USA > Maine > Knox County > Matinicus Isle > Matinicus Isle, its story and its people > Part 7
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Chopping-bees, with supper for the choppers, and a "time" in the evening, marked the approach of cold weather each fall.
Social gatherings or "parties" were of frequent occur- rence. On these occasions refreshments were served, and the now antiquated "kissing games" held full sway.
For many years it was customary to celebrate Inde- pendence Day by a community picnic, at which was rendered a patriotic program, and those present filled them- selves to repletion with the delicious edibles which the housewives of the island knew so well how to prepare; and right here it would be well to state that as housekeepers and cooks, Matinicus matrons are second to those of no other community.
One form amusement was and is, the ever popular dance. With the "fiddler" seated in one corner of the
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kitchen or of the wood-shed, the enthusiastic steppers would proceed to "hoe 'er down,"-if not always with grace and dignity, at least with an intense enjoyment in the proceedings.
Since the erection of the K. of P. Hall, which contains an excellent dancing floor, this building has been used for the purpose, and as a general thing, weekly dances are held therein, sometimes with an orchestra for music, but usually to the seductive strains of the victrola. The "Lady of the Lake," the "Boston Fancy," the "Virginia Reel," the quadrille, waltz and other old-time dances are still the popular ones here. An annual occurrence for some years has been the "Masquerade Ball," with its attendant fun and
THE MATINICUS BAND
hilarity. Many of the costumes have been of great beauty ; others of much originality, requiring considerable skill and ingenuity in their construction.
In 1909, the Matinicus Band was organized. It con- sisted of the following members: Albert M. Ripley, Milton Philbrook, Harold Ames, Harry Young, Edwin Ripley, Fred Howard, Adelbert Philbrook, Arthur Philbrook, Ralph Phil- brook, Richard Young, LaForest Young, Oscar Ames, Burton Wallace, Weston Ames, Elmer Ames, George Belcher. Albert Ripley was the leader, and the late "Ross" Ingraham was engaged as instructor. For a time con- siderable enthusiasm was shown by the members, but grad- ually, many of them "backslid." However, having been
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reduced to eight pieces, the membership attained a degree of proficiency, and for some time so continued. As an organization the band has since disintegrated, but at present there are about five pieces which upon occasion can, and do, give a commendable performance.
Probably the oldest society is the local lodge of the "Bean Barrel and Soap Box Club." This nation-wide organization -without officers, and without rules-informally came into being with the advent of the first country store. In times past the number of lodges has reached a total of many thousands, but the number of the old-time establishments have gradually diminished, and with them the gatherings about the stove. However, Matinicus still maintains a flourishing lodge, and here are told the ancient yarns and stories; here the news and the gossip (especially the gos- sip) of the day are disseminated ; and here are discussed and decided all the momentous questions of town, state and nation.
The first regularly organized society was a lodge of the "Washingtonian Temperance Society." This organization was formed for the purpose of fighting the prevailing evil of intemperance which was then rampant throughout the country. The local lodge was formed on October 25, 1842, and by one of the women of the period was said to have been the "salvation of Matinicus." The secretary's book, con- taining the records for five years, is still in existence. From this record it is learned that the first president was Rufus Young; vice-president, Freeman Hall; secretary, John Burgess. There were thirty-three charter members. The membership increased until it reached a peak of one hundred and thirty-nine. The records in this book cease in January, 1848, and it is not known how much longer the society continued in existence-probably not a great while.
Of course, during the life of this association there were certain scoffers thereat. Judging from the following stanzas, one of them seems to have been addicted to rhyme:
"Cold water is our constant drink. We used to have good wine, 'Til Adams on Matinicus came, And made the d- fools sign.
"The people on Matinicus Thought they couldn't sign at all,
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Until they got Squire Young's consent; And likewise, Freeman Hall."
On Washington's Birthday, 1843, the society held an elaborate celebration in honor of the day. The program for this celebration is still preserved, as is also the banner which was made and used upon the occasion. This banner is about two feet by four feet, and is made of cotton cloth, orna- mented with colored pictures cut from books and magazines, which are pasted thereon. In the center of one side is the illustrated motto: "Temperance and Morality are Twin Sisters." It is a unique and interesting relic.
