USA > Pennsylvania > A geography of Pennsylvania : containing an account of the history, geographical features, soil, climate, geology, botany, zoology, population, education, government, finances, productions, trade, railroads, canals &c. of the state : with a separate description of each county, and questions for the convenience of teachers : to which is appended, a travellers' guide, or table of distances on the principal rail road, canal and stage routes in the state > Part 45
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The Tioga river runs northward from this county into the State of New York, and then turning to the east and south-east, re-enters Pennsylvania in Bradford county and unites with the North branch of Susquehanna. Cowanesque is a considerable stream in the north of the county, flowing eastward to the Tioga. In the south-west is Pine creek, running southward to the West branch of Susque- hanna. All these streams are navigable for rafts of lumber and arks at high water.
Extensive forests of pine, hemlock, oak, beech, sugar maple and other timber cover a large portion of the county. Lumber is the staple production and about 150 saw-mills are in operation for its manufacture. About 200,000 pounds of maple sugar, and 50 tons of pot and pearl ash are made annually. Agriculture is im- proving, and wheat, corn and other grains are successfully culti- vated: oats and potatoes thrive particularly well, the soil and climate appearing to be congenial to their growth.
Wellsboro is the seat of justice, situated nearly in the centre of the county, containing a population of about 400, and having the usual county buildings, such as court-house, prison, academy, &c., with several places of public worship.
The other towns and villages are small : the principal are Tioga, Covington, Blossburg, Lawrenceville, Elkland, Knoxville and Mansfield.
Common schools are established in nearly all the districts, 23 in number, of which 22 have accepted the law, and 20 made report to the superintendent in 1842, showing that there were then 126 schools in operation, the average number of months taught being 5} in the year. The academy at Wellsboro is reported to contain 135 pupils.
Of the various religious denominations, Methodists, Presbyterians and Baptists are most numerous. The religious and moral cha- racter of the population is improving; industry, sobriety and good order being now generally prevalent.
Tioga, like most of the northern counties, was settled chiefly by adventurers from the New England states, and the peculiar language, habits and manners of that people still prevail to a con- siderable degree among the inhabitants.
What are the boundaries of Tioga ? Describe the face of the country ? What is the quality of the soil ? What rock formations occupy most of the county ? What valuable minerals are found in the neighbourhood of Bloss- burg ? What works have been constructed in order to give value to the mineral products of this region ? Describe the course of Tioga river. Name the other principal streams and their direction. What is said of the
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
forests and the production of lumber ? State the amount of maple sugar and potash made. Mention the improvement of agriculture and its pro- ducts. Name the county town and how situated. What other places are mentioned ? What is said of the schools ?- Of the religious denominations and the moral character of the people ? By whom was the county prin- cipally settled ?
51. UNION COUNTY.
Union county has Lycoming on the north ; the river Susque- hanna on the east, separating it from Northumberland ; Juniata county on the south ; and Mifflin and Centre on the west. Popu- lation 22,787.
The White Deer mountain forms the northern boundary ; south of this is Buffalo mountain ; in the west is Jack's mountain, ex- tending half across the county; and in the south, Shade mountain, terminating a few miles west of the Susquehanna. The southern part is much broken by small ridges and ranges of hills, and with the exception of the bottom land along the Susquehanna and the small valleys of Middle creek, Musser's, and Klopperdahl, the soil is but of moderate quality. These valleys, together with Buffalo, White Deer and Dry valleys in the north, have principally a cal- careous soil of a very fertile character, and admirably adapted to agriculture.
