USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 3
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Sept. 13 Tuesday. Started at 83 and followed back our path until we came to the main trail when we pusued our dismal rout, Our path today led through more dense places & driving our pack animals & cattle was almost impossible. Occasionally we found a clear spot frequently several acres together and in thie forenoon several little springs of water, towards evening we left the timber and found ourselves on a rolling Prairie of good soil. Continued to decend until near sunset when to our great joy we found water and wood but poor grass. Camped traviled 20 miles.
Sept. 14. Our Indian Guide told us we would get to Dr. Whitman's today but we hardly expected it as our animals were verry much jaded. But it was nearer than we expected and we arrived at 3 o'clock and camped near his house traviled 8 m.
Dr. Whitman is a Missionary of the Presbyterian Order he has been in the Country six years. He has a verry comfortable house and is farming to a considerable extent. He has a Thrashing Ma- chine & a grinding mill all under one roof driven by water power. Many Indians around him. I was never more pleased to see a house or white people in my life, we were treated by Dr. and Mrs. Whitman with the utmost kindness. We got what provision we wanted on very reasonable terms. I have just heard of the Death of young man who started from Independence with us. He was with the Hudson Bays Company and got drowned himself and horse crossing the Snake River soon after he left us. What is to me remarkable it was his gun and by an accident of his hand that put an end to poor Baily at Independence Rock. A small detach- ment, Forces', from the hind company came up.
Sept. 15. Having recd verry bad treatment from the Indians we concluded to get away from here as soon at possible & try to find more grass, some of our company started before noon but we could not get ready until 33 oclock when we started down about 4 miles and found the rest of our company camped in an excel- ent spot. Forces came up also after dark. 16. Started at 8 oclock kept down the Walawala River and camped at 1 o'clock within 3 miles of the Fort. Traviled 12 miles. Visited the Fort saw Esqr Crocker, Doct. White had left before noon in the Com- panies Boat.
All the foremost company had gone by land except Esqr. & Moss who started this evening toovertake theni. I had an intro- duction to Mr. MeKenly who is in charge at the fort. The Fort is rebuilding now having lately been burnt. It is situated on a
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JOURNAL.
miserable sandy barren place where the sand drifts with the wind like snow. The Walla Walla River emties in & forms the Co- lumbia here.
17. Sept. Saturday started at 9 o'clock drove to the Fort found Mr. McKenly from home not to return until evening could not get the Doct's Things drove down the river and camped, traviled four miles. The rest of the company went on. The Banks of the River on each side present tremendous pinacles of rock mostly perpendicular. We find considerable of sage yet in places.
Sept. 18. Sunday. Went to the Fort before breakfast and got our things. Started at 93 o'clock lost two animals went back and found [them] and kept down the river, the most of time a steep bluff of rocks was on our left with occasional spots of grass sufficient for camping purposes stoped three hours for dinner, much sand and frequently in large drifts camped near sunset, traviled 12 m.
Sept. 19. Started at 8 a'clock drove on at a good pace verry warm day camped in a good spot on the river traviled 15 m.
Sept. 20. Startedat 8 o'clock kept down the river verry sandy barren country destitute of timber (crossed the Unadilla). Cold wind & little rain. Mr. Spaulding & Lady over took us at noon rain increased. Camped at 4 o'clock, traviled 18 miles. Considerable rain. Cleared off before bed time. Mr. Gray called at camp on his return from Vancouver.
21. Started at 10 o'clock and parted with Mr. & Mrs. Spald- ing who in consequence of some intelligence from Mr. Gray re- solved to return. Cold wind. Camped at 5 o'clock, traviled 20 miles.
22. Started late, cold wind bad road, traviled 18 miles.
23. Started late, tremendous west wind, lost my horse last night, Indians brought him into camp this morning, verry rocky road over steep sidling places, crossed a large creek about noon. Camped at 4 o'clock. Traviled 11 miles.
24th Sept. Started verry late, tremendous west wind & sand drifting like snow in our faces, passed over some large drifts. Came to a tremendous rapid Creek, obliged to take all our effects over in a canoe which was dangerous. Passed tremendous rocky falls in the River. Large Indian town, traviled 6 m.
25 Sept. Sunday, I feel bad this morning in consequence of getting wet yesterday and my eyes are much affected by the fly- ing sand. Started at 11 o'clock traviled over hills & sidling places, saw a high snowy peak which we understand to be Mt. Hood. Passed the Dalls or rapids of the river which is a singular sight. Ar- rived at Mt. Perkins at 3 o'clock, found our old company there, traviled 8 miles. Mr. Perkins preached in camp this evening.
26. Visited Mr. Perkins at his house. Was verry kindly rec'd and hospitably treated, got potatoes &c. and started at 1 o'clock with an Indian Guide, rose a long hill and left the river, traviled over the most romantic country I have yet seen. The day is verry pleasant indeed and the tall trees through which we are passing
-
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adds much to the beauty of the prospect. On our left arises Mt. Hood with its snowy peak glistening in the sunbeams, on the right & about the same distance Mt. Helena which resembles Mt. Hood verry much. As we descended towards evening we saw far below us the river flowing as it were & dividing the two snowy peaks. We descended a considerable of a hill and found the pleasantest camp, the best wood, grass, and water we have had in a long time, travilled 12 miles.
27. Started early arose and decended several rocky hills. Camped in the woods verry little grass indeed, traviled 11 m.
28. Started at 83, got behind on account of a mule being lost. Our company left us. We started at 9 o'clock, missed one of our Indian horses but I thought he was with the other company. We came to a verry rapid river just as they were across, very dif- ficult crossing on account of large rocks and deep water, almost impossible to get along up the steep hills over the rocks & be- tween the trees. Caught up with the company at 11 o'clock, found my horse not there started back to find him, found him at the camp we left had much difficulty to get him along. Two In- diaus overtook me at the river on my return with 5 good horses. I traviled with then: until dark when we came to an Indian Camp where we concluded to sleep. I got a few berries and a little fish for my supper. I crossed several rapid streams flowing from those snowy mountains before I got to Camp where I slept. We found no grass for our horses at all, traviled 13 miles.
29. Arose early after a verry uncomfortable night's rest having only one blanket and a piece of Robe. My horses looked so bad I got one of the Indians horses to ride, started early without eat- ing a particle, found the road horrible beyond description, met John Force soon who said he had lost 2 horses & was in searchi. The company had all tied up their horses to trees except the two that he had lost. He returned with us and gave up the search, overtook the rear of the company about 10 o'clock. One of our mules had been lost the day before while I was gone back for the horse. The horse I went back after gave out from hunger & fa- tigue, being verry poor, and I was obliged to leave him in the woods, traviled along all day over hills and precipices, rocks and mire holes, over logs and under trees and across rapid streams, until at sunset we found a verry little grass not worth mention- ing & camped, traviled 20 miles. I found my apetite verry good having eat verry little in 36 hours.
30. Started early, found our animals verry hollow and weak, passed down and crossed the stream found considerable grass in 2 miles from camp, traviled on until 11 o'clock when we stopped to bait our animals which were starving, started at 1 and drove on over as bad and some worse roads than ever, having frequent mire holes with logs in them, traviled up and down long hills and stopped at dark with verry little grass and the most dismal & un- pleasant camp I ever saw, traviled 13 miles.
Sunday, October Ist, 1842. My horse cannot be found this morning, 3 out of 5 of our riding animals give out so we have to
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start on foot. Starting at 8} found my horse on the way, horid road, logs & mud holes. Doct. Whites American mare verry near giving out, found some grass and stopped at noon, traviled 5 miles. Concluded to stay here tonight.
Oct. 2, Sunday. Started at 9 o'clock some bad road met 3 of the young men who went down first, arrived at their camp at 4} o'clock, good grass and water, traviled 16 miles.
3d. A few of us accompanied those who were here before us to the Falls of Willamut where we found many people & considera- ble of buisness. Saw Dr. White & others who arrived before us, we were handsomely recd and kindly treated.
4. Packed up and started at 9 oclock called at the Falls and took dinner, found some of the men who came over with us at work on a mill. Mr. Jones & a man by name of Cooke much in- jured by blasting rocks, drove on and overtook our pack. Camped on a Creek. Traviled 10 miles.
