History of California, Volume IV, Part 16

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe
Publication date: 1885
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers
Number of Pages: 820

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Commodore Kennedy being at the Islands in Sep- tember 1836, received from the merchants of Hon- olulu a memorial in which he was urged to visit the coast of California and Mexico, on the ground "that many serious outrages and unjust acts have been com- mitted by the governmental authorities of those coun- tries upon American vessels and seamen, and great losses and damages sustained in consequence." More- over, "we believe that no vessel of the U. S. has for many years visited Upper California; and we have con- fidence that were a naval force to appear on that coast, it would render valuable service to our citizens resid- ing in those countries, would afford needed succor and protection to American vessels employed there, and be attended with results peculiarly advantageous to the general interests of our national commerce."34

32 Notice of Dana's Two Years before the Mast, in chap. xiv., vol. iii. of this work.

33 Ruschenberger's Narrative of a Voyage round the World during the Ycara 1835-37 ;... London, 1838, Svo, 2 vol., with illustrations The mat- ter on California is on pp. 380-4; and chap. xxi .- ii. p. 402-26.

31 The seizure of the Loriot at S. Francisco in 1833 was one of the out-

141

VISIT OF THE 'PEACOCK.'

In accordance with this request, the Peacock was di- rected across the Pacific and anchored at Monterey the 24th of October. The visit was not eventful, nor is much known of it in detail, no notice of the arrival even appearing in the archives. The author found Governor Gutierrez and his forces "nightly on guard, expecting an attack from some disaffected rancheros and Indians." He visited the deserted mission at Carmelo; was visited by some trappers, who recounted their inland exploits, expressed proper amazement at all on shipboard, and exhibited their marksmanship; and met the old veteran, Captain William Smith. Then after six days, "the commodore having done all that was necessary in relation to the subjects of com- plaints under the existing circumstances," he got under way for Mazatlan on the 30th, just in time to avoid the revolution-of which, and the part to be taken in it by foreigners, the commander knew noth- ing, perhaps-but not until he had received from American residents and supercargoes a letter of thanks for his kind interference, and the 'highly salutary' influence of his visit.35 There is no record of his investigation of abuses, if he made any.

Ruschenberger gives a slight description of the town and bay of Monterey. He notes some facts respecting the commercial interests of the country; records his observations briefly on several Californian institutions; speaks of the ruinous condition of San

rages complained of; and another vessel belonging to John C. Jones was be- lieved to be at present detained unlawfully. The signers of the memorial, many of whom were known in Cal., and all engaged more or less in the Cal. trade, were as follows: Peirce & Brewer, Jos Moore, Wm Paty, Ladd & Co., Sherman Peck, Hinckley & Smith, A. H. Faycrweather, Thos Cummins, Henry P. Stevens, Eliab Grimes & Co., Thos Meek, Henry Paty & Co., J. Peabody, Eli Southworth, Jos Navarro, D. Owen, Sam. F. Shaw, A. C. Davis, John Paty, Sam. A. Cushing, Wm French, J. R. Thomas, J. Ebbetts, Steph. D. McIntosh, Wm H. Pearce, Cornelius Hoyer, Nelson Hall, Chas Titcomb, Wm C. Little.

35 The letter, dated Oct. 28th, was signed by Nathan Spear, F. D, Ather- ton, John Meek, Thos A. Norton, Thos O. Larkin, Josiah Thompson, Wm S. Hinckley, Wm M. Warren, A. G. Tomlinson, John H. Everett, Ed H. Faucon, Jos Carter, and Wm French. It was addressed to 'Com. Edmund P. Ken- nedy, commanding East India Station, U. S. ship Peacock.'

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SUTTER'S FORT-VISITS AND BOOKS.

Cárlos; illustrates by an anecdote the methods of administering justice; gives much attention, compar- atively, to the trappers; and finally adds a short his- torical chapter, the matter of which was drawn from Venegas, and pertains almost exclusively to Baja Cal- ifornia. Except as a record of the visit, this book is of no special importance in its relation to California, though well written, and of real value in its informa- tion on other parts of the world.

Thomas Nuttall, an English botanist, who had crossed the continent to the Columbia River in 1834, came to California apparently early in 1836, on a ves- sel from the Hawaiian Islands. Dana records his trip down the coast to San Diego in April, on the Pilgrim, and his sailing on the Alert for Boston in May. "That during this limited period Mr Nuttall should have accomplished so much for California bot- any speaks volumes to his credit," says a recent writer; but what he accomplished, and how and when it was made known, are matters that have escaped my re- search.36 Ferdinand Deppe, a German naturalist and supercargo, visited California on the Rasselas, in Oeto- ber of this year, on his way to Honolulu; but I have no record of his scientific labors here.

