USA > Maine > Knox County > Matinicus Isle > Matinicus Isle, its story and its people > Part 4
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MATINICUS HARBOR
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"Capt. Henry" ceased carrying the mail in 1888, when that branch of the service was taken over by Capt. Hiram Smith. However, he and "Hanse" and his staunch craft continued to serve the public and made regular trips for nearly twenty years thereafter. "Capt. Hi" utilized the schooners "Ida Grover" and "David Osier," and the steamer "Jessie," in the order given.
THE JULIA FAIRBANKS
During the years that transportation was maintained by means of sailing vessels, crossing the bay was something of an adventure, and the time of arrival at one's destination was somewhat uncertain. Wind and weather were the deciding factors. If the wind happened to be favorable and fresh,-all well and good. On the other hand, should strong head winds prevail, necessitating a continual beating to and fro, the time consumed in the journey would be materially extended. Another cause of delay would be the lack of any wind whatsoever. Oftentimes after starting, the packet would be becalmed and drift about in the Bay until sooner or later, a breeze would arise, and send it on its way. At such times "Hanse and Henry" were genial
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hosts. Food was served, bunks were provided, and pas- sengers made comfortable. All that was necessary to carry one through this experience was more or less patience, depending upon the length of the delay.
In 1897, Capt. William G. Butman in a steamer of the same name, of forty-three gross tons, built at Boothbay for the purpose, began the operation of the mail route. For nearly a quarter of a century he served the public in this capacity, and for the greater part of that time,-as long as the "Butman" was afloat-the efficiency of the service could not have been surpassed. The mails went through when it
THE BUTMAN
seemed impossible that the little steamer could make it, and when much larger and supposedly stauncher craft laid snugly at their docks. It is said that in twenty years he lost only one trip. Delayed for a day or two he sometimes' was, but before the expiration of the time limit he had completed the trips called for in his contract, viz., three round trips per week during the months from May to October, inclusive, and two round trips per week during the remainder of the year.
On May 27, 1916, seven miles from Matinicus, on her return trip to Rockland, with scarcely any warning, the "Butman" filled and sank. The irony of it! This time- tested craft which had braved the tempests and defied the seas for so many years, gave up the ghost and quietly went
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to the bottom, in a smooth sea, on a calm, bright day. No wonder that Capt. Butman was never the same man after- wards. It took something out of him. The cause of her foundering will always remain a mystery. The passengers and crew had barely time to gather the mail-sacks and take to the two small boats, by means of which they returned to Matinicus. The passengers were E. E. Jameson of Warren, and George Ring, Horace Young, Mrs. Frank W. Ames, and Miss Catherine Ames of Matinicus. Miss Ames, with her mother, was on her way to select the trousseau for her
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EXCURSION DAY
wedding, which was soon to take place. The crew con- sisted of Capt. Butman, his son, Ernest, as engineer, Wal- lace Weed, and Dennis Weed. The steamer was valued at $12,000, with no insurance.
For several years now the service was erratic, to say the least. Capt. Butman purchased the motor-boat "Palm." She was a fine boat but unfitted for the duty imposed upon her. Accidents were continually happening to her, and the captain's health was gradually failing. The "Palm" was eventually laid up, Capt. Butman retired, and Capt. Burton Wallace with the motor-boat "Beatrice" were engaged to take their places.
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Now comes Matinicus' greatest tragedy. On Thursday, January 29, 1920, the "Beatrice" left Matinicus on her return trip. On account of ice conditions, no attempt was made to enter Rockland Harbor, but she put in at Owl's Head and the mail was carried to Rockland by a rural carrier. At 8.30 that evening the boat started on her trip to Matinicus. Capt. Wallace had eighteen sacks of mail aboard, and two passengers,-Edwin Ames and Leo Hup- per. It was bitterly cold, the thermometer below zero, with a strong wind which turned to a gale during the night.
STR.N. G. BUTMAN
& CRIEHAVEN LINE.
STEAMBOAT DAY
No trace of Captain or passengers was ever seen again. By reason of wreckage afterwards found, it is pretty certain that the boat foundered on Hurricane Ledges.
