USA > California > Santa Barbara County > History of Santa Barbara county, California, with illustrations and biographical sketches of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 65
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Messrs. Charles H. Fish, L. B. Hogue, Thomas Pye, E. H. Pierce, R. G. Pardee, B. B. Keeler, and others possess very desirable ranches, chiefly devoted to fruit-raising, and nearly all in a high state of cultiva- tion. Several gentlemen residing in Carpenteria have entered upon the business of stock-breeding and horse-raising to a greater or less extent, result- ing in a great deal of good to the farming interest.
LIMA BEANS.
One of the first to succeed with Lima beans was Lawrence Bailard on the place now occupied by his son, John Bailard. Mr. George Doubleday raised an average of 2,500 pounds of Lima beans to the acre. Mr. Doubleday's ranch of fifty acres was sold for $10,000, after having been taxed for years upon a supposed valuation of $1,500.
In order to convey an approximate idea of the relative importance of different agricultural and hor- ticultural products in the Carpenteria region, these condensed statistics for the year 1880, of the Car- penteria Ranch, owned by E. J. Knapp, are intro- duced :-
There are 120 acres cultivated, producing of beans, 83,000 pounds, grown on 49 acres and worth $2,400; turkeys, valne $110; hogs, value $400; butter (from four cows), $150; bees (honey and increase), 8495; fruit, 8400. Thus the total value of the different products was 84,200, making no account of what was consumed on the place. The trees in the orchard are, English walnuts, 800; almonds, 150; oranges and lemons, 100; quince, 30; apples, 400; apricots, 550; plums and prunes, 390; pears, 200; peaches, cherries and nectarines, 100. The orchard is comparatively young, which fact accounts for the small fruit prod- uct of the year.
JOHN BAILARD.
John Bailard, a rising young man, is pointed out as a successful farmer. He is a native product of California, born in 1859. His father, Lawrence Bail- ard, came from Missouri, and was long noted as a
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HISTORY OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY.
most successful farmer. The stories told of his immense crops seem almost incredible. Among others 24,000 pounds of Lima beans were raised from sixteen acres. The product of a single acre was sold for $187. Young Bailard seems to have inherited his father's energy and ability, and is also raising famous crops. The advantage of being to the manor born, and perhaps also better means of acquiring an education were his, hence his success. His highly cultivated place is romantically situated, the gray rocks of the mountains in the rear and the restless sea, with passing vessels, in front. Few persons commence life with such pleasant surroundings as Mr. Bailard: the greater number never reach that degree of prosperity at all, or until the evening of life is near at hand.
THE FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH
Of Carpenteria, was dedicated on June 1, 1873. Ser- vices had been first held in the new building on the 12th of December, of the previous year. For a long time before its organization a feeling had been common among the more refined classes of the vicinity that religious privileges were necessary ; and a few earnest workers began the labor of build- ing up the congregation and the place of worship. At a cost of $2,000 the edifice was reared, the indebt- edness being canceled through the indefatigable exertions of its friends. Mrs. Margaret Bailey, now deceased, contributed $1,000, the remainder being subscribed by various persons. Rev. J. T. Hnff was the first pastor, and by him the church was dedi- cated, the institution being then free of debt, as it still continues. The Sunday-school had been organized December 22, in the previous year. Since Mr. Huff's incumbency, there have been quite a number of other pastors, Messrs. Adams and Hitchcock being of the number. At present the concerns of the church are ministered by Rev. T. G. McLean, formerly of East Oakland, and who assumed the pastorate in February, 1878. . In addition to his duties as pastor, holding regular services twice per month, Mr. McLean officiates at San Buenaventura and Santa Paula, preaching once a month at each place. The original congrega- tion of Carpenteria Baptist Church was composed of Lewis Stark, Asa Adams, Cyrena Adams, Elizabeth Bailey, H. E. Adams and wife, Mrs. Lewis, Mrs. Col- lins and Mrs. Olmstead. None of these persons are now living in the county, but the congregation has increased to about twenty-five.
FLOODS.
