USA > Pennsylvania > A geography of Pennsylvania : containing an account of the history, geographical features, soil, climate, geology, botany, zoology, population, education, government, finances, productions, trade, railroads, canals &c. of the state : with a separate description of each county, and questions for the convenience of teachers : to which is appended, a travellers' guide, or table of distances on the principal rail road, canal and stage routes in the state > Part 28
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Bloomsburg is a flourishing place near the river and canal, nine miles above Danville. Catawissa is on the east side of the river, at the mouth of Catawissa creek, three miles south of Bloomsburg. Berwick is on the river and canal at the eastern line of the county, 12 miles above Bloomsburg. Jerseytown, Washington, and Fruitstown are villages towards the north-west of the county. Moorsburg is five miles north-west of Danville; Williamsburg and Orangeville are near Fishing creek, north of Bloomsburg; and Mifflin on the south side of the river below Berwick.
Agriculture forms the chief occupation of the inhabitants, and a large amount of surplus productions, consisting of flour, grain, pork and various other articles, are sent by the canal to a market at Philadelphia, Baltimore and other places. Iron has also be- come one of the staple productions : eight blast furnaces have been erected, which are supplied with the ore from Montour's ridge, and many thousand tons of ore are annually sent from this county for the supply of other furnaces. There is a forge on Cata- wissa creek, for making bar iron.
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223
CRAWFORD COUNTY.
The value of property subject to taxation for county purposes for 1842 was assessed at $4,522,106: county tax $13,461 : State tax $7,312.
About 25 miles of the North branch division of the State canal are in Columbia county, extending from a little below Danville to Berwick, where it passes into Luzerne. There are bridges across the river at Danville, Catawissa and Berwick. A turnpike road extends from Danville to Pottsville. The unfinished Little Schuyl- kill and Catawissa rail road is partly in this county, passing down the valley of Catawissa creek.
The subject of general education has been much neglected in many parts of the county. Schools are not sufficiently encouraged, and incompetent teachers, as is too often the case in other parts of the State, are entrusted with the care of youth and with their mo- ral and literary improvement, which, under such guidance, seldom leads to the acquirement of solid and useful attainments. There are 19 school districts in the county, of which 15 have adopted the common school system as established by law, and have 107 schools in operation, in which instruction is given during an ave- rage period of about 4 months in the year. There is an academy and a female seminary at Danville.
Methodists and Presbyterians are the most numerous religious denominations. There are some Episcopalians and Friends, as well as several other societies. Many of the early settlers were Germans from Berks, Northampton and Lancaster; some emi- grants from New Jersey, and a number from Bucks and others of the older counties of Pennsylvania.
By what counties is Columbia bounded ? Describe the face of the country and soil. What are the principal mountains ? Where does a valuable iron ore occur ? Describe the range of the limestone formation. On what moun- tains is anthracite coal ? What river is in this county? Mention the rise and course of the principal creeks. What is the county town and how situ- ated ? Give an account of its iron works, public buildings, &c. Where is Bloomsburg ? Catawissa ? Berwick ? What other places are mentioned, and how situated ? Mention the agricultural products, and by what route sent to market. What iron works are established ? What canal, bridges, turnpike, and rail road are in this county ? What is said of education in general ? Of common schools and academies ? Religious denominations ? Early settlers of the county ?
18. CRAWFORD COUNTY.
Crawford county has Erie on the north, Warren on the east, Venango and Mercer on the south, and the state of Ohio on the west. The number of its inhabitants, according to the census of 1840, was 31,724.
The surface of the country is rolling and uneven, approaching to hilly, and presents many agreeable and picturesque views of varied and beautiful scenery. A soil naturally fertile and produc- tive is found in most parts of the county ; but this being a rather newly settled region, art has yet done but little towards improving and embellishing the wilder features of nature.
