USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 28
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5th. Clear warm day moved S. E. by E. 8 miles went. in search of Buffaloe found none Saw an old Blkft. Camp of 65 fires half as large as our present camp Saw several whirlwinds which raised the dust at a distance and appears much like smoke. Saw the three Butes come in sight one by one and then the Trois Tetons the Butes S. E. by S. 20 mils distant about so far this river rapid and little brush and no beaver grass worse and worse.
6th. Same Camp last night arrived 3 Kootenays with 25 beaver who left us on Flathead river being on foot the whole time last night sent out Indians to see in what direction were the most Buffaloe one came back this mng. reports cows to the S.
7th Moved E. N. E. 15 miles and without water the whole route the Trois Tetons bearing E. perhaps 90 miles distant over a level and dry plain without grass or extremely little in theaft- ernoon had a gale from the S. W. which blew down the lodges accompanied with a little rain and enough dust to suffocate one
on our left there is a range of high hills from which come numerous streams. but they sink in the plain and are warm and muddy went out this evening to bring in the meat of a cow killed in the forenoon and found a horse extremely fat it is sur- prising how fat a horse gets by being left to himself no groom-
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ing that I have ever seen will make a horse appear as beautiful as to be left to his own resources the Butes bear due S.
8th 5 miles N. following the same creek up which grows larger as we assend had a fine rain & Hail and Thunder today which is Sunday. Water very muddy grass little and but a little.
9th. 10 miles N. and following the creek has some tolerable wild[?] cotton wood and willow on it wind N. clear and windy
country same Three Nez Perces arrived at camp Bring news that Payette is with four Nez Perces Chiefs. Capt Serrey with 7 is detained by snow that the Blackfeet village is camped at the spot where we met the Nez Perces. We find that Payette will meet us at the forks Capt Serrey has got 31 horses this day a bull was run into camp which I shot at my lodge door To day an Indian was running bulls he turned the horse stopped and threw him the bull gored him into his chest so that his breath was made through the apparture by the help of the women he reached camp. When Mr. Ermatinger dressed his wound he very composedly made his will by word of mouth the Indians responding in concord at the end of each sentence. He appeared not in the least intimidated by the approach of death. I think the Indians die better than the whites perhaps they have less superstition in regard to the future and argue that as the deity makes them happy here he will also heareafter if there is existence for them.
Ioth. Same camp another Indian came to camp who had been looking out for the Blkft. He was ambuscaded by two of them and narrowly escaped by the goodness of his horse being wounded slightly in the nose.
IIth Same camp fresh news of the Blkft. Made horse pen that my horses might be safe. I do not apprehend any serious attack but only that they will come suddenly with a great noise of voices and guns and fright[en] the horses on such occasions horses become wild one frights another they run over the lodges this increases the confusion and the yelling firing and run- ing & snorting of 1200 Indians and 1800 horses is frightfull in- deed. Sometimes a camp with as many horses as the above loose every one it is commonly whole or none. Day warm, clear fresh wind W.
12th. Same camp warm day The Blackft camp about 15 mils from this they are very numerous.
13th. Same camp cloudy and cool with high wind from S. E. Blakft. still near but have attempted nothing yet. Child died in camp yesterday remains to bury today. Find I have missed one day in my journal which has been done while laying at some camp and accordingly date tomorrow the 15th.
15th Last night some Blackfoot fired into our camp a ball passed through a lodge some straggler disappointed of stealing
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horses I suppose. Moved N. N. E. 5 miles and camped on a creek now almost dry and soon will be wholly. There is little but cotton wood on this creek.
16th. 8 miles N. E. by N. to a small creek which about a mile below this joins another larger one. Country nearly level day windy S. W. wind cool and cloudy Trois Tetons bear E. S. E. Today saw the Indians carrying the man who was wound- ed by a Buffaloe no one could receive more attention, one person to carry water he was on a good bed made on poles the front of which like shafts were carried by a horse led by his wife
the hinder part by 6 men and women on their shoulders the camp moved slower than usual for him these things give a fav- orable impression of the Indians.
17th. Same camp rained very hard all last night and until 110011 of today an alarm of Blkft last night but I believe little of these things in so large a camp when it is known that there are Blkft. near a man straying out of camp is enough to give rise to a report and a report once raised it gathers like a snow ball.
18th. Same camp Severe hail & snow yesterday afternoon and rain most of last night and until noon today. Camp about out of provisions so we are in hopes of moving soon. Nothing but ne- cessity and that immediate will induce an Indian to do the least thing, any excuse serves to stop buisness with them and a small party of whites who are not strong enough to move alone will find in traveling with them occasion for all the patience they may have.
19th. 11% miles to the main rive here going S. W. this we found quite deep enough to ford for horses the mules I was ob- liged to unload and put the loads on the horses 3[?] miles more passed
three slews of our stream joining the last river mentioned. 3 miles more camped on another branch of it making 10% miles N. E. by E. day clear snow in patches in shaded places but the country green with herbage and mostly in blossom. All rocks for some days past volcanic. This stream looses itself in the plain.