Tenahcook Lodge, No. 91, I. O. of G. T., was organized on Feb. 7, 1870. This flourished for a number of years, but was disbanded in 1875.
In the year 1900, the Good Templars established another lodge. This was Island Hope Lodge, No. 6, and was insti- tuted December 4, with twenty-one charter members, and M. A. Ripley as C. T. The life of this society was three years. It then followed the steps of its predecessor.
Reminiscent of days gone by-following is an alleged order for supplies to be used on a fishing trip, by a party of two: "Please send by bearer the following articles, which if you prefer, you can charge to Mr. A. or Mr. B .- either is the safest : Four pounds of salt, and a small cask of whiskey; one pound of black pepper, and a dozen bottles of whiskey ; four pounds of lard, and a large jug of whiskey ; four hams, and six quart bottles of whiskey; three stout fishing lines and a quarter of a hundred weight of biscuit; the same weight of Cheshire cheese and two large pocket flasks of whiskey; one paper of large Limerick hooks, and a gallon of whiskey in any old vessel you don't use ; also one pound of white sugar, and a small jug of whiskey.
P. S. As we shall be gone several days, and as we may get wet, fishing, my doctor who has just stepped in, sug- gested that we had better take a little whiskey. Send it, and enter it on your books with other items above."
The "Masons" have always been represented on Matin- icus by several members. On the roster of Aurora Lodge, No. 50, of Rockland, for the year 1868, the following Matinicus names are noted: Otis Abbott, John Burgess,
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Isaac Grant, William Grant, William Norton, Jonathan Norton, Frederic A. Norton, Iddo K. Tolman, Isaac Tol- man, Rufus Y. Young. At the present time the membership includes the following: W. Scott Young, Wilmer L. Ames, Fred Y. Ames, Carl Young, Milton Philbrook, Alexander Perry, George Belcher, Andrew Holmes, Frank O. Hilt of the "Rock."
There are also several residents who are members of the Rockland Lodge of I. O. O. F.
The only fraternal society to be represented by a strictly local lodge owning its home, was the Knights of Pythias. Island Home Lodge, No. 140, was organized on July 8, 1909. Shortly after this was financed the construction of their hall, which was built in January-February, 1910, and was dedicated in the spring of the same year. This building is 22 feet by 42 feet in dimensions, and is of two stories. The upper story contains the lodge room and two ante-rooms, and in the lower story there is a large hall with an excellent dancing floor, and a completely equipped kitchen. It was built at a cost of about $2,000, and Wm. Schwartz, of Cam- den, was the contractor. This lodge began with a charter membership of twenty-two, and the first Chancellor Com- mander was Freeman S. Young. It flourished for a number of years, but death and removal have diminished its member- ship. It still retains its charter, but is not in an active condition.
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CRIEHAVEN
The island of Criehaven, consisting of approximately three hundred acres of land of the same formation as that of Matinicus, is situated about two miles to the south. Its Indian name (Racketash) was corrupted to "Ragged Ass," and it is referred to by this name in several historical docu- ments and deeds. This appellation eventually gave place
ROBERT F. CRIE
to "Ragged Island," and many of the older people still refer to it as such.
To a great extent, the history of Matinicus is the history of Criehaven. For many years the smaller island was simply an adjunct of the larger one. At one time it was owned by Henry Brookman, a native of Sweden, and was used for the pasturage of sheep. It has not been ascer- tained from whom Brookman acquired it, nor is it evident that he himself ever resided at either of the islands. Bucks- port is said to have been his home town.
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The name of the first resident on Criehaven is not known for a certainty. In 1830, David Hall and Robert Marshall were living there with their families, but it is probable that before this others had made of it a temporary abode. In 1850 the inhabitants were: Robert F. Crie and wife, Joseph Leighton and family, David Hall and wife, Robert Wilson and wife.
The outstanding figure in the history of the place is that of Robert F. Crie, from Matinicus. In the winter of 1848, he and Harriette, his newly wedded wife, started house- keeping in a log camp. During the winter he cut and hewed the timber for a house, and in the spring of 1849, he erected the Crie homestead, which with its several addi- tions is still standing. In 1879, he had acquired by pur- chase, the whole of the island. Besides raising sheep, and farming, and lumbering, he carried on a fish business, and kept a general store. He died June 25, 1901, and is buried near the home in which he spent the fifty-three years of a happy, useful married life.
