USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 24
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22nd We followed the same creek about 2 inille]s and then struck into a ravine in a west direction and in about 6 miles came to a warm spring near a cold one which formed a run which we followed in a west by S. direction this we followed about 2 miles and encamped making this day IS miles
22nd We proceed[ed] in a S. W. direction and struck the same stream on another branch about 2 mils from the junction about 15 mils this day these two streams unite and run in a N. direction through impassable cut rocks this night caught 2 Beaver and slept out of camp.
24th Proceed up the creek in a S. W. by W. direction about 18 miles then in a W. by N. direction about 6 miles. The last half of this days travel was through clefts of Scienite rock pretty well broke to pieces by heat apparently we have here 2 kinds of Liz[z]ards the one like that of the United States as far as I could see the other shorter and more sluggish here we find the banks of the streams lined with Diggers Camps and Trails but they are shy and can seldom be spoken and then there is no one who could understand them and they appear to know little about the
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· signs which afford other Indians a mode of intelligence from this region specimens No. I are obtained.
25th We made in a W. direction along the same creek 20 miles.
26th In a W by N. direction about 20 miles
27th In a S W direction toward a snowy mountain and leav- ing the last creek 24 mils and struck one here running S. E. Country desolate in the extreme most of the creeks which have water in them on the mountains dry up in the plains of this region
28th did not move more than 2 mils up.
29th About 5 miles in a S. W. Direction to cross a range of high hills until we struck a creek running in a N. W. direction which we followed 12 mils and encamped where the creek goes into the cut rocks this day we parted from Mr. Sublett[e]s party with feeling of regrett for this party have treated us with great kindness which I shall long remember.
30th We followed the creek in a N. W. direction about 12 mils through tremenduous cut rocks I went ahead to look the route I passed the smoking fires of Indians who had just left 4 of whom I saw running up the mountain endeavoured by signs to induce them to come to me but could not Soon after I came to another camp I happened to find their plunder this induced them to come to me 3 men one boy 4 women from these Indians I procured fresh Salmon Spawn which was very encouraging as we are nearly out of provisions and the country would afford us a scanty subsist- ence I gave these Indians a few small presents to convince them of our friendly disposition. This day for the first time in this country saw raspberrys these Indians gave me a cake made of service berrys quite good they had about a Dozen of spotted fish of a kind I had never seen resembling a Tom-cod. These Indians are small about 120 of a good countenance they are Snakes or Sosshonees.
30th* We followed the same creek and made about 15 [miles] in a N. N. W. direction through a continued defile in many places ad- mitting just room for the water through which in many places we were obliged to make our way The mountains on each side are about 1000 feet above the creek which has a rapid decent here are a small fish about 14lb. similar to a trout but with large dark spots. We meet here plenty of cherrys currants and goose- berrys the latter sour. The last of yesterdays and the first of to- days route lay through Porphritis Granite rocks in their natural state the latter part of to days was through a stratified blue sandstone untouched by fire for a short distance then assumed a
"The author seems to have lost his bearings with his dates. His uncer- tainty first appears on the 17th and continues patently through to the 4th prox.
.
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volcanic appearance. This day we assended the highest mount- ain in sight and found the exhibit an indescribable chaos the tops of the hills exhibit the same strata as far as the eye can reach and appear to [have] once form[ed] the level of the country and the vall[e]y to be formed by the sinking of the earth rather than the rising of the hills through the deep cracks and chasms thus form- ed the rivers and creeks of this country creep which renders them of the most difficult character to follow in the brooks we have fresh water clams on which we look with some feeling for the small quantity of Buffaloe meat now remaining admonishes us look for some other means of living game there is little and be- ing obliged to travel prevents our hunting much. from this place the specimen in Bag No. I of vitrified quartz was taken.
3Ist We followed the same creek about 4 miles in a N. direc- tion then took a dry ravine 2 miles in a S. E. then in a N. direc- tion and then followed down another dry ravine about i mile when the rocks on each side closed over the top and formed a natural Bridge elevated about 50 feet while the sides approached to within 20 feet of each other and the bottom decended perpendicular- ly about 60 feet we of course returned on our trail and then ste[e]red a N. E. direction about 4 miles and encamped on a little ravine in which there was only a little water standing in deep places and barely enough for us and our horses. The first half mile of our route lay through the bed of the creek and among rocks from [ foot to 3 or 4 in diameter this was a very dif- ficult task and several of our horses fell in the water this day we lost two horses which gave out the country still bears the same appearance as for several days past.
