USA > California > Santa Barbara County > History of Santa Barbara county, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 64
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" Of the great variety of fruit and ornamental trees, the rapid growth and the early bearing which can be had here, we have a striking instance on the
place from which I write-that of Mr. Bond, formerly of La Porte, Indiana. Mr. B. came here three years ago, and selected this place-then covered with for- est and rocks-for the sake of its beautiful view, of which we have spoken. He evidently set out to make a rural home.
The reader may judge as to his success. He has now growing on the place thirty-three kinds (or generic classes) of fruits, embracing 106 varieties, more than two-thirds of which are beginning to hear. Ilis figs began to bear the second year from the cutting, and promise considerable fruit this year -the third. Grapes of several varieties are even more precocious, the vine, in its first year from ent- ting, producing several clusters of perfeet fruit. Peach and almond trees bore some fruit the second year from the pits, and their tops, four to six feet in diameter, are now a mass of bloom in the third year. Lemons (one or two varieties) fruit the third year . from cuttings or seed; oranges the fifth or sixth year. each two or three years earlier than in Florida. The lemon trees here (three years old) have given us some excellent pastry, to my certain knowledge, and are now in bloom, regaling us with a fragrance to match the flavor of the pie. All kinds of berries fruit correspondingly early. Strawberries may ripen within six weeks from the time of setting, and can be kept bearing all the year round. We've had them all winter. Raspberries are now ripe. But my reader is still in the midst of frost, perhaps, and as I don't mean to be tantalizing, I'll not 'linger' on the subject as I do over the fruits themselves at table.
ORNAMENTAL TREES.
" I have just counted forty kinds, embracing one hundred varieties, growing on the grounds here-trees from the Holy Land, trees from the Nile country, trees from China, trees from Japan, trees from Aus- tralia, trees and shrubs from opposite sides and all quarters of the globe. Among the most curious of this large collection are the India-rubber and the camphor tree, the latter affording the best of shade, surely, for those who have headache or faint- ness.
" Of the forty-three varieties of evergreens, per- haps the most beautiful are among the acacias (the florabundi, the latifolia, and the cynophilia are fav- orite varieties), the palms, and the Norfolk Island pine. The latter throws out its branches in whorls at regular intervals, two each year usually, the bare stalk between the circles of branches marking a half year's growth. The tree, when considerably grown, has the form of a fountain with full play of water- most graceful in appearance. Among the evergreens we notice the Sequoia Giganta or mammoth tree of Calaveras. The specimen here, as the reader will understand, lacks the thousands of years' age, and is not so ' mammoth' as might be.
"We have noticed within the grounds about twenty kinds of flowering shrubs; of ' climbers' about the same number, with many varieties of each spe- cies. The collection of roses is not so remarkable for variety as for luxuriant growth, constancy of blooming, large size, and rich color of the bloom. Of the two kinds-shrubs and climbing-Mr. B. shows ns some twenty-five varieties, most of which bloom nine or ten months of the year without irri gation. The Baltimore Belle here produces a flower fully twice as large as I have ever seen them, except on this coast. The Lord Dijon, the Giant of Battles. the Maideu's Blush, all the choicest varieties, seem
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to out-do themselves here-larger, more double, and of richer hue than usual.
"Of bulbous flowers we notice on the grounds forty or fifty varieties, all thriving well, even the most deli- cate, without protection.
" It is worthy of note that all this variety of trees and shrubs, and fruits and flowers, the choice produc- tions of nearly every country the world around, grow here wholly without artificial helps-no green- house, no irrigation, no doctoring of soil. Altogether, the place is one of much interest, especially to those who have engaged in horticulture or landscape gardening back in the 'slow' country. The three years' growth here is certainly as great as can be produced in five years in Ohio. Hence only about half the ordinary time is required here to make handsome grounds. Those of which I have been speaking have not age enough-even with the advantage just noted-to show to the casual observer much beauty. Many of the trees, shrubs, etc., are only just started-are yet in their first year-and others are constantly being added. The place is still in the germ; but if the visitor to Santa Barbara five or ten years hence, drives out around the hills, and across the little valley to the Bond place, I predict he will pronounce himself repaid a hundred fold for the two hours' ride. Meantime there will doubtless be other nicely improved places in the neighborhood to claim a share of attention." The predictions of the writer, are more than fulfilled. The shrubbery. is luxuriant beyond expectation. The palms. espec- ially the date palm, with their waving foliage, give the place a tropical appearance.
