USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 23
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9th I date this the same* on acc of a mistake of a day her[e]- tofore made 30 miles and yesterday 25 arrived at the Chimney or Elk Brick the Indian name this singular object looks like a monument about 200 feet high and is composed of layers of sand and lime stone in layers the sand blowing out lets the lime rock fall down and this action has in time reduced what was once a
'Same" here seems to mean "as I do".
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hill to a spire of nearly the same dimensions at top and bottom it looks like a work of art and the layers like the ranges of stone it is scituated about 3 miles from the river. Rain and thunder at night wind strong S. E. river as muddy as ever the bluf[f]s for the last 20 miles have occasionally a few stinted trees apparently Pitch pine and cedar the small streams that here empty into the Platte are frequently dry near the river during the day while above they are running free while at night there is running water entirely to the river Party in better order Horses about the same we now judge ourselves within 4 days march of the Black Hills
Ioth. 28 miles, 2 Buffaloe
IIth 30 miles, 6 Buffaloe
12th Nothing remarkeable crossed Wild Horse Creek coming in from the S.
13th Came in sight of the Black hills and crossed Larrimee fork of the Platte in getting over one of my rafts broke the tow line . the raft went down stream lodged on a snag and upset wetting most of the goods on it and loosing two Horse loads as it lodged in the middle of the river and the stream [being] very rappid the goods were with difficulty passed ashore here an alarm was occasioned by the appearance of 4 men on the bluf[f]s behind us and an attack was expected every moment which would have been bad as our party was much scattered in crossing They However proved to be a part of a party of 19 men in the em- ploy of Gant & Blackwell. They last winter lost all but 3 of their animals and in going to Sante Fee got enclosed by snow in the mountains and nearly starved to Death, and at first they were hard to tell from Indians or devils they are now in good health · having felt well for some time all of them joined Mr. Fitzpatricks party and proceeded on foot with us to the mountains. Killed an antelope
14th started late and left the river at which we had en- camped and proceeded 16 miles killed one antelope and one elk
15th went out for game killed one antelope, 2 deer 2 Buff-
aloe made this day 20 miles and passed the first of the Black hills the country is now thinly wooded with Box Elder ash Pitch pine cedar and cotton wood and a variety of small shrubs among which are the cherry, currant and thorn wild sage here almost covers the country and is a plant of many years gro[w]th
arrived at camp found the company had killed plenty of Buffaloe and were encamped on a small stream coming in from the S. 20 miles.
16th Warm in mng. cold and rainy in the afternoon a little hard snow on the Peak of the Black hills a white Bear was seen this day Black ones for some days past. The lime rock still con- tinues primitive peb[b]les in the streams and on the knols the
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hills pointed up very sharp from the same cause as the Chimney
the country appears desolate and dreary in the extreme no one can conceive of the utter desolation of this region nevertheless the earth is decorated with a variety of beautifull fiowers and all unknown to me hard travelling disenables our botanist to exam- ine them we have on the whole meat enough but the supply is too unsteady. There are here two kinds of Rabbits the largest weighing about 15 lbs ears 6 inches long plover and other marsh birds a[re] common and some 2 or 3 kinds of Gulls. Struck the Platte river again here about 100 yds wide the water high and rapid we here find a small kind of Parsnip the blossom yellow root about 5 inches long 1/2 inch thick of more than one years gro[w]th the men appear better Horses about the same made this day 20 miles
17th Wind high N. W. Ther 40 a drear and cheerless day made 25 miles killed 3 Buffaloe I antelope I Deer crossed 2 small streams from the Black hills running into the Platte saw some rabbits & white bears Hops.
