USA > California > Santa Barbara County > History of Santa Barbara county, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 67
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Irrigation is only practiced with the lemon and orange trees, whose yield is much increased by it. The necessary water is taken from the near mount-
ain streams referred to, and is carried to various parts of the estate, through pipes, of which there are not less than eight miles. The ranch is ordinarily stocked with about 100 horses and mules, with a corresponding number of fine milch cows, a large number of hogs, sheep, etc. The proprietor's priu- cipal sheep interests are in the Refugio, San Julian, and other ranches to the northwest.
From twenty-five to fifty men are always employed upon the place, embracing nearly every nationality. The necessities of the place demand the regular services of carpenters, blacksmiths, butchers, and others, who are hired by the year. A brickyard has been estab- lished, and there is a dry-house for bleaching almonds and drying fruits by means of hot air. The barn is 60x100 feet in dimensions, with a large basement beneath. The carriage-house is a two-story build- ing, sixty feet square, containing tank for watering horses, and apartments where horses, carriages and harness may be cleaned by the action of a hose- stream, while the floor is so constructed as to allow the water to pass through into the drain. There are several tenement houses upon the estate, an office for the Colonel's private secretary, and a school house for the tuition of children. A professional gardener was employed to lay out the grounds around the two residences, with a result in the highest degree satis- factory. No imagination can conceive a scene of greater beauty than is here presented to the view. The botanical treasures of every clime have been concentrated here in such bewildering variety and magical luxuriance and beauty as to defy every attempt at adequate description.
ELLWOOD.
Adjoining Col. Hollister's place on the west is the splendid estate of Ellwood Cooper, em- bracing about 2,000 acres, and like its neighbor, lying between the mountains and the sea, and like it being a part of the Dos Pueblos grant. When, in 1870, Mr. Cooper commenced operations here, he found the place in a state of nature, substantially untouched by the hand of man. For the past twelve years he has continued the work of improving the place, bringing nearly all of it under cultivation, and establishing extensive almond and olive plantations. He has also done much in beautifying the place, and rendering it in this respect not unworthy of comparison with any other establishment in the State. As early as 1878, Mr. Cooper had planted out 25,000 eucalypti, 12,500 almonds, 4,000 English walnuts, 3,500 olive trees, besides 200 fig, and 400 other fruit trees, including cherry, apple, plum, peach, nectarine, etc., with a few orange and lemon trees; also 200 vines.
EUCALYPTUS.
In the matter of eucalypti, Mr. Cooper, it may be said, was the first to introduce this valuable tree in Southern California. His ranch is nearly encircled by them. The public highway or avenue passing
* The al non1 is not generally considered a success, the expense of har- vesting and cleaning being too great.
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SUBURBS OF SANTA BARBARA.
through Ellwood is bordered by splendid rows of them, now eight years old; and numerous other groves and rows of these trees abound. The whole length of the rows amounts to seven miles, the trees aggregating 150,000. The common blue gum and red gum predominate, but about fifty varieties are growing. Within a few years one of the blue gums had attained a diameter of sixteen inches and a height of sixty-five feet. Mr. Cooper's experiments and example were of vast benefit to the State, so devoid of timber, and his efforts extended to the publication of a meritorious hand-book of forestry, entitled " Forest Culture and Eucalyptus Trees."
OLIVE OIL.
Later Mr. Cooper has conferred great benefits upon this section by his researches into olive culture, of which he may be said to be the apostle. In 1873 Mr. Cooper planted his first olive trees, his subsequent experience verifying his former opinion thus ex- pressed: " I look upon the olive as the most impor- tant tree for the southern part of the State, and it seems to me that no industry can be pursued with such important results as olive-growing." The olive is said to have been first brought to California by Don Josef de Galvez, in 1769, the year of the start- ing of the expedition to re-discover and settle the country. These seeds were planted at the various missions and were found to prosper. Many of the very old olive trees which resulted are still in bearing, one at San Diego Mission producing as high as 150 gallons of fruit in favorable years. Only one species was known to the priests. The hardiness of these plants realized what Virgil wrote nineteen centuries ago: " The olives require no culture, nor do they ex- peet the crooked pruning-hook and tenacious harrow, when once they are rooted in the ground and have stood the blasts. Earth herself supplies the plants with moisture when opened by the hooked tooth of the drag, and weighty fruits when opened by the share. Nurture for thyself, with this, the fat and peace-delighting olive."