The general geological character of the county may be understood front the following brief sketch. Shade, Jack's, Buffalo and White Deer moun- tains contain the hard sandstone (IV) usually found in the higher ridges of the Appalachian portion of the State. Between Jack's mountain on the south and Buffalo and White Deer on the north, is the overlying series (V) of red and variegated shales, containing bands of limestone, sandstone, and the fossiliferous iron ore : this formation extends to the West branch of the Susquehanna, spreading out over most of White Deer and Buffalo valleys, and also the valley of Penn's creek north of Jack's mountain. Folding round the end of Jack's mountain, it is seen along the southern side, ex- tending into Mifflin county. The same formation may be seen on both sides of Shade mountain, meeting at its eastern end and extending towards Selinsgrove. The limestone (VI) next above in order, is the rock of the limestone ridges which extend through the valley between Jack's and Shade mountain ; the upper portion being very silicious, and containing beds of chert or flint, the angular fragments of which cover the surface in many places. 'T'he coarse fossiliferous sandstone (VII) is scarcely seen in its pro- per place above the limestone, appearing to thin out towards the Susque- hanna. At Blue hill on the Susquehanna, opposite Northumberland, and extending for some distance both up and down the river, are the red and gray sandstones and shales of the formations (VIII and IX) next above those last mentioned ; their lower beds being bordered by the limestone ridges on the north and south of them, as they range south-westward. Another triangular territory is occupied by these slates and sandstones, extending on the Susquehanna from the limestone below Selinsgrove to that nearly op- posite Georgetown, and narrowing to a point south-westward.
'The red fossiliferous iron ore which is so abundant on Montour's ridge, in the neighbourhood of Danville and other places, is prolonged in the same range across the West branch into Union county, being found about the mouth of Turtle run. Its thickness, however, appears to diminish as we trace it south-westward : it is found at several other places in Union county, but not yet in sufficient quantity to be valuable. Some of the lower calca-
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UNION COUNTY.
reous beds of the olive slate formation (VIII) seem to be well adapted for furnishing a good hydraulic cement.
The West branch of Susquehanna washes the eastern side of this county to its junction with the North branch at the town of Northumberland, from which the Susquehanna continues to the southern line of the county. The other large streams are Penn's creek, flowing eastward nearly through the middle of the county ; Buffalo and White Deer creeks in the north ; and Middle and West Mahontongo creeks in the south ; all running eastward to the Sus- quehanna, and with their numerous branches affording water power for the many mills erected on their banks.
In describing the towns in Union county, it is proper to observe that most of them, like many others in different parts of the State, have two names, being called indifferently by either, thus pro- ducing by this absurd practice much confusion and embarrass- ment to strangers.
New Berlin (Longstown) is the seat of justice, situated on Penn's creek, rather in the eastern part of the county, having a popula- tion of nearly 700. The court house and county offices are of brick, the prison of stone; there are also two churches and two public school houses.
Lewisburg (Derrstown) on the West branch, at the mouth of Buffalo creek, is a flourishing town with upwards of 1200 inhabi- tants, and being the point whence much of the produce of the sur- rounding country is shipped on the West branch canal through a side cut leading to the town, is a place of considerable business.
Mifflinsburg (Youngmanstown) is in Buffalo valley, with a population of about 700; and Hartleyton is in the same valley, about 5 miles further westward. Selinsgrove is on the Susquehanna near the mouth of Penn's creek, which uniting with Middle creek, enters the Susquehanna by two outlets, and thus, with the river, encloses the island of Que, on which is a village called Charles- town, separated from the town of Selinsgrove by Back creek, or the united stream of Penn's and Middle creeks.
Middleburg (Swinefordstown), Swiftstown and Adamsburg are in the valley of Middle creek; and Freeburg (Stroupstown) in Klopperdahl, south-west of Selinsgrove. New Columbia is in the northern part of the county, on the West branch below the mouth of White Deer creek.
This is one of the finest agricultural counties in the State. Wheat and flour are the great staple productions ; indian corn, rye, oats, clover-seed, beef, pork, &c. are also sold annually to a considerable amount,-the soil of these fertile valleys yielding a large surplus beyond what is necessary to support the inhabitants. The culture of tobacco has been recently introduced upon the rich bottom land along the river, and is likely to prove profitable.
The manufactures, except for domestic use, are not important. There are some small woollen factories ; a forge on Penn's creek ; two or three iron foundries ; and a number of establishments for making carriages, wagons and farming implements
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
The value of property assessed for county taxes in 1842,. amounted to $6,115,066 ; county tax $6,820; State tax $8,814.
The Susquehanna division of the State canal extends along the eastern side of the county to Northumberland, where the tow-path crosses the West branch by a beautiful bridge, over which there is also a carriage way. The West Branch canal being on the east side of the river, a side cut extends from Lewisburg in this county to the pool formed by a dam in the river, and thus communicates with the canal.
A turnpike road extends from Lewisburg by Mifflinsburg, and Hartleyton to Aaronsburg and Bellefonte in Centre county ; being a link in the turnpike from Philadelphia to Erie, through Reading; Pottsville, Sunbury, Northumberland, Lewisburg, Bellefonte, Franklin and Meadville,-the only part of which now unfinished is from Sunbury to Lewisburg, a distance of nine miles. There are three bridges across the West branch of Susquehanna within the bounds of Union county ; the State bridge at Northumber- land, and two company bridges in which the State holds stock, one of them at Lewisburg and the other at Milton. Bridges have been erected by the county at most places where the principal streams are crossed by the main public roads.
Education has been much neglected. A large proportion of the inhabitants are Germans, who regard the cultivation of the soil as being of more importance than the cultivation of the mind ; and consider the accumulation of wealth more desirable than the ac- quisition of knowledge. The county contains 16 school districts, only 7 of which have accepted the law establishing the common school system. In the accepting districts 31 schools are reported as being in operation, which are kept open 5 months in the year.
This county was originally settled by people from Chester and Cumberland counties, and some from New Jersey. The fertility of the soil and the general excellence of the country for agricultural pursuits, soon attracted the German farmers to establish themselves in the rich valleys ; and at the present day they form a large por- tion of the population. The German language is common throughout the county, but the English is also understood and spoken when necessary, by nearly all the inhabitants of German descent.
There are nearly 30 places of public worship, belonging to va- rious religious societies, the most numerous of which are Presby- terians, Lutherans, German Reformed and Methodists.
How is Union county bounded ? Name the principal mountains. What is said of the face of the country, and the soil of the valleys. Describe the range of the principal rock formations. What is said of the red fossiliferous iron ore in this county ? What river runs along the eastern side ? Mention the other considerable streams. How is the county town situated, and what public buildings does it contain ? Where is Lewisburg, and what is said of its trade, &c .? What towns are in Buffalo valley ? Where is Selinsgrove ? What other places are mentioned ? What is said of the agriculture of this county, and its productions ?- of the manufactures ? Mention the canals in or adjacent to Union county. What turnpike road, and bridges ? To what may be attributed the neglect of education ? What is said of the common
359
VENANGO COUNTY.
schools ? By whom was the county originally settled ? What language is commonly spoken? Name the principal religious societies.
52. VENANGO COUNTY.
Venango county is bounded north-west and north by Crawford and Warren, east by Jefferson, south-east by Clarion, south by Butler and west by Mercer. Its population, exclusive of that por- tion now included in Clarion, is about 14,320.
The country presents an uneven surface, being intersected by deep and narrow valleys of fertile bottom land along the streams, with steep and often rocky hills ascending to the level of the roll- ing table land which extends between the streams. This upland is generally fit for cultivation, and much of it would be excellent for grazing.
The Allegheny river passes through the whole breadth of this county, having a course generally south-west to the town of Franklin, where it turns to the south-east and flows in a meander- ing direction to the southern limit of Venango. At Franklin this river receives the waters of French creek from the north-west, and 5 or 6 miles above, Oil creek empties into it from the north. Teo- nista is a considerable stream in the north-east, flowing south- westward to the Allegheny. All these streams are navigable for many miles for flat boats and rafts of lumber descending. A mul- titude of smaller streams water this region, among which are Sugar, Sandy, Scrubgrass, Hemlock, Rackoon and other creeks, whose waters are sufficient to propel any kind of machinery even in the driest seasons. Pure and limpid springs gush from the hills in abundance, and some are found having their waters impregnated with mineral substances.