5. Started at 93 crossed several streams, bad road. Camped in the settlements at the house of a Frenchman who treated us verry kindly, traviled 10 m.
October 6. Started late took a round about road arriveat the mission at 2 o'clock, traviled 10 miles. Oct. 7. Rode about to see the country like it much. This is among the first frosty nights.
8. Went to the mill with Mrs. & Miss Brown. Mr. Benitt and Pomeroy together with several young men arrived in the set- tlement.
9. Sunday. Attended church twice today. Oct. 10. Mr. Pomeroy returned to the Falls. I crossed the River to see the country, stayed all night with Mr. O'Neil. 11. Rainy. morning cleared off soon. Crossed the River & stayed all night at the Doct. House. 12. Clear fine weather. 13. Went with Mr. Shortess & Doct. Babcock to Youngs valley. Beautiful country, returned and wrote to my Father. 14. Commenced working a little. 18. Oct. Rainy morning cloudy day. 19. Oct. Rainy morning, cloudy & thick mist. 20. Rainy morning, cloudy day & some rain, rainy night. 21. Cloudy morning and day.
Distance from Independence to Willamette Falls according to iny estimate 1746 Miles.
Laramy 553 miles
Ft. Hall 1107
Perkins 1656 W. Falls 1746
Walla Walla 1552
Pack No. I.
2 Doz. Butcher Knives
I Pr. Blankets Tobaco
I Bunch Blue Agate Beads
I Bunch Glass Beads
I do Garnishing Blue
I do Fancy White I do Fish Hooks
1 do Garnishing White
I Piece Blue Cloth
Tobaco, Powder, Glass Beeds, Fancy White. B. Garnishing, B. White
23
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JOURNAL.
Butcher knives, Blue Agate Beeds, I Blue Garnishing Beeds. Fish Hooks, Blue Cloth, Crawfords Cloathes. 2 bunch Bells, Rice, Flints. 2 Gross Rings, 2 Doz. Looking G., I Blue Garnishing Beads, Crock- er's Cloathes, Red Cloth, Lead.
Pack No. 2
Crawfords Cloathes
2 gross Rings
Crockers Cloathes
2 Doz. Looking Glasses
I Blanket I Bunch Garnishing Beades
2 Bunches Bells
Rice & Flints
I Piece Red Cloth Bar Lead.
Commenced driving cart July 12 1842 noon. Left cart July 28 noon.
Dr. White
Dr. Apr. 2 Doct. White Cr.
To horse
40
By Cash
5
Postage 25
do
3
50
Soap
75
Cash I
Discount, Bishop
5
I8 (mutilated) 26 Rido up from
" " Bill at Batavia [mutilated] 28 Washing 60
" " Fare to Buffalo [mutilated] "" Gun rep.
50
19 Caps, Primer, Mould tube 2 15 MayIIndia Rubber & comb
IS
22 Bill at Buffalo 3 75
""Caps & Cloth & etc 35
" " Tailor Bill
25 "" Fish hooks & line 25
19
6666 Fare to Cataraugus Dinner
50 15 Soap & Hat I
I3
25 Fare to Erie S. B.
24 Bill at Erie
"" Fare to Pittiburgh
Dinner & etc
50 I Pack Saddle 2 50
25 Breakfast & etc
50 I Belt and Scabbard I 00
31 Powder 54 .
Dinner
38 Provisions ect. at McCarty 7 05
Supper
50 Bill for Sundries at Independ- 38 ence 8 30
50 Noland's Board Bill 3 13
4
Pasture
38
20 Sunday 4 p. on S. B.
50
Bill
25
Ap. I Bridle & Saddle
3
Dishes I 86
I8
" Theatre & sundries
50 St. Louis Exchange Bill 10 00
Washing
50 Fare to Independence S. B. 10 00 Blankets 8 50
' 2 Bill at Cincinnati
2 38
" " Fare to St. Louis
0 75 Saddle do I 50
7 Expenses on boat
50 Horse for Cublette 25 00
"17 Sundries at St. Louis
I 50 Fare from River to Independ- ence I 50
Horse hire I
Ballance due I 25
2[ Bill at St. Louis IO
$82 94
"" Fare to In [mutilated ]
IO
20 1b s. Sugar
2 00
Alum
25
2 " Saluratus
50
2 Bags
: 75
Rosin
08
Augur
Nails 37
Tea
5 25
[mutilated]
I pr. Gloves
3 55 17 Bill at Independence I Paid for Soap 75 75
6 33 M. Crawford to Dr. White Dr.
