USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 31
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12th Moved 3 miles up the creek S. W. at which place the · creek divides into about equal parts the one going south I took by the advice of one who said he had passed before followed this up one mile and a branch going E. 3 farther another E. 4 miles farther looked so bad camped took a horse to explore the route 1/2 mile above camp the stream branches the right at small distance heads in an amphitheater of inaccessible mountains followed the left 4 miles S. by E. and this also heads in an amphi- theater. We drove 2 Bulls before us which we killed they being unable to pass. I climbed up the clefts an[d] in passing over the snow had liked to have been killed in the following manner pas- sing over some snow and on which the water was running and be- ing afraid of caving in I missed my foothold in a slippery place and went gradually sliding down to a precipice but succeeded at last in averting my progress to destruction by catching the only stone which projected above the icy snow I however reached the summit and looked into another defile running E. like the one I came up. Got to the bottom again and found one of our two mules gone and being in want of meat packed the other with part of one of the Bulls and walked barefoot to camp during the night through an infernal rough rocky prickly Bruisy swampy woody hole.
13th. Moved down creek back to the commencement of the South Fork then took the other about S. W. by W. at two miles up a creek from the N. forming about half of the stream then three miles farther where the rest divides into two parts very small
passed the mountain in a south course between these last forks up a gentle fine trail and not more than I mile to the top then down by a very steep bad trail. South still along a branch of Malad 5 miles to tolerable grass and camped this last part of the route about the worst road that I ever passed.
14th. After shoeing some horses that were lamed yesterday started and made 9 miles S. S. W. at 2 of which got a small creek from the N. E. at the end of the 9 miles got a fork of about equal size to the one I came down from the S. W. then made S. F. by S. 10 miles and camped got a creek from the N.
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E. at 2 miles of it and at 7 one from the S. W. Saw no game today the dusky grouse plenty for three days past. Horses much knocked up with sore feet.
15th. After crossing the stream passed up a ravine S. W. to its head then crossed some low grassy hills and at 12 miles cross- ed a small creek going S. E. this creek forks at this place then at two miles in all 14 miles S. W. crossed another which we follow- ed two miles S. S. E. then left it on our left and cut a pretty high hill 4 miles S. S. W. and came down to the plain of Snake River then 3 miles W. to a creek with a fine bottom but no water except what remains in little pools, but excellent grass here found two lodges of Snake Indians.
16th. Made 28 miles W. following the main trail which is good perfectly level and distinct except in one place where it crosses several small branches which in the spring I presume are miry which occasions the traveller to go in no particular place during this days march I observed some low hills on the South side of us which gradually approach and at this camp are about 8 miles distant between us and them a little river appears to run to the W. which I am in hopes is Reeds other wise called Big Woody. Today the travelling was fine and many little streams of water cross the trail at this camp which is on a very small thread there commence small irregularities just enough to note the place.
17th. Made 20 miles due West over a country with easy Hills good and distinct trail and often water in very little streams. Country mostly burnt out by the Indians who have passed here lately going up to Buffaloe. Killed some dusky grouse and dug some kamas which assisted our living a little also found some choke cherries and saw one Indian at a distance on Horse back who fled.
18th. Made over a hilly country 12 miles W. until we passed a high stony hill then bending N. W. made 10 miles more over a stony Hilly but distinct trail with not much water saw a track of a Bull made this morning altho there is very little old signs in this section. Camped on a nearly dry creek running W. today lost 2 Horses.
19th. Left the little run on which we camped last night going here N. N. W. on our right and put out as near as I could judge W. ro miles the first three over a divide of high steep hills then taking a little run followed it out of the worst hills along this run were many little Indian camps we then left it and went W. N. W. 15 miles and struck Woody River in cut rocks at about 7 miles of this last course struck the run on which we camped last night at Woody we saw plenty of Salmon but had no means of catching any of them this day found a colt in the Rush probably left by the Indians on which I mean to Breakfast tomor- row morning being short of provant.
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20th. Followed the river down W. by N. 22 miles in the course of the day traded of some Inds. enough salmon for a Lunch and consumed the remaining provisions.
21st. No Breakfast. Feel very much purified [?] in the flesh. 12 miles down the creek W. at noon found Indians of whom we traded enough Salmon with a dead one we picked up in the brook and a few birds for a dinner afterwards traded 2 Bal[e]s Salmon of the Inds.
