USA > Pennsylvania > A geography of Pennsylvania : containing an account of the history, geographical features, soil, climate, geology, botany, zoology, population, education, government, finances, productions, trade, railroads, canals &c. of the state : with a separate description of each county, and questions for the convenience of teachers : to which is appended, a travellers' guide, or table of distances on the principal rail road, canal and stage routes in the state > Part 44
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The face of the country is varied, being in some parts moun- tainous, in others hilly,-a considerable portion is rolling and un- even, while some tracts have a comparatively level surface. There is also considerable variety in the character of the soil: the south- ern part of the county being generally considered the best for the growth of wheat and indian corn, while the middle and north pro- duce good crops of oats, potatoes and grass. The whole county is well adapted to grazing and the keeping of cattle and sheep; there are many extensive dairy farms which produce large quan- tities of excellent butter.
The Allegheny mountain forms part of the eastern boundary of Somerset, and then ranges through the south-eastern part of the
348
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
county. In the south-eastern corner, the Little Allegheny and Savage mountains pass northward from Maryland and unite in a point near the Bedford county line, north of Wills' creek. In the south, Negro mountain extends northward from the state line and terminates a few miles south of the town of Somerset. The high ridge called Laurel hill is the western boundary as far south as to the Youghiogeny river.
Nearly the whole of Somerset belongs to the bituminous coal formation, and is separated into several basins by anticlinal axes, or lines of elevation along the mountain ridges, which bring up the rocks below the coal in these elevations, where the strata may be seen in the form of an arch, dipping on each side towards the centre of the basins between the ridges. In the gaps made by the passage of the larger streams through these mountains, the red shales and sandstones (XI) next below the pebbly conglomerate (XII) are seen, containing in many places a valuable bed of limestone, which sometimes contains impressions of shells, encrini, and other fossils. The conglomerate rock is usually found along the sides of the mountains, some- times extending to the summits; and along the base the lower coal beds appear above it as it dips beneath them.
In the rough irregular valley between the Little Allegheny and Savage mountain, the Cumberland or Frostburg coal basin extends northward into Pennsylvania, being about 5 miles wide on the state line, and terminating in a point near Wills' creek, six or seven miles from the line. The upper coal bed is here about eight feet thick, occupying a position near the sum- mit of a high ridge which extends nearly through the middle of the valley. It has been worked in several places, and yields coal of a very superior quality. Below this are a number of other coal seams from three to five feet thick, which show their outcrops in different places in the valley. Iron ore also occurs in the slates and shales between the coal beds.
The belt of country between Savage mountain and the Great Allegheny is occupied by red shale and sandstone rocks. Between the Allegheny and Negro mountains is another coal basin, extending northward by Ber- lin to the head waters of Shade creek, and thence into Cambria county. On some of the higher ridges in the southern part of this basin, we find a bed of coal nine feet thick, which is supposed to be identical with the great seam in Ligonier valley and with that worked at Pittsburg. This is the highest coal seam in the basin, and below it are several others, which though not equal to it in magnitude, are of sufficient thickness to be profitably worked. Several strata of good limestone occur between the coal beds; and about the falls on Elk-lick creek and in several other places are pro- mising indications of iron ore. In the neighbourhood of Berlin, several of the lower coal beds are worked for the supply of the town and its vicinity, being here from three to five feet thick, accompanied by iron ore and an impure limestone. Further northward, on Stony creek, in the neighbour- hood of Stoystown, and on Shade creek, are innumerable openings into productive coal beds; but the demand for coal in this region being limited merely to the inconsiderable supply required for domestic consumption, but little has yet been done towards developing the extent of its mineral wealth. Not far from the mouth of Wells' creek, and in the same neigh- bourhood on Stony creek, are localities of iron ore which may prove valu- able and important. Ore is also found in considerable quantity on Shade creek, where a furnace has been erected for the purpose of working it. Bog ore frequently occurs in beds on the surface along the eastern side of this basin, on the western slope of the Allegheny mountain.
