USA > California > Santa Barbara County > History of Santa Barbara county, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 73
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Mr. Murphy, was keeper of the State Prison at the time of the imprisonment of the nine privateers, known as the San Salvador Pirates, who were com- missioned by Jeff. Davis to prey upon the commerce of the Pacific Coast.
The points of shipment for this rancho are Gaviota Landing and Los Alamos, each about sixteen miles distant.
THE TOWN OF SANTA YNEZ
Sprang into existence upon this ranch in the fall of 1882, and took the cognomen of the valley. It is cighteen miles from Gaviota and sixteen miles south of Los Alamos, the present terminus of the railroad. A daily stage runs to Santa Barbara, passing through Santa Ynez. There are two blacksmith shops, two stores, another store building, a school house, twenty- nine buildings, and several other dwellings in prog- ress. Two large water tanks will supply the town with water from the head of Santa Cota Creek, by means of rams. There are about 12,000 acres of good farming land. Mr. Torrence will put in 640 acres of wheat; D. Coiner, 600 acres; Con. Murphy,
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640; S. F. Coiner, 400; Edmond Fields, 320; T. B. Jamison, 600; E. J. Preston, 1,500; Mr. Hawk; 1,000.
Mr. Field owns 320 acres; Mr. Gibson, 80 acres; and Mr. Harvey, Patrick Murphy, and Mr. Keenan are other flourishing farmers. These lands are sell- ing for from 86.00 to $14.00 per aere, one-fourth down, the balance in four annual payments, with interest at seven per cent. But it is found here as elsewhere that this seductive practice of offering large tracts on " easy terms," frequently proves any- thing but satisfactory. It is a better policy to buy less in quantity, pay for it, and depend upon thorough cultivation for large returns, than run the risk of losing the whole, by trying to grasp too much. There are those who conscientiously assert that this will be the most populous part of the county at no very distant day.
SAN MARCOS RANCHO
Is a nearly circular tract of land of 35,573.10 acres, granted to Nieolas A. Den, June 8, 1846. The Najalayegua Ranebo very nearly encompasses the eastern half of the rancho, the boundary being finished by Government lands and the Teqnepis Rancho, which bounds its southwestern face. Its southern portion extends a mile south of the river channel. Its surface is very rugged, making stock- raising of necessity about the only business carried on. Its stoek statisties are ineluded with those of the Nojoqui Rancho, below. Quail, pigeon, deer, bear. the California lion, and trout abound. By the way of the San Marcos Toll-road that runs through its southern portion the nearest point of the rancho is but about twelve miles from Santa Barbara. This rancho is owned by the Pierce Brothers, who are also interested in the Nojoqui Rancho.
TEQUEPIS RANCHO
Was granted to Joaquin Villa and confirmed to Antonio Maria Villa. It is a traet of 8,919 acres, divided into two nearly equal portions by the Santa Ynez River, and lying between the Ranchos Canada de los Pinos and Las Lomas de la Purificacion on the west, San Marcos Rancho on the east, and San Marcos Rancho on the north, and Govern- ment lands on the south. The portion north of the Santa Ynez is diversified by the considerable valleys of the Cuchuma and Santa Cruz Creeks. The portion south of the river is traversed by the San Marcos Toll-road from east to west. By this road the raneho is about sixteen miles from Santa Barbara. The surface of the rancho is much broken and utilized almost entirely for stock-raising. Its stock statistics are ineluded with those of the Nojoqui Rancho, below.
LOS PRIETOS Y NAJALAYEGUA RANCHO,
As originally claimed, comprised a vast extent of country about the head-waters of the Santa Ynez of something over 200,000 acres. As finally adjudi-
cated, its acreage is fixed at 48,728.67. On the west it adjoins the San Marcos Rancho. and is bounded on the other three sides by Government lands. It lies over the mountains about eight miles to the north of Santa Barbara City. Its rugged surface makes tillage impossible, and even stock-raising seems a doubtful enterprise. On March 1, 1881. there were but twenty horses and 200 cattle upon the rancho. There are great possibilities in the development of the rich quicksilver ontcroppings. The whole subjeet of the Najalayegua Rancho, in- cluding the very interesting history of the many litigations over its boundaries, is exhaustively treated of in the chapter headed " Grant Titles," embodied in the general history.