A portion of Mr. Cooper's work has been in the importation of foreign varieties, to add to the old Mission olives, which are inferior in some respects, although extremely hardy, and very valuable as a stock upon which to graft or bud more prolifie vari- eties.
The olive tree belongs to the jasmine family, with evergreen foliage, small blossoms in clusters, and hav- ing some likeness to the elder-tree, flowering in June. It can be propagated in many ways, but the best way is by planting the seeds, and it is one which is prac- tieed least. Except in damp soils where its roots rot, the olive grows everywhere. It accustoms itself to both dry and wet climates. Clay and mud are indifferent to it. Its long life is proverbial. In re- turn it takes thirty years, a man's life-time, before it reaches its full capacity for bearing fruit. Of this
tree, one of the most valuable gifts of nature, there exist sixteen or seventeen species, all exotic. Its fruit is oval, fleshy, with a hard woody seed enclos- ing a kernel. The meat, fine, and covered with a green skin before maturity, softens and becomes a purplish black in ripening; it is then that they grind them in the mill, then put them in a press to extract the oil. This article of food is universally used. The most important thing is to get it pure. Unfor- tunately on account of the cheapness of oils made from seeds and nuts of different kinds, commerce has adulterated olive oil as it has so many other articles. Oils made of peanuts, sesame, cotton, and poppy seeds are sold by millions of kilogrammes under the name of olive oil.
The common method of propagation is by cuttings taken from the growing trees of sound wood, from three-quarters of an inch in diameter, to one and a half inches, and from fourteen to sixteen inches long. These cuttings should be taken from the trees during the months of December and January, neatly trimmed, without bruising, and carefully trenehed in loose sandy soil. A shady place is preferred. They should be planted in permanent sites from February 20th to March 20th, depending upon the season. The ground should be well prepared and sufficiently dry, so that there is no mud, and the weather warm. In Santa Barbara near the coast no irrigation is necessary; but very frequent stirring of the top soil with a hoe or iron rake, for a considerable distance around the cuttings is necessary during the spring and sum- mer.
Trees growing from euttings will produce fruit the fourth year, and sometimes, under the most favor- able circumstances, will give a few berries the third year. It is the habit of the tree to overbear, and as a consequence will give but little fruit the year fol- lowing a heavy erop. Olive trees grown from seeds are not removed from the nursery until about seven years old; grown from cuttings, they bear in Europe as early as they do in California.
The newness and richness of our soil will probably give, the first fifty years, double the best results given in those countries, where oil-making has been the business for so many generations. Our climate is congenial to the habit of the tree; it blooms from the first to the tenth of May, and the fruit forms from the first to the tenth of June. At this season we have our best weather, free from extremes of either cold or heat. Nowhere in the world are all the conditions so favorable to the perfect fruit-bearing.
The olive usually ripens in November. In some localities in Eastern countries during favorable years, the fruit-picking for oil begins as early as October, and for pickling, in September. In Santa Barbara the crop of last year (1880), as also that of 1878, was unusually late in ripening, not being ready to pick before the middle of January-a delay of two months -the cause no doubt owing to the extraordinary
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HISTORY OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY.
rain-fall of these two years. In 1878, between the middle of February and the middle of April, there was a rain-fall of over fourteen inches, and in 1880 over eighteen inches, being more than the yearly average.
The fruit should be gathered as soon as it turns purple, and before fully ripe, as the oil will be lighter in color and more fragrant, but somewhat less in quantity.
In Europe the common method of gathering the berries is to knock them from the trees with poles; then they are picked from the ground by old men, women, children and cripples. This plan has serious objections, the fruit being more or less bruised, caus- ing decomposition, and the contact with the earth is liable to give the oil an unpleasant taste and odor- The more economical plan of gathering, is to pick from the trees by hand, and by the aid of intelligent contrivanees, an active man can pick 400 pounds each day.
