unite about twenty miles below Rico in Montezuma County. The main river makes a somewhat lengthy detour south and west, then turns north- ward and crosses Dolores County a short distance east of the Utah line.

In the Hayden atlas, based upon work of the survey in 1874-76, the moun- tains of eastern Dolores County are designated as the "Bear River Mountains." Later work of the geological survey has for good reasons changed the name to the Rico Mountains.

Hinsdale County consists of rugged mountain chains, with comparatively narrow valleys intervening, well-watered by streams. The valleys occasionally widen into comparatively level parks and vary in altitude from 8,000 to 9,000 feet above the sea level. The mountains in individual peaks are from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above tide-water. Uncompahgre Peak, in the northwest corner, is 14,289 feet, and is one of the highest in the state. The San Juan Mountains form the west boundary in the northern part and cross the south portion of the county in a southeast direction. Near the center of the west boundary a spur extends from the San Juan Range in a northeast direction and joins the Coche- topa Hills in Saguache County. This range-spur forms the Continental Divide at this point. The territory embraced within county boundaries is therefore on both the Atlantic and Pacific slopes. The north portion drains through the Gunnison River, the south through San Juan, both streams emptying later

HISTORY OF COLORADO

into the Colorado on the Pacific Slope. The central portion drains through the Rio Grande to the Atlantic side.

Archuleta County as a whole is a hilly one, composed of numerous mesas and ridges of sedimentary rock, intersected with equally numerous valleys locally widening into parks. The hills and mesas are timbered with some of the finest timber in the state, principally white pine, yellow pine, red and white spruce. These trees often attain a thickness of three feet or more, and run up for fifty or sixty feet, a straight column without a branch.

The peaks of the adjacent Conejos Range average from 12,000 to 13,500 feet. The average altitude of the valleys and parks is between 7,000 and 8,000 feet. The mesas may rise 500 feet above this.

Prior to the advent of the white man what are now termed Pagosa Springs were known among the Indians as the "Great Medicine Waters," or "Healing Waters," and their possession jealously guarded. The main spring basin is 50 by 75 feet in size, and presents the appearance of an immense seething caldron. The temperature of the water is 148 degrees Fahrenheit. The outlet from this pool evidences the probability of the springs being justly entitled to the claim of the "largest hot spring in the world."

Montezuma County embraces the eastern limits of the Utah Plains, through which two isolated groups of mountains have risen. The El Late group occupies about forty square miles in the southwest portion, which in individual peaks, reach an altitude of 10,000 feet above sea level. La Plata Mountains are in the northeast part of the county, and the culminating peaks reach an altitude of over thirteen thousand feet. The plateau, from the base of the La Plata group, de- scends in a gradual slope from 7,000 to 5,000 feet at the west county boundary. The drainage of the east and south portions of the county is through the Rio de la Mancos and its tributaries. The northern portion drains into the Dolores River, which enters, makes a big bend, and finds egress through the north boundary line.

La Plata County .- The topographical features of the southwestern section are those common to rugged mountains, flanked by foothills and lofty mesas, inter- sected by streams and gulches cutting through the country at irregular intervals. In the north part of La Plata County are the Needle Mountains, in the west- central portion the La Plata Mountains, each containing peaks that reach an alti- tude of between 13,000 and 14,000 feet above sea level. The valley and mesa lands vary from an elevation of 6,500 feet, at Durango, to 6,100 feet, near the southern border. The county is well watered, and drains through three principal streams, viz., La Plata, Animas and Los Pinos rivers. These streams are roughly parallel, rise in the lofty mountain ranges lying on the northwest and north, and flow in a southerly course. The La Plata drains the west, the Animas the central and the Los Pinos the east portions of this section.

Mineral springs, both hot and cold, occur in several localities. The best im- proved are the Trimble Hot Springs, about nine miles from Durango.

With the exception of a small portion in the north end, the topography of Ouray County is that of rugged mountains, a number of which reach an altitude of 13,000 to over fourteen thousand feet above sea level. The various streams head, generally, in large open basins, or glacial cirques, well up above timber line,

HISTORY OF COLORADO

and near the top of the culminating ridges connecting the more prominent moun- tain peaks. Below the basins, these streams occupy eroded valleys or gulches, gradually deepening into somewhat narrow canyons, and finally uniting with the Uncompahgre River, and making exit through the north county boundary line at an altitude of 6,500 feet. Timber is abundant on the various mountain slopes, and grows to an elevation of 10,500 to 11,500 feet above sea level.

