USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 25
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34
On the 19th I took leave of my hospitable entertainer in one of the Cos. barges with my party leaving my horses in his charge at the fort and proceeded down the river about 4 mils and s[t]opped to tighten our boat the river forms fine eddies to work up with and about 3 mile current down the 2nd run of fish failed this year in the river and the Indians are picking up the most nause- ous dead fish for food the course of the river [is] about S. W.
20th Left the beach at sunrise the River still S. W. and kept on until about noon when a furious wind arose from the S. W. and stopped our further progress the sand flew so as to obscure the air Here we traded a few fish from the natives for Hooks awls powder &c made to miles during which we passed some rapids of a bad character at which in times of high water portage is necessary the ge[e]se are numerous seated on the banks of the river. River W. by S. a large snowy mountain S. W. by W. ahead which the river leaves to the left called by the French "Montagne de Neige" made 10 miles
174
JOURNAL: [231
2Ist Wind same but more moderate Put down the river still W by S. passed a large Island at the lower end of which we stopped for the night. Ther. 22 deg. Made 16 miles during the day our boatman bought a colt which we found fine eating shagg and ge[e]se plenty
22nd Made 30 miles wind moderate and no rapids of much dif[f]iculty stopped at night at a village where was a chief sick to whom our conductor administered some medicine and bled him his eyes were exceeding yellow and his blood after standing a short time was covered with a scum of yellowish green he gave us a horse to eat of which he had 260 in fine order and of good breed we found the meat equal to any beaf and quite different from the poor and sick old ones we had eaten. They here sell Horses for roo loads am[m]unition I Blankett and 14 1b tobacco.
23rd The chief much better and we left him Yesterday our people in search of wood of which there is none but drift here found a pile which they brought to our fire but were soon told by the natives that they had robbed the dead we will avoid the like mistake in the future we made this day 28 miles during which distance we passed one bad rapid and the river John Day from a trader of that name. This river is large but obstructed by rapids and enters from the S. is 79 miles below Walla Walla no rain as yet but we are informed that the rain is now constant below the falls we see Indians every few miles who come off to trade what little articles they have sometimes with nothing to beg a chew of tobacco sometimes with a little wood for fuel sometimes with two 3, one or 12 a fish a few berrys our conductor appears to have a wife at each stopping place 4 already and how many more sable beauties god only knows these Indians are tolerably honest but will steal a little.
24th Started about 9 and after about [6 miles]* passed the grand falls of the Columbia just above which a small river puts into the Columbia about the size of the small rivers above the Wallah [Wallah] for instance these falls now the water is low are about 25 feet when the water is high these falls are covered the water not having a sufficient vent below the water here rises about 40 feet just before arriving at the falls are considerable rapids the falls are easily passed in boats at high water we hired the Indians about 50 for a quid of tobacco each to carry our boat about i mile round the falls the goods we carried ourselves shortly after passing the falls we passed what are called the dalles (small ) or where the river is dam[in]ed up between banks steep and high of not more than 100 feet apart through which the whole waters of the mighty Columbia are forced with much noise and uproar I passed through with some Indians while my men went round they not being good boatmen enough to trust
*So written but crossed out.
175
232]
WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION.
and fright[en]ed withall. We are now camped at the Great Dalles which are still narrower and more formidable than the small having stop[p]ed after making 20 miles the wind being high and unfavorable for passing at the gorge of this pass the water rises[?] by the mark on the rock at least 50 feet forming a com- plete lock to the falls above the back water covering them en- tirely. The Indians are thieves but not dangerous before us and apparently in the river rises the most formidable mountain we have seen the country ahead is clothed with forest to the river side which has not been the case before and the western horizon is covered by a dense cloud denoting the region of con- stant rain during the winter.
