USA > California > Santa Barbara County > History of Santa Barbara county, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 93
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The Santa Clara Valley above Santa Paula is nar- row and tortuous, with but a meagre amount of arable land; below, it spreads out into a stretch of nearly level area, which is approximately outlined by an isosceles triangle whose longest side extends from San Buenaventura to Point Magu, the southern- most point of the county, about twenty-four miles, and whose apex is at Santa Paula, distant from each of the above points about thirteen miles in direet lines. The upper Santa Clara Valley contains the rancho Sespe, occupying its lower and eentral por- tion, parts of the San Francisco and the Camulos Ranchos, next to the eastern eounty boundary line, and Government lands. The lower valley, bordering on the ocean, comprises the ranchos San Miguel, Santa Paula y Saticoy, Santa Clara del Norte, La Colonia and part of Guadalasea, and Government lands. Through the hills which skirt the eastern flank of the main expanse oceanward of the Santa Clara Valley, two fine valleys display their sinuous
lengths of wooded hills and cultivated dells. The more northerly of these lies just over the hills from, and to the south of the upper Santa Clara Valley, and contains the Las Posas and Simi Ranchos. South of this again is the El Conejo Valley, embracing the ranchos Calleguas, El Conejo, and the upper end of the Guadalasea. The distorted, jagged Santa Barbara Mountains come elose down to the channel of the Santa Clara on the north, while on the southern slope, above Santa Paula, the hills are much lower and eroded into more rounded outlines, though still, for a great part, untillable. The northern slopes are set with groves of live-oak and pine; the southern are covered with grass, flowers, and the honey-bear- ing sage. The prevailing trees along the water- courses are sycamore, walnut, cottonwood, and some inferior varieties of pine.
The soil north of the Santa Clara, and also the whole valley above Santa Paula, is a dark loam of the strongest kind, adapted to the eultivation of almost every grain, vegetable, fruit and flower. Ex- tending along the channel of the Santa Clara, above Santa Paula, is a traet of sand about one mile wide and twelve miles long. The soil of the lower main valley, south of the river, varies from sandy to adobe.
Grain generally succeeds in the Santa Clara Valley without irrigation; but once turn on the water and a tropical luxurianee is the invariable result. The eli- matic conditions are such that the land, with proper irrigation, regularly produees two crops each year. As illustrating the resources of the soil, it may be stated that Mr. John F. Cummings, in the present year, took off a erop of barley of twenty sacks per acre from a piece of land which has not been plowed for five years, the grain having volunteered year after year. Mr. Cummings pastured it this year until March, intending to plow it up; but as soon as the stock was taken off, the barley eame forward so vig- orously that he concluded to let it alone.
From forty to sixty aeres thoroughly cultivated, yield a support sufficient to the needs of a medium- sized family. Corn has produced 140 bushels to the acre without irrigation. and will average fifty. Bar- ley fifty and wheat forty bushels to the acre are not unusual returns, without irrigation. Corn is the prin- cipal product, as in many places the wild mustard, which grows ten feet high, crowds out other grains. Odessa and White Russian wheat are rust-proof, and henee best adapted to the soil and elimate. It is stated that from one grain of wheat, thirty-two stalks grew to a height of four and a half feet. Under favorable eireumstances hay has averaged five tons to the acre. Lima beans have been cultivated to some extent. In 1871, Captain Mayhew planted 100 acres to them.
Sheep and cattle-raising is an important industry; and of late years hog-culture has rapidly assumed extensive proportions. Messrs. Everett, Cummings, Chrisman, Wall, Hill, White, Sewell and Gries make
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a specialty of hog-raising, and have spared no pains in procuring the best-blooded hogs in the county. Messrs. Everett & Cummings, living near Saticoy, are said to have the best breeds of Poland-China and Berkshires in California. To
JOSEPH H. M'CUTCHAN
Also, the valley is largely indebted for raising the business to the basis of a science by the introduction of choice breeds.
