USA > Oregon > Douglas County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 65
USA > Oregon > Jackson County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 65
USA > Oregon > Josephine County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 65
USA > Oregon > Coos County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 65
USA > Oregon > Curry County > History of southern Oregon, comprising Jackson, Josephine, Douglas, Curry and Coos counties, comp. from the most authentic sources > Part 65
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CURRY COUNTY.
CHAPTER LVII.
DESCRIPTION AND RESOURCES.
Position of the County-Extent-Streams-Forests-Harbors-Roads-Natural Resources-Beach Mining Other Placers-Quartz- The Common Metals and Minerals Lumbering Condition of Agriculture-Fisheries.
Curry county lies in the extreme southwest corner of Oregon. It is bounded on the north by Coos county, on the east by Josephine, on the south by the state of Cali- fornia, and on the west by the Pacific ocean. Its greatest length from northi to south is about sixty-five miles ; its average breadth about twenty-eight ; and its area about 1,500 square miles, or 960,000 acres. Curry is essentially a mountainous country, con- taining scarcely any level land in comparison with its whole area. It is a region of streams, large and small, and of trees, shrubbery and grass, and is variegated and diversified in the most extraordinary degree. The mountain ranges are not very lofty, but are much broken up, with their axes lying in every direction. The streams all find their way westward to the Pacific, through canyons and narrow valleys. The principal rivers and creeks, beginning on the north, are-New river, Floras creek, Sixes river, Elk creek, Euchre creek, Rogue river, Hunter's creek, Pistol river, Cheteo river and Windchuck river-the last being at the California line. All these flow nearly a west course and enter the ocean. In the interior, Illinois river flows into Rogue river about twelve miles east of the coast line ; Silver creek, a small tributary of the Illinois, enters from the south ; and John Mule creek, an affluent of Rogue river, enters that stream from the north side, near the Big Bend. All these streams are swift and turbulent, and with one or two exceptions have no long smooth reaches fit for even boat navigation. They are only mountain torrents, and like other streams of the sort are generally well stocked with fish, brook or mountain trout existing in the more rapid portions, while salmon and salmon trout swarm in certain seasons. The valleys of all these streams are very narrow, but each contains a small portion of very rich land which well repays cultivation. The rolling hills and the so-called "prairies"- which are simply small tracts devoid of trees-furnish the most excellent and abundant grasses. Generally speaking, the surface of Curry county is a vast forest of various soft and hard woods, over-spreading mountain, hill and valley, and clothing the land with a beautiful and variegated carpet of the richest colors. The growth of large ever- green trees is wonderful in its luxuriance, showing the great capacity of the soil for supporting plant growth.
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SOUTHERN OREGON.
The coast of Curry county is comparatively regular and unbroken, and is conse- quently lacking in harbors and sheltered locations where shipping might take refuge from storms. The commerce of the region is subserved by some few landings, called summer harbors, and by the comparatively good and safe havens of Port Orford and the mouth of Rogue river. The former of these is the most promising and important in a commercial point of view, inasmuch as it furnishes an accessible anchorage, easily gained in time of storms, and sheltered from all but the southwesterly gales of winter. The bar at the mouth of Rogue river prevents its embouchure from being more than a tolerable fair weather port at present, but with the expenditure of capital it is thought it might be bettered very materially. Chetco has a summer harbor, but the isolation and small extent of the surrounding productive region, added to its nearness to Crescent City prevent it from attaining present importance. Several other less known landings exist, which may come in use for shipping lumber and dairy products.
