USA > Pennsylvania > A geography of Pennsylvania : containing an account of the history, geographical features, soil, climate, geology, botany, zoology, population, education, government, finances, productions, trade, railroads, canals &c. of the state : with a separate description of each county, and questions for the convenience of teachers : to which is appended, a travellers' guide, or table of distances on the principal rail road, canal and stage routes in the state > Part 36
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35. LYCOMING COUNTY.
Lycoming is bounded north by Tioga and Bradford; east by Luzerne; south by Columbia, Northumberland and Union; and west by Clinton. Population 22,649.
The face of the country is generally uneven and mountainous, though there are many beautiful and fertile valleys, and a consi- derable portion of the rolling upland is susceptible of cultivation.
White Deer mountain is on the southern line of the county, dividing it from Union; Bald Eagle mountain extends on the south side of the West Branch of Susquehanna, from near Muncy to the western limit of Lycoming, and thence continues through Clinton and Centre. The Muncy hills are on the east of the river, and divide Lycoming from Northumberland and Columbia. North- ward is a high range of irregular elevations, deeply inter- sected by the channels of the principal streams, and known by the name of the North mountain; being the great Allegheny pro- longed eastward. Beyond this is a high table land, with the streams running in deep and rocky ravines, and the surface being irregular and uneven. This is mostly a wild unsettled country, covered with almost impenetrable forests and laurel swamps, and offering few attractions except to the adventurous hunter, or the explorers in search of coal and iron ore.
Nippenose valley, in the south-west of the county, presents a number of remarkable and interesting features. It is of a regular oval shape, being about ten miles in length and four in breadth, forming an elliptical basin surrounded by a rim of high and steep mountains. The only access to it, without climbing these moun- tains, is by a deep gap in the Bald Eagle mountain, opposite Jer- sey shore. The bed of this valley is composed of limestone, con- taining fissures and caverns beneath the soil, into which the numerous streams that descend from the mountains sink and disappear. Finding their way, however, under ground, and uniting their waters in those subterranean channels, the whole body gushes forth in one enormous spring, near the gap in the mountain, forming a powerful stream, which passes through the gap and falls into the river above the town of Jersey shore.
The limestone of this valley (II) is the lowest geological formation in the
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county, being the same as that of the Cumberland, Kishicoquillas and other valleys in the State. It is surrounded by a margin of the overlying dark slate (III,) which is surmounted by the sandstone (IV) of the Bald Eagle and White Deer mountains. From the end of Bald Eagle mountain, near Muncy, the slates and red shales of the next formation (V) range along the north side of the mountain throughout its whole length, having a north- western dip, and being overlaid by the limestone (VI) which appears along the valley of the West branch, from Muncy to the mouth of Bald Eagle creek, and thence up the valley of that stream. The coarse fossiliferous sandstone (VII,) which belongs next above the limestone last mentioned, is here so thin as to be scarcely perceptible. The olive slate series (VIII,) extends from the Muncy hills around to the north of the limestone belt, and continues along the north side of the valley to Dunnstown, where it crosses the river above Bald Eagle creek. This formation is seen in the range of gently rounded hills which extend along the north side of the valley, beyond the limestone. Still further northward we find the red shales and sandstones (IX) stretching in a wide belt over the hilly region along the base of the Allegheny range; and above it is the compact gray sandstone (X,) capping some of the highest ridges which form the front of that general elevation. Almost in contact with this (the upper red shale and sandstone (XI) being so thin as to be hardly perceived) is the conglo- merate and sandstone (XII) which forms the floor of the coal measures ; and which, on some of the hills, supports detached portions of the coal series, containing the lower coal seams, with their accompanying strata of iron ore and fire clay. A band of red compact silicious iron ore occurs in the lower part of the red sliale and sandstone series (IX,) near its contact with the upper portion of the olive slate formation. This line of ore seems to range across a considerable extent of country, having been mined on Pine creek and Larry's creek, and appearing on Lycoming creek near the mouth of Hogeland's run, whence it probably continues to the eastward. Copper ore has been found near Muncy creek, but not as yet in any great quantity.
The limestone (VI) which appears about Muncy, crosses to the west side of the river and folds round the olive slate of the Muncy hills again to the river above White Deer mountain, forming, together with the accom- panying red shale series, (V,) most of White Deer and Black Hole valleys, the red shale extending to the base of the enclosing mountains.
