History of Santa Barbara county, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers, Part 70

Author: Mason, Jesse D; Thompson & West. 4n
Publication date: 1883
Publisher: Oakland, Cal., Thompson & West
Number of Pages: 758

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A good horse-trail, about nine miles long, leads over the mountain from Santa Rosa to Los Alamos.

CANADA DE SALSIPUEDES RANCIIO.

This means literally, "Canon of the get-out-if-you can." It takes its name from a rocky eanon that winds through it. Prior to 1874 it passed into the possession of Hollister & Dibblee, who used it for a sheep ranch. It is accredited with 6,656.21 acres by the United States Patent. It lies to the southeast of the rancho Mission Vieja de la Purissima; stretches from the Lompoc on the southwest to the Santa Ynez River on the northeast, while to the southeast lies the San Julian Rancho. The statistics of its stock are ineluded with those of the San Julian Rancho.

SAN JULIAN RANCHO.

This raneho was granted to George Rock, April 7, 1837; acreage, 48,221.68. The claim was purchased, and title perfeeted by José de la Guerra y Noriega. It lies upon the Santa Ynez range of mountains, and is bounded on the north by the Rancho Cañada de Salsipuedes and Government lands; on the east by Government lands; on the south by the west half of the Rancho Nuestra Señora del Refugio and a part of the Rancho Punta de la Concepcion; on the west by the Rancho Punta de la Concepcion, while its northwestern corner just touches the boundary of the Lompoc lands.

This rancho is now owned by Hollister & Dibblee, who came into possession of it prior to 1874. It is used by them as a sheep-range, and amongst all their possessions it is the apple of their eye for this business. The topography of this raneho is singularly diversified and attractive. It is made up of rolling hills and dipping valleys, mesas and lanitas (table- lands and little plains). It is watered by running brooks and numerous living springs of pure water. The largest valley is the Canada San Julian. From the flanks of the hills that border it on either side, other and smaller valleys put out and fall into the main basin. In the Canada de la Julian on the sea slope, one of the loveliest valleys on the whole rancho, was formerly a branch of the old Purissima Mission, and a vineyard, where the padres used to make wine. The Arroyo Julian runs through the valley and puts into the sea, on the Espada Rancho, west of Point

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HISTORY OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY.

Concepcion. Nothing of the sort could be finer than these delightful little valleys. They make the most grateful natural shelters for lambing ewes, so well protected are they from chilling winds, by the hills that flank them.

The soil is remarkably deep- ten and fifteen feet in places-strong, rich and productive to the tops of the hills. Burr-clover, bunch-grass, and a grass resembling in appearance the timothy of the Middle States, though different from it, abound; but alfileria, a native grass, is the prevailing species. In a good season, this is over shoe deep, while the wild oats on the hills grow nearly shoulder-high. Alfileria is the most nutritions of all the native grasses, and the chief reliance for all kinds of stock.

The leading varieties of wood on the San Julian Rancho are the live-oak, sycamore, willow, manzan- ita and the madrona. The San Julian was once a cavalry rancho of the Mexican nation. It was subsequently granted to one of its military officers for services rendered the republic. It is one of the very last sections of the State to fail from drought. In any but the very dryest year it will carry one sheep to the acre, and has carried two in favorable years. No feed is ever provided for a hard winter. The " no fence " law prevails, and sheep are herded by day and corraled at night. Ordinarily the sheep are kept in bands of from 1,500 to 2,000 each, to each of which one herder is assigned. During lambing-time, the flocks are reduced to about 750. On March 1, 1881, upon the San Julian Rancho, including the Rancho de Salsipuedes, and west half of the Nuestra Señora del Refugio Rancho, there were estimated to be 70 horses, 575 cattle, and 64,703 sheep. The acreage of this tract is 68,142,121 acres.

