USA > Pennsylvania > A geography of Pennsylvania : containing an account of the history, geographical features, soil, climate, geology, botany, zoology, population, education, government, finances, productions, trade, railroads, canals &c. of the state : with a separate description of each county, and questions for the convenience of teachers : to which is appended, a travellers' guide, or table of distances on the principal rail road, canal and stage routes in the state > Part 29
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The Susquehanna river forms the entire western boundary of Dauphin county, flowing along it for a distance of about 45 miles. The other principal streams are the Conewago creek, which sepa- . rates this county from Lancaster on the south, Swatara, Paxton, Fishing, Stony, Clark's, Powell's, Armstrong's, Wiconisco and Mahontongo creeks ; the last dividing Dauphin from Northumber- land county on the north. All these streams, together with Ma- nada and Beaver creeks which flow southward into the Swatara, have mill improvements on them, and most of them afford a large amount of water power which is yet unemployed. The largest of these streams are the Swatara,. Clark's creek, Wiconisco, and Mahontongo. This county is well watered for agricultural pur- poses, containing, besides the creeks already named, numerous smaller streams in every part of it.
Few counties in the State present so great a variety of geological features as Dauphin ; for in it we find nearly, if not quite, all the rock formations, from the white sandstone which overlies the primary rocks, upwards to the coal. By referring to the article on geology in the early part of this work, the order and relative position of those formations will be perceived.
The Conewago hills, in the southern part of the county, are composed of trap rock : north of these we find the middle secondary red shale and sandstone, extending as far as the neighbourhood of Highspire on the Sus- quehanna, where it overlaps the great limestone formation of the Cumber- land valley (II). This limestone ranges from Lebanon county across Dau- phin to the Susquehanna ; its northern limit on the river being at the lower end of Harrisburg, and the line of junction between the limestone and slate passing thence eastward to the Swatara creek, north of Hummelstown, and so on to the Lebanon county line near Palmyra. Some belts of slate are
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contained within the range of this limestone, one of which may be observed passing from the Swatara west of Hummelstown, south of the poor house, and extending nearly to the Susquehanna.
North of the limestone is a broad slate formation (III,> having a hilly and rolling surface, which occupies the region between the northern limit of the limestone, and the southern base of the Kittatiny or Blue mountain. Some thin strata of limestone are found in certain parts of this slate range.
The rocks of the Blue mountain consist chiefly of the hard, compact, white, gray and reddish sandstone (IV) which lies next in order above the last mentioned slate, and which forms so many of the mountain ridges in middle Pennsylvania. On the northern slope of this mountain and in the valley between it and the Second mountain, are the red and variegated shales (V) with the overlying limestone (VI), the fossiliferous sandstone (VII,) the olive slate (VIII,) and along the south side of the Second mountain the red and gray sandstones and red shale (IX) next in position. In order to account for the small space occupied by so many formations, some of which in other parts of the State occupy of themselves a wide extent of country, it must be recollected that the strata here are nearly vertical, or in truth thrown rather beyond a vertical position, so that their order of superposi- tion is inverted, and the strata which really lie uppermost in place appear to dip steeply beneath those which are actually below them. Rock strata which are vertical can only occupy an area equal to their thickness, while those which approach the horizontal position, usually spread over a wide region.
The Second mountain is mainly composed of a coarse hard grayish sandstone (X) which is also found in Peters' Berry's and Mahontongo mountains ; all these being in fact but the same ridge which winds round and recrosses the county several times. The rock next in order is the bright red shale (XI) which underlies the coarse pebbly conglomerate next. below the coal bearing strata. This red shale is found encompassing all the anthracite coal fields, and from its softness and liability to decomposi- tion has been worn down so as usually to form valleys around the high sharp ridges which bound the coal basins. We accordingly find it extend- ing down the valley of Stony creek, between the Second and Third moun- tains, and folding round on the Susquehanna above the town of Dauphin, again following up the valley of Clark's creek, thus enclosing the coal field of the Third and Fourth mountains. Passing round the junction of Peters" and Berry's mountains on the east, it enters Williams' valley and stretches down Wiconisco creek again to the Susquehanna at Millersburg. The whole of Lykens' valley, which lies between Berry's and Mahontongo mountains, is of this red shale, the northern division of which extends up the valley of Pine creek into Schuylkill county, enclosing between it and the Williams' valley division, the Bear valley coal basin.
