USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 29
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7th. 12 miles N. N. W and camped on Grey Bull River here I found a piece of about 5 lbs of Bituminous coal which burned freely It had in it some substance which I took to be Amber al- so an impression of wood It looked like and as good as Liverpool Coal. Its fracture was too perfect to have come far. 20 miles above and on the E. side comes in the River Travelled[?] in after- noon 6 miles N. N. W. and again struck Wind river. Shell river comes in 3 miles below Grey Bull on the E. side and from the Mts. in the direction E. by N. Grey Bull is from the S. W. and much the largest stream on this side since Wind river. For three days have found no Buffaloe and from the nature of the country think it is not often found in abundance along here ex- cept in the winter no antelope a few Elk and deer.
8th. W. N. W. 3 miles then 21 miles N. E. toward the right of two considerable Mts. where Wind river passes. We? camped West of these hills on a river larger than Grey Bull called Stink- ing River coming from the S. W. This days travel was made be- tween parrallel ridges of broken lime and sand rock some of it ap-
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peared calcined and much like fine caked salt. This day picked up some shell they are very numerous also a round concretion which are found also on Cannon Ball River from which the name also a concretion of much the same substance but long pointed at one end with a core in the middle a hole at big end. During this space there was no water to our right there is a range of Mts. running N. W. about 9 miles distant and the other side of Wind River.
9th. 10 miles N. striking a small stream of water This days travel and yesterday was over ground naked of vegetables in which the animals sank near six inches deep at every step per- fectly dry and resembling, but of different color, lime in the op- eration of slacking full of holes down which the waters at the wet season sink the rock is sand and lime stone.
Ioth. N. 15 miles passing near but not exactly on the river and through rocky hills of no great height. The river here looks tranquil but flows between two perpendicular banks of stone of perhaps 5 to 800 feet high the chasm even at the top of no great width the rock of lime and sand this days march saw Plaster of Paris found for first time this year ripe Service berrys. Kill- ed one mountain sheep which was all the meat killed this day for 48 men short commons. hard rains last night.
IIth. Went out hunting killed 2 Cows and 4 Bulls the camp made about a N. course at six miles crossed a small creek
at 5 more another probably another branch of the same at 9 more a creek separate from the others but not large all these creeks have high perpendicular banks and are very bad to cross in the course of the day saw 4 Bears white. A fine grass country and a great many Buffaloe.
12th. 4 miles N. E. to Big Horn River this day went out to get Bull Hydes for boat got enough and employed the rest of the day in making a Boat this day followed down a little stream.
13th. Remained at same camp made a Bull Boat day fine.
14thı. Same camp day fine.
1 5th. Made a start in our Bull Boat found it to answer the purpose well large enough runs well leaks a little made 3 miles N. E. stream rapid shoals at places 2 feet. Too much liquor to proceed therefore stopped.
.16th. Made a start in our boat found travelling quite pleasant but requires much caution on account of some snaggs and bars. We frequently took one half of the river which dividing again gave too little water for our boat which draws 1 16 feet it is quite too much the [boat] ought to have been flatter We grounded about 6 times this forenoon it is surprising how hard a thump these bull Boats will stand ours is made of three skins is 18 feet long and about 5 1/2 wde sharp at both ends round bottom. Have seen on the banks of the river this forenoon 3 grisly bears and some Bulls in
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the river and on the banks they stare and wonder much the direction of this march was as near as I can judge N. by E. we went from 5 to 11 as I think about 6 miles per hour the indirec- tion I suppose to be not more than . All feel badly today from a severe bout of drinking last night. Afternoon made 4 hours at a good 6 mile rate grounded three times saw a few elk and much Beaver sign all day there is here the best trapping that I have ever found on so large a river it is about 100 yards wide when all together but is much cut into slews which makes the naviga- tion very difficult. The musquitoes have anoyed me much today
they affect me almost as bad as a rattle snake this afternoons course about N. N. W. at 6 miles from our noon camp passed a place where we supposed the Little Horn River came in from the S. E. at least there is a considerable river at that place but it is difficult to tell a returning slew from a river this afternoon a severe thunderstorm which compelled us to put ashore until it was over