The process of extracting the oil, as practiced in Santa Barbara, is simple, even to medieval rudeness. A large, broad stone wheel is held by an arm from a center-post, and, by a horse attached to this arm, is made to traverse a circular bed of solid stone. The ber- ries are thrown upon this stone bed, and are shoveled constantly in the line of the moving wheel, until they are considerably macerated, but not thoroughly so, until at a subsequent grinding, when the pits are broken. This process finished, the pulp is wrapped in coarse cloths or gunny-sacks and placed under a home-made screw or lever press. The oil and juices as they ooze through the cloth or sacks, flow into a small tank, and, as they increase, are distributed into other vessels, from the surface of which the oil is after- wards skimmed. The oil flowing from this first pres- sure is that known as virgin oil, and commands the highest price from connoisseurs of the table. Without further preparation the oil is now ready for use, ex- cept that, in order that any foreign matter may be separated from the oil, and colleeted at the bottom of the cask previous to bottling, it is set away for a time, to settle. At the Mission of Santa Barbara, the oil is stored in huge, antique pottery jars, that, ranged around the room, remind one of the celebrated scene of the jars in the story of the Forty Thieves. The second-class oil is the result of a second and more thorough crushing of the berries, in which even the pits are broken, and of a subsequent subjection of the pulp to the press. The berries are sometimes submitted to a third process of crushing, and, previous to pressure, are brought to a boiling point in huge copper kettles. The oil thus obtained is of an inferior quality, and is sold for use as a lubricator, or for the manufacture of Castile and toilet fancy soaps, and for other purposes for which it is superior to animal oils. The residue of the berries is then returned to the orchard and scattered under the trees, and, possessing
the qualities of a rich and rapid fertilizer, may be said to yield again the rich and luscious fruit i .. succeeding years.
The labor required for the olive, compared with ordinary field and garden farming, is trifling. The tree at five years old returns a slight recompense for care, and at seven should afford an average yield of about twenty gallons of berries to a tree. If there are seventy trees to an acre, there should be obtained from it one thousand four hundred gallons of berries. From twenty gallons of berries may be extracted three gallons of oil. Mr. Cooper has recently erected improved works for extracting the oil, and expects to manufacture an article much superior to the ordi- nary commercial oil, which he thinks is largely com- posed of lard oil, cotton-seed, and other animal and vegetable oils.
The mill, though somewhat after the plan of the horse-mill of primitive times, is made of cast-iron, and consists of a wheel four feet in height traveling in a cireular gutter of cast-iron, which thoroughly pulver- izes the olive berry, which has previously been dried to expel the watery particles. The old plan was to have the horse which drew the wheel travel around the mill; but the dust raised by the traveling horse sometimes fell in the mill, and perhaps communicated a flavor not altogether desirable. So Mr. Cooper has the horse-power which moves the wheel, at a safe distance. A powerful press, worked by ehains and long levers, expels the last drop of oil from the pulp. The oil is then filtered through some half a dozen different machines, which separate all the fruity and fibrinous matters, leaving the oil as pure as crystal, in a condition to keep for years.
On the Cooper estate are over twelve miles of fenc- ing, and nearly the same length of roads. The aver- age number of men employed is 15, and of work- horses and mules 50. The cereals raised are corn, barley and wheat. Alfalfa grows luxuriantly, produc- ing three erops yearly. The water for the use of the establishment is taken from a creek that issues from the contiguous mountain range, and passes near the house. Wells have been provided, and a 30,000-gallon tank for rain-water. There are ample facilities for increasing the supply to any extent, by building a suitable dam across the narrow cañon above the ranch, at a point where the sides approach nearest, thus providing storage for an immense amount of water. Mr. Cooper has found time to devote to the improvement of his live-stock, in the intervals of his important and useful employments, and has main- tained some of the choicest strains of the celebrated imported breeds; as the Devons and Alderneys among cattle, Merinos and other breeds of sheep, as well as thoroughbred horses and eolts.
All these results have been accomplished in twelve years, a space of time so short as to be utterly inade- quate to such an outcome in any other but the beau- tiful and productive Santa Barbara Valley.
RESIDENCE OF J. M. FORBES, MONTECITO, NEAR SANTA BARBARA, CAL.
RANCH & RESIDENCE OF JOHN BAILARD, CARPENTERIA, SANTA BARBARA CO. CAL.
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THE WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.
FINE ARTS.
Mr. Cooper, amid all his business affairs, finds time to indulge his taste for the fine arts, and has quite a collection of paintings. Indeed the family has several amateur artists among its numbers, who are repro- ducing on canvas the picturesque scenes of Santa Barbara, with much success. A fine library also fur- nishes mental recreation and material for thought.
Mr. Cooper is justly reckoned one of the benefac- tors of Santa Barbara, having by his experiments demonstrated the probability of making many new industries profitable.