2nd Sept. We left our camp in the ravine assended to the height of land which we found to be a high level plain over which we marched in a N. N. W. direction and found during a to hours march 2 springs which as the day was warm were acceptable at the end of 30 miles we reached the creek which we left on the 31st We found rabbits plenty on the plain our camp was made sur- rounded by high and and perpendicular clifts say Soo feet bearing every mark of fire here we found little grass for our horses.
3rd W'e lay at the same camp and got fish from the brook enough for breakfast after which I took [a] horse and followed the creek down about I mile and found another larger joining it a little below which there is a warm spring issuing from the bank about 40 feet above the stream it gives out smoke when it meets the air and discharges a large quantity of water about 2 miles farther down I found a small party of Indians from whom I ob- tained 8 fish weight about 4lbs each and looking like a salmon for these I gave 4 Hooks they were friendly they advise me to follow the right hand trail but I have determined to take the left and shall perhaps repent it. The left leads N. W. which I think [is] my direction I returned to camp and three of the
T
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Indians with me. One of these Indians had a bad wound on the side of his head and from his signs and appearance was made with a poisoned arrow.
3rd We moved camp in the proposed direction viz N. W. 16 miles During which distance we found stagnant water once and encamped near about 15 Indians diggers 3 of our men we left at the last camp to set their traps at some signs there seen. These Indians are very poor and timid when I approached them alone on a gallop they all began to run but by moderating my pace and making signs the[y] suffered me to come to them they gave me some sweet root to eat for which I gave them 3 Hooks they had a young yellow legged eagle with them and most of the diggers we have met had a small kind of Hawk at their camps these they feed and tame this party also had a young bird tame resembling a King Bird this days travel was on a high plain and good going on an old trail these Indians had with them staves for fish spears so we presume they are going to the river for fish and so think ourselves on the right trail. For three nights passed there has been no frost a thing which has not befor[e] happened for three nights in all since leaving rock Independence. Snow spit we had the 28th Aug. Today a slight sprinkle of Rain being the 2nd time since leaving the Rendesvous.
4th We left the camp early and proceeded over a high and pretty level plain gradually decending to the N. W. in a N. N. W. direction and after 20 mils travel without water came to ravines running E. and dry having gravelly and sandstone (un- touched by fire) blufffs] and in 5 mils more came to the creek we had left on mng. of the 3rd. [on] the banks of which we found every 20 steps or thereabouts warm or hot springs and the creek tho large and discharging a great quantity [of] water too warm to be palatable Here we found an Indian and family of whom for 2 fish Hooks we bought ; salmon of about 4 lbs weight each when green. they were split and dried. The two men left behind not having yet come up we intend halting here for them. The creek is here lined with volcanic rock today [we] saw the first fish Hawk in this country.
4th La[y] at camp and repacked our goods and held a smoke with some Indians one of whom we engaged as a guide down the river and to Beaver smoked too much and made myself sick
5th Moved on about 5 mils N. N. W. and again struck the creek and good grass found Beaver sign very plenty and for the first time set all our traps at good sign had a mess of fresh clams for dinner after which 2 Indians came to us with 4 salmon which we bought for 2 Hooks This day heard what we all took for a cannon at about to mils distance time will determine whether we were mistaken. In this creek there are a great number of snakes about 3 feet long with a large head and of a brownish grey color about the proportion of the striped snake of N. E.
استرديئة التحم إنطلق L ba
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They Inhabit the water and I saw one catch a small fish within two feet of me while bathing at a warm spring which put into the main stream The bathing at these warm springs is delicious there are hundreds of them and some large enough to dive in Some gush out of the rocks at an elevation of 40 feet above the stream and discharge enough water for a mill I can perceive 10 unusal taste in the water.
