USA > Pennsylvania > A geography of Pennsylvania : containing an account of the history, geographical features, soil, climate, geology, botany, zoology, population, education, government, finances, productions, trade, railroads, canals &c. of the state : with a separate description of each county, and questions for the convenience of teachers : to which is appended, a travellers' guide, or table of distances on the principal rail road, canal and stage routes in the state > Part 3
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22
HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION.
Governors, Deputies, Presidents, &.c., of Pennsylvania.
1682, October, William Penn, proprietor, acted as Governor until
1684, August, Thomas Lloyd, President.
1688, December, Capt. John Blackwell, Deputy Governor.
1690, February, President and Council.
1693, April 26, Benjamin Fletcher, Governor.
June 3, William Markham, Deputy Governor.
1699, December 3, William Penn, again Governor.
1701, November 1, Andrew Hamilton, Deputy Governor.
1703, February, President, Edward Shippen, and Council.
1704, February, John Evans, Deputy Governor.
1709, February, Charles Gookin, Deputy Governor.
1717, March, Sir William Keith, Deputy Governor.
1726, June, Patrick Gordon, Deputy Governor.
1736, June, James Logan, President, and Council.
1738, June, George Thomas, Deputy Governor.
1747, June, Anthony Palmer, President.
1748, June, James Hamilton, Deputy Governor to June 1754. 1754, October, Robert Hunter Morris, Deputy Governor.
1756, August 19, William Denny, Deputy Governor.
1759, November 17, James Hamilton, Deputy Governor.
1763, October 31, John Penn, son of Richard Penn.
1771, May 6, James Hamilton, President, and Council.
October 16, Richard Penn, Governor.
1773, August, John Penn, second time Governor to September 1776.
Revolution.
1777, March, Thomas Wharton, Pres. of Sup. Exec. Council.
1778, October, Joseph Reed, do.
1781, November, William Moore, do.
1782, November, John Dickinson, do.
1785, October, Benjamin Franklin, do.
1788, October, Thomas Mifflin,
do
Governors under the Constitution of the State.
Elected, 1790, October, Thomas Mifflin.
Elected, 1817, " William Findlay.
1793, 66
do.
1820, " Joseph Hiester.
1796, 66
do.
1799,
Thomas Mckean. do.
1826,
1829, " George Wolf.
1805,
do.
1832,
66 do.
1808, Simon Snyder.
1835, " Joseph Ritner.
1811,
do. do.
1838, 1841,
" David R. Porter.
1814, 66
do.
1823, " John Andrew Shulze. do.
1802, 66
When, where, and by whom, were the earliest settlements made in Pennsylvania ? Under whose dominion did the territory afterwards fall by successive conquests ? What is said of William Penn ? By whom, and
23
HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION.
for what consideration was Pennsylvania granted to him ? What were the provisions of the charter ? At what rate did he offer the land to pur- chasers ? When and where did the first English emigrants land ? When did Penn himself arrive ? Where did the first assembly meet, and what laws did they pass ? At what place was a treaty made with the Indians, and what is said of it ? What is said of the beginning of Philadelphia ? From what countries did other emigrants arrive, and where did they settle ? When did Penn return to England and how did he leave the government ? What is said of his trouble and difficulties ? What change was made in the government, and when was it restored to him ? Relate the circum- stances of his second visit and his causes of trouble. What was his dispute with Lord Baltimore, and how finally settled ? What were the provisions of his new frame of government, and what was done by the three lower counties ? In what year did he return to England, how did he dispose of the government, and when did he die ? To whom did he leave his interest in Pennsylvania, and what was afterwards done with it ? What is said of the arrival of emigrants, and where did they settle ? When did Thomas and John Penn visit the province ? What is said of the administration of Governor Gordon ? What occurred on the breaking out of war between Spain and Great Britain ? What was the effect in Pennsylvania of the war between France and Great Britain, and what was done by Dr. Franklin ? Mention the subjects of dispute with the Indians about lands. What ex- tent of country was sold by them in 1749, and for how much ? And by the treaty at Albany in 1754 ? What was the consequence of this large grant of land ? Where were forts erected by the French ? Who was sent by the governor of Virginia to remonstrate with the French commandant ? What was done afterwards in consequence of the answer received ? Re- late the circumstances of Washington's expedition and surrender. In what year was the expedition of Braddock, and what were the events at- tending it ? Describe the circumstances of his defeat. What was the effect of this in Pennsylvania, and what outrages by the Indians followed ? What measures of defence were taken ? Relate the events of Colonel Arm- strong's expedition. What was done at the treaty of Easton, and what was the conduct of the western Indians ? Describe the circumstances of the expedition of General Forbes. When and by what cause did the war terminate ? What Indian troubles afterwards occurred ? Relate the parti- culars of the attack upon the friendly Indians near Conestoga. Who was now governor of the province, and why did the assembly resolve to change the government ? What was the feeling in Pennsylvania on the intention of the British government to tax the colonies ? When was the stamp act passed and what was the effect ? Describe on the map the extent of land purchased from the Indians in 1768. When was the remainder of the State purchased from them ? What led to the disputes with the settlers from Connecticut ? What occurred in consequence, and how was the matter finally settled ? On what subject was there a dispute with Virginia ? What was the consequence of the determination of the British government to tax the colonies ? Relate the circumstances attending the formation of the first State constitution. When was another constitution agreed upon, and how long did it remain in force ? What was done in 1836-7, in relation to amend- ing it, and when was the present constitution signed and adopted by the people ?