In the western coal basin of the county, between the axis of Negro mountain and that of Laurel hill, though we do not find the great upper coal seam seen on the highest hills in the basin on the east, and also in Ligonier valley on the west ; yet so numerous are the outcrops of the lower
349
SOMERSET COUNTY.
beds in the hills along Castleman's river, Laurel hill creek, and other streams in different parts of the basin, as to show the abundant and inex- haustible character of the coal deposits in this part of the county. Iron ore is abundant in many places along the east side of Laurel hill, and has been mined near the head of Garey's run for the supply of Fayette furnace, on Indian creek, west of Laurel hill.
The Youghiogeny river, flowing northward from Maryland, forms the western boundary of this county as far as to its passage through Laurel hill, above which it receives the waters of Castle- man's river from the east, and of Laurel hill creek from the north. The union of these three streams at the same point is called the " turkey foot" from their fancied resemblance to the three toes of a bird's foot, and Turkey-foot township has been so named from this circumstance. Elk-lick and Buffalo creeks are tributaries of Castleman's river; Cox's creek flows southward to the same river from near the town of Somerset. Stony creek is a large stream, rising in the eastern part of the county, and flowing northward to the Conemaugh at Johnstown. Shade creek rises by numerous branches in the wilderness region on the west of the Allegheny mountain, in the north-east of the county, and running westward empties into Stony creek. Quemahoning is also a branch of Stony creek, in the north, flowing north-eastward from the foot of Laurel hill. In the south-east are the head waters of Wills' creek, a branch of the Potomac. Near the summit of the great Alle- gheny, north-east of Berlin, are springs within a short distance of one another, the waters of which find their way to the ocean through the Susquehanna, by way of the Raystown branch and the Juniata ; through the Potomac, by way of Wills' creek; through the Ohio by both of its branches, the Monongahela by way of Buffalo creek, Castleman's river and the Youghiogeny,- and the Allegheny, by way of Stony creek and the Conemaugh.
Somerset, the county town, has a nearly central position, and is situated on the turnpike from Bedford to Mount Pleasant, Wash- ington, and Wheeling. It has about 650 inhabitants, and con · tains a court house, county offices, prison, academy and several churches.
Berlin, eight miles south-east of Somerset, is an incorporated borough, with upwards of 500 inhabitants. Smythfield (Somer- field P. O.) is a village on the east side of the Youghiogeny, where that river is crossed by the National turnpike. Four miles east of this, on the National road near the Maryland line, is Petersburg (Addison P. O.) also a considerable village. Stoystown, a borough with a population of 357, is near Stony creek, on the Bedford and Pittsburg turnpike. The other principal villages are Jennerville in the north-west, Milford in the west, and Shanksville in the east.
The agricultural products are wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, corn, potatoes, flax, wool, &c. Great numbers of cattle and sheep are reared by the farmers, and large quantities of excellent butter from this county are sent to the eastern cities for sale. Nearly 300,000 pounds of maple sugar are made annually. On Stony creek is a furnace and a forge for the manufacture of iron ; and other branches
30
350
GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
of manufactures are established in different parts of the county, chiefly for the production of articles for domestic use.
Owing to the elevated position of this region the winters are usually severe; but the climate is remarkable for its general salu- brity. The summers are much cooler than in counties but little above the tide level : frost is not uncommon in June and early in September.
Three of the leading turnpike roads from east to west pass through Somerset county. The National road crosses the south- western corner ; the turnpike from Bedford to Mount Pleasant, &c., passes through the middle; and in the north is the main turnpike from Philadelphia by Harrisburg, Chambersburg, Bedford and Greensburg to Pittsburg. There is also a turnpike leading south- eastward from the town of Somerset, by Berlin, to Cumberland in Maryland, from which point a rail road extends to Baltimore.
The general condition of education is not very flourishing, but is believed to be in a state of gradual improvement. Some parts of the county are thinly settled and schools are not easily main- tained. There are in all 18 school districts, of which 12 have ac- cepted the provisions of the common school law, and 9 have made report, showing that they have 56 schools established, and that the average time of instruction is little more than 4 months in the year.
A large proportion of the population is of German descent, mostly from the eastern counties ; and the German language is commonly spoken. In the southern and south-eastern townships are numbers of inhabitants who speak little or no English. They are generally a plain, frugal, industrious people, obedient to the laws, minding their own business, and attentive to their moral and religious duties.