6th Remained at same camp and were visited at 10 ock in the morning by two Indians with whom we held a smoke we can learn nothing of any white post by these Indians caught - Beaver
7th Remained at same camp and exchanged two horses with some Pawnack Indians three of whom visited us also about 10 Sohonees with Salmon of which they have plenty here wecaught a N. England Sucker also a fish a little resembling [a] pike of about 3 lbs weight but without teeth. Caught 3 Beaver. Ravens are here very plenty and tame the[y] light on the perpendicular sides of the creek waiting for fish on which they live. Ge[e]se and ducks are also plenty as well as grouse. Some of the Indians have guns but most of them go unarmed The creek here for about to miles runs W. N. W.
8th Mooved camp down the creek about 12 miles and came to the village under the escort of about 20 Indians on Horseback one of whom by the direction of the chief shewed us the place for our camp where grass and water could be had here the chief Harangued his people telling them not to come into our lines nor steal from the white people be sent his squaws with wood for us and also sent salmon for us to eat I gave him a present of tobacco awls Hooks Powder vermillion knives ect. Here - traded a Beaver skin robe for two knives and six skins with many muskrat which are plenty here I found these Indians great thieves in the small line knives ect. Missing mine I went to one of the Sub Chiefs and told him of it he made enquiry and point- ed out the thief who refusing to open his Robe I gently did it for him but instead of finding the knife found a coat of one of the men which he held upon until I drew a pistol on which he gave it up and caught up what he supposed to [be] one of our guns but it happened to be my covered fishing rod he was then held by the other Indians and sent to the village and I saw him no more
9th In [the] morning went to see the Indians catch Salmon which is done by entangling them in their passage up the creek among dams which they erect and spearing them they catch an im- mense quanity the operation commences in the morning at a signal given by their chief. This chief is a good sized man aud very intelligent and the President would do well if he could pre- serve the respect of his subjects as well or maintain as much dignity
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ro Mooved down the main river in a S. W. direction which here runs through moderate banks in a moderate current We are told that the next creek has beaver by the chief and that it is 4 days march The main river is here full of salmon which continually jump above the the surface like sturgeon.
roth Mooved camp along the Bank of the river 3 miles there the river diverging to the Northward we left it and followed the main trail the river here goes[?] through cut rocks about 30 miles We made this day 20 mils in all in a W. N. W. Direc- tion and encamped in poor grass on a small creek I mile from the main river during the march we crossed a small creek up which about 2 mils is a fine camp.
IIth Moved at 3 A. M. and followed the trail 24 mils in a W. V. W. Direction and encamped on the bank of the main river which is here a fine stream about a 1/3 mile or over. I swam across it and found it over my head all the way here we found Indians and bought Beaver 3 skins for I shoe knife and 4 charges powder & lead we also got salmon of them the Basalt here occurs resting on sand and gravel in some places the rock is not more than 4 feet thick and appears to have suffered from intense heat the country is barren in the extreme there is us- ual[1]y a difference of 40 deg. between the day & night the heat at noonday about 75 to 85 deg. The Indians here have large nets made in the European manner of the hemp of the country. The trail on the river so far is fine and much used.
12 Moved camp 15 miles on the trail in a W. N. W. direc- tion and following the bank of the river which is here a gentle stream of about 4 miles and 1/2 mile wide. Gnats here trouble us much and the days are extremely hot about 85 deg. and the nights warm enough for comfort The river is full of salmon and a plenty of them are to be had of the Indians whom we meet every few mils fishing on the banks of the stream Some of the grass is here so salt that it can be washed in a pot of water and enough seasoning for boiling obtained grass is generally poor. The banks are here generally sand Many kinds of water fowl frequent the river here today we bought a fish of the Indians dried excessively fat and when alive a large fish, sturgeon probably
13th moved camp along the bank of the river and following the trail 24 miles only deviating from the river about 3 mils of the last of the travel. The first 6 miles the river is W. the next 3 N. W. then S. W. 3 then taking a circular sweep round to N. by E. which was 9 miles then left the river and in 3 miles struck a creek about as large as Charles River at Water- town, where we found grass. salmon and Indians and the first timber we have seen since leaving the Mts. in sight on what ap- pears to be a river coming in from the N. side this I mean to ascertain tomorrow and the next day I shall start to explore the
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creek for Beaver This forenoon and yesterday forenoon were cloudy and the first cloudy weather for 2 months except as men- tioned before. We[a]ther still as warm as So deg. in day time buy salmon for a hook apiece.
