USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 2
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July 10. Sunday, Crossed over the Platte & camped traviled 11 miles 11. Started at 8, left the Platte & Black Hills traviled 12 miles over hilly roads & camped in sight of the Red Butes good water and grass but no wood. Cool wind.
12. Started in good season saw an abundance of Buffalo crossed some verry Rocky Hills said to be the commencement of the Moun- tains. Stopped for dinner 2 hours. Camped in a little valley sur- rounded with bushes grass good & first rate water and wood, trav- iled 16 miles.
13. Verry cold, water in a pail froze ice like thick window glass. Started early raized a long hill detained by wagons breaking down 1 hour.
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July 13. Stopped for late dinner on verry warm road level and sandy not a particle of grass, passed bedds of white substance par- taking of the nature of salt and magnetia &c. Camped at sunset on Sweet Water, traviled 20 m. Baily shot while walking through camp by accidental discharge of a gun from a waggon, he lived about one hour.
14. Buried Baily near Independence Rock & mile from camp. My feelings on this occasion can hardly be described. A young man in the vigor of youth and health taken from our company wraped in a Buffalo Robe & and buried in this dismal Prairie. What sad tidings for his Parents & friends who like my own are far from here. Went out hunting Buffalo.
July 15. Layed about 15 miles from camp last night in com- pany with three others. Killed a Bulland as we had eaten noth- ing since we left camp we soon built a fire and roasted some meat, killed a cow about 11 o'clock, got into camp towards night found all the rest of the company had more meat than us. Today Capt. Hastings month being up himself and Lieu Lovejoy were re-elect- ed. 16 Concluded to move camp nearer to the Buffalo. Started at 8o'clock followed up the Sweet Water at the foot of a tremen- dous mountain composed of solid rock. Sweet water passes through a gap in this mountain, great curiosity.
July 16. Camped on Sweet water at 3 o'clock. Went with 2 others about 1 mile from camp and ascended the mountain after having viewed the rock we decended about half way when we dis- covered a party of 200 Indians approaching camp.
Made all possible haste to camp. Indians met us but let us pass. Found they had taken our Capt. & Lieu. prisoners at the Independence Rock where they had been taking observations and brought them to can:p. Showed no hostility. Presented them with tobaco. Camped near ns, traviled 12 miles. 17. Sunday After calling on us & receiving some ammunition they left & trav- iled up the River. We stay to make meat. Verry warm. Several men gone hunting. Verry difficult to get meat.
Mr. Bennitt's Daughter slightly wounded by an accidental dis- charge of a gun.
Monday July 18. We reluctantly remained here today. Sev- eral gone hunting slight shower of rain. Considerable of meat brought in today.
19. Started at 73 o'clock followed up the Sweet Water, tre- mendous Rocky Mountains on each side. Camped at 123 o'clock, good grass, water and wood, traviled 7 miles.
20. Stay here today to dry what meat we have and get more. Hunters driven into camp by the Indians who are scattered in small parties all around us. Indians take 2 horses from Binnit's son & Weston. They came to camp verry much frightened. Capt. & several others went out to see if they had any of our men several of whom were out yet. All came in safe. False alarm in the night.
Thursday, July 21. Stay here all this day. Brown lost a horse leg broke by a kick. Indians came back before noon a few came
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near camp & told many different stories. We observed they had more horses than when they went up. 280 were counted in their Party. They passed quietly by and said they were going home. Extremely warm.
22. Started at 7, traviled on at a good pace until 10 met a party of Shian Indians. Camped within two miles of their Village, about noon the Chiefs together with some hundreds of others came to camp. We made them presents of ammunition, tobaco &c. and smoked with them. Started after dinner passed their village which consisted of several hundred lodges.
Friday 22d July. Several Indians accompanied us to camp. Mr. Fitch Patrick judged they were in the village of Crows, Shians, & Sues between 4 & 5000. Many of our Company traded horses with them. Camped near sun set on Sweet Water, traviled 15 m.
23 Started at 73 o'clock, bad road. Crossed the Sweet Water a number of times, some verry narrow passes between the moun- tains. Camped on S. W. at noon, traviled 7 miles a small party of Indians came to camp, about 100 more Indians came to camp at 2 o'clock. They were a war party of Sues & Shians who had been to fight the Snakes. They returned as usual in several par- ties another small party came up near night. A few came to camp to smoke.