When the plantation of Matinicus was inaugurated in 1840, Ragged Island was included in the incorporation. The seat of government was on the larger island and all municipal business was transacted thereon. For many years the two communities moved along in unison. The dreams, the hopes, the desires, the ambitions of one, were identical with those of the other. However, as the population in- creased and the families grew larger, the question of the education of the children became the cause of much dissen- sion. Finally, as it was found impossible to make satis- factory arrangements for the instruction of the children at Ragged Island, that colony seceded, as it were, and in 1896 was incorporated as a separate plantation, under the name of Criehaven. And a Criehaven indeed it had always proved. The rocky shores and adjacent ledges and reefs have witnessed many wrecks. Many a homeless one, and many a shipwrecked mariner, half frozen and nearly perished, have here found a haven, and enjoyed the ever- ready hospitality of Robert Crie and his wife, and have been tenderly cared for in the old homestead. A Criehaven, indeed.
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Soon after the institution of the new government, the steamer Butman began making regular trips to Criehaven, and a post office was established. The first postmaster was Horatio D. Crie, son of Robert. He was succeeded by his brother, Eben, who held the post for many years. Eben in turn, gave place to H. J. McClure, the present incumbent. After nearly thirty years of independence, the inhabitants became dissatisfied with its form of government, and in 1925, upon petition to the legislature, it was disorganized as a plantation and is now the protege of the State.
A school-house has been built, sufficiently large for its purpose, which is also used for religious purposes.
Mr. Fred S. Rhodes is an extensive property owner here and has expended many thousands of dollars in the improve- ment and exploitation of the place. He has erected several fine cottages, and under his direction "Hillside Farm" has been modernized and beautified.
During the winter the population of the island is not large, but it is greatly augmented in the summer by seasonal fishermen and by many visitors who have discovered the beauties and attractions of the place. The community spirit is deeply implanted upon this small bit of earth. A commo- dious building has been erected by the people in common, and furnished with a piano and other accommodations. It is used as a clubhouse, and for dancing, and for social gatherings of every kind.
In 1896, Robert Crie and his wife, together with all five of their children, with their wives, husbands and children, were living at Criehaven. Since that time, although they still own the greater part of the land, the Cries and their de- scendants have become practically extinct as bona-fide resi- dents. Robert and his wife have died; their son Eben is deceased; Frank L. has removed to the West where he has become a successful dentist; Horatio D. resides in Rockland and is Commissioner of Sea and Shore Fisheries; and John Crie, who is a widower, together with the family of Fred S. Rhodes divide their time between their residence in Rock- land and the scenes of their youth. Unlike Matinicus, whose population consists chiefly of descendants of the old stock, Criehaven is now peopled by families of comparatively re-
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cent arrival, who are there mainly for the fishing and lob- stering, owning their houses, but with no extensive land holdings.
The harbor is situated on the northerly end of the island, and is adequately protected on the south, the east and the north. However, the gales from the north-west and the south-west play havoc with the boats, and on Feb. 2, 1908, a great storm occurred which destroyed the steamboat wharf and did much other damage. The following season a sub- stantial wharf was built. Attempts have been made to in- duce the government to construct a breakwater, but without success.
EBEN CRIE'S STORE-CRIEHAVEN
Not many years after the reconstruction of the wharf, all the buildings thereon, which were originally erected by Robert F. Crie, for use in his business, were destroyed by fire, and have never been rebuilt.
In all the United States it is doubtful if there can be found a community which, in proportion to its size, fur- nished as large a number of men for service in the Great War, as did this small maritime hamlet. Out of a total of less than fifty souls, seven of the youth and manhood saw service in the army and navy, several of them across the ocean. Following are the names of those who served their country on land and sea in its time of need: In the army were Ralph Wilson and Fred Wilson; in the navy were
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Leslie A. Wilson, H. J. McClure, Ira Tupper, Roy Simpson, and Harry McClure; three brothers from one household, and a father and son from another.
At present H. J. McClure buys fish and lobsters, keeps a general store, and is postmaster. Leslie Wilson runs the store formerly occupied by Eben Crie for so many years.