25th Made this day 6 miles and passed the great dalles similar to the small ones which we passed yesterday but still .narrower being 75 feet about in width through this pass we went with an unloaded boat at an immense speed the goods and Baggage were carried past on the backs of my men and some Indians hired for that purpose my men not being good boatmen and timorous I hired Indians to work ours through going with them myself to learn the way during part of this day we had a fair wind the river still W. by S. here we saw plenty of grey headed seals we bought some bear meat from the Indians which we found very fine. We encamped for the first time on the river among timber among which I saw a kind of oak and ash. Indians Plenty one chief at whose lodge we stopped a short time gave me some molasses obtained from [the] fort below to eat He had a large stock of dried fish for the winter 4 tons I should think roots &c he was dressed in the English stile Blue frock coat pants. & vest comported himself with much dignity enquired my name particu- ularly and repeated it over many times to impress it on his mem- ory his sister was the squaw of an American of the name of Bache who established a post on the river below the great dalles three years ago last fall and who was drowned in them with It others the following spring the remains of the fort I saw as also the grave of the woman who died this fall and was buried in great state with sundry articles such as capeau vest pantaloons shirts &c. A pole with a knob at the top is erected over her remains at the foot of the Dalles is an island called the Isle of the Dead on which there are inany sepulchers these Indians usually inter their dead on the Islands in the most romantic scituations where the souls of the dead can feast themselves with the roar of the mighty and eternal waters which in life time affflorded them sustenance and will to all eternity to their posterity.
26 After 30 miles of beautiful navigation with little current and fair strong wind and no rapids we arrived at the Cascade or lower obstruction of the river here it is necessary to carry the boat and the Indians are all dead only two women are left a sad remnant of a large nmber their houses stripped to their frames
176
JOURNAL:
[233
are in view and their half buried dead this portage will be a hard job during this day I went ashore to a small lake near the river I killed at one discharge of my double barrelled gun 5 * of them which gave 5 of us a hearty supper no rain as yet but constant appearance of it ahead at these rapids are a great many seal it is a mystery to me how they assend them. The direction of the river is here about W by S. and a little snow on some of the highest of the hills this day we passed the high mountain covered with snow her[e]tofore mentioned it is on the left of the river and is a more stupendous pile than any of the Rocky Mts. Always covered with snow and is called the Snowy mountain.
27th in the morning commenced carrying the boat and goods which we finished at I ock. and making 9 miles in all stopped to repair the boat which was leaky from damage sustained in carry- ing rained all this day and saw but two[?] Indians.
28th With a fair wind and a little rain we decended the river at a great rate on the route we killed a goose which dropped in the water a white headed Eagle from a distance seeing this took occasion to come he seized it and lifted it into the air a few feet but our near approach fright[en]ed him away made this day 26 miles and stopped at a saw mill belonging to the H. B. Co. under charge of a Mr. Cawning[?] a gentleman who came here 22 years since with a Mr Hunt he is in the service of the Co. We were treated by him with the greatest kindness he gave us moc- [c]asins and food in plenty. ·
29th Started at 10 ock and arrived at the fort of Vancouver at 12, 4 miles Here I was received with the utmost kindness and Hospitality by Doct. McLauchland [McLoughlin] the acting Gov. of the place Mr McDonald MrAllen and Mr Mckay gentlemen resi- dent here Our people were supplied with food and shelter from the rain which is constant they raise at this fort 6000 bush. of wheat 3 of Barley 1500 potatoes 3000 peas a large quantity of punkins they have coming on apple trees, peach Do. and grapes. Sheep, Hogs, Horses, Cows, 600 goats, grist 2, saw mill 2. 24 lb guns powder magazine of stone the fort is of wood and square they are building a Sch. of 70 Tons there are about 3 settlers on the Multnomah they are the old engages of the Co. who have done trapping. I find Doct. McLauchland a fine old gentleman truly philanthropic in his Ideas he is doing much good by introducing fruits into this country which will much facilitate the progress of its settlement ( Indian corn 3000 bush ) The gentlemen of this Co. do much credit to their country and concern by their education deportment and talents. I find my- self involved in much difficulty on acc. of my men some of whoni wish to leave meand whom the Co. do not wish to engage no[r] to have them in the country without being attached to some Co.
*A word is omitted from the journal.
-----
177
WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION.
234]
able to protect them alledging that if any of them are killed they will be obliged to aveng[e] it at an expense of money and ami- cable relations with the Indians. And it is disagreeable for me to have men who wish to leave me. The Co. seem disposed to render me all the assistance they can they live well at these posts they have 200 acres of land under cultivation the land is of the finest quality.