.
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
PART I .- OF THE STATE IN GENERAL.
1. BOUNDARIES, EXTENT, AND POLITICAL DIVISIONS.
PENNSYLVANIA is bounded on the north by New York and Lake Erie; on the east by the Delaware river, which separates it from New York and New Jersey; on the south by Delaware, Mary- land and Virginia; and on the west by part of Virginia and Ohio.
Its shape is almost a perfect parallelogram; its northern and southern sides being marked by parallels of latitude and its western by a meridian. It extends from 39º 42' to 42º 15' of north lati- tude, and from 2º 18' E. to 3º 32' W. longitude from Washing- ton, or from 74° 44' to 80° 34' W. from Greenwich, near London. Its length is about three hundred and ten miles and its breadth one hundred and sixty; containing nearly forty-seven thousand square miles, or 30,080,000 acres of land.
This State is divided into fifty-eight counties, the names of which are exhibited in the following table, with the section of the State in which they are situated, the dates of their formation, the several county towns, and their distance from Harrisburg, the seat of the State government.
Counties.
Situation.
When formed.
County toun.
Miles from Harrisburg.
Adams
South
1800
Gettysburg
34
Allegheny
West
1788
Pittsburg
200
Armstrong
West
1800
Kittaning
183
Beaver
West
1800
Beaver
230
Bedford
South
1771
Bedford
105
Berks
East
1752
Reading
52
Bradford
North
1810
Towanda
128
Bucks
Southeast
1682
Doylestown
107
Butler
West
1800
Butler
203
Cambria
Middle
1804
Ebensburg
131
Carbon
East
1843
Mauch Chunk
99
Centre
Middle
1800
Bellefonte
85
Chester
Southeast
1682
West Chester
75
Clarion
West
1839
Clarion
184
Clearfield
Middle
1804
Clearfield
129
Clinton
Middle
1839
Lock Haven
110
Columbia
Middle
1813
Danville
65
Crawford
Northwest
1800
Meadville
236
Cumberland
Middle
1750
Carlisle
18
Dauphin
Middle
1785
Harrisburg
-
Delaware
Southeast
1789
Chester
95
Elk
North
1843
-
3
25
26
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
Counties
Situation.
formed.
County toun.
Miles from Harrisburg.
Erie
Northwest
1800
Erie
272
Fayette
Southwest
1783
Uniontown
184
Franklin
South
1784
Chambersburg
49
Greene
Southwest
1796
Waynesburg
222
Huntingdon
Middle
1787
Huntingdon
90
Indiana
West
1803
Indiana
157
Jefferson
Northwest
1804
Brookville
165
Juniata
Middle
1831
Mifflin
43
Lancaster
South
1729
Lancaster
36
Lebanon
Middle
1813
Lebanon
24
Lehigh
East
1812
Allentown
85
Luzerne
Northeast
1786
Wilkesbarre
114
Lycoming
North
1795
Williamsport
87
M'Kean
North
1804
Smethport
200
Mercer
West
1800
Mercer
235
Mifflin
Middle
1789
Lewistown
55
Monroe
East
1836
Stroudsburg
120
Montgomery
Southeast
1784
Norristown
88
Northampton
East
1752
Easton
101
Northumberland
Middle
1771
Sunbury
52
Perry
Middle
1820
Bloomfield
36
Philadelphia
Southeast
1682
Philadelphia
100
Pike
Northeast
1814
Milford
157
Potter
North
1804
Coudersport
174
Schuylkill
Middle
1811
Orwigsburg
59
Somerset
South
1795
Somerset
143
Susquehanna
Northeast
1810
Montrose
163
Tioga
North
1804
Wellsboro
147
Union
Middle
1813
New Berlin
60
Venango
Northwest
1800
Franklin
212
Warren
Northwest
1800
Warren
240
Washington Wayne
Northeast
1798
Honesdale
165
Westmoreland
Southwest
1773
Greensburg
170
Wyoming
Northeast
1842
Tunkhannock
142
York
South
1749
York
25
Boundaries, Extent, &c.