The buildings at the headquarters of the San Julian Rancho are ample and commodious-an old-time adobe ranch-house, modernized by the addition of wings; a grain barn and horse stable; an admirably- planned and complete shearing-shed and wool-barn, and a dipping apparatus of Mr Dibblee's device, that is perfect of its kind. Every sheep on the rancho is "soused " once a year in a decoction of tobacco-juice and corrosive sublimate, to keep down the scab, which, with the coyote, is the only considerable drawback to sheep-raising in Southern California.

At shearing-time, a lively scene is presented. Thirty shearers are employed. The wool is packed in bales of 420 pounds, and shipped to San Francisco. About thirty men and horses are regularly employed on the rancho. Mr. George H. Long is the competent major-domo under the direction of the manager, Thomas B. Dibblee.

The San Julian Rancho has been surveyed, and when the demand for good-sized dairy and stock ranches calls for it, it will be segregated and offered for sale.

GEORGE H. LONG

Is one well and favorably known throughont South- ern California, where he has resided for the past

twenty years, as a farmer upon his own property, and as superintendent of large ranches for others. This gentleman was born in Lancaster County, Penn- sylvania, December 25, 1815-a rare Christmas Gift. In his native State he grew up, receiving a good edu- cation and well prepared for a thorough business life. When a stalwart youth, he learned to work in iron, then becoming a prominent industry in Pennsylva- nia, and soon was made Superintendent of Dr. Schoenberger's Iron Works, continuing in that responsible position for seventeen years. In 1851, Mr. Long sailed around Cape Horn for California. He first went to Marysville, in Yuba County, and then into the mines, where he delved for the shining metal during his three years of residence. After that ex- perience he returned to the Atlantic States, and entered the service of the Pennsylvania Central Rail- road Company. Like most of those who have made California their temporary home, and returned to their native State, Mr. Long looked back upon Cali- fornia with fond recollections; and in 1856, again came to make it his permanent home. Here he re- sumed mining operations, which he continued with varied success until 1860, when the excitement of the discovery of the great Comstock Vein called him over the Sierra into Nevada, where he remained one year. In 1861, the search for new mines led him on a prospecting tour into Arizona, of which were related tales of gold nuggets found in the dry soil, and veins of copper ore of extraordinary richness. The attract- ive region in 1861 was along the Colorado River -- the region of desolation, drought and burning sun. Mr. Long was satisfied with one year's experience in such a barren country, and returned to the land of civilization. At Los Angeles, he entered the service of Thomas Dibblee & Brother, on the Santa Anita Ranch. In the fall of 1865, he came to Lom- poc, as superintendent of the ranch property for Hollister & Dibblee, and so faithfully and so success- fully did he manage the large property that he was kept in charge for fifteen years. In that period, the Valley of Lompoc has been changed from a compar- ative wilderness, devoted simply to pastoral purposes, to a wealthy agricultural section, with a busy village that is celebrated throughout the State for its strict temperance and high morality. In 1881, Mr. Long purchased a tract of land of 1,050 acres, in the " Cañ- ada Honda," which is well adapted to grazing, and on this fine ranch he has about 375 head of choice stock. A view of this valuable place is shown in this volume. In this pleasant and romantic section he has secured a property and a home to give happiness and comfort for the declining years of a well-spent life.

Mr. Long was married in 1870, to Miss Mary Daw- son, from Philadelphia, by which marriage four chil- dren have been born, two of whom are sons, and two daughters.

THE PROFITS OF SHEEP-RAISING. .

In the year 1862, the still existing partnership Col. W. W. Hollister, Hubbard Hollister (since

GEO. H. LONG.

POINT TRANQUILLON

CANADA HONDA STOCK RANCH & RESIDENCE OF GEO H LONG

SANTA BARBARA CO CAL.