This county is watered by many fine streams. The West branch of Susquehanna passes through it in an eastward direction to the town of Muncy, and there turns to the south. Pine creek is a large stream, navigable for rafts and arks at high water : it flows south-eastward to the West branch near the western boundary of the county. Lycoming and Loyalsock are large creeks, rising in the wild forest region in the north of the county, and flowing southward to the West branch. Muncy creek is also a consider- able stream, running south-westward and emptying into the river near the town of Muncy. Larry's creek is in the western part of the county, between Pine and Lycoming creeks.
Williamsport is the county town, beautifully situated on the north side of the West branch, having a population of 1,353. The court-house is an elegant building of brick, having a yard enclosed with a cast iron railing and planted with trees. The county prison is built of stone. There are two large Presbyterian churches, a neat Episcopal church, one Methodist, and one German Reformed church, and a large brick academy. The town contains three commodious and well kept hotels, with a number of handsome
25
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA,
private dwellings. Being situated on the West branch canal, at the termination of the Williamsport and Elmira rail road, it is a place of considerable business.
Muncy is an incorporated borough, with nearly 700 inhabitants, situated in a pleasant valley called " Muncy manor," about a mile from the river and canal, 14 miles below Williamsport.
Jersey-shore, a borough with 525 inhabitants, is on the river and canal, in the western part of the county, 14 miles above Williams- port.
Newbury is a village near the mouth of Lycoming creek, 3 miles above the county town.
Ralston is a new place on the Williamsport and Elmira rail road, about 25 miles from Williamsport, in the neighbourhood of the coal mines.
The agricultural productions are wheat and other kinds of grain, pork, and the various other commodities usually produced by farmers in this part of the State. There are many excellent mills; most of the wheat being manufactured into flour before sending it to mar- ket, Whisky was formerly a considerable article of export, and there were 8 or 10 distilleries within a few miles of each other in the lower part of the county ; but at present there are only two or three of them in operation. In this, as in other counties of the State, the happy influence and general prevalence of sober and temperate habits has had the effect of stopping most of the manu- factories of intoxicating liquors.
Within the last few years, the soil in some of the poorer dis- tricts has been greatly improved by the use of lime as a manure, and large quantities are now annually burned from the limestone for that purpose.
The manufacture of iron is considerable; Astonville furnace, and the Crescent iron works and nail factory are on Lycoming creek, on which stream there is also a forge; a blast furnace on Pine creek; a large iron foundry at Williamsport and another at Muncy. A great quantity of leather is produced from a number of extensive tanneries. There are also several woollen factories and other manufacturing establishments.
Timber is abundant, consisting of oak, pine, spruce-hemlock, cherry, ash, maple and various other kinds. There are in the county 155 saw mills, producing large quantities of lumber, the surplus of which is sent down the river and canal to a market. About half a mile above Williamsport is a noble saw mill, be- longing to the " Philadelphia Lumber Company," where an ex- tensive business is carried on.
According to the assessment of 1842, the value of property sub- ject to county taxation was $4,931,366: county tax $11,344: State tax $7,033.
The West branch division of the State canal follows the course of the river through this county, from east to west; passing through the principal towns, and adding greatly to the agricul- tural and commercial wealth and importance of the whole region. The transportation of produce and merchandise is now so easy,
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and business communication with the Atlantic cities so constant and regular, as to render the remote situation of the district a mat- ter of little inconvenience. The rail road from Williamsport to Elmira will, when finished, afford a communication northward with the state of New York. About 30 miles of it are completed and in operation, extending from Williamsport to the coal and iron region on the head waters of Lycoming creek.
There are no turnpike roads in the county, and many of the common roads in the more unsettled parts are rough and unpleas- ant. There is a bridge across the river at Jersey shore, and others over the large creeks along the main road leading to Williamsport.
The people, in the older settled parts of the county, are gene- rally enterprising and intelligent, and some encouragement is given to the cause of education. There is a classical school in the aca- demy at Williamsport, and common schools are tolerably well sus- tained in certain districts. The number of school districts is 31, of which 29 have accepted the law, and have 128 schools estab- lished, in which the general average period of instruction is about five months in the year.
The prevailing religious denominations are Presbyterians, Me- thodists, Baptists, Episcopalians and German Reformed. In the ยท neighbourhood of Muncy is a large and respectable society of Friends or Quakers.
