USA > California > Santa Barbara County > History of Santa Barbara county, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 96
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66 | Part 67 | Part 68 | Part 69 | Part 70 | Part 71 | Part 72 | Part 73 | Part 74 | Part 75 | Part 76 | Part 77 | Part 78 | Part 79 | Part 80 | Part 81 | Part 82 | Part 83 | Part 84 | Part 85 | Part 86 | Part 87 | Part 88 | Part 89 | Part 90 | Part 91 | Part 92 | Part 93 | Part 94 | Part 95 | Part 96 | Part 97 | Part 98 | Part 99 | Part 100 | Part 101 | Part 102 | Part 103 | Part 104 | Part 105 | Part 106 | Part 107 | Part 108 | Part 109 | Part 110 | Part 111
In the immediate vicinity is a large settlement of Spanish-Californian farmers, who are u-ing improved agricultural implements and raising good corn, bar- ley and bean crops.
Soon after passing Camulos the scenery changes at every advancement up the winding valley, reveal- ing new and beautiful nooks, valleys and bluffs, with the gentle river flowing by.
The next great estate reached is the
SAN FRANCISCO RANCHO,
Which lies partly in Los Angeles and partly in Ven- tura County, and contains about 11,500 acres of grazing and 3,000 acres of tillable land. of which about 13,000 acres belong to Ventura County. The Santa Clara River divides it into nearly equal por- tions.
The rancho was granted to Antonio del Valle, January 22, 1839, and confirmed to Jacoba Feliz and others. It then contained but about 10.000 acres. It now, for the most part, belongs to the estate of H. M. Newhall, the well-known San Francisco ane- tioneer.
Newhall, a station on the Southern Pacific Rail- road. in Los Angeles County, is situated upon this rancho. The Newhall mansion is in Los Angeles
408
HISTORY OF VENTURA COUNTY.
County. Aside from this there are few houses that attract attention. Wheat has been largely raised. To a stranger, looking at this part of the country, seeing so many hills and mountains, with long, steep cañons, covered with coarse, wild sage-brush and weeds, it appears a worthless waste of land piled up in narrow valleys; but the highest brush on these hills. it should be remembered, yields it nectar to the bee, which, in turn, transforms it into that desirable com- modity, honey. Then, too, the oil interests are far from having been fully developed. . Near Newhall are located the Star Petroleum Refining Works.
It is stated that these lands are offered for sale in large or small tracts, at reasonable rates.
CHAPTER XLI. THE WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.
San Buenaventura Valley-Ex-Miss'on -- San Miguelito -- Green B. Taylor-Rock Soap-Can ula Largo o Verde Rancho -- Ojai Rancho -- Rob rt Ayers-W. S. McKee-Other Set- tlers-Theodore Todd-Disagreeable Visitor -- Statistics of the Ojai -- Schools-Quality of the Soil -- As a Smiturium -- Joseph Hobart -- Roads to the Ojai-Nordhoff-Frank P. Barrows-Private Houses-H. J. Dennison-Views Near the Upper Ojai-Poetry-John Montgomery -- Cloud-bursts -Glacial Theory-Liability to Cloud-bursts-Is There Any Help ?- Santa Ana Rancho-Colonization Project-Matilija Sulphur Springs-Other Parts of the County-M. S. Dim- mick.