20th. Moved rt miles E. by N. and camped on Kamas River so called from the abundance of that root in some spots it is so abundant as to exclude other vegetation. This Prairie is very ex- tensive perhaps 15 miles each way and is intersected by numerous little streams which form one going to the S. and ends in a small lake on the plain between this and Lewis river day clear & cool
frost last night snow on all the high hills Trois Tetons bear E. S. E. I should think about 80 miles distant found Buffaloe here the first for ro days when we found the last I think at least 100 were killed in one day 42 tongues were given to Mr. E. H. and myself.
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21st. Late last night arrived 5 hunters Pillew, Nasben, and Churboye and two Indians who left us on the head of the Mis- souri having seen plenty of recent sign of the Blkfeet but happily saw none they killed 94 Beaver. Today went out to hunt kill- ed one Bull. forenoon showers and lowery Kamas in bloom the Indians are taking large quantities of it this plain is extensive but about 7 miles across of it only is rich and that is as good as any land I ever saw the main plain is much of it bare rock the surface of which looks like a pan of milk when you push together the cream evidently it was once a fiery and fluid plain or lake of of lava, probably the whole plain between these mountains and the Trois Tetons the rock is porous like honey comb the sur- face shows plainly the heads of Basaltic colums and in some places the colums stand not perpendicular but at an angle of 50 degrees about, same camp.
22nd. Same camp arrived this mng. an express from Bon- neville this express came from the forks in three days they saw Blkft. by the way this afternoon Mr. Hodge left to go to Bon- neville day clear and warm Buffaloe were run into camp.
23rd. Sunday Indians singing and dancing as usual day warm and clear. These Inds. do nothing on Sunday.
24th. " Moved across the plain 3 miles N. E. Day warm and clear.
25th Yesterday at night some Inds. came in from hunting Buffaloe reported that they saw two Blkft. and fired on them at night we saw their fire in the Mts. Same camp fine clear warm day employed in making a saddle.
26th. Same camp went out hunting saw a few Buffaloe but killed nothing but a grouse as I had some dispute with Mr. David Douglass about the grouse of this country I subjoin a dis- cription; the bird had to pointed drab colored, mottled with white. tail feathers the outer edge of the feathers are only mottled until you approach their end when both sides are mottled under the tail are 10 or 12 dark brown feathers 2:3 as long as the tail feath- ers white at the termination. The tail feathers are about 8 inches long. The wing feathers are nearly white underneath and dark drab outside. From the head of the breast bone to the tail are many black feathers. On the body under the wings are redish grey feathers above the breast and nearly on the neck is a place devoid of feathers of a dirty olive color each side and a little be- low this is a tuff of short sharp pointed dirty white feathers they look as if they had been clipped with a shears. The tail feathers look as though they had been burnt off leaving the stalk of the quill projecting. The bill is short and curved downwards above the bare spot on the neck are short mottled feathers cream, white and black. It is feathered to the toes which are three and a small one behind. The hinder part of the leg is not feathered from the knee downwards Toe nails short and obscure, its back pretty
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uniformly mottled with deep brown dirty white approaching dirty vellow and dun colored weight 4 7/2 lbs. length from point of tail feathers to tip of bill 25 inches from tips of wings 3 12 ft. We were regaled by thunder shower on our return to camp saw Blkft. trail and a cow recently killed by them.
27th. Same camp nothing remarkable.
28th. Same camp nothing but lice and dirt. Cool today.
29th. Same camp as yesterday went out to hunt killed one Buffaloe which fell into the river and had to butcher him up to my middle in cold water. Some hunters who went out today came in with news that they had seen the Blkft. camp on Tobacco river one of the heads of the Missouri they say it is larger than ours.
30th Same camp Sunday Indians praying, dancing & sing- ing.
Ist July. Moved 2 miles S. and down the creek clear moder- ately warm day the first for three days nights have been frosty ice made in our pots & pails. Men came from Bonneville in the evening.
2nd. Moved S. 12 miles and camped on same creek on the way observed some fine luxuriant clover grass good about 9 miles down the creek w[h]ich rapidly increases in size from num- erous springs w[h]ich are of fine cold water we camped in a clus- ter of large cotton wood large for this place about 10 inches through.
3rd. Last night a Bear made his way into camp among the horses and gave a considerable alarm but was off before guns could he got out. Today moved 16 miles S. S. W. and camped on same creek with Mr. Bonneville with about 40 men bound for Green river. I have heretofore forgot to mention that at our camp of Ist July we left about 40 lodges of the Flatheads coun- try this days route dry and barren day warm.
4th. Same camp at night saw a band of Blackfeet a little above camp clear warm day.
5th. Same camp.
6th. Same camp very warm weather.
7th. