USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 33
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24th Made 12 miles N. by W. and using what looked like a fine ford I tried to wade the river but at first failed went a little lower and succeeded and got back safe but benumbed with cold and after warming myself at a fire which the rest had built took my things across and built a roaring fire to warm the others as they came over here found some beaver cuttings saw but little deer or sign today cold wind W. cloudy snow nearly gone.
25th. Made 10 miles N. and seeing a little deer sign stopped and our hunter went out during the march we heard a gun on the west side of the river we fired guns and were answered toward night a little Snake Indian came to us and induced us to go to their camp which was among the cedars about 5 miles N. E. we found them without meat but we bought of them a lean dog of which we made supper and enough left for breakfast so tis rub and go. there were three lodges they had no guns but had killed much deer as proved by the number of skins they had last night and this forenoon snowed about 5 inches today rained and melted most of it no water except snow and that dirty at. this camp.
26th Under the guidance of a Snake Indian we struck N. W. to the river 7 miles and forded it at a rapid and waist deep ford then W. by N. 4 miles and came to 8 lodges of Snakes here our guide I suppose heard that our camp had moved and backed out of his job by running away we then struck N. W. 8 miles and came to the small river on which we [camped] the 18th 19th and 20th ulto here we saw one Indian who ran from us who appear- ed to be a Snake. while we were debating which course to pursue we espied 4 Indians on the opposite side of the creek these we spoke and they Informed us where our camp was and one of them took my pack to it they had killed several deer but we thought to get to camp and did not take any we made from the creek N. .N. W. up a very steep high hill 5 miles and coming very dark we camped for the first time this trip without supper and me without blanketts and tired enough.
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27th Got up and having no breakfast to cook or eat started the earlier and moved N. N. W. 2 miles and the rest refused to go further preferring to wait until some chance Indian should come along hunting to take them the right way to camp I having no pack started in quest of it and passing the N. N. W. course in I 16 mile found it on a little thread of water running N. and deep snow during the time we had been gone they had killed 20 deer and had not starved the Walla Walla Indians are here hunting. 'They go out on their horses and run them and as the deer get tired the Inds. get good shots at them but the number wounded is much greater than that killed on these the wolves feast at night and keep up a continual howl after these last comes the ravens for their share I found missing from yesterday 6 horses among which was my two fine riding horses and three others which have been stolen by the Snakes who are up to this kind of dealing today sent men to look for the 6 and they brot but one day fine for any country and warm tonight freezing cold.
28th Sent out two men again for the 5 missing horses and aft- er finding the residue which not until noon started N. by W. and after 12 miles struck the old trail on which I came up about 6 miles from our camp of 16 & 17 day very fine nothing to eat tonight but a little flour camped on a little stream made by the thawing of the snow.
29th Rose early and without any breakfast started down the valley on which we camped last night which joins a large fork of the Des Shutes in about 3 miles from this and leaving the old trail on which I came up to the left made N. N. E. 2 miles then leaving the valley to the left made 1 12 miles N. E. then going down a very steep and high cut rock bank E. I mile crossed the large fork of the Des Shutes about 2 miles below my camp of the 16th and 17th ulto. this ford is deeper and more rapid than the one I made before possibly the stream is higher on account of the thawing of the snow We are camped with about 12 lodges of Walla Wallas they have at this moment a good supply of meat deer which they are drying I presume they have not often so much on hand as they seem to value it highly on my arrival I made the chief a good present to induce him to influence his people to trade but as yet have traded of root and meat but about 3 days supply I intend waiting here three nights in order that they make another hunt and then perhaps I may get a sufficient supply to take me down. Tomorrow is Sunday and there will be neither trading nor hunting in this camp this is my birthday but I have forgotten how old I am
30th This unless my reconing is wrong is Sunday at day dawn the chief called the Inds. to prayers which consist of a short recitation followed by a tune in which all join without words after which a note in accord to wind off this is repeated several times on Sunday and is a dayly practice at daylight to-
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day the two men sent for the horses came in and brought 4 2 of which were my riding horses this day warm as June in N. E. and no snow in this valley.