An interesting reminiscence of the country about Carpenteria has been the memory of the occurrence of the sudden and almost unexplainable floods, known as cloud-bursts. Several remarkable phenomena of this kind have taken place here within recent years, a very remarkable one happening on the night of December 21, 1879, with the loss of two lives. Ac-
cording to the newspaper accounts of the disaster, Mr. Pettinger and family were living in the vicin- ity of what is known as Pettinger's Canon. Rain had been falling moderately for some days. but not in sufficient quantities to justify any fears of an over- flow. About four o'clock in the morning, the family were awakened by a loud roaring, amid which could be heard the rumble of rolling rocks and the rush of waters, but as it had been heard before, it occasioned no alarm. An hour later it became so loud that Mr. Pettinger and his wife arose and saw that the stream had overflowed its banks, and was bursting through the fence which surrounded the house, bearing with it logs, trees, and everything it found in its course. The flood immediately struck the house bearing it away and crushing it to pieces. Besides Mr. Pet- tinger and his wife, there were two children and two Spaniards sleeping on the premises. When daylight came, all were found in safety, but Mrs. Pettinger and one of the Spaniards. The other Spaniard was washed against a tree to which he clung until the waters subsided. The body of Mrs. Pettinger was found about two miles below, buried in sand-drift, and though dressed at the time of the occurrence, every vestige of clothing was torn off by the force of the flood. The body of the Spanish boy was found not far away. An examination of the cañon showed that the water had been raised in places to a height of forty feet.
A similar overflow occurred in 1861, on the stream which issues from a cañon ahove Mr. Heath's ranch, and runs across that property. According to the account of the family, the night was clear and moon- lit, though rain had fallen during the day, ceasing some hours before. Mr. Heath's house stood on a plain some miles in extent, and distant from the mountains perhaps one mile. The family were awakened, as in the case just related, by the sound of rushing waters, and on going to the door, were met by the water rushing in, and found the whole plain covered eighteen inches deep with running water. Measures were taken to secure the house, and as it was so far from the mouth of the canon in which the cloud-burst had occurred, the damage was slight. The creek in a very short time had formed a new channel sixty feet wide and eight feet deep, in which it still runs.
THE RINCON RANCH,
In the extreme southeast of the county, is now the property of E. Daily. (Rincon is the Span- ish for corner). This ranch has always maintained a high reputation for fertility, and is advantageously located. In 1868 there were 400 acres of land under cultivation, as is recorded in the newspapers of that date. On the border of Mr. Daily's place is a noted mineral soap mine, which was worked to some extent in the fall of 1879, when 200 tons of the mineral were taken out, and being shipped to San Francisco, was manufactured. Mr. Frank Walker,
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the discoverer, was fortunate, in his conncetion with the matter, as he sold his share in it for $3,000 cash.
THE CARPENTERIA WHARF,
Owned by F. and J. M. Smith, has been mentioned many times in connection with the previous history of the county. Like all the wharves on the unprotected portions of the coast, it has experienced many mis- haps, and like all has had to be rebuilt, after, at least, one severe storm. Experience, however, has aided in putting it into a substantial condition, so that it now serves the wants of the community in the shipment of grain and fruit. Large and commodious warehouses, with a railway connect- ing with the sea end, make shipping compara- tively easy and safe. The wharf proper is 800 feet long, and reaches water deep enough for any vessels navigating the coast. The wharf is sheltered from the trade-winds by the islands, and from the north- ers by the projecting points of the coast to the west. The warehouses are 20x40 feet and 36x42 feet, respectively, and are provided with the Buf- falo platform scales. The principal shipments are corn, beans, nuts, and fruits, and aggregate yearly abont 3,000 tons. No wheat is shipped: the soil of Carpenteria produees good wheat, but is of more worth for the valuable fruits, such as walnuts, oranges, lemons, and limes. Lima beans constitute a large element in the productions of Carpenteria, yield- ing enormously, and generally bringing a good price. It is believed that steamers will soon make regular trips between this port and San Francisco to carry to market the fine fruits which are beginning to become plentiful here. About 250,000 feet of lumber are landed yearly at the wharf, which is mostly used for building and fencing.
The view in this work gives the general appear- anee of the wharf and its vicinity. The houses are of the rustic Gothie style, and harmonize well with the surroundings. The proprietors are well situated, and when not engaged in business, find recreation and improvement in a well-stocked miscellaneous library. They dispense a liberal hospitality towards friends and acquaintances, and have the confidence and respect of the community.
THE ORTEGA HILL.
