USA > Pennsylvania > A geography of Pennsylvania : containing an account of the history, geographical features, soil, climate, geology, botany, zoology, population, education, government, finances, productions, trade, railroads, canals &c. of the state : with a separate description of each county, and questions for the convenience of teachers : to which is appended, a travellers' guide, or table of distances on the principal rail road, canal and stage routes in the state > Part 24
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Timber of the usual kinds found in this part of the State is abun- dant, and supplies the saw mills with material for lumber for home consumption, besides affording charcoal for the iron works and abundance of fuel for domestic use.
19
BERKS COUNTY.
According to the assessment for 1842, the value of real and personal property subject to county taxation amounted to $20,679,857 : the county tax levied upon which was $41,540, and the State tax assessed in the autumn of 1841, $27,769.
The Schuylkill canal and the rail road from Philadelphia to Pottsville both pass through this county from south to north, and afford an easy and convenient means of communication with the city, as well as unusual facilities for the transportation of produce to market and of merchandise in return. The Union canal leaves the Schuylkill near Reading and passes up the Tulpehocken into Lebanon county, furnishing to the western part of Berks the convenience of canal navigation, both eastward to the Schuylkill and westward to the Susquehanna. These canals not only afford the means of transportation and trade to the people of the county, but also create a considerable home market to the farmers for the sale of different kinds of provisions for the boatmen and their horses.
There are several good turnpike roads in this county. That from Philadelphia to Pottsville passes through Reading and Ham- burg; and that from Reading to Harrisburg extends westward by Womelsdorf and Stouchburg towards Lebanon. The common roads are kept generally in good condition for travelling; bridges are erected over the principal streams, eight or ten crossing the Schuylkill at different places within the county. Two of these are at Reading, one of which is about 600 feet in length.
The general state of education among the people of this county is not flourishing. The early settlers were chiefly of the labour- ing classes from Germany, who in their own country had enjoyed very limited means for the acquisition of knowledge, their youth having been passed in the hardship and privation of incessant labour. Being a people generally averse to innovation, and strongly prejudiced in favour of old usages and habits, they have since, with some very creditable exceptions, practically maintained the principle that as the father has lived and made money without education, so may the son. Honest, industrious, and rigidly economical in his habits, the Pennsylvania German regards a liberal education as being rather the accomplishment of a rogue than the necessary qualification of a useful citizen; and would therefore save his money for what he considers a more useful purpose than the education of his children. It is, however, gratifying to observe that of latter years such principles are gradually, but perceptibly, yielding to more liberal views and a more just appreciation of the benefits and advantages of education.
To such causes and opinions we may attribute the inferior con- dition of the common schools in this county. Of its 35 school dis- tricts only eight accepted the provisions of the law in 1835, and since that time two of them have discontinued. In many instances there has been much opposition to collecting the school taxes, building school houses, and making any improvements involving cost. The want of good teachers has been felt here, as in many other parts of the State ; but it is believed that there is a general improvement in the schools as well as in the disposition of the
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
public mind on this subject. The number of schools in operation under the system is 44, which are kept open on an average about 64 months in the year.
There are three academies in the county : one at Reading, one at Womelsdorf, and one at Kutztown. That at Reading was in- corporated in 1778, but owing to injudicious management and want of patronage, it was suspended in 1836. It was revived, however, in 1840, and has since sustained a deservedly high cha- racter. The course of instruction is extensive, embracing the an- cient and modern languages, mathematics and the other branches usually taught in academies and high schools. The number of its pupils is 64. The Reading Female Seminary was incorporated in 1838, and by the wise and liberal policy of the trustees, suitable provision has been made for procuring the services of competent instructors in the English and French languages and literature, botany, chemistry, natural philosophy and other useful as well as ornamental branches of female education. The institution is accordingly in a prosperous state, and has already acquired a reputation which brings to it pupils from abroad. Its present number is 62.
