USA > California > History of California, Volume IV > Part 26
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243
RINGGOLD AND EMMONS.
Wilkes had instructions, given doubtless not with- out some consideration of political possibilities, to de- vote special attention to a survey of San Francisco Bay. Accordingly, from the Columbia River, where his fleet had been for several months, he despatched the Vincennes under Lieutenant Ringgold for Califor- nia. She sailed August 7, 1841, and arrived at San Francisco on the 14th,32 lying at anchor at Sauzalito until November 1st. On the 20th of August Ring- gold, with Dr Pickering, six officers, and about fifty men, started in the boats to explore the Sacramento River, arriving at Sutter's Fort in three days, con- tinuing the exploration up to latitude 39° 13' 39", re- turning to New Helvetia September 4th, and to the Vincennes five days later. Subsequently Ringgold made other exploring trips about the bay and up the San Joaquin, not particularly described. They met with no adventures, and their description of the coun- try, with its Indians, animals, and vegetation, calls for no special notice here.33
Another party under Lieutenant Emmons, consist- ing of four officers, eight men of the expedition, five of the scientific corps-Dana, Peale, Brackenridge, Rich, and Agato-six trappers, a guide, and three immigrants with their families, thirty-nine persons in
Vol. xvi. Botany, Cryptogamia, by Wm D. Brackenridge. Phil. 1854, 4°; atlas, Phil. 1855, fol., 46 pl. Many Cal. plants.
Vol. xvii., xviii., xix. Never published, so far as I can learn.
Vol. xx. Herpetology, by S. F. Baird. Phil. 1858, 4°; atlas, fol., 32 pl. Scattered references to Cal. (Later impressions bear the following title:)
Vol. xx. (bis). Herpetology, by Charles Girard. Phil. 1858, 4°; atlas, fol., 32 pl. (Same as preceding, except title, and addition of a list of plates, p. 473-6.)
Vol. xxi. Geographical Distribution of Animals.
32 Arrival noted in a letter of Aug. 14th. Vallejo, Doc., MS., x. 256. I find no record that the exploring fleet was troubled about anchorage dues.
33 Wilkes' Narr., v. 188-207. The only localities named are New Helvetia, American Fork, Prairie Butes, Bute Creek, Feather River, and Poplar Grove. It was supposed that the Jesus Maria of the Spaniards was the Sacramento above the junction with the Feather; but there is no foundation for this the- ory. The two names were applied long before the Spaniards had been up to Feather River, under the impression, formed from the branches or sloughs at the month, that there were two large rivers flowing from northerly directions. Pickering, in vol. ix., p. 104-10, also gives a slight description of this explora- tion. I reproduce Wilkes' map of California.
244
U. S. EXPLORING EXPEDITION.
Little
Pitts L
Klamet L.
mich R
, N. Years L.
Mt. Shasta
Pitta
Bay of Trinidad
¿. St.Joseph
Unknown L
7
C
Ay, COMME
A
E
L
Z
Sacramento
wMt.Smith
Pt.Barra de Arena
Feather R
New Helvetia
American R.
Port-Bodega
N
Cosmence R.
Magneles R.
A
Pt. Reyes
AR. st.Juan
Sausalito
B:of S.Francisco S.Francisco,
A
.Jose
R.
R
Otter.I.
Gil
S.CEUZ
Juan Baptista
Monterey Bay
Monterey
Pt.Pinas El Toro
L.Chintache
Soledad
E
A
FR
L
S.Antonio
L
Esteros Pt.
S. Miguel
L.Tule
S.Luis Obispo
R.
Gualaits pe
S. BARBARA
Pt.Arguello
La Purissima
Pt.Concepcion
S.Barbara
S.Buenaventura
WILKES' MAP, 1841.