RANCHO LAS LOMAS DE LA PURIFICACION
Lies immediately to the south of and across the river from the Rancho Canada de los Pinos. To its cast lies the Tequepis Rancho, to its west the Nojoqui, and to the south the Government lands of the Santa Barbara Mountain range. It was granted to Au- gustin Janssens, December 27, 1844. and contains 13,320 acres ;- U. S. patent 13,341.39 acres. It is owned by Thos. W Moore, son of the late Capt. T. W. Moore. It is chiefly grazing land, its flocks and herds numbering 10 horses, 1,000 cattle, and 3,000 sheep on March 1, 1881. An orchard forty years' old is still bearing good apples, pears, cherries, etc. The San Marcos Toll-road to Santa Barbara passes through the rancho, making the distance to that eity about twenty-two miles. Gaviota Landing is about seventeen miles distant.
RANCHO NOJOQUI
Adjoins the Rancho de Jonata on the south, the Santa Ynez flowing between them. To the west lies the Santa Barbara Mountains (Government land), to the east Rancho Las Lomas de la Purificacion, to the south the mountains and Rancho Las Cruces. It was granted to Raymundo Carrillo. April 27, 1843, and contained 13,522.04 acres -- U. S. patent, 13,284 acres. The raneho is finely situated in and about a finely-watered canon, and along the county road, leading through the mountain to Las Crnees and the Gaviota Pass. It contains excellent farming and graz- ing lands, owned by the Pieree Brothers and by Dr. de la Cuesta-a pioneer of 1848 from Spain-a resi- dent owner of about 6,000 aeres. It is well watered by the Santa Ynez and tributary ereeks. It con- tains about 1,200 acres of arable land. 800 of which are now farmed, wheat, barley, and flax being the principal crops. Their stoek comprised, in 1881. 5,000 sheep, 150 head of eattle, and 90 horses. several of the latter being fine thoroughbred ani- mals. The stoek upon the three ranchos, Nojoqui. San Marcos, and Tequepis, on March 1, 1881, num- bered about 88 horses, 1,315 cattle, and 5,950 sheep. Nojoqui is about eleven miles from Gaviota, twelve
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HISTORY OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY.
miles from Los Alamos, and forty-six miles from Santa Barbara.
About five miles to the northeast of Las Cruces, over rolling hills and across a pleasant little valley, three-quarters of a mile beyond the store and inn of José Buelna, on the Cañada Nojoqui, at an elevation of 1,009 feet above the sea, are situated the beautiful
FALLS OF NOJOQUI.
They remind one of the charming falls of Minne- ha-ha, made famous by the song of Longfellow. It is a little stream, bravely leaping over a hundred feet, down a rocky precipice, through the overhang- ing foliage, dashing itself half away in crystal spray, eddying a moment in the deep-worn basin below, and then flowing laughingly on to the sea.
The road from the Nojoqui Rancho to Las Cruces lies through a most delightful valley, with number- less pretty little flanking dales and pockets in which homes have been make and the soil successfully cultivated.
CHAPTER XXXIV. WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.
Santa Maria Valley-Wm. L Adam-S.unuel Connor-John H. Rice-Guadalupe Rancho-Town of Guadalupe-Guadalupe at Present-J. W. Hudson-John Dunbar-James S. Tyler- Thomas Hart-Products-Battista Pezzoni-Antonio Tog- nazzim-Thomas Salsbury -- Punta de la Laguna-Central City and Vicinity-John G. Prell-Thomas Wilson-James M. McElhaney-S. M. Blosser-W. T. Morris-Rudolph D. Cook -Madison Thornburgh-T. A. Jones & Son -- Henry Stowell-Isaac Miller -- J. A. Crosby-George Jos- eph Trott-Reuben Hart-James F. Goodwin-Emmet T. Bryant-Samuel Kriedel-Marks Fleisher-Robert Braun -Prosperity- Charles Bradley - Tepnsquet - Sisquoc- Tinaqnaic-The Foxen Family-Wm. Domingo Foxen-Wm. J. J. Foxen-Thomas F. Foxen-Fred. R. Foxen-J. R. Stone-J. Charles Foxen-F. Wickenden-La Grasciosa- Cnyama.
STANDING upon the sandy mesa which borders the Rancho Nipoma, of San Luis Obispo County, looking east, south, and west, one can scarcely decipher the ontlines of the hills fifteen miles away, which mark the boundaries of the Santa Maria Valley. Two towns and numerous farm-houses dot the wide and fertile plain, though the land has been recently rescued from the dominion of the sheep, and the fruit hangs red and ripe from the heavily-laden orchards, and the wind sends the shadows fleeing hefore it over the sea of grain. School houses are found instead of the shepherds' miserable huts, and the pleasant sound of children's voices is abroad in the land. Approaching Guadalupe through the lower valley of the Santa Maria, one surveys from a single point ten miles square of unbroken grain-fields, extending almost as far as the eye can reach, white and golden-strawed, and full-headed, bowing for the harvester. Fortunately, for the county at least, the land monopolists failed to make their claims connect and a hundred square miles or more were thrown open for settlement,
showing what the population of the county might have been but for the land system which gave 60,000 acres to one man, and no land to the thousands who wanted homes.
The valley of the Santa Maria River, not including the northern branch known as the Cuyama, embraces five, or parts of five ranchos, viz .: Guadalupe, Punta de la Laguna, Tepusquet, Sisqouc, and Tinaquaic, and Government lands ( ¿. e., lands purchased from the U. S. Government). The valley was named from an Indian, Santa Maria; the title was applied first to only a small part of it, but it was afterward extended to the whole valley and to the stream. The valley proper in its widest and longest dimensions is about twelve miles by twenty-five, with the towns of Guadalupe near its mouth and Central City about midway. Towards the upper end it narrows so much as to make four miles about a fair average of width. The population of the valley is about 1,300.
It is stated by many that 200,000 acres are suscept- ible of cultivation. Probably more wheat has been raised in this than in all the other valleys of the county combined. It annually sends to market more wheat and barley than valleys twice its size in other portions of the State. The soil varies from a sandy loam to an adobe. It is deep, strong, easily worked and prodnees bountifully when thoroughly cultivated. The valley is very low; it is in fact almost level, the surface of the soil being only a few feet above the river. The water sinks beneath the surface of the river bed in many places, and finding its way beneath the broad fresh-plowed fields in the valley, permeates the loose, gravelly subsoil, keeping the earth moist the entire year. This never-failing subsoil irrigation is the source of prosperity and happiness of the people of the Santa Maria Valley. No irrigation has as yet been done. Good water is obtained usually at a depth of from ten to fifteen feet.
The chief products are wheat, barley, corn, beans, butter, cheese and wool. The soil is adapted also to the growth of potatoes, flax, mustard, and the various other productions of Southern California except semi-tropical fruits. In 1880 the wheat and barley crops amounted to about 625,000 centals. The average yield of wheat per acre on valley land was 20 centals (33} bushels); mesa land, 17 centals (28} bushels). The average yield of barley was: valley land, 25 centals (41¿bushels); mesa land, 20 centals (33} bush- els). It should be said, however, that the yield for 1880 was more than an average one, though liberal returns may be relied on when the soil has been faithfully worked. The central and upper portions of the valley are adapted to fruit-raising.