Captain Sir Edward Belcher, R. N., in command of H. M. S. Sulphur, with the Starling under Lieu- tenant Kellett, visited California in 1837 and again in 1839. Captain Beechey had left England at the end of 1835 in command of the expedition; but on account of his illness Belcher came out to succeed him, and took command at Panamá in February 1837. The route was up the coast to San Blas, to the Hawaiian Islands, to the north-west coast of America, to California, to the Mexican and Central American coasts, to Callao and back to Panamá in October 1838. The second cruise was for the most part a

s6 Parry's Early Bot. Expl., 414; Dana's Two Years, 333-7; Townsend's Narr., 233.

143

BELCHER ON THE COAST.

repetition of the first until the navigator left Maza- tlan in January 1840 for the South Sea Islands and Singapore; thence to China, where most of the year 1841 was passed; and homeward to England round Cape Good Hope, arriving in August 1842. Belcher himself was the historian of the voyages, and the surgeon, R. B. Hinds, added an appendix. According to the published instructions to Beechey and Belcher, the main object of the expedition was the completion of a hydrographic survey of the western coasts and islands of America; and it is in its information on this and cognate topics that the value of the narrative chiefly consists; though general and miscellaneous observations on the regions visited are by no means neglected.37

Coming from Nootka, the Sulphur anchored at Yerba Buena about midnight on October 19, 1837, leaving the Starling outside the heads to enter next day.38 Belcher had visited San Francisco before in 1827, and both here and at Santa Clara, where he went in a vain search for supplies, as later at Monte- rey and elsewhere, he noted the striking evidences of deterioration and decay. Nowhere did he find any encouraging feature. "Another fate attends this coun- try. Their hour is fast approaching. Harassed on all sides by Indians, pestered by a set of renegade de- serters from whalers and merchant ships who start by dozens and will eventually form themselves into a bandit gang and domineer over them; unable from

87 Belcher, Narrative of a Voyage round the World, performed in Her Majesty's Ship 'Sulphur,' during the years 1836-1842 .. . by Captain Sir Ed- ward Belcher, R. N., C. B., F. R. A. S., etc., Commander of the Expedition. London, 1843. Svo, 2 vol. Illust. and maps. The portions relating to Cali- fornia are in vol. i., 'hydrographic instructions,' p. xviii., and text, pp. 114-37; 312-28; and vol. ii. Appendix, 'Hinds's The Regions of Vegetation,' Califor- nia Region, p. 345-8. No illustrations or map for California. Scientific publications resulting from this expedition were: Ilinds's Botany of the Voyage of II. M. S. Sulphur ... Botanical Descriptions, by George Bentham, Esq. London, 1844. 4to; and Hinds's Zoology of the Voyage. . . London, 1844. 4to. 2 vol., with plates. Mammalia, by J. E. Gray; Birds, by J. Gould; Fish, by J. Richardson; Mollusca, by R. B. Hinds.

38 The arrival is also mentioned by Capt. Richardson in a letter to Vallejo. Vallejo, Doc., MS., iv. 328.

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SUTTER'S FORT-VISITS AND BOOKS.

want of spirit to protect themselves, they will soon dwindle into insignificance." "The missions, the only respectable establishments in this country, are anni- hilated; they have been virtually plundered by all parties." "They sadly want the interposition of some powerful friend to rescue them. To Great Britain their hopes are directed; why, I cannot learn, but I am much inclined to think that it is rather from a pusillanimous fear and want of energy to stand by each other and expel their common enemies than from any friendly feeling to Great Britain. Besides this, they look with some apprehension upon a power daily increasing, an organized independent band of de- serters from American and English whalers. These men, headed by one or two noted daring characters now amongst them, will, whenever it suits their purpose, dictate their own terms and set all law at defiance"- a prophecy of the troubles with Graham and his band in 1840. Belcher's own crew contributed some half dozen men to this army of deserters, and besides, he found it difficult to obtain needed supplies.

The main object in entering San Francisco Bay was to complete the survey begun by Beechey by making explorations beyond the strait of Carquines and up the great rivers to the head of navigation. They started October 24th with the Starling-which, however, was left about 36 miles beyond the strait- pinnace, two cutters, and two gigs. He did not find the Jesus Maria and San Joaquin-the former be- cause there was no such stream distinct from the Sac- ramento, and the latter because its mouth and course were much farther south than he had been led to sup- pose, as indeed he finally concluded, though pronounc- ing it "certainly not navigable nor entitled to be named as a river in conjunction with its majestic neigh- bor." As they advanced up the Sacramento the Ind- ians became more and more shy, until at last it was found impossible to communicate with them. The highest point, reached on the 30th, and deemed the

145

SURVEY OF THE SACRAMENTO.

head of navigation about one hundred and fifty miles by the windings of the stream, was at a branch beyond which there was not water enough in either channel for the lightest boats, located in 38° 46' 47" and named Point Victoria, or Elk Station. This location is alto- gether unintelligible to me. Much descriptive mat- ter is given about the soil and vegetation of the banks, as well as of the animals and natives of the Oneshanate tribe. The broad plain was said to be bounded in the east by the Sierra Nevada, and on the west by the Bolbones and Diablo mountains. The trigono- metrical survey was completed down the river and connected with that of Beechey, the task not being completed, with hard and constant work, until Novem- ber 24th, a full month in all. No chart of the sur- vey is given, though a copy was promised to General Vallejo. 39

At the end of November the vessels sailed, and anchored December 2d at Monterey, which town Belcher found "as much increased as San Francisco had fallen into ruin. It was still, however, very mis- erable, and wanting in the military air of 1827." Nothing was done here, so far as is shown by the narrative; and on the 6th the Sulphur sailed for San Blas, as the Starling had done some days before.

Coming again from the north, Captain Belcher ar- rived on September 20, 1839, with his two vessels at Bodega, but at once made a trip of 48 hours to San Francisco and back, in the Sulphur." A description of the Russian establishment is given, though the commander was so busy in surveying the port that

39 Nov. 30, 1837, autograph letter of Belcher to Vallejo, in which he ex- presses regret at not meeting him; promises a copy of his chart-which he would leave now but for the fact that it is so confused as to be of no use; and complains of the desertion of his men. Vallejo, Doc., MS., iv. 355. Dec. 26th, Vallejo issues orders for the capture of the deserters. Id., iv. 366.

" Sept. 21, 1839, Belcher to Vallejo-in Spanish and not autograph-urg- ing him to capture and return the Il deserters of the former visit. Vallejo, Doc., MS., viii. 164. He says nothing ef the chart ef the Sacramente. An order was promptly issued for the capture of the deserters. Id., viii. 185; S. Diego, Arch., MS., 206. The result dees not appear; but it is probable that some of Belcher's men were among the exiles of the next year.

· HIST. CAL., VOL. IV. 10

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SUTTER'S FORT-VISITS AND BOOKS.

he had no time to visit Ross in person. The survey completed, the vessels proceeded to San Francisco for supplies and the completion of certain observations, touching for one day only at Monterey, the 5th of October. Thence the expedition moved down the coast, touching at Santa Bárbara the 9th; at San Pedro the 11th; at San Juan the 13th. One of the vessels visiting Santa Catalina Island, they arrived at San Diego on the 17th, and five days later sailed for the southern coasts.

In connection with this cruise down the Californian coast, some local descriptive matter is given in the narrative, which for both visits contains occasional references to the unfortunate condition of the country and the ruin of the missions. Hinds in his appendix on the 'regions of vegetation' gives three pages only of general remarks on the extent, physical character, climate, and flora of the Californian region-including the country between the Columbia and the Colorado. In the absence of charts to show the details of the hydrographic survey, Belcher's book cannot be said to have much value so far as California is concerned.

William A. Slacum was commissioned by the U. S. government to obtain information about the Pacific coast, particularly Oregon. He came down from the Columbia in the spring of 1837 on the Loriot, with Young and Edwards' party of cattle-buyers, a party which he aided in fitting out. We have no details of his experience in California from February 19th, when he arrived at Ross, to March 2d, the date of his leav- ing Monterey for San Blas ; but in his report to the secretary of state, dated March 26th, he gave an ac- count of Young's enterprise, and a good description of the Russian establishment, at the same time promis- ing another report on California, which I have not seen. 41 This report was published in 1839, and with

41 Slacum's Report, 1837, in U. S. Govt Doc., 25th cong. 3d sess., House "Rep., no. 101, p. 29-46. Slacum notes a material change in the climate of the coast. Formerly from May to Oct. the prevailing winds had been from N. w. to .w., and in Nov. to Apr. from s. w. to s. s. w .; but for three

147

PETIT-THOUARS' VISIT.

it another by Hall J. Kelley, whose visit, already de- scribed, had been in 1834. This writer devotes half a dozen pages to a "brief geographical account of the northern portion of High California," not very inac- curate, considering Kelley's limited opportunities of observation. 42

The voyage of the French frigate Vénus, command- ed by Captain Abel du Petit-Thouars, who was also the historian of the expedition, lasted from December 1836 to June 1839. The route was from Brest to Brazil, round Cape Horn, to Callao, to Honolulu, to Kamchatka, to California, down the coast to San Blas and Valparaiso, to the South Sea Islands, and home by Cape Good Hope, meeting Belcher's expedition at several points. The primary object was to investigate the whale-fisheries of the North Pacific, with a view

years past (since 1834) the winds had been exactly, reversed, making the win- ters much colder. Thermometer at Ross, Oct. 1836, 43° to 66°; Nov., 38° to 72°; Dec., 36° to 62°; Jan. 1837, 38° to 58°; Feb., 43° to 56°. Feb. 12, 1837, Va- llejo to Alvarado. Is informed that a U. S. commissioner is expected on the Loriot to survey the coast. Vallejo, Doc., MS., iv. 75.

42 Kelley's Memoir on Oregon and High California, dated Jan. 31, 1839, and published in the same document as Slacum's report, p. 47-61. Kelley speaks of California, 'because it has been and may be again made the subject of con- ference and negotiation between Mexico and the U. S .; and because its future addition to our western possessions is most unquestionably a matter to be de- . sired.' 'There is one continuous line of prairie extending from the gulf of Cal, to the 39th parallel, sometimes 100 miles wide and seldom less than 10, opening to the ocean only at the bay of San Francisco'-very fertile, but prob- ably not fitted for profitable cultivation on account of alkali and asphaltum. 'The coast is always healthy; but during the heat of summer the prairies of the interior are pestilential, and diseases abound.' The only harbors visited and described are Sta Cruz and S. F .- the latter the best harbor in N. W. America, except one in the strait of Fuca. Of the S. Joaquin: 'This tranquil river must eventually become productive of vast benefit to California, not merely as a convenient and ready inlet for commercial purposes, but as a great outlet through which shall be drained those superfluous waters by which so much of the prairie is converted into a marsh and rendered fruitful only of disease and death. It is indeed a vast canal, constructed by an almighty architect, and destined, I doubt not, in future ages to transport the countless products of a mighty empire.' The 'Sacrament' is also described as 'navi- gable for vessels of small burden to its first fork, about 80 miles from its mouth.' 'When I remember the exuberant fertility, the exhaustless natural wealth, the abundant streams and admirable harbors, and the advantageous shape and position of High California, I cannot but believe that at no very dis- tant day a swarming multitude of human beings will again people the solitude, and that the monuments of civilization will throng along those streams and cover those fertile vales.'

14S

SUTTER'S FORT-VISITS AND BOOKS.

to the further development of that industry and the protection of French interests. The presence of a national vessel on the western coasts of America was expected to have a good moral effect by inspiring re- spect for the French flag; and the commander was instructed not only to encourage and protect the com- mercial interests of his country, but also to acquire all possible information respecting the actual condition of the various countries visited. The members of the scientific corps were to seize every opportunity for making observations on hydrographic and other spe- cial matters. The voyage was prosperous in most re- spects, and the results were published in 1840.43

The Venus, coming from the far north with a force of over three hundred men, anchored at Monterey October 18, 1837.# Many of the men were sick with scurvy, but through the kindness of David Spence a vacant house on shore was furnished for a hospital as well as observatory, and all were cured but one man, who was buried with military honors at San Carlos. The frigate saluted the fort and was saluted in turn with an equal number of guns. Governor Alvarado received the navigators with his usual hearty polite- ness, sending on board some baskets of grapes, and granting every facility for making observations and obtaining needed supplies. A grand ball was given to the strangers during their stay, which affair, with a visit to the mission of San Carlos, to which the

43 Petit-Thouars, Voyage autour du monde sur la frégate La Vénus, pendant les années 1836-1839. Publié par ordre du roi, sous les auspices du Ministre de la Marine, par Abel du Petit- Thouars, capitaine de vaisseau, Commandeur de la Légion-d'Honneur. Paris, 1840-4. Svo, 5 vol. map. The author in his pref- ace speaks of charts of all the ports in which the Venus anchored, and also of an Album Pittorresque in folio of drawings accompanying the narrative; but I have not seen either. The portions relating to Cal. are as follows: tom. ii. p. 77-144, narrative of visit and historical acconut; tom. iii. p. 328- 31, condensed narrative in a report presented on the return to France; 345- 92, occasional slight mentions in a report on the whale-fishery; also in sheets at end of volume, accounts of supplies furnished, etc .; tom. iv. p. 1-33, Cal. documents in Notes et Pièces Justificatives ; tom. v. p. 177-85, 430-1, scien- tific notes, with some memoranda on events of the visit, in Journal des Ob- servations Détachées.