Appelamuny
Sta. Clara
Noto
Zangina
Pubto Bay
A
Butes
Pt.Delgado
R
E
2445
WILKES AT SAUZALITO.
all, came down from Oregon overland. This party crossed the Boundary Range September 29th into California, and four days later struck the head waters of the Sacramento. On October 17th they reached the Feather River, and two days later were at Sutter's. This journey also was without adventure. At New Helvetia the company divided, one party with Em- mons embarking on the Vincennes' boat that had been sent to meet them, and reaching San Francisco on the 24th; while the rest, under Midshipman Eld, pro- ceeded by land by way of San José and reached the fleet on the 28th.34
Meanwhile Wilkes had sailed from the Columbia on the Porpoise with the Flying Fish and Oregon-the latter being the Thomas Perkins, purchased to replace the Peacock, which was wrecked on the Oregon coast- and arrived at San Francisco on the same day that Emmons reached New Helvetia, October 19th.35 His personal experience in California, outside of his vessel, seems to have been limited to a two or three days' trip to Santa Clara, which he describes in an interest- ing manner; but his officers visited many points round the bay, including Sonoma and San Rafael. Martinez and Richardson are the only entertainers who are fa- vorably mentioned; and guests on board the fleet are represented as having stayed longer than they were welcome.36 The "closing scene of the tour" was an
3+ Wilkes' Narr., v. 252-65; also v. 127, 142-3; ix. 110-12. The names used are Boundary Bange and Mt Emmens, Klamet river and valley, Mt Shaste (with view), Destruction River, Pitt River, Sacramento River, Bear Camp, Prairie Butes (39° 8'), Little Fork, Feather River, New Helvetia, Rie Cosme- nes, Mogueles River, San Juan, Frenchman's Camp, San Jeachin, Pul Perrice Hills, Mission San Jose, and Santa Clara.
85 Oct. 22, 1841, Wilkes to Valleje, announcing his arrival, and asking as- sistance in the way of supplies. Vallejo, Doc., MS., x. 312, 314. On Dec. 11th, Vallejo reported the visit and operations of the expeditien to the min- ister of war. Id., x. 383.
36 Wilkes' Narr., v. 207-28. Vallejo, Hist. Cal., MS., iv. 239-40, mentions a visit of Ringgeld to Sonoma, and an invitation for himself and family to visit the fleet, which he was obliged to decline. Some of the officers, according to Davis' Glimpses, MS., 73-84, also made a visit to Ross. Davis came frequently into contact with the officers and men of the expedition while at S. F., and he gives an interesting account of the visit. He tells us that Wilkes talked freely with Spear about the prospect of the U. S. securing S. F. Bay, and the determination not to let England gain any advantage.
246
U. S. EXPLORING EXPEDITION.
auction sale of the horses of the expedition at Yerba Buena, the proceeds of which amounted to $210. On November Ist the fleet set sail, several deserters being left behind, and one man being accidentally killed as the Vincennes crossed the bar. Mr Hale had been left in Oregon, and came down with Simpson in De- cember.
In naming the volumes devoted to a record of sci- entific observations which form the bulk of the great work resulting from this expedition, I have specified the parts of each pertaining to California. No further notice of these volumes is called for in an historical work; but I have no reason to doubt that they were altogether worthy of the eminent names attached to them. Officers and scientists did their work faithfully, and left an agreeable impression in the minds of such residents of the country as came in contact with them.
Of the narrative written by the commander, how- ever, not much can justly be said in praise, so far as that part relating to California is concerned. It is not worthy of the great enterprise it records, nor of its scientific appendices; nor does it compare favorably with earlier and less pretentious narratives. The ha- bitual misspelling of Spanish and other names is a blemish specially noticeable in a work written by an educated officer, and published under the auspices of a government and a learned society in so magnificent a form.37 Wilkes was reserved and cold in manner, or seemed so to the few Californians who met him; and his manner of referring to most things and men in his book, in marked contrast to the spirit of courtesy that had distinguished the statements of other visitors in like positions, is not calculated to inspire among Cali- fornians much regret that he was reprimanded, after
37 For instance, Wilkes writes, Los Angelos, San Joachin, Mt Diavolo, Kaquines, Jesu Maria, Bute, Nappa, Zonoma, Mogueles, Cosmenes, Cape Mendocina, Xacatecas, Nativetes, Caravallio River, San Juan Capista, Bran- caforte, Guadaloupe, Kihas, Mr Spears, Sr Noniga, Echandia, Cosme Penné, Ramierez, Pcralto, Padre Mercador, tula, poros (pozos), coural, Donna, Nos- tra Señora, etc.