3Ist The Inds. commence their meal with religious ceremonys and then come and beg a smoke the day is also closed with religious ceremonies traded about 2 days provisions of the Indians
day fine as summer and the grass begins to start a little
Feb. Ist Started [from?] camp early and made 8 miles N. by E. over a trail which we followed the latter part of the 16 ulto. I then laid the course S. S. W. to make ourcamp of the 16 & 17 which was about I mile above our last nights camp traded today about 2 days provisions looked at the rocks a little and as the country has been the same as far as I have been a description of the bluffs here will answer for the whole. There are some cut blufs of Basalt in its original position but they are chiefly a very coarse sand stone of an ash color in layers some of which are finer and some coarser it is soft and is composed of rubble stone of lava and primitive rocks it sometimes contains organic remains bones I have taken out of it in a fos[s]il state a small piece of which I have preserved Today cloudy and on the high land over which we came today it was quite chilly but in the valley of the Small creek on which we are camped it is warm latter part of the day sunny.
2nd Moved camp N. by E. 8 miles over a plain and pretty good trail leaving entirely the route which I followed coming up the Indians killed some deer grass appears better day cloudy or foggy until about noon when the sun came out like April in N. E.
3rd This day the Indians concluded not to move camp I therefore requested the chief to call on his people to come and trade meat they traded about 6 days provisions and I left them following the trail N. by E. 8 miles to a creek which we crossed in our march of the 12th u[l]to. the Banks of this creek is of fine deep red clay and at this camp there is a hot spring too hot to bear the hand in long and smoking like a coal pit it tastes of sulphur and iron and deposits a whitish substance on the pebbles as it dries away we hear for the first time this season the croak- ing of the frogs trail good, grass good, day cloudy and chill. Ther in spring 191ยบ
4th. Early in mng. took my thermometer to ascertain the heat of the spring found it to be 134" and took a good bath by going a little distance down the stream to find a suitable tempera- ture and this first time for a long while feel myself pretty clean. rose camp and crossed the little stream on which we camped and leaving the Indian trail struck N. N. E. and in 6 miles came to the main river Des Shutes along which we found a small trail we made 4 miles N. and camped during this distance the river could be run by a good boatman but it is almost a continued rapid
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the rocks of this march appear to be all shades between green and red similar to the earth it appears by being porous to be volcanic the first course of the march very miry the last firm and pretty good, grass improving, day cloudy in morning sunny this afternoon. Saw much Big Horn and deer sign by the way. 5th Made along the river I mile N. then west 2 miles up a mountain then N. I mile and down a ravine then E. N. E. 2 miles to the main river again and down a ravine then 7 miles N. by E. along the main river and camped trail plain all the way but very hilly and stony grass good, day at first cloudy and on the mountain much hoar frost in afternoon sunny the upper part of the mountain was of mica slate very much twist- ed this afternoon the rock was volcanic and in some places un- derlaid with green clay Saw today small bolders of a blackrock which from its fracture I took to be bituminous coal but its weight was about that of hornblende perhaps it might be Obsidian but I think was heavier than any I have ever seen river all this days march might be run if there is no bad place where I cut the mountain saw Big Horn trails but not the game.
6th Made along the river 4 miles N. by W. during which space saw nothing that might not be passed by a good boatman then mounted the W. bank of the river and came to a large cedar plain 3 miles N. by W. then N. by E. over the plain 6 miles more to tinkers camp in crossing at this camp wet my cases with all my papers by a horse falling in the river while fording day cloudy with a little snow found this branch some higher than when I passed up here we found and raised a small cash which I made on my way up and during the march sent two men to raise another which I made at the next camp above from these Indians I hear that [of ] my runaway Kanackas 10 took the trail over the Blue one was drowned in crossing some ford one froze in the upper country that the residue rafted the Snake riv- er one more died somehow about the falls that 7 are gone down to Vancouver tonight traded 8 dogs for their fat to kill the lice on my horses.