17th. This day the river made nearly a N. course and we made about 7 12 hours at the rate of about 6 miles the river winding about 14 of the distance we started at 5 ock. at about 9 ock. saw several persons ahead on the bank of the river which we at first supposed to be whites from the fort but soon found to be Crow Indians they informed us that the whole nation was be- hind we were anxious to avoid them but could not as the river afforded us no hiding place they showed us that they meant us to land very soon by stepping and swimming into the river seeing this we chose to land without further trouble in this way we were obliged to make the shore 6 times during the day we ar- rived at the Yellow Stone which was of clear water and did not mix with the waters of the Big Horn which was at this time dirty for some miles about 3 miles below the mouth of the Big Horn we found Fort Cass one of the Am. F. Co. at which post wetrad- ed about 10 packs of Beaver and 150 to 200 pack robes goods are broug[t] up in boats of about 15 tons burthen 2 of which are now laying here and one of them preparing to descend in two days we were treated with little or no ceremony by Mr. Tullock, who we found in charge which I attributed to sickness on his part well knowing that a sick man is never disposed to be over civil to oth- ers we therefore pushed on next morning. Just as we arrived we saw 31 Indians with two American flags come to the other side of the river they were Gros ventres du Baum the same we fought with last summer at the Trois Tetons they came to make peace with the Crows they were treated civily at the Fort and before night followed the river up to the Crow village where I ex- pect their scalps will be taken for the Crows informed us that not long since a few Blkft. came and made peace with them shortly after three Crows went to the Blackfeet two of which they killed and they were determined to make no more peace with them.
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18th. Started down the river made 3 hours with a hard wind about 4 miles an hour and put up to noon seeing some elk which we were in hopes to get to eat course about N. afternoon the river tended more Eastwardly and at last came to E. N. E. We made at the rate of 5 miles an hour for 3 1/2 hours and camped to fish and hunt having no meat on hand there is along this river pretty bottoms and great quantities of sweet cotton wood which would be fine for winter camps. We saw some large bands of elk but our hunters were more conceited than good which I have gen- erally found to be the case with the hunters in this country they are not willing that a new hand should even try, and are far from good shots themselves and commonly have miserable flint guns which snap continually and afford an excuse for not killing. The river sometimes cuts blufs which are mostly of sand stone but the river brings down granite and porphry. Fort Cass is sci- tuated on the E. bank of the Yellow stone river is about 130 feet square made of sapling cotton wood pickets with two bastions at the extreme corners and was erected in the fall of 1832. The Yellow stone comes from the S. W. till it meets the Big Horn then the two go about N. until they bend to the eastward.
19th. Made 5 1/2 hours in a calm fine day I should think about 6 miles the hour the river going E. N. E. stopped early to try a band of Buffaloe that we see on the left of us, at first we were careful to see if they were really Buffaloe for yesterday we were near ap- proaching a band of Indians which I suppose were the residue of the Blackfeet which I saw at the fort as they appeared coming down from that way. Nooned in a fine cool place under the shade of a large Cotton wood in a large green bottom the musquitoes take much from the pleasure of the trip which is otherwise fine but I believe for a party like ours rather dangerous in afternoon 2 1/2 hours about 6 per H. River E. stopped on hearing the bellowing of Buffaloe on shore to get meat. Our hunters as usual having failed went myself and killed a cow got a good ducking from a shower and returned loaded with meat much fatigued. About 4 miles before we stopped we passed the mouth of Rose Bud a river coming from S. S. W.
20th. Started early and made this forenoon 6 hours at the rate of about 5 12 miles. River about E. N. E. last night a smart rain which wet our clothes much caught just at dusk last night plenty of Blue Catfish and a small one which resembles an Ale wife soon after starting this morning found an immense herd of Buffaloe close to the river stopped and killed 2 fat cows and could have killed any number more but this was enough they keep up a continued grunting night and day now that we have fairly got into them in the afternoon made 5 12 hours current about 6 miles and E. N. E. at 5 hours found bad rapids but at this low stage of the water it is said to be better passing on ac- count of the chanell being more visible we had a good joke on
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much as usual during the afternoon we had a good joke on the old hands as they call them selves in distinction to those who have been a short time in the country two bald headed Eagles being perched on a tree on a point and ranged to the other side of the river our motion made them appear moving the old one cried out Les Savvages others of them said on horseback with white scarfs I looked long but not supposing that they meant the eagles I said I saw nothing but the eagles they soon found out their mistake and we had a good laugh at them and a pleasant one as all the Indians we meet here we expect to fight. This day and yesterday whenever the river makes perpendicular banks we saw veins of poor bituminous coal in 5 to 7 veins horizontal from 3 tt. to 6 inches thick and Ic to 15 feet above each other rock sandstone.