This noted hill derives its name from the raneho of the same name, including the hill in its boundaries. The elevation is a lateral spur from the mountains, and may be 600 feet or more in height, and projects boldly into the sea, making it a difficult matter to build a road around it. The beach at low water is passable, but at high tide the surf beats forcibly against the rocks, preventing any passage. Many thousand dollars have been expended in making a road around and over it. It was a dread subject with the first Boards of Supervisors, who were often called upon to repair the road, which was the only way of
communication with the territory now organized into Ventura County. The road was formerly built along the edge of the bluff, but whenever a rain occurred portions of it would slide into the sea, necessitating frequent costly repairs. A fine grade has recently been made around the hill, some distance from the ocean, so that source of trouble is ended. The old roads are still easily traced.
The different railroad companies also dreaded the Ortega Hill as a serions difficulty, and various plans were projected to flank the obstruetion. The old ranch house at the foot of the hill was the scene of the murder of Trabacco, mentioned in another place. There are some nice places in the vicinity, where the orange and lemon and the vine flourish well.
GOLETA-EARLY HISTORY.
Goleta is the name given to a rancho, which was the grant granted in June, 1846, to Daniel Hill, and con- taining then 4,440 acres. It comprises a part of the section known as La Patera, the general designation of the distriet lying to the west of Santa Barbara and comprising all that portion of the valley between the city and the Rancho Canada del Corral. West- ward from Santa Barbara the first grant is the Calera, or Las Positas, a grant of 3,281 aeres, made to Narcisso Fabrigat in 1843, and confirmed to Thomas M. Robbins and Manuela de Tines. The Rancho Goleta lies to the west beyond it, being the large grant Dos Pueblos of 15,535 acres, and to the west of the above-mentioned Rancho Canada del Corral, of 8,875 aeres. The Dos Pueblos grant was made to Nicolas A. Den, April 18, 1842; the Cañada to José Dolores Ortega on November 5, 1841. Since the influx of Americans these grants have become broken up into smaller tracts, which are farmed in a more progressive manner, and to-day there is not a more productive region in the State than the Patera. The greater portion of the surface is mesa-that is, table- land-of the highest productiveness. At the western extremity of the Patera the mesas begin as a series of low plains or plateaus, some fifty or sixty feet above the sea level, but rising to a greater elevation as Santa Barbara is approached, their greatest height being 600 or 800 feet. Some twenty miles of the Santa Ynez Range is visible at the Goleta, its eastern extremity apparently reaching down to the shore and dipping the feet of the cliff's in the sea waves. From there, for ten or more miles, the main ridge appears to let itself down with a gradually lessen- ing line of cones, like the steps of a monster stair- case. Eastward the mesas seem to approach nearer and nearer, until their junction bounds the view to the east. Beyond is the slope at whose foot rests Santa Barbara, the towers of the Mission Church rising into vision. To the west of the Patera a line of low hills start from the Santa Ynez Mountains and trend away to the coast, west and southwest, completing the inclosure of the valley.
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HISTORY OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY.
LA PATERA.
"Here, then, lies La Patera, spreading out to the front, at our feet, toward the mesas and the sea, into broad and rich bottoms-the surface more broken and rising as we appproach the mountains back-pre- senting often beautiful, even slopes to the south and southeast, which look down upon the valley and out upon the ocean, the view of which widens as we may choose to ascend their sides. We have found many of the ravines and defiles singularly beautiful, as we drive along them, shaded by the oak and syca- more, now narrowing into mere roadways and then widening into acres of more luxuriant vegetation, deepening as they wind around the gigantic slides and the hills of steadily increasing altitude, until they become, as they reach and seem to enter the mount- ain side, the almost inaccessible cañons we hear of in descriptions of California scenery.
" The valley is well wooded. The sycamore, of course, only seeks the moister ravines and the banks of the water-courses, but the beautiful live-oak waves its foliage on the hill-sides and on the plain, and seems placed so as to produce the most pleasing effect on the eye-somtimes single, then in groups, and then again in patches of twenty-five to one hun- dred acres in dense forest, giving a park-like aspect in every direction.
" These live-oaks are the handsomest we have seen in California. They are large and generally most symmetrical in form, bearing evidence of gentle winds through the periods of their growth, unlike those which shade the valleys to the north, where, as we have seen in Santa Clara County, the strong and constant wind currents give them a one-sided growth and bend them into ungainly shapes.