The extent of the grazing interest is shown by the following figures: The total acreage of the five ranches, including those parts of the Punta de la Laguna and the Guadalupe that cross the northern boundary of the county, as represented by the U. S. patents, is 123,590.77 acres. On March 1, 1881, they
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SANTA MARIA, SANTA BARBARA CO., CAL. RANCH, RESIDENCE AND STORE OF WILLIAM L. ADAM,
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carried stock about as follows: Cattle, 3,860; horses, 879; sheep, 13,950. The best valley land in this district can be bought in lots of 160 acres and up- wards at $10 to $35 per acre, with some improve- ments; the mesa lands from $5 to $15 per acre, and grazing land from $6 to $8 per acre. The Govern- ment lands are all taken up.
The points of shipment for this valley are Point Sal and the Chute Landing, about fifteen miles distant from Central City. In addition to these there is now in operation a narow-gnage railroad, which connects Los Alamos on the south with San Luis Obispo and Port Harford on the north, crossing the Santa Maria Valley at Central City. The wharf at Port Harford has been extended so as to accommodate deep sea ships, and grain is shipped from there direct to Europe. The distance from the valley to the wharf is about thirty miles. While this road was endeavoring to secure the right of way, the Guadalupe Telegraph advised the farmers to be cautious about making concessions. The Santa Barbara Press remonstrated with the Telegraph, saying that the road would benefit that paper $10,000 and the Telegraph as much.
Bear, deer, quail, pigeon, and trout are found in abundance on the head-waters of the Santa Maria River.
Scarcely any fencing is required in this valley, as the " No-fenee " law is in operation, and stock-holders turning out their stock are compelled to herd it, or become liable for damage done to neighboring crops.
There are eaves, arches and grottos, formed by the abrasion of the ocean waves in the limestone forma- tion at Muscle Rock, on the sea-shore, between six and seven miles from Guadalupe, that are a favorite resort for local excursionists, and will be of much interest to tourists.
The climate is very healthy. The trade-winds blow nearly every afternoon. Heavy fogs facilitate the growth of summer erops, and tend to lower the tem- perature of the summer heat, which rarely reaches 100°. Frost seldom makes its appearance until Janu- ary, but sometimes occurs as late as April. Timber is scarce. The large tract of Government land lying between the Ranchos Punta de la Laguna, Los Ala- mos, and the Santa Maria and Sisquoc Rivers, is occupied in the upper portion chiefly by Spaniards and Chilians, and in the lower portion by Americans. It contains two stores, Juan Flores and Juan Pedro, proprietors. L. L. Forrester & Woom, blacksmiths and wagonmakers, are located on the Central City and Santa Ynez Road, about half a mile from Juan Flores.' T. Boyd, J. McElhaney, J. Thornburgh, T. W. Holmer, J. R. Holloway, Geo. J. Trott, J. B. Ruiz, O. Olivera, J. D. La Ruiz, P. Bradley and B. Kelly are other residents of the valley.
Judge Gerard Leff, one of the earliest settlers of San Luis Obispo, J. H. Rice, E. J. Preston, and Messrs. Sherman & Adam, are among the principal farmers near Guadalupe. L. Markham was a pioneer farmer
of this valley, but afterwards moved to the Los Alamos.
WILLIAM L. ADAM.
W. L. Adam, a pioneer of 1854, eleven years a res- ident of this valley, and part owner of the Rancho Guadalupe, is now a merchant and farmer near Cen- tral City. He was born in Lanarkshire, Scotland, August 7, 1836. When he was twelve years of age his parents emigrated to America, pushing onward to Salt Lake, they remained one year, thence to San Ber- nardino in 1849, making him one of the pioneers of California. Remaining in the southern country but a single year he moved north, and for five years was engaged in farming in Alameda County. In 1860 he removed to the Pajaro Valley, Santa Cruz County, in which fertile region he continued farming about eight years. Going from the Pajaro to Salinas Val- ley, in Monterey County, he resided there two years, and thence removed to Santa Barbara County, locating in the Santa Maria Valley in 1869, not far from where he now resides. Mr. Adam established the first store opened in the valley, and has had a large and profitable business through all the years of his residence. Beside his mercantile business he has engaged extensively in farming and stock-raising, and in dealing in land. His home, which is located about one and a half miles west of Central City, contains 1,300 acres. Here he has a store of general mer- chandise, and a finely improved and well located residence, as shown in an engraving in this book. Mr. Adam also owns two smaller farms in the same neighborhood, and one league of land in San Luis Obispo County, which is used as a stock ranch. He was married in 1861 to Miss Elizabeth Connor, daughter of James Connor, of Santa Clara County, from which marriage a happy family of eleven living children have sprung, of which seven are sons and four are daughters.