224
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
In considering the geological character of the rocks which extend over the greatest portion of this county, we find but little to indicate the existence of any very valuable mineral deposits. The north-western part contains rock strata of formations whose position is below the coal measures, and having a gentle descent towards the south-east, they pass in that direction below the north-western margin of the great bituminous coal field. In the southern part we find the coarse and massive sandstone which constitutes the bottom or floor of the productive coal measures ; but here it lies so near the summits of the hills as to preclude the idea of any extensive bed of coal being contained above it, except in some peculiar localities towards the south-west of the county. Thin beds of impure coal may be some- times met with in the rocks below this sandstone, but they are seldom productive or valuable. An extensive deposit of calcareous marl is said to have been found near Harmonsburg, from which lime is manufactured.
This county is chiefly watered by French creek and its nume- rous branches, the principal of which are the Conneaut and Cus- sawago. In the south-west are some branches of the Shenango, and in the east are the head waters of Oil creek, which flows southward to the Allegheny river. Conneaut lake is a beautiful sheet of water, about five miles in length and two in breadth, situ- ated a few miles west of Meadville. Oil creek lake in the north- eastern, and Sugar creek lake in the southern part of the county are of less extent, but form highly ornamental features in the natural scenery of this picturesque region.
Meadville, the county town, is pleasantly situated on French creek, 25 miles north-west from Franklin on the Allegheny river, and 37 south of Erie. Its population is upwards of 1,300. In the centre of the town is a public square, on which stand the court house, a spacious and well built edifice; the Episcopalian church, also a very creditable specimen of architecture; and the Presbyte- rian church. There are several other places of public worship in the town. An arsenal has been erected here for the preservation of arms belonging to the State.
Allegheny college is built upon an eminence about half a mile north of the town, and commands a fine view of the surrounding country. The main building is four stories in height, surmounted by a cupola and flanked with wings of three stories, being 120 feet in front by 44 feet deep. The order of architecture is Ionic, and the general appearance of the whole edifice produces a pleasing effect.
Harmonsburg, Conneaut, and other improving villages also be- long to this county.
By far the greater portion of the inhabitants are engaged in agricultural pursuits, the productions being grain of different kinds, potatoes, hay, wool, &c. The soil being favourable for grazing, considerable attention is paid to the rearing of live stock, and the products of the dairy are estimated to amount annually to near $50,000.
Timber is in great plenty, but little lumber is produced except for domestic consumption. The sugar maple grows abundantly and the annual product of maple sugar in the county is about 214,000 pounds. Pot and pearl ashes are also made to the amount of about 50 tons in a year.
225
CUMBERLAND COUNTY.
The numerous streams afford a plentiful supply of water power, part of which is employed in propelling 168 grist and saw mills, a number of fulling mills, oil and paper mills and other manufac- turing machinery.
According to the assessment for 1842, the value of property subject to taxation in this county was $2,768,546: county tax $8,305: State tax $2,768.
The general improvement of Crawford county and the pros- perity of its agricultural, manufacturing and commercial business, will be greatly increased by the completion of the Erie extension of the Pennsylvania canal, which extends through the county from south to north. Another branch of the State canal has been constructed from Meadville, down French creek, to the Allegheny river at Franklin.
There are several turnpike roads, the principal of which is that leading from Pittsburg to Erie, which crosses the whole breadth of the county, passing through Meadville; and one from Meadville to Franklin.
A respectable portion of the population may be described as in- telligent, enterprising and industrious. Several societies have been established for the promotion of moral, religious, and charitable. objects. Popular education is encouraged and common schools are established in every district, under the provisions of the law. The number of districts is 27, all of which reported to the superintend- ent in 1842, showing an aggregate of 250 schools in operation under the public system, the average time of instruction being up- wards of 5 months in the year.
In Allegheny college upwards of 120 students are instructed in the higher branches of learning. A manual labour department is connected with the college, consisting of a farm of 60 acres and a work shop, by means of which a considerable number of students are enabled to support themselves by their own labour, and to de- fray the expenses of their education. The institution is furnished with chemical and philosophical apparatus, and has a library which is said to contain 8,000 volumes.
How is Crawford county bounded ? What is the character of the surface and soil ? What is said of the rock formations in general, and of the pro- bability of their containing valuable mineral deposits ? What is the princi- pal stream and its branches ? What other creeks and lakes are mentioned ? Name the county town, its situation and public buildings. Describe Alle- gheny college. What other villages are there ? In what occupation are most of the inhabitants engaged ? Mention the productions of the farm and the dairy. Also those of the forest. What is said of mills, &c. Mention the canals in this county and their advantages to the inhabitants. Turnpike roads. What is the general character of the population ? The condition of education, and the common schools ? What is said of Allegheny college ?