Sunday 24. Started early left the creek & traviled over a hill of sand without a particle of grass ground covered with wild sage. Saw mountains with snowy sides far to the N. W. struck Sweet Water about noon stoped for dinner 23 hours crossed the creek several times afternoon. Camped on the creek good wood and grass traviled 15 miles.
25 Started 63 o'clock rose a long hill came on the creek & camped at 11 for dinner drove two hours afternoon camped on the creek much the best grass we have seen since we left the Fort good spring water & pleanty of wood traviled 12 miles. Wild geese for several days have been frequently seen & fish are caught from Sweet Water creek.
Tuesday 26, July. The nights are astonishingly cold & the days are verry warm. Last night I lay under a thick Blanket & Buffalo Robe with my clothes on. Started early traviled over a long rocky hill camped at noon, got already to start after dinner and a waggon broke down stay here tonight, traviled 10 miles had a severe cold rain.
27. Started early stopped a short time for dinner. Camped near sun set on Sweet Water, traviled 16 miles.
28. Started 7 o'clock left Sweet Water crossed the dividing ridge. Camped at 10 o'clock on a little stream running westward, traviled 6 miles. Left the cart here, one waggon left. Snowy mountains constantly in sight.
Friday 29. Started 7 o'clock traviled over a sandy barren country destitute of game & every thing but wild sage, high mountains north of us apparently 20 or 30 miles covered with snow. Camped after noon on Little Sandy Creek which empties in Green River a verry pretty stream but much warmer than I ex- pected traviled 14 miles.
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30. Started early stopped on the creek for dinner 2 hours. Camped near sun set on Big Sandy Creek traviled 20 miles.
31. Sunday. Rainy morning Started 7. Commenced rain- ing verry cold & unpleasant. Considerable decending ground. Camped on the creek at 3 o'clock traviled 15 miles. Much talk about dividing the company at Green River.
August 1. Monday started at 7. Commenced raining soon rain- ed moderately crossed Green River and camped 11 o'clock traviled 6 miles. Some of the company preparing to pack from here rainy afternoon and evening. 2d. Cold wet morning some mak- ing pack saddles aud others repairing their waggons determ- ined to take them through.
3. Capt. Hastings with 8 waggons started at 8 o'clock, Meek Pilot. The best wagons were taken on 2 were left standing the rest destroyed to, repair others. In our camp there is 27 men, Mr. Fitchpatrick Captain and Pilot. Finished making packsaddles cashed goods and preparing to start tomorrow.
Thursday Aug. 4. All started with pack animals at 8 o'clock had verry little trouble on the way arrived at Ham's Fork of Green River at 13 o'clock. Camped good grass and wood traviled 20 miles in a different direction from that which the waggons took. We saw high mountains covered with snow to the south west.
5. Started at 7, saw some of Capt. H. company the waggons camped 2 miles behind us last night. Said they had to leave one waggon the first day. Stopped early for dinner cashed liquor. Started & crossed a considerable hill cold and rainy afternoon got verry wet, rain ceased and we camped 5 o'clock on the same creek traviled 18 miles.
Saturday Aug. 6. Started early traviled 6 hours before din - uer over a verry rough mountainous country in some places we were obliged to all follow one path. Camped near sunset on the same creek good grass little wood, Traviled 22 miles.
7. Started in good season followed up the creek some time crossed a hill to the north commenced raining crossed some verry bad water courses. Stopped for dinner at the side of a high moun- tain rain stopped started soon, rain and hail. Crossed two tre- mendous mountains and camped on Bear River near sunset trav- iled 25 miles. Saw a verry large Indian trail nearly fresh. The river runs nearly north here.
Monday Aug. 8. Started as usual followed down the River level road verry high mountain on each side of the River Bottom which is better soil than we have seen for some time. Stopped on the River a short time for dinner. Two accidents this after- noon by falling from horses not serious. A few trout caught from the river Today. Traviled 20 miles and camped on Tommaux Fork.
9. Started early across the Fork and crossed over a tremend- our mountain and stopped for dinner on the river, had level road this afternoon. Camped in good season on Tullock's Fork a Branch running from the Mountains into the River traviled 18
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miles.
Wednesday Aug. 10. Saw fresh sines of Indians started early. Indians soon came to us. They were Ponarchs and moving in the same direction with us many of them traviled with us until 3 o'clock when we struck the river and camped, traviled 16 miles. Several horses were procured from them on reasonable terms by our company. Their whole company soon came up and camped near us.