Oil creek derives its name from the substance called Seneca oil, which rises in bubbles from the bed of the stream, and on reach- ing the top of the water these bubbles explode, leaving the oil floating on the surface. Though this oil is found in many places throughout the whole course of the stream, it is most abundant two or three miles from the mouth, where several of the owners of the land make a business of collecting the oil during the dry season, as it is most plentiful at low water. A dam of loose stones is raised a little higher than the surface of the water, 10 or 15 feet in diameter around those places where the oil rises ; an eddy is thus created inside of the wall which confines the floating oil, while the water passes freely between the loose stones. The oil is thus suffered to accumulate for one, two or three days, until it be- comes an inch or more in depth; a piece of flannel or blanket is then spread over it which absorbs the oil, and it is afterwards wrung from the cloth into a barrel or some other vessel. The wa- ter which may be raised with it is drained off through a small hole at the bottom of the vessel. From two to ten or twelve bar- rels are collected in a season by each of the proprietors ; the quan- tity depending upon the prevalence of dry weather and low water.
In the low grounds along this creek, oil may be obtained by dig-
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
ging to a level with the bottom of the stream, but when thus pro- cured it is not so pure and clean as that taken upon the surface of the creek. This mode of obtaining it has evidently been prac- tised by the Indians, or some other people, long before the white man set his foot upon the soil of this region. Places of four or five acres in extent may still be seen, where holes have been dug in the ground from six to twelve feet in diameter, close together, being yet from two to four feet deep, and having trees standing in many of them of upwards of 100 years' growth. On the settle- ment of this part of the country, some of the oldest Indian resi - dents were questioned respecting these excavations, but were un- able to give any information concerning them.
The medicinal qualities of this oil have been much extolled. Forty or fifty years ago it was sold at 16 dollars per gallon; but its present price in Pittsburg is from 75 cents to $1. It burns well in lamps, though it emits a heavy black smoke and a strong bituminous odour, which to many persons is disagreeable.
Venango county lies on the northern border of the great bituminous coal field, and valuable beds of coal occur in many places in the southern por- tion of its territory. In the slates and shales of the lower strata of the coal measures, nodular argillaceous iron ore is found in considerable quan- tity ; and numerous and valuable deposits of bog ore exist in other parts of the county. The productive developement of these mineral resources has already excited considerable attention, and 17 furnaces are in operation for the making of pig iron and castings from the ore of this region. Sand- stone admirably adapted to the construction of furnaces is abundant, and some varieties of it are proper for the manufacture of glass.
Franklin, the county town, is situated at the confluence of French creek with the Allegheny, and contains about 600 inhabit- ants. The court-house and prison are built of stone; there is also an academy and three churches,-one belonging to the Me- thodists, one to the Presbyterians,-the other was built for Episco- palians but is now occupied by Cumberland Presbyterians.
Utica, seven miles from Franklin, on French creek, has grist, saw, and fulling mills; an iron foundry, &c. Cooperstown, on Sugar creek, seven miles from Franklin, contains a woollen fac- tory where carding, spinning, weaving, fulling and dyeing are car- ried on ; also grist and saw mills. Sunville, Dempseytown, Per- rysville, Waterloo, Clintonville and Teonista are villages in dif- ferent parts of the county.
The agricultural productions are wheat, rye, corn, oats, buck- wheat, potatoes, &c. The soil is naturally favourable to the growth of grasses, such as timothy and red top: clover is also cultivated successfully.
Iron is the principal article of manufacture. Grist and saw mills are numerous, with some oil mills, and there are several establishments for the production of woollen goods, chiefly for home consumption.
Timber is abundant both in quantity and variety, consisting of various kinds of oak, chestnut, hickory, beech, sugar maple, wild cherry, poplar, black and white walnut, pine and hemlock.
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VENANGO COUNTY.
Assessed valuation of property in 1842, $1,219,595: county tax $6,310: State tax $1,459.
That division of the Pennsylvania canal called the Franklin line passes along the Allegheny river to Franklin, the county town, and thence extends up French creek to Meadville in Crawford county.
Several turnpike roads pass through Venango. It has about 26 miles of the Susquehanna and Waterford turnpike, which forms the nearest route from Harrisburg to Erie by way of Lewistown, Bellefonte, Clearfield, Brookville, Clarion, Franklin, Meadville and Waterford to Erie. Of the turnpike from Franklin to Butler and Pittsburg, it has 18 miles. The Franklin and Warren turnpike passes 24 miles through Venango. Franklin is 25 miles from Mercer, 25 from Meadville, 40 from Butler, 28 from Clarion and 51 from Warren,-all county towns of the adjoining counties.
Venango contains 17 school districts, all of which have accepted the provisions of the law regulating common schools. Instruction is given in 108 schools during an average period of about 4 months in the year ; a time much too limited to develope the bene- fits of the system. A considerable portion of the county being comparatively new, and thinly settled, we may hope for improve- ment in the means of education as the country becomes more populous.
Of the religious societies the Presbyterians and Methodists are most numerous : there are some Baptists, a few Mormons, and several others of various persuasions.
The territory of this county was originally included in West- moreland, and after the erection of Allegheny county it was within its limits, as were many of the neighbouring counties before their separate organization. Most of the lands at an early day were owned by companies, such as the Holland Land Company; and large tracts by John Nicholson and other individuals. A portion of the county was donation land granted to old soldiers, and another part was the property of the State. Settlements were en- couraged by the proprietors ; but many of the early settlers being merely " squatters," having no legal title to the lands claimed by them, were in process of time ejected by the rightful owners, and many fine farms were thus abandoned, the buildings and fences destroyed, and some parts of the county nearly depopulated. This, and other circumstances connected with the confusion and uncer- tainty of land titles, tended for a long time to retard the settlement and improvement of the county.
On the Allegheny river, at the mouth of Oil creek, is a beautiful and fertile tract of bottom land which formerly belonged to Corn- planter, the Seneca Indian chief. About sixteen years ago he sold it to some persons who erected a furnace and other works on it, and the once quiet abode of the Seneca chieftain is now converted into a bustling, noisy manufacturing establishment by the restless enterprise of the busy white man, who derives wealth from the bowels of the hills over which the Indian not long since chased the game which yielded him a scanty subsistence.
31
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
How is Venango bounded ? Of what description is the surface and soil ? What river passes through the county, and in what direction ? What large creeks empty into it ? Name some of the smaller streams. From what does Oil creek derive its name ? Where is this oil most abundant ? De- scribe the mode of obtaining it. What quantity is collected in a season ? In what other manner may it be procured ? What is said of ancient dig- gings along the banks of the creek ? What are the properties of the oil, and what is said of its price ? What valuable mineral productions abound in this county ? Mention the iron works in operation. To what useful purposes is a sandstone applied ? What is the county town, how situated, and what public buildings does it contain ? Where are Utica and Coopers- town, and what are their manufacturing establishments ? What villages are mentioned ? What are the agricultural productions and the character of the soil ? Mention the principal manufactures. What is said of the timber ? What canal is in this county ? Name the turnpikes. What is said of the schools ?- of the religious societies ? To what county did this terri- tory originally belong ? What circumstances retarded its settlement and improvement ? What is said of a tract of land which belonged to Corn- planter, an Indian chief ?
53. WARREN COUNTY.
This county is bounded on the north by the state of New York, on the east by the county of M'Kean, on the south by Jefferson and Venango, and on the west by Crawford and Erie. Popula- tion 9,278.
The general face of the country is hilly and broken, but not mountainous, and along the margins of the largest streams are extensive tracts of bottom lands of good quality. With the ex- ception of these bottom lands, the general character of the soil is that of a gravelly loam with some intermixture of clay, and of moderate fertility, though susceptible of improvement by cultiva- tion.
The climate is similar to that of the other northern counties. In January the mercury in the thermometer is sometimes as low as 15 or 20° below 0; and in summer as high as 95°. The mean annual temperature is about 50°. Winter usually sets in about the first of November, although the streams seldom freeze before the middle of December. Spring generally opens from the middle of March to the first of April.
Warren, the county town, is an incorporated borough containing 737 inhabitants, situated at the junction of Conewango creek with the Allegheny river. It contains a court-house, a jail, an academy, and two churches, one of which belongs to Methodists and the other to Presbyterians. Besides these public edifices there are also many well-built and handsome private dwellings. Co- lumbus, Youngsville and Pinegrove are the principal villages.
The Allegheny river enters this county at the north-eastern corner, and passing nearly through the middle of Warren flows south-westward into Venango. Conewango creek is a considerable stream, running southward from the state of New York, and emptying into the Allegheny at the town of Warren. Six miles below, the Brokenstraw creek also falls into this river from the westward. On both of these streams are numerous saw and
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