The common language of the county is the impure German usually spoken in Pennsylvania, and which has become so much corrupted and mixed with common English words, that it would scarcely be understood by a well educated German from the father- land. In many parts of the county, where the inhabitants seldom leave their own neighbourhood, English is neither spoken nor un- derstood ; but this language is rapidly gaining ground among those of the people who have business communications with others than their immediate neighbors. It will probably not be long before English and German will be equally used, except in some secluded portions of the county.
Among the natural curiosities may be mentioned Dragon's cave, in Richmond township, which is thus described by a gen- tleman resident in the county. "The entrance to this cave is on the brow of a hill, in the edge of a cultivated field. Passing into it the adventurer descends about fifty yards by a rough and narrow passage, and then turns to the left at an acute angle with the pas- sage hitherto pursued. After proceeding about thirty yards farther he enters the great chamber, about fifty feet long, twenty wide, and fifteen to twenty feet high, in a rock of limestone. Near the end of this chamber, opposite to the entrance, is the "altar," a large mass of stalagmite, which rings under the hammer, and is translucent. Formations of stalactite are found in other parts of the cave, though none so large as the mass just mentioned."
Sinking spring, near the Harrisburg turnpike, about 5 miles west from Reading, is a considerable curiosity to those who are not familiar with the circumstances frequently attending large springs in a limestone region. The water here rises and sinks again in the same basin, which is very deep ; thence finding its way again under ground through fissures and hidden caverns in the limestone rock, probably once more to seek the light of day in some other place.
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BRADFORD COUNTY.
Name the counties adjacent to Berks. Describe the face of the country and mention the mountains in this county. What river flows through it, and in what direction ? Name the other principal streams, their situation and course. What kind of rock is in the southern part? In the South mountain ? Where are the great limestone and slate formations ? Men- tion the places where iron ore occurs. What other mineral productions are found ? What is said of the various kinds of soil ? What is the county town and how situated ? Describe the principal public buildings. For what branch of manufacture was Reading formerly celebrated ? What manu- facturing establishments are now in operation ? How is the town supplied with water ? Where is Womelsdorf ? Kutztown ? Hamburg ? Mor- gantown ? What other towns are mentioned ? What are the most import- ant productions ? The number and kind of iron works ? What is said of the limestone and timber ? Name the canals and rail roads in this county. What is said of the turnpike roads and bridges? What circumstances are mentioned as having retarded the progress of education ? What is said of the number and condition of common schools ? Of the academies ? What language is commonly spoken ? What natural curiosities are mentioned ?
7. BRADFORD COUNTY.
Bradford county has the state of New York on the north, the county of Susquehanna on the east, Wyoming on the south-east, Lycoming on the south, and Tioga on the west. Its population, according to the last census, is 32,769.
In its general aspect this county is a broken and hilly rather than a mountainous region ; with a surface frequently rough and rocky, and a soil of but moderate fertility, except along some of the streams, where there are tracts of alluvial land which are very productive.
The Susquehanna and Tioga rivers both enter this county from the state of New York, and unite at Tioga Point, below the town of Athens, about five miles from the state line. From this point the Susquehanna flows south-eastward through Bradford county until it enters Wyoming. The other principal streams are Towanda creek, which runs north-eastward to the Susquehanna below the town of Towanda; Sugar creek, further northward ; and Wysox and Wyalusing creeks in the eastern part of the county. There are many other streams of sufficient size to supply water power for saw mills and other establishments.
A great portion of this county presents very little variety or interest in the geological character of its rocks. They chiefly consist of nearly hori- zontal strata of sandstone, intermixed with slates and shales (VIII and IX,) with some bands of impure limestone, frequently containing fossil shells, and which in some places is sufficiently pure for burning into lime. Some of the hills in the southern part of the county, 10 or 12 miles south-west. ward from Towanda, are capped by the rocks of the coal formation, in which are two beds of bituminous coal, one said to be three and the other five feet in thickness, and near them are iron ore and fire clay. Prelimi- nary surveys have been made for a rail road from Towanda to these coal mines.
