USA > Oregon > Douglas County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 44
USA > Oregon > Jackson County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 44
USA > Oregon > Josephine County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 44
USA > Oregon > Coos County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 44
USA > Oregon > Curry County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 44
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66 | Part 67 | Part 68 | Part 69 | Part 70 | Part 71 | Part 72 | Part 73 | Part 74 | Part 75 | Part 76 | Part 77 | Part 78 | Part 79 | Part 80 | Part 81 | Part 82
" Having reached and crossed the river at Hannah's ferry, we turned our course up stream. As we move on, the valley grows narrower and farms and farm houses are fewer, while the rapid river grows swifter, the forest denser and more rugged. Fifty miles of our journey brings us to 'the bridge.' Here the river has narrowed to seventy- five feet in width and runs with fearful rapidity between steep and rocky banks. In a distance of one and a half miles from this point the river falls 300 feet and passes through a deep gorge in the mountains, rushing at times down a steep declivity, then leaping impetuously from rock to rock, lashing itself into fury and foam, whirling in eddies or resting a moment in some protected basin before plunging fifty feet with a rush and roar, only to repeat the same wild phantasies as it rolls wildly on to the ocean. Ere reaching the foot of the first rapids, the roar of the mighty waters in the distance rises above the din of those at our feet, and moving as rapidly as the character of the country will permit, we discover through the trees the snowy foam of the great falls or one branch of the river as it plunges with a single leap over a perpendicular cliff 184 feet, without a break, into the rapid flood below. The fall is one of the finest to be found in these wild and solitary regions.
" Old bruin of the grizzly species, is found in great numbers ; deer, elk, and other game are also plentiful. Leaving the roar and gloom about the falls of Rogue river, we journey on towards our destination, which is still forty miles away. Our road lies through one of the finest forests of the state. Here the sugar pine and fir grow to the height of 250 and 300 feet, with diameter in many instances from six to ten feet, and
311
JACKSON COUNTY.
will doubtless some day be utilized with great profit. For many miles there is nothing to vary the monotony of this interminable forest, until we find our road running along the edge of a canyon which by time and water has been washed down the mountain sides to considerable depth. This wash occurred many years ago as the forest trees have grown in it to an enormous size. The great curiosity of this canyon, however, are the columns or pyramids of rocky cement standing at the bottom of the gorge, and with a base of thirty or forty feet, reach a height of seventy-five or one hundred. These pyramids have evidently been composed of a harder substance than that which sur- rounded them and did not yield so readily to the action of water; hence, were thus preserved as items in the great panorama of curiosities to be found in this wild region.
"Having reached a point within ten or twelve miles of the summit of the moun- tain, our road becomes gradually steeper and more difficult to ascend. Here, too, evidences of volcanic action are more apparent. Great masses of pumice stone and lava are seen scattered about. The character of vegetation gradually changes, and fir predominates in this altitude. When three miles from the summit, we turn to the left, and after toiling for a mile over seoria, pumice and lava, we go into camp and pre- pare to make the remaining two miles, which is quite steep, on horseback or afoot. The weather for camping is excellent, and the denseness of the fir timber gives pro- tection from the winds. Open glades at hand present a very tempting feast for our jaded horses and we soon have the satisfaction of seeing them revelling in clover and redtop, knee high, while the rippling sound of the many pebbly brooks near by give assurance of an abundance of nature's beverage as pure as though just distilled from drops of pearly dew.
"It is well to take the early morn for the remainder of our journey, and breathe the morning air from the mountain tops. A night's rest in these high altitudes, coffee and bacon before sunrise, and the invigorating air give life and vigor, and soon we find ourselves tripping up the mountain at a rate only to be maintained a few moments without rest. The ascent is not remarkably steep-in fact wagons can be driven to the very brink-yet at such an altitude the air is very rare and light and one soon becomes exhausted and overcome by exertion. As we advance, the scenery about us changes rapidly, yet there is no indication of a body of water ahead; in fact we appear to have reached an elevation beyond which it is not reasonable to expect it. The trees become more dwarfish and scraggy. The grass is less abundant, and we miss the brooks and springs so plentiful just below. We halt now and then beneath the shade of thick clusters of fir, to gather breath and rest our weary limbs. Occa- sionally through openings in the trees we get glimpses of towering peaks, deep gorges and wide spreading forests in the distance. All at once and without a moment's warn- ing we find ourselves emerging from the timber into an amphitheater-like opening. Towering rocks rise up on either hand and in front and point skyward; around and about us is spread a scene of desolation. Huge masses of lava, ashes, pumice stone and rocks of igneous formation lie scattered about. Just beyond us risc a semi-circle of peaks towering from 500 to 1,000 feet above us and encircling an area of about eight by fifteen miles. A few minutes more bring us to the brink of Crater lake, where, standing on a pinnacle of rocks, we gaze with silent wonder into its awful depths. None can look upon the scene without feeling a sense of his own insignifi-
312
SOUTHERN OREGON.
cance steal over him, and he involuntarily shudders, in contemplating the awful work wrought by an unseen and mighty power."