THE river of the same name, which flows through San Buenavent ira Valley, has its source in the wil- derness above the Santa Ana and Ojai Ranchos; and, after meandering fifty miles through a rugged and picturesque valley, a good part of which is impass- able canon, empties into the Santa Barbara Channel at the county seat. The country drained by this stream is nearly comprised within the boundaries of
the following Ranchos: The Cañada San Miguelito and a part of the ex-Mission, both bordering on the ocean; the Cañada Largo o Verde and Ojai on the left bank, and the Santa Ana on the right bank. Above this section the Ventura River makes a rapid descent, passing by highlands and over cascades, until it reaches the table-like lands of the Ojai and Santa Ana Ranchos, where it gathers the waters of the celebrated Coyote and San Antonio Creeks-the first-mentioned from the west, the other from the east-whence it flows with a gentle current to the sea. For a portion of its lower course, a strip of bot- tom-land about one mile wide and of unsurpassed richness, makes glad the hearts of its owners with prodigious returns. The sides of the valley carry de- lightful groves of oak and sycamore, refreshing in their perennial beanty, and furnishing an endless supply of firewood. About four miles above San Buen- aventura, there is a venerable old sycamore about which cling many quaint and charming Indian tra- ditions. It is about four feet in diameter, hollow, and
inclined at an angle of about forty-five degrees. The Indians call it the "Mother Tree," and place food under its w ide-spreading branches-an offering to the "Great Spirit," whose breath they atfirm is always felt by those standing beneath it.
There is a monster grapevine in the valley, owned by Señor Moraga, which is over seventy years old. and measures about three feet around the trunk. It is trained up over frame-work, and produces annu- ally some thousands of pounds of grapes.
The perennial flow of the river furnishes unlimited water-power and irrigating facilities.
Three miles above San Buenaventura is the flour- ing-mill and warehouses of Beale & Smith, described in another part of the work.
The vast domain of the
EX - MISSION RANCHO
Was granted as twelve leagues to José de Arnaz, by Governor Pio Pico, June 8, 1846. Arnaz sold it to M. A. R. Poli in 1850. The claim was confirmed by the United States Land Commissioner for the South- ern District of California, May 15, 1855, and finally by a decision of the United States District Court, April 1, 1861. The United States patent was issued in August, 1874, for 48,822.91 acres to the grantees. Poli sold the property to the Sau Buenaventura Man- ufacturing and Mining Co., of which Ferdinand Vas- sault was President. The portion of the rancho not yet sold to settlers is owned by Messrs. Steinbach & Carpentier, who offer for sale any desired number of acres to suit the purchaser, on the following terms: All lands within five miles of the town of San Buena- ventura, 830 per acre; beyond this limit, from $10 to $15 will be the maximum. J. Marion Brooks is the locol agent at San Buenaventura. Poli died insolvent. The history of the struggle over the title is exten- sively discussed on page 209.
This rancho derives its name from the old Mission of San Buenaventura, but was called ex-Mission be- cause of a division made of the lands held in the name of the Mission -the church retaining the old orchard and the grounds immediately around it, con- taining 36,37, acres. All of the lands outside of this reservation are called ex-Mission lands.
At the sale of lands for delinquent taxes, February 16, 1874, the ex-Mission lands were offered for sale, without a buyer, the amount of taxes being $3,163, which was drawing interest at two per cent. per month.
The long range of picturesque hills, rising from where the beautiful town of San Buenaventura nestles under cover of their extreme western spur, and where the great flanking valleys of the Santa Clara and San Buenaventura Rivers meet in a de- pression of the land, are the ex-Mission Hills. The region is one with almost continuous settlements around it, and with easy outlets. The soil is exceed- ingly rich to the very crests of the hills, and the cli-
BUCKHORN RANCH, VENTURA COUNTY, B F WARRING PROP.
3
RESIDENCE OF G. B. TAYLOR, SAN BUENAVENTURA, VENTURA CO. CAL.
P
P
409
WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.
mate is equal to any in the world; 10.000 acres of arable land are adapted to the growth in perfection of the semi-tropical fruits, the cereals, as well as alfalfa and every variety of vegetables. Over all this wide extent of territory grows Inxuriantly, wild oats, wild burr-clover, and the never-failing alfileria. There are forests of oaks back a short distance from the sea, rarely visible until you come right in front of the northern exposure of the range. But the pres- ent nse is for pastoral purposes, excepting, of course, the tillable lands. The bee pasturage is rich and ex- tensive. The oil belt underlies a portion of the rancho, and is treated in a separate chapter. So also are the asphaltum springs and beds. and the sul- phur mountain.