Lycoming was chiefly settled by people from the lower counties of Pennsylvania and from New Jersey. Many of the principal families are of German and Irish origin ; the German language being still spoken by some of the inhabitants.
In passing through this county the traveller will find much to admire in the boldness and beauty of the scenery. Lofty moun - tains, gentle hills and fertile valleys are seen in varied succession, the noble river winding among richly cultivated fields and busy towns, or washing the rocky base of mountain precipices ; the winding canal, with the lazy boats gliding quietly along its surface, while the sound of the boatman's horn rings loud and clear over valley and river, returning in varied echoes from the mountain glens.
But it is in the solitary and uninhabited region in the north of the county, where nature appears in those wilder features which characterized our deep and dark forest country, before the axe of the settler pierced the dense mantle of woods which covered the sur- face, and cleared for himself a little spot where the sun might shine upon the soil. Here the primitive forest is seen in all its grandeur ; huge trees, the patriarchs of the woods, lift their tall forms above the younger growth around them; while the prostrate trunks of the fallen dead-dead from age and decay, or overthrown by the conquering storm-are scattered thickly among the feet of the liv- ing, and there lie, as if to remind them of their own inevitable fate, until, by the slow process of decay, they are reunited to the earth from which they sprang.
There are quiet little lakes there too, sleeping amid the dark woods, whose waters no boat has ever disturbed since the light ca-
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
noe of the Indian floated gracefully over their surface. One of these, called Lewis' or Hunter's lake, on the head waters of Muncy creek, has an extent of 250 or 300 acres, and is sometimes visited for the purpose of hunting and fishing. Trout are abundant in most of the mountain streams : bears and deer are taken by the hunters in considerable numbers. Wild cats are common ; but wolves and panthers are becoming much more rare than formerly.
What are the boundaries of Lycoming ? Describe the face of the coun- try. Name the principal mountains, and their situation. Give a descrip- tion of Nippenose valley. What rock formation does it contain ? De- scribe the range of the other formations. Where is coal found ? Iron and copper ores ? What river flows through the county ? Mention the large creeks, their situation and course. What is said of Williamsport, its situa- tion, public buildings, &c. ? What other towns are mentioned, and where situated ? What is said of the productions ?- of whisky and distilleries ? By what means has the soil been recently improved ? Mention the iron works and manufactories. Products of the forest. What canal is in this county, and what is said of its importance to the interest of the inhabitants ? What rail road ? What is said of education, academies and schools ? Name the principal religious societies. By whom was the county chiefly settled ? What is said of the interesting scenery of this county ? Where is Lewis' lake ? What species of game abound ?
36. MCKEAN COUNTY.
McKean county adjoins the state of New York on the north, Potter county on the east, Elk on the south, and Warren on the west, Inhabitants 2,975.
The surface of the country is rolling and uneven, being some- what hilly and broken along the streams, but nowhere mountain- ous. The soil is said to be admirably adapted to grazing, and even in its natural state affords good pasturage for cattle in the woods. Most of the county is covered by a heavy growth of fo- rest timber, the country is sparsely inhabited and the settlements few and far between.
Lumber is the staple production, which is principally floated down the Allegheny river to a market. Large quantities of maple sugar are made by the inhabitants, and salt is manufactured to some extent from salt wells in the county.
The lower strata of the bituminous coal formation extend over a portion of the southern section of this county ; but in the north we find rocks whose geological position is below the coal measures. and which, having a gentle inclination towards the south, pass beneath the coal bearing strata in that direction. Iron ore will probably be discovered at a future day, when the country shall have been more minutely explored.
The principal streams are the head waters of the Allegheny river, which flows northward into the state of New York, and then turn- ing to the south-west, re-enters Pennsylvania at the north-western corner of this county. In the west is Kenzua creek, a branch of the Allegheny : and in the south the sources of the Clarion river. In the south-east rises Sinnemahoning creek, a tributary to the West branch of Susquehanna.
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MERCER COUNTY.
Smethport is the seat of justice,-a small town containing the usual county buildings. There are some public roads leading from this place in different directions, but in general the facilities for travelling, except on horseback, are by no means extensive.
Even among this scattered population, education is not neg- lected. Common schools are established according to the system provided by law, and reports from each of the 9 districts have been received by the superintendent, showing that 37 schools are in operation, which are taught on an average nearly six months in the year.