18 reached the place for fording the platte
19th Passed over my goods during a severe wind without ac- cident
20th Mr Subblettee passed over his goods and at night mooved on about 3 miles
2Ist Made a long march of 30 miles during which one of my Horses gave out killed this day 3 Buffaloe and fired at a white bear arrived at camp at HI ock at night. I have ommitted one day on the other side of the Platte I date this right we ar- rived at Rock Independence at noon after a march of 15 miles
23% Yesterday we left the Platte and struck the Sweet water on which this rock stands it is scituated in a gorge within 30 feet . of the stream and is granite today is warm last night frost and the two last days cold and disagreable from this time to 2nd July frost each night and snow once our course lay in various direc - tions from S. W. to N. W. following the Sweet water and leaving the first snowy mountains on the right hand on the 29th we crossed on to the head waters of the Colorado during all this time we found abundance of Buffaloe the travelling good but the grass poor the streams all fordable but rapid five streams have been crossed to this time and we are now encamped on the 6th all running into the Colorado trout are found here also some beav- er Some of my men talk of turning back and I give them all free liberty many of my horses have given out and the rest are failing fast and unless we soon come to better grass they will all die and leave me on foot the waters running into Lewis river
"The "23" is placed a little above and to the left of the word "left".
From the 21st on the journal was evidently not written up until the even- ing of July 2nd.
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are not more than 8 miles distant, on the creek where we are there are pine trees in shape lik[e] a Balsam tree leaves like a pitch pine Bark rough yellowish and scaly The mountains in this region are not conspicuous are isolated and admitting free passage between them in any direction the creeks are sufficiently numerous for watering but feed is poor the Ist [of] July we rested all the afternoon a respite quite acceptable to our weary legs Our average during these days about 20 miles but in some cases quite circuitous White bears are seen but none have been killed. Wolves and antelopes plenty, King fishers Our hunters have just brought part of + Buffaloe At night encamped on the same creek that we passed this mng. and soon after were visited by 6 men from Dripps & Fontenelles concern who with 13 others are encamped 5 miles from this place. This night at about 12 ock. we were attacked by Indians probably the Blackfoot. They ap- proached within 50 yds. and fired about 40 shots into the camp and some arrows they wounded three animals got 5 from Mr. Sub- blette One from an Independent hunter and 4 which I left out of camp for better feed mine were all poor and sore backed and useless
3rd Decamped and in company with the men above men- tioned proceeded to their camp and passed on to our route which lay W. This night encamped on the waters of the Colorado 25 miles
4th Decamped and at noon crossed the divide and drank to my friends with mingled feelings from the waters of the Columbia mixed with alcohol and eat of a Buffaloe cow made this day 30 miles and 25 yesterday The snow clad mountains now entirely surround us the streams this side increase rapidly. One bear seen this day the grass much better and some fertile land here the earth in some places was frozen snow yesterday and today. Three of my men are sick and I have no spare animals for them.
5th We passed along a wooded River and through a very dif- ficult road by its side so steep that one of my Horses loosing his foothold in the path was rooled down about 100 feet into the river he was recovered but so much injured as we had to leave him shortly after. Made this day 20 miles
6th We marched early and at 2 ock stop[p]ed on Lewis river and within 20 miles of the Trois Tetons three very conspicuous snow covered mountains visible in all this region this river here runs nearly S. and is divided over a bottom about 2 miles and in- to 8 streams very rapid and difficult these we forded which cou- sumed the time until night and encamped after making 18 miles on the W. bank with no grass. in the morning of the 7th we proceed[ed] up a small brook coming from a gap of the mountains due south of the Trois Tetons and passed the range of mountains of this range without much difficulty it is a good pass for such a range and fresh animals would have no difficulty in passing