22nd. Made 5 miles W. then the trail cut a point of higher ground of about 2 miles and again struck the river and crossed it made on the other side 7 miles W. in all this day 15 miles W.
23rd. Made West 9 miles and found a small village of Snakes of whom we could only trade a very few salmon then 5 more in all 14 miles along the Big Wood W. and arrived at Snake Riv- er which we forded by wetting our packs a little here we found a few lodges of very impudent Pawnacks of whom we traded a half Bale of Salmon afterward 4 miles N. along the W. side of Snake River and camped near a few lodges of Inds.
24th. 6 miles N. then made a cut off N. N. W. 4 miles to R. Malheur where we found but three or four Indians and consequ- ently got but little Salmon and consequently may starve a little between this and Walla Walla afternoon 7 miles N. passing not far from the River. I had forgot to note that our Big Wood Riv- er the Indians attempted to steal some of our horses but the horse guards discovered them and they failed. Scorpions are here quite common two nights since I was just about laying down when on my Blkt I saw something move I folded it in the Blkt. and on carrying it to the fire found it to be a very good sized scorpion. This day at noon parted from Richardson and 8 men to go up Malheur and other creeks to trap there is something melancholy in parting with men with whom one has travelled so far in this uncertain country. Our party is now 17 boys Indians literati and all.
25th. This days march was in many different courses but I. average them at 23 miles N. W. and camped just before where the trail finally leaves the Snake river and at the same camp where I overtook two years since my men who without orders were leav- ing the country while I was up Malheur trapping. Traded this day about 70 salmon which makes a tolerable supply of provisions for the cut to Walla Walla.
26th. Made about 20 miles in about a N. W. direction up Brule Last night lost two Horses which I think were stolen and today two more gave out. I now think of leaving two men be- hind to bring up some of the worst animals otherwise I fear I shall Loose many of them.
27th. After leaving Sunsbury and Briggs to bring up the worn out horses I left and making a cut off to the right going up a ravine across another and down a third came again upon Brule,
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at the open Prairie and camped for noon at the upper end of it on a little run and cashed 24 bars lead and 18 Traps general course N. W. 14 miles afternoon 9 miles N. W. W. following the little creek up and camped on a little prairie near the head of it of about 20 acres here there is two trails one N. W. the other N. the N. W. one I shall try.
28th. Here taking the left hand trail we followed it 12 miles N. W. when it disappeared I then took a N. course and at 8 miles came on Powder River which we followed down about 5 miles and camped this afternoon I shall go out to see where the trail crosses the river. This day killed an antelope and a Fawn and saw fresh Elk Track.
29th. Turned up the creek again and after arriving at where we first struck the river made 6 miles W. by N. then into cut rocks then W. N. W. 4 miles more and Nooned on a little water in a ravine during the forenoon two men whom I had left behind with the poor animals brough[t] up all but two also during the forenoon two men got lost and our hunter got lost yesterday all missing tonight. Afternoon made 8 miles N. W. and camped in cut rocks on the main river at a place apparently not frequented either by Indians or whites but there are Salmon here but we have no means of catching any without waiting toolong. I think by the looks there are Beaver here but will ascertain in the morn- ing in order that my trip here may not be entirely lost.
30th. Made 8 miles up the creek through Cut Rocks during which time killed one Salmon and Two Otter so much provisions and Nooned on the Walla Walla trail West Fork the East being the one I descended on my first Tour afternoon made N. N. W. on the Trail. Here plain and good 15 miles at 5 of which crossed another Fork of Powder River but dry at 5 more a little water and at camp a little and but a little country rolling and soil good. At our camp two lodges of Kiuses
3Ist. Made 15 miles N. N. W. good soil and not very hilly and nooned at the Grand Ronde where I found some Kiuse Indi- ans, Capt Bonneville and two of Mckays men and learned that Capt. Stewart and Mr. Lee passed two days before. Afternoon took the Walla Walla Trail N. N. W. 12 miles and camped at a very small Prairie with a little stream going N. W. Killed 5 Hens today. On allowance still.