The mountains of the interior approach the coast at all points and frequently form rocky and abrupt headlands hundreds of feet high. As a consequence communi- eation by land is very difficult. From the northern verge of the country to a consid- erable distance south a smooth sea beach forms a sufficiently good road for horses and vehicles, but from Port Orford south to Chetco the highway, except for short spaces, is merely a trail. To the east there are no roads whatever, nor can there be without the expenditure of much money. The interior of Curry county is practically uninhab- ited, a few localities only excepted, where lumbermen or stock-growers have habita- tions. They have no roads, only trails. In 1878 a road was surveyed to Josephine county, but never built, although said to be plainly practicable. As early as 1852 a trail was laid out from Port Orford to intersect the Oregon and California trail at Grave creek, but the route was scarcely ever traveled.
The natural resources of Curry county are various and considerable. Of the mineral kingdom there are gold, silver, coal, building stone, copper, iron and chromium, whose existence is a factor of value. Gold has been mined on the coast of Curry county for thirty years. The beach mines are a remarkable phenomenon, as the gold, in a very finely divided condition, is mingled with the black sand which has been washed up from the deep and deposited along the shores. The manner of extracting the gold from the sand, while it is a species of placer mining, is somewhat different in detail from the ordinary gravel mining on streams, inasmuch as the gold is finer, and therefore more liable to be carried away by the stream used for separating it from the sand. Besides, the gold is often coated with a substance thought by the miners to be iron rust. This coating interferes seriously with the operation of saving the gold, for it prevents itsamalgamation with quicksilver, which it is necessary to use, because of thefine- ness of the particles. In former times the gold was saved by washing upon blankets and rough sluices, with " drops " containing perhaps a whole flask of mercury ; but after- wards amalgamated copper plates were introduced, as in quartz mills, which are more efficacious. The miners are considerably troubled by the tides and waves, which oblit- erate their workings and cover up the auriferous beds with layers of barren sand. Very productive mines have at times been discovered in the old beaches which are found many feet above the present water level, and these discoveries-called bluff dig- gings-can be worked with comparative ease and immunity from the ravages of ocean.
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CURRY COUNTY.
The principal beach mines thus far worked have been found on the shore north and south of the mouth of Rogue river, and extending about twenty-five miles along the coast. This portion of the shore is called Gold Beach, a name that was given on the discovery of the ocean placers in early years. They are still worked occasionally with good results, and are regarded as equally reliable with ordinary placer mines. It is thought that this speciea of mining, now producing comparatively little, could by sys- tematic endeavor be made to pay well. The Cooley claims on Ophir beach are of this sort and are proving signally successful. The placer mining of Curry county is not entirely confined to the beach and bluff diggings alone, but good prospects have been found on many mountain streams, and well paying placers have been worked in many locations. On Rogue river and its tributaries, mining upon the bars has long been a favorite pursuit, and certain flats upon the main stream are regarded as very valuable for the metal contained therein. The Big Bend flat, in particular, is sanguinely con- sidered to be rich in gold. Sixes river is a stream of some note in mining affairs and its sands have been worked with fair results for some years and the claims are not yet abandoned.
In quartz very little has been done in Curry county. Several veins of gold-bear- ing rock have been prospected, particularly about the headwaters of Sixes river, with encouraging results, but no mines of great consequence have been opened, nor have mills been built. A large area yet remains to be thoroughly prospected, and it is highly possible that good veins may be found.
Several other minerals of value are found, The following brief estimate of their importance having been made by Mr. F. A. Stewart, of Port Orford : "Copper has been found in well defined leads just below the mouth of the Illinois, also along it, and on some of its tributaries, as well as in the 'Lake of the Woods' mountains just back of Ellensburg. Iron and chrome exist in fabulous quantities in many places, but generally too hard of access to attract capital for many years to come. On the Illinois exists a bed of chrome, which was pronounced in Swansea, England, to be the finest in the world ; but the cost of getting it to tide water precludes the idea of its shipment. Coal has been found in apparently large quantities, two miles above the mouth of the Illinois ; also above the Big Bend, and in various other localities. Quite large pieces have been picked up on the coast, four miles below Ellensburg, and, although of superior quality, it has never been prospected for. Freestone of the finest color and quality, constitutes the rocky headlands that make the summer harbor of Hunter's heads, and Mack's Arch. Yet these magnificent quarries, although so handy that their hugest stones could be swung by cranes upon the decks of vessels, secure in good harbors, are still untouched by the vandal, but magie hand of trade. Marble also has been found in many places, but generally in remote and retired situations, so little liable to be disturbed that it would make a very appropriate emblem of peace- especially for its whiteness and purity."