THE HOT SPRINGS
Are in the vicinity of the Montecito Valley, being lo- cated in a canon leading therefrom. At a height of some 1,500 feet above the sea level, and right in the face of sandstone cliffs of nearly perpendicular posi- tion, the springs gush forth in quantity. The presence of sulphur in the water is recognized by the strong odor of sulphuretted hydrogen, and still further shown by the deposit of pure sulphur, white or black, in ves- sels containing the liquid. The highest temperature of the water is recorded at 130º Fahrenheit. The pre- cise amount of water flowing daily has not been ascertained. In former days the Spanish-speaking inhabitants of the surrounding country used to con- gregate here, the women utilizing the hot water to do their washing, the water being soft and hot enough so for their use, and the surroundings delightful.
The Springs were more or less patronized during Mr. Curtis' occupation, many invalids deriving great benefit from their residence there. Among those who profited by the curative effects was the renowned Senator Morton, of Indiana, who spent several weeks there in 1874. These springs have attained consid- crable celebrity owing to their sanitary qualities. In this regard they are similar to various health resorts in California and the East. The health-giving prop- erties are probably owing to the sulphur contained in the waters, and to the elevated temperature together, both are known to produce beneficial effects alone. Another consideration is not to be lost sight of-the pure air of elevated regions is an
important agent. Country food and exercise act favorably also, and are not by any means to be de- spised in reckoning up the advantages of residence at the Hot Springs of Santa Barbara or elsewhere. The springs are now in possession of the San Fran- cisco corporation, who held the mortgage which the hard-working former owners were unable to meet. There is every reason for believing that they will be an important factor in the future progress of the county, as by their increasing celebrity many will be drawn to what must become, in the ordinary course of affairs, an important watering-place and summer resort.
VIRTUES OF THE SPRINGS.
Like all thermal and mineral springs, they are adapted to certain forms of disease, and in some instances work remarkable cures. In acute inflam- mations, rheumatism, diseases of the bladder and kidneys, and in cutaneous eruptions, the use of the water both as a beverage and as a warm bath is gen- erally beneficial, while in cases of nervous debility, consumption, low vitality, and difficulties of a similar nature, the use of the water in any form is dangerous, and should be resorted to only under the advice of a competent physician.
It is proposed to carry the water in a pipe to the sea-shore and utilize it in connection with sea bathing.
The springs have been the source of much expen- sive litigation. Wilbur Curtis, the first one who attempted to make the place a popular resort, fought the Los Prietos y Najalayegua Grant Company with the fierceness of despair. The Hot Springs were one of the desirable places which tempted the cupidity of Tom Scott, Ed. Pringle, and others of that mem- orable suit. He mortgaged his place to raise money to carry it on and made a bitter fight. When the suit at last was won and the grant driven over the mountains, he found himself so financially crippled that he was unable to retain the property. and was obliged to wander out in the world and begin life's battle anew.
The springs and streams now form the basis of a water company for supplying Montecito with water for irrigation and domestic purposes. The water seems to lose its mineral eharacter by exposure to the air, and two miles below it is as pure and sweet as can be desired. Several hundred acres are supplied in this way.
FIRE.
Sometime in the history of the springs a forest fire broke out, which swept away the buildings around and very nearly consumed an invalid lady, who was lying helpless in the hotel. By the greatest exertion she was removed upon a stretcher to a place of safety, but so fierce were the flames that she was twice abandoned on the way.
VIEW NEAR THE SPRINGS.
Near the Springs are several high summits, upon attaining which, the lovely picturesqueness of the
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region may be seen. No portion of the range pre- sents better facilities for observing grand and beau- tiful scenery. From the summit of Lookout Mountain, nearly 2,000 feet above sea-level, the observer obtains one of the most beautiful panoramic views to be seen on the entire Pacific Coast. The vision takes in the whole valley of Santa Barbara, with its minor subdivisions of the Montecito, Carpen- teria, Goleta, etc., with the city, the Channel, the Islands of Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa and San Miguel on the south. Steamers pass before the gaze, the clouds rest upon the heads of the island moun- tains, while 2,000 teet below, their fect are washed by the ceaseless plash of the waves. Nearer lies the bay, whose waters of oft-changing hue and broad, smooth beach, with here and there a roeky point, where the incoming surf dashes its angry spray far into the air, are a study and a beauty forever. In the foreground is the lower valley, its sides a series of slopes lying at various angles, and separated by lateral ravines falling into the mountain gorges below. Groves of forest trees stand far below, presenting their tops only to the observer's view. To the south a beautifully rounded range of hills slope down to the sea; on the north, in vivid contrast, rises suc- cessive walls of the Santa Ynez range of mountains.