Another pioneer and prominent man is
SAMUEL CONNER,
Who was born in Meiggs County, Ohio, May 5, 1819. When an infant of only six months old, his parents removed to Hamilton County, Indiana, the father being the first white man to settle in that county. The great progress of the country is shown in the fact, that this now eentral and one of the most popu- lous counties of Indiana, was, in the life of our still vigorous age, an uninhabited wilderness of the extreme frontier. Illinois had but just become a State, with a sparse population in the southern part, and vast houseless prairies covering nearly all its northern half. In the valley of White River, amid the oaks, black walnut and hickory forests, abound- ing in deer, squirrels, wild turkeys, pigeons, and many other classes of game, was a pleasant section in which to grow to manhood, to enjoy the freedom of life, and to be awakened to all the necessities of a self-dependent future. In such a land Samuel Con-
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HISTORY OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY.
ner lived until twenty-one years old, when he sought the farther west, going to Vermillion County, Illinois. In that lovely region of undulating prairie and wav- ing corn-fields he remained seven years, engaged in farming, and then moved to Green County, in the Territory of Wisconsin. Settlers were fast crowding into that embryo State, and in 1848 Mr. Couner migrated to the extreme wilderness of Iowa, settling in what is now Fayette County. Although the region he settled in is but a short distance west of the Miss- issippi, at that date it was unoccupied by the white man, and Mr. Conner was the first of his race to locate within its limits. Previously it had been a reservation of the Winnebago Indians, and in 1848 the last of the tribe were passing from its limits, and it was opened for civilized occupation. In Fayette County Mr. Conner made his home for thirty-two years. Arriving in that new country in the prime of young manhood, after a useful experience in other undeveloped localities. he was well prepared to take advantage of the opportunities offered, and to estab- lish himself in a manner that insured future success. He engaged actively in farming, milling and merchan- dising, and also in dealing in real estate, being a pioneer in every sense. A first settler, he built the first saw-mill, also the first grist-mill and the first carding and woolen-mill in Fayette County. He also owned and laid out the towns of Elgin, and Lutra, and also built several mills. Such enterprise and energy would surely meet its reward in so pro- gressive a State as Iowa, and Mr. Conner attained the wealth and respect that his merits deserved. In February, 1852, he entered the matrimonial state, marrying Miss Marilla Howard, a native of Penn- sylvania, and they have had three children, of whom two are daughters and one a son.
In the spring of 1880, Mr. Conner came to Cali- fornia and purchased a fine farm of 400 acres, upon which he has sinee made his home. This is located adjoining the town of Central City, in Santa Barbara County, and is shown in an engraving on another page.
JOHN H. RICE,
Also a pioneer and prominent citizen, resides in this valley. He was born in Rhea County, Tennessee, June 20, 1832. He belonged to one of that great class of American families who have constituted the pioneers of civilization on this continent, moving westward, ever in the front, like the skirmishers of a mighty army, confronting the dangers, clear- ing the way, and preparing the paths for those who follow. When he had reached the age of ten years his parents moved from Tennessee to Arkansas, where they remained seven years. In the spring of 1850 they pushed forward to the farther West, crossing the plains to California, arriving in the fall at Nevada City, and there engaged in mining, continuing the the search for gold during the first year, when they removed to the farming and stock-growing region of Sonoma County. In that pleasant and fertile
section Mr. Rice found a land congenial to his taste, and there made his home from 1851 to 1867, a period of sixteen years, from his youth to manhood's prime. There he met and won his life's companion, having married Miss Mary Long, in November, 1854. From the happy union then formed have sprung six living children, of whom five are sons and one a daughter.