I Sept. After about 5 miles de[s]cended a very bad mountain and followed a dry creek then assended another bad mountain and nooned with out water at 8 miles of very bad going after- noon making along a ridge of mountain 16 miles arrived at the Ottilla[?] the trail plain the ground stony about N. W. course but indirect so far from the Three Butes every day has been thick smoke like fog enveloping the whole country last night we camped at 10 ock having found no water and the whole coun-
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try burnt as black as my Hat affording as poor a prospect for a poor sett of Horses as need be.
2nd. Left camp behind and proceed across the Utalla River to the N. and up a mountain then took a slight ravine going N. W. and crossing several trails until the ravine leads to a dry willowed creek going N. E with a little water in puddles then N. W. up a ravine to the height of land which is a gentle slope then leaving the trail and going a few Hundred yards to the left followed a Dry ravine to the Walla Walla River 22 miles in all N. W. then down the Walla Walla W. by N. 10 miles to Fort Walla Walla where I found Mr. Pambrum who did the honors of the Fort in his usual bandsome stile also found Capt. Stewartand Mess Lees who arrived two days since. Mr. Mickay for some reason remain- ed in the mountains.
3rd. Remained at Walla Walla this day and made arrange- ments for going down at night Capt Thing and the residue of the party came up.
4th. In morning left Walla Walla in a boat hired by Capt. Stewart after proceeding 4 miles obliged to come to land to tight- en the canoe.
5 6 7th. Down the river and landed to Hire canoes at the Dalles for the party still behind.
8th. Waiting at the Dalles for party.
9th. Waiting at same place party arrived at night with news that they drowned one Horse and the Jackass in crossing the River I valued him more than 1o horses as a breeder.
roth At noon having with Difficulty hired three canoes start- ed down the river with three Indians on board. Wind high and soon increased to a gale swamped one of the canoes which fright- ed the Indians back. Obliged to lay by with two of the canoes behind.
IIth. Walked back and brot up the two canoes. Gale still furious and finding that my people were not good boatsmen enough to follow me left the two boats in charge of Capt. Thing and at noon put ahead made about ro miles and swamped the canoe.
12th. Gale still violent and canoe so leaky as to require one man to Bail the whole time kept on until noon and camped un- til night when it calmed and we put ahead aud made to the Cas- cades the roar of which warned me to camp. Here overtook Capt. Stewart.
13th. Made our boat a little tighter with some pitch obtained of Capt. Stewart and made the portage of the Cascade carrying our things about I mile and letting our boat down with ropes raining hard made til 9 ock. at night when it rained so hard that that with the leakage we could keep the boat free of water no longer and put ashore.
14th. At 2 ock in morning cleared up a little and we put on but it kept drizzling at 9 ock. made the Saw mill above the Fort
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and got some breakfast not having eaten since noon the day be- fore at 12 ock arrived at Fort Vancouver where I found Doct. McLaughlin in charge who received us in his usual manner he he has here power and uses it as a man should to make those about him and those who come in contact with him comfortable and happy.
15th. Early in the morning having hired another canoe put ahead and in a rainy day at about 12 ock. met the Bg May Dacre in full sail up the River boarded her and found all well she had put into Valparaiso having been struck by Lightning and much damaged. Capt Lambert was well and brot me 20 Sandwich Is- landers and 2 Coopers 2 Smiths and a Clerk.
16th. Kept on up the river in order to make Fort Vancouver and pay my respects to Doct. McLaughlin but the wind failed and we could not.
17th. Took the gig and went up to Tea Prairie to see about a location but found none.
18th. Came on board and put down the river for Oak point where we mean to examine for a location.
19th. Came too at Carneans[?] house and concluded to remain at least for the winter.
20th. After setting the forges at work and commencing a coal kiln houses etc, started up the river Wallammut in a gig the gig followed the Wallammut i mile then took a creek to the right and after 5 miles came to the farm of Mr. Thomas Mckay. where I was treated with great kindness by LaBonte his foreman and of him procured horses and proce[e]ded by land until near night over hilly wooded country near night came out into large plains of good lands surrounded with good timber some oak and overtook Mess. Lees who had started the day before me and camped with them they are in search of a location.
2Ist. Put out in the morning days travell through good lands rolling sufficient and assorted timber and water. At 3 ock. came to [and] crossed the Wallamut at Duportes" House and from him got fresh Horses and proceed up on the E. side of the river to Jervais ro miles.