21st. Made 5 hours river about E. N. E. passed the mouth of Powder River at 4 hours and half an hour below a bad and rocky rapid but without accident the coal still continues and thousands of Buffaloe day fine stopped to 110on a little below the rapids in the afternoon made 5 hours current about 5 miles per hour in about E. N. E. direction no rapids of consequence
the blufs have ceased these blufs are a part of the Black hills as I am informed the Black Hills I am also informed make the Falls of Missouri at the Three Forks just on leaving the blufs the coal veins appeared thicker day fine. Buffaloe plenty.
22nd. Made at 5 12 per hour 6 hours in forenoon using a sail which we found of little advantage and but a little course of the river N. N. E. and from the junction on the E. side of first Rose Bud then Tongue and then Powder Rivers it is of about the color of the Missouri altho the Yellow stone above is of clear water quite so above the junction of the Big Horn. Our boat get- ting quite rotten in afternoon made 5 hours same course 5 miles per hour river better not so [many] bars and country not mountainous the coal appears to have given out.
23rd. Made in forenoon 4 hours at the [rate] of 5 [miles] per hour river about N. E. Day fine and hot plenty of Elks in herds afternoon made 4 hours N. then 2 12 hours E. N. E. cur- rent about 4 miles per hour saw but little gameonly 2 Elk river broad and shoal.
24th, Made N. N. E. 2 hours with a heavy head wind about 4 miles per hour then the river turned Westwardly and when it enters the Missouri is running W. by S. this made one hour more when we found the Missouri which we assended N. W. about 5 miles to Fort Union where we arrived about noon and were met with all possible hospitality and politeness by Mr. McKensie the Am. F. Co. agent in this country.
27th. This day at 16 past 10 oclock we took leave our hospi- table entertainers and on the experience of a few days with pre- possessions highly in their favor we found Mr. McKensie a most
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polite host I was particularly pleased with a Mr. Hamilton and I am perhaps presumptious in saying that I felt able to appreciate his refined politeness he is a man of superior education and an Eng- lishman. I was here supplied with a peroque traded from the Blackfeet. A Mr. Patten shewed me a powder flask which he traded from the Blkft. I immediately knew it to be one of mine and on examination found No.4 H.G.O. M.graven with a point on it. It was Mores flask who was killed in Little Jackson Hole last year on his return home after rendesvous. Fort Union is pleasantly scituated on the N. bank of the Missouri 6 miles above the junc- tion of Yellow stone there is no timber on a high bank above the fort I am told that there is not enough moisture here to raise vegeta- bles potatoes grass ect, Some corn is traded from the Inds. lower down the fort is of usual construction about 220 feet square and is better furnished inside than any British fort I have ever seen at Table we have flour Bread Bacon Cheese Butter they live well
I here saw a small sturgeon but they are very rare Cat fish are good and plenty they have cows and bulls milk etc. I saw lime burning also coal here they are beginning to distil spirits from corn traded from the Inds. below. This owing to some restric- tions on the introduction of the article into the country. Above this we have met plumbs, grapes, cherrys, Currants, ash, elm. The river being already well laid down shall no longer give the course
we left the fort and went 2 hours and stopped for Mr. Sublette who remained behind to finish some business he came accomp- anied by the gentlemen of the fort after leaving us we made 4 hours then supped and made one hour more and found Mr. Wm. L. Sublette at anchor with a large Bull boat this gentleman we had expected to have found on our arrival at the Missouri he is come to trade furs in opposition to the Am. F. Co. he treated 11s with much politeness his brother preferred to remain and come to the states with him we are therefore left without any one who has decended the Missouri but I can go down stream.