His Sonoma life was devoted to farming and stock- raising, which business he has continued through subsequent years. In 1867, he moved to Salinas City, Monterey County, where he remained six years, en- gaged in the cultivation of the soil, and herding his stock on the broad plains of that valley. After his experience in several localities, Mr. Rice finally selected the Santa Maria Valley as his future home, and in 1873 established himself where he now resides. a fine view of which is published in these pages. His residence is located on the stage road leading from Guadalupe to Central City, having an attractive and pleasant site. The ranch comprises 1,900 acres, is finely improved and well stocked. Mr. Rice also owns a smaller farm a few miles distant, the whole consti- tuting a fine property as the reward of industry and good judgment-and showing the possibilities of Cal- ifornia life.
GUADALUPE RANCHO.
This rancho lies at the outlet of the Santa Maria Valley, in the extreme northwestern corner of the county, lapping over somewhat into San Luis Obispo County. It contained 43,680.85 acres-United States patent. It has a coast line of about ten miles and extends back from the coast about eight miles. To the north lie the Chemisal and Nipoma Ranehos of San Luis Obispo County. The Rancho Punta de la Laguna bounds it partly on the north, on the east, and partly on the south, and the Casmali Rancho fin- ishes the southern boundary. The Santa Maria flows through the northern portion of the rancho, forming the northern boundary of the county. However, there is seldom any well-defined channel, the river spread- ing out and losing itself in the sandy soil.
The Guadalupe Rancho, containing 30,408.03 acres, was granted by the Mexican Government to Diego Olivera and Teodoro Arellanes, March 21, 1840. The claim was confirmed by the District Court, May 12, 1857, and a patent issued March 1, 1870. A patent had been issued in 1866, but it was not accepted, though parties having conflicting interests managed to have it recorded, and it constituted for a time evi- denee of a title. Estudillo next got possession of the property, and it was then called after his name.
The first farming on the Guadalupe Rancho was done by John B. Ward, who commenced operations on a small scale in 1867. He married a daughter of the Estudillo family, and built the larger of the two adobe houses still standing. He also built a road from Point Sal to the rancho, a distance of nine miles, in consideration of a tract of land at the former place being voted him by Congress, for the construction of
RANCH AND RESIDENCE OF J. H. RICE, NEAR GUADALUPE, SANTA BARBARA CO., CAL.
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THE WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.
a road from Point Sal to Fort Tejon. As there was already a natural route from Guadalupe to Fort Te- jen, he claimed the land and secured a patent for it. This was at the time when the Point Sal Landing was first built.
The Estudillo estate, being in dispute, was placed in the hands of Joel Clayton, brother of Charles Clayton, who acted as Receiver and Superintendent. The next year, 1868, Clayton cultivated 4,000 acres, employing sixty men. The crop astonished everybody. The grain was shipped at Point Sal, by lighters. While piled on the beach, awaiting shipment, a high tide carried away a great quantity of it.
The affairs of the Estudillo estate were in a very unsatisfactory condition. Jointly upon the Guadalupe Rancho and upon the property at San Leandro, Ala- meda County, there was a mortgage of $461,000. Jehn B. Ward sold his interest for $120,000, and John B. Nugent, of San Francisco, came down and took possession. He built the smaller of the two adobe honses before mentioned. Ile was one of the heirs, having married one of the Estudillo daughters. This is the Nugent who, in early days, as proprietor of the San Francisco Herald, opposed the Vigilanee Committee's doings. The Herald was sueeeeded by the present San Francisco Bulletin. Nugent conveyed the mortgage to Theodore Leroy, for $42,000. Leroy secured the deed October 18, 1870, and sold some portions of the ranch. Rudolph Steinbaugh became the agent for Leroy.
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