This gentleman is a native of Virginia, born in Augusta County, March 23, 1839. There he resided during his youth and early manhood, acquiring such an education as the schools of that country afforded. As a Virginia farmer, he passed a quiet life until the eventful period of the War of the Rebellion, when the social condition of the State was revolutionized. In 1866, Mr. McCutchan emigrated to California, and located in Tulare County, where he remained for ten years, engaged in farming and stock-raising. In 1876 he left Tulare County, and made his home in Ven- tura, locating on a place available for his business, about two miles west of the village of Santa Paula, a view of the residence and surroundings being given in this work. Since Mr. McCutehan's residence in Ventura, he has paid great attention to improved breeds of swine, the rearing of which has constituted his principal business, farming and cattle-raising be- ing carried on as a collateral business. He has intro- duced the Poland-China breed, with which he has made a success. His other stock and his business op- erations receive particular care, and his general pros- perity is evident. Mr. McCutchan was married No- vember 22, 1865, to Miss Fannie Nicely, a native of Virginia. They have no children.
FRUIT-RAISING.
The fruits raised successfully in this valley, include all those of the temperate and many of the tropical zone. When sheltered from the wind, peaches, apples, pears, quinces, grapes, figs, oranges, lemons, limes and olives grow to a rare perfection, while the loquot, guava and fruit of the date palm reach full maturity.
The bee business is an important industry. The annual product in favorable years, in the whole county, is about 750,000 pounds, from about 4,500 colonies of bees .*
Indications of oil measures are found everywhere in the mountains about the Santa Clara Valley; and much capital has been spent in developing them. Ex- tensive asphaltum and sulphur deposits are found. These mineral productions are fully treated in an- other chapter. There are numerous irrigating ditches in the Upper Santa Clara Valley, notably that of the Farmers' Canal and Water Company, at Santa Paula; that on the Sespe Rancho, and the Santa Clara Diteh at Springville. There is an abundance of water in the
Santa Clara River, four miles above Santa Paula, to irrigate all the agricultural land between the river and the ex-Mission IFills, Santa Paula and the sea- which, if properly utilized, would make this vast tract of choice land the garden spot of the county.
In the southwestern part of the valley, artesian wells, constructed at a comparatively small cost, fur- nish an ample supply of water. Good water for drinking purposes is found only in favored localities, and is often peddled out by the barrel from house to house. However, it is affirmed that the best of water can always be found in wells below 100 feet in depth. The Santa Clara River and tributaries furnish abun- dant first-class water-power, which awaits utilization.
The climate is what might be predicted from the physical features of the country. The mountains, which, above the city of San Buenaventura, hng the coast so closely, at that point break away, and leave a wide stretch of low shore line until Point Magu, the lowest point of the county, is reached. Twenty-five miles of open coast exposes a large interior country to the equalizing influence that the Pacific Ocean ex- erts on climate. Hence, in the lower Santa Clara Valley, the range of temperature is but small, being neither hot nor cold. In the upper Santa Clara, Simi and Guadalasca Valleys, further in the interior, the range is greater. Indeed, at Santa Paula, snow has been known to fall, and the thermometer has regis- tered 108ยบ. Such freaks of the weather are, however, very rare. Probably this part of the county has more than its average of windy days; whenever the direction of the air current is the same as that of the valley, a strong breeze sweeps through it. Here occurs one of nature's compensations. Such is the size and strength which the grain stalks attain from the rich soil, that grain fields are seldom prostrated.
Most of the towns of the county are within this district, and the county seat lies but two miles beyond its northwestern point. Santa Paula guards the entrance to the upper Santa Clara Valley; Saticoy is on the road between San Buenaventura and Santa Paula, eight miles from the former place; Hueneme is at the landing place of the same name, twelve miles southeast of the county seat; Springville is a thriving town in Pleasant Valley; Scenega post-office is in the upper Santa Clara Valley; Newbury Park post-office is on the El Conejo Rancho, and Jerusa- lem, an embryo village, lies eight miles east of San Buenaventura, on the Santa Clara River.
Roads penetrate every part of the valley that needs them. The sea outlets are San Buenaventura and Hueneme. From these points steamers ply to San Francisco and intermediate ports. Before com- petition had reduced wharfage and freight rates to a reasonable basis, the prosperity of the country was seriously affected by the lack of a paying market. Barley has been known to sell at fifty cents per cental, under such circumstances, and pork at two cents per pound.
Stages run daily from San Buenaventura, via Sati-
* Some persons have estimated the product at one thousand tons, but the figures in the text are probably nearer correct.
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coy, Santa Paula and Scenega, to Newhall, on the Southern Pacific Railroad, fifty miles; daily to Santa Barbara, thirty miles; tri-weekly to Los Angeles, via Hueneme, Springville, and daily to Nordhoff, the famous resort, fifteen miles.
