USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 32
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2nd. Moved camp early and left the creek on which we camp- ed by a ravine to the right running S. S. W. followed it to the height of land then down a ravine to the creek on which we camped last night 6 miles followjed this creek 3 miles S. S. W then S. S.E. to the left of the creek by a ravine 5 more and camped We here find some little oak timber traded today about 30 1bs. dried deer meat.
3rd. Made 16 mils to the River des Shutes S. S. E. and camped near about 20 Lodges of Indians had to buy what little wood we used a thing I mortally detest last night about 12 sett in to snow before morning turned to rain which lasted all day the coldest I ever knew and blew a gale in our teeth this has been a miserable uncomfortable day the first part of it we assend- ed gradually until we reached a high ridge then de[s]cended suddenly to the river on the ridge considerable snow and the whole country covered with little round cones of earth denoting that the winds blow over this divide continually and strong. Grass is far as I could see pretty good.
4th. Moved cam, S. S. W. 3 miles and camped on the fork of the River coming from timbered hills to the W. N. W. We hear that the two Kanackas have been followed by the Indians and killed in revenge for killing one of them and their Horses.
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5th. Same camp trying to trade horses get none yet.
6th. Same camp
7th. Same camp
8th. Same camp
9th. Same camp During all this time traded but one Horse, but fared well enough for food as we obtained as many dogs as we could eat during the time Gully my Indian having lost his horse went out to hunt him and as I believe with a determination to quit me he found his horse and sent it to camp by an Indian with word to send his things with some trifling excuse but I kept the Horse and things the Indian whom he sent said he would go and take the Horse for which I gave him a flogging and he went off during this time we percussioned 3 Rifles our powder being so badly damaged as to render flint locks useless. In this vicinity there are Elk and Deer as we trade their meat and skins of the Inds. in small quant- ities the grass here is good and here I cashed some goods our horses being to[o] poor to carry them on.
Ioth Moved but without our guide whom I had engaged who was among the missing when we started and I suppose engaged only to get something but without intending to start We took a S. S. W course and crossed the fork on which we had camped for some days past and after mounting the small mountains which range along this fork found an extensive plain beyond which white and high rose a range of mountains disheartening to look at but ahead is the word and the spirit seems to raise with the occasion
this range runs E. & W. made this day Ir miles to the foot of the range along which is a small stream[?] here we cashed some provisions for our return route and some loads of dry goods which our horses are too weak to carry.
IIth. S. S. W. and mounted the mountains which we found much less formidable than they appeared to be the earth and trees are covered with a heavy hoar frost which at a distance made them look as if covered deep with snow of which there was but little these mountains have scattering groups of pine timber and some oak and the little plains in them have brown[?] cedars sim- ilar to those of N. E. but still of a different sort but yet the rob- ins in considerable number feed on the berries which reminded me of old pleasures and home where I have often been out to shoot these birds from the laving[?] but these are too painful to be in- dulged and the present evil is enough without calling up old joys to enhance it made this day 15 miles and camped on snow water with good pine wood day cloudy wind N. E. and cold Saw the first elk and deer sign for some time they say we cannot cross the divide to Clamat but I will go as far as I can.
12th Engaged an Indian Guide last night but he too it seems has backed out as I cannot find him this morning Made one mile down the ravine in which we camped and came to a small creek running about E. then assended the hills and after 5 mils
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came to a larger creek then 3 miles more where the trail gave out then courses S. S. W. then struck S. by E. 3 mils and crossed a small creek this and the last running E then 3 mils more and camped on a dry ravine all these last courses S. by E, grass this far pretty good and country timbered and prettily levell today with small prairies. Saw much Elk and Deer signs but killed none.
13th Made 5 miles S. by E. over level timbered with small openings country and came to a creek with very bad cut rock banks at least 400 feet high we had much difficulty in getting our horses down to the water and up the opposite bank but suc- ceeded after laming several of our horses this creek is rapid tol- erably large and runs N. E. we then made 3 miles S. by E. and camped the snow here covers the ground and the horses have to dig for their food. Saw today 12 deer and a great quan- tity of Elk and Deer sign and one bear track after camping went out to hunt but could kill nothing today the first clear day for four days the fog lifted a little and enabled us to see a range of snowy mts on the west side of us and one very high bearing S. W. distant about 25 miles should we have any considerable fall of snow now we should loose all our horses they could not sub- sist with much more than there is now all the dog meat which we have brot with us from the last Inds. is done and we have now to look to our guns to supply us or eat our horses. We have about 4 bushells of rice and flour in camp for cases of extremity and a little dog grease. Small game there is none we have but 10 lbs of powder along and that damaged Go ahead very cold for the 4 last days.
14th Made S. E. 4 miles to a very small creek running in an immense chasm into which we got and camped the grass being good and our horses having had nothing last night except what they dug up from beneath several inches of snow saw many deer today but killed none sent our hunters out after camping all but one returned empty and him I suppose has lost himself in the forests as I heard a gun late at night and returned several shots weather still quite foggy and very cold.
15th S. E. by E. 4 miles and down the ravine the snow grow- ing less and less visibly in this direction got out of the woods and saw the country bare of snow here found a lodge of Indians who have 32 Horses traded one of them and have the promise of trading two more in the morning the man missing last nigh[t] came [in] thi[s] mng.
16th. Traded the two horses one of which cost 8212 cents of beads first cost. Made E. down the ravine 2 mils then struck a good trail crossing the ravine and going off S. S. W. which I fol- lowed over rocky high land 8 mils and came to a very large creek
I should think it must be at least one-half of the River Des Shutes at least running in an immense chasm into which we de-
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[s]cended and camped in good grass and plenty of dry wood which makes us very comfortable for the night is very cold dur- ing the march over the high land saw a chain of mts on our left and the other side of the river white with snow and partly wooded.
17th. Went up the creek W. S. W. 2 miles when it turned south and we forded it at a deep ford horses suffered much from the coldness of the water then wound S. E. up the opposite bank of the river very high and precipitous 2 miles more here saw many deer killed none after attaining the heigh[t] made 8 miles S. S. W. through timber and snow then S. S. E. 4 miles also through timber saw several places where deer had been killed by the wolves which are here numerous and very large camped at a little grass the first seen today where the horses can dig up a little food.' The country ahead appears more open we have now a little rice to eat and no meat begin to look at the horses still cold.
18th. Made S. S. E. 12 miles to a small creek during this days march a snowy range of high mts. in points lay along our right and front stretching so that our course today just doubles their eastwardly termination at a place where probably a fork of the river Des Shutes passes this range runs N. E. & S. W. still farther on our left and apparently on the other side of the same river there is another range running N. by S. today saw a very great amt. of sign and deer and have concluded to stop and hunt tomorrow and rest the horses tonight a little snow squall.
19th. Same camp Went out hunting killed 2 deer and several wolves this day came to us 5 Walla Walla Inds. who are out hunting they camp with us tonight they say that the game comes down from the mts. in the winter on account of the snows which is the occasion of its being so plenty at this time one man out of camp tonight probably lost shall wait tomorrow for him if he does not come in the meantime and take another hunt for meat which is now quite a luxury.
20th. Same camp killed one deer found the lost man
21st. Made S. S. F. 15 miles toward the eastwardly termina- tion of the range of mts which has for some time been visible on our right at this point we can see no mts. but a little farther on the left they commence again apparently the same range which we have seen for some time ranging on the E. side of the river. Killed no game today but saw plenty.
221d. S. E. by E. 10 miles and struck a small creek which though very rapid was so hard frozen over that we crossed it on the ice then N. E. 1 % mil[e]s and came to a very large creek which I take to be the main river it is about as large as the other fork which we crossed on the 17th inst. country a little more broken deer plenty but killed none today a little warmer than usual.
23rd. Started up the river E. S. E. and gradually in 4 mille's
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travel rounded to a S. S. W. course and made 12 more the last 6 of which the snow increased in such a manner that tonight we find no grass for our Horses and being afraid to advance with them another days march I have determined to send them back and with 3 men I propose to build canoes and assend as far as I can and ascertain if it is possible to get the horses through and if so to send back for them and if not to ascertain if there is beaver and if so trap it if not further advance [in] this quarter is useless. Tonight set in to snow hard but soon turned to rain.
24th. Snowed and rained all last [night] and still snowing with a gale of wind from S. S. W. nearly all the horses gone astray about 12 having found all but one killed a poor Horse for food and sent the party all butt three back to find grass for the horses cut down two large pines and commenced two canoes gale all day with occasional snow and rain.
25th. Same camp gale S. S. W. Snow and rain all day a miserable Christmas worked what little we could on the canoes.
26th. Day fair and calm warm go ahead making canoes
27th. Day fair calm and warm still at the canoes
28th. day fair calm and warm still at the canoes and eating horse meat
29th. Fair weather and mild.
30th. Fair weather and mild. Sick with indigestion
3Ist. Fair weather and mild all so far South wind myself better and finished the canoes and horse meat at the same time viz; this evening at supper the men have called our two boats Black Snake & Triton.
1835 Jany Ist, Started in the morning in the canoes about 5 miles by the river'about 2% miles due south and came to a rapid in attempting to assend which got filled with water and afterward in towing with the line she broke loose and went down stream we recovered her after a long run and assended again to the rapid and it being near night camped killed today one fine fat goose warm south wind rain snow deeper as we proceed and is now about 2 feet country rough and covered with pines set 4 traps for beaver today and am in hopes to have one for breakfast.
2nd. Went to my traps found nothing then made snow shoes and set out with one man to explore the river took a due south course and in 3 or 4 miles came unexpectedly to the river there running smooth. I was happy to see it as I was entirely tired of this mode of travelling my shoes were too small and I frequently sunk into the snow and [it] bothered me much to get out again sometimes I would tread on my shoes and fall down and on the whole I though[t] I could get along better without them returned to camp killed three ducks for four of us small allowance with our men took our boat up to the rapids and spent the residue of the day in getting our canoe past the rapid most of the time up to my middle in this cold water had to make
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a portage at last of about 14 of a mile the river here makes a detour to the E. and around S to west to the place where we take our things across.
3rd. Raised my traps and found one beaver caught the large- est I ever saw I think he weighed 65 lbs. and killed one duck a very seasonable supply of food the residue of the day finished making the portage and sett 8 traps the other Boat also got set- ting above Snow today and rained hard last night nearly all night. Wind Strong N. W. the first wind beside S. since 10 days.
4th. Found but one beaver in our traps took a jaunt up the river at about 6 miles straight line S. the river forks into two apparently equal streams followed the left one about 2 mils S. by E. and returned to camp tired enough having found only sign enough in this distance to set 3 traps the river winds so that we have to paddle twice the real distance rained and snowed some during the day. Saw for the first time on this route swans they appear plenty here country still timbered but much more level.
5th. Caught 3 Beaver rained and snowed hard all last night and part of today raised camp and camped about 2 miles below the forks mentioned yesterday one of the beaver caught today would weigh I should think 70 lbs. and our fries look finely with sundry roasting sticks around full of meat the beaver are fat and we live finely again. Wind strong and south.
6th Rained all the forenoon and hail and snow all the after- noon caught no beaver saw very little sign heard a rapid or fall ahead killed 2 swans so fat that we could not eat all the grease a rare thing in this country to be troubled with fat Seems good to live well after poor horse meat and short supply Shall lay down the course tomorrow when I get it more accurately
today being too thick to see and the river more winding than ever timber less plenty and very small and but little of the large kind of pine country as far as we can see very level with here and there a round conical mountain.
7th Started up the river to sett traps found sign for but one and returned to camp at the same place as last night killed one swan which would weigh I should think 35 lbs. too fat to eat
one we eat yesterday yielded nearly 2 qts. of oil more than we could eat with it. These birds are delicious it is strange that one only does two of us two meals that is to say a day. They dont eat so in the states day pretty cold wind S. W. strong little snow todav and some sun out the bed of the river is a sott white stone or hard clay the same as found on the Clacamas I think it is of the chalk formation.
8th Remained all day at same camp on account of a severe snow storm it snowed all day and fell about one foot Blew strong from the South which is almost constant wind here.
9th went down the river and raised some traps we had set there and returned to same camp The river from the last place[ to]
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which I brought it runs S. E. I mile at which point a fork com- ing from the Eastward but it was frozen up so we could not as- send it then south 5 miles to this camp.
Ioth Snowed and rained all last night hard and today so we are blessed with about 8 inches of slush makes every thing very uncomfortable did not move camp.
Irth. Last night grew cold and set in for a hard snow storm with a gale of wind from the W. S. W. which continued without intermission until sunset today so we did not move camp the cracking of the falling trees and the howling of the blast was more grand than comfortable it makes two individuals feel their in- significance in the creation to be seated under a blankett with a fire in front and 3 1/2 feet of snow about them and more coming and no telling when it will stop. tonight tis calm and nearly full moon it seems to shine with as much indifference as the storms blow and w[h]ether for weal or woe, we two poor wretches seem to be little considered in the matter. The thoughts that have run through my brain while I have been lying here in the snow would fill a volume and of such matter as was never put into one, my in- fancy, my youth, and its friends and faults, my manhoods troubl- ed stream, its vagaries, its aloes mixed with the gall of bitterness and its results viz under a blankett hundreds perhaps thousands of miles from a friend, the Blast howling about, and smothered in snow, poor, in debt, doing nothing to get out of it, despised for a visionary, nearly naked, but there is one good thing plenty to eat health and heart.
12th. Started up stream and made S. 6 miles at which point there is a considerable creek coming in from W. S. W. water as warm as the main river and not frozen up. Then 3 miles S. S. E. and camped. Saw but little beaver sign today river not very rapid but winding saw only two swans could not kill them caught one yearling beaver spit snow all day at night set in to snow hard moderately cold wind S. but moderate.
13th 6 miles W. hy N. creek very winding and more rapid than usual and camped just below a severe rapid fine sun in the forenoon but cloudy and snow spits in the afternoon and this evening.
14th Snowed about 4 inches last night. Today pretty cold passed the rapid on the south side of the south channel there be- ing a small island at this place just above the island there is a raft of drift timber which extends across the whole river this we made a portage of for about 6 rods at the rapid I hauled the canoe wading in the water about waste deep and remaining in it about 3 hours and got quite numb but at last got through with it
we then assended the river 3 miles more in good water but very winding S. W. to make which I think we paddled 8 miles to another rapid not severe finding that it would take some time and being obliged to return to camp soon concluded not to pass
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this rapid and returned to the first rapid and set 6 traps day windy from S. W. and some snow and sunshine.
15th. Last night excessively cold the cracking of the trees kept me awake part of the night and night before I was kept up most of the night by a fever arising from indigestion today cold calm and clear as the sun got high it was extremely pleas- ant and this is the only day I have seen that would pass for a pleasant one in a good climate this winter went to the traps found nothing decended the rapid after another cold job in the water and returned to our camp of the 13th inst on the way down saw 5 swan the first since the 12th but killed nothing but 3 ducks Weare getting short of provisions again at evening very cold again.
16th Started down the stream and made the portage of the falls about one hour after sunset last night the ther. must have been 10 below zero and the river scum over with drift ice which made us make haste for if we should get frozen up here it would be hard times for food the water fowl and beaver would be done and other game there is absolutely none and to travel would be almost impossible. there is four feet of snow however we could try snow shoes. Killed 4 ducks and one swan today the latter would weigh at least 45 lbs. a very seasonable supply as all our food gave out this morning. Day calm sunny not very cold tonight strong south wind and rain.