The boundaries of the ranch are, on the north west, the Rancho Cañada San Miguelito (from which it is separated by the San Buenaventura River), Rancho Cañada Largo o Verde, and a strip of Government land lying between it and the Ojai Rancho; on the east by the Santa Paula Creek and Government land; on the southeast by the Rancho Santa Paula y Sat- icoy.
Mr. Hankerson was one of the early settlers on this rancho, and was located at the Aliso Canon, where, in 1867, he raised a field of barley which was perhaps the first raised south of the river in this section.
THE RANCHO CANADA SAN MIGUELITO
Is the one next northwest of the ex-Mission Rancho and separated from it by the San Buenaventura River. It has a coast line on the southwest of about three miles, and is bounded on the northwest by public lands, on the north by the Santa Ana Rancho, and on the east by the Canada Largo o Verde Rancho, from which it is separated by the San Buenaventura River. The grant of 8,877.04 acres was confirmed to J. F. de Rodriguez and others.
Standing sentinel over a scenery of matehless sym- metry are the highlands of the San Miguelito Rancho, which rise from the west bank of the San Buenaven- tura River in steep slopes, narrowing while ascending into lofty grassy erests.
The rancho consists almost wholly of rich pasture lands, where sheep are raised in great numbers. Very little timber is found. The ocean road from San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara passes along the beach.
GREEN B. TAYLOR,
Who owns the ranch, and lives in the San Buenaven- tura Valley, was born at Huntsville, Madison County, Alabama, January 20, 1819. The patriot blood of the heroes of the American Revolution runs in his veins, his grandfather, Capt. Christopher Taylor, having earned his title as commander of a company in the War of Independence. His father was John E. Taylor, and his mother's maiden name, Keturah Blevins, both na- tives of Tennessee, and both living (1882) in Alabama
upwards of ninety years of age. Green B. spent his days of boyhood and youth attending the common schools of his native State and with his duties upon his father's farm. On the 4th of July, 1846, he was married, at the town of Chattanooga, to Miss Naney M. Donohon, a native of Monroe County, Tennessee, and four children, three sons and one daughter, live to bless the marriage. Mrs. Taylor's parents were among the first settlers of Tennessee, going to that region in 1790, when it was called " The Terri- tory of the United States south of the Ohio," the Federal Government having accepted it from the State of North Carolina, and extended its jurisdiction over it. Fort Louden was the first military post established by the General Government in the Terri- tory, and in this fort the parents of Mrs. Taylor resided for ten years, such protection being necessary against the cruel savages who infested the country from the lakes to the gulf.
In 1850, Mr. Taylor and family went to Texas, where he engaged in the business of raising and dealing in eattle for a period of two years. In the fall of' 1852 he left Texas for California, taking pas- sage on the steamer Daniel Webster to Greytown, thence by the way of the San Juan River and Lake Nicaragua to the Pacific and to San Francisco, which place he reached. November 11. 1852. After landing he proceeded directly to Sonora, Tuolumne County, following his old business of farming and stock-raising, remaining there eighteen months, when he removed to Mariposa County, where he continued the business for a similar period, then transferring his field of operations to Tulare County. From Tu- lare County he removed to San Luis Obispo County. where he continued his pastoral life for eleven years, and in 1870 taking up his residenee where he now resides, a successful grazier, owning the valuable San Miguelito Rancho, a tract of over 8,000 acres of land adjoining the town of San Buenaventura, lying west of the San Buenaventura River, usually called Ventura, and bordering the Pacific Ocean. Upon this rancho is the mine of the " Ventura Rock Soap Company," a vast deposit of diatomaceous earth, which is mined and manufactured into cakes for wash- ing purposes.
Not far from Mr. Taylor's, on Government land, is also a mine of so-called rock soap, resembling marl. Use is made of the pulverized article for bur- nishing purposes by jewelers, and for polishing silverware. It has been exported to San Francisco for these purposes. Extended notice of this mineral, which is simply an infusorial earth, and of no use for toilet purposes, is made elsewhere in this work.
A view of Colonel Taylor's residence is published in these pages.
CANADA LARGO O VERDE RANCHO
Was granted to J. Alvarado. Joaquin Alvarado pushed the claim to confirmation; it contains about 2,220 acres. (Hoffman.) Other authorities place
410
HISTORY OF VENTURA COUNTY.
the acreage at 6,659.04. It extends along the east bank of the San Buenaventura River for about two miles of its course, the coast being about three miles distant from that point of the raneho nearest to it. Across the river is the Rancho Cañada San Miguelito; to the north lies a narrow strip of Govern- ment land, separating it from the Ojai Rancho, and to the south the ex-Mission Raneho. It consists of a slender valley, that heads northeasterly up on the Sulphur Mountain. A branch of the valley is known as the Coche (pig) Canon, while another portion of the raneho is ealled " Sleepy Hollow." The valley is well protected by the foot-hills on either side, and contains about 1,000 acres of tillable land, which is under a good state of cultivation. The balance is grazing land. Here are to be found some beautiful suburban homes, handsome villas with fine orchards, and well-planned grounds, adorned with flowers and ornamental shrubbery.
OJAI RANCHO
Is a wedge-shaped tract of country, whose base, about six miles long, rests on the eastern boundary of the Santa Ana Raneho, about three-quarters of a mile from the parallel channel of the San Buenaventura River, and which extends thence directly east about twelve miles, tapering to a blunt point near the Sespe Raneho. To its north stretches an indefinite extent of mountainous country, public lands; on its south is a narrow strip of Government land, separating it from the ex-Mission and Cañada Largo o Verde Ranchos. That portion of the rancho nearest to San Buenaventura is about eight miles distant, via the river. About six miles above the county scat, and just within the Santa Ana Rancho, a branch of the San Buenaventura River flows into it from the northeast, through a eanon which, followed for four miles, more or less, brings one to where the stream divides, the right-hand branch leading via Lion Canon to the " Upper Ojai," the other to the "Lower Ojai" Valley lying fifteen miles from the county seat. two days' drive from Los Angeles, and one from Santa Barbara. These twin sisters of the Ojai Rancho are the eenters of settlement and of resort of the rancho. The Ojai Raucho contains 17,000 acres, about 10,000 acres of which are tillable and under good cultivation.
It was granted to Fernando Tieo, April 6, 1837, and afterward also confirmed to him; acreage, 17,792.70. (Hoffman.) In 1864-65 the ranch was bought by the California Petroleum Co., of which Thomas A. Scott was an active member. Mr. Green onee owned the rancho, and it was supposed that he was the agent of the Tom Seott Co. It was under the man- agement of W. H. Stone, of New York, assisted by Thomas R. Bard, who soon after was made sole manager. The history and present condition of the oil interests of the rancho is treated of elsewhere in this volume. John T. Stow, now of San Buenaven-
tura, lived in the Ojai Valley in 1864, and killed a dozen or more grizzlies during one winter. Ile thinks he saw as many as a hundred in that time. California lions, wild cats and coyotes were also abundant. Lion Cañon was so named from the numerons panthers that it harbored. It is still a wild plaee, though no lions have been seen there for many years. Wild cats often display their fondness for the spring chickens. The family of Mr. Robert Ayers is credited with being the first American house- hold that settled in the Ojai Valleys. On October 15, 1868, he moved into an old adobe ranch house, which he bought of Dr. Chauncey Isbell, who had been in the valley at least two years. He purchased a place on the Upper Ojai, from John P. Green, in the same year. A few Spanish families were in the two valleys at that time.