14th Mooved camp in a N. N. W. Direction 5 miles and en- camped on the main river being out of provisions I sent a man on a mule to buy some salmon he went up the river about 3 iniles and called to some Indians on one of the Islands to bring some these he bought afterward another Indian came over with some the man thinking he had got nearly enough offered him a less price this displeased the Indian who slapped him in the face and at the same time hit the mule a kick which set him out on the run and the Indian ran quick enough to avoid vengeance the man came to camp much displeased having had to walk most of the way and carry his fish this day also visited by Indians from below with salmon
15th Sent 3 men and 4 animals to examine the small river for beaver this day a N. W. wind much like the N. E. of the Atlantic with some little rain (at the same camp) this day took a ride down the river to examine for a camp 16th N. W. wind still took a ride up the river to find a camp where timber, fit for a raft which we propose to build to carry some of the loose bag- gage and some men who are on foot can be found, found none saw some beaver sign in trading for some salmon an Indian attempted to sna[t]ch a paper of fish hook[s] from me but he did not make out returned to camp and sent two men to trap for the beaver they left their horses and went into the willows to look [for] the sign during which time the Indians none of whom were in sight stole a cloak from Mr. Ball. They found the beaver had lately been trapped out say within 3 weeks next morning they returned to camp
17th Mooved camp N. by W. 16 miles and encamped on a creek about as large as the last near a few lodges of Indians the main river about two miles to N. E. This creek appears to run S. W. The Inds. say there is beaver on it the main river here makes a considerable detour to the N. Yesterday had hail and rain & snow and today the Mts. to the Northward are white with it.
18th With 2 men I went up the creek this I followed about 50 miles and found its general course about W by N. the first 15 miles S. W. then W. 20 then N. N. W. 15 where the cut rocks begin This is a large stream when the waters are high in the spring but nowis sluggish here we got a few beaver It had been trapped by the H. B. 2 years before we saw no Indians on it during the 9 days I was up. On the roth day I returned to where I left the party and feeling in the mood of banter I told the Indians at the mouth of the creek (the party having left ) that I had eaten nothing for two days this to see if they would give
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me anything for charity sake. One of them went and looked at my saddle and pointed to me the fresh blood of a beaver I had that morning caught and left with the two men I then bought 2 salmon for one awl afterward I told him I had three children at home he brought forward three tawny brats and his squaw who was big I backed out of story telling with Indians. I then pro- ceeded on until the moon went down when seeing a light I made for it after traveling 5 miles I found it to be an Indian camp 011 the other side of the river I then unsaddled my horse and slept until 4 ock when I mounted and at 9 ock found where my party had camped the same night and a notice in the trail of their motions at HI ock I overtook them with my horse lame and jaded. I found an Indian with the party who seems to know the route to Wallah Wallah and he intends going with us Dur- ing my absence the three men sent up the creek above the one I went up returned without accident, and during the same time Mr. Sublette with Mr. Frapp & party joined our camp and crossed by fording to the other side of the river intending to divide into 3 parties and trap up three streams coming in opposite the up- per one of which we thought to be salmon river it proves to be called Big Woody on account of the timber on it. They attempted to come down on the creek above the one I asscended but after toiling long and wearing down their horses in a cruel manner they crossed to the one that we decended and arrived at the Indian village the day after we left it he left be- fore I returned I regretted much not seeing this party. from Information gained here we suppose that we shall meet no Indians between this and the fort have threfore provided as much salmon as we could get and put ourselves on allowance. Subblette who went to 2 creeks further than I did saw a large stream running S. W. this must either turn and be some large river coming in- to Lewis below here or be the head water of some river going to the Gulph of California. After joining camp we proceedled] on to a creek coming from the N. W. which is our route the river here being impracticable and taking a great bend to the N. and shall wait here until the two men who went up with me come to camp The river from where I lef[t] camp runs about N. 20 miles then west ro miles then N. again into cut rocks found the party all well and the horses much recruited
29th We lay at same camp.