17th Moved camp down stream about a mile and found our other boat with Mr. Richardson & Rob[in]son the latter during the severe cold had frozen his toes and fingers and the former was unwell with a numbness in his hips they reported to me that the beaver on this creek had made them sick probably this was what was the matter with me there is plenty of wild parsnip here they raised camp with us and we stopped the canoes where we built them and made a portage of 14 of a mile this severe work in deep snow we then decended about 3 miles and came to rapids part of which we let our boats over by the line in about 1/2 mile more came to worse rapids and made a portage of about Ig mile then immediately let the boats down further rapids about 100 rods to do which I had to remain in the water the whole time it was after dark when I got through the other boat got nearly through and gave it up and I suppose have camped with- out fire or food. The river falls at each of these carrying places at least 50 feet Rained most all day.
18th. Went up above the last rapid to see the other boat found them comfortably camped they made a portage of their things and I attempted to run their boat empty just as I took the Shute the bow struck a rock I did not see she swung round filled at once and commenced whirling over like a top I hung to her and passed without further damage than mashing both of my feet severely between the boat and a rock was in much pain
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all this day but not very lame we run by the river about two miles and passed some bad rapids then made a portage of about a 1/4 mile into a slew of the river which we followed about 14 mile further then were forced to make a bad portage up a steep bank of lava about 100 feet this portage about 14 mile we then ran about two miles further and camped snow here not so deep as above and apparently diminishing fast men much tired and dis- couraged and wish to abandon the canoes which I do not l'mean to do until I am obliged to cashed at the first portage today; 22 traps good weather today.
19th. Started down stream and ran a continuous rapid for about 2 miles we let our boats down about 44 mile then crossed the river and let the boats down a few rods and finding the river was pretty much all rapids and falls concluded to abandon the boats cashed all but our blankets books amunition axe and ket- tles and took it on foot with about 60 lbs each on our backs and r foot of hard snow into which we sank sometimes and sometimes not it however diminished as we proceeded we made about 6 miles and saw plenty of deer and camped killed one which was just in time as a little piece of swan was all the meat left in camp.
I am very tired [and ] hungry but the deer will cure all this there is little snow at this place cur camp I think can not be far off on the other side of the river I can see a grassy plain of about 30 miles long and about 5 wide bare of snow snowed a little this morning day fine tonight freezing a little.
20th Started late sore footed but with a full belly and an ad- dition of about 20 lbs meat each we made about 6 miles and pass- ed our camp of the 22nd and 23rd ult. about i mile further we crossed a small fork the one we before crossed on the ice then S. 2 miles and camped and tried hard for a deer but could not get one altho we saw a great many day fine this evening cool grass not much covered with snow see no sign of camp yet.
2Ist. Made 2 miles N. to the river and camped took a turn down the river about 5 miles to look for some sign of our camp
found a little Indian sign of about the same age but nothing of our people. Afternoon went out to a high hill to the W. and made a large pile of brush and after dark set fire to it in order that if our people are rear that they may see it and come to us
sent a man over the river to look but he could not cross but he saw one of their camps shall go tomorrow and ascertain if it so killed nothing today so we shall have no breakfast in the morning day fine tolerable cool : inch of snow last night which went off today.
2211d. Snowed part of last night and rained the residue and the forenoon of today snow the rest and part of the night in morning our hunter went out and wounded a deer which the wolves ran down but before he could find him they had eaten up all but enough for 2 meals this morning breakfasted on two bear-
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er tails which I had laid by and forgotten so we have not yet on this trip lost a meal as yet myself in the morning made a raft and endeavored to cross the river but found I had selected a bad place and could not do it went above found a better place made another raft and succeeded found one of our camps so we now have some clew to camp and shall push for it after getting a small supply of meat beforehand wind strong southwardly camp- ed this night in a cave of the rocks one mile S. of last nights camp.
23rd Moved down to camp of 22nd inst and went out to hunt
killed nothing myself but Mr Richardson killed a fawn so we have 2 meals ahead besides two nights supper Mr R. is sick of a bad cold in his chest and some biles on his neck and cannot carry his pack Rained steady all day.
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