How is Somerset bounded ? What is the character of the surface ?- of the soil ? To what purpose is it adapted ? Describe the mountains on the east and south-east,-in the south and west. To what geological forma- tion does most of this county belong ? How is it separated into basins ? What rock formations appear in the mountain ridges? Describe the coal beds in the basin between Little Allegheny and Savage mountains. What other valuable mineral occurs here ? What rocks occupy the region be- tween Savage mountain and the Great Allegheny ? Describe the coal ba- sin between Allegheny and Negro mountains. What is said of the coal beds in this basin ?- of the limestone and iron ore ? At what different places are all these valuable mineral products found ? What is said of the western coal basin of the county ? Where is iron ore abundant ? What rivers are in this county ? From what is Turkey-foot township named ? What creeks empty into Castleman's river ? Which are tributaries of the Conemaugh ? Into what river does Wills' creek empty ? What is said of the various courses to the ocean, of streams rising on the Allegheny near Berlin ? How is Somerset, the county town, situated ? Mention the other principal towns, and their situation. What are the chief products of farm- ing industry ? What is the amount of maple sugar made in a year ? What is said of the manufactures generally ? Describe the climate. What three turnpike roads cross the county ? What is the general condition of educa- tion ; number of schools, &c .? What people compose most of the popu- lation ; and what is said of their language, and their character for industry and morality ?
35
SUSQUEHANNA COUNTY.
49. SUSQUEHANNA COUNTY.
Susquehanna county adjoins the state of New York on the north ; Wayne county on the east ; Luzerne and Wyoming on the south ; and Bradford on the west. The number of inhabitants in 1840, was 21,195.
The surface is hilly and uneven, approaching to mountainous in the eastern part; but the hills are in general neither high nor precipitous, being chiefly ridges extending between the streams, and susceptible of cultivation on their sides and summits. Elk mountain, in the eastern part of the county, is the most elevated point of land in north-eastern Pennsylvania; its summit being about 2000 feet above the level of the sea. From the top of this mountain is afforded a most extensive and magnificent prospect of the surrounding country, embracing not only the whole of this county, with its broken and irregular surface of hills and dales,- its variegated forests and cultivated fields, its meandering streams and glistening lakes ; but all the surrounding region from the bold sweep of the Susquehanna river on the north and west, to the Blue ridge and the towering Kaatskill on the south and east.
In the north-eastern part of the county, bordering on the Sus- quehanna, there are some ridges of waste and sterile land ; but in general, though there is little of that level and highly fertile soil which abounds in other parts of the State, yet there is little waste land that may not be cultivated for grain or grass, and much that may be rendered productive to a considerable degree.
The geological features of this county are remarkably simple and uni- form. In the northern part are the upper strata of the olive slate formation (VIII,) containing layers of grayish sandstone, and some slightly calcareous bands of rock which are filled with impressions of shells and various other fossil remains. In Choconut township, in the north-western corner of the county, is a bed of rock 10 or 12 feet thick, so calcareous as to yield a rough gray lime when burned, which may prove useful for agricultural purposes. The rock strata in the northern part of the county have a very gentle gene- ral inclination towards the south, and in that direction pass beneath the overlying red shales and reddish and grayish sandstones (IX) of the next superior series, which extend in nearly horizontal strata of thin, flat layers, over nearly the whole of the middle and southern parts of the county. The south-eastern corner, being near the northern point of the Lackawana coal basin, probably contains some of the higher formations approaching the coal series ; but if the county reaches far enough in this direction to include any portion of the coal basin, it must be of very limited extent.
The North Branch of the Susquehanna river enters the north- eastern corner of this county, and making a short turn at the Great Bend, returns by a north-western course again into the state of New York, where it takes a circuitous sweep around to the west and south, returning again into Pennsylvania in Bradford county, a few miles west of the north-western corner of Susquehanna. The south-eastern portion of the county is mostly drained by Tunkhannock creek and its tributaries, Martin's creek, Hopbottom, &c., flowing south-westward to the Susquehanna. In the north are Sult-lick, Snake and Choconut creeks; in the west, Wyalusing with
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
its numerous branches ; and in the south-west the Meshoppen. All these, with numerous other streams, afford plenty of good mill seats, and every part of the county abounds with clear, cold springs and brooks of excellent and pure water.