" I have found in the archives nothing about the presence of this vessel.

140

NARRATIVE BY PETIT-THOUARS.

Frenchman was prompted by the narrative of La Pérouse, are the only events of the visit recorded, except such as were connected with the making of scientific observations and the obtaining of supplies. This latter was attended with some difficulty. No- tice of the arrival had been sent in advance from Honolulu, and it was hoped to find provisions pre- pared for sale. But such was not the case. Flour was scarce, and the ship's bakers, establishing them- selves on shore, had to work day and night to provide a supply of biscuits. The sum paid for provisions, including twenty-two beeves, was about $8,000.45 Captain Hinckley's vessel, the Kamamalu, was char- tered to go to San Francisco for provisions and water. The trip took from October 20th to November 2d; and M. M. Chiron, Tessan, and Mesnard took advan- tage of it to complete their scientific survey of San Francisco. The Venus finally left Monterey the 14th of November.

Petit-Thouars' work is a much more valuable one, so far as California is concerned, than that of Bel- cher. In addition to the brief narrative of the visit itself, to scientific observations of different kinds not particularly important in this part of the voyage, and to very complete descriptive matter on the only part of the country visited, the French navigator gives an excellent sketch of Californian history for the ten years preceding his visit, especially of the revolu- tionary troubles then in progress, and of the actual condition of the country, its people, and its institu- tions. Naturally the author fell into some errors. But from no other single work, I think, could so com- plete and accurate an idea of the subject be obtained. He was the first of visitors to collect original docu- ments, ten of which, relating to the revolution, and

45 Vallejo, Hist. Cal., MS., iii. 314-16, states that Petit-Thouars on be- ing solicited by some of the officers who without Alvarado's knowledge wished to purchase powder in exchange for beeves, refused to sell, but landed the powder, about 500ibs, in the night as a gift, being willing to favor secretly the cause of the Californians.

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SUTTER'S FORT-VISITS AND BOOKS.

for the most part unknown to other writers, are pre- sented, with translations. True, later writers have, not utilized these documents, and they are of little use to me, as I have the originals; yet this in no wise detracts from the credit due M. Petit-Thouars. His map of the world, so far as it shows California, is of no importance here. It shows only the coast on a small scale, and in the broad interior the four great rivers Columbia, Colorado, Rio Grande, and Arkan-

120

115

110

165

Clark's

Pends Oreilles

Missouri R.

Flat Head R.

Stone R.

Wallamunt R.

ToSnake R

Three Tetons

Sweet Water

Claymouth

WIND RIVER MTS.

Ogdens R.

Futgio L.

-12

Bonneville

Battle L

Ashley L.

San Francisco

LostR

Montereyo

Chataqui L.

1204

115

110

105

BONNEVILLE'S MAP, 1837.

sas rising in the same region. But I copy here a re- duction of Bonneville's map of 1837, the accuracies and inaccuracies of which need no remark.46

In 1838 there is neither foreign visit nor book to be noted here; but 1839 gave to the world a most excellent résumé of Californian history, written by

46 Warren's Mem., 34, pl. iv.

cAstoria

imbia R. Ft. Yanconver

Ft. Walla Walla

Salmon R.

& Colorado at the Wo

River

Mary Q

Bay

151

FORBES' WORK ON CALIFORNIA.

Alexander Forbes and edited by . John Forbes, a brother of the author residing in London. 47 The author was an English merchant, long a resident of Tepic. He had never visited California, so far as I know, but he was brought constantly in contact with intelligent men who were familiar with the country, being also in correspondence with prominent Califor- nians, notably with José Bandini, from whom in the form of letters he derived much of the information published in his book.48 The manuscript was com- pleted and sent to England in October 1835; but the publication being delayed, additional material was supplied by the author and others, bringing the nar- rative in a sense down to 1838. I have given the title and contents in full in a note. Of course in so small a volume nothing but the merest outline of his- tory could be given, as drawn from Venegas and Palou for the earlier times, with only here and there a salient point of later annals. It was not in any sense as a history of the past that the book has value, but rather as a presentation by an intelligent

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History of California, Volume IV, Part 16

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe Publication date: 1885 Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers Number of Pages: 820

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe
Publication date: 1885
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers
Number of Pages: 820