The Third and Fourth mountains are composed of the coarse conglo- merates and sandstones (XII) which immediately underlie the coal, and it is in the high narrow depression between these ridges that the coal of the " Stony creek coal region" is found. Owing, however, to the displace- ment consequent upon the highly upheaved position of the rocks below it, and to the crushing effect near the junction of the uniting ridges, the coal beds towards the western extremity of this basin are confused and uncer- tain. Further eastward the prospect is better, and excellent coal has been obtained, some of which is so soft and free burning as to approach the bituminous character.
The Big Lick and Bear mountains, in the north-eastern part of the county, are also of the cemented pebble or conglomerate rock, and in like manner enclose a coal basin, the western end of which extends into Dauphin county. This is commonly known by the name of the Bear valley coal region, the western point of which is at the junction of the two last named mountains, about twelve miles east of the Susquehanna. Most of the coal obtained from this valley has been mined at Bear gap, an opening in the Big Lick
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
mountain through which Bear creek flows southward towards Wiconisco creek. The mountains which bound the coal basin on the north and south are here about 750 feet in height above the level of Bear creek, and con- tain numerous coal strata which descend towards the centre of the narrow valley at an angle of about 45°. The gap made by the passage of Bear creek through the mountain has exposed the coal on both sides of the stream, and affords great facilities for mining it advantageously. One of the beds opened is eleven feet thick, two of seven feet, and others of less size. Several coal seams are known to exist here which have not yet been fully explored ; one has been ascertained to be 24 feet thick. Shafts have been sunk on the slope of the mountain north of the valley, and beds of 24, 12, 10, 8 and 7 feet of coal have been found there. The mining operations at Bear gap are carried on by a company ; and a rail road, 16 miles ·in length, has been constructed from the mines to Millersburg on the Susque- hanna. Here the coal cars are ferried across the river to the Pennsylvania. canal on the west side, and the coal discharged into canal boats, being chiefly transported to Baltimore by way of the Pennsylvania and T'ide-water canals. The completion of the Wiconisco canal, on the east side of the river, from Millersburg to the head of the Eastern division of the Penn- sylvania canal at Clark's ferry or Duncan's island, will greatly facilitate the coal trade from this region, offering a more convenient means of trans- portation, and one by which the troublesome necessity of ferrying the loaded cars across the Susquehanna may be avoided.
The limestone region, in the southern and south-eastern part of the county, has a rich and loamy soil which is highly productive. The slate formation, between this and the Blue mountain, is more hilly and less fertile ; but by proper improvement and the free use of lime as a manure, may be made a fine agricultural region. The flats along the Susquehanna are generally sandy. Several of the valleys in the middle part of the county are very narrow, and but little cultivated. Armstrong's and Powell's valleys, situated be- tween Berry's and Peters' mountains, belonging to the red shale and sandstone formation (IX) have a tolerable soil, and for eight or ten miles from the Susquehanna are generally settled and cul- tivated, though the surface is in many parts rough and hilly. The townships of Upper Paxton, Mifflin, Lykens and Wiconisco, lying in Lykens valley between Berry's and Mahontongo mountains, have mostly a red shale soil (XI,) and are thickly settled and well cultivated, producing good crops of wheat and other grain.
The climate is generally healthy, and the mean annual tempe- rature at Harrisburg is nearly the same as at Philadelphia. Win- ter sets in somewhat earlier, and spring opens rather later than in the neighbourhood of the city.
The principal town is Harrisburg, which is the seat of justice for the county, and capital of the State. The other towns and vil- lages are Middletown, Hummelstown, Halifax, Dauphin, Millers- burg, Highspire, Lingelstown, Gratztown, Berrysburg, and Wico- nisco.