In the production of choice Inmber Curry county holds a very eminent place. The county generally is well wooded, with a heavy and dense growth of various timber trees, chiefly soft woods. The Port Orford cedar is the most valuable and important of these, and furnishes a large quantity of the finest lumber for finishing purposes, which finds a ready sale in San Francisco, at high rates. Two saw mills, the Elk
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SOUTHERN OREGON.
creek and Hubbard creek mills, have dealt exclusively, almost, with this sort of lumber and have manufactured an enormous amount in the years of their activity. Secondary to this variety, are two species of fir, both valuable and abundant, and a considerable quantity of live-oak and other trees more or less valuable. Of the varieties of fir and cedar very large quantities exist, extending eastward to and beyond the borders of the county. Each and every stream is shaded by groves of these monster evergreens, which exist in countless numbers. The most activity is shown in manufacturing cedar lumber, but considerable attention has of late been given to the pine forests upon Rogue river. some distance up stream. The experiment of floating sugar pine logs from the extensive pineries of Josephine county was tried, but unsuccessfully. The design was to bring them to the steam mill at Ellensburg. Besides pine Rogue river is lined, particularly the lower portion of its course, with fir timber of immense size.
The principal agricultural resource of the present day is grazing. The farming land of the county being confined to the narrow valleys at the lower part of the rivers and creeks, and to a small proportion of table land lying somewhat higher up, it fol- lows that the culture of farm products can never attain importance in comparison with other and more extensive sections. There is, however, ample opportunity for raising sufficient of the ordinary farm and garden products to satisfy the local demand, except- ing in isolated localities, which may continue to require importations of necessaries from outside places. The small amount of tillable soil in Curry county is of most excellent quality, producing immense crops of vegetables, and yielding fair amounts of wheat and other grains. Dairying and stock growing, particularly the latter, are the principal present and prospective supports of the small agricultural community, and are the pursuits of prime importance. A very large amount of grass of the best quality grows in the " prairies" (open spaces on the hills), and furnishes pasturage for a large number of cattle and sheep. In the matter of dairying, Curry county has the advantage that grass remains green for nearly the whole year, kept so by the ocean breezes, laden with moisture from the warm Japanese current. Hence, the best of butter can be produced, even from the natural grasses, while domesticated grasses also flourish excellently. Probably Curry county is able to produce as good a quality of butter as the far-famed dairies of Point Reyes, in California, which owe their pre-emi- uence to the same fact of the moist ocean climate of their locality. Probably equal facilities do not exist on the Pacific coast outside of Curry and Coos county, for making first-class butter and cheese. At present these facilities are by no means fully recognized and appropriated, for although several private dairies exist, they are only sufficient in number to demonstrate the value of this pursuit. The lack of speedy and regular transportation to San Francisco, the only reliable market, is, however, a very serious drawback and difficult to be remedied.
The fisheries of Curry county are an important source of wealth. The salmon tribe frequent all the rivers and creeks in immense numbers, and a cannery has been established, of which we will speak further. In addition, there are several fisheries, so-called, where salmon are caught, and salted for export in barrels. On nearly all the streams similar establishments might prove profitable, owing to the abundance of the fish, and to their good quality.
WALLING-LITH-PORTLAND OR.
RESIDENCE AND FARM OF A. H. WOODRUFF, COLES VALLEY, DOUGLAS CO,
CHAPTER LVIII.
EARLY HISTORY OF THE COUNTY.