Towanda, the seat of justice, is a thriving town situated on the North branch of Susquehanna, nearly in the centre of the county. Population of the borough 912. It contains the usual county
17
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
buildings, consisting of a court house, prison, &c., also a bank, an academy, and several places of public worship. There is a neat and substantial bridge across the river at this place. Athens is also on the Susquehanna, about 15 miles north of Towanda. Several other villages of minor importance are contained within the county.
In this newly settled region the productions of agriculture are neither so valuable nor so extensive as in the older counties. Most of the cereal grains are, however, successfully cultivated, and the soil is admirably adapted to the production of oats, grass, and po- tatoes. Lumber to the amount of near $250,000 is annually pro- duced from the forests, which is mostly floated down the Susque- hanna to a market. The number of saw mills in the county is 213. Pine, hemlock, and sugar maple trees abound in the forests, and from the latter sugar is manufactured annually amounting to upwards of 190,000 pounds.
The North branch division of the Pennsylvania canal, which is not yet completed, passes across nearly the whole breadth of this county and terminates at the northern line of the State, where it is intended to connect with the public improvements of the state of New York. It will, when finished, be of great importance to the trade of this region, as a means of transportation either north or south for the products of the county.
Bradford is mostly settled by emigrants from New England, or their descendants, and the people are generally distinguished for their morality, intelligence, and attention to education. There are 31 school districts in the county, in all of which, except one, the common school system is in full operation. The number of schools reported is 238, which are kept open for instruction during an average of about 63 months in the year. The academy at To- wanda is reported to have about 80 pupils, of whom ten are un- dergoing a course of instruction intended to qualify them for teachers.
Describe the boundaries of Bradford county. Its general surface and the character of the soil. What are the principal rivers ? Large creeks, their situation and course ? What is said of the rock formations ? Where is coal found ? What is its character, and what other minerals accompany it ? Name and describe the county town ? What other place is mentioned and where situated ? What are the most important productions ? What is the amount of lumber produced ? Of maple sugar ? What canal is in this county, and what is said of its importance ? By whom is the county chiefly settled ? What is said of education, and of the common schools ?
8. BUCKS COUNTY.
In its general outline this county is nearly in the form of a pa- rallelogram, having its greatest length from north-west to south- east, about 40 miles, with an average breadth of 15 miles. It con- tains an area of 366,746 acres, or a little more than 573 square miles. The population in 1840 was 48,107.
Bucks county is bounded on the north-east and south-east by the Delaware river, which separates it from New Jersey; on the
195
BUCKS COUNTY.
south-west by Philadelphia and Montgomery counties ; and on the north-west by Lehigh and Northampton.
The Delaware river runs along the eastern border of the county, in a south-eastern direction, for about 46 miles, where it bends to the south-west and runs sixteen miles further to the mouth of Po- queston creek, which is the boundary between Bucks and Phila- delphia counties. This river is navigable for steamboats and vessels of light draught to the lower falls or rapids at Trenton, which is the head of tide water. Lumber is rafted on the river from New York state to Philadelphia, and large quantities also pass from the country on the upper Lehigh down the canal to Bristol.
The Neshaminy is a large stream which rises in Plumstead town- ship and runs south-westward about eight miles ; then turning to the south-east it passes through the southern interior of the county, and empties into the Delaware a few miles below Bristol. This stream affords many valuable mill seats.
Tohickon creek rises in the north-western part of the county, and after a winding course of about 30 miles, falls into the Dela- ware at Point Pleasant, above Black's Eddy.
The north-east branch of Perkiomen has its source in Bedmin- ster township, flows south-westward into Montgomery county, and discharges its waters into the Schuylkill.
In addition to the above named streams, the county is well watered by numerous smaller creeks and rivulets, which, wherever practicable, are improved to furnish power for mills and manufac- turing establishments.
A very large spring rises in Solebury, a few miles west of New Hope, which was called Aquetong by the Indians ; now known as " Ingham's spring." The water flows out in a cove or hollow, near the junction of the red shale and limestone rocks, and like most other large springs maintains a nearly equal temperature throughout the year, seeming remarkably cold in summer and seldom or never freezing in winter. The quantity of water which this spring pours forth, is supposed to be sufficient, with 18 or 20 feet fall, to turn two grist mills throughout the year ; and there are five good mill sites on the stream, between the spring and where it empties into the Delaware at New Hope, a distance of two and a half miles.