Though second to the scenery of the Cascades in grandeur, attractiveness and renown, the natural beauties of the various subordinate mountain ranges yet deserve remark and close scrutiny. The Canyon mountains, the ranges bordering upon the valley of the Applegate, and the mountains about Butte creek possess characteristics of such interest as in any country but Southern Oregon would bring celebrity. There is much even in the tamer scenery of the valleys to excite the imagination, kindle curios- ity and gratify the taste of a thinking mind. Nowhere else in America, possibly not in the world have the forces of nature so conspired to beautify and render a region thoroughly delightful as in the Rogue river valley. Men of taste and experience have with unanimity pronounced it unrivalled in its own beauty and in the grandeur of its surroundings. All that nature could yield of majesty in altitude, of magnificence in distance and of variety in coloring has been lavished upon the Rogue river valley in unstinted measure.
The diversity of scenery is pleasing in the extreme. After a long ride on steep mountain grades, through narrow canyons or dense forests the traveler, ascending a commanding elevation, catches as it were a glimpse of Paradise in the rolling hills and the lovely plain checkered with ploughed or green fields and diversified with streams whose borders are fringed by the oak or the lofty cone-bearing trees. Range after range of hills, low in the fore-ground, but successively rising in elevation until they assume the dignity of mountains, intercept the vision, and leave the imagination to con- ceive of the picturesque valleys and pleasant streams embraced between them. Finally, and as a fitting termination to such a scene, the sharp pointed summit of the lofty Cas- cades rise overtopping all else. The poet of Southern Oregon has not yet begun to sing, but no one can doubt that there is enough of poetical grandeur and beauty in these mountains and vales to furnish inspiration for the deepest and mightiest of songs.
The Rogue river, a stream of great celebrity and historical importance, forming, perhaps, the most noticeable geographical feature of this region, was called by the natives Trashit. Its English name was early applied, but the origin of the designa- tion is now only a matter of conjecture. It is usually taken for granted that it was a term of reproach applied by early travelers to the Indians upon its banks. Archbishop Blanchet wrote: "Rogue river, Rogue river valley, in French is La riviere aux Coquins, La rallee aux Coquins-so-called on account of the wickedness of the Indians in that part of the country." It is well known that the first class of travelers through the region were trappers of the Hudson's Bay company, a majority of whom were of French descent and spoke the French language. They gave names to certain geographical features of the country, some of which are still in vogue. The designa- tion adduced by the reverend writer fully translated would be equivalent to the English word Rogue, which would reasonably enough be preferred by Americans, in default of a more characteristic term. Another hypothesis derives the name from the French word rouge, red, and supports this by saying that the stream has or had a peculiar reddish tinge, derivable, perhaps, from the sediment brought down by high water. An apocryphal story is instanced to the effect that a French vessel, passing the mouth of the river, observed the deep hue of the waters, and gave in consequence
WALLING -LITH - PORTLANDDR.
TABLE ROCK FARM, RESIDENCE OF E. P. PICKENS, JACKSON CO.
313
JACKSON COUNTY.