PICTURESQUE.
Those who have nerve and strength to explore the eañons will find ample reward for all the toil in some of the finest bits of scenery on the coast. Up the Cold Spring Cañon the stream leaps over a precipice a hundred feet high. It is related of an ambitious and daring lady hunter who would explore these wilds alone, that she found herself in such a situation on one of these eliffs that she was compelled to tie her under-clothing together for a rope to let herself down the cliff. This was exciting enough to finish . the story, but it did not. She was unable to recover her clothing, and left it hanging over the cliff. Some subsequent explorers discovering these relies, raised a fearful excitement over the supposed fate of some fair one who had committed suicide. The initials on the clothing betrayed the seeret. One of the most interesting objects in the county, and not exceeded by anything of the kind in the world, is, or bas been the
BIG GRAPEVINE.
This remarkable vegetable production grew upon the land of a small Spanish rancher, of whom the place was bought by Mr. Sarver, of Canton, Ohio, who utilized his possessions by erecting a place of entertainment beneath the shade of the monster vine. After a few years the vine was seen to be slowly dying, when it was taken up, eut into seetions and transported to the Centennial Exhibition, as related in Chapter XXV.
Although pre-eminently refined and peaceful at present, Montecito has not always owned that dis-
tinction. No longer ago than 1873 the valley was the abode of turbulent and lawless characters, con- cerning whom the following extract from the Santa Barbara Press of August 9th, of that year, is a sort of conclusion of the acts of a community of which the history is yet to be written.
OLD MONTECITO.
" Montecito has lately become a sort of headquar- ters for a number of vagabonds and horse-thieves, and they have been stealing with impunity, several horses having disappeared within a few days. The Sheriff is off, we hear, on an electioneering tour to the upper end of the county, and the people have determined to rid themselves of these loose charac- ters. Accordingly they have organized a vigilance committee and gone to work. The marauders are nearly all native Californians, we are told, and it will not do for the Sheriff to make a raid on them just before an election. We do not believe in vig- ilance committees, but in this case the people seem compelled to organize in self-defense."
THE CARPENTERIA VALLEY.
Proceeding eastward along the coast road from Montecito, the traveler comes next to the Carpente- ria, a valley similar in most respects to that just deseribed, and in point of fertility is perhaps supe- rior. Through it passes the Carpenteria Creek, which derived its name from the existence of a carpenter's shop in its vicinity. The custom of giving expres- sive names is common with the greater majority of the people of Spanish extraction. Rincon means corner; and Montecito, a little hill or forest.
The first family to settle in the Carpenteria was the Taylors. The habit of the rancheros who occu- pied lands therein at that time was to pass the rainy season in town, removing in the spring to the ranches, and spending a part of the year in the pur- suit of agriculture. This programme the Taylors were the first to discard, finding it to their interest to remain in the valley. Mrs. Taylor, it may be said, was born in the county, being the daughter of a soldier. The accommodations of that era were hardly so complete as are commonly found in the comfortable homes now common there. The most frequent style of dwelling at that date was the hacal, a stick and mud shanty, called also remeda. Since the advent of the Taylors numerous aceessions of intelligent and progressive agriculturists have set- tled in the vicinity, until now there is a community of people who stand second to those of no other part of Southern California in refinement. It is recorded that Henry J. Dally, of New York, arrived in Car- penteria in 1853, but probably never was identified with its history in any degree beyond the fact of his marrying a native Californian woman who then kept an eating-house where Mr. Sutton now resides. The resulting family still live in the county, Mrs. King, of Carpenteria, being one of the children. The father was an otter hunter by occupation. At the time mentioned Henry MeDonough is said to have resided
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in the valley, and to have had a Spanish family also, but the details of his residence are not now procura- ble.