The lower end of this county is occupied by gneiss and other primary rocks, the northern limit of which extends from the Delaware above Mor- risville, in a western direction across the county, passing a little north of Attleborough and Rockville, and reaching the Montgomery county line near the north-west corner of Southampton township. North of this the primary rocks are overlapped by the middle secondary red shale and sand- stone formation, which occupies most of the remainder of the county. Ridges and dikes of trap rock are frequent, several of which run westward from the Delaware below New Hope. Others of considerable extent occur in the townships of Haycock and Rockhill. As is usual in this formation, we frequently find the red shale in the vicinity of the trap hills entirely al- tered in colour and texture ; being changed into a hard, compact blue or purplish rock, possessing little of its original character except its uniformity
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
of dip and stratification. This change has probably been effected by the heat of the trappean matter which has found its way in a state of fusion through the dislocated red shale. Some elevated ridges of the altered blue rock are seen, remote from any outburst of trap rocks, in which the change may be attributed to masses of unerupted trap beneath them, which has never reached the surface ; but whose heating influence has been sufficient thus to modify the overlying strata.
The isolated ridge called Buckingham mountain appears to be an up- heaved mass of the sandstone (I) which lies next above the primary rocks. On the north of it we accordingly find a limestone (II,) which is the next rock in order above this sandstone, and which extends in a narrow belt from the Delaware above New Hope, south-westward to a point beyond Centreville, where it disappears, being overlapped by the rocks of the red shale series. Other valuable belts of limestone occur in Durham and Springfield townships, south of the primary rocks of the Lehigh hills or South mountain.
In Southampton township, on the farm of George Vanartsdalen, near the road from the Buck tavern to Attleborough, is a small bed of primary limestone, in which are found Labrador feldspar, plumbago, sulphuret of iron, tabular spar, scapolite, augite, oxide of titanium, mororite, and other mineral combinations. Between this and the village of Smithfield is a lo- cality where plumbago or black lead occurs in considerable quantity, which was formerly mined to some extent, but is now neglected. In the gneiss near the bridge at Rockville, crystals of zircon are found. Sulphate of baryta occurs in abundance near the north-west corner of Upper Make- field township, and also near Ingham's spring in Solebury, at both of which places it has been dug for use within a few years. 'T'he altered rocks near the Delaware below New Hope contain crystals of tourmalin and epidote. Magnetic iron ore, of tolerable purity, is found in Durham township, where it was formerly used for the supply of a furnace in the neighbourhood.
In the same township there is a remarkable cave in the limestone rocks, the entrance to which is about 100 yards from the river. 'The height of the eminence enclosing the cavern is from 200 to 250 feet above the level of the adjoining land. From the pathway of the entrance, to the rock above, is upwards of 40 feet, but the passage, being partly obstructed by rocks, will not admit more than two or three persons to enter abreast. The interior is lofty and consists of three spacious rooms ; the passage from one to the other is over steep and prominent rocks. The first apartment is entered by a descent of about 30 feet. The floor of the second room is lower than the first ; and that of the third is still lower, in the bottom of which is a spring of excellent water, supposed to communicate with the creek or river. The entire length of the cavern from north to south is about 90 yards.
In quarrying limestone a little to the east of the entrance to this cave, an opening was made into another running parallel with it ; and which, though not so wide, is of the same length. This abounds with white stalactites, and probably communicates with the other.
The limestone tracts in this county are highly valued, and lime is extensively used as a manure for agricultural purposes, as well as for building, &c. In addition to that which these afford, large quantities of limestone and lime are brought down the canal from the neighbourhood of Easton, for the supply of the lower part of the county ; the stone being burned in kilns near the canal, and the lime sold at 10 and 12} cents per bushel. Building stone is abun- dant in most parts of the county : some of the sandstone strata in the red shale formation are peculiarly excellent, and may be dressed and cut into any desired form, affording a handsome and durable material for walls, bridges, canal locks, &c.