Assessed valuation of property subject to taxation in 1842, $526,321 : county tax $5,263 : State tax $535.
Many of the earlier settlers were from the Eastern states, and some from other parts of Pennsylvania.
How is McKean county bounded ? What is the nature of the surface and soil ? Mention the staple production, and the principal articles of manu- facture. What is the geological character of the county ? Describe the principal streams. What is the county town? What is said of education ? By whom was the county first settled ?
37. MERCER COUNTY.
Mercer has Crawford on the north, Venango on the east, Butler on the south-east, Beaver on the south, and the state of Ohio on the west. The entire population in 1840 was 32,873.
In some portions of the county the surface may almost be called level ; but it is generally rolling and uneven, without being much broken. Tracts of alluvial bottom land of remarkable fertility are found in the valleys of the water courses : the upland is generally a clayey loam, producing good crops of grain and grass. In the southern part, where limestone is most abundant, the soil is highly fertile and of enduring quality. Few counties combine more ad- vantages than this : it has a rich soil, a pleasant and healthy cli- mate, pure and wholesome water in sufficient abundance for every purpose, and is favourably situated for trade by means of the State improvements.
The rock strata of Mercer county belong chiefly to the lower series of the bituminous coal formation, having a gentle inclination towards the south-east, in consequence of which a greater variety of successive beds belonging to that formation are found overlying each other in the south- eastern part of the county, and successively cropping out and disappearing towards the north-west. Several beds of excellent coal, from two to six feet in thickness, extend over a large portion of the county, appearing along both sides of the Shenango valley and in various other places favourable for extensive mining operations. The completion of the Erie canal will afford the means of transporting this coal to Lake Erie, the state of New York and to Canada on the north, as well as to the Ohio and Mississippi on the south ; so that it is scarcely possible to predict the amount of busi- ness which must at no distant day arise from these favourable circum- stances.
Iron ore occurs in the neighbourhood of Georgetown; also on the Little Neshannock, and in various other parts of the county. Two blast furnaces 25*
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
have been erected for smelting the ore ; a number of cupola furnaces for castings, and a large rolling mill and nail factory which is doing an exten- sive business.
The principal stream is the Shenango, which passes through the western part of Mercer from north to south. Its chief branches are the Pymatuning, which enters on the north-west from the state of Ohio, and the Neshannock, flowing southward from the central part of the county. Mahoning river touches the south-western corner, and Slippery-rock creek the south-eastern. Numerous smaller streams, of sufficient power for mills and manufacturing purposes, water every part of the county.
Mercer, the seat of justice, occupies a nearly central position, and is beautifully situated on a plain near the Neshannock creek, on the turnpike road from Pittsburg to Erie, 60 miles north of Pittsburg. The town is handsomely laid out, having a public square in the centre, on which stands the court house, a large and substantial brick edifice. There is also a stone prison, an academy, and three churches. Many of the private dwellings and other improvements display considerable taste. Mercer is an incorpo- rated borough and contains about 800 inhabitants.
Newcastle is a flourishing town at the junction of the Shenango and Neshannock creeks, near the southern line of the county, 7} miles east of the Ohio state line and 18 south-west from Mercer, the county town. It contains four houses of public worship, a female seminary and two public school houses. The Beaver di- vision of the Pennsylvania canal forms a communication from this place to the Ohio river, and the Erie extension will afford a northern outlet to the lakes and the state of New York. It has already be- come the seat of considerable manufacturing operations, and has a rolling mill and nail factory, two iron foundries, a number of flour, saw, and oil mills, warehouses, stores and other establish- ments for manufactures and commerce. Population about 800.
West Greenville is a pleasant town on Shenango creek, in the north-western part of the county, 15 miles from Mercer. The Erie extension of the Pennsylvania canal passes through this place, which bids fair at no distant day to become the seat of ex- tensive business operations. It is surrounded by a fine agricul- tural district, and already contains seven or eight mills and manu- facturing establishments, driven by steam and water power.
Sharon is also on Shenango creek and the Erie canal, 16 miles west of the town of Mercer, and near the Ohio state line. It is a place of some business, having mills, warehouses and stores, and contains about 300 inhabitants.
There are many other thriving villages, the principal of which are Clarksville in the north-west, Georgetown in the north, New Bedford and Pulaski in the south-west, Middlesex in the west, North Liberty and Harlansburg in the south-east, and New Wil- mington, nine miles south-west from the county town.