How is Pennsylvania bounded ? Between what parallels of latitude and meridians of longitude is it situated ? What is its length and breadth ? Its area in square miles and in acres ? Into how many counties is it divided ?
2. FACE OF THE COUNTRY : MOUNTAINS, HILLS, &c.
THE surface of Pennsylvania presents a highly varied aspect, and the traveller who delights in changes of scenery will find much to admire as he passes through this State. The wild and rugged mountain, the woody hill, the fertile valley, the fruitful field and the verdant meadow, will claim his attention in endless and varied succession; forming a broad landscape of boundless variety and ever changing beauty.
There are few large tracts of level land in the State, and though the southeastern counties cannot be strictly termed hilly, yet the surface is undulating and variable. Some elevated ridges of trap
Southwest
1781
Washington
212
When
27
MOUNTAINS.
rock are found in the counties of Bucks and Montgomery, as also in Lancaster, York and Adams. The South mountain is the first range of any considerable magnitude in this portion of the State: it passes from the Delaware, below Easton, through Northampton, Lehigh and Berks; continuing between Lancaster and Lebanon, York and Cumberland, Franklin and Adams counties, to the Maryland line. Crossing the Potomac at Harper's Ferry, into Virginia, it is there called the Blue ridge. On the north of this chain we have a comparatively level valley of limestone, stretching entirely across the State, with a slate region on the north of it, which is more hilly.
Next to this the Kittatiny or Blue mountain lifts its long, regular and almost level crest line of summit, to the height of from seven hundred to twelve hundred feet above the level of the streams at its base. This ridge extends from the Delaware Water Gap to near Loudon, in Franklin county, where it terminates in a high pic- turesque elevation, called Parnell's Knob.
Parnell's Knob.
North of the Blue mountain, and between the Lehigh and Sus- quehanna, is the wild mountainous region where the anthracite coal is found. Here are high and barren ridges, in constant and close succession, stretching across this solitary and almost unin- habited waste, or winding around, and connecting with each other, as they enclose the long narrow pointed valleys. The Second and Sharp mountains are between the Kittatiny and the first coal basin ; then we have the Broad mountain, a huge irre- gular elevation, with a broad barren table land on its top, almost
28
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
destitute of timber, and presenting a fearful picture of wild sterility and desert solitude.
East of the Susquehanna are the high ridges known by the names of Peter's, Berry's, Bear, Mahontongo and Mahanoy moun- tains ; and further northeast, towards the Lehigh, are Buck, Spring, Green, M' Cauley's and Nescopeck mountains; the latter being prolonged nearly to the North branch of Susquehanna, is called, at its western end, the Catawissa mountain. Beside those already mentioned, there are other ridges and peaks, which may be more appropriately noticed in our description of these counties.
The valley of Wyoming is enclosed by a lofty chain of moun- tains, known by many local names: the principal are the Wyo- ming and Moosick on the east, and the Shickshinny, Shawney and Capous on the west.
That vast and complicated series of mountains which stretches between the Kittatiny or Blue mountain and the Allegheny, has been called the Appalachian chain. It consists of high and nearly parallel ridges, sometimes quite near to each other, and at other times having valleys twenty miles in breadth between them; these valleys themselves being frequently divided by smaller ridges.
West of the Susquehanna, and northwest of the Kittatiny, the first mountain which claims our attention is the Tuscarora, which ranges from the Juniata river along the northwest of Perry county, and thence southward, under the name of Cove mountain, into Maryland. Beyond this is the Shade mountain in Union and Juniata counties ; which, folding sharply round on the south, passes again back towards the Juniata under the name of Black Log mountain. Jack's mountain rises near New Berlin, in Union county, and, pursuing a southwestward course, crosses the Juniata below Huntingdon, and stretches southward nearly to Bedford county.
The long range called Sideling hill passes from Maryland northward through Bedford and Huntingdon counties, extending nearly to the Juniata, west of Jack's mountain, below the town of Huntingdon ; where, folding round the north end of Trough Creek valley, it passes again southward up the Raystown branch of Juniata, under the name of Terrace mountain. Between Side- ling hill and the Raystown branch is the broad elliptical irregular elevation called Broad Top, the summit of which is a wild broken region containing bituminous coal. This lies partly in Bedford and partly in Huntingdon counties. Further south are Harbour mountain, Ray's hill, &c.