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THE WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.

deceased), Albert Dibblee and Thos. B. Dibblee Was formed, and in 1863 the firm bought the Rancho Lompoc of More Bros., paying therefor $1.50 per acre, or something over 860,000, the grant containing 42,085 acres. They stocked it with 10,000 head of sheep, mostly grade merinos. The cost of obtaining legal possession was about 815,000, yet from the profits of that investment they were able to purchase rancho after rancho, until in 1874 their aggregate pos- sessions amounted to 140,000 acres. embracing seven entire grants and part of another, viz .: Rancho Lom- poe and Mission Vieja de la Purissima, 46,516 acres; La Santa Anita, 13,319 acres; La Gaviota, 8,500 acres (these last being subdivisions of Rancho Nuestra Señora del Refugio); La Espada, 16,500 acres (a sub- division of Rancho Punta de la Concepcion), Cañada de Salsipuedes, 6,656 acres; an interest in Las Cruces, and, largest and best, San Julian, 48,221 acres. The entire value of the property, land and sheep, was in the neighborhood of a million and a half' dollars.

The natural increase of flocks in this favored coun- try is something marvelous. In 1862 these flock- masters made a special purchase of 300 pure Spanish merino ewes, and in 1864 added 100 more to the number. In 1875 the count was 14,193 ewes, which, with the same number of males raised during the same period, made the aggregate increase 28,000 in about twelve years.

In 1872 their wool clip exceeded 250,000 pounds the spring clip selling for 25 cents and the fall elip 15 cents.

Total sales of wool. $ 84,375

Sales of sheep, 11,016 head. 40,260

Total $124,635

In 1873 the clip was 338,131 pounds.

Proceeds $ 74,879

Sales of sheep, 14,500. 48,408

Total $123,287

In 1874 the clip was 316,597 pounds.

Proceeds.

$ 70,316

Sheep sold, 16,500 53,933

Total $124,249

(It should be stated that the sheep sales for 1874 were exceptionally large, on account of the sale of the Lompoc Rancho.)

The annual expenses for work and permanent improvements averages from 830,000 to $35,000.

RANCHO PUNTA DE LA CONCEPCION.

This tract of land, comprising the Ranchos La Espada and El Cojo, includes an area of 24,992.04 acres. Its coast line begins about three miles east of Point Concepcion and extends northwesterly a dis- tance of about twenty miles. Its interior boundary is nearly parallel to its coast line and about three and a half miles from it. To the north lie the Lompoc

lands and San Julian Rancho, and to the east Sain Julian Rancho and Rancho Nuestra Señora del Refu- gio. In its northern part, next to the Lompoc lands, it partakes of their general character of mesa lands and low valley hills; but in its southern portion, about Point Concepcion, its ragged outlines constitute a picturesque scene seldom surpassed.

The distinguishing feature of the Santa Barbara Coast is its sudden trend at Point Concepcion, from a line below, lying nearly east and west, to the line above, lying nearly north and south. Point Con- cepcion is a characteristic and remarkable head- land, about 220 feet in height, lying at the west- ern entrance to Santa Barbara Channel. It is a high promontory, stretching boldly into the ocean, and terminating abruptly. Its position, as given by the coast survey is, latitude 34º north; longitude 120° west. Next to the islands of the channel, Point Concepcion is the most prominent and interesting feature between San Francisco and Lower California. It has very justly been termed the " Cape Horn " and "Cape Hatteras" of the Pacific, on account of the heavy northwesters that are here met with upon coming out of the channel, and a great change of climate and meteorological condi- tions, the transition being remarkably sudden and well-defined. Vessels are frequently seen coming from the eastward with all sails set, and in a very little time reduced to short canvas npon approaching the cape. The cape was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called Cape Galera, but was afterwards named Punta de la Limpio Concepcion.