2211d. Not suiting myself as to a farm returned to Duportes and went to look at a prairie about 3 miles below his place and concluded to occupy it it is about 15 miles long , wide surrounded with fine timber and a good mill stream on it. 22d Laid out a farm afternoon took a canoe and de[s]cended as far as falls.
23rd. Made the portage of the falls and was taken violently sick of vomiting and purging probably caused by having eaten some Lamprey Fels recovered toward night and arrived at Fort Vancouver and finished an arrangement in regard to trade.
24tl. Went down the river to the vessel.
# This name is given as "Dupattys" on the map.
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25th. Making preparation for sending out parties 26th. Do & sent off Sunsbury to trade Horses at the Dalles. Sent Stout up the Wallammut with 2 men and im- plements to commence farm and started myself up to Vancouver on buisness.
28th. Up the Wallamut with Mr. Nuttall and Townsend and Mr Stout.
29th. Going up to the falls and went a small distance up the Clackamas River to look at a spot there found it would not. do. Saw there a chalk formation
30th. Returning down the rivers.
31st. At night reached the vessell at Carneans from this time until the 13th Oct. making preparation for a campaign into the Snake country and arrived on the 13th at Vancouver and was re- ceived with great attention by all there
14th. Made up the river 12 miles
15th.
" River 11 miles
16th. " " River 13 miles to the Cascades.
17, 18, 19 Delayed by strong winds and making portage on the last day at night sent a division off under charge of Capt. Thing
20, 21, 22nd. Same camp with nothing to eat but what we catch out of the river with our lines not liking to broach our stores for the voyage
23rd. At sundown our boats arrived from above and I im- mediately started up the river we pulled all night except stop- ping to cook at midnight
24th. After taking breakfast and giving the Kanackas two hours sleep we put up the river with a head wind day raw and chill
25th. Arrived at noon at the Dalles and found all the people well and but one horse traded
26th. Started Capt. Thing with 12 Kanackas and 6 white; and all the best Horses
27th. Remained at same camp and traded 5 Horses at about $5.00 of goods each
28th. Started the boats back and Hubbard down by land with 13 horses for the farm
29th. & 30th, Same camp traded 4 Horses.
31st. Started up the river Kanackas on foot for want of Horses and goods on miserably poor animals To the 7th Nov. moving slowly up the river during which time and before traded 18 Horses and 600 lbs dried Salmon which I have reserved for provisions af- ter we leave the river when I know we shall get none and hav- ing hired a canoe tor Walla Walla dispatched her with this salmon
2 loads of traps one woman one Indian and two whites she sank once but we recovered all and suffered one days delay only to dry the fish we have lived chiefly on trash and dogs fearing
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to commence our stock of provisions expecting to get little or nothing all winter and I do not mean to starve except when I cant help it.
Sth. Traded one Horse a few drops rain today and for more than two thirds of the days since the Ist of the month. Kept along the river traded 8 dogs today being a 2 days rations.
9th. Moved along the River Traded I dog but no Horses.
roth. Left camp and went into Walla Walla found Mr. Pam- brum well and good natured, and got the news that Capt. Things 12 Kanac[k]as had deserted him and that he had gone in search of them on their trail.
IIth. Went to Capt. Things camp and learned from Mr Baker that the Kanackas had taken about 2 bales of goods and 12 horses Returned to Walla Walla on the way met the men who went with Capt. Thing they had not been successfull dispatched an interpreter Mr. Richardson and two other men down the River in a canoe to head the fellows.
12th. Moved camp up the river a small piece for grass having crossed yesterday no success in trading horses today the Indians ap- pear to think their fortunes are to be made by an opposition but they will find their mistake today got word that the Kanackas had not touched the Columbia nor passed the Utalla River and that Richardson had got a party of Indians to accompany him and horses and had taken up pursuit on land.
13th. Richardson stil[1] out At night dispatched 4 men after two Kanackas that have been seen by the Indians about 15 miles below Walla Walla on the main river.
14th. Robinson and Richardsons party returned with no suc- cess Robinson had seen the track of shod Horses within 5 miles of Walla Walla
15th. At to [o]ck this morning dispatched Richardson and Rob- inson with two men to trace out the track seen by Robinson.