the name rouge. Still others have said that the cliffs at the mouth of the river, bear- ing a reddish tint were seen by the French vessel, whence the name Ririere Rouge, or Red river. But it is evident that the hypothesis of a French vessel on this part of the coast is an invention and an unnecessary one, because of the presence of the French Hudson Bay explorers on shore. These two derivations of the name do not by any means possess equal claims to credence, for the latter is intrinsically the most reasonable. There is hardly a doubt but that the French trappers named the stream, as they were wont to bestow numerous geographical terms, some of which are yet in vogue, as the Coquille, The Dalles, Des Chutes, Malheur, etc. But be it understood, they were in the habit of bestowing geographical names derived from physical pecu- liarities, and not by any means from moral attributes. It would have been in keeping with their customs to name this stream Riviere Rouge, but not Riviere aux Coquins. We search in vain for the latter designation upon the map of British North America, their abiding place and from whence they crossed the Rocky mountains to the Pacific shore; but we find several Ririeres Rouges, two considerable waterways in the United States having once borne that name, but now known as Red river. Again, the Indians must have been named after the river, and not the river from the Indians, since we never hear or see the designation Rogue Indians, but always Rogue River Indians. Hence it follows that as the river received its name first, that name could only have been Rouge, as Coquin would be entirely inapplicable to a stream of water. Were the Indians primarily named Rogues or its French equivalent, it is remarkable, to say the least, that the river should receive next their peculiar designation, and then its own name be conferred on the Indians, with the addition of the word river or its French equivalent. This is a very significant and interesting etymological conundrum indeed, and only to be settled provisionally. There is yet another consideration, that it is unlikely that the French trappers, men of vast experience among savages, whose traditions were derived from two centuries of life with or warring against innumerable tribes, should reserve an opprobrious designation for a tribe of Indians in Southern Oregon. Rather would they have given it to the fierce Iroquois, the untamable Sioux or the cruel Blackfeet, enemies powerful and remorseless. In the absence of direct testimony, it appears by far the most likely that the river was originally named Rouge by the trappers, which, by the easiest perversion imaginable, was changed by English- speaking men into Rogue, which it has since remained.
By legislative enactment dated in the winter of 1853-4, Rogue river was to have been known as Gold river, a somewhat more euphonious and possibly more appropriate designation than the usual one; but this name never achieved currency outside of the legislative chambers.
Of the minor streams of Jackson county, there are the Big Butte, Little Butte, Antelope, and Dry creeks, with their lesser tributaries, rising in the eastern part of the county and flowing westward into the Rogue above the Table Rocks. Bear creek, otherwise called Mary's river and Stewart creek (the latter the name of a gal- lant military officer who was killed near its banks), rises near the southern boundary and flowing northwest empties into the main river near Table Rock. The Applegate, indifferently called river or creek, also rises near the California line. Its direction is northwest ; it is formed by the junction of the Big and Little Applegate; it receives 41
314
SOUTHERN OREGON.
the waters of Sterling, Williams, Forest, and other creeks, and passing into Josephine county it enters the Rogue in township 36 south, range 6 west. This stream drains a very considerable region, mostly covered with rugged mountain ranges, deep canyons and wooded steeps, in all perhaps not less than 1,000 square miles. East of the sources of the Applegate and Bear creek some small streams, notably Jenny creek, with its tributaries Beaver and Keene creeks (the latter deriving its name from Granville Keene, killed thereon by Indians on or about September 3, 1855), flow south into Klamath river. On the north side of Rogue river rise Button, Trail, Sam's, Sardine, Evans', and other lesser creeks, which drain small valleys, and flowing southward empty in the main river. Louse creek, Grave or Leland creek, Jump-off-Joe and Wolf creeks rise in the northwestern part of the county, flow west into Josephine county and ultimately find their way into the Rogue. Into the south side of that river run the creeks known as T'Vault's or Kane's, and Foot's. These take their rise in the range separating the Applegate from Rogue river, and are but small streams, although somewhat important from the mining which has been carried on in their sands. Jackson creek flows a course nearly parallel with Bear creek, taking its rise in the hills south of Jacksonville, and from its association is an immensely important stream, though very insignificant in volume.
Each of these streams drains a valley whose extent is generally proportioned to their own magnitude. The largest of these valleys has long been known as Rogue river valley-a name which has become as a household word throughout the countries where English is spoken. As usually applied the term designates the whole basin of the Rogue river, a region of not less than 4,000 square miles in area. In Southern Oregon and particularly in Jackson county, the expression is confined to the single valley extending from Table. Rock to and above Ashland, and is a misnomer, inasmuch as the Rogue river passes through or by only the lower end of the tract. Bear creek valley, as bearing the name of the stream which passes through the middle of its whole length, is the more appropriate designation in every respect. The length of the valley proper is about forty miles, its maximum breadth-being the distance between the summits of the enclosing ranges-is about fifteen miles, and its average width is about eight miles. Thus it is equal in area to 300 square miles, a large part of which is level and of the very finest quality of soil. The tillable land of Bear creek valley is probably near one-half of all in the county. Here also live the larger portion of the population, who are also the most prosperous and wealthy of the county. Bear creek valley thus becomes the center of business and enterprise, and contains as a natural consequence nearly all the institutions of religious worship and instruction.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
AGRICULTURAL AND CLIMATIC RESOURCES.