The view from the headland is wide, extended and magnificent. It bears a light-house, whose lantern is 250 feet above the water. Its light, in clear weather, can be plainly seen from the hills behind Santa Barbara, more than forty miles away. From those hills, and also from the north, the point rises more like an island than a promontory. The illumin- ating apparatus is of the first order of the system of Fresnel, and exhibits a revolving white light, show- ing a flash every half minute. The light-house is a story-and-a-half brick building, plastered, having a a low tower, also of brick, plastered white, rising from the center. It has now been over twenty-one years since the light was first exhibited.

There is a fog whistle and a fog bell. The bell is sounded during thick weather every thirteen and a half seconds. An engine furnishes the power for all necessary operations.

There has been some trouble about the title to the lands upon which the light-house stands. The light- house was constructed on the supposition that the land belonged to the Government, but it turned out that it belonged to the grant subsequently purchased by the Murphys, of San Jose. Congress has been petitioned from time to time to repair the build- ings at this point, and construct needed improve- ments, but declined because the title could not be

29 4

HISTORY OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY.

obtained; but in 1881 Martin and P W. Murphy, in consideration of $10,000, conveyed to the United States Government a title to the light-house buildings, etc., and thirty acres of land adjoining.

The rarest, sorts of sea-shells are found here. The land behind the point is sand-drift, and falls off gradually for three-quarters of a mile, and then as gradually rises for nearly two miles more to the base of the mountain. The body of the land adjacent to the point, on the coast, is good pasture in a fair year, being a part of the rancho of El Cojo, famous for its rich grazing and fine beef, and is owned by IIon. P. W. Murphy, of San Luis Obispo. The anchorage at El Cojo is an exceptionally good one, being in the lee of the cape.

Point Arguello lies about twelve miles and Point Pedermantes fourteen miles up the coast from Point Concepcion. At the former point the Sudden Wharf was built about the year 1881, for the accommoda- tion of the Lompoe Colony. Some cereals are raised in the northern part of the rancho. but cattle-raising is the principal business. On March 1. 1880, there were forty horses and 1,400 cattle upon the rancho.

There are hot sulphur springs on the Espada Rancho, three miles from Point Arguello. The

RANCHO NUESTRA SENORA DEL RUFUGIO

Was granted to Antonio Maria Ortega, August 1, 1834. and contained 26,529 acres. It has a coast line of about twenty miles, and an average depth from the coast of three miles. The Gaviota Pass, which rudely cleaves the Santa Barbara Mountains from north to south, separates the rancho into two nearly equal portions. The west half of it, lying in the Lompoc district, consists of a series of valleys open- ing upon the sea, separated by intervening ridges which extend quite down to the sea-shore, intercept- ing travel along the beach. In its topography it is simply a continuation of the San Julian Rancho, which lies to its north, and Point Concepcion which lies to the west. It is mainly utilized as a sheep pasture by Hollister & Dibblee. Its stock statisties are given in connection with those of the San Julian Rancho.

THE GAVIOTA PASS.

This remarkable natural gateway is the only pass in the Santa Barbara Mountains between the mouth of the river San Buenaventura and Point Concep- cion. It is a mighty cleft in the mountain, through which the stage road runs to the Santa Ynez Valley, the upper Los Alamos Valley, and nearly the whole length of the Santa Maria Valley. Once through the mountains on their southern slope, the road turns directly to the east, and follows the coast to Santa Barbara. The courses of the Santa Ynez Valley, the range of mountains, and the coast, are, in their general direction, parallel lines. The road at the summit heyond Las Cruces, runs 400 or 500 feet above the ocean, but the walls of the pass proper, which is only a couple of miles in length, rise sheer