Beyond Jack's mountain, on the west of Mifflin county, and north of Huntingdon, we have the Stone and Path mountains ; next to which is Tussey's mountain, running from the southeast of Centre county, and extending southward through Huntingdon and Bedford counties to the southern line of the State. Further northwest, in Centre county, are Brush, Nittany and Bald Eagle mountains. White Deer mountain forms part of the south line of Lycoming county.
29
MOUNTAINS.
The Bald Eagle mountain extends along the south side of the West branch of Susquehanna to the mouth of Bald Eagle creek, being there called Muncy mountain, and then up that stream on the southeast, reaching nearly to the Juniata, where it is again called Brush mountain. The same range proceeds by a winding course further southward into Bedford county, being known by different names, such as Canoe mountain, Lock moun- tain, and Dunning's mountain. Beyond these there is no import- ant ridge until we come to the great Allegheny, except in the southwest part of Bedford and the southeast of Somerset counties ; where we have some high ridges extending northward from Ma- ryland, west of Tussey's mountain, called Evits', Will's, Little Allegheny and Savage mountains.
That elevated range which extends nearly across the whole of the State under the name of the Great Allegheny mountain is not, like most of the others which we have described, a high bold ridge with a steep ascent on both sides. It is more properly the steep southeastern front or escarpment of a high table land, which, on the northwest and west, has a scarcely perceptible descent; being a high undulating surface, gradually declining westward. The Allegheny mountain is first perceptible on the North branch of the Susquehanna, about thirty miles above Wilkesbarre, where it is called Tunkhannock mountain. It then ranges westward through Luzerne and the north part of Columbia counties, being there called the North mountain ; passes through Lycoming county and crosses the West branch near Farrandsville, above the mouth of Bald Eagle creek. It is now known by the name of Allegheny, and passes through Clinton and Centre to the northwest corner of Huntingdon county. Still ranging on to the southwest, it forms the line between Huntingdon and Cambria, Bedford and Somerset counties, until, passing across the southeastern part of Somerset, it enters the state of Maryland.
Still west of the Allegheny we have, between Somerset on the east and Fayette and Westmoreland counties on the west, a high ridge called Laurel hill, which gradually sinks away on the north and terminates in Cambria county. Beyond this, coming into Fayette county from Virginia, is Chestnut ridge, sometimes erro- neously also called Laurel hill in its southern part near the State line. This ridge extends through Fayette and Westmoreland into Indiana county, where it also terminates on the north.
Most of the country west of the Allegheny mountain is hilly ; but the hills are abrupt and irregular-not owing to the disturb- ance or upheaving of great lines of rock strata, like the Appala- chian mountain ridges, but being caused principally by the action of the streams, which have worn deep ravines along their courses. Many of these hills are steep and precipitous, some of them several hundred feet in height, and the whole region is intersected in every direction by these deep channels and valleys of denudation. The rock strata appear along their sides in a nearly horizontal position, and it is a very common occurrence to observe a coal seam high in the hill side along one of these deep valleys, with its 3*
30
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
counterpart on the opposite hill at about the same height; thus showing conclusively that the valley has been worn down by the action of the waters.
Face of the country, mountains, &c.
What is said of the general face of the country in Pennsylvania ? Of that in the southeastern counties ? Describe the situation and extent of the South mountain. Of the Kittatiny or Blue mountain. What is the character of the country between the Lehigh and the Susquehanna ? What mountains are mentioned ? Name those east of the Susquehanna ;- and those towards the Lehigh. What mountains surround the Wyoming val- ley? What is the general name of the chain between the Blue mountain and the Allegheny ? Where is the Tuscarora mountain ? Shade ? Jack's ? Sideling hill ? Broad Top ? Stone ? Path ? and Tussey's mountain ? What mountains are in Centre county ? Describe the range of the Bald Eagle mountain, and by what names is it called further southward ? What ridges extend from Maryland into Bedford and Somerset counties ? Men- tion the principal features of the Allegheny mountain. Describe its extent from northeast to southwest. What are the two principal ridges west of the Allegheny mountain ? Describe the general character of the country west of the Allegheny. What has caused the deep channels between the hills ?
3. RIVERS.
THE waters of almost every spring and brook in Pennsylvania find their way to the ocean through one or the other of its three great rivers, the Delaware, the Susquehanna, and the Ohio. Some small streams in a few of the southern counties run through Maryland into the Potomac ; but only a very small portion of the state is drained by that channel. Most of our rivers and creeks have happily retained their original Indian names : a circumstance rather to be deemed fortunate when we consider the taste mani- fested by the early settlers in changing some of them to such names as Yellow breeches, Kettle creek, Bloody run, Bullskin, Big creek, Black hole and Bear wallow.