First Exploration of the Coast-Vancouver's Voyage-The Natives-Cape Blanco, or Orford New Cities Founded Along the Coast-Captain Tichenor's Design-A Colony Formed-Siege of Battle Rock-Escape of the Nine-A Larger Force Left at Port Orford-T'Vault's Explorations Sad Fate of Five Men-Hero- ism of Cyrus Hedden-Missionaries and Troops Arrive at Port Orford -- Colonel Casey's Expedition -Dis- covery of the Beach Placers-Organization of the County.
It has often been said and written that certain Spanish explorers of the last cen- tury visited and examined the coast of Curry county, and sailing northward, entered the mouth of the Umpqua river and refitted there. But this report cannot be traced to any source other than that Don Martin D'Aguilar, sailing along this coast in 1795, or thereabouts. discovered and named Cape Blanco, since known by that name and the name also of Cape Orford. The latter name was applied by a very celebrated English navigator, who visited these shores in 1792. His name was Captain George Van- couver, to whom the world is indebted for the first systematic and scientific examination of the northwest coast of America. Here follows the story of his voyage along the coast of Curry county, told in his own words :
"On Tuesday, April 24, 1792, the northern point of St. George's bay [in Del Norte county, California], bore east two leagues distant. With a favorable breeze at southwest, our survey was continued northward along the shores, which are composed of high, steep precipices and deep chasms, falling very abruptly into the sea. The inland mountains are much elevated, and appeared to be tolerably well clothed with a variety of trees, the generality of which were of the pine tribe; yet amongst them were some spreading trees of considerable magnitude. The shores were still bounded by innumerable rocky islets, and in the course of the forenoon we passed a chister of them, with several sunken rocks in their vicinity, lying a leagne from the land, which falls back a little to the eastward and forms a shallow bay, into which we steered. As the breeze died away, and a strong current set us fast ashore, we came to anchor in thirty- nine fathoms water, bottom black sand and mud. The latitude of this station was found to be 42 degrees 38 minutes ; longitude, east, 235 degrees, 14 minutes [124 degrees 16 minutes]. In this situation the outer rock of the cluster mentioned bore by compass south, sixteen cast, six miles distant ; a remarkable black rock, the nearest shore, was north, 64 east, distant three and a half miles ; a very high, black cliff, resembling the gable end of a house, north, one point east; the northernmost extremity of the mainland, which is formed by low land projecting from the high, rocky coast a considerable way into the sea, and terminating in a low, wedge-like, perpendicular eliff, north, 27 west. This I distinguished by the name of Cape Orford, in honor of my much-respected friend, the noble earl (George) of that title. Off it lie several rocky islets, the outwardmost of which bore north, 38 west.
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SOUTHERN OREGON.
" Soon after we had anchored, a canoe was seen pulling toward the ship ; and with the greatest confidence, and without any sort of invitation, came immediately alongside. During the afternoon two others visited the Discovery, and some repaired to the Chat- ham [a tender], from different parts of the coast in sight ; by which it appears the inhabitants may have their residence in the small nooks that are protected from the westerly swell by the rocky islets. A pleasing and courteous deportment distinguished these people. Their countenances indicated nothing ferocious ; their features partook rather of the general European character ; their color a light olive ; and besides being protected in the fashion of the South Sea islanders, their skin had many other marks, apparently from injuries received in their excursions through the forests, possibly with little or no clothing that would protect them ; though some of us were of opinion that these marks were purely ornamental. Their stature was under the middle size; none that we saw exceeded five feet six inches in height. They were tolerably well limbed, though slender in their persons, and seemed to prefer the comforts of cleanliness to the painting of their bodies ; in their ears and noses they had small ornaments of bone; their hair, which was long and black, was tied in a club behind. They were dressed in garments made principally of the skins of otter, bear, deer and fox. Their canoes were wrought out of a single tree, were of the shape of a butcher's tray, and seemed unfit for use in sea-voyages. They were scrupulously honest, and did not entertain the least idea of receiving presents. We remained in this situation until near midnight, when a light breeze springing up, we weighed ; and at daylight we directed our course round the group of rocks lying off Cape Orford, comprehending four detached rocky islets, with several dangerous sunken rocks near them, on which the sea broke with violence. We passed close to the breakers, in soundings of forty-five fathoms, black, sandy bottom. Cape Orford, which is situated in latitude 42 degrees 52 minutes, lon- gitude 235 degrees 35 minutes, at the extremity of a low projecting tract of land, forms a very conspicuous point, and bears the same appearance whether it is approached from north or south. It is covered with wood as low down as the surf will permit it to grow. Some of us were of opinion that this was the Cape Blanco, of Martin D'Aguilar ; its latitude, however, differed greatly from that in which Cape Blanco is placed by that navigator ; and its dark appearance did not seem to entitle it to the name Blanco. North of this cape the coast takes the direction north, 13 east ; and south of it towards Point St. George, south, 18 east.