16th. An Indian brot in one shod Horse which had been taken by the Kanackas he found it at the Utalla River and brot word that there saw two of the scamps had bot a canoe and gone down leaving on [no?] horse except fat which they [the Indians?] took and one alive which he brot in
17th. Robinson & Richardson Returned no news yet of the rest
ISth. Finding there is no immediate hope of getting the Kan- ackas I today dispatched Capt Thing to Fort Hall having 19[?] men viz 4 Kanackas ro white men and himself a fur[?] man and three Nez Perces 19 in all. This is a picked up lot and I have great fears they will commit Robbery and desertion to a greater extent than the Kanackas have done but I was obliged to trust to the chance it is late and the Blue Mounts. are now covered white with snow altho the grass is green here within 30 miles of them.
19th. Went up the Walla Walla River about 7 milfejs and
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raised a deposit of goods which I had made in the ground there fearing that some of Capt. Things men who knew where it was might desert and raise it and attempt to go to the Spanish Coun- try. I am now quite sick with a fever but must keep doing.
20th. Spent the day arranging packs for a move Weather clear and cold with much hoar frost and mist.
2Ist. Deposited the spare goods on hand at Walla Walla fort 22nd. Finished arranging for moving and [have] given up all the Horses still missing viz. 2.
23rd. Moved down the Walla Walla River and camped on the Columbia about 6 miles below the Walla Walla taking leave on the way of Mr. Pambrun the gentleman in charge of the fort Still not well.
24. Moved about 15 miles down the Columbia and camped without wood night quite cold near some bad rapids just above the mouth of the Utalla where I have a cash of traps which I in- tend to raise.
25. Moved about 15 mil[e]s down the river and camped I had forgot to mention that on the 23rd in the morning when I was about loading the horses I found that Ira Long a sick and as we have supposed crazy Kanacka was missing I then thought that he wou[1]d go at once to Walla Walla but do not hear of him yet I am at a stand to make up my mind w[h]ether he went out of camp and died suddenly or drowned in the river or ran off what he should run off for no one can conceive as no duty had been required of him and he had tea and other luxurys given him on acct. of sick- ness that no one else had it is a very strange affair to me. To- day I hear that one of the two Kanackas who went down the river in a canoe as per former report has been killed for killing horses by the Indians other reports say a Kanacka has killed an Indian. I also hear that 6 of the runaways are on the heads of John Days River the whole of which storys I take to be lies invented to tell me in the hopes of a small present of tobacco. We live on dogs chiefly good luck traded 4 today.
26th. Made about 12 mils down the river and during the day traded a young fat dog. 27th. Moved about 1 mils down the river traded one poor little dog and 4 dried salmon. We hear such contardictory and impossible accounts from the Indians of the Kanackes that I do not know what to believe.
28th. Moved down the River 15 miles traded nothing all day providentially killed one goose which made supper and break- fast for 5 of us. Snowed a little this day and of course not much comfort for a little cold and wet spoils all the comfort of our camps.
29th. 16 mils down the river killed nothing traded 2 dogs and some little deer meat dried. Snowed all the first part of the day and uncomfortably cold rains tonight very uncomfortable some of us have no coats[?] [tents?] men grumble.
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30th. The rain of last night changed to snow and this morn- ing the Earth is white and the weather cold made 12 miles and crossed John Days River then 3 more along the main River and camped with nothing but grass to cook our supper.
31st. Made today 12 miles the last of yesterdays and some of todays march pretty bad travelling for the horses owing to cut rocks camped one mile up the river of falls called by the French "Revieu des Shutes["]. I do not know if from the numerous rapids of this river or its proximity to the great falls of the Col- umbia which are about 3 miles below its mouth. There is here a a small villeage of Inds. from whom I understand by signs that the two Kanackes who de[s]cended the river stole horses here or killed Horses and in some wrangle with the chief concerning it one of the Kanackas shot him. I shall be sorry if this is true as in such case I shall be obliged to make a signal example of him both in order to quiet the Indians and prevent their rising upon the whites and as a terror to the other Kanackas.
Dec. Ist After trading 4 dogs and a few salmon and roots and ascertained that there was no ford above or near us and that the road lay on the River we moved camp down to the mouth and and crossed at a rapid and tolerable deep ford then assended the hill by a ravine and descending again struck a good sized Beaver Creek at 6 miles due South while on the divide could see far ahead of a dreary snowy exposed country without a stick of tim- der to relieve the eye except far in the distarce a black looking mass like a cloud of pine timber.
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