Breakfast
Dinner at Pittsburgh
Fare to Cincinnati
6666 Pantaloons
3 50 Bar Lead
Spurs, paper, pencil points wach rep-
50 4 Hobbles
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JOURNAL.
Waggon Whip I 00
Harness 5 00
Trace Chains
50
Mule Chollar I 25
Hames
2 00
Box 38
Coffee Mill
1 00
Blacksmith's Bill 6 25
Blacksmith's Bill
3 37
Towels
25 5 4[ 49
Blind Bridles
3 00
Spade
[ 25
8 30
Act of wheat taken by Crawford. Act of wheat taken by O'Neil. Bu
Bu
Sept. 17. Sent to mill (w)
2
Sept. 24 Sent to inill w I 12 :
Oct. 23. Smith got (w)
25
Sent to mill w 2
28. C. Applegate got w
5
Richardson got w 12
29. J. Applegate got w 5
large measure
Campbell for Jones w 612 Nov. 19 Richardson got w
25
Mathena w
Millihan w 25
Act of money Recd by Crawford for Ferrying
for Ferrying
Hembree
I oo G. Hines 5 00
N. Ford
5 00 E. White 7 50
J. Garrison
3 00 D. Waldo 2 36
Amos Cook
5 00 R. Shortess 5 00
A. D. Smith
12 00 L. D. Keyser
13 00
I. Jones
7 50 J. Garrison 2 20
W. Rice
50 J. Manning 5 00
C. Reed
50 J. Applegate 5 CO
E. Garrison
I oo Dr. Babcock
3 00
H. Campbell
3 00 A. Beers
5 00
B. Williams
I 25 B. Williams
3 76
Stewart
I 00 G. Gay
10 00
E. Garrison
3 00 R. M'Cary
5 00
Catholic Mission Tatton
I 50 Francis Fletcher 5 00
A. Hembree
75
L. H. Judson
I 50 Act of Potatoes taken By
Thos. Smith
I 00 Crawford
Bush
Painter
oo Smith had
Blackfoot & Brenerd
8 00 Richardson 12
16
Dorson
I 25
Giger
50 Act of corn ears
Crawford 9Bu
3 12
Eeds 1 1/2
Pickett
I
Jones 7 12
Nov 21 I got 50 sheaves Jones oats Dec 27 I got I Bushel Jones wheat
22 I got 25
-
3I 3
I got 75
Jan 4 212
22
I 12
Jany. S Bushels
Feb 6 I
1 1/2
..
16
3 Bushels
Mar 4 66
" 10
I
13%
Apr
I
.6
-
I got of Mission wheat
Feb. 23 Bushels
I 25
P. Armstrong
5 00 Crawford
John Campbell
2 50 Crawford
Osborne
3 00 Thos. Cockram 5 00
Act of money Recd by O'Neil
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JOURNAL.
5
2
IS1/2 Apr. 8th got 1012
Nov 22
2
66
I
Dec 17
2-5 " 66
Picket worked for me cleaning wheat 2 days Thrashing &c. oats 2
Dec 20. I delivered at the mill 35 Bushels of wheat for Applegate and had 412 of it ground for myself. February 20 I delivered 2312 Bush of wheat for Applegate making in all 5812 Bushels one fourth of which I have for hauling. O. D. Smith deposited 23 bus. wheat in the mill for me.
Joel Walker got for me I got
2 bu.
2 bu.
Dec. 14 Pickett got
2 bu.
" 20 I got
268 1bs Flour
Feb. 20 I got 4 bu.
13
.Settled up 23
Picket & Jones commenced boarding Saturday Dec. 7. Dec. II Jones helped me get my hogs over the River.
J. Jones Dr.
To I Boar Shoat 5 00
To I week Board 2 50
To riding girts & trying lard I 50
To paid Pickett 2 60 J. Jones Cr.