Capt. Burton Wallace was twenty-five years of age, the son of the late Thaddeus Wallace and Ellen A. (Tolman) Wallace. He was a native of Matinicus. All his life had been spent upon the water, and he was a competent sailor and expert navigator, as were his two companions. Some accident, entirely unforeseen and unavertible, must have been the cause of this tragedy. At the outbreak of the war, Capt. Wallace enlisted in the Naval Reserve and served with honor, in many waters. He left a wife, formerly Beatrice Rowley of Tenant's Harbor, and a young daughter.
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Edwin L. Ames was the son of Frank W. and Adella (Philbrook) Ames, and was in his twenty-first year.
Leo Hupper was eighteen years of age, the son of Mr. and Mrs. LaForest Hupper.
The relentless sea is ever alert to snatch its victims.
During the next few months several boats and captains tried their luck with varying degrees of success (or failure). Finally, some time in 1921, a corporation was formed, called the Rockland, Matinicus and Criehaven Transportation Co. The "Calista D. Morril" was purchased and put upon the route, under the command of Capt. Stuart Ames. The "Morril" is a capable, sea-worthy boat, sixty feet long, with a fifty-five horsepower engine. Boat and captain have
THE CALISTA D. MORRILL
continued ever since and are giving excellent service. They bid fair to equal or excel the long record of Capt. Butman and his boat.
Crossing the bay is now a matter of two and one-half hours or less, and on a pleasant day in summer is a truly delightful experience, but in the winter-time,-well, that's another story.
The first post office was established March 15, 1852, and Freeman Hall was the first postmaster. During the year 1854, the entire receipts of the office were $16.31. The postmaster received $12.13 as his salary, and $7.62 was paid for carrying the mail, leaving a deficit of $3.44. In
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1866, the final year of Mr. Hall's term of service, the popula- tion of the island was at its peak (276 souls in 1860). For his services this year the postmaster was compensated in the sum of sixteen dollars, while eleven dollars were paid for carrying the mails.
On February 15, 1867, Samuel S. Abbott was appointed to the office, and served in that capacity for five years.
The next incumbent was Henry Young, who received his appointment June 6, 1872, and was Uncle Sam's representative for twenty-three years. During his term the regular transportation and carrier service was inau- gurated.
Isaac E. Philbrook received his appointment October 24, 1895. His term was a short one. On October 6, 1897, W. Scott Young took over the post and has held it ever since.
At present the post office is situated in one corner of the "Store" and "Scotty" finds his wife a valuable assistant. A surprising quantity of mail passes through this office annually. At certain seasons of the year, thirty or more sacks are received at a single delivery. The former post- master who, it is said, was acccustomed to keep the mail under his bed, would have found it somewhat of a problem at the present time. In addition to a large amount of first- class mail, great quantities of newspapers, magazines, catalogues and parcel post packages of every description are received, the distribution of which makes no sinecure of the postmaster's job. A knowledge of the annual amount of money orders sent from here, would open the eyes of many persons who have a vague idea of the financial condition of fishermen and their families. The office is of the fourth class, and at present the compensation is approximately 500 dollars per annum.
In addition to the regular mail and transportation service, communication with the mainland is maintained by various other craft. Lobster smacks which come from various ports to buy the catch, bring great quantities of provisions and supplies of all kinds. Wood and coal schooners, and gasolene supply boats are frequent visitors. Yachts, government boats, strange fishermen, "rum chasers," and other craft too numerous to mention supply a means of frequent intercourse with the world. Paramount
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to all these is the fleet of fine boats owned by the men of the island. Speedy and seaworthy, each one perfectly appointed and commanded by a husky, hardy, and depend- able skipper, they at all times stand ready for duty or pleasure. To fetch or carry the doctor-to go on a picnic -anything-everything,-it is all one to them.
Twenty miles from the main, and of necessity, to some degree isolated; but when the airship shall have become a common means of conveyance, that distance shall seem as nothing.
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A GOOD CATCH
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INDUSTRIES
As a maritime community, a large proportion of the inhabitants of Matinicus have always procured their liveli- hood from the sea, as sailors, fishermen and lobstermen. The first settlers and earlier dwellers eked out their sub- sistence by the cultivation of the soil and the raising of cattle, hogs, sheep and poultry. All of the older houses are situated on small farms. These farms were formerly in a high state of cultivation, but of late years they have sadly deteriorated. In 1859, according to the assessors' schedule, the following farm stock was assessed at Matinicus Plantation (including Criehaven) : 14 oxen; 63 cows, owned by twenty-eight families; 30 head of young stock; and 485 sheep, owned by twenty-two families.
In the old times the men and boys fished and farmed; the women and girls spun, wove and made all the clothes, as well as the nets used in the fisheries; they also helped in the hay-fields and in the gardens, besides doing the cook- ing, washing, and other necessary household tasks. In those days of few resources and large families, it was a struggle for existence and there were few idlers. Of course, at that time, the standard of living was far different from that of today. Silk stockings and "undies," and chocolates at a dollar per pound were not then considered among the necessities of life; in fact, for many months of the year, stockings of any kind were indeed a luxury, for the younger ones, at least. But what of that? The people were just as happy, and probably more so, than the pampered ones of today. Gradually, by dint of great industry and strict economy, the people became more and more prosperous. While none of them ever attained excessive riches, most of them lived in comfort. Concerning the stockings of then and now: Many a present-day matron whose limbs have become accustomed to the filmiest of silken hose can well remember the "feel" of those old- fashioned, home-knit, coarse woolen stockings of generous length. Ugh !!
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In the early days, and for many years, the people depended upon the cod, mackerel and herring fisheries, but these have gradually given place to the lobstering industry. In the palmy days of fishing, between twenty and thirty vessels would leave the island for the summer's fishing on the "Banks" and in the Bay of Fundy. In 1859, there were twenty-two vessel owners, with a total tonnage of 365 tons. As fast as the cod were caught, they were cleaned, salted and stored away. In the fall they were brought to the island and dried, and then taken to Portland or Boston, where they were sold. At this time the vessels were fitted out for the next trip in the spring, and a winter stock of provisions for the families at home also purchased. If all stories are true, these stocks generally included a goodly supply of the "forbidden juice," even after the voters had cast their ballots overwhelmingly in favor of the famous "Maine prohibition law." It seems that all of us, wherever situated, have an idea that laws are made for the regulation of the conduct of "the other feller," and that they do not apply to us.
Mackerel and herring were then plentiful and were salted in barrels and marketed at the same time. Within the memory of many of the inhabitants, there have been times when as many as a hundred sail of mackerel catchers could be counted within a short distance of the island. Alas! Those days are gone-shall we say-forever? It has been a matter of thirty-five years since mackerel were caught here in any quantity. At that time buyers were plenty on the fishing grounds, and each day's catch would be sold in a fresh state, for cash. The buyers would carry them to markets on the mainland.
Another fish formerly found here in great abundance was the menhaden, or "pogie" as it was called. Vast schools of these fish frequented the surrounding waters at certain seasons of the year, and were taken by seining in great quantities by the "pogie steamers," carried to the factories and converted into valuable oil and fertilizer. They were also taken by the local fishermen, and used for fish and lobster bait. It has been forty or fifty years since these fish were plentiful, and today they are practically
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extinct in these waters. The cupidity and greed of man are rapidly depleting our natural resources.
In the spring and early summer, pollock are accustomed to school nearby and several crews from the island have made the seining of these fish a profitable side issue. Many other seiners from nearby ports also frequent the grounds during the schooling period. Of late years the pollock have been less plentiful.
Herring have always been the main reliance of the fisher- men. They are a cheap, palatable, and nutritious article
SEINE AND SEINERS
of food and many of them are disposed of for that purpose, but by far the greater part of the catch is and always has been utilized as bait for the catching of other fish and of lobsters. They are used in a fresh state on handlines and trawls for the capture of cod, haddock, hake and halibut, and slightly salted in hogsheads and barrels, they are the lobstermen's main dependence wherewith to bait their traps. In the latter state, after they have become "ripe" they acquire a penetrating odor which is peculiarly their own, but which can hardly be classed as perfumery. Herring are taken in gill nets and seines and by dipping. Some years they are quite plentiful and the fishermen find no difficulty in replenishing their stores for another year.
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At other times there is a great scarcity and it is necessary to obtain large quantities from other sources.
At one time the herring could be depended upon to arrive in great numbers, regularly each season, and for a number of years they were taken in weirs. On account of the rocky shores, this method was difficult and costly. In the late 1880's a corporation called the Matinicus Fish Co. was formed. It constructed several weirs at different points, and in spite of the difficulties encountered, conducted a suc- cessful business for some years. Immense quantities of herring were taken which met with a ready sale, mostly to
THE FISH HARVEST
large fishing vessels bound to the "Banks." Some were salted and some were smoked and disposed of in that state. However, after a few successful seasons, fortune changed ; herring became less plentiful ; storms played havoc with the gear, and the company finally passed out of existence.
In the old days, before lobstering had supplanted the other fisheries, the cod were salted and brought to the island to be dried. For many years Rufus Young carried on an extensive business in this line, curing the fish for a one- sixteenth share.
In April, 1882, W. B. Kittredge Co. of Vinalhaven, inaugurated the business of buying fish in a fresh state, and
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cleaning, curing and marketing the same. Leasing the buildings and wharf owned by Henry Young, for twelve seasons this firm operated here under the superintendence of J. B. Sanborn of Vinalhaven, who with his family, formed a part of the community during the fishing season, return- ing to Vinalhaven for the winters. After the retirement of the above firm from the field, operations were carried on for a few years by Henry Young & Co., since when the plant has been leased by the firm of Gorton, Pew & Co. of Gloucester, Mass., with the exception of a short interval when no business was done. Among others who have acted as the representatives of this firm during their long term of business here have been Chaney Hall, Arthur Kent, John . Conery, and for the past five seasons Andrew R. Holmes of Stockton.
The patrons of this plant are mostly fishermen who are not regular residents, but who come for the summer's fish- ing, living aboard their boats or in so-called camps along the shore. However, as opportunity offers, the resident lobstermen do more or less fishing as a side line and many an extra dollar is thus added to their income. Cod, had- dock, pollock and hake are the principal fish handled, and under the superintendence of Mr. Holmes, a superior product is here turned out. President Coolidge and Governor Baxter can attest to this fact, as they have been the recipients of generous samples, the partaking of which was productive of enthusiastic letters of praise, and a request for more. During the season of 1925, Mr. Holmes bought and paid cash for 1,250,000 pounds of fresh fish.
As before stated, lobstering gradually took the place of the other fisheries. At first a few of the men took up this line in the winter, after the fishing season was over. They went in dories along the shores of the island. The waters literally swarmed with lobsters and at first the market was limited. With the advent of canning factories the number of lobstermen increased. Compare the prices of today with those paid by the factories to the fishermen at that time- three cents each, regardless of size (and some of them were whoppers) and one cent per pound for cullings. Notwith- standing the meager prices, the crustaceans were so plenti- ful that the taking of them proved a profitable industry.
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More and more of the fishermen forsook the line, the net, and the trawl for the lobster trap, until practically all the men were devoting their entire time to the business. The canning factories absorbed great quantities. In fact, these same factories were responsible for the near extermination of the lobster. Fortunately, however, this fact was recog- nized in season, and these establishments were abolished.
At first, while the lobsters were so plentiful along the shores, the men went in dories or small boats, using oars as the propelling force. As the number of lobstermen in- creased and lobsters grew less plentiful, dories gave way
THE LOBSTERMAN
to sloops. These were of larger dimensions and enabled the men to go farther afield. Upon the introduction of the ma- rine motor, the sloops were soon equipped with these ma- chines, lengthening their cruising distance still further. Since then speedy power boats, depending upon the engine alone for its means of propulsion, have superseded many of the sloops.
Lobstering is the industry which keeps the community moving, and the men find that it is profitable to devote their entire time to the business, and to purchase all necessities. Each day's catch, upon arrival in the harbor, is disposed of for cash to the waiting smacks, or to the resident buyer.
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Business is done on a strictly cash basis. At present it is, and for many years past, it has been a profitable occupation, but the number of lobsters is gradually decreasing and all supplies have doubled in price. Ten or twenty years from now may tell a different story. When it is said that lobster- ing is a profitable calling, it is not meant that it is also an easy one. Far from it. Of course, as in all other occupa- tions, some of the fishermen are more successful than others, according to their diligence and adaptability. Subject to many hardships, and exposed to all kinds of weather, and to all the dangers of the sea, the lobsterman earns every penny that he receives.