The great staple production of agriculture is wheat, of which more than 300,000 bushels are annually produced. Large quan - tities of corn, oats, buckwheat and potatoes are also cultivated, and
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MIFFLIN COUNTY.
great numbers of live stock, such as horses, cattle and sheep, are raised here and driven to the eastern markets.
The assessed value of property, subject to county taxation in 1842, was $3,742,867; county tax $15,323; State tax $4,228.
Among the public improvements within this county, the most important is the Erie extension of the Pennsylvania canal, which passes along the Shenango valley through the whole length of the county, intersecting a fine agricultural region, abounding with in- exhaustible deposits of coal, iron ore, limestone and other valuable mineral productions.
The Pittsburg and Erie turnpike passes through the middle part of the county : common roads are numerous, and though much travelled, are not kept in as good order as those in the older settled parts of the State. Good bridges are built over the principal streams where crossed by the leading roads.
The inhabitants are generally a moral and industrious people, and a commendable degree of attention is paid to the means of promoting popular education, and the increase of general inform- ation and intelligence. The common school system is adopted in all the districts, 17 in number, and 214 schools are kept open for instruction during nearly six months in the year. There is an academy in the town of Mercer, and a female seminary at New- castle in which about 50 young ladies are instructed in the useful branches of female education.
Presbyterians and Methodists are the prevailing religious deno- minations, but there are numbers of other persuasions.
Mercer county was chiefly settled by emigrants from other parts of Pennsylvania ; but the population has been considerably aug- mented by Irish, English and German settlers.
What are the boundaries of Mercer county ? Describe the face of the country, and the nature of the soil. Mention the general advantages pos- sessed by this county. To what series do the rock strata belong ? What valuable mineral production is abundant ? Where is iron ore found, and what iron works have been erected ? What is the principal stream, and its chief branches ? Name the other streams Describe the county town. How is Newcastle situated, and what manufacturing establishments has it ? Where is West Greenville ? Sharon ? What other villages are men- tioned and how situated ? Mention the principal products of agriculture. What is the most important branch of the public improvements ? What is said of the turnpikes, roads and bridges ? What is the general character of the inhabitants, and the condition of education ? The principal religious societies ? By whom has the county been settled ?
38. MIFFLIN COUNTY.
Mifflin county has Centre on the north-west ; Huntingdon on the west and south ; Juniata on the south-east, and Union on the north east. Population 13,092.
The country is mountainous, having several lofty ridges extend- ing from north-east to south-west, separated by beautiful and fer- tile valleys. On the east are Shade and Black-log mountains ; near the middle is the high and rugged ridge of Jack's mountain ;
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
while the western boundary passes along Stone mountain, and then north-eastward by that complicated series of elevations known by the name of the Seven mountains, part of which are in Mifflin, and part in Centre.
The geological features of this county show abundant evidence of the disturbance which has affected the whole of our Appalachian region. The action of those mighty forces has produced alternate lines of elevation and depression, by which the rock strata are tilted in opposite directions, and successive formations exposed. The high mountain ranges already men- tioned contain the hard sandstone (IV,) which is the usual rock in most of the mountains in the middle part of the State. The valley between Shade and Jack's mountain is a basin or synclinal depression, in which the rocks dip in a direction towards the centre from both sides. We accordingly find the series of variegated and red shales (V) overlying the mountain sand- stones on both sides of the valley, and near the middle of it the limestone (VI) and the fossiliferous sandstone (VII,) forming a series of hills nearly midway between the two mountains. This limestone is seen on the Juni- ata at Lewistown. From Waynesburg (now called McVeytown) south- westward, the olive slate formation (VIII) extends to the Juniata at and above Newton Hamilton. In Kishicoquillas valley, on the contrary, an axis of elevation has brought up the lower limestone (II) to the surface, having around it a border of the overlying dark slate (III) near the base of the surrounding mountains. Iron ore is dug at various places in this val- ley, of the kind usually accompanying the same limestone in other parts of the State ; being the brown hydrated peroxide, occurring in cellular or compact masses, hematitic, or of the stalactite structure commonly called pipe ore. The fossiliferous band of ore contained in the slates and shales (V) above the mountain sandstone, is found in several places within the county, of sufficient thickness to be productive. It is mined on the south- east flank of Jack's mountain, and at some other points.
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