By I sow 25 00
By 29 1bs 1 15c 4 35
Mr. Carter & myself cleaned 400 Bushels of Mission wheat for which we have 1-14. . We also thrashed and cleaned 379 Bushels for which we have 18.
I move in Garrison house Saturday Nov. 10 '44.
Nov. 20 A. Beers Cr By 534 1bs of lard .87. A. Beers By lbs lard.
66
1 1/2 6
66
66
Dec IO
SOURCES
-OF THE-
HISTORY OF OREGON.
VOLUME I.
PART 2.
Contributions of the Department of Economics and History of the University of Oregon. F. G. YOUNG, Editor.
The Indian Council at Walla Walla,
May and June, 1855,
By Col. Lawrence Kip, U. S. A.
A Journal.
EUGENE. STAR JOB OFFICE. 1897.
:
i
4
EDITORIAL NOTE.
This journal is regarded as peculiarly fitted to constitute the second number of these "Sources." It in an admirable way ex- presses the motive of the "war of the races" in the Pacific North- west. This struggle, with the intervals of peace, lasted from 1847 to 1873 before the red man relinquished to the white man undis- puted control over this region. The account is contemporaneous with the events it records, being an exact reprint of a small edition issued in 1855. It is thus to be classed as a primary source.
The story of the Council is told in a most effective and charm - ing manner. Nothing could be better adapted to elicit that popu- lar interest through which it is hoped that a movement may be sustained for making the instruction in history in the schools of Pacific Northwest commonwealths rational by being re- lated in a definite way to the up-building of civilization in these states.
Through an extended popular interest it may also be expected that much material that is valuable but as yet unappreciated will be brought to light.
Thanks are due the author for generously consenting to this use of his work.
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JOURNAL.
It was about ten o'clock on a morning in the beginning of May, that our good steamer crossed the bar at the mouth of the Columbia river, from its shifting shoals the most dangerous navi- gation on the whole Pacific coast. Our passage of six days from San Francisco had been remarkably stormy, and probably there were none on board more delighted than myself at the prospect of once more standing on terra firma. "Life on the ocean wave", has some very pretty poetical ideas connected with it, but I pre- fer to have got through with all my rocking in my babyhood, and now sympathize with the conservative party in wishing all things to be firm and stable. I am unfortunately one of those
"Whose soul dose sicken o'er the heaving wave."
At noon we reached the village of Astoria, rendered classical ground by Washington Irving. An old trapper still living, who belonged to Mr. Astor's first party, says he has often seen 1,000 Indian canoes collected on the beach in front of the fort. When the Hudson Bay Company took charge of it, they removed their establishment up the river to Vancouver, and allowed the fort to fall into decay, till not a vestige of it now remains. A few houses like the beginning of a village. are scattered along the banks which slope down to the river, wooded to the edge with pines. Opposite to this we anchored for a few hours to land freight, and then con- tinuing our course up the river, night found us still "on our wind- ing way."
At daylight I was awakened by the ceasing of the monotonous stroke of the engine and found we were opposite Fort Vanconver. The sun was just rising when I came on deck, so that I had the whole scene before me. Near theriver arelow meadow grounds, on which stands the post of the Hudson's Bay Company-a picketed enclosure of about three hundred yards square, composed of roughly split pine logs. Within this are the buildings of the es- tablishment, where once much of its immense fur trade was car- ried on. From these headquarters, their companies of trappers, hunters and voyageurs, generally Canadians, were sent out to thread the rivers in pursuit of the beaver. Alone they traversed vast plains, or passed months in the heart of the mountains, far north to the Russian possessions, or south to the borders of Cali- fornia, returning in one or two years with the furs to barter at the Fort. Then came generally a short time of the wildest revelry, until everything was dissipated or perhaps gambled away. when with a new outfit they set forth on another expedition. From Vancouver the Company sent their cargoes of furs and peltries to
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England, and thence they received by sea their yearly supplies. They possessed an influence over the Indians which was wonder- ful, and which the perfect system of their operations enabled them for years to maintain. But the transfer of the country to the Americans and the progress of civilization around them, driving out the Indians and beaver, has forced them to remove much of their business to other posts. on
Some distance back the ground rises, and the ridge stands the buildings of Fort Vancouver, one of the frontier posts of the United States Army, marked by the American flag waving on the parade ground in front. Far in the distance, like a cone of silver, on which the first rays of the sun was glancing, rose the snow- capped point of Mount Hood.