7th Early in the day the two men sent to raise the cash came in with its contents undamaged exchanged at this camp a poor little, lame, mare for a tolerable horse in pretty good order trad- ed for a knife each 6 dogs today used the grease of these dogs to kill the lice on my horses that are nearly covered with them day cloudy but not cold in the valley Mount Hood bears % point N. of N. W. sick myself of a bowell complaint cashed at this camp : 73 bales corn and 7 setts shoes and nails.
8th N. N. W. 16 miles in the first place 2 miles to the top of an elevated range of woodless hills which skirt the west side of the creek on which we camped then down the slope of these hills 4 miles more during this space much snow then struck in- to a little creek which we followed 6 miles then up the left bank
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of this creek to another and larger fork of the same 4 miles and camped in good grass This creek comes from the S. W. and is now as large as the small creek on which I camped the first night after leaving the mouth of the river Des Shutes on my way up there are several Indians with me who say that once there was much beaver on this creek but that the British Cos have trapped it out day cloudy a few drops of rain.
9th Moved camp early on a plain and good trail N. N. W. 10 miles to the Dalls after following on this trail 3 miles we came to a small creek coming from the W. S. W. and joining the one on which we camped last night and at 5 miles more another which either joins the same very near the Columbia or goes into the Columbia found Soaptilly[?] and a few more Chinooks at the river of whom I traded one horse and a canoe they report 7 Canackas gone down and that one was drowned at the falls and one froze in the mountains leaving one unaccounted for rained a little today.
roth Started early in a very leaky canoe which kept us bailing all the time and made 8 miles N. W. 5 W. and 3. S. W. I west and on account of high wind camped about noon a little rain as usual.
IIth At about sunsett last night the wind lulled a little and we made a start but the wind continued high and about 2 ock we arrived at the Cascades a little above which we camped this morning went to the Cascades and there found Mr Ermatinger with a brigade of 3 boats taking up the outfits for the upper forts also Capt. Stewart Mr Ray and one more gentleman made the port- age and in 12 hours made the saw mill.
12th In the morning made to Vancouver and found there a polite reception and to my great astonishment Mr Hall J. Kell[e]y he came in Co. with Mr Young from Monte El Rey and it is said stole between them a bunch of Horses Kell[e]y is not received at the Fort on this account as a gentleman a house is given him and food sent him from the Gov. Table but he is not suffered to mess here I also found 7 of my runaway Kanackas they appear to be very sick of their job so I have concluded not to be severe with them I hear also that Fort Hall has traded 300 skins up to what time do not know or how true also that Tom Bule & Harry two more of the runaways are with some of Mckays men on Snake River they will probably fall in at Fort Hall.
13th Went down to the station at Carneaus[?] and found all well and doing pretty well. This is Sunday and I have lost 3 days somewhere. During the residue of this month sent Mr Richardson to the Dalles with supplies for the party which I left above trapping he had tempestuous weather and was gone 13 days myself took a trip up the Wallamut to look after the farm and my taylor who had deserted me during the winter after
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Richardson had gone I took a small canoe and proceeded up the Columbia and in my progress got filled with the violence of the wind and quantity of rain I arrived at Vancouver in the morn- ing 23rd Feb. and met a reception such as one loves to find in such a country as this
24th Started down the Columbia to the mouth of the Walla- mut up which about 4 miles to the head of Wappatoo Islands here finding the cance to deep to proceed against the rapid cur- rent of this river now very high we put down the west slew and crossed over the first bank of the river into the waters back and went to the Farm of Mr Thomas Mckay and procured horses and went by land this took us all of the 25 & 26 both of which days it rained hard all the little streams made us swim our horses and some of the open prairies were swimming and much of them wading at night of the 26th arrived at Sandy camp just above which I had begun a farmn.
27th Went to the farm and found the Taylor and Sloat the foreman gone down to see me they having heard of my return during the day went up to Mr Lees place in order to get Bab- tiste to school with him in which I succeeded
28th returned to Camp Sandy rain today
29th Started for Mckay Farm during a hard rain and snow
30th Arrived at Mckays farm
3Ist Back to station at Carneaus [?] place and here found my runaway Taylor
March Ist From this time until the 8th employed him in get ting out coopers stuff and timber for a house boat which I intend to build.