11. Some trading this morning started at 83 o'clock left the river before noon saw some of the finest springs of water which form a large creek. Saw the soda springs and Boiling springs the greatest Natural Curiosity I ever saw. Camped near soda springs good place traviled 15 miles. Some Indians canie to camp.
Friday Aug. 12. Went to sce the Boiling springs again this morning the hole through which the water spouts is about 1 foot in diameter the water which kept a continual Boiling rises fre- quently to the hight of 3 feet. It is said at times to rise much higher. It is Blood warm and has a sulphur and mineral taste there appears to be a species of Rock constantly forming around the hole which is already considerably elevated. There is a smaller hole near which appears to serve as a vent through which the air is constantly circulating. Started 7, a few Indians in camp 2 of our company started ahead for Fort Hall. Saw a singular spring partaking considerably of the quallities of soda.
Friday Aug. 12. Stopped for dinner about 2 o'clock. Started soon camped on Portnough traviled 23 miles.
13. Horses strayed off some distance from camp started in good season stopped early for dinner drove on again until near sunset and camped on Ross Fork in deep valley on a beautiful little stream traviled 25 miles. 14. Sunday. Started in good season and traviled verry fast in order to get to the Fort early as possible. Stopped for dinner on Ross Fork. Some Fort men came to camp started and crossed several spring Brooks camped on. Snake or Lewis River near Fort Hall traviled 25 miles. 15. visited the Fort found it much smaller than Laramie but verry well conducted. Commenced writing a letter.
Tuesday 16. Finished my letter to my Parents. Visited the Fort. 17. Concluded not to start today. Wrote to W. C. Enos of St. Louis. Capt. H. with seven waggons came in. 18. Starting is again deferred untill tomorrow. 19. Started about 9 o'clock kept down the River. Crossed several marshy places, verry warm day and much trouble with packs. Camped on the River, traviled 15 miles. 20. Started in good season saw the American falls. It is not a perpendicular fall but more like rapids interspersed with large rocks. Met a large number of Indians. Doct. went back and traded fish and horse from them stopped for dinner in a verry bad place. Doct. came up started camped on river traviled 12 miles.
Aug. 21. Sunday. Concluded to wait for the Company as some are not satisfied to go without a Pilot. Company passed about 1 o'clock. We packed up and started found them Camped about
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three miles on the River. Mr. McDonald came up soon. 22d Started without breakfast and traviled verry fast until 8 o'clock stopped on a creek three hours. Started and drove on a trot nearly all day, verry rocky hard for horses feet. The same Barren Country covered with sage continues. Camped on a Little Brook at 5 o'clock traviled 30 m good water and grass, little wood suf- fered very much with dust.
Tuesday 23d Aug. Started early drove fast. Came close to the river camped at 10 on Goose Creek. H. B. Company arrived 13 hours before us our cattle verry much fatigued concluded not to try to keep up with the H. B. Company with our cattle. Compa- ny started two hours before us we drove moderately camped early traviled 20 miles. Doct. White left us for the H. B. Company whom he intends to go with to Fort Vancouver. Only 8 men left in our Company without a Pilot. 24. Started in good season and trav- iled moderately, fine cool day camped about noon. Giger and others passed with many animals. Started at 23 o'clock. Camped on a verry pretty Brook traviled 18 miles. Tuesday Aug. 25. Started at 73 crossed two deep ravines, verry rocky, passed an old camping grd. at 103 o'clock concluded not to stop drove on at a good pace decended into a tremendous valley with banks of perpendicular rock at least 200 feet high on the north side a large portion of water issues out of the rock nearly half way up. Camp- ed at 33 o'clock on a large stream formed mostly by springs of the above description, traviled 21 miles.
26. Started at 7, kept down the Creek which is verry rapid left the Creek and decended a steep hill. Crossed a beautiful stream. Camped at 11. Started at 2 passed some Indian Lodges traded fish both fresh and dry left the river rose a tremendous hill travellid on till dark no appearance of water verry dark until 9, when the moon arose decended a tremendous hill found the river we left and camped at 10 o'clock night in a miserable sandy and rocky place traviled 30 M.
27. Saturday. Started at 8 kept down the river on the side of a steep bank where we were obliged to all follow one narrow path cross some steep ravines camped at 123 on an island in Snake river good grass concluded to stay here today and let our animals recruit, traviled 10 M.