Among our passengers were one hundred and fifty recruits for the 4th Infantry, in charge of Captain Anger, with whom I land- ed about six o'clock, and was soon at the hospital quarters of Captain Wallen.
Fort Vancouver was at this time under command of Lieut .- Col. Bonneville, whose "Adventures" for three years in the ad- joining Indian country will always live and be read in the fasci- nating pages of Irving. Two companies of the 4th Infantry and one of the 3rd Artillery were stationed there. Altogether, it is probably the most pleasant of our posts on the Pacific coast. The place is healthy, the scenery around beautiful, furnishing oppor- tunities of fishing, hunting and riding, while its nearness to Port- land and Oregon City, prevents the young officers from being, as at many other Western posts, deprived of the refining influence of female society. Many are the occasions on which they find it necessary to drop down to these places. Deserters are supposed to be lurking there, garrison stores are to be provided, or some other of Uncle Sam's interests are to be looked after. Then, these visits must be returned, for the inhabitants of these places have an equal care for the welfare of their neighbors at the fort. Numer- ous, therefore, are the parties of pleasure which come from these towns to enliven the solitude of the garrison. On these occasions they are welcomed by balls, night after night the Regimental Band is heard floating over the waters of the Columbia river and the brilliant glare of lights from the fort shows that tattoo is not the signal for all within its walls to retire.
Here, a few days passed pleasantly, in the way garrison life al- ways does. In such places there is but little change. "One day telleth another." Guard mounting-the morning ride-the drill -the long talk over the dinner table-the evening parade-the still longer talk at night with reminiscences of West Point days -and then to bed. At this time Lieut. Hodges, (4th Infantry), was ordered to the post at The Dalles, about ninety miles distant, to conduct thither a company of recruits, and I, having no definite object in view, except to see as much of the country as possible, determined to accompany him.
We left Vancouver about six A. M., in a small steamer, "The Belle," which runs up the Columbia river about fifty miles, as far
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JOURNAL.
as the Cascades. The scenery of the river is in all parts beautiful, but very varied in its character. The pine forests stretch down to the banks, enlivened here and there by a cultivated spot which some settler has cleared, whose axe awakened new and strange echoes as it rang through the primeval woods. On the margin of the shore, and particularly on one of the islands, we noticed the dead houses of the Indians, rudely constructed of logs. Within, the bodies of the deceased are placed for a time, attired in their best array, until the building becomes filled. Then, the oldest occupants are removed and placed on the shore, till the tide launches them off on their last voyage and they are swept down to the ocean, which to the "untutored savage," as to his more cultivated brethren, symbolizes Eternity.
About noon, after a morning of almost incessant rain, we reached the Cascades, the head of navigation. Here, a portage has been made as the river for more than two miles flows over rocks, whirling and boiling in a succession of rapids, similar to those in the river St. Lawrence. Here is the great salmon fishery of the Columbia river, the season for which commences in this month, when the fish ascend the river in incredible numbers. The banks are inhabited by the remains of some of the Indian tribes, who display their skill in catching the salmon, which they dry for exportation. As we passed up, we found them scattered along the shore employed in this work. Little bridges are thrown out over the rocks, on which the Indians post themselves, with nets and hoops, to which long handles are attached. With these they
scoop up the fish and throw them on the shore. They are then pounded fine between two stones, cured and tightly packed in bales of grass matting lined with dried fish skin, in which state they will keep for years. The process is precisely the same as it was described by Lewis and Clarke. The aboriginal village of Wish-ram, at the head of the narrows, which they mention as be- ing the place of resort for the tribes from the interior to barter for fish, is yet in existence. We still notice, too, the difference which the early explorers observed, between these Indians and those of the plains. The latter living on horseback, are finely de- veloped, and look like warriors; the former, engaged only in their canoes or stooping over the banks, are low in statue and seem to have been dwarfed out of all manhood. In everything noble they are many degrees below the wild tribes of the plains.
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