ROBERT AYERS,
One of the first settlers in the Ojai, was born in County Dinnagall, Ireland, June 14, 1826, his parents being William and Elizabeth (Montgomery) Ayers. In 1836 the family removed to America, settling on a farm in Hancock County, Illinois. On the farm and in the schools of the Prairie State, Robert received his education and grew to manhood, and there mar- ried, December 18, 1848, Miss Christiana Connor, a native of Pennsylvania. In 1850, Mr. Ayers came to California and sought his fortune in the mines with such suecess that two years' mining enabled him to return to Illinois and bring his family with him. This was done in 1852. Ile then settled in Sonoma County and engaged in farming, which business he continued until 1859. He then built the " Washoe House," which was situated eight miles from Peta- luma, and which he kept as a public hotel until 1868, the year he removed to the Ojai Valley, Ventura County. There he has since lived, engaged in farm- ing and stock-raising. He has paid much attention to the breeding of blooded horses of the Norman stock, of which he now has a fine young stallion. Mr. Ayers is the happy possessor of a well-improved farm of 250 acres of choiee land, located half a mile from the town of Nordhoff. In this pleasant home- stead Mr. Ayers can pass in ease the remaining years of a well-spent life, with his happy family around him. During his residenee in Sonoma County, Mr. Ayers had the honor of being the Postmaster at Stony Point for fifteen years, from 1853 to the time of his departure for Ventura in 1868. His present residence is illustrated in this volume.
W. S. M'KEE
Came to the Upper Ojai in 1870 and remained there until 1873, when he sold out to Joseph Hobart and moved to the Lower Ojai and built a home, where he now keeps the sanitarium of Ven- tura County, now called the Oak Glen Cottages, the favorite resort for tourists and health-seeker's.
The general character of the Ojai Valley is treated
OAK GLEN COTTAGES. W. S. MCKEE PROPR. OJAI VALLEY, VENTURA CO. CAL.
RESIDENCE & RANCH OF THEO. TODD, UPPER OJAI VALLEY, VENTURA COUNTY, CAL.
411
WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.
elsewhere, but the attractive features of the collee- tion of cottages may well elaim special mention. From the first coming of the Americans the Ojai Valley was noted not only for its fertile soil and abundant feed for cattle, but for its magnificent oak forests which seemed more stately than elsewhere, as if proud of the spot which gave them birth, and more than all for the balmy atmosphere which seemed to infuse life and happiness into all who came within its influence. The elevation above the sea level and its comparative freedom from fogs gave it a peculiar value for those afflicted with lung difficulties, while the bold scenery, tbe lofty mountains ribbed with gray sandstone, resembling granite, and the deep ravines changing in appearance each hour, as sun- shine or shadow prevailed, gave enjoyment to the mind wearied with care or literary labor, and furnished additional means of recovery to the sick and suffering. Mr. McKee was among the first to appreciate the advantages, and set about the con- struction of suitable buildings to accommodate the traveling publie. The result is a collection of cot- tages rather than an extensive and imposing hotel. It is true that a certain class of travelers, especially those who travel to see the world and mix with society prefer a big hotel. To such the great hotel with its hundred rooms filled with a brilliant and fashionable throng, and the army of well-trained waiters that anticipate every want, is attractive. The whole life is like a gala day, one pleasure sue- cecding another. The case is entirely different with those who are worn out with the cares of business or society. or the strain of a professional life. Rest and quiet is necessary. The very noise and hurry incident to a large hotel would and does aggravate most forms of nervous diseases, or cases arising from exhausted vitality. The Ojai is not on the great lines of travel. Those who visit the valley come for rest. To such Mr. McKee's cottages offer an excel- lent retreat. The rooms all admit of sunshine nearly all the day, are large and airy and well furnished, and while they are sufficiently detached to be secluded, are still so near the main offices as to receive all necessary care and attention. Tents are furnished those who wish to live a still more out- door life; indeed this is positively enjoined on those inclined to pulmonary diseases. Plenty of " fresh air, exercise and nutritions food " is the best prescription ever yet written. The first every one at the Ojai gets; the hunting, fishing and sight-seeing in the neighborhood furnish inducements for the second, while the third and the indispensable one is dispensed at the cottages ad infinitum.