19. CUMBERLAND COUNTY.
Cumberland county is bounded on the north by Perry, on the east by the Susquehanna river, which separates it from Dauphin,
226
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
on the south by York and Adams; and on the west by Franklin. Population, 30,953.
The greater portion of this county lying within the great Kitta- tiny valley is comparatively level, though the slate region in the north, between the limestone and the Blue mountain, has a some- what uneven and hilly surface. In the southern part are the ridges of the South mountain, which are generally rough and un- cultivated, being mostly covered with timber. The Blue or Kit- tatiny mountain, which extends along the northern side of the county, and forms the division line between Cumberland and Perry, is of considerable height, and affords, from many points on its summit, an extended and charming prospect of the beautiful valley on the south and east. A wide and varied landscape of woodland, farms and villages is spread before the view like an im- mense picture, stretching away in the distance until mingling with the dim horizon; and the eye wanders in delighted admiration over the beautiful and extended scene.
The Susquehanna, which flows along the eastern side of Cum-, berland, is the only navigable stream in the county. Conedoguinet is a large creek, which rises in Franklin and runs in a very ser- pentine course through the northern part of Cumberland to the Susquehanna, into which it empties about two miles above Har- risburg. It affords water power to a number of mills and other manufacturing establishments ; but is an unsteady stream, being subject to freshets in heavy rains, and sometimes becoming very low in long continued periods of dry weather. Yellow Breeches creek rises from a number of large springs in the south-western part of the county near the South mountain, and flows through the southern portion of Cumberland until it forms the line between this and York county,-emptying into the Susquehanna three miles below Harrisburg. It is a clear, rapid, and lively stream ; not liable to be affected by dry seasons, and scarcely freezing in winter. It affords an invaluable amount of water power to the mills, forges and furnaces situated upon it and its branches. The present uncouth appellation given to this beautiful stream renders it very desirable that its original Indian name should be restored ; this seems, however, now to be lost; for after the most diligent re- search and inquiry we have been unable to discover it.
Several very large springs rise within this county. One at Springfield, south of Newville, throws out a volume of water suf- ficient to turn several mill wheels within a few rods of the spring, and forms a considerable stream, which runs northward to the Conedoguinet, having its banks studded with mills. Letart's spring, south of Carlisle, also yields a flow of water sufficient for mills at its source, and for many others along the stream which runs from it. Many other large springs exist near the head of Yellow Breeches creek, in the south-western part of the county .. Near Dublin gap, at the foot of the Blue mountain, is a spring strongly impregnated with sulphur; and Carlisle springs, four miles from the town, have acquired some note as a fashionable place of resort. At Mount Rock, seven miles west of Carlisle, a.
227
CUMBERLAND COUNTY.
large spring issues from a limestone rock, the water from which, after running a short distance, sinks again into the earth, and passing under a hill, once more reappears on the north side and pursues its course to the Conedoguinet.
The ridges of the South mountain, in the southern part of Cumberland, are almost wholly composed of hard white sandstone (I,) and have a meager rocky soil, mostly covered with timber, which yields fuel for the furnaces and forges in that region. At Pine Grove furnace, on Mountain creek, is a detached bed of limestone, of limited extent, surrounded by the mountain sandstone ; and connected with it a deposit of brown argillaceous and hematite iron ore, which is productive and has been worked for many years. At the northern base of the South mountain commences the great limestone formation of the Kittatiny valley (II,) which extends northward until it meets the next formation of dark slate (III,) situate between the limestone and the Kittatiny mountain. Along the northern side of the South mountain, near the contact of the white sandstone with the lime- stone, iron ore is abundant, and is extensively mined for the supply of fur- naces. Further north, and wholly within the limestone formation, pipe ore and other varieties of excellent quality may be obtained in many places. The rocks of the Kittatiny mountain are the coarse gray and reddish sand- stones (IV) next in order above the slate, and are not particularly valuable either for their utility or their mineral contents. In the neighbourhood of Lisburn, on Yellow Breeches creek, the middle secondary red shales and sandstones pass across from York county, overlapping the limestone to a limited extent. Large beds of the calcareous conglomerate belonging to the upper portion of this formation are visible along the steep banks of the creek ; but the material is generally too silicious to be worked and polished as the Potomac marble, with which it is identical in other respects. Some ridges and dikes of trap rock are also apparent in the same neighbourhood, connected with the great trappean range in the north of York county. A remarkable trap dike issues from the South mountain near Carlisle Iron works, and extends northward through the limestone and slate, forming an abrupt stony ridge quite across the county to the Blue mountain, east of Sterrett's gap. This dike is believed to pass through the Blue moun- tain, being probably the same which is seen near the Susquehanna in Perry county, and again east of the river in Lykens' valley above Millers- burg, in Dauphin county.