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THE LIGHTS
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MATINICUS ROCK
About five miles south of Matinicus, and three from Criehaven, a massive ledge of about thirty-two acres projects its bulk above the surrounding waters. The situa- tion is so exposed and the deposits of soil so thin that not a single tree, or even a shrub of any kind has ever found foothold there. However, there are various depressions filled with soil which has become so enriched by the drop- pings from the birds that several varieties of grasses and sedges and numerous plants, peculiar to such localities, grow luxuriantly therein. The "Rock" is a famous breed- ing place for terns and other sea birds. Mosquitoes have discovered that the stagnant pools of rainwater provide ideal conditions for the propagation of their kind, and utilize them to the utmost.
This farthest outpost of the Maine coast was deeded to the United States jointly by the State of Maine, and the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, November 2, 1826. An Act of Congress dated May 18, 1826, provided the money for the erection of a light-house station which had long been needed. More than one vessel had already come to grief upon the "Rock" itself, and many others had met disaster within a radius of a few miles.
The first lights were established in 1827, and consisted of two wooden towers, one at either end of a cobblestone dwelling-house. In 1846, Congress appropriated $11,000 for rebuilding the station, and a new dwelling of granite was constructed, with granite towers situated similarly to the old wooden ones. In 1857, the towers were again rebuilt. This time they were placed 180 feet apart to make them more effective as range lights, and one was built to an elevation of 95 feet above the sea ; the other, five feet lower.
As originally established, each tower showed a fixed white light, but on July 1, 1883, the light in the north tower was extinguished, and that in the south tower changed to fixed red. This change met with much disapproval, and on July 1, 1888, the two fixed white lights were restored. These lights, classed as of the third order, were visible at a distance
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of fifteen miles. On August 15, 1923, one light was per- manently discontinued, and on August 26, the other was replaced by a 43,000 candle power flashing white light. This is seen from the south tower, ninety feet above high water, and shows a flash alternating with a group of two flashes, every fifteen seconds. The lenses float in mercury and operate by a clock revolving two turns per minute.
The first fog signal at this station was a bell, which was afterwards changed to a ten-inch steam whistle. This change took place some time between the years 1867 and 1872. The present fog signal plant was installed December 1, 1922. A twelve-inch air whistle now sends forth its warning-a five-second blast, every thirty seconds. The
THE FOG BELL
power is generated by two thirty horse-power Laidlaw in- ternal combustion engines. Should the whistle become inoperative for any reason, there is a bell tower about sixty yards from the fog signal containing a large bell, operated by hand.
Besides the structures already enumerated there are two wooden dwelling houses (one single, one double), engine house, boat shop, oil house, etc., etc., all of which combined, make an impressive showing.
Prior to 1861 only one keeper was considered as neces- sary for the maintenance of the station. Any help that he might require was rendered by members of his family. In 1861 Capt. John Grant was appointed principal keeper
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and his sons as assistants. In 1869, upon the installation of the steam fog signal, the number of keepers was increased to four, and with the exception of the few years between 1883 and 1888 this has been the force maintained. Upon the discontinuance of one of the lights in 1923, the number was reduced to three.
The name of the first keeper is not known for a certainty, but in all probability it was John A. Shaw, as the census of 1830 states that he and his family were resident there at that time. He was succeeded by Samuel S. Abbott, who was there in 1840. William Young was the next keeper and he served until 1853. Since then the principal keepers have been :
Samuel Burgess, 1853-1861.
John H. Grant, 1861-1890, having had a record of 29 years of con- tinuous service at this station.
William G. Grant, 1890-1900 (son of John H. Grant).
James E. Hall, 1900-1908.
Merton E. Tolman, 1908-1911.
Charles G. Dyer, 1911-1916.
Arthur B. Mitchell, 1916-1919.
Frank O. Hilt, 1919, present keeper.
Besides the above, the following have served as assistant. keepers: Isaac Grant, John Grant, Jr., Jarvis Grant, Abby Grant, N. Perry, L. Abbott, William Stanley, T. A. Wallace, L. Norwood, A. A. Norton, George A. Lewis, Charles Burgess, Elmer Holbrook, Harold Hutchins, G. C. Wallace, J. H. Upton, A. M. Mitchell, G. W. C. Studley, Geo. D. Lee, A. J. Beal, E. E. Conary, V. H. Fernald, A. B. Beal, and others.