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through it On the highest point we had snow accompanied with heavy thunder and being out of meat fed upon the inner bark of the Balsam trees a tree similar if not the same with the Eastern Balsam[?] At Night we encamped at the foot of the pass on the western side and at the commencement of a large valley with sev- eral streams running through it into Lewis River surrounded with high and snow clad mountains The weather is here warm in the day time but frost every night the grass is good the land ordinary. On the 8th we proceed[ed] into the plain and after a march of 10 miles arrived at the rendesvous of the hunters of this region here we found about 120 Lodges of the Nez Perces and about 80 of the Flatheads a company of trappers of about 90 under Mr. Dripps of the firm of Dripps & Fontenelle connected with the American Fur Co. Many independent Hunters and about 100 men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Co under Mess Mil- ton Sublette and Mr Frapp. I remained at this encampment un- til the 17th during which time all my men but II left me to these I gave such articles as I could spare from the neces[s]ities of my own Party and let them go. While here I obtained 18 Horses in exchange for those which were worn out and for a few toys such as Beads Bells red and Blue cloth, Powder and Balls fish hooks vermillion old Blanketts We also supplied ourselves with Buffaloe robes we have now a good outfit and here we found plenty of meat which can be had of the Indians for a trifle On the 17th we put out and ste[e]red S. E. in direction to a pass through the same mountains by which we entered the valley these Mts. run E. & W. and the pass I refer to is the next E. of the one refer[r]ed to and through it the waters of this valley reach Lewis River which is on the S. side of this range at night we en- camped within about 8 miles of the commencement of the pass On the 18th we did not leave camp when near starting we observed 2 partys of Indians coming out of the pass about 200 in number with but few horses after securing our camp our riders went out to meet them and soon found them to be Blackfeet a little skirmish ensued one of the Blackfeet was killed and his Blankett and robe brought into camp on this the Indians made for the timber the women and children were seen flying to the mountains at this time only 42 men being the party of Mess Milton Sublette & Frapp mine and a few Independent Hunters were in sight and the Indians were disposed to give us their usual treatment when they meet us in small bodies but while the Indians we[re] making their preparations we sent an express to camp which soon brought out a smart force of Nez Perces Flatheads and whites the Indians finding they were caught fortified themselves in a masterly man- ner in the wood. We attacked them and continued the attack all day there were probably about 20 of them killed and 32 horses were found dead They decamped during the night leaving most of their utensials lodges &c and many of the dead we have lost
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3 whites killed 8 badly wounded among which is Mr Wm. Sub- lette who was extremely active in the battle about 10 of the Indians were killed or mortally wounded of the Nez Perces and Flatheads in the morning we visited their deserted fort they had dug into the ground to reach water and to secure themselves from our shot It was a sickening scene of confusion and Blood- [s]head one of our men who was killed inside* their fort we found mutilated in a shocking manner on the 19th we removed back to our former ground to be near our whole force and to recruit the wounded and bury the dead. Wethink that 400 lodges or about 600 warriors of the Blackfeet are on the other side of the pass and if they come they must be met with our whole force in which case the contest will be a doubtful one. We have mad[e] Horse pens and secured our camp in as good a manner as we can and wait the result this affair will detain us some days. On 24th we again moved out of the valley in the same direction as at first viz about S. E. and encamped at night in the gorge of it during the march I visited the scene of our conflict for the first time since the battle the din of arms was now changed into the noise of the vulture and the howling of masterless dogs the stench was extreme most of the men in the fort must have perished I soon retired from this scene of disgusting butchery On the 25th we proceeded through the pass which is tolerably good and in a direc- tion of about S. W. by S. and encamped 15 miles on Lewis River (here concentrated into one rapid stream) and about 30 miles S. of where we crossed it in going into the valley we are now employed in making bull boats in order to cross it One Buffaloe and some antelope killed today 26 crossed the river in a bull boat without accident in 4 hours and moved on in a westerly direction about 4 miles when we struck into a deep ravine with a little water in it this ravine is bordered by high presipices on each side and is small 3 miles up this we encamped for the night this stream is called Muddy as there is several of this name it is requisite to distinguish this by the cognomen of Muddy that falls into [the] ".Lewis"
26th we moved up the Muddy until we found the forks of it then followed the Right hand say 3 miles then took a south direction and struck another stream (small) and running in the opposite direction this we followed about 5 mil[e]s making 15 this day and encamped
arth. We moved down the stream until its junction with an- other called Grays creek which we crossed and assended a high bluff and travelled an average course of S. W. and encamped on a small creek making 15 miles this day 2 days since I first this side the mountain met with the prickly pear and since leaving
+The word "inside" is crossed out with pencil and "near" written above it with perc !!.