30th to 5th. Nov remained at Vancouver and except the last day rain.
6th started down the river to look with a view to the Salmon buisness we decended the river at about 4 mils per hour and ac- complished the journey in parts of 4 days the river is full of islands but they are all too low for cultivation being occasionally overflowed as also the praries (what few there are) on the main land with the exception of these small levells the country is so rough that a great part of the earth must be inhabited before this but the soil is good and the timber is heavy and thick and almost impenetrable from underbrush and fallen trees the description of Mess. Lewis & Clark and others is fully borne out as to size and more also the river is so well known at this part of it that I will not insert any observations of my own there are a great number of fowl on this river at this time and there will be more as they say soon there are large swan white ge[e]se a goose with a motled breast and yellow bill a trifle smaller than the goose of N. E. A white goose almost exactly like the domestic goose of N. E. yellow feet and legs as also the former there is another goose like that of N. E. but I think smaller there is the tame duck of N. E. with 19 tail feathers and a fine duck to eat there is the grey duck of N. E. green winged teel Buffle heads Cape Races Dippers of the Sea loons seal deer I killed one"swimming the river I saw no elk but only tracks fort George now occupied as a trading post by the H. B. Co. is well scituated on a sloping bank of the river about 2 miles outside of Tongue point and 6 miles inside of Clatsop point Chinnook point is opposite the latter and inside Chinnook is a river of small size is also inside Tongue point above Tongue point about 6 miles are the Cathlametts they are an archipelago of reedy Islands overflown at high water Here are ducks innumerable. the Indians in this part of the river are of late much reduced they appear good and hosptable as far as an Indian ever is that is they are willing to sell provisions for all they can get for them they appear to live well and I believe any one may with plenty of powder and lead on this river either as a purchase or to shoot there are no beaver here We arrived at the Fort of V. on the 15- th Nov having had no rain during this time. I must here men- tion the very kind gentlemanly conduct of Mr. Jas. Bernie suprintendent of Ft. G. who assisted me to a boat and pilot for the outer harbor and acted the part of host to perfection I had
-
17S
JOURNAL: [235
much pleasure with a little liquor and a pipe in his company he has seen much of this country and is of the old N. W. concern I derived much information from him on my return to the fort my men came forward and unanimously desired to be released from their engagement with a view of returning home as soon as pos -. sible and for that end to remain here and work for a maint[ en ]ance until an opportunity should occur. I could not refuse they had already suffered much and our number was so small that the prospect of remuneration to them was very small I have there- fore now no men these last were Mr. Ball Woodman Sinclair. Breck, Abbot, Tibbits they were good men and persevered as long as perseverance would do good Iam now afloat on the great sea of life without stay or support but in good hands i. e. myself and providence and a few of the H. B. Co. who are perfect gentle- men During my absence Guy Trumbul died on the 7th of Nov. of the Cholic an attack of which he had on the Platte of which he nearly died in this case he was taken in the evening and died early in the mng. His funeral was attended by all the Gentlemen at the place and prayers were said accord[ing] to the form of the Church of England for this attention to my affairs in my absense was considerate to my feelings and I hope will be duly appreciated service is here perform- ed on sunday and on the days prescribed by the church of Eng. our excursion down the river was performed in an Indian canoe which we hired for a 3 12 point Blankett[?] We found it very kittish but withall a good craft for sailing and easy to paddle but the men were exceedingly awkward.
19th From this to the 29th I remained at Fort Vancouver eat- ing and drinking the good things to be had there and enjoying much the gentlemanly society of the place.
On the 29th. with Abbot and Woodman in an Indian canoe I started for a journey up the Wallamet or Multonomah River this river which is highest in the winter was so at this time but is not rapid until near the falls the subjoined scetch will shew its course as I made it distance by the river by my estimate 27 !: miles to the falls which are perpendicular about 20 feet past these we carried our canoe about 14 mile and launched above the falls the water though generally more rapid above would admit of the running of a steam boat. In this river at this time there is more water than in the Missouri and not of a more difficult character to navigate the tide flows to within 8 miles of the fall- below the fall the banks of the river are not suitable for cultiva- tion being overflowed as far as the bottom extends which is not far and beyond these the country rises into rocky hills unfit for tillage but producing very large timber mostly if not all of the pines On the bottoms there is consid[e]rable oak of a kind not found in the States but of excellent quality for ship building and is
OTE
127.20'
45'40'
Fr Vancouver Lat. 45'36'51 Long. 12"'
This space between the Col and itall. Sometimes florted in the Summer Also all the water at the rise of the Columbia as Hills or Low Mountains
.
45°20'
Large River
Falls
4. B. C. mill
A
unos
ry both
River Boudin
i Dupattys House.
The land route
idervais Hogen
and much ock timber balk sides of the meer
Lands of the finest quality and quite bevall
Country here interspersed with wood and open
450
Scale a south of an inch to English mile 2 points variation
low Hall's House and Island.
.
mette belot
Creek
Columbia River
miles
.
Small ) ou
236]
WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION.
179
the only kind of oak found in the country of the Columbia I noticed but two streams coming into the river below the falls the river to within 6 mils of its junction with the Columbia runs along the N. E. side of a range of hills or as they would be called in N. E. mountains at the falls it passes through this range this river has two mouths the East one is the one I assended the west one follows the range of hills above described to their falling on the Columbia about 3 miles below the eastern entrance [of] the mouth of this river is in Latt 45 deg. 36 min. 51 sec. Long. 122 deg. 48 min. Above the falls for 22 mils by estimate the banks of the river are high enough to prevent [over]flowing but timbered and not fertile and rough and the country apparently not valuable except for timber which is here mostly of the pines except a small quantity of cotton wood and alder the latter is here a tree of sometimes a foot and an half through at the falls the H. B. Co. are erecting a saw mill to which they contemplate adding a grist mill the scituation for mill priviledges is beyond any thing I have ever seen 22 mils from the falls are 3 or 4 Canadians settled as farmers they have now been there one year have Hogs, Horses. Cows, have built barns, Houses, and raised wheat, barely, potatoes, turnips, cab[b]ages, corn, punkins, mellons The country here becomes open, but still wood enough and a much greater proportion of oak prairies of from 1 to 30 miles in extent bound by a skirting of timber this country seems a valley between the mountains to the East and West of about 50 miles wide including both sides of the river and is very level of nearly uniform soil extremely rich equal to the best of the Missouri lands. Accounts vary much as to its southerly extent I have seen it at least 75 mils in a southwardly direction and from all I can learn I think it extends with but little inter[r]uption as far south as the valllely of the Buneventura which is also of the same description of country. and I have never seen country of equal beauty except the Kanzas country and I doubt not will one day sustain a large population 10 mils by land above the first settlement and 30 by the river is another by a Mr Jervie which was a very fine beginning of one years standing of the same character and product as the one below in all about 9 settlers are on this river if this country is ever colonised this is the point to commence the river is navigable for canoes to its very sources but as I understand Very circuitous deer abounds in this district and wolves one of which a large devil I shot these settlers I found exceeding attentive to my comforts especially Mr Jervai at whose house I slept 2 nights I was absent from the fort this time 10 days.
To the 4th Jany. the weather was little better than a contin- ual rain not however a hard rain often but a drizzling uncomfort- able air during December there fell 9'% inches rain by a pluvi- ometer on the 4th the wind came strong to N. N. E. with fair
...
-
180
JOURNAL:
[237
and cool weather Ther. averaging about 19 Deg. this continued to the 8th when there is much floating ice in the river and those here think that with two days more of this weather the river will close. The readiness w[it]h which the river fre[e]zes must arise from the water getting intensely cold in the upper country. Du- ring this month Mr. Mckay gave our room a treat of Buffaloe meat salted and smoked and this being the first opportunity of comparing good Buffaloe meat with other good meat was highly acceptable. I think it equal to the best meat ever eaten. Up to the 4th there was no frost in the ground and ploughing is com- monly done all the winter during the latter part of January the River rose about 4 feet which must have arisen from the rains as there could be no melting of snow on the Mountains at this seas- on these rains must have I think extended farther back than is described to be their range viz the falls at which the timbered country terminates. Carrots are here finer and larger than I have ever before seen one I think was 3 inches through and of fine flavor. There appears much sickness amon[g] the people here es- pecially among the common people which I think arises from low diet and moist weather for as far as I can observe the gentlemen who live well are not much subject to disorders. the main dis- order is an intermittent fever which has carried off all or nearly all the Indians who live even worse than the engages. The Lima which sailed a month since had not to the ist Jany. got out of the river. I have been Informed by Mr Douglas and Mr. Finlesson that ves- sells have laid off the bar 7 weeks before they could enter.