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BUCKS COUNTY.
The soil is generally good, and in no part of Pennsylvania is agriculture better understood and practised than in the middle and lower parts of Bucks county. Great attention is paid to the care- ful tillage and improvement of the soil, and the farms and build- ings generally exhibit that love of neatness, order and convenience which is characteristic of the judicious and industrious agricul- turist.
The climate of course resembles that of the other south-eastern counties of the State. The mean annual temperature is about 51º -that of the winter 29 or 30º, and of summer 71 or 72º. The greatest cold is seldom as low as 0°, and the greatest heat 90 to 92°. With regard to the changes and variations of climate in this part of Pennsylvania, we may say with Dr. Rush, " We have no two successive years alike. Even the same successive seasons _ and months differ from each other every year. There is but one steady trait, and that is, it is uniformly variable."
Doylestown has been the county town since 1812. It is situated 24 miles due north from Philadelphia, upon an eminence com- manding an extensive view of a region of country remarkable for its beauty, fertility and salubrity ; and the town, for neatness and order, is surpassed by few in the State. It contains a court house, . county offices, and prison, situated in the centre of the town, and surrounded with a park adorned with trees. The other public buildings are a bank; three houses for public worship, belonging to Presbyterians, Friends, and Methodists ; a female seminary, and an academy. There are also several literary societies and a library company. Four weekly newspapers are printed here, two in the English and two in the German language. The bo- rough and township contain about 2000 inhabitants.
Bristol is a port of entry situated on the Delaware, 20 miles above Philadelphia, and 10 below Trenton, being nearly opposite to Burlington in New Jersey. The town is neat and cleanly, and presents a beautiful appearance when viewed from the river. The public buildings are a town hall, with a market attached, a bank, an Episcopal church, one Methodist and two Friends' meeting houses, and a spacious brick school house erected expressly for common schools.
The Delaware division of the Pennsylvania canal terminates at Bristol in a large and beautiful basin. The Lehigh, Beaver Mea- dow and Hazelton Coal Companies have severally established their depots here, which, together with other produce descending the canal, make it a place of considerable commercial importance. The population in 1840 was 1,448.
New Hope is pleasantly situated on the Delaware, 31 miles from Philadelphia, and 11 from Doylestown. It is opposite to Lam- bertsville in New Jersey, with which it is connected by a ffe bridge across the river. It contains 820 inhabitants, and has an academy, a lyceum and a Methodist church. A company is established here for the manufacture of Ball's patent door locks, and a number of mills and factories are in the town and its vicinity. The Delaware division of the State canal passes through 17*
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
the town, affording facilities for considerable trade and business. The scenery in the vicinity is picturesque, and the town is envi- roned by several hills of considerable elevation.
Newtown, Attleborough, Yardleyville, and Morrisville are also considerable villages, increasing in size and importance. Many other thriving villages are situated in various parts of the county. The Bucks county almshouse is in Warwick township, about three miles south of Doylestown. It is a capacious building, having a large farm attached, and is admirably situated for health and agreeable scenery.
Bucks county is chiefly an agricultural district and the farms are highly improved. The principal productions are wheat, rye, Indian corn, oats, buckwheat, butter, pork, poultry, various fruits and other articles for home consumption, and the supply of the Phila- delphia market.
The manufacturing establishments are numerous, and some of them extensive. There are 11 flour mills, 94 grist mills, 80 saw mills ; several woollen and cotton factories, a number of iron foun- dries and establishments for the manufacture of carriages, wagons, and agricultural implements ; and various other branches of me- chanical industry are successfully pursued.
The prevailing growth of timber is chiefly various kinds of oak and hickory, chestnut, ash, poplar, and other useful trees; but in a country so generally under cultivation, timber cannot be said to be abundant.
The estimated value of real and personal property assessed for county purposes in 1842 was $17,004,945; county tax $33,643; State tax $25,477.
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