In the year 1903, complying with the petition of the lobstermen, the legislature of the state passed a law making it illegal to take lobsters during the months of August and September in Matinicus and Criehaven waters. After giving this "closed time" a thorough trial for a number of years, it was found unsatisfactory, and upon petition of inhabitants was repealed in 1915.
As the lobstering increased and the fishing decreased, the amount of farming also fell off, until today a large proportion of the formerly well tilled land has grievously deteriorated, and much of it is rapidly returning to its original natural state. At present Stanley Palmeter is the only one who makes a business of agriculture. He is a successful scientific farmer, and devotes his entire time to the business. W. Scott Young, with the assistance of his capable wife, does considerable dairying. Ernest Young and two or three others keep a few cows. A number of families cultivate a small garden, and raise a few hens and a hog or two. Many fine flocks of sheep were formerly kept here. Ernest Young and Wilmer Ames are the owners of the last remaining flocks on the island, although there are a few pastured on some of the smaller islands. Formerly, a yoke of oxen was considered a necessity on nearly every farm; today these patient beasts of burden are represented by one lone yoke of steers owned by Ernest Young. Horses are now used for the necessary farm work and teaming. Stanley Palmeter is the possessor of one pair, W. Scott Young of another, while Arthur Gray, Weston Ames and Dalton Raynes each have a single hitch.
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A necessary adjunct to any community is a store. It is not definitely known who operated the first one here. The first of which there is any record is that of Freeman Hall. Not far from the year 1830, he started a general trading business; was interested in several fishing vessels, and also bought more or less fish. For several years Alexander Philbrook was a partner in the enterprise but finally dropped out. Under their supervision the wharf now known as the Philbrook Wharf was built.
At about the same time James Condon opened another store on Wheaton's Island. Old account books of these firms are in existence, and from a perusal of their columns one derives the impression that a generous share of their business consisted of the sale of gin and rum, which at that time could be obtained for the modest prices of 3 cents per glass, 6 cents per pint and 40 cents per gallon. In this connection, the following story is related: It seems that James Condon's store stood on short posts, leaving a shallow open space beneath. One night, having located the exact position of the rum barrel, several members of the com- munity, armed with a pail and an auger and somewhat of a thirst, appeared upon the scene. Crawling underneath, a hole was bored through the flooring and the bottom of the barrel. The pail was soon filled, but, alas !- no provision had been made for plugging the hole, and sad to relate, the remaining contents of the barrel went to waste.
Rum seems to have played a prominent part in the life of the community in those days, although in this respect the place was probably not worse than others at that time. About 1845 or '6, Job Tolman, Hanse Philbrook (then in his teens) and one other, made a momentous trip to the West Indies and back, in a little schooner of about fifteen tons burden, called the "Rainbow." These dare-devil mar- iners brought home a cargo of rum which was stored in the cellar and freely dispensed to all applicants.
In 1851, in the wood-house connected with the old home- stead, the present firm of Henry Young & Co. was modestly inaugurated. Successful traders are born, not made. An innate, invisible something is necessary for their develop- ment. Henry Young possessed this quality to a marked degree, and the business throve from the first, and developed
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into the well-known concern by which he arrived at affluence. Ten years in the little wood-house, and more commodious quarters were needed. In 1861, a building was erected near the house for the accommodation of the increasing trade. This building served as headquarters until 1884, and has since been converted into a dwelling house. In the mean- time the "Squire" had been making many improvements at the shore. In 1875, a large stone wharf was built and a road constructed thereto. This has since been enlarged and is now used as the steamboat wharf and public landing place, as well as by the fish company. In 1876, the "Cen-
THE WHARF WHEN FIRST BUILT
tennial" was erected ; a large, two-storied, substantial build- ing, the upper story of which is used as a store-house for a great variety of goods. The lower story is used by the fish company. In 1884, the "store" and post office was removed to the shore for convenience' sake, to the building where they are at present situated. This structure had been built originally as a fish house, and afterwards used as a store-house for surplus stock while the store was up at the house. It was subsequently enlarged and renovated. At present it is a commodious building of three stories, and together with the store-house at the "Centennial," houses
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