247
WILKES' OBSERVATIONS.
a trial by court-martial, for severity to his men during the voyage. The season was one of drought, but that fact could not justify this author's absurd underesti- mate of the country's natural advantages. The people and their institutions certainly afforded some ground for unfavorable criticism, but Wilkes constantly in- dulges in careless misrepresentations and exaggera- tions.38 And I find no special excellence in any respect
38 I give a series of brief quotations to illustrate the spirit of the narrative. 'Although I was prepared for anarchy and confusion, I was surprised when I found a total absence of all government in California, and even its forms and ceremonies thrown aside.' p. 162. 'The alcalde of S. F. (Don Francisco Guer- rero) was full of self-importance, making up for what he wanted in the eyes of others by a high estimate of his own dignity. I could find no one who could furnish me with his name (!), which must be my apology for not re- cording it.' p. 163. 'The country, at the time of our visit, and for several years previous, had been in a state of revolution (!), and was involved in an- archy and confusion, without laws or security of person or property. ... With California is associated the idea of a fine climate. This at least was the idea with which I entered its far-famed port; but I soon found from the reports of the officers that their experience altogether contradicted the received opinion. Many compared its climate to that of Orange Harbor at Cape Horn.' p. 163-4. The valley of S. Juan is described as one of the most fertile tracts, but what valley is referred to it is hard to tell. 'The inland plain constituting a large part of Upper California is, according to all accounts, an arid waste.' p. 165. Only a small portion of the country offers any agricultural advantages. p. 16G. 'There is but comparatively little trade, for the hides and tallow which for- merly made the business profitable are no longer to be procured.' p. 168. The exports include 200,000 arrobas of tallow, and all merchantable products are less than a million dollars. p. 168-9. 'Although California may not boast of its dense population, every intelligent person I met agreed that it consumed more spirits in proportion than any other part of the world.' p. 169. Taxes are represented as very high, and the 'church tithes enormous' (!). p. 171. ' Descended from the old Spaniards, the Californians are unfortunately found to have all their vices, without a proper share of their virtues.' 'The female portion of the community are ignorant, degraded, and the slaves of their husbands.' 'The state of morals is very low, and is every day becoming worse. During the residence of the old Spanish priests, the people were kept under some control, but now priest and layman are alike given up to idleness and debauchery.' They have a reputation for hospitality, but will take money if offered through a servant, and will swindle a guest should be wish to hire or buy anything. p. 187-8. 'The best route to the U. S. is to follow the S. Joachin for 60 miles, thence easterly through a gap in the Snowy Mountains, by a good beaten road (!); thence the course is north-easterly to Mary's River.' p. 193. A Californian 'is content with coarse fare, provided he can get enough of strong drink to minister to this thirst .... The palm for intemperance was, I think, generally given to the padres.' A large part of the Sacramento Valley 'is undoubtedly barren and unproductive, and must forever remain so.' p. 206. Vallejo 'is not overscrupulous in demanding duties of vessels entering the port of S. F., and until he has been consulted, a vessel is liable to an in- definite amount of duties.' Anecdotes of him 'show a striking disregard for the lives as well as for the property and liberty of the Indians and gente de razon.' One of the governors trained Indians as soldiers and a company of them 'made such proficiency in the use of their arms that his excellency be- came alarmed and forthwith ordered them all to be shot (!). I have little
218
DUFLOT DE MOFRAS.
to compensate for these defects. There is of course much that is accurate enough, but nowhere does the narrative rise above the commonplace, or throw any new light upon either country or people. The descrip- tive portions are incomplete, and often inaccurate. The historical sketch is taken without much skill from Forbes, in the earlier parts, while later events are drawn apparently from Farnham, or some source tinged with that writer's prejudices. But for Wilkes' posi- tion, and the peculiar circumstances under which his narrative was written and published, these remarks might with some justice be regarded as hypercritical.
M. Eugène Duflot de Mofras was a young attaché of the French embassy at Madrid, who had previously visited America, when at the end of 1839 he was re- called by Marshal Soult, minister of foreign affairs, and attached to the legation at Mexico, with a special mission to visit the north-western provinces of the republic, and the American, English, and Russian posts beyond, "in order to ascertain, independently of a political point of view, what advantage might be offered to our commerce and to our navigation by mercantile expeditions, and the establishment of trad- ing-posts in those regions still little known in France." 39 The book which resulted from the performance of this mission contains no narrative, beyond here and there an incidental mention, of the author's personal adventures; and I am obliged to depend on the archives and other records that are not so complete as would be desira- ble. M. Mofras still occupied, in 1878, a high diplo- matic position, that of ministre plenipotentiaire under
doubt that this story may be essentially true.' p. 210-11. 'The state of so- ciety here [Sonoma] is exceedingly loose; envy, hatred, and malice predomi- nate in almost every breast, and the people are wretched under their present rulers. Female virtue is at a low ebb, and the coarse and lascivious dances show the degraded tone of manners.' p. 211-12. The administrator at Sta Clara had taken the name of his wife, Aliza, one of the most famous in early times! p. 217. The country between Sta Clara and S. Francisco was pictur- esque in places, 'though to all appearance entirely unfit for cultivation'! p. 226.
39 Mofras, Exploration, i. Avant-propos, p. viii .- ix.
240
A FRENCH VISITOR.
the French government; and he has assured me that he preserved no journal or memoranda of his personal experience in California.4
Having arrived in Mexico, the attaché's passports and letters of recommendation were issued in May 1840,41 and he soon started on his mission, visiting Co- lima, Jalisco, Sinaloa, Sonora, and perhaps Lower Cali- fornia, being on the gulf-coast apparently in Novem- ber.42 In April 1841 he came up from Mazatlan with Captain Fitch on the Ninfa, touching first, perhaps, at San Pedro, and arriving at Monterey in May.43 Before June 11th, he had visited Sonoma with a letter of introduction to Vallejo from Virmond, and probably went to Ross before returning to the capital.44 In
40 In one of his letters, dated at Paris, Dec. 11, 1878, M. Mofras writes me as follows. 'Cher Monsieur: Du retour d'un voyage à Constantinople je trouve votre amicale lettre et je ne puis assez vous remercier de votre bien- veillance; mais je vous assure que j'ai tout mis dans mon ouvrage, et que je n'ai pas fait de journal de mes impressions personnelles, qui, depuis si long- temps sont d'ailleurs bien effacées de ma mémoire. Veuillez vous souvenir ensuite qu'au moment de mon exploration elle était souvent perilleuse et que je voyais sans cesse des ours dans le forêt. Tant mon temps et mes facultés etaient pris par mes observations et el soin de ma vie materielle. Que de fois j'ai souffert le froid, la faim, et le soif ! Que de fois je me suis égaré des journées entières au risque de succomber! Vous avez une Californie qui res- semble à Paris maintenant; mais alors il était difficile souvent d'avoir des guides et il fallait craindre et les Indiens et surtout les ours.' I have before nie another original letter of the same writer, dated at Monterey, July 20, 1841-not, however, addressed to myself.
41 May 21, 1840, min. of rel. to gov. Announces that passports have been issued to Mofras for a scientific visit to Cal., and orders protection to be af- forded him. Dept. St. Pap., Angeles, MS .. xi. 118-19. May 20th, Virmond to Alvarado, introducing and highly recommending Mofras. Vallejo, Doc., MS., xxxiii. 74. May 26th, Virmond to Vallejo, to same effect. Id., ix. 146. The order from the govt reached Cal. at the end of Oct., and was circulated in Nov. Dept. St. Pap., Ang., xi. 118; Id., Ben. Pref. y Juzg., v. 13; S. Diego, Arch., 261.