28th. Pulled one hour put by from wind and to regulate then pulled 6 hours and stopped to supper the banks continually fall- ing in after supper we floated through the night 11 hours. Calm
29 While breakfast was preparing went out to hunt killed one deer and found a severe time in the thick swamp and mosqu- toes pulled 8 12 hours and drifted II hours through the night which exposed me to much rain and wind from two thunder showers. I had much difficulty to keep the boat from bars and staggs ran several times on to Bars all hands being asleep had to jump over board to get [her] off In the night elk keep upa con- tinual sque[a]ling it being now the commencement of their run- ning season.
30th Day pulled 9 hours Saw three white Bears this day and some Elk and a herd of Buffaloe night floated 8 12 hours and
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were stopped by a gale from the S. E. not thinking it expedient to pull with a head wind and in the dark.
31st Blowing a gale. Made about 4 hours about the rate of 2 mils per hour and finding it too bad laid by at a considerable river coming from the S. entering by 2 mouths this I took to be the little Missouri as laid down in the maps. In this vicinity we find primitive peb[b]les and bo[ullders much petryfied wood other al[1]uvial productions stopped all night on acc. of wind and rain which made our scituation uncomfortable in the extreme the weather had heretofore been very warm average as much as 90° this day cold like an Eastwardly storm.
Ist. At seven the weather having abated a little made a start. At 3 o'clock found some of Sublettes men cutting timber for a fort and learned from them that the upper Mandan was 9 miles ahead we made it at 6 this day made ouly about 3 per hour this village was about 1 12 miles from the river taking my Indi- an and a man with me I went to it and was well received by Mr. Dorherty, Mr. Sublet[t]es clerk and the Inds. Stopped about one hour with him and then pulled 3 hours more passing 3 vil- lages of Mandans and not seeing the fort and being afraid of pass- ing it stopped for the night.
2nd. Pulled 1/2 hour arrived first on a high point at the village then immediately round the point found the fort and was well re- ceived by Mr Kipp. the Am. F. Co. agent for the Mandans Stopped 2 hours took breakfast the[y] presented me some dry corn and some roasting ears. All these villages cultivate corn peas beans pumpkins ect. At 12 past 7 ock pulled a short distance when we had a good breeze and sailed until 5 ock then stopped to supper then floated from 6 until 12 ock then stopped owing to fog with head wind.
3rd. Floated 2 hours and stopped to Breakfast having found no game have lived much upon the stores we have taken from the forts above At the last place we were presented with some green corn which we are now roasting Makes us think of Old Lang Sine. We have had for four days rainy cloudy & foggy weather
our bed clothes are wet and musty in consequence after Break- fast pulled 6 hours when I thought best to go on shore to cook I sent a man out to hunt in the meantime as soon as he assended the high bank he perceived horses on the other side we after[- wards] counted 21 lodges and from the number of horses I have no doubt there might have been from 75 to 100. I immediately had the boat put into a little thicket and fortifyed as well as I could then went to fishing and spent the afternoon caught but two large catfish as soon as it was dark we proceeded forward with a high wind and a cloudy sky and no Moon all went well until we were just opposite the village when we perceived lodges and fires on our side also On seeing this I ste[e]red the boat to the middle of the river but unluckly took ground on a sand bar
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here we worked hard for some time to get off and had the Indi- ans seen or heard us her[e] we were in distance for shot from both sides and could have made little resistance but they did not and after some time we got off and glad we were. We proceed[ed] in all 4 hours pulled, then stopped for the night these were prob- ably the Aricarey and would have scalped us. I feared much for my Nez Perce for we could not speak to any Indian on the river and all would without explanation have made some fuss and per- haps have killed him.
4th. With almost a gale of wind from the W. pulled 6 hours and then stopped to eat having twice nearly upset in carrying sail and wet all our things after drying and eating started on still blowing fresh and pulled 3 hours then floated through the night II hours . It was a beautiful still night the stillness interrupted only by the neighing of the Elk the continual low of the Buffa- loe which we came to soon after starting the hooting of large owls and the screeching of small ones and occasionally the near- er noise of a beaver gnawing a tree or splashing into the water and even the gong like sound of the swan it was really poetical but sleep at last laid in his claim and I gave the helm to a man. Oak is now plenty in the Bottoms and for a few days past has been seen The upland along the river is here pretty good plumbs we occasionally see and have since we first took water on the Big Horn frequent squalls of rain yesterday.