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WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION.
the valley of the Rendesvous the fruit that was green one day is ripe the next. The nights are still frosty but the days are very warm as in N. E. at this time fruits we have 3 kinds [of] cur- rants one of gooseberry all different from those of the U. S. and Service berrys all the first are sour the latter sweet the coun- try through which we have travelled for these two days past has a strong volcanic appearance the streams occupy what ap- pear to be but the cra[c]ks of an over heated surface the rocks are blown up in blubbers like a smiths cinders some rocks ten feet through are but a shell being hollow. A substance abounds like bottle glass of about the same weight not so transparent about as brittle the fracture is smooth and glossy with the ex- ception of the cracks as above the country is tolerably level for a mountainous country but excessively dry. During our first days march from Lewis River beside the ravine above men- tioned we passed three craters of small volcanoes (as I suppose) and I am told there is a boiling spring near the same place We here find buffaloe plenty and fat and entirely different from those met with in the Spring on the Platte it is preferable to the best beef. Our party have taken lice from the Indians they are a great trouble as well as the Musquitoes these last trouble us in the day but the frost seals their wings at night when the first relieve them until morning.
On the 28 we moved in a direction about S. W. and during the march took the bearing of the Trois Tetons which was N. E. by E. and I think 75 miles we made 7 miles and encamped on a little stream meandering through a valley of about 100 acres of fine Black land with the grass as good as the buffaloe and the cold weather could admit of. Here we found plenty of cows and more Bulls 13 of the first were killed they were fat and we stop- ped to make meat these cows were killed by running them down which is a dangerous method expensive in horses and Requiring much skill in Riding We of course were obliged to employ help for none could be got by approaching while they were Running them
29th We remained all day making meat with a hot sun this morning sent 3 men down the creek fishing they caught 21 Sal- mon Trout and returned at to this afternoon it rained hard and during the storm the squaw of one of the party was delivered of a Boy in the bushes whither she had retired for the purpose it[s] head was thickly covered with Black hair it was as white as is usual with the whites in less than an hour afterwards the squaw made her appearance in camp as well and able for a days travel as usual it continued raining all night and until 8 of the 30 on which acc. our march was defer[r]ed for the day which was afterward fine and our meat dried well. + Beavers were caught from about 12 traps last night during this day one of the party saw an indian which must have been a Blackfoot as otherwise he
٢٠ الد الجملة
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would have come to camp yesterday and today we had Thunder & Hail as well as rain.
Ist. Augt I date this the Ist. on acc. of having missed a day in the time past. This day we made about 15 miles in a S. W. direction and most of the way in a deep valley and encamped 011 a small creek running into one called Blackfoot this latter is the second stream we have passed which em[p]ties into S. fork of Lewis River the first was called Grays River and is also small (this since crossing Lewis River) Here we stopped until the 4th to make meat of which I made enough to eat and no more whue the other two parties who had go[o]d buffaloe Riders and Horses made considerable while her[e] we lost one Horse while attempting to Run Buffaloe by throwing his Rider and Running among the Buffaloe and going off with them I sent out a party to get fish of two men they Returned with about a peck of craw fish and a dozen of trout these average about Ilb and are fine eating. We have here the Sandhill Cranes in plenty. On the 4th we moved due south and crossed Blackfoot and struck over to a stream ein- tying into the same as Blackfoot called Portneuf from a man kill- ed near it 18 miles here we found Buffaloe in the bottom and the Hunters are now out Running them. Here we remained this day and the 5th when the men I had sent out to hunt the horse re- turned as I had expected them on the 4th I was much alarmed for their saf[e]ty being in a dangerous country while here we made 7 bales meat On the 5th. we mooved S. down the valley 3 miles and encamped on a creek running into the valley on the 7th we made 21 miles first down the N. side of the valley and taking the first creek running out of the valley then in a S. W. direction and encamped on it from the valley above mentioned rises Bear River running into the the Big Salt Lake distant about S. E. 50 miles Currants and service berrys are now ripe. I have been sick from indigestion for some days more so than I ever was before. We have here the Sandhill Crane Turtle dove Robbin Blackbirds (Crow & Cow) Kingfishers Black & Mallard Ducks, Ge[e]se. We find meat making a tedious buisness. On the 8th we moved S. W. 15 miles following the main Portneu! out of the valley for about 12 miles then took one ofitstributaries for about 3 miles and encamped on the S. W. side of the valllley in which this branch runs here we cached 6 Horse loads of goods and remained on the 9th & roth & rIth moved on in a S. W. direction not following any stream but passing the ridge bordering the valley in a low place near where a small run puts into the valley from a very rugged pass. We made this day 15 miles and encamped on a small run going into [the] Portneuf.