The varied and romantic beauties of the natural scenery in this county are much improved by the number of small lakes which are found in almost every township, and whose crystal waters, gleaming in the light of the setting sun, like polished mirrors amidst the dark shadows of the surrounding woods, give life and brilliancy to the picture. On the margin of one of these beautiful sheets of water, called Silver lake, 8 miles north of Montrose, is the elegant mansion of the late Dr. Rose, one of the early settlers of the county, an extensive landed proprietor, who aided much in bringing this region into notice, and promoting its rapid settlement.
A number of the streams are precipitated over high ledges of horizontal rocks and form waterfalls of remarkably picturesque and beautiful appearance. Silver creek, on its passage through a high ridge into the valley of Snake creek, forms a succession of cascades, some of which are 50 feet high ; and at the foot of the lower fall the banks rise precipitously from the stream to the height of 200 feet, fringed at the top and on each side with tall hemlocks, forming a singularly wild, deep and dark romantic glen, into which the cheerful light of day scarcely finds an entrance. On Cascade creek, in Harmony township near the Great Bend of Susquehanna, is a beautiful waterfall which is frequently visited by the ad- mirers of wild and picturesque scenery. The stream falls about 30 feet over a ledge of rocks, the horizontal strata presenting a series of regular gradations like the steps of an elevated portico. Near this, another stream precipitates itself from an elevation of more than 100 feet, and is converted into glittering spray long be- fore it reaches the bottom.
The climate, though subject to considerable extremes of heat and cold, is esteemed as being remarkably healthy. At Silver lake the mercury in winter sometimes falls to 15 or 20° below zero, and in summer rises to 94º. The elevated position of the country ren- ders it liable to some high winds and violent storms, as well as sudden changes of temperature. The winters usually last from the middle of November until the beginning of April ; but when spring opens the progress of vegetation is rapid : the summer air among the hills is peculiarly delightful and salubrious.
Montrose, the county town, occupies a nearly central position, and is situated at the intersection of several important turnpikes and mail routes, where daily stages meet from the north and south, and from the east and west. The streets are wide and commodious, but owing to the unevenness of the ground, are somewhat irregu- larly laid out. The public buildings are a court house, a stone fire proof edifice for county offices, a bank, an academy and four houses for public worship. The houses are generally built of wood ; mostly painted white and presenting a neat appearance ; the whole place, as has been frequently remarked, much resembles a New England country village. The number of inhabitants is about 700.
353
SUSQUEHANNA COUNTY. .
Dundaff, in the south-eastern corner of the county, is an incor- porated borough with upwards of 300 inhabitants. New Milford and Great Bend are villages in the north; Friendsville in the north-west; Springville in the south, and Harford in the south- east.
Agricultural pursuits form the prevalent occupation of the in- habitants and employ the greatest portion of the population. The soil and climate seem to be peculiarly adapted to the growth of oats and potatoes, of which large and superior crops are produced. Wheat and rye succeed best on newly cleared lands ; indian corn is raised to some advantage in certain situations, but in general is not so successful as other crops. As a grazing country, for the rearing of cattle and sheep, Susquehanna county is exceeded in natural advantages by few portions of the State. Increasing at- tention is given to the making of butter and cheese; there being already a number of thriving dairy farmers established here from Orange county, New York. They, with the frugal and thrifty settlers from New England, will soon render this county famous for its butter and cheese. Wool growing has become an import- ant branch of business; the number of sheep kept in the county being upwards of 72,000, from which more than 121,000 pounds of wool are annually produced.
Sugar maple trees are abundant in the forests, and sugar is ex- tensively manufactured. In 1840 the product of this article was 252,137 pounds. The other most common kinds of timber are hemlock, beech, birch, cherry, chestnut, ash, bass-wood, &c. Oak is most common on the hills about the river. Pine grows along the river and larger streams, from which lumber is produced to some extent : this, together with the oak, cherry, curled maple, &c., annually sent to market, is estimated to be worth $40,000. The lumber finds a market chiefly by the Susquehanna and Dela- ware rivers; cattle and sheep are driven to New York and New Jersey for sale; the surplus products of agriculture are sold to a considerable amount at Carbondale for the support of the nume- rous population about the coal mines at that place.