The Delaware received its present name from the English, being called by some tribes of Indians Poutaxat, and by others Makeris- kitton. This river rises in the state of New York, by several branches, which unite near the northeastern corner of Pennsyl- vania, and thence flowing southeastward, it forms the boundary line between this state and New York for about fifty miles to the northwestern corner of New Jersey. Here it turns southwest- ward, between Pennsylvania and New Jersey, and passes through the Blue mountain at the Delaware Water Gap. Here a magni- ficent view of sublime and grand natural scenery is presented. The mountain rising from one thousand to twelve hundred feet on either side, seems to have been torn asunder by the rushing waters, and towering rocky precipices rear their gray and naked summits almost perpendicular from the edge of the river. From the top of the mountain you see spread below you on the south, a bound- less extent of landscape, stretching as far as the eye can reach
31
RIVERS.
over the woody hills and cultivated plains of Pennsylvania and New Jersey, with the beautiful river in its winding and distant course gleaming in the sunlight like a broad band of polished silver. And this is but one of the many wild and magnificent scenes with which the interior of our State abounds. If those who quit, for a time, the toils of business in the city during the heat of summer, could consent to forsake their accustomed fashionable resorts at Cape May, Saratoga, and other crowded but uninteresting places, and take a ramble through the mountain re- gions of our own State, they would return with renewed health, gratified, delighted and improved by a more thorough knowledge of the beauties and resources of Pennsylvania.
Delaware Water Gap.
From the Water Gap the Delaware runs south ward to Easton, where it receives the Lehigh. Its course is then towards the southeast as far as Trenton, where it again bends to the south- west, and passing Philadelphia, reaches the line of Delaware State twelve miles above New Castle. From this to the Delaware bay it separates the states of Delaware and New Jersey. The length of this river is upwards of three hundred miles. The tide flows up it to Trenton, about one hundred and fifty miles from the sea. It is navigable for large ships to Philadelphia, for sloops to Tren- ton, and for boats nearly one hundred miles further ; but since the construction of the canal from Bristol to Easton, the trade by river boats has much declined. Above Trenton the river is obstructed by several rocky rapids, called falls; though when the water is high large quantities of lumber descend in rafts.
The principal streams falling into the Delaware from Pennsyl-
3:2
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
vania, are the Lackawaxen, the Lehigh, and the Schuylkill. The Lackawaxen is a small river which rises chiefly in Wayne county, and empties into the Delaware about twenty miles above the New Jersey line.
The Lehigh (Lechay of the Indians) is a wild, beautiful and rapid stream, flowing through a mountain region for many miles of its course, supplied by springs and lakes hidden in the deep and solitary recesses of the pine swamps and forests of Luzerne, Pike, and Monroe counties. Passing Mauch Chunk, its general course is southeastward to Allentown, in Lehigh county, where it turns abruptly eastward and flows along the northern side of the South mountain, until it meets the Delaware at Easton. Its length is about eighty miles. The coal and lumber trade on the improved navigation of this river is of great value and increasing importance.
The Schuylkill seems to have received its present name from the Dutch or Swedes : the Indians called it Manaiunk. It rises by several branches among the coal mountains of Schuylkill county, and flowing southeastward about one hundred and thirty miles, falls into the Delaware, five miles below Philadelphia. The tide flows up this river about six miles to the dam at Fair Mount wa- ter works, and it is navigable for vessels of considerable burthen to the western front of the city, where a large amount of coal is shipped.
The next great river of Pennsylvania, and the largest in the State, is the Susquehanna, which is formed by the union of two main branches at Northumberland. From this its course is south- ward to the mouth of the Juniata, where it turns a little more southeast and pursues a general course in that direction to the Maryland line, which it crosses, and empties into the Chesapeake bay below Havre de Grace. This river is diversified by many picturesque and beautiful little islands, and the scenery along its banks is of the most pleasing and varied character. Its breadth is very unequal, sometimes exceeding a mile, and then contracting between rocky cliffs to less than a quarter of a mile. The channel is much obstructed by rocky rapids, which prevent navigation except at high water. During the spring freshets, however, a vast quantity of lumber descends in rafts, and many arks laden with grain, flour, iron and other productions of the interior and northern counties.
The North branch of Susquehanna is formed by the junction of the East branch and Tioga rivers at Tioga Point, near the New York line. From this place its course is southeastward until it enters the Wyoming valley, ten miles above Wilkesbarre, where it receives the Lackawana, and turning to the southwest, continues that course to Northumberland.
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