28. Started early kept down the river along a steep side-hill saw many Indians who live along the river and subsist principally on fish traded fresh fish from them. Sunday 28, Aug. Camped 113 for dinner several Indians in camp. Left the river for a short time after dinner saw large sandbanks drifted like snow. Camped on a slew of the river verry high grass, trav. 18 M. horses got frightened and ran some distance from camp, probably wolves.
29. Started at 7, cold morning followed down the river awhile left the river verry barren country less sage than formerly. Crossed a large branch followed it through a tremenous gap in the mountain for at least two miles the rock standing up on each side probably 200 ft. Camped for dinner at the River many Lodges near several came into camp. 29. Followed down the river after
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dinner crossed on to an Island & camped near sunset, trav. 20 M.
30. Started at 7 kept down the River a short time took din- ner on a small Branch verry poor grass. Find the country grow- ing more barren not even producing sage. Camped near sunset on a beautiful little Branch in a valley surrounded on three sides by high hills traviled 18 miles.
31. Followed down the Branch to the river about 13 miles in search of the horses, found the River as well as the Branch flow- ing among high cliffs of rock with scarcely room for a path on its Banks. 31st Aug. Started at 73 rose a long hill astonishingly barren country decended to the river stopped for dinner tolerable good grass, found Indians pleanty towards evening. Camped near their village poor grass trav. 18. M.
Thursday Sept. 1st, 1842. Many Indians come to camp traded pleanty of fish started 8, crossed 2 small streams which are said to be hot water. It was discovered by some of our party attempt- ing to drink they said the water burned their hands took dinner on the on the river verry warm day poor grass. Camped on the river poor grass traviled 15 miles.
Friday Sept. 2d. Started at 83 no alteration in the general appearance of the country took dinner on the river verry poor grass Camped in the evening on Warior River a Branch of the Snake traviled 14 miles.
3d. Started 73 crossed W. R. arrived at Fort Boyzea at 9. Crossed over Snake River in a Canoe to the Fort which stands on the north side of the river procured some provisions. Crossed back traviled down the river a short distance & camped for din- ner. Fort B. is a new Establishment. It has been a short time in operation but is not yet completed. We saw but one white man who was French. The company left the Fort on Thursday.
Sept. 3d. At the Fort we tasted musk mellon but of a very indifferent quallity. They raise corn & a few other vegetables in small quantities. From the fort we saw a large smoke at a dis- tance supposed to proceed from a volcanick mountain. Left camp at 11 o'clock & traveled briskly over a sandy country suf- fered considerable for water as the day was exceedingly hot came to a creek about 6 oclock & never was water to me more excepta- ble though of a very indifferent quality, passed down the Creek a short distance at the foot of a mountain & found boiling water running out of the ground. It made its appearance just above the age of the water in the River in a Boiling state for over a hund- red yards it runs more or less. One of our company cooked a fish which he caught from the creek in about two minutes perfectly through. The water was so salt that the fish was sufficiently seasoned. Crossed the Creek & camped common grass traviled 15 m.
4. Concluded to stay here & let our cattle & horses rest to- day. Two of our company getting impatient left us this morning spent the day repairing, washing, &c.
Monday 5th Sept. Started at 73 oclock left the Creek our road led mostly through vallies we found more grass & and less
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sage than common came to a little water at 10 o'clock but con- cluded not to stop. Exceedingly warm came to a sinall stream at 2 oclock & camped. Cattle far behind & much fatigued trav- ilcd 16 m.
6. Started at 73 followed down the stream found Snake River close by followed it down about one mile & struck across a moun- tain. Came to a creek at 10 oclock. Stopped for dinner 3 hours our path wound along the sides of mountains & frightful precipices & in many places if our animals make one miss-step it would be cer- tain death, The path continued up & down rocky hills until we came to a good camping ground about 5 oclock traviled 13 m.
7. Started at 73 rose a most tremendous hill the highest I have rose on the rout, got a fall from a horse hurt my foot some. The road is more precipitous than ever, up & down and constant- ly over rocks. Crossed several streams. Stoped for dinner at 10 oclock started at 1, and commenced climbing hills again crossed several small streams and found good grass most of the way came to the stream on which we camped last night. Camped at 4 oc traviled 10 miles.
Thursday 8, Sept. Horses strayed far from camp and instead of an early start as we intended we got off at 9 oclock we left the Branch and gradually a rose a long hill. Stopped for dinner on a small stream at 12 oclock started at 23 & continued to rise by degrees.