The assessed value of real and personal property, subject to county taxation for 1842, was $2,522,362: county tax $7,716: State tax $2,980.
There are no canals or rail roads in the county, though the North Branch division of the State canal on the south, and the Chenango canal on the north, approach sufficiently near to benefit the trade of the county when they shall be completed. The great New York and Erie rail road will pass near on the north, if not ul- timately laid through part of this county ; permission for which has been granted by the legislature. Several turnpike roads cross the county in various directions. One in the north-east, from Belmont to Harmony, and another from Belmont to Great Bend. One through the county from south-east to north-west, passing from Carbondale through Dundaff and Montrose to Owego on the Sus- quehanna ; which is intersected at Montrose by the turnpike from Wilkesbarre, through Tunkhannock, &c. Beside these there are 30*
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GEOGRAPHY OF PENNSYLVANIA.
some others either completed or partly constructed between differ- ent points.
In this, as in others of our northern counties which have been settled chiefly by families from the Eastern states, education re- ceives more attention, and schools are better established than in most other parts of the State. There are 23 school districts in the county, all of which accepted the provisions of the law regulating the common school system, soon after its passage. In 21 of these districts which have reported, there are 185 schools established for instruction according to the provisions of the law, which are kept open, on a general average, nearly six months in the year. There are two incorporated academies : the Susquehanna academy at Montrose has recently assumed a very promising condition ; and the Franklin academy at Harford has also attained a creditable re- putation.
There are 28 houses for public worship: nine of which belong to Presbyterians, six to Baptists, three Episcopal, three Methodist, two Roman Catholic, two Universalist, one Friends, and two built by various denominations united. In a large number of cases, small congregations who have not the means of erecting churches, hold their meetings for worship in school houses.
How is Susquehanna county bounded ? What is the character of the surface ? Describe Elk mountain and the prospect from it. What is said of the productive character of the county ? Give an account of the general geological features and rock formations. Where is an impure limestone found ? Describe the course of the North branch of Susquehanna. What creeks are in the south-east ?- in the north ?- in the west and south-west ? What is said of the lakes? Where is Silver lake ? Describe the water- falls on Silver creek and Cascade creek. What is said of the climate ? Give a description of Montrose, its situation, public buildings, &c. What other towns are mentioned ? What is said of the agriculture of this county and its principal productions ? Mention its advantages as a grazing coun- try. and for producing butter, cheese, &c. What is the number of sheep, and the amount of wool annually produced ? Notice the prevailing kinds of timber, and the amount of maple sugar made. Where do the surplus productions find a market ? What rail roads and canals will benefit this county, though not within it ? Mention the various turnpike roads. What is said of the attention paid to education, and of the number of schools, aca- demies, &c. ? How many houses for public worship are there, and to what religious denominations do they belong ?
50. TIOGA COUNTY.
Tioga county adjoins the State of New York on the north, Bradford on the east, Lycoming and Clinton on the south, and Potter on the west. Population, 15,498.
The face of the country resembles that of the northern line of counties generally, being no where mountainous, but hilly and uneven; deeply furrowed by the channels of the streams, with steep and rough acclivities rising to the upland.
The soil of the bottom lands in the valleys of the streams is of superior quality ; that on the hills is less productive, but yields good pasturage and tolerable crops of grain when well cultivated.
355
TIOGA COUNTY.
Nearly the whole of this county is occupied by the olive slates, red shales and sandstones of the formations below the coal series. In the neighbour- hood of Blossburg, however, on the Tioga river near its source, is a coal basin several miles in extent, in which the deep channels of the streams have cut through and exposed numerous successive beds of coal, fire clay and iron ore, belonging to the lower portion of the bituminous coal forma- tion. Iron works have been erected at Blossburg, and a rail road con- structed to Corning in the State of New York, in order to afford an outlet for the mineral treasures of this district.
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