Character of the Soil-The Conditions of Fertility Adaptation to Wheat A Rich Agricultural Region-Stock- raising-Vegetables-Fruit-growing-Enthusiastic Prophecies-Grapes and Wine-An Extract-Magnificent and Unequalled Climate-Rainfall Temperature Freedom from Disease Retrospection.
The material resources of Jackson county, which constitute a subject of great importance and interest, naturally fall into agricultural, mineral and climatic divisions. Concerning the former some general facts will serve to enlighten the reader, who, for particular instances should consult another portion of this account.
The general character of the soil of Jackson county is a dark alluvium derived from the slow and gradual disintegration of the sandstone and other rocks, their removal to lower levels, and admixture with vegetable mold, the product of successive growth and decay of grasses, shrubs and trees. Upon high elevations, particularly the slopes of hills and mountains, the soil while partaking of the same general character, contains larger particles of rock, so much so as to produce a gravelly or pebbly soil. Some extensive level tracts are composed of heavy alluvial deposits of fine loam resting upon a sub-soil of clay. Usually the "bed-rock" is close beneath the soil and is mainly the sandstone country rock, or more often the barren detritus left by freshets. The foothills and mountain slopes are frequently covered with a warm, rich, red loam, verging into a grayish soil of less fertility. The loam, vegetable mold, alluvial deposits and decomposed, or rather disintegrated sandstone each possess many of the elements of fertility and their mixture forms, as is well known, the richest soils known to agriculturists. From a chemical point of view nothing could be better adapted to the growth and nourishment of crops than such soils. The various compounds which go to make up the mineral portion of plants, that is the ash, are present in ample quan- tity. The potassium salts, the soluble silica, the phosphates and other indispensible constituents are at hand to be dissolved in nature's alembic, carried by the sap of the growing plant through the minute canals which pervade it and be incorporated with and form a part of its system. Given such a soil, with a sub-soil sufficiently pervious to water, and an unfailing supply of moisture just beneath it, and all the conditions of successful agriculture are at hand. A large part of the soils of Bear creek and other sections are of this sort; but in many localities considerable tracts of shallow soil rest upon an impervious foundation of sandstone, or upon coarse gravel which in turn reposes upon the sandstone country rock, and in such cases failures of crops are not infrequent.
Under the most favorable conditions the fertility of the soil seems absolutely inexhaustible. Since farming began in the Rogue river valley, a matter of thirty odd years ago, certain lands have yielded erops for each successive year, and still remain
316
SOUTHERN OREGON
unimpaired in productive power. This applies to the rich tracts of Bear creek valley, but is also true in a less degree of other localities, and to some extent of the hill lands, whose value is being yearly demonstrated. The rich loam, or porous, gravelly soils of the rolling hills have produced crops of uncommon abundance in seasons when the level lands of the valleys have only borne a partial crop. For the culture of grain crops of every kind the soil of the region has proved its adaptability by the experience of a third of a century. Wheat has always been a favorite crop. Barley, rye and oats reward well the thrifty farmer. Twenty-five bushels per acre of either of these grains would in past years have been esteemed a small yield, taking the country at large. Com- pared with the area devoted to other crops wheat culture has always been foremost in importance of all agricultural branches, so much so that we may say that a history of agriculture in the valley is simply a history of wheat raising. At a time when the acreage of tilled lands was small, and transportation so costly as to debar the importa- tion of breadstuffs from the Willamette valley and the outer world generally, and when several thousand miners in Jackson, Josephine and Siskiyou counties depended for their supply of flour almost exclusively upon the fields of Bear creek valley, wheat raising achieved a standing as a very lucrative occupation, and what is more, an easy one. Flour at ten cents per pound corresponds nearly to a price of four dollars per bushel for wheat, which was frequently raised in quantities of fifty or sixty bushels per acre-figures that point to the growth of fortunes in small periods of time. The exportation of produce in bulk was impracticable, for even good wagon roads were not yet had; hence the home market alone being a dependence. Such products as found a ready sale at remunerative rates were cultivated. These were wheat, vegetables and live stock. The former industry was the earliest developed, as it has since continued the foremost. The farmers of Rogue river valley within fifteen years of the discovery of gold had become the wealthiest of their class on the Pacific coast, and had placed agriculture on a more advanced footing than it had attained elsewhere in Oregon. The breeding and rearing of flocks and herds became also an industry of no small impor- tance. It needed no skilled prescience to determine that the country was pre-emi- nently adapted to grazing, as on the hills and mountain slopes flourished uncounted acres of the richest and most succulent grasses upon which in summer, horses, cattle and sheep waxed obese and contented. And in time of frost, and snow, and rain, the animals were able to sustain life at least by the heat-giving powers of their accumulated fat, with some aid from dried grass, ferns and mosses. Consequently arose the nomadic class of stock-growers or cattle-raisers, so-called, who, however, do not raise cattle or even maintain herds, but are maintained by them, their principal and seemingly only necessary occupation being to count their property. Stock-raising has many votaries, but as conducted in many new countries bears no relation to the industrious and careful methods of real agriculture.