The country over which we have traviled to day is mostly cov- ered with Bunch Grass which the Horses are very fond of. We at last found the top of the mountain at a distance we could see what we suppose to be the Blue mountains and they struck us with terror their lofty peaks seemed a resting place for the clouds. Below us was a large plain and at some distance we could discover a tree which we at once recognized as "the lone tree" of which we' had before heard. We made all possible speed and at 73 o'clock the advance party arrived at the Tree nearly an hour before the cattle. The Tree is a large Pine stand[ing] in the midst of an ini- mense plain intirely alone. It presented a truly singular appearance and I believe is respected by every traviler through this almost Treeless Country. Within a few yards we found pleanty of water and we soon made ourselves comfortable by a good fire. As soon as we arrived at the top of the hill in sight of the Blue moun- tains felt an uncommon chilly wind which increased so as to be uncomfortable befors we arrived. As soon as we reached the val- ley we found our old friend Sage flourishing in a most unwelcome manner. The grass about camp was not good, traviled 18 miles.
Friday 9. Sept. Horses far from camp this morning, found pleanty of frost on our beds and all about. Left camp at 8 oclock but was a long time finding the right trail. Cold wind from the B. mountains on tops of which we soon discovered heaps of snow.
Came to a large Creek which we followed a while & stopped for dinner at 123 oclock. Started at 3 crossed the Creek. Crossed 2 more creeks soon and camped at 43 oclock. We should have traviled on but we was afraid of being in the night without water,
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this is the difficulty of traviling without a Pilot. Found good wood, water, and grass about at our camp traviled 11 miles. Cold wind.
Sept. 10. Saturday verry cold morning. Horses far from camp. Started at 8 oclock found good places for camping which we might have come to last night. Commenced rising gradually at 10 oclock continued to rise until 12 when we came to a tre- mendous hill to descend. The mountains on our left were close by they rose gradualy and were covered with Pine Trees. Our descent lasted for near an hour, about midway of the hill was a little water course crossing our path & afforded us a resting place around this place were several Pine Trees. I noticed the White Pine and the Spruce Pine. Some were verry tall & slim. From this little grove down the hill was more difficult all were obliged to dismount for safety. It was verry sidling and uncomfortable rocky. Below was a most beautiful valley as I ever saw. We found good grass, a delightful road, & a fertile country in the valley, we crossed some small water courses and camp on a beautiful Creek at 3 o'clock good grass, & water & an abundance of wood traviled 20 miles found several well beaten trails leading from camp but none appeared fresh. After dark two Indians came to camp on horseback. They were of a different tribe from any which we had seen. They had traps and appeared to have been out but a short time. They told us that we could get to Wala Wala in 3 days.
Sept. 11. Sunday started at 73 o'clock with our Indians for Guide. They took us a northern direction & put us on the com- panies trail about 10 o'clock we then came to the Creek which we had left in the morning and followed it down. We discovered a band of Horses on the other side of the Creek. Our Indians left us about noon and crossed the Creek to these Horses which were be- ing driven in the same direction we were going. We saw more Horses ahead. Came to an Indian village at 2 o'clock and camped near them, traviled 18 miles.
The first thing to be attended to after we camped was to as- sertain whether we could get any provisions from the Indians. We found to our great joy they had pleanty and instead of starv- ing as we expected we were able to trade enough fish to last us to Dr. Whitmans. There were several lodges & they were well clad & had hundreds of good horses and an abundance of provision. I have seen no Indians since I started which appear so happy & well provided for as these. The beneficial influence of the Mis- sionary Society appears to have reached here. They attended morning and evening devotion in our camp.
12 Sept. Monday. Horses strayed far from camp and scattered among the Indians' Horses. The Indians showed moral honesty by bringing horses to us which had strayed by themselves to some distance. Started at 93 o'clock several Indians started with us one continued & said he would go to Dr. Whitmans. Com- menced raising a Mountain by degrees. Came to. trees, at first quite thin & without underbrush having tine grass. But as we
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arose we came to a densly tinibered country, mostly pine & fir. The most beautiful tall straight trees. Our traviling through the timber was quite difficult as the path wound back and forth and many logs lay across it. We decended & arose a tremendous hill and about 3 o'clock our Indian Guide beckoned us to take a by path to find water, we did so and after traveling a few hundred yards found a little opening of timber & pleanty of good water & some grass. Camped here for the night trav. 10 miles. Cool & cloudy considerable of rain after dark. Horses got frightened tied some up & the rest remained near.
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