Ouray County, in its southern portion embraces a small part of the San Juan Mountains composed almost entirely of volcanic rocks. These rocks consist, in the main, of tuffs, agglomerates and lavas of andesite and rhyolite. In the up- per horizons the different lava flows lie practically horizontal, differ somewhat in color and present a stratified appearance. Later, this volcanic complex has been penetrated by a variety of eruptive rocks in the form of somewhat massive intrusions and numerous dikes.

Lake County is situated on the west flank of the Mosquito Range, near the head or north end of Arkansas Valley, and has a mean elevation of 10,200 feet. The Saguache Range on the west and the Mosquito Range on the east have a comparatively uniform elevation of from thirteen thousand to fourteen thousand feet above sea level. The north as well as west boundary form the Continental Divide. This basin-like area is drained by the Arkansas River, which flows in a southerly course, and a number of tributaries that rise in the mountain ranges upon the east and west sides. In the vicinity of Leadville the Arkansas flows through a comparatively flat and level valley, six to ten miles wide. On either side mesa-like benches rise one above the other to the foothills flanking the mountain ranges. The City of Leadville occupies one of these mesas, about three miles west of the river valley proper, near the base of the rounded foot- hills, and north of California Gulch.

Summit County is embraced within boundaries that are outlined by the crests of mountain ranges, viz., the Williams River Mountains on the east, the Conti- nental Divide on the south, and the Park Range on the west. The included terri- tory lies wholly on the Pacific Slope and embraces the valleys of the Blue, Swan, Snake and Ten Mile rivers, with the drainage basins of their tributaries, all of which unite with the Blue and form one of the large tributaries of Grand River, which it joins near the north county boundary.

In the central west lie Rio Blanco, Garfield, Mesa, Delta and Montrose coun- ties.

Rio Blanco is included within the drainage basins formed by the Yampa Plateau, Danforth Hills and Williams River Mountains on the north and east, and the White River Plateau, Book Cliffs and Roan or Book Plateau on the south. The White River Valley rises from an altitude of five thousand feet at the western boundary of the county to nine thousand feet near the eastern limit. The mountain peaks in the eastern part vary from ten thousand to twelve thou- sand five hundred feet, and the plateaus on the north and south from eight thousand to nine thousand five hundred feet above sea level.

In Garfield County the drainage is through the Grand River, which enters the east county boundary near the center and flows in a general southwest direction, passing through the south boundary line west of the center. The main tributaries from the south are Roaring Fork, Divide and Maroon creeks; from the north, Elk. Rifle, Parachute and Roan. These streams occupy narrow valleys, which

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GATEWAY TO THE GARDEN OF THE GODS, COLORADO SPRINGS

HISTORY OF COLORADO

locally open out into comparatively wide and level parks, and in other places are closely confined by narrow walls.

Along the Grand River, Garfield County, for a distance of a half-mile or more are noted hot springs. They occur at intervals, and appear to issue from a fissure in the Paleozoic rocks. The largest and best improved are on the north side of the river. The largest group of springs, called the Yampa, has a flow of about two thousand gallons per minute and has a temperature of 120 degrees Fahren- heit.

In Mesa County the drainage is through the Grand and Gunnison rivers, two of the largest streams in the state. The valleys along these streams and tribu- taries are of varying width, but are, in the main, comparatively wide and very fertile.

The northeast portion of Montrose County embraces the southern limit of the West Elk Mountains. Through this section the Gunnison River flows.

The Cerro Hills separate the valleys of the Uncompahgre and Cimarron, and both have streams that rise well back in the rugged San Juan Mountains, lying south of the southern boundary line. The Uncompahgre River flows north and northwest through the country to its junction with the Gunnison River. On the west and southwest side of the river the broad valley rises gradually from six thousand to ten thousand feet above sea level to another broad mesa known as the Uncompahgre Plateau. From the northeast slope of this plateau a number of streams flow in a northeasterly course and join the Uncompahgre River. Still farther west there is another comparatively level mesa known as the San Miguel Plateau. This plateau is drained by tributaries that flow westward and join the San Miguel and Dolores rivers. Just beyond the west border are the Sierra la Sal Mountains.

In Delta County the north and east county boundaries are outlined by natural topographical divisions. The higher points rise from ten- thousand to twelve thousand feet above sea level, and the valleys vary in altitude from four thousand eight hundred to six thousand five hundred feet.

In the next group, northwestern Colorado, are Larimer, Jackson, Grand, Routt, and Moffat.