12th We made in a S. W. direction about 6 miles not follow- ing any stream but encamped on a very small run with poor grass.
13 We made 24 miles in a west and by N. direction and met 110 water for this distance and encamped on a very small run issu-
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ing from a spring a few miles from Lewis River we are here in sight of the River running through an extensive valley in a S. W. direction here are the American falls the place may be known by several high and detached hills arising from the plain the falls at one place [are] 22 feet and the Rapids extend a considerable distance down the River We found here plenty of Buffaloe sig11 and the Pawnacks come here to winter often on account of the Buffaloe we now find no buffaloe there are here abundance of Service berrys now ripe during a short walk from camp this mng. I saw a buff colored fox with a white tip on his tail. Wolves here serenade us every night making more noise than 50 village dogs and better music for they keep in chord and display more science yesterday we parted from 16 men bound out trap- ping. We are now in a country which affords no small game and a precarious chance for Buffaloe
14th We made 30 miles in a S. W. direction and encamped on a creek called Casu* River it joins the main River below the Am. falls. This days Ride was through an excessively barren country with no water between the two last camps on the N. side of the Lewis River and about 50 miles distant from it is a range of snowy mounts. [There are]also two or three points in the chain of this side with snow on them.
15th We made along the banks of the Ocassia about 25 miles and encamped on the west bank of it. The valley of the Ocassia is about 4 miles wide and of a rich soil but the excessive cold and . drouth of this country prevents vegetation from assuming a fer- tile character. The air is so dry that percussion caps explode without striking and I am obliged to put the caps on and fire im- mediately except in the night when we consider it safe to keep the caps on the guns we have in this country a large kind of black crickett 2 inches long said to be used as food by the Indians they are in great numbers and roost on the sage at noonday there are also in the streams abundance of craw-fish we see an- telope and old buffaloe sign
16th We made 25 miles up the same side of the Ocassia then crossed it and followed S. W. 3 miles and encamped on a small mountain run making in all 28 miles in a W by S. direction yesterdays march was in a direction W by S.
17th We moved in a W. by S. direction about 15 miles to a creek putting into Lewis River on which we found no beaver of consequence having been trap[p]ed out by the H. B. Co. some years before.
18th We moved out up the creek about 8 miles and still found no beaver saw one Pidgeon Woodpecker this creek runs through what are called cut rocks otherwise volcanic in this region I found one mountain of Mica Slate enclosing garnetts. The Ba-
*The name is thus written above "Ocassia" crossed out.
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saltic rock appears to be the same formerly and the remains of the Garnetts are in some cases to be seen. also I have found here granite in small blocks there is also much white sand- stone compact the clefts [cliffs?] on each side of this creek are high and perpendicular but the bottom affords good grass for this country. There is no timber except willow and alder in the hot- tom and cedar on the hills this days course about S. along the creek
19th We moved up the creek about 12 miles in a S. W. di: rection there was still little beaver this afternoon I took 2 nien and proceeded from camp about S miles about W. following the creek and slept there at sunrise on the 20th we moved up about 12 miles in a W direction and while I was engaged in the brook setting a trap we found three Indians following us the two men were on the bank and were seen but myself in the creek was un- noticed when they crossed to go to the men I presented my pistol to the first one who made a precipitate retreat back while I made mine to my gun having got which I bec[k]oned them to come to me which they did we then went to camp which we found had moved this day about 10 miles in same direction these In- dians were Snakes the first we had seen during the march the party passed a hot spring the country still volcanic.
2Ist We followed the creek in a N. W. direction about 5 miles when we met a village of the Snakes of about 150 persons having about 75 Horses they were poorly off for food and clothing but perfectly friendly they are diminutive in person and lean. * We encamped to trade with them but did nothing except getting a few skins for moccasins this morning caught my first Beaver a large one.
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