The soil of the limestone portion of Cumberland is exceedingly fertile, and is generally well cultivated. Beautiful and highly im- proved farms offer a pleasing subject of attention to the traveller in this valley, where a healthy and industrious population, sur- rounded by comfort and plenty, find their wants abundantly sup- plied by the luxuriant productions of a region so highly favoured by nature. The slate lands, north of the limestone, are more un- even in surface, and the soil less fertile ; but when well farmed and improved by the use of lime and other manures, good crops are produced, and the labours of the husbandman are amply re- paid.
Carlisle is the county town, situated on the turnpike, 18 miles west of Harrisburg, and 118 from Philadelphia. The Cumberland Valley rail road, from Harrisburg to Chambersburg, also passes through it, affording daily communication east and west. Being pleasantly situated, in the midst of a healthy and fertile country, handsomely laid out, and well built, inhabited by a well bred and intelligent population, Carlisle is one of the most agreeable places
228
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
in the interior of Pennsylvania. The public buildings are a court house, a prison, a market house, a bank, and nine or ten churches, several of which are large and handsome edifices. Dickinson col- lege is a spacious building, 150 feet in length and four stories high, which, together with its enclosed grounds, is situated in the border of the town. The borough contains 4,351 inhabitants. A short distance east of the town are commodious barracks for the United States' troops, where numbers of them are frequently quartered. In the same neighbourhood is the county almshouse.
Shippensburg is an old established town on the western border of the county, adjoining Franklin, with a population of 1,473. The turnpike and rail road from Carlisle to Chambersburg both pass through this place, and considerable local business is done here in the way of trade and manufactures.
Mechanicsburg is a flourishing town on the rail road, about 8 miles east of Carlisle, containing 700 inhabitants, situated in a fer- tile and well settled neighbourhood, and a place of increasing business.
Newville, is in the north-west part of the county, 12 miles from Carlisle, near the rail road, and has about 650 inhabitants.
New Cumberland, a village at the mouth of Yellow Breeches creek, contains about 300 inhabitants, and has several flour mills, saw mills, nail works, &c.
Lisburn is on Yellow Breeches creek, in the south-eastern part of Cumberland; and several other thriving villages exist in diffe- rent parts of the county.
The productions are chiefly agricultural, consisting of various kinds of grain, live stock, salted provisions, &c. Manufactures, of different kinds, are also carried on to some extent. The county contains 8 furnaces and 5 forges, in which large quantities of iron are made from the ore of this region, and which yield employ- ment and support to a considerable number of workmen. The surplus productions of the county are mostly sent to Philadelphia by rail road or by the canal from Harrisburg, and to Baltimore by the Susquehanna or by land. Timber is abundant, the mountains affording a plentiful supply for the iron works, and the farms mostly having a sufficiency for domestic uses. Oak, hickory, chestnut, walnut, ash, poplar, &c., are the prevailing kinds. Pitch pine grows on the mountains and on the slate hills, and lo- cust is common in the limestone soil of the valley.
The assessed value of real and personal property, made taxable for county purposes in 1842, was $11,368,510: county tax $11,368: State tax $15,145.