42 Mofras, Exploration, i. 203. The year is not mentioned.
43 April 13, 1841, arrival of Ninfa with Mofras on board, 19 days from Mazatlan, but no place named. Dept. St. Pap., Angeles, MS., iv. 83. May 12th, com. of Monterey announces arrival at Monterey on May 6th. Vallejo, Dos., MS., x. 130. May 12th, he felt an earthquake at Monterey, and again on July 3d. Explor., ii. 56.
4 June 11, 1841, Vallejo to com. of Monterey. Vallejo, Doc., MS., x. 163. Vallejo, Hist. Cal., MS., iv. 250-5, speaks of Mofras' visit to Sonoma, and says he sent an escort with him to Ross, whence he returned with a Russian escort to Sauzalito, crossing over to Yerba Buena in Richardson's vessel. In his Exploration, ii. 19, he speaks of having visited Ross several times; for the second time, Id., ii. 27, in Aug., when the author goes so far as to speak of an incident on the way.
250
DUFLOT DE MOFRAS.
July he was at Monterey, as appears from his letters. 45 September 1st he arrived at Sutter's Fort;46 and dur- ing the same month was at San José and Santa Cruz.47 October 18th the traveller had embarked at San Francisco on the Cowlitz for Fort Vancouver, meeting Wilkes outside the heads;4 and on Decem- ber 30th he came back on the same vessel to San Francisco in company with Sir George Simpson, John McLoughlin, and Horatio Hale.49 Mofras and Hale immediately took passage on the Bolivar for Monte- rey;50 and on January 3d, the former sailed with Cap- tain Peirce for Mazatlan on the Maryland, which touched at Santa Bárbara, and remained for nine days, January 18th to 27th, at San Diego.51 During the travels of which I have presented this fragmen- tary record, Mofras visited probably every mission and other settlement in California. I suppose that the Santa Bárbara district was explored in April, as the Ninfa came up the coast; those of Monterey and San Francisco from May to October, the explorer making his headquarters at the capital and Yerba Buena; and that of San Diego in January 1842, while the Maryland was disposing of her cargo.
Of the French visitor's acts and experience during the travels thus outlined, we know even less than of the travels themselves-nothing at all indeed, so far as the south is concerned. At Yerba Buena he spent some time at the house of Nathan Spear, making that his headquarters while he visited different points in the north. At this time William H. Davis, Spear's
13. 45 July 20th, Mofras to the P. president at S. José. Pico, Doc., MS., ii. Same date Mofras to Alvarado. Dept. St. Pap., MS., v. 117.
46 Sept. 1st, Sutter to Suuol, announcing the arrival of ' M. le Comte.' Sut- ter-Suñol Corresp., MS., 10.
47 Exploration, i. 417, 324.
48 Wilkes' Narr., v. 157. A boat came from the Cowlitz to the Porpoise, having on board Capt. Brotchic and Mofras. His intention then was to go from the Columbia to the Sandwich Islands.
49 Dept. St. Pap., Ben. Mil., MS., lv. 18.
50 Simpson's Narrative, i. 303.
5! Peirce's Rough Sketch, MS., 87; Id., Journals, MS., 90-1; Mofras, Ex- ploration, i. 33-1.