full 700 feet above the Gaviota Creek, which here forces its way through the limestone rock of this mighty range, forming a pass wild and tortuous, nar- row and high-walled. The Gaviota Pass is an impor- tant outlet for a wide scope of country behind the mountains, including, indeed, all the western part of the county' except such portions whose convenience is best served by the narrow-gauge railroad, or by the shipping points at Point Sal and Chute Land- ing, and the Lompoe and Sudden Wharves. Thc Gaviota Landing is a good and very safe one, and a substantial wharf, 1,000 feet long, with a water depth of twenty-five feet at its outer end, built in 1875, by Hollister & Dibblee, accommodates all the shipping business. San Francisco steamers stop here weekly for passengers and freight. A large business is done at the wharf, principally in live-stock, wool, general merchandise, grain in sacks, miscellaneous farm and ranch produce and lumber. The freight on merchan- dise from San Francisco is $5.00 per ton; wharfage, $1.00. Prodnee is shipped to San Francisco for $3.00 per ton; wharfage $1.00. The wharf is about twenty- two miles from the Lompoc and thirty-eight miles from Santa Barbara. Mr. F. Burke has charge of the wharf, and also of the stage station and inn, post-office, and store. Mr. Burke farms about 100 acres, principally for hay, and keeps 700 sheep, 100 head of cattle, and thirty horses. A peculiarity of this wharf, or rather of this locality, is a strong off- shore wind, a cold blast always coming down the pass, consequently no vessel is ever thrown against the shore. This off-shore wind, however, interferes with the landing of sailing vessels.

The scenery is very bold, and furnishes a good subject for a painter. The highly inclined stratifiea- tion of the rocks furnishes an excellent study for the geologist.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.

Los Alamos Valley -- Juan B Careaga-La Laguna Rancho-Los Alamos Rancho-Town of Los Alamos-C. D. Patterson- Alexander Leslie-Highway Robbery -- J. D. Snyder-Todos Santos Rancho-Jesus Maria Rancho-Lompoc Wharf -- Casmali Rancho-Point Sal-Incidents at Point Sal-C. H. Clark -- Chute Landing-The Upper Santa Ynez Valley -- Las Cruces-Geo. W. Lewis-Las Cruces Rancho-San Carlos de Jonata Rancho-R. T. Buell-Corral de Cuati Rancho -- La Zaca-College Rancho-Town of Santa Ynez -- San Marcos Rancho-The Tequepis Rancho-Los Prietos y Naja'ayegna -- Rancho las Lomas de la Purificacion -- Rancho Nojoqui-Falls of Nojoqni.

LYING between the Santa Ynez and the Santa Maria Valleys, the Los Alamos stretches twenty-five miles from the coast to the La Laguna Rancho at its head, being in no place more than three miles across. It is drained by an arroyo of the same name, which flows almost due west. This district comprises the following ranchos: La Laguna, Los Alamos, Todos Santos, north half of Jesus Maria, Casmali, and

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THE WESTERN PART OF THE COUNTY.

adjoining Government lands, i. e., lands acquired from the United States Government, and the hill lands of Point Sal. It is a land of marvelous fer- tility and beauty, with magnificent timber, princi- pally of live-oak, excellent water, and golden grain waving from hill to hill. It has fertile valleys open- ing into it, and both sides have a very large area of low rolling hills of the richest soil. Los Alamos was subjected to the plow earlier than its neighboring valleys, as it was a valley winding among timbered hills, and consequently sheltered from the sweep of the trade-winds, which were considered a serions detriment to Lompoc and the Santa Maria Valleys.

The rain-fall is probably less than at Santa Bar- bara. The perfection of the crops is believed to be due to the protection the hills afford from drying winds, the great depth of soil and the nearness of water to the surface. The hills afford good feed at all seasons. The yield of wheat in 1880 was 115,000 centals, and the acreage has constantly extended since. The soil is a rich adobe and sandy loam, with occasional patches inclining to a shaley character. Hay erops reach three and a half tons to the acre in an ordinary year, and wacat at least one ton to the acre. In 1880, on L. Markham's farm, his wheat @averaged 3.100 pounds to the acre. The wheat is hard, plump and white.

In 1881 hares, or jack rabbits, entirely destroyed one twenty-acre field of wheat. They were so nu- merous and destructive in one settlement that for some time the settlers rallied every Saturday and killed them by the hundreds, in order to save their crops.