An enthusiastic visitor to this valley said : "This fertile land will produce in abundance anything that will grow in the temperate zone." Corn thrives better than elsewhere in Oregon; vegetables of every variety grow in profusion, among them sweet potatoes, usually reckoned a semi-tropical production. Cabbages, usually a com- mon-place product, inspire positive enthusiasm when seen in Southern Oregonian luxuriance. The onion, of mildest flavor and completely devoid of its usual tear-com-
WALLING- LITH .PORTLAND-OR.
FARM RESIDENCE OF FRANCIS. M. PLYMALE, 3 MILES NORTH OF MEDFORD, JACKSON CO.
317
JACKSON COUNTY.
pelling attributes, is produced at the rate sometimes of 700 bushels per acre. The pea, the bean (Boston's beloved aliment), the cauliflower, the radish, the potato, yield mar- velously, and beyond belief of the farmers of the effete east whose highest hopes are centered upon the manure pile, and who are strangers to the facile ways of the agri- culturist of the Pacific slope. Small fruits and berries, wherever tried, have succeeded beyond expectation ; but it is from the culture of orchard and vineyard products that the people of this region expect the most. Since the decrease of mining and the con- sequent partial destruction of the home market, and more especially since the coming of the railroad, it has seemed that the heretofore isolated country will have to adapt itself to the changed circumstances in which it finds itself. To contemplate the con- tinued raising of wheat in direct competition with the boundless plains of California and the Willamette valley, is to foresee a loss of time and opportunities. The lands of the Rogue river basin are too contracted in area to admit of it; and besides they are more valuable for other purposes. Fruit raising, especially of the apple, pear and stone fruits, will prove at once a more laborious pursuit and a better paying one. For twenty years men have been prophesying an era when the fruits of this valley will be regarded universally as the best in the world and sought for at the highest prices. Perhaps this is so; probably there is not in the world a locality where certain fruits attain such excellence in flavor, size and keeping qualities. Men of the widest experi- ence concede to the apples grown here the highest merits in all desirable qualities- The grape they have also pronounced unequaled. Enthusiastic wine-drinkers and virtuosos, have foreseen a time when all the hill sides would be covered with vineyards, and when an overflowing population, appeased of their own beverage, should be enjoy- ing life in the shade of the vines. Soberly speaking, they have predicted that the laurels of France, Germany, and every foreign wine-producing country, as well as California, would be wrested from them and worn by the lovely vale of the Rogue river, which will then be the most abundant producer of the best of wines. A many- sided subject this, and not to be settled by the assertions of individuals, but by experi- ence alone. Thus far experiments have been successfully conducted in the planting and care of vines and the making of wine. Some sixty or seventy acres of vines have been set out, mainly near Jacksonville, where are located the two largest vineyards, those of R. Morat and J. N. T. Miller, each of whom devote several acres to that cul- ture. Their wine production, amounting to several thousand gallons annually, is consumed in the home market, as the cost of transportation has heretofore precluded its export to the outer world, whereby it would have met a decisive test by comparison with the wines of other localities. The vineyardist of the present produces a very fair article of wine, but its manufacturers labor under the disadvantages of a want of skill and too minute quantities, to be very strikingly successful. There is certainly no lack of space for the planting of vineyards, as the hill lands have long been conceded to be best adapted for grapes, and in this respect California has many advantages also. The varieties of grapes thus far experimented upon in Jackson county are very small, and only one, the Mission, is much known. Doubtless this species is the best adapted to the locality and attendant circumstances, being very hardy and requiring little care and attention. Its wine, however, is distinctly inferior to that of nearly every other variety. The introduction of superior varieties and the systematic and intelligent
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.