"The rocky islets which we had seen in such numbers along the shore, ceased to exist about a league to the northward of Cape Orford; and in their stead, an almost straight, sandy beach presented itself, with land behind gradually rising to a moderate height near the coast, but considerably elevated in the interior, and much diversified by its eminences and productions, being generally well wooded, though frequently inter- rupted with intervals of clear spots, which gave it some resemblance to a country in an advanced state of cultivation."
In the year 1851, a great impetus was given to business on the northwest coast by the discovery of the mines of Northern California and Southern Oregon. A great emigration set in toward those famous placers, and traffic of all sorts assumed an extray- agant liveliness. Access to the mines was so difficult that from the first the invention and enterprise of many persons were stimulated to overcome the costly, difficult and slow
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land transit. Only by means of narrow mountain trails from the Willamette on the one hand, and the Sacramento on the other, could the valleys of Rogue and Klamath rivers be reached. The universal mode of locomotion was on horse or mule back, or in default of animals, by foot, and all merchandize was packed on animals over the steep and dangerous trails for hundreds of miles, and at fabulous cost. Enterprising speculators, realizing that there was more money in providing for the miners than in being miners, set about exploring the northern sea-coast for suitable harbors near to the diggings, from whence merchandise could be sent by much shorter routes to the camps, and trade being diverted to the new sea-ports would serve to build them up and so put money in the purses of the far-seeing individuals who owned the town. Crescent City, Trinidad, Scottsburg, Gardiner, Umpqua City, and sundry other sea-ports of greater or less prominence sprang up, were surveyed and communication was established with the interior. Their fates have been various ; some have passed from existence entirely, and in no case have they arisen to the importance once prognosticated by their enthusiastic founders.
Port Orford had its birth under similar circumstances, in 1851. The founder was Captain William Tichenor, still a resident of the place, who has partaken of its fortunes for thirty-three years, and still has the strongest belief in its future importance. Cap- tain Tichenor was one of the earliest to navigate the waters of this coast in a steamship. Coming very early to California, as a sea-captain he held important positions in com- mand of vessels, and ultimately in 1851, made cruises from San Francisco to the Columbia in the steamer Sea (Full, and became acquainted with the coast between those ports, and its various harbors, which, as every one knows, are poor, and few in number. Becoming early impressed with the belief that Port Orford was the best haven of all of them, and thinking that it offered great advantages also in being nearer the mines to which he doubted not an easy and practicable route might be found, Captain Tichenor began to interest other people in his plan, and soon formed a colony consisting of nine men, whom he enlisted at Portland, Oregon, and set ashore from the Sea Gull when that vessel reached Port Orford on her down trip to San Francisco. The men, with fire-arms, ammunition, a small five-pound cannon, provisions, tools and other necessary things were landed on the ninth of June, 1851, and the steamer proceeded on her way. The men's names were-W. H. Kirkpatrick, J. H. Egan, Joseph Hussey, Cyrus Hed- den, McCune, Rideout, R. E. Summers, called Jake ; P. D. Palmer and Slater.