251
MOFRAS AND VALLEJO.
man of business, came much in contact with Mofras, who often sailed with him on the schooner Isabella to different points on the bay. Davis became a great admirer of the Frenchman, whom he describes as a most accomplished gentleman, well liked by all who met him, intelligent and observant, enthusiastic to the verge of excitability, and prone to indulge in rhap- sodical prophecies on the grand future of San Fran- cisco Bay and the region thereabout.52
During his visit to Sonoma, Mofras in some way gave offence to Vallejo, who conceived a bitter dislike of the man, which is clearly expressed in his narrative, and which perhaps accounts for the fact that the traveller is not very complimentary, though by no means severe or abusive, in his allusions to the gen- cral. Vallejo admits that Mofras was an intelligent and highly educated man, and that he could be a gen- tleman if he chose; but insists that he was conceited, arrogant, and disposed to look down on the Califor- nians as inferior beings. Alleging no improprieties on the part of the visitor at Sonoma, he gives credence to several absurd scandals respecting his conduct else- where, and delights in presenting his every act in an unfavorable and ridiculous light.53 Of these scandals, the only one worthy of notice here is that of Mofras' conduct at the Alisal Rancho, an account of which
52 Davis' Glimpses of the Past, MS., 38-42. The author relates that on one occasion the schooner grounded on the mud flats at North Beach, and they had to wait for the tide to float them. Mofras after a time became impatient, theu excited, and finally jumped overboard to wade and swim and wallow to the shore, which he succeeded in reaching in a not very presentable condition. Vallejo tells the same story, and he says also that this adventure was on the return from Ross via Sauzalito.
53 Vallejo, Hist. Cal., MS., iv. 244-59. The author says he was at work out of doors when Mofras made his appearance, and asked, 'Where is the comandante general ?' 'Mr Prudon will conduct you to his office, sir,' re- plied Vallejo, who straightway entered by a back door, donned his uniform, and received his guest. In the interview that followed, Mofras seems to have assumed considerable self-importance, and to have spoken iu a tone of famil- iarity that was offensive to the general's sense of dignity. Vallejo in some way got the idea that Mofras left the country angry with the Californians, and especially with himself; and his statement seems to have been made with a view to counteract such charges and abuse as he supposed the Frenchman had introduced in his book-which he had not seen.
252
DUFLOT DE MOFRAS.
was made public in a newspaper on the authority of Mrs Hartnell.54 It is enough to say on this subject that the lady mentioned has since declared the story, so far as Mofras is concerned, to be without founda- tion. At San Antonio he had some kind of a quarrel with Jesus Pico, the administrator, according to the latter's statement.55
At Monterey Mofras had a correspondence with various padres about the condition of their respective establishments and matters of mission history, send- ing them as gifts certain sacred trinkets which he had brought from Spain.56 He also conducted some nego- tiations with the governor, with a view to have dis- covered and punished the murderers of the French- man, Dubosc, in 1840.57 Alvarado describes him as a young man of great ability, generous inclinations, and fiery temperament; but arrogant, and prone to dissipation.58 Sir George Simpson speaks of "a pas- senger of the name of De Mofras, who represented himself, for he had no credentials, as an attaché of the French embassy in Mexico. Though this gentleman professed to be collecting information for the purpose of making a book, yet, with the exception of accom- panying us to the Willamette, he scarcely went ten miles from the comfortable quarters at Fort Vancouver;
64 Monterey Herald, March 20, 1875; Id., Oct. 24, 1875 (?); Hartnell, Nar- rativa, MS., 14-20.
55 Pico, Acontecimientos, MS., 54-7; Id., letter, Pioneer Sketches, MS., no. 2. Pico claims to have put Mofras under arrest in the padre's house, the padre allowing him to escape to Monterey, where the quarrel was renewed later. The origin of the trouble was Mofras' insolent complaint that suffi- cient attention was not shown him. In his Exploration, i. 388, M. speaks of his indiguation at seeing the administrator at S. Antonio, an old servant of the mission, take advantage of the padre's paralyzed condition to refuse him the necessary aid and food. Salvador Vallejo, Notas, Hist., MS., 129-30, takes some pride in having told Mofras of a mission at Sta Rosa, and of vanilla growing there.
55 Pico, Doc., MS., ii. 13. Only one of the letters appears, but others are alluded to in this.
57 Dept. Rec., MS., xii. 41; Dept. St. Pap., MS., v. 117. Mofras, Explor., i. 465, accuses Vallejo of having shut his eyes and allowed the assassin to escape.
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