" But a few hours ago, near the base of the mount- ain, two miles away from where we stand, we drove through a grove of these oaks, the most remarkable we have anywhere met. It contained about 100 acres, the trees growing so dense, that standing by the base of any one of them, a long-armed man could stretch out and touch its fellow. The trunks, not averaging over two feet through at the ground, were generally branchless for twenty feet, when their heads seemed to bend to each other, their long arms to interlace, forming a complete leafy canopy over our heads. We seemed to move in a dim relig- ious twilight, the sun here and there only, peeping through rustic arches, and we could fancy the smooth roadway a broad cathedral isle along which our faith- ful Johnnie now slackened his gait to a slow and dignified step, and S. commenced involuntarily the opening lines of a vesper hymn.
" God made this valley beautiful indeed, and pre- pared it well for ornamentation by the hand of man. " Progress and development in this county may be said to date from five years ago, and the stranger, as he moves around, may witness with his own eyes magnificent crops of cereals, vegetables, and roots of all the kinds grown in our northern California, and, in addition, seni-tropical growths of nut and fruit trees, many of them in bearing, and all without a particle of irrigation. We are surprised, indeed, and ask ourselves, how can this be with only eight inches of rain ? The demonstration before our eyes of the capabilities of this Santa Barbara soil is as conclu- sive as are the outgoing cargoes of the value of California generally as a wheat-growing State.
" Here, in La Patera, I have learned something of this matter. Seeing squashes being planted in the dry field (something, in the North, we would not
think of doing in July), I went over to inquire how it was. Drawing the dry dirt from the surface about eight inches down I found the soil very moist, what I took up packing in my hand. Into this the seeds were placed, the moist soil first, and then the dry being drawn over. In five days the squashes were up. I could see that in such a soil water in any form would be a detriment to the plant. Pota- toes planted in the same field two weeks before were just coming up, and acres of corn adjoining, now of fine dark color and well setting in ear, were all planted since the last rain, and certainly would mature without a drop of water."
The road leading westward from Santa Barbara passes along near the shore, and has always, since the occupation, been an important highway. The steep Santa Ynez, or Santa Barbara range, running parallel to the shore, has fenced in the Santa Bar- bara Valley and made it almost entirely inaccessible from the north, except through one or two passes, so-called. Hence it is impossible to enter the town or the valley by land, except from the east or west. The passes referred to are the Gaviota, and the San Marcos through which the toll-road leading to the Santa Ynez Valley passes.
To return to the description of the Goleta. The soil of large portions of this and neighboring ranchos is of the richest adobe, and carries an uncommon amount of sub-surface moisture. This latter pecu- liarity doubtless arises from the existence of a per- vious subsoil which allows of the upward passage of the water from still lower depths, by which a con- stant supply is brought to the surface by the agency of capillary attraction. Thus the production of crops is made certain in dry years-another of the pecu- liar advantages of the locality under discussion.
The little town or village of Goleta lies about eight miles west of Santa Barbara, and contains a population of some 200. No longer ago than 1877 it contained a church, store, lumber yard, blacksmith shop, school house, and post-office. It was surveyed off in 1875. At that time, and for some years after, it had not a single saloon. More's Landing is the designation of the wharf at Goleta. It is a durable structure, 900 feet long and about thirty-five feet wide, with about eleven feet of water at low tide at the outer end, a sufficient depth for the purposes for which it is used. Its use is in shipping stock to and from the islands, and farm produce to San Francisco, and for the receipt of lumber from that port. On the beach near the wharf, exists a very large and valuable deposit of asphaltum, thousands of tons in extent. It has been worked to a small extent, some 2,000 tons having been shipped to San Francisco in the year 1876. In the Patera there are many small tracts of from five to twenty acres, which have come into the hands of industrious men of small means, whose industry and energy have supplemented the lack of funds, and their respective places have been made to bloom in a manner surprising to people who do not know the resources and fertility of the locality.
E
SAN JOSE VINEYARD JAMES MC CAFFREY PROP SANTA BARBARA CO CAL
" QUI MADA STOR
STORE & HOME OF P. BARON, 30 MILES FROM SANTA BARBARA, CAL.
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SUBURBS OF SANTA BARBARA.