The Cumberland Valley rail road extends through this county from the Susquehanna river at Harrisburg, westward by Mecha- nicsburg, Carlisle, Newville and Shippensburg to Chambersburg in Franklin county. The turnpike from Harrisburg to Chambers- burg and Bedford also extends in the same direction. Another turnpike leads from Carlisle southward towards Baltimore.
Cumberland county contains 18 school districts, and the com- mon school system has been generally adopted. The condition
229
DAUPHIN COUNTY.
of education seems to be improving. Upwards of 120 schools are reported as being in operation, which are open from 4 to 11 months in the year.
Dickinson college, at Carlisle, was incorporated in 1783, and named in honour of John Dickinson, an eminent citizen, who was a liberal donor to the institution. It has been frequently aided with funds granted by the State; but having several times suffered from fire, and being depressed by other adverse causes, its usefulness has been much impaired. Some years since it was placed under the care of the Methodist conference, since which time it has been apparently more prosperous. The number of students in the col- lege proper is 123, and in the preparatory department 56. There is also at Carlisle a female seminary containing about 50 pupils.
This county is principally inhabited by the descendants of the early Irish and German settlers. The German language is yet spoken in many families, though there are few who cannot speak English. The inhabitants are generally a moral and industrious people; Sunday schools, Temperance, Bible, and Missionary so- cieties as well as other religious and benevolent associations are numerous.
Among the natural curiosities of the county may be mentioned a large cave on the bank of the Conedoguinet, about a mile north of Carlisle. The entrance is by a semicircular archway, seven or eight feet high, in a limestone cliff immediately on the bank of the creek. From this a vaulted passage, eighty or ninety yards in length, leads to a point where it branches off in three directions. One of these leads to a large chamber, extending to a considerable distance: the others are smaller and of somewhat difficult access. This cave is well worthy of a visit from those who have never ex- plored more extensive subterranean wonders of the same kind.
How is Cumberland county bounded ? Describe the face of the country and name the principal mountains. What river flows along the eastern side? Describe the rise, course, and character of Conedoguinet creek. Of Yel- low Breeches creek. What large springs are mentioned ? Mineral springs ? At what place is iron ore found ? What remarkable dike of trap rock is mentioned and what is its extent ? What is said of the several varieties of soil ? Give a description of Carlisle, its situation, public buildings, &c. Where is Shippensburg ? Mechanicsburg ? Newville ? New Cumberland ? Lisburn ? What is said of the productions, iron works, &c. ? By what route is the surplus produce sent to market ? What are the common kinds of timber ? What rail road and turnpikes in the county ? What is said of the schools and the general condition of education ? Give an account of Dickinson college. From whom are the inhabitants mostly descended, and what is their character for morality and industry ? Describe the cave on the bank of Conedoguinet near Carlisle.
20. DAUPHIN COUNTY.
Dauphin county is bounded on the north by Northumberland ; east by Schuylkill and Lebanon; south by Lancaster ; and west by the Susquehanna river, which separates it from York, Cum- berland and Perry. Population, 30,118.
20
230
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
In the southern part are some tracts of comparatively level land, but most of that portion may be more properly termed rolling or hilly : the middle and northern parts are mountainous. The Kit- tatiny or Blue mountain extends from north-east to south-west across the middle of the county ; a little further northward, and running parallel with the Blue mountain, is the Second moun- tain. The Third and Fourth mountains, entering this county from the eastward, unite in a high bold ridge which terminates about two miles east of the Susquehanna, and is there called the Third mountain. The Second mountain, crossing the Susquehanna be- low the town of Dauphin, folds round "the cove" on the west side of the river, and returns eastward again across the Susque- hanna below Duncan's island. It is here called Peters' mountain, and ranges north-eastward through Dauphin to the Schuylkill county line, near which it unites with Berry's mountain. The latter runs nearly eastward, from the Susquehanna below Millers- burg, to its junction with Peters' mountain. The Mahontongo mountain extends from the Susquehanna river along the whole northern border of the county. Bear and Big Lick mountains en- ter the north-eastern part of Dauphin, where they unite and ter- minate abruptly about twelve miles east of the river. Between Berry's and Peters' mountains is a series of irregular elevations known by the name of Dividing ridge, separating Armstrong's and Powell's valleys, and further eastward the Short or Broad mountain.
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