Land in all parts, and in tracts to suit, may always be found for sale in the market, generally at reason- able rates. The Santa Paula y Saticoy Rancho was subdivided and offered for sale in 1867, on such favor- able terms that a large number of enterprising and industrious families embraced the opportunity to build themselves homes. Among them was
ABNER HAINES.
He was born in Saco, York County, Maine, Octo- ber 10, 1823. There he spent his youth and early manhood, attending the public schools and absorbing the knowledge those institutions are prepared to impart. He remained in the old " Pine Tree " State until he was thirty years of age, when he was seized with the California fever, the only cure for which was travel. In mature years, in the prime of a vig- orous manhood, he was well prepared to venture upon a new career, to brave the hardships of a life in a new land, and to win in the contest for wealth. In 1853 he decided to go to the gold mines of California, where many thousands had gone before, who were then send- ing to the East some five millions of dollars monthly, and arousing the wonder of the world. Taking the steamer via Panama. he arrived in San Francisco in due time, and immediately proceeded to the mining region of the Sierra Nevada. The precious metal was not so readily gathered as he had imagined when reading of the many millions that concen- trated in the shipments by steamer, and after three years' trial he concluded that fortune and happi- ness could more surely be secured in gathering the annual crop than in robbing the earth of its treas- ure by one despoiling process. With his earnings in the gold mines, he went, in 1857, to Sutter County, and there secured a section of land and became a farmer. There he continued, in the culti- vation of his farm and raising cattle, until 1867, when he removed to the Santa Clara Valley and purchased the farm of 190 acres on the Santa Paula Rancho, where he now resides. [See illustration on another page.] This place is situated about three miles west of the village of Santa Paula, and is well adapted for the cultivation of almost every plant or fruit that the heart of man can desire. Mr. Haines was married, in 1863, to Miss Charlotte Goodman, a native of Maine, and they are now blessed with two daughters.
SAN MIGUEL RANCHO
Lies in the extreme western part of the Santa Clara Valley. The ocean forms its sonthwestern boundary, Rancho ex-Mission San Buenaventura its northwestern, Rancho Saticoy y Santa Paula its
northeastern, and Rancho La Colonia its southeast- ern boundary, this latter being separated from it by the channel of the Santa Clara River. It was granted to Raymundo Olivas, July 6, 1841, and con- tained 4,693.91 acres. The surface of the land, for the greater part, has a gentle slope back from the sea, along which it borders for about four miles. It is nearly all rich, arable land. Dixie W. Thompson owns 2,400 acres of it, lying nearest San Buena- ventura, 1,700 acres of which he has under cultiva- tion. The original grantee, now a venerable octa- genarian, still retains possession of the southeastern half, which is sown mostly with barley and planted with corn. His home, a long, modernized adobe, is suugly perched in the midst of a delightful grove, upon a commanding eminence near the Santa Clara River. Here, under the shade of a magnificent fig- tree, warmly seconded by his well-preserved wife, herself a sexegenarian, and surrounded by forty-three descendants, eighteen of whom are their immediate children, he dispenses a hearty hospitality. His hos- pitality has been referred to on page 48 of this volume.
GEORGE G. SEWELL.
This gentleman is a native of the State of New York, born at Glens Fall, Warren County, February 24, 1819. In this most romantic section of the " Em- pire State," young Sewell grew to manhood, attending its schools and academy until he had acquired a good education. In 1844, when twenty-five years of age, he emigrated, going to the new and rising Territory of Wisconsin, where for six years he was engaged alternatly in teaching school and farming. The ex- citing tales of California gold mining aroused him to another moving, and in the fall of 1850 he left Wisconsin for the Pacific Coast, taking the long and dangerous voyage via New York and Cape Horn, making the passage in the ship Helena, Captain Land, arriving in San Francisco in March, 1851. He came in search of the native gold and to the mines he con- tinucd his journey. Washing for gold in El Dorado and Placer Counties engaged his attention for one year, and he then engaged in farming on Auburn Ravine, near where the town of Lincoln was subsequently built. The locality was one of the best farming re- gions of the great Sacramento Valley, and Mr. Sewell continued a farmer for sixteen years. In 1867, he was nominated on the Republican ticket for the posi- tion of County Clerk of Placer County, and at the election, which was held September 4, 1867, was chosen to the office, receiving 1,820 votes, and his opponent, W. H. Kruger, a Democrat, 1,615 votes. This was a very spirited contest when the State went Democratic, electing H. H. Haight Governor over George C. Gorham by a large majority. Mr. Sewell was re- elected to the same position in 1869, over J. W. Chinn, by a majority of seventy-two votes, thus holding the office through two terms, of two years each, vacating it in 1872. After leaving office, he resided in the city
RESIDENCE AND RANCH OF GEO. G. SEWELL, SANTA PAULA, VENTURA CO.CAL.