Apl 13th Sunday I suppose employed in getting out stuff for the house boat in cutting 8000 hoop poles and in building a canoe 60 feet long wide and deep enough to chamber barrells of which she will take 25 she is clean of knotts shakes and almost of sap and 27 feet cut off the same tree of the same kind of stuff
the whole tree was 242 feet long and this by no means the largest tree on Wappatoo Island this is of the Spruce kind to- day I am on my way down to Fort William where the Brig lay to regulate matters there I havejust parted from Mr Mclaughlin Esq. on his way to view the Fallatten [Tualatin }plains I suppose with some idea of making him a farm there some day I have now out of 21 people 7 sick and little work can be done after deducting from the remaining 14 a provision boat to trade food and enough to take care of the sick up to the first of this month it rained con- tinually and about 4 of the time since I find the plows which I brought from the States of no use in the new lands here no news as yet from Bg. or Capt Thing So far with much exertion we provided ourselves with food but the whites in this country are exhausted of all kinds.
For
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COPY OF A LETTER AND A STATEMENT OF FACTS PERTAINING TO A CLAIM BASED UPON OPERATIONS INVOLVED IN THE TWO EXPEDITIONS.
Camb. Dec 13th 1847
Dear Sir, The papers herewith enclosed are in continuation of of the subject brought to your notice in my letter of the 5th of April last which was accompanied by copy of statements relating to claims of John McLoughlin Esq., formerly chief Factor in charge of the H. B. Co's western district comprising all the territories oc- cupied by that Co west of the Rocky Mts. but who has since re- tired from their service, and resides at Oregon City. This state- ment or memorial was dated previous to the late treaty of bound- ary with Great Britian, and under the impression that his rights would be subjected to the capricious justice of the new settlers who had then formed a provisional government. I conceive that the said treaty fully secures his rights, or should they not be secured by the treaty, you will oblige me by securing them so far . as in your power. I have placed the copy of his memorial as above stated in your hands for this purpose. At this time I shall confine myself to my own interests in Oregon.
Having gone to Oregon in march 1832 for purposes recognized by the convention then existing between the U. S. & G. B. having formed establishments there of the same character and for the same purposes, as those formed previously by the N. W. & Hudson's Bay Cos. having maintained one of the same through tenant to the present time, and having after two expeditions, ac- companied by much suffering and expenditure of five years time, and more than $20,000 in money, established the nucleus of the present American settlement in these regions, I ask the American government to place my interests in that country on as favorable a basis, as the treaty of boundary places those of British subjects whose pos[s ]essions are of the same character. The recommendation of the President would benefit only actual settlers, and would en- tirely exclude me. It seems to me a law might be passed consist- ent with justice, granting a preemption to all Americans who have ever resided in Oregon, and who occupied land there, and con- tinued to hold the same either directly or by agents or tenants, to
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the absolute extent of the property so occupied, as it was at the period of the organization of the provisional government of Oregon. And to all Americans actual settlers, occupying lands after the or- ganization of said provisional government, and until the extension of the laws of the U. S. over the territory. a preemption to all the lands so occupied not exceeding one square mile.
I do not believe a law mainly such as proposed above would benefit a single American except myself. I do not know one other who has occupied more than a mile square, while there are sev- eral British subjects who have done so, and whose claims are all secured by the treaty whether large or small. And unless some such law is passed it appears to me that I am to be stripped of all my rights, and that the great sacrifices I have made will inure to the the benefit of all concerned except myself. That you may bet- ter understand why I desire some protection from the government I here with send a statement of facts No. 1, and a petition to Congress No 2. I remain Very Respectfully
Yr' obt Svt. Nathl J. Wyeth.
To Hon. J. G. Palfrey, M. C.