The east portion of Larimer County embraces about eighteen miles of the western limits of the Great Plains section. In the western portion the Front Range of the Rocky Mountain system ceases, and merges into the Medicine Bow Range in Jackson County. These ranges have a general northwesterly course. The Park Range, on the west, separates Routt and Jackson counties, and the north limit of the Front Range is topographically connected with the Park Range by an east and west chain, which chain, with the Park and Front ranges, form the Continental Divide. North Park is a large basin-like section, in the west part of the county, lying between the Park and Medicine Bow ranges, and north of the range connecting the two, and separating North and Middle parks, the latter in Grand County. North Park proper is a broad, comparatively level basin, free of timber, thirty miles wide, east and west, by forty miles long, north and south. The altitude ranges from eight thousand to nine thousand feet above sea level. The plains section in the east part of Larimer County varies from five thousand to five thousand five hundred feet, and the mountain chains culminate in Jackson

HISTORY OF COLORADO

County in numerous peaks ranging from eleven thousand to fourteen thousand feet above tide-water.

The drainage is through the Little and Big Thompson and Cache la Poudre rivers, which flow in a general southeast direction and unite with the South Platte River. The North Platte River finds source through a number of radiat- ing tributaries in North Park and flows north into Wyoming. The Big Laramie River and tributaries drain the east slope of the Medicine Bow Range and flow north into the Laramie Plains of Wyoming.

In Grand County is the Front Range; on the south, the Williams River Moun- tains ; on the west, the Park Range; and on the north, an east and west range that connects the Front and Park ranges, separates North from Middle Park, and forms the Continental Divide.

The entire drainage is through the Grand River and its tributaries. This stream flows practically east and west through the center of the county, and its tributaries have a general north or south course. Near the east boundary the Grand River proper divides into two main branches, known as the North and South forks. These branches, with their tributaries, drain the west slope of the Front Range. From the south the Frazer, Williams and Blue rivers are the main tributaries to the Grand River, and all flow in a northerly course. Between the Frazer and Williams rivers there is a mountain range called the Vasquez Moun- tains. Between the Williams River and the Blue is a range known as the Wil- liams River Mountains. These ranges or spurs are roughly parallel to the Park and Front ranges, and the east and west slopes have a number of small streams that are tributary to the main streams which occupy the intervening valleys. The north part of the county has a series of streams that flow south to the Grand. The principal streams from east to west are the Stillwater, Willow, Troublesome and Muddy creeks. Each of these streams has a number of tributaries and occupies a valley separated by ridges, but not so pronounced as those on the south side.

The central portion of the county is known as Middle Park. It differs ma- terially, however, from the broad, open and comparatively level and timberless basins known as North and South parks. Middle Park is practically a series of valleys along Grand River, with the contiguous valleys of the tributaries of the river. The intervening ridges are as a rule heavily timbered, and little idea of the general topography may be gained except from some of the prominent sur- rounding mountain peaks. Locally the valley land is much restricted, but gen- erally the valleys are of good width and comparatively level. They vary in alti- tude from seven thousand to nine thousand feet. The surrounding mountains have numerous peaks that reach 12,000 and Long's Peak, on the east, passes above the fourteen thousand foot mark.

Routt and Moffat counties extend to the northwestern corner of the state. Near the northeast corner the eruptive mountain group called the Elk Head Mountains is the most prominent uplift. This group contains a number of cul- minating points that reach an altitude of nearly eleven thousand feet, the most prominent and perhaps best known being Hahn's and Anita peaks. Both of these are very prominent landmarks, the latter being generally called the "Bear's Ears," on account of its peculiar formation. Along the south part of the county the Williams River Mountains, Danforth Hills and Yampa Plateau, are elevated portions varying in altitude from eight thousand to nearly ten thousand feet. The Vol. 1-2

HISTORY OF COLORADO

main drainage is through the Yampa or Bear River, which flows in a general west- ward course through the center of the section and is joined by numerous tribu- taries from north and south. The main streams from the north are Elk, Elk Head, . Fortification and Little Snake; from the south, Williams River and Milk Creek.

It contains 150 mineral springs, all of which differ more or less in amount of solids held in suspension and in accompanying gases.

Gunnison, Pitkin, Eagle, Lake and Summit are a central group with a varying topography. The Continental Divide or Saguache Range, forms the east boundary line of Gunnison County, and has a general north and south course.