In most cases a marked improvement is observed at the very start. Persons who are afflicted with asthma, neuralgia and rheumatism, are often relieved in a day or two. Stages to San Buenaventura and Santa Barbara furnish daily communication with the outside world; fare to the former place $1, to the
latter $3. Mr. McKee can accommodate about fifty guests in his cottages, and as many as may come with tents. The illustrations in this book will give a better idea of his place than any description.
OTHER SETTLERS.
In 1870 there were but two houses in the Upper Ojai, one an adobe, occupied in 1868 by Robt. Ayers. and at this time by Mr. J. Wilson, and the other a frame structure adjoining Mr. Wilson's on the north, in possession of Mr. Bryant, who settled there in 1868 or 1869. Mr. Wilson sowed the first grain in the valley, reaping a fair harvest. When Mr. Bry- ant moved in he found the Barch boys in camp on the opposite side of the creek from his house. Mr. John Pinkerton was also an early settler in the Ojai.
THEODORE TODD,
Also an early settler, is a native of the town of Port Chester, Westchester County, New York, where he was born March 22, 1838, being next to the youngest of six children of Darius W. and Margaret (Com- stock) Todd, both parents being now deceased. When he was but two years of age the family moved to Connecticut, where they continued to reside for the following thirteen years. In that land of "steady habits" and good schools Mr. Todd re- ceived his education. When fifteen years of age he removed to Illinois, settling at Princeton in that State, where he remained for a period of four years, engaged in farming. The great political question of the government of Kansas and Nebraska Territories was, in 1858, creating an intense excitement through- out the United States, the pro-slavery element urg- ing immigration favorable to establishing the institu- tion of slavery, and the anti-slavery people of the North contending for its exclusion. Mr. Todd, joining the throng, moved to Kansas in 1858, engaged in farming, and there remained for two years. But the land that was to satisfy his desires was not yet reached, and in search of this he crossed the broad plains and mountain ranges, in 1860, to California, settling in Contra Costa County, and there, following the vocation of his life, engaged in farming. While residing in that peaceful county, the great War of the Rebellion arose. Mr. Todd returned East in 1864, and there joined the 44th lowa Regiment, under command of Colonel Henderson, and served a term of 100 days. The rebellion being soon there- after suppressed, and the volunteers disbanded. Mr. Todd returned to California and to his farm. In 1869 he came to the Upper Ojai Valley, then included in Santa Barbara County. Here he located upon a farm of 140 acres, which he now cultivates. and upon which he resides. lle was married July 14. 1881. to Miss Anna Wilson, a native of England. and the family occupy the pleasant home illustrated on another page.
412
HISTORY OF VENTURA COUNTY.
DISAGREEABLE VISITOR.
It is a well-known fact that the California lion has a predilection for the society of humans under the shelter of their abodes; but when a person be- eomes so exposed, it is not generally considered the proper thing for one to turn the muzzle of his weapon upon himself. However that may be, in Mareh, 1870, Dr. Bard was the recipient of a call from one of these too-sociable brutes, who coolly sprang into his bed-room. The sequence came near being a fatal one, for, in reaching for his gun, the good doctor accidentally discharged it, the ball in- tended for his lionship ranging dangerously near his own person.
Mr. Roberts settled in the Lower Ojai in 1872, where he has sinee remained.
STATISTICS OF THE OJAI.
As illustrating the development of the rancho, the following statistics of the wheat product for 1872 will be useful: Bartch, 1,200 sacks; Clark, 1,000; Proctor, 600; Dennison, 600; Riggen, 600; Willson, 500; Pinkerton, 500; Todd, 500; MeKee & Henston, 500; Bryant, 300; and Ayers, 200; a total of 7,200 sacks, or about 16,200 bushels. The yield averaged from thirty to forty bushels per acre, though some of the later-sown grain was affected by rust.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.