(Statement of facts No. I)
On the roth day of March 1832 I left Boston in a vessel with 20 men for Baltimore where I was joined by four more, and on the 27th left by Rail Road for Frederic Md from thence to Brownsville we marched on foot, and took passage from that place to Liberty Mo. on various steamboats, which place we left for the prairies on the 12th of May with 21 men, three having deserted, and on the 27th of May three more deserted. On the 8th of July we reached Pierre's Hole at the head of Lewis River where was then a rendez- vous of Trappers and Indians. We remained at this place until the 17th at which time my party had been reduced by desertion and dismissial to 11 men, and then started for the Columbia arriv- ing at Cape Disappointment on the 8th Nov. 1832, one man having died on the route. There I learned that a vessel on which I relied for supplies had been wrecked at the Society Is- lands. This intelligence discouraged the party so much that. all but two requested a discharge. Of the 8 who then left me 5 re- turned to the U. S. by sea, one died there in 1834 and two re- mained as settlers. In the Spring of 1833 I commenced my return to the states with the two remaining men. When I reached the mouth of the Yellowstone one left me to remain with some of the trappers until I should return. With the other I reached the States, and soon after fitted out a vessel for the Columbia, and on the 7th Feb. 1834 left Boston for St. Louis where I organised a party of 70 men for the overland trip arriving at the head waters
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of the Snake or Lewis river in July 1834, and on the 15th of that month commenced to build Fort Hall, and after placing it in a defensive condition left it on the 7th August following for the mouth of the Columbia. On the 15th of Sept. I reached Oak Point 75 miles from its mouth where I met my vessel just arrived after a voyage of 8 16 months, having been struck by lightening at sea and so injured as to be obliged to go into Valparaiso to re- pair. This vessel was fitted for the salmon fishing of that season. Her late arrival caused me to detain ber until the following year. During the winter of 1835 this vessel went to the Sandwich Islands with timber & card returned in the Spring with cattle sheep goats & hogs which were placed on Wappatoo Island where in the mean time I had built an establishment called Fort William on the south- westerly side of the island and about 8 miles from the H. B. Co's post of Vancouver. At this post we grazed all the animals ob- tained from the Islands California and from the Indians, planted wheat corn potatoes peas beans turnips, grafted & planted ap- ples and other fruits, built dwelling house and shops for working iron and wood, and in fact made a permanent location which has never been abandoned. . I made this my personal residence dur- ing the Winter and Summer of 1835. In the autumn of that year I proceeded to Fort Hall with supplies, having sent some previous to that time. During the winter of 1836 I resided at my post of Fort Hall, and in the Spring of that year returned to Fort William of Wappatoo Island whence I carried more sup- plies to Fort Hall arriving there the 18th June, and on the 25th left lor the U. S. by way of Taos and the Arkansas river and ar- rived home early in the Autumn of 1836. The commercial dis- tress of that time precluded the further prosecution of our enter- prise, that so far had yielded little but misfortunes. It remained only to close the active business which was done by paying every debt, and returning every man who desired, to the place whence he was taken, and disposing of the property to the best advantage. All the property in the interior including Fort Hall was sold, it being necessary in order to retain that post, to keep up a garrison for its defense against the Indians, and to forward annual supplies to it, an operation at that time beyond our means. Fort William at Wappatoo Island requiring nothing of that kind was retained, and the gentleman then in charge Mr C. M. Walker was directed to lease it to some trusty person for 15 years unless sooner reclaim- ed. Nothing having been heard from Mr Walker for a long time I sent a request to John Mclaughlin Esq. for the same purpose and also to have the island entered in my name at the land office established by the provisional government. That the original en- terprise contemplated a permanent occupation is clearly shown by the instructions to the master of the brig Capt Lambert When I arrived on the lower Columbia in the Autumn of 1832 as her[e]in before stated there were no Americans there nor any one having
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an American feeling. So far as I know there had not been since Mr. Astor retired from the coast. Of the II men which I had then with me three remained until I again arrived in the Autumn of 1834 and 19 of those who then accompanied me including the missionaries remained permanently in the country. Nath 1 J. Wyeth
INDEX.
A
Abbot, Wiggin, letter to him as an em- ployee of the author, 70;93; placed in charge of animals purchased for second expedition, 98; letter to containing terms of contract with author, 99; 130, 131, 178, IS3-4 Allison and Anderson, letter to giving directions for shipment of goods purchased at Louisville, 121
American Fur Company (Dripps and Fontenelle) 69, 74, 158, 159. 204-5. 210-8
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