Wheat, barley, corn, beans, flax, and hemp are the staple products of the soil. The latter two grow luxuriantly, and as soon as means are provided for utilizing the fiber, as well as the seed, will no doubt prove very profitable. The grazing interests on the ranchos belonging to this section, as already enu- merated, were represented, May 1, 1881, about as follows: horses, 495; cittle, 1.400; sheep, 50,000. The total acreage of the ranchos, as shown by the United States patents, is 149.305.60 acres.

The arroyo flows for the greater part of its course on the surface, but for short distances it sinks below the upper stratum, and wells are necessary for domestie supply. At a depth of from eight to twenty feet water of an excellent quality and sufficient quan - tity is always obtainable. There is no necessity for irrigation, except porhis for trees for the first year. There are in this district about 40,000 acres adapted to tillage. Priees range from $10 to $35 per aere for traets of 160 acres. Grazing lands rate from $1 to $12 per acre. Land near Los Alamos has sold up to $100 per aere.

There are about fifty settlers in the valley, chiefly renters at one-fifth of the crop. They are allowed the cost of all their improvements and the first right of purchase.

The climate is very healthy. The nights of the winter and spring are quite cool, and the frost, while a tardy visitor in the fall, lingers long in the spring.

There are three or four schools conveniently dis- tributed.

The town of Los Alamos, at the upper end of the valley, is a thriving hamlet, with railroad connection with San Luis Obispo an I Port Hurford, where deep sea ships are laden and take their departure direct for Europe. Within this district are three shipping points by sea, distant from Los Alamos as follows: Point Sal, twenty-five miles; Chute Landing, twenty - two miles; Lompoc Wharf at Point Purissima, twenty- five miles.

That the inhabitants in this valley have prospered is evidenced by the excellent condition of all public and private improvements. The roadds are kept in good order, the farms are being rapidly fenced. and the dwelling-houses, out-buildings and barns are of the best kind, all going to show an easy financial condition.

The Los Alamos was formerly the property of one of the de la Guerra family. It was on the outside, and the gangs of Jack Power and Solomon Pico had full range here. The property is now divided into smaller tracts. John S. Bell bought 17,000 acres some years since for $12,000, which he is now subdividing. Gaspar Oreña owns quite a traet, and further down the valley is the large place of Harris & Careaga, which his been farmed exten- sively for some years. A big law-suit between the partners has brought the place into notice. The old adobe ranch buildings, now fast falling into ruins, still form a striking feature in the topography of the valley, and the railway train, as it rattles by with a shrill scream, seems like a demon mocking the mem- ories of events thirty years since.

JUAN B. CAREAGA.

It is pleasant to find one of the California natives retaining a large share of the patrimonial lands and doing an amount of business indicating an adaptation to the new circumstances. Mr. Careaga is still a young man, his birth dating as recently as 1840, so that his early recollections are of the present regime. Ile seems to have acquired the business manner of the Americans, among whom he has been raised, so that gang-plows, headers and threshing machines have no secrets from him. Ile has been one of the firm of Careaga & Harris, cultivating a tract of 8,000 acres near Los Alamos. The grain and stock raised on the place are consigned to the junior partner of the firm, who resides in San Francisco. The immense amount of produce raised may be inferred from a law- suit between the parties comprising the company, resulting from a slight misunderstanding about their accounts. The difference, however, amounted to $30,000, which was finally adjusted by Judge Fer- nald, acting referee, appointed by the Court to settle the difference.

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History of Santa Barbara county, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers, Part 70

Author: Mason, Jesse D; Thompson & West. 4n Publication date: 1883 Publisher: Oakland, Cal., Thompson & West Number of Pages: 758

Author: Mason, Jesse D; Thompson & West. 4n
Publication date: 1883
Publisher: Oakland, Cal., Thompson & West
Number of Pages: 758