People living in cities and in comparatively sheltered spots on the mainland have no conception of what a real storm is like. Given adequate powers of expression, dwellers at this station could enlighten them. Many a. raging tempest has tried the courage and endurance of the little band of faithful guardians to the utmost. Never have they been found wanting !
Perhaps the severest storm of which there is any record was that of January 19, 1856. Samuel Burgess was keeper of the station at that time, but was absent when the storm came on. His son was also gone; his wife was an invalid. and there were four small children in the family. Upon
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his daughter Abby, then seventeen years of age, devolved the care of this family and the responsibility of the lights, during this trying time. Not once did she hesitate! The sea made a complete breach over the rock, washing away every movable thing, including the original stone dwelling. As the waters rose and each succeeding sea increased in violence, threatening the safety of the granite dwelling, the occupants were forced to take refuge in the towers. Even after the storm had abated, the sea continued in such a state that for four weeks no landing could be effected on the "Rock." In a letter to a friend Abby wrote: "During all this time we were without the assistance of any male members of our family. Though at times greatly exhausted with my labors, not once did the lights fail."
At another time (in the spring of 1857), Mr. Burgess left the rock to obtain his salary and secure provisions and fuel. The state of the weather prevented his return and his family ran short of food. Daring to wait no longer, the son started for help in a little skiff equipped with a small sail, and was seen no more by his family for a period of twenty-one days, during which time the mother and girls subsisted upon a cup of corn meal gruel and one egg each per day. To the horrors of isolation and hunger were added the awful suspense as to the fate of father and son. As before, Abby was found equal to the emergency.
It appears that after her father had left this station Abby Burgess married Isaac Grant, the son of his successor, and lived on this rock for nineteen years after the storm (22 years in all), and was the mother of four children there. Those children must have been proud of such a mother.
The character of the men to whom the government has entrusted this beacon during the past century is well illustrated by the following: William Grant, keeper from 1890 to 1900, started for the five mile row to Matinicus as a south-easter was brewing. On his way, his dory capsized, but nothing daunted, he righted her, bailed her out, swam to get his oars, and all undisturbed, finished his trip in safety.
The keepers with their families, have generally formed a contented, industrious community. In addition to the
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various duties involved in the maintenance of the station, the men in their "off watch" generally do considerable fishing and lobstering. The community has its school, its Sunday School, its religious meetings, its social gatherings, etc., and latterly the talking machine and the radio have brought the little band into closer touch with the world's activities. During the War the government laid a cable from White Head to the "Rock" and a telephone was installed. For some time this was out of commission but has lately been repaired.
THE PRESENT KEEPERS, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, AUSTIN BEAL, A. J. BEAL, F. O. HILT
The personnel of the station as at present constituted is as follows :
Keeper, Frank O. Hilt, a 300-pound genial giant from St. George. He was assigned to this station as 3d assistant on March 4, 1913, and has been principal keeper since 1919.
First Assistant-keeper, Arthur J. Beal of Jonesport, who arrived September 1, 1919.
Second Assistant-keeper, Austin B. Beal of Jonesport, who arrived October 3, 1923.
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Eleven souls, all told, constitute the little community. The keepers maintain a school for the instruction of the children. At present there are two pupils, Willard R. Hilt and Eleanor M. Beal. Their teacher is Miss Mary Peabody.
Entrusted with the safety of those who "go down to the sea in ships, and do their business in great waters," a little group of faithful workers keep eternal vigilance, night in and night out-year in and year out.
"The lights must not go out."
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WRECKS
Situated as they are in the lane of commerce, it was inevitable that the rugged shores of the Matinicus islands should have witnessed many wrecks, accompanied by much loss of life and destruction of property. The salvaging of these wrecks and their cargoes has been of considerable benefit to the inhabitants, in days gone by, and while it can not be said that they really hoped for these disasters, it is true that they were very quick to take advantage of any that did happen. The following list of forty-four wrecks was communicated to the writer by Mr. John T. Young., He had personal observation of many of them, and the accounts of the earlier ones were told to him by his forbears. While the dates of some of them are merely approximate, the other particulars may be taken as practically correct.
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