IIth Jany. The River closed with ice and I am detained here until it opens. Last winter the river remained frozen 5 weeks there is yet no snow. Today heard by Mr Hermatinger of the death of Mr Vande[r]burg killed by the Blackfeet up to this time the weather continued clear and cold for this country the Ther. varying from 12 deg. to 20 deg.
On the 18th at 2 oclock it commenced hailing and at day light the hail was about 2 inches on the ground the River closed on the roth and so remains at present on the 14th I walked across the Columbia and found the ice about 6 inches thick where it lay smooth but it was much turned up edge wise afternoon of the 18th commenced Raining and on the 19th rains still the hail was at one time from [ 1% to 2 inches deep on the 18th.
19th after raining hard all night there is no snow left it is warm and showery to day Ther. 54 deg.
20th Raining stil[1] and Ther. 52 deg. River not yet cleared ice stationary.
2Ist 22nd warm and Rainy.
23rd The river Broke up still warm Ther. 51 deg. I am informed by Mr Dav. Douglas that a Mr Woodard whom he saw in Calafornia was intending to come to the Columbia for Sal- mon he is a Brother-in-law to Capt. Ebbets and is from New
238]
WYETH'S FIRST EXPEDITION.
York Mr. Douglass saw him in Calafornia in July 1832. I am informed by Doct J. McGlaucland that he has seen strawberrys ripe here in Dec. and in blossom in Jany. the weather warm up to the 28th with occasional rains there is now little ice on the river on the banks the wreck and rubbish of the breaking up of the river. The H. B. Co. are now making a fort at Nass. to counter- act the Am. vessells on the coast.
28th Warm still and fair the Co. are about sending a party under Mr. Manson to make a fort at Milbank Sound.
30th Today a party sent to enquire after another reported to he cut off beyond the Umquoi or near the Clammat River under a man by the name of Michelle returned having as- certained that one white and two Inds. only of said party had been killed this party I [am informed] was under a man by the name of Duportt I requested to accompany him but the Gov. would not consent alledging the[y] would conceive that I came to avenge the death of Mr. Smiths party who was cut off by the Umquoi Indians, all which I interpreted into a jealousy of my motives this party brought back 200 skins which they had traded they did not go beyond the Umquoi, they were gone 2 months lost no men and but 2 horses which Died of fatigue.
3Ist to the 3rd. Feb. we had warm and wet weather on the 3rd at 10 ock. we started for Wallah Walla I had with me two men and am in company with Mr Ermatinger of the H. B. Co. who has in charge 3 boats with 120 pieces of goods and 21 men. I parted with feelings of sorrow from the gentlemen of Fort Van- couver their unremitted kindness to me while there much en- deared them to me more so than it would seem possible during so short a time Doct McGlaucland the Gov. of the place is a man distinguished as much for his kindness and humanity as his good sense and information and to whom I am so much indebted as that he will never be forgotten by me this day we came to the Prarie Du Li[s] 15 miles raining most of the day.
4th Left the prairie Du Li[s] on the lower end of it this prairie is about 3 miles long and through it the River Du Li[s] a small creek enters the Columbia we made but 2 miles when one of our boats ran foul of a rock and was stove it landed its cargo without wetting much this accident detained us till 14 before 12 ock when we started and kept on till 2 ock and stopped 20 minutes to dine then kept on till 1. past 5 ock making 17 mils this day this River is at medium water the rivers banks high precipitous and rocky from the Lea prairie in one place the bank on the N. side rises to 200 feet perpendicular I saw a hawk light on a pro- jecting crag about half way up which gave me a good idea of the height of the rock from this rock a small stream casts itself into the Com. w[h]ether a permanent one or not cannot say but should think not there are here many white headed Eagles one skunk we saw today the timber appears much smaller than below no
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.