The places belonging to these settlers are usually laid out with gardens in front, and other evidencex of culture and enlightenment. Their pretty, home- like appearance lends a charm to the neighborhood. The principal products of the lands of the Patera are beans, corn. hay, beets, Lima beans, castor- beans, potatoes, squashes, flax, barley, walnuts, pea- nuts, almonds, apples, pears, apricots, and peaches. The fruit finds sale at the cannery in Santa Barbara, or else is rendered marketable by drying, the de- mand for green fruit for immediate consumption being. of course, limited.
One of the best cultivated places in the Patera is
THE FARM OF J. D. PATTERSON.
It consists of 250 acres, usually devoted to the pro- duction of hay, beans, and squashes, and to fruit, there being a large orchard on the place. The culti- vated portion of the farm is surrounded on three sides by a fine belt of timber land. Huge live-oaks conceal the house, while several hundred gum and pepper trees lend beauty to the estate. In certain places the aver- age crop of Lima beans reaches 1,500 pounds per acre, wbile the corn crop is frequently as high as seventy- five or eighty bushels per acre. The orchard contains the usual assortment of fruit trees, as apple, pear, peach, apricot, nectarine, quince, almond, etc.
In past years Mr. B. C. Langdon has experimented largely in
TOBACCO RAISING,
His farm of eighty acres having been largely devoted to that branch of industry. In 1876 he possessed a field of thirty acres planted in this valuable growth, it being the only plantation of the kind in the county, and one of the few in the State. Mr. Lang- don's crop was 60,000 pounds, or 2,000 pounds per acre. Compared with Eastern tobacco, it was pronounced to be of the first quality. The neces- sary drying-houses were erected on the estate, and the successful raising, gathering, and curing of the crop were effected for several years. The drought in 1876 prevented the planting, consequently no tobacco was harvested in that year, but at other times large and valuable crops were secured.
Besides the tobacco crop, it is customary to raise on the ranch considerable crops of corn and hay. and a small amount of stock is kept. The characteristics of the tobacco place it above almost any other brand in the market, as the leaf is large and heavy, and when cured has a pleasant golden tint. It is princi- pally sold for manufacture into plugs.
Mr. James McCaffrey's
SAN JOSE VINEYARD
Is one of the oldest and finest in California, and con- tains 2,400 vines that were planted by the Mission Fathers nearly a century ago, and an equal number set out by the owner ten or twelve years ago. This property was purchased from the Catholic author- ities. Eight thousand gallons of wine is an average
product for this vineyard, and all that is made is of an excellent quality, as is proved by the owner's po - session of a diploma granted by the Mechanics' Institute of San Francisco, to the maker of the best port wine on exhibition at its Fair.
James McCaffrey, the proprietor of this vineyard. has had an experience which reads like a tale by a master of fiction. He was born Jannary 6, 1811, in the parish of Augnamullen, town of Drumloothe, county of Monaghan, Ireland. He received such education as the English Government permitted its poor subjects to obtain. The parish school was three miles away, and young McCaffrey walked this distance in the winter season, his bare feet leaving their tracks in the snow and slush which covered the ground. IIe carried along a piece of dry turf to stand on and warm his toes when the cold become unbearable. This was certainly obtaining knowl- edge under difficulties. He managed to learn read- ing and writing, however, Which was certainly creditable. His ancestry was humble, though honest and respectable, and he was early taught to fear God and keep his commandments.
At a suitable age he was taught the trade of a tailor, at which calling he continued until he was able to make any garment. He was married in 1836 to Miss Mary Bready, whose mother was a native of the same parish in which he was born. She was a native of county Cavan. After marriage he returned to the shop in England where he learned his trade. Too close application injured his health, and he became unable to continue at work, and finally be- came confined to his bed. Happily, he was a mem- ber of the Saint John's Consolidated Union of Tailors, wbo came to his assistance, furnishing medical attendance and paying his expenses. He was able to be around again in four weeks. His physician then informed him that the climate was not good for his health, and that he must leave the country if he expected to live. In a week he and his wife started for Liverpool to take passage for Australia, the place recommended by his physician. He embarked on the ship Thomas Lowrey, Captain Graham commander. April, 1840, and reached Sydney in ninety days, having stopped a few days at the Cape of Good Hope. In Sydney he found plenty of work and accumulated some property, his best customers being Government and bank clerks, who had plenty of money. In 1844 he had the misfortune to lose his wife. His eldest child soon followed the mother to the grave.
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