PEDRO BARON
Is a native of France, having been born in the town of Payssons, September, 1830. He remained in the place of his nativity until 22 years of age, when he sailed for San Francisco, via Cape Horn, on the ship New Jersey, being seven months making the journey. After remaining in San Francisco a short time, he went to Santa Clara Conuty, worked two months and again returned to San Francisco. He next turned his attention to the buying and selling of cattle for the San Francisco market, also following the dairy business in San Francisco.
In 1860, he came to Santa Barbara County, settling at Las Cruces, where he remained for ten years, en- gaged in merchandising and stock-raising. In 1872, he came to the ranch where he now resides, his busi- ness being stock-raising.
His ranch, a view of which may be seen in this volume, is located nine miles from Gaviota, on the road to Santa Barbara, and contains about 2,000 acres, well stocked with cattle and sheep.
Mr. Baron's place is one of the romantic places of Santa Barbara, delightfully situated in a glen over- looking the sea, but sheltered from the winds. The time is not far distant when all places of that kind will be eagerly sought for, and purchased at what would now be considered extravagant rates, by those who have an eye for the picturesque.
Mr. Baron was married December 28, 1865, to Miss Altagracia Leyva, a native of California. By this union they have six children-three girls and three boys.
CHAPTER XXXII.
WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.
Lompoc Valley and Vicinity-Lompoc Colony-Early Remi- niscences-Origin of the Colony-Conditions of Sale-Ex. citement-Lompoc Record-Crusade Against Liquor-Jess .. 1. Hobson-Progress -- Great Storm-Liberality of Hollister & Dibblee-Condition in 1880-John Franklin Dinwiddie George Roberts - Explosion-Meeting of the Knights of Pythias-The Fourth in 1881-Prosperity in 1852-Canada Hondo-La Purissima Rancho-Jesse Hill-Santa Rita Rancho -- Outrage and Hanging of the Perpetra or-J. W. Cooper -- Santa Rosa Rancho - Cañada de Salsipuedes-S: n Julian Rancho -- Geo. H. Long-The Profit of Sheep-raising -- Rancho Punta de la Concepcion -- Rancho Señora del Refu gio -- The Gaviota Pass.
FOR convenience and for geographical and social reasons, this district will be considered as composing the following ranchos: Lompoc and Mission Vieja de la Purissima, Punta de la Concepcion, west half of Nuestra Señora del Refugio, San Julian, Cañada de Salsipuedes, Santa Rosa, Santa Rita, Mission de la Purissima, and the south half of Jesus Maria. Its shore line extends from La Gaviota Pass (or landing) west wardly to Point Concepcion, thence northwardly to Point Purissima, a distance of some thirty-seven miles.
A strict geographical division would place a small part of the eastern portion of the Punta de la Con- cepcion Rancho and the western half of Nuestra Señora del Refugio Rancho in the Santa Barbara Valley. For, at Point Concepcion, the Santa Bar- bara range of mountains, which is the protection of the Santa Barbara Valley from every cold blast from the north, abruptly terminates in the Pacific. The valleys along the west coast, above this point, are exposed to the full force of the trade-winds, which supply the summer crops with much moisture in the form of fogs, principally at night. The climate of these coast valleys is cool and bracing, stimulating to labor during the day and promoting sound sleep at night. The interior valleys are less subject to winds, have a much warmer temperature by day. are cooler at night, and have less moisture from fogs.
Until within six or seven years ago, the only use of all this section was the raising of live-stock, and the only population consisted of the few herders and vaqueros necessary to look after the stock. The population in 1881 was nearly 2,000. The number of acres of arable land in this district is estimated at 35,000, in a total of 223.487.45. The chief products are wheat, barley (Chevalier and common), beans, corn, potatoes, English mustard, flax, honey. butter, cheese, wool, hogs, cattle, horses, and sheep. Ou March 1, 1881, this district supported 817 horses. 3,253 cattle, and 95,703 sheep. The annual produc- tion of wool is about 650,000 pounds. The soil in this valley is as rich and productive as any in the county, but there must be early sceding and decp and thorough cultivation. Fruit culture has not
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HISTORY OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY.
been successful, save in the sheltered valleys, the trade-winds from the Pacific being too strong and constant for the healthy growth of fruit trees.