According to the narrative of Kirkpatrick, their leader, this is what hefell the lit- tle band :
On landing they found the Indian dwellers along the coast apparently friendly. They seemed to wish to trade. But when the steamer departed, difficulties appeared. The Indians became saucy, and finally, taking offense at something, withdrew in a pet. The whites, now thoroughly alarmed, took a position on Battle Rock, an isolated rock perhaps 100 yards from the main land, and only accessible therefrom at low tide, being surrounded with water at other times. Here they brought their five-pounder and pre- pared to make resistance if the enemy approached in a hostile manner. They had not long to wait. The next morning the Indians returned, some forty in all, armed with bows and arrows. They built fires and performed what was supposed to have been a war dance. More Indians came, swelling the number to sixty ; and these, united, came
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upon the island, disregarding the colonists' threatening to shoot. The latter withdrew to the highest part of the island, and were followed by the larger part of the savages, headed by a chief, who seized a musket from the hands of a white man, but was clubbed and driven away. The Indians began discharging arrows at the whites, and Kirk- patrick, seizing a fire-brand, fired the little cannon with considerable effect. "This threw them into confusion, which we followed up by a volley from our small arms, Three of them got into camp and were knocked down by gun butts. After fifteen minutes' fighting the Indians broke and fled, leaving thirteen of their number dead upon the island. They fled to the hills and rocks and shot arrows at us for some time. I afterward learned from an Indian at the mouth of the Umpqua that there were twenty killed and fifteen wounded. Four of our men were wounded. The Indians attacked us again in the afternoon, but without effect. Soon after a chief came upon the beach, and throwing down his arms, made signs that he wanted to come into camp We let him do so, when by signs he sought permission to take away the dead. This we let him do, and told him by signs that we would go away in fourteen days. When they had taken their dead they fired a few arrows at us and retired. We were troubled no more by them until the fifteenth day, when they attacked us again. There were many more in this fight than the other, at least fifteen to one of us. Their chief came up and urged them in tones that could be heard. at least half a mile, but could not prevail on them to make a rush at us. They shot their arrows at us from a distance of 300 yards at least, but no one was hurt, though several arrows fell in camp. We were in a critical condition. Our ammunition was about done-only eight or nine rounds being left-and we were surrounded by at least 150 Indians. The only alter- native left us was to take to the woods and make our way to the white settlements. Here fortune favored us ; the Indians withdrew, went down to the mouth of a small creek and kindled fires. Some stayed to watch us, but we went to work as if to strengthen our breastwork, and they, too, departed. Having now an opportunity, we escaped to the woods, taking only our small arms, and leaving the rest of our property in camp. We traveled through the woods for about five miles, and then went upon the beach. We had gone thereupon but a short distance when we met a party of thirty, all armed with bows and arrows and knives. We rushed toward them to give them fight in open ground, but they broke for the timber. Continuing a few miles further, we crossed a large stream of water. Here we took to the woods, traveling therein two days and nights, and then went out upon the coast. When we reached it we found a trail where a great many Indians had traveled up the coast. This we followed for about five miles to the mouth of a small creek ; here the trail turned back again. We trav- eled on the beach for about fifteen miles when we reached the mouth of Rogue river [Coquille probably]. Here we found two large villages of Indians who appeared to number 200, and prepared to fight. They kindled a fire on the top of the highest bluff near by. We had only the river between us, and had to take to the woods again. We travelled up the river about eight miles and crossed on a raft of logs. We kept two days in the woods and then came on the beach and spent four days, living on sal- mon berries. On the fourth day we procured some mussels, which revived us. We lived on them until we reached the Cowans (Coos) river ; here we got among friendly Indians and procured something to eat. But we had to give them the shirts off our
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