The main drainage is through the Gunnison River, which flows westward and departs from the county south of its center through the well known Black Cañon. Numerous tributaries join the river in the canyon. From the south the principal streams are Lake Fork and White Earth creeks; from the north, Curecanti, Sapi- nero, West Elk and Ohio creeks. Near Gunnison, which is the county seat and occupies a south-central position in the county, the Tomichi joins the river. This stream carries the waters from the southeast part and its main branches find source well up toward the Continental Divide. Gunnison River is formed by the junction of Slate and Taylor rivers at Almont, about nine miles north of Gunnison. These streams, with tributaries, care for the waters in the northeast ; the North Fork of the Gunnison carries the drainage from the northwest, and the extreme north section is drained by Rock Creek, which is tributary to the Grand River.

The topography of Pitkin County, taken as a whole, is quite diversified. On the east is the Continental Divide of the Saguache Range, separating Pitkin and Lake counties, and in the south and west sections embrace in part the Elk Moun- tains. Both of these ranges contain noted landmarks, such as Mount Massive on the east, 14,424 feet, and Castle Peak, 14,115 feet, and Maroon Mountain, 14,008 feet above sea level, on the south. The general drainage is toward the northwest through the Roaring Fork, one of the main tributaries of Grand River. The main tributaries of Roaring Fork are Frying Pan, Hunter, Woody, Lincoln, Diffi- cult, Castle, Maroon, Sopris, Avalanche and Rock creeks. These with their nu- merous small feeders receive the waters from drainage basins near the mountain divides at a varying altitude of ten thousand to thirteen thousand feet, and eventu- ally unite and pass out through the Roaring Fork Valley at an altitude of about six thousand six hundred feet.

The drainage of Eagle County is to the Pacific Slope and through the Frying Pan, Eagle and Grand rivers and the Piney. The Frying Pan and tributaries are in the southwest part of the county. The Eagle River rises near the south- east corner, flows approximately north to the center of the county, then turns west and joins the Grand. The Grand River flows in a southwest direction through the northwest portion, and the Piney, in the east and northeast, flows northwest and joins the Grand. All these streams have numerous tributaries of more or less importance. The crest of the Park Range of mountains on the east forms the dividing line between Eagle and Summit counties. This range is quite rugged, and rises in peaks to over twelve thousand feet above sea level. Near the south boundary the most prominent landmark is the Mount of the Holy Cross. This peak rises to an elevation exceeding fourteen thousand feet, and practically marks the northern limit of the Saguache Range.

HISTORY OF COLORADO

The Great Plains section of Colorado extends from the foothills to its eastern boundary. There are no large streams in the northern district with the excep- tion of the Platte River. The small streams in the southern part flow south to the Arkansas River and in the north to the South Platte. The Republican River rises in this district and is fed by many small streams. The average annual rainfall here varies from twelve to twenty inches. In what is called the Divide between the Arkansas and the Platte rivers from the foothills east the rainfall is con- siderably heavier than on the lower lands on both sides.

The surface throughout is level or gently rolling with a few restricted areas of valley or broken land. The soil is largely a sandy loam varying greatly in depth.

CHAPTER II

THE SPANISH AND FRENCH PERIODS OF EXPLORATION

SPANISH JURISDICTION-DE VACA'S EXPLORATION-CORONADO'S EXPEDITION- FATHER PADILLA'S FATE-MOSCOSCO'S MARCH-ONATE'S EXPEDITION-BONIL- LA'S EXPEDITION-ONATE'S SECOND EXPEDITION-PUEBLO UPRISING-THE FRENCH MENACE-VALVERDE'S EXPEDITION-ESCALANTE'S EXPLORATIONS-THE LAST SPANISH EXPEDITION-THE FRENCH-FRENCH BELIEFS AND CLAIMS-DU TISNE-LA HARPE-BOURGMONT'S SECOND APPEARANCE-THE MALLET BROTHERS -FABREE DE LA BRUYERE-GOVERNMENTAL ASPECTS

THE SPANISH

SPANISH JURISDICTION

In order to give a proper perspective to the history of modern Colorado, its growth, institutions and relative matters, a few prefatory remarks concerning the early Spanish, French and English periods of explorations are necessary. Upon this solid groundwork of discovery and romantic tradition the story of the State of Colorado is laid. These adventurous and danger-loving men who first traversed the ranges, canyons and mountains of this country were actuated by the greed of their native countries across the sea, but they failed to build strongly and the land eventually became the permanent possession of the United States. But it is with these early explorations that we now have to do.

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History of Colorado; Volume I, Part 3

Author: Stone, Wilbur Fiske, 1833-1920, ed Publication date: 1918 Publisher: Chicago, S. J. Clarke Number of Pages: 954

Author: Stone, Wilbur Fiske, 1833-1920, ed
Publication date: 1918
Publisher: Chicago, S. J. Clarke
Number of Pages: 954