5th. Pulled 7 hours stopped to eat pulled one more came to a deserted village on the S. bank fired two guns to see if there was any one in it but had no answer pulled one hour more then floated 7 hours more then pulled 3 to Breakfast saw in morn- ing a band of Elk playing like children in the water failed of killing any of them owing to the impatience of one of the men who fired too soon pulled through a dreadful rain 7 hours and camped wet and cold rained all night strong east wind.
6. In the morning made 8 hours pulling seeing an Elk on the sand Bar stopped and killed him very aceptable as we have had nothing to eat since yesterday noon and saved his horns for my best of friends Mr. F. Tudor of Boston pulled 2 hours more and the night being dark and appearance of a storm did not run.
7th. Last night about II ock was awakened by the water mak- ing a breach over the boat got her off the shore but was obliged to make the shore again on account of some of the men who were so frightened that if I had not they would have jumped overboard
laid the rest of the night on a lee shore thundering in a loud strain and raining at no allowance spent a most uncomfortable night an[d] rose in the morning benumbed with cold and all hands as dead as loggs started after eating at 8 ock and pulled until 2 ock when we had a fine breeze which gradual[1]y increased to a gale before which we scudded at a good rate almost despair- ing of seeing Fort Pier[r]e which we began to think we had pass-
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ed at about sundown we saw people on the hills which we sup- posed to be Inds. therefore kept on they fired but we did not choose to hear about an hour after sundown we smelt the flavor of coal and landed and found people who had just burned a kiln who informed us that the fort was 3 mils ahead we though[t] to go to sleep at the fort but soon found that night and a gale of wind was a poor time for travelling and also that 3 miles was in fact 3 leagues after being near filled by the surf and running afoul of several sand bars and getting overboard to push off we concluded to stop for the night which we did cold and tired and wet we spent the night as we best could one comfort plenty of elk meat stopped at 10 ock.
8. Made by sailing 3 miles and found Fort Pier[r]e pleasantly scituated on the right bank rather low but withall romantic were received with all hospitality imaginable by Mr. Laidlow who is in charge of the Am. F. Co. post here was much pleased by the order and regularity apparent about the place we stopped here for the day and visited Mr. and Mrs. Sublette who is scitua- ted about one mile below we here saw melons of two kinds corn pork cows horses and stacks of hay.
9th. Remained at the fort until about I ock. when we made by pulling 2 hours an Island 9 miles below the fort on which the Co. have about 15 acres of ground under cultivation here I re- mained all this day eating and drinking of the good things afford- ed by the earth and the cellars of the Co. Found cucumbers water & musk mellons beets -carrots potatoes onions corn and a good cabin and the Company of Mr. Laidlow and Doct.
Ioth. At 8 ock. began pulling the water has within two days risen about 2 feet in consequence of the rains which so an[nloyed me above and the surface of the water is covered with all manner of drift rubbish and the water as muddy as possible. Wind ahead all day but current much improved stopped at 6 ock at the com- mencement of the great Bend and remained all night.
IIth. Commenced pulling at 12 past 6 after having sent a hunter across the foot of the Bend and after 6 hours got past the Bend and found our hunters who had hid themselves in the brush being alarmed by seeing Inds. whom we also saw and gave some amunition to took them in and in two hours more came to the agency for the Sioux & Poncas Mr. Bean agent but not at the post we found it a miserable concern only three or four men but poorly fed and buildings out of order though new and shabbily built at best we were hospitably received by the young man in charge.
12. Pulled against a severe head wind 9 hours in hopes of . finding White River but camped without seeing it got plenty of good plumbs which were an object to stop for as we are about out of food and the vicinity almost destitute of game.
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13th Pulled against a severe wind 3 72 hours finding we did not make much headway laid by for the day.
14th. Blowing still fresh ahead we started and made 15 hours night and day continuing until 12 ock at night it was dark and we were nearly upset by a snag but our fears of starvation impel- led us to haste did not see an animal all day during the latter part of the night it rained in torrents and wet all our things and persons.
15th. Commenced pulling at 7 ock. Still blowing fresh ahead and raining a little about 3 ock cleared off and stopped to cook
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