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RESIDENCE AND RANCH OF S. T. WELLS, SATICOY, VENTURA CO. CAL.
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of Sacramento one year, and in 1873 removed to and settled in Ventura County, on the E. S. Wooley place, where he has since made his home, heavily engaged in farming and stock-raising. He owns some of the best blooded hogs in the county. Mr. Sewell's farm comprises an area of 800 acres, about one-half of which is choice valley land, and the balance low hills, well adapted to grazing. Fine improvements and a high state of enltivation attest the taste and enterprise of the owner. Mr. Sewell's residence is comfortable and elegant, and has the most sightly location of any in the neighborhood, being on the foot-hills several hundred feet above the valley, one mile west of Santa Paula. A view of his place is given in this volume. Mr. Sewell was married January 10, 1858, to Miss Eliza :P. Rich, a native of Vermont.
THE SANTA PAULA Y SATICOY RANCHO
Is a desirable tract of land, extending from the San Miguel Rancho to the Sespe Rancho, abont twelve miles, with an average width of two miles between the Santa Clara River on the southeast, and the lofty ex-Mission hills on the northwest. Its upper por- tion laps over the river channel, including a narrow strip of its southern slope. It is one of the choicest pieces of land in the county. Its advantages are not obscure, and, as a consequence, it was one of the earliest settled ranchos, and is now the most thickly populated section of the county.
LITIGATION OF THE SANTA PAULA Y SATICOY.
The original grant was to Manuel Jimeno, April 28, 1840, its boundaries being deseribed as follows :--
" From the Arroyo Mupu, Santa Paula Creek, on the east, to the small mountain on the west, and from the small mountain (supposed to be Sulphur Mountain) on the north to the Positas on the south."
Jimeno took possession in 1840, and in 1843 his grant was approved by the Departmental Assembly. In 1847, Jimeno petitioned the Alcalde, Pablo de la Guerra, for judicial possession. The neighboring owners were called to witness the ceremony, and to recognize the boundaries. Possession was given to about 30,000 acres.
Jimeno's grantee, J. P. Davidson, under Act of March 3, 1851, appeared before the Commission, and had his land, as before described, confirmed to him. A survey was ordered, and in December, 1860. the first Terrel survey was made, covering 17,773.33 aeres of land. This survey was approved February 25, 1861, and set aside in June, 1862. Another sur- vey was made and approved by the Surveyor-Gen- eral, in accordance with the decree of confirmation, April 8. 1864. This was the second Terrel survey, and contained 48,821 acres. It was also approved by the United States District Court, August 11. 1864. An appeal was taken to the United States Supreme Court, Judge Field presiding, which court reversed
the mandate and judgment of the lower court, and ordered that the official survey of the land confirmed to the claimants, the first one made by J. E. Terrel, be approved and confirmed, as the correct and true location of the land claimed under the Jimeno grant. Under this decree, a patent was issued to about 17,000 acres of land, April 22, 1871, without fur- ther survey. The ex-Mission people claim that this survey concludes or limits the rights of A. P. More, and parties claiming under the Jimeno grant. A. P. More and attorney, however. claim that the second survey having been set aside, no practical survey exists, leaving the question open, and that thus they are not bound to limit their claims to 17,000 acres. The Jimeno grantees claim that as their title is the oldest, it must hold to the exclusion of the Poli title, whenever the lines conflict.
The name of this rancho is derivedin part from the Saticoy tribe of Indians, that dwelt here in early times, before the advent of their white brothers. Captian Lewis was one of their latter chiefs, when the band did not number more than thirty. Old adobes built by them are still standing. They made their headquarters at the Saticoy Springs, upon what is now the farm of the
REV. SAMUEL TAGGART WELLS.
Of this venerable and distinguished gentleman it may justly be said, that but few people have lived more active and useful lives. Hle was born at Green- field, Franklin County, Massachusetts, Angust 6, 1809. His ancestors were of the pioneer, New Eng- land stock, tracing their lineage far back among the noble names of England, the family tree showing such names as Welles, Wellesley, and other changes of the spelling, the same root being common to all. Many historical characters have appeared in the family, the Duke of Wellington. in England, and Gideon Welles, Secretary of the Navy under Lineoln, being noted examples.