30th Mooved about 5 miles the creek running about W.
[ Oct Mooved camp along same creek about 5 miles still W.
2nd At same camp at this place the bears dung was plenty but we saw but one.
3rd Moved camp about 15 miles creek still west and trail good.
4th With an Indian and 4 men I left camp in order to explore this creek the N. W. trail here leaving it after leaving camp I
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proceed[ed] over bad hills about 18 miles and encamped among cut rocks on the same creek it here being W. by S. during the march we observed a range of high snowy mountains to the N. of us but w[h]ether on our side of the river or not could not de- termine.
5th Made about 5 miles through intolerable cut rocks some beaver
6th At same camp.
7th 5 mils on same creek which bears W. by S here left it. . having sent a messenger to camp with orders to proceed on the route to Wallah Wallah and ste[e]ring north passed some snow clad mounts. which we walked up with bare feet and after 25 mils struck a small run going into the next creek during this day we passed through an immense forest of pine of different kinds and unknown to us altho very similar to some of ours on these mountains we found unripe service berrys, cherrys and thorn apple all of which are gone on the rivers it snowed and rained most of the day many of the pines were 4 feet through
8th Moved + miles to the main creek and laid down cold and hungry and supperless hoping that our traps would give us beaver in the morning
9th Got 7 beaver and went to eating like good fellows moov- ed this day 6 miles down creek here running about N.
roth Moved N. and down creek about 15 miles and found the rest of the party who had come on the mail trail in an average N. W. direction about 45 miles This day rain this creek from where we struck it to this place runs in an extensive plain of fertile soile equal to the best I ever saw of about 5 mils average width here we raised a great smoke and am told by our Indian that the Nez Perces will see it and come to smoke with us
rith To the S. W. of us is a range of snow clad Mts. the Indian says it is 7 days to Wallah Wallah. This creek runs about N. E. by E.
IIth Started at 8 ock and moved about N. N. W. 30 miles over high ground of good soil.
12th Left the party after killing a horse of the poorest kind for food in order to go ahead to find indians or whites or food The party here remained one day in a valley of about 20 miles long and 15 wide of a very fertile soil in this valley saw exten- sive camps of Indians about one month old here they find sal- mon in a creek running through it and dig the Kamas root but not an Indian was here at this time we put out in a N. W. di- rection and assended the hills which soon became wooded with good timber our course this day was about N. N. W. and 40 miles I had with me an Indian and three men and a little horse meat we camped this night in the woods without water.
13th Arose early and continued our route until 9 ock and stopped for breakfast of bad Horse meat on a creek of some size
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where we found the red thorn apple and a few cherries after 3 hours stop we moved across the creek which runs West and is called Ottillah on ascending the opposite bluff we saw a smoke about 20 mils down on it to which we went and found some poor horses in charge of a squaw and some children the men were all out hunting they had no food but rose berrys of which we made our supper they were much fright[en]ed at our approach there having been some Indians of this tribe viz Walla Walla killed by the snakes above, and this family was murdered the night after we left them
In the morning of the 14th we put out about N. and arrived at fort Walla Walla about 5 ock in the evening distance 30 miles near the fort the river Walla Walla was crossed which is about 75 feet wide and about 2 feet deep current moderate the size of the last creek passed I was received in the most hospitable and gentlemanly manner by Peanbron [Pambrun] the agent for this post the fort is of no strength merely sufficient to frighten Indians mounting 2 small cannon having two bastions at the opposite corners of a square enclosure there were 6 whites here. My party arrived on the 18th having fared for food in the same man- ner as myself but for a longer time. They met a Nez Perce vil- lage on the 16th and got a supply of food they passed my trail and went N. of it and struck the main river above the fort they brough[t] in all the horses At the post we saw a bull and cow & calf, hen & cock, punkins, potatoes, corn, all of which looked strange and unnatural and like a-dream. They gave me a de- cent change of cloth[e]s which was very acceptable I took a ride up the river 9 miles to the junction of Lewis River which comes in from the S. E. and soon takes a S. course the Columbia comes here from the N. W.
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