Mr. Russel Heath came in 1858, at which time many families from' Santa Barbara passed the summer in Carpenteria Valley. Henry Lewis followed Mr. H., to be in turn followed by S. N. Olmstead in 1863, who now resides in Los Angeles County. This gentle- man's wife was a school teacher. On the organization of school districts Carpenteria was included within the Montecito District, the first Board of Trustees of which was composed of William Benn, Henry Lewis, and Russel Heath. Captain Thompson was County Superintendent of Schools. In the year succeeding his arrival, Mr. Heath entered upon the culture of fruit, having, in common with Albert Packard, the honor of systematically initiating that branch of industry. Setting out a few trees in 1859, by the following year he had cleared considerable ground and planted quite extensively, his vineyard then con- taining 10,000 vines. Establishing a nursery of almonds in 1860, these"trees were planted out as rapidly as land could be eleared for the purpose from its orig- inal dense underbrush and live-oaks. Through the exertions of a strong force of men, his large ranch has been brought to its present high state of eulti- vation.
Mr. Heath's specialty is walnuts, of which he has the largest orchard in the State of California. For the purpose of extending the growth of these trees, the Colonel has removed hundreds of thrifty almond trees. The walnuts are set out about forty feet apart each way, and oceupy a tract of over forty acres. The farm is most completely fitted up with a drying- house for curing the fruit, which is 18x36 feet; a wine-house, of 26x100 feet and three stories high, and all other desirable conveniences. Mneh exeel- lent wine is here produced, a superior quality of port being manufactured. The farm was purchased at the rate of $10.00 per aere in 1858, was worth from $100 to $150 per aere in 1877, and has now at- tained a much higher value. This place is pointed to as one of the grandest sueeesses of agriculture in Southen California.
These pioneer settlers report that the valley had previously been occupied by the Mission Fathers as a garden, the Mexican troops also deriving sus- tenance in part from it, and the earlier English- speaking settlers have recollections of a considera- ble settlement of native Californians within it. These early settlers had left mementoes of their occupancy in the shape of willow fences, or hedges, the trees of which had grown to the size of a man's body. Until the year 1860 the carpenter shop referred to was the scene of activity in the manufacture of eart- wheels and ox-yokes from the fine sycamores which then grew in the neighborhood. It is hardly neces- sary to remark to those who understand Spanish- American enstoms, that there wheels were solid see- tions of a thick tree, sawn across, and were perhaps
thirty inches or more in diameter by at least a foot in thiekness.
Carpenteria had been an election precinct in 1852, and continued to enjoy that distinction until 1860.
Mr. William Benn settled in Carpenteria in 1873, having previously resided in Montecito since 1856.
Of the later comers, Henry Lewis arrived on May 28, 1862, and settled in what was called the Orria Toro. One of his neighbors was E. S. Lowery, now of San Buenaventura. In 1867 came J. H. Blood, who immediately located on his present place, where he has thirty acres of orchard, of which a part is devoted to walnuts, which were put ont in 1875. Canning fruit is one of the important industries prac- ticed by Mr. Blood, his production of apricots reach- ing 4,000 cans, the fruit being derived from an orchard of 600 trees.
J. N. Vanee went to Carpenteria in 1867, settling on Willow Creek, otherwise ealled Vanee Cañon, in the following year. He is a great hunter, and recounts many thrilling stories of encounters with the bears and other wild animals which were form- erly exceedingly numerous, although as yet far from extinct. In the earlier times encounters of this sort were matters of course. and quite to be expected.
W. S. CALLIS.
William Sterling Callis was born in Mecklenburg County, Virginia, September 20, 1825, being the son of Henry B. and Sarah Spain Callis. The schools of Mecklenburg supplied the education necessary for business purposes. The parents being farmers, the son grew up to the same pursuit, which he has eon- tinued through life, now cultivating a choice tract of fifty acres near the ocean shore, by Carpenteria, one of the loveliest localities of Santa Barbara County. The life of Mr. Callis appears to have been one of many homes, his parents first moving, in 1835, to Tennessee, thence, four years later, to Kentucky. There the father died, and subsequently the family moved to Texas. Tarrying in the Lone Star State for a period of five years, Mr. Callis sought the far- ther West, crossing the plains with ox-teams through a toilsome journey of seven months, settling in Santa Barbara County, which pleasant region has sinee been his home. Mr. Callis enjoys a life of single blessedness in his home by the sea. A view of the place, with the broad Pacifie in the distance, is seen in this volume.
THOMAS C. CALLIS
Was born in Logan County, Kentucky, May 26, 1844, his parents being Henry and Lueinda Jane Callis, the latter still living near her son, at the ripe age of 73 years. The family lived in Kentucky until 1849, when they removed to Texas, and in 1852 eon- tinued their westward journey to the shores of the Pacifie, settling in Santa Barbara County in 1853. Ilere they engaged in farming and stoek-raising, thus continuing the occupation pursned in their for- mer Eastern homes. Their place of residence was
RESIDENCE, & RANCH OF W. S. CALLIS, CARPENTERIA, SANTA BARBARA CO. CAL.
RESIDENCE & RANCH OF THOS C. CALLIS, CARPENTERIA, SANTA BARBARA CO. CAL.
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Montecito, where they remained for a period of ten years, the years of childhood and youth to Thomas C. in attending the public schools and mixing with the society of the country, of which he was very fond.
From Montecito Mr. Callis moved to Carpenteria, where he has since resided, the owner of a fine farm of sixty-seven acres, located convenient to a wharf, within sound of the ever-beating surf, and where the temperate winds of the broad ocean ever bear their pleasant and healthful influences.
Mr. Callis was married December 24, 1866, in Santa Barbara, to Miss Martha Benn, eldest daughter of William and Ann Benn, the wedding being at the Court House, and was noted as being at the first Christmas tree in Santa Barbara. From this happy union, commencing under such auspicious circumstances, has sprung a family of nine children, there being two girls and seven boys. Being a public-spirited man, as well as having a large family of children, Mr. Callis has taken an active and effi- cient interest in the public schools, of which he has been a Trustee for the past ten years or more. Such a position, well filled, where the duties are held as sacred, and no hope of profit, reflects a higher honor on a man than the election, by questionable means, to a remunerative office of the highest class, and is a proof of the esteem in which he is held by his fellow- citizens. A view of Mr. Callis' place is seen on another page.
The post-office was established in 1868. In that year came
O. N. CADWELL,
Who settled on his present place, called " Pomona's Retreat," adjoining Mr. Heath's on the north. Here Mr. Cadwell has twenty-seven acres of orchard, embracing quite a variety of excellent fruit trees, besides which are three acres of vines. The first trees were set out in 1869, some of which, by a judi- cious system of planting and improving, the owner has brought to a high state of cultivation. By con- tinual experiment the gentleman has produced im- proved varieties to such an extent as to produce beneficial effects on horticulture throughout the whole section. The property is supplied with water from a creek two miles distant, which furnishes an ample supply the whole year round. The house, and in fact the whole ranch, is completely sheltered from injurious winds by the mountains, which almost completely encircle it. The soil is porons and rich, and well adapted to fruit culture.
FARMERS -IN 1869.
The principal land-owners of Carpenteria cultivated in the year 1869, 1,214 acres, the principal divisions being thus given in the Post :---
" Vilva, 140 acres; Nidever, 85; W. S. Callis, 25; Blood, 140; Lewis, 85; Vance, 35; 'Frenchy,' 30; Pico, 15; Domingo, 20; Frenchmen, 10; Estorga, 10; José Ruiz, 17; Carlos Ruiz, 25; Smith, 10; Cota, 15;
Espinosa, 15; - , 15; Heath, 75; T. C. Callis, 35; Benn, 10; M. Callister, 40; Cadwell, 12; Juan Rod- rignez. 60; Carlos, 20; Doty, 60; Franklin, 50; Ar- rellanes, 15; Lambert, 30; Olmstead, 150; Sanchez, 50."
MR. CRANE'S RANCH,
Lying two miles distant from Capenteria, towards Santa Barbara, consists of seventy-three acres of fine bottom land, located on the very edge of the cliffs overhanging the beach. The owner came into pos- session of the property in 1871, and devotes it to the culture of corn, beets and sorghum. In an ordinary year the corn crop, says the owner, amounts to sev- enty-five bushels per acre, sometimes reaching as high as ninety bushels; the beet crops are alike enormous, far exceeding the yield in Central California, where forty tons is an extraordinary yield. Sorghum, used for cattle feed, gives easily two crops per year, and is highly esteemed as a milk-producing feed.
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