When six years of age, the parents of Mr. Wells removed to the then far West, locating in Genesee Connty, New York. At that time the Genesee Val- ley was but sparsely settled, and Rochester, now the great city of that region, was then but a three-year- old village. But western New York filled rapidly with New England people. and villages, churches and schools became common. In this young and vigorons community, Mr. Wells passed the years of his youth. His early education was obtained in the neighboring county of Wyoming, where he prepared for college. A classical education was not as easily obtained at that time, as at present; high schools and universi- ties were not then free to all, and only those who really desired and intended to lead a professional life, made the sacrifices, expended the means, or ex- erted the energy necessary to acquire a knowledge of the languages. When thus obtained, a collegiate education was thorough and complete, obtained for a specific purpose, and gave the graduate a distinction
51
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HISTORY OF VENTURA COUNTY.
with a meaning. In 1834, Mr. Wells entered Union College, at Schenectady, New York, where, after the usual course of four years, he graduated with honor. Before the days of State Universities, Union College ranked as one of the first educational institu- tions of the United States, and its alumni are among the ablest men of the world. The young graduate upon leaving college, selected the clerical profession for his life's vocation, and soon thereafter entered the Princeton Theological Seminary, and took a full theo- logical course. Upon graduating, he was licensed by the Presbytery of New York, and in the spring of 1843 was ordained as minister in the Presbyterian Church. At the same time he was commissioned by the American Tract Society as general agent, to promote the colporteur enterprise in the West. The establish- ment of agencies of the society, and the distribution and sale of its books and tracts engaged his attention for many subsequent years, calling into exercise his energy, business ability, and his devotion to the cause he had espoused. His first service as colpor- teur was in Missouri, but in October, 1843, he removed to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, which he made the headquarters of his colporteur enterprise, and his home for the succeeding twelve years.
In 1855 be was appointed synodical missionary for the State of Iowa, where, in the first three years he organized some sixteen Presbyterian churches in the northern part of the State. In 1860 he was com- missioned by the Presbyterian Board of Publication to proceed to California, to establish the colporteur enter- prise in that State. During the first two years of his California experience but little could be accomplished, as the great Civil War was raging, which engaged the attention of the people. In the interim, however, Dr. Scott of San Francisco, having left his church without a pastor, Mr. Wells was called to supply the place for a period of nearly one year, until the arrival of Rev. Dr. Wadsworth, who had been secured as the successor of Dr. Scott. During the following two years, the war still continuing and interfering with his business, Mr. Wells preached regularly at San Lorenzo and Haywards, in Alameda County. During this period he saw the necessity of establishing a large and improved cemetery at the growing city of Oakland, and conceived the plan of the Mountain View Cemetery at that place, which is now one of the best arranged and handsomest resting places of the dead in California. Mr. Wells being familiar with cemetery organization in the East, obtained the co-operation and influence of wealthy nien in Oak- land, and organized an association that insured suc- cess. The association employed Frederick Law Olmstead, one of the finest landscape gardeners in the world, to superintend the laying out and orna- menting of Mountain View, and his ability is attested by the result.
Notwithstanding the many obstacles encountered, Mr. Wells, in six years, succeeded in circulating $22,-
000 worth of the Board's publications. This was very satisfactory to the management. In one of the Annual Reports of the American Tract Society, Mr. Wells is mentioned as the most able manager of the colporteur enterprise in the United States.
In 1869, Mr. Wells purchased for his eldest son a ranch of nearly six hundred acres, situated near Sat- icoy in Ventura County. The son, however, being interested in mines, did not take immediate possession, and the ranch has since been leased save for two years. In the spring of 1878, Mr. Wells, while pass- ing through San Buenaventura, en route to his farm, was solicited to take charge of the Presbyterian Church in that place, it being at that time in a very depressed condition, struggling under an indebted- ness of $1,600, the membership decreasing, and but little life or interest manifested in it. Mr. Wells, with his characteristic courage and energy, accepted the charge and labored with the church three years and three months, until October, 1881, when he resigned his position. He was then placed on the Committee of Supplies, and obtained as his successor the Rev. Frederick D. Seward, an enterprising and gifted young man. He left the church clear of debt and in a prosperous condition, with increasing mem- bership.
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