The Santa Ynez Valley, within this district, is about fifteen miles wide at its mouth, at the town of Lompoc about six miles, and above this point it is a winding valley between low, rolling hills, spreading ont at times into broad stretches of bottom land. At its lower end the river spreads out over a wide, gravelly bed with but a trifle of flowing water. Daily stage-coaches connect with the Southern Pa- cific Railroad, by way of Santa Barbara and Newhall; passenger steamers land regularly at Gaviota wharf, twenty-two miles from Lompoc; and freight vessels at Sudden wharf, near Point Arguello, eleven miles from Lompoc; at Lompoc wharf, at Point Purissima, thirteen miles distant; at the Chute landing and at Point Sal, nineteen and twenty-one miles distant.
The price per acre of arable land ranges from $10.00 to $25.00 for mesa (upland) and $30.00 to $75.00 for valley. Grazing land varies from $1.00 to $4.00 per acre in price.
Upon the San Julian and Lompoc Ranchos are to be found excellent hunting-grounds for bear. deer, quail, and pigeons, and streams well stocked with trout.
LOMPOC COLONY.
The Lompoc Colony lands embrace all the lands of the Lompoc and Mission Vieja de la Purissima Ranchos; title U. S. Patent. They are situated in the western part of the county, bordering for seven miles upon the Pacific Ocean, and extending back from the coast about twelve miles. They are bounded on the north by the ranchos Jesus Maria, La Puris- sima, and Santa Rita; on the east by the rancho Cañada de Salsipuedes and a corner of the rancho of San Julian; on the south by the rancho Punta de la Concepcion, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. The Santa Ynez River runs through the ranchos from east to west, and for about twelve miles it forins their northern boundary. The total area of the company's lands is 46,499.04 acres, comprising valley, undulating, and hill lands, of which about 24,000 acres are plain land. The main valley contains 16,000 acres.
The original Lompoc Rancho contained 38,335.78 acres of land, and was granted by the Mexican Gov- ernment, April 15, 1837, to José Antonio Carrillo, and possession given the following November. The Mis- sion Vieja de la Purissima was granted to Joaquin and José Antonio Carrillo, November 20, 1845, and contained 4,440 acres. Carrillo sold Lompoc to the More Bros., they to Hollister Bros., Dibblee Bros., and J. W. Cooper. The last-named sold out his interest to the others, and bought the beautiful Santa Rosa.
EARLY REMINISCENCES.
The name " Lompoc" is Indian for little lake or laguna, and was probably two words-Lum Poc.
The Spanish called it, more musically, Lompoco, accented on the second syllable, the o long. Fifty years ago there was no well-defined river channel, the water spreading out in the lower part of the valley into a laguna, whence the name.
At that time no willows, cottonwoods, or montes were known, and they had no heavy rains to cause freshets, as in later times. Old Indians assert that there were no creeks anywhere in this part of the country, except from mountain springs, and no baranca between here and San Julian. Mr. Brough- ton remembers only Indians and Mexicans farming, and then only on arroyos and bottom lands; for any one who would have attempted to cultivate without irrigation would have been laughed at. Only rude wooden plows were used-a beam and a downward sharp stick, though the padres improved that by placing an iron point on the end of the wooden share.
The zealous Catholic missionaries did a great deal of work in building, irrigating, and planting out trees. They had a magnificent orchard and ala- meda, or avenue, where Truitt's land begins at the mouth of the cañon. Its disappearance is thus ac- counted for: After Mexico gained her independence as a republic, the church grants reverted, the mis- sions were sacked and unroofed, and the lands were placed in the hands of commissioners, one of whom, Carrillo, took such a fancy to Lompoc that he retained it. Fearing that the presence and main- tenance of the fine orchard might give the church authorities prima facie claim to the land, it was ruth- lessly cut down. There was also a fine vineyard about where Mr. F. S. Balaam now lives, which was destroyed by fire. Quite recently some of the vines were to be seen.
The Jalama, between Lompoc and Point Concep- cion light-house, has still a neglected vineyard and olive, pear, and walnut orchard. The Bishop claimed it until T. B. Dibblee traded other property for it.
There are still traces of graded roads beyond the tintas of Judge Heacock, judiciously selected and finely engineered, over which they used to haul, by means of ox-teams, to the Cojo, their shipping-place.
The Cojo landing, near Point Concepcion, is said to have been used in former days as a landing for goods that sought to evade the customs. These goods were principally liquors used by the priests, their destination the Jalama Ranch. The landing is said to be always practicable for boats.
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