Harrisburg is beautifully situated on the eastern bank of the Susquehanna, on a gently elevated plain between the river and Paxton creek. The public buildings belonging to the State occupy a commanding position on an eminence in the northern part of the town. The State House or Capitol is a large and handsome brick building, surmounted by a dome, and having a circular por-
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State Capitol at Harrisburg.
tico in front supported by six Ionic columns. The interior is con- veniently arranged : the first floor having a Senate chamber on the north, and a spacious hall for the House of Representatives on the south; between which is a large circular rotunda and stairease. On the second floor are apartments for the state library, canal commissioners, supreme court, and the committee rooms of the Senate and House of Representatives. At each end of the capi- tol are separate buildings for the State offices, constructed in a similar style of architecture. That on the north contains the Exe- cutive chamber, the offices of the secretary of the commonwealth and state treasurer; while that on the south is occupied by the surveyor general and the secretary of the land office. These public buildings stand in a large enclosure, planted with trees, and surrounded by a brick wall on which is a neat paling. The state arsenal is on the public grounds south of the capitol.
The county prison, lately erected, is a noble structure of the Gothic style, built of cut stone, and altogether affords an admira- ble specimen of prison architecture. Its interior arrangement is excellent and is planned with a view to the principle of separate confinement.
The other public buildings are a court house, a spacious market house, and nine churches, of which the Presbyterian, the Lutheran, and the German Reformed are large and commodious edifices.
Harrisburg is abundantly supplied with pure water from the Susquehanna river. This is raised by steam power into a reser- voir on an eminence north of the Capitol, from which the water is distributed throughout the town by means of iron pipes.
This town is rapidly increasing in extent and population. Many 20*
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
substantial and elegant private dwellings have been recently erected, and the general appearance of the place has been much improved. Population in 1840, 5,980.
Middletown is situated on the Lancaster turnpike, 9 miles south- east of Harrisburg. Population 756.
Hummelstown is on the turnpike from Harrisburg to Lebanon, 9 miles from the former place. It is situated in a highly fertile lime- stone tract, and is inhabited chiefly by Germans and their descend- ants : Population, 480.
Dauphin, Halifax, and Millersburg are towns on the Susque- hanna in the upper part of the county. Gratztown and Berrysburg are in Lykens' valley : and Wiconisco is at the Bear gap coal mines.
The agricultural productions of Dauphin are the same as those of the eastern and middle counties generally. Wheat and Indian corn are the principal, with rye, oats, buckwheat, potatoes, grass, &c. The forests afford a large supply of timber for fencing, fuel, the making of charcoal for iron works, &c .; but no great amount is manufactured into lumber. There are three furnaces and one forge for the manufacture of iron in this county, besides a steam rolling mill, and two air furnaces in Harrisburg. The principal mineral production is coal, of which a considerable quantity is sent to market annually, and on completion of some improvements now in progress will be materially increased.
During the season of navigation, most of the surplus produce of this county is sent to Baltimore by way of the Pennsylvania and Tide-water canals and Chesapeake bay; but when the navi- gation is suspended, much of it finds its way to Philadelphia by the Harrisburg, Lancaster, and Philadelphia rail roads. The produce of Lykens' valley generally finds a ready market at Pottsville.
The value of real estate, horses, cattle, &c., assessed for county purposes in 1842, was $10,039,407; county tax $30,948; State tax $13,146.
The Pennsylvania canal extends along the Susquehanna, from the southern extremity of the county to Duncan's island, where it crosses the river; one division continuing up the Juniata and the other up the western bank of the Susquehanna. The Wiconisco canal, not yet completed, extends from Clark's ferry to Millersburg, at the mouth of Wiconisco creek, a distance of 12 miles. The Lykens' valley rail road, a single track of flat rails, is constructed for the transportation of coal from the mines at Bear gap to the Susquehanna at Millersburg, 16 miles. The Harrisburg and Lan- caster rail road extends from Harrisburg to Dillerville, near Lan- caster, where it connects with the Philadelphia and Columbia rail road.
Turnpike roads lead from Harrisburg in various directions, to- wards York, Lancaster, Columbia, Lebanon, Clark's ferry and Carlisle ; these, together with the common roads, except in the more unsettled parts of the county, are kept in good order. Three noble bridges extend from this county across the Susquehanna. Two of these are at Harrisburg; one of them, erected by the
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DAUPHIN COUNTY.
Cumberland valley rail road company, is an elegant structure, having the rail road laid on the roof, and carriage ways beneath. The third is at Duncan's island or Clark's ferry, built by the State, having a tow path attached to the south side for the purpose of drawing canal boats across the river at that place. There are also several fine bridges across the Swatara, and other streams within the county.
The state of education among the people at large is not flourish- ing; but since the introduction of the common school system, the condition of the youth in this respect is rapidly improving. There are 17 school districts in the county, of which 11 have accepted the law establishing common schools. Ten of these districts re- ported to the superintendent in 1842, having 74 schools, which are kept open an average of 6₺ months in the year.
The Harrisburg academy is a well conducted institution, in which are taught Latin and Greek, the natural sciences, geogra- phy, English grammar, &c. The average number of pupils is 25, of whom 20 are pursuing classical studies. There are also some excellent private schools. Probably more than three fourths of the people of this county can speak the German language; half of them speak it generally ; but there are few who cannot speak En- glish also, and these are found principally in the upper part of the county.
Dauphin was originally a part of Lancaster, and was first settled by Irish and Scotch emigrants. The Germans followed, and their descendants now occupy most of the county. The first clergyman settled in this part of the country was John Elder, a Scotchman, who preached for 56 years in the Paxton church, about two miles from where Harrisburg now stands. He wielded the sword of the flesh as well as that of the spirit, and held for several years a colonel's commission in the ,provincial service; commanding the stockades and block-houses that extended from the Susquehanna to the Delaware at Easton. It is said that he often carried his rifle into the pulpit, and his congregation were prepared in the same way against attacks from the Indians. About the year 1756, the church was surrounded by the savages so closely that, as was afterwards learned from an escaped prisoner, the rifles in the church were counted by the Indians ; but as there appeared to be too many of them, the savages went off without molesting the congregation. In the year following, the congregation were at- tacked after they had dispersed, and two or three were killed and others wounded. The farmers were in the habit of carrying their rifles into the fields with them for their protection while at work.
A number of those who were called friendly Indians were in the habit of coming down among the settlements of the whites about the beginning of summer. They remained in small parties about the country until towards winter, making baskets and pursuing other Indian avocations. When they went off there were generally some murders committed, supposed to be by them on their route ; but the perpetrators could never be identified. It was a succession of outrages of this kind that led to the expedition of the " Paxton
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
boys," which resulted in the murder of a considerable number of the Indians who were placed for protection in the jail at Lancaster.
John Harris, the father of the founder of Harrisburg, fixed his habitation at an early day on the bank of the river, near the pre- sent lower end of the town. He traded extensively with the Indi- ans, sending his skins and furs to Philadelphia on pack horses, and bringing back such articles of merchandise as were desirable to the savages. He also engaged in agriculture, and is said to have been the first person who introduced the plough on the banks of. the Susquehanna. This enterprising pioneer of civilization was, however, frequently in danger. On one occasion a company of Indians came to his house, on their return from a trading excur- sion, many of them being intoxicated. They asked him for rum, but were refused, as he feared mischief if they should obtain more. Enraged at his refusal, they seized and tied him to a mulberry tree on the bank of the river to burn him alive. During their proceed --
John Harris rescued by the friendly Indians.
ings a band of friendly Indians in the neighbourhood, to whom the alarm had by some means been given, came to his rescue, and he was released after a severe struggle between the parties. In re- membrance of this event, he afterwards directed that on his death he should be buried under the tree where this adventure occurred. He died about the year 1748, and according to his request was bu- ried under this memorable tree, where his remains still repose, together with those of some of his family. Part of this tree is yet standing, and is enclosed in a grave yard 15 feet square, the title to which is secured by conveyance from the commissioners who laid out the town.
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DELAWARE COUNTY.
A son of this John Harris, also named John, became the pro- prietor of a large tract of land, on part of which Harrisburg now stands. During his time " Harris' ferry" became a noted place, and it is said that twenty years before the town was laid out, he predicted that it would become the centre of business in this part of the country, and would some day be the seat of government of Pennsylvania. Accordingly, when the town was laid out in 1785, he conveyed to the commissioners four acres of ground on the hill where the Capitol now stands, "in trust for public use, and such public purposes as the legislature shall hereafter direct."
The act for establishing the seat of government at Harrisburg was passed February 21, 1810; and the offices and public docu- ments were removed from Lancaster in October, 1812. -
By what counties is Dauphin bounded ? What portions are level, hilly, and mountainous ? Describe the situations and extent of the several moun- tains mentioned. What river is on the west ? Name the other principal streams. What geological formations occupy the southern part of this county ? Describe the range of the limestone. Of the slate. What are the rocks of the Blue mountain ? What between this and the Second mountain ? In the Second and other mountains ? In what valleys is the red shale (XI) found ? On what mountains is the pebbly conglomerate rock ? Describe the situation of the Stony creek and Bear valley coal ba- sins ? What is said of the coal beds at Bear gap ? How is this coal con- veyed from the mines to the canal ? What is the character of the soil on the limestone and slate ? Of that on the other formations ? What is said of the climate ? Name the principal towns. How is Harrisburg situated ? Describe the state capitol ;- the county prison. What are the other public buildings ? How is the town supplied with water ? What is said of its improvement in extent and population ? Where is Middletown ? Hummelstown ? Dauphin ? Halifax ? Millersburg ? What towns in Ly- kens' valley ? Where is Wiconisco? What are the productions of agri- culture ?- of the forest ? What iron works in the county ? What is the principal mineral production? By what way are the surplus productions sent to a market ? What canals are in the county ?- rail roads ?- turn- pikes ?- bridges ? What is said of the condition of education ?- of the common schools ?- of the Harrisburg academy ? What proportion of the inhabitants speak German ? Of what county was this originally a part, and by whom settled ? Who was the first clergyman, and what is said of him ? Relate some of the troubles which occurred with the Indians. Where did John Harris settle, and in what business was he engaged ? What was done to him by a party of Indians ? How was he released from them ? Where was he afterwards buried, according to his own direction ? What is said of his son John, the founder of Harrisburg ? What land did he give for public use ? When did Harrisburg become the seat of govern- ment ?
21. DELAWARE COUNTY.
Delaware is bounded on the north-east and east by the counties of Montgomery and Philadelphia; on the south and south-west by the river Delaware and state of Delaware; and on the west and north-west by the county of Chester, to which it originally be- longed, having been erected into a separate county under the name of Delaware in 1789.
It is the smallest county in the State except Philadelphia ; con-
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
taining but about 177 square miles, or 114,281 acres of land. Po- pulation 19,791.
The face of the country is generally hilly or undulating, except near the river, where there are large tracts of level meadow, very valuable for grazing or pasturage.
The geological formation of this county belongs to the primary class, with some variations of metamorphic and igneous character. Gneiss and mica slate are the prevailing rocks ; modified in some places by the in- fluence of trap and other injected matter. In Upper Providence and Rad- nor townships there are beds of serpentine. Vast quantities of stone for building and other uses are quarried in this county : the rock principally used for this purpose is a gray granitic gneiss, which being found near the tide-waters of the several creeks, is easily transported to Philadelphia and other places. A whetstone, peculiarly adapted to sharpening scythes and shoe-makers' and saddlers' knives, is found on Darby and Crum creeks, from which a supply of this article for nearly the whole United States is furnished.
The soil of Delaware county, being derived chiefly from the disintegration of primary rocks, is not naturally of the most fertile character ; but by careful attention to its improvement by judicious culture, and the use of lime, gypsum and other manures, it has been rendered so productive as to be surpassed by few counties in the State.
Besides the river Delaware which forms part of the southern; and the Brandywine, part of the western boundary of this county, there are several other considerable streams which are navigable to the head of tide-water. Chester, Ridley, Crum and Darby creeks, all rising in Chester county and flowing southward to the river Delaware, pass across the whole breadth of Delaware county. In addition to these are Cobb's, Green's, Marcus Hook, Naylor's run, Gulf, and several other small creeks. These streams furnish water power for a great number of mills and manufacturing establish- ments which are in operation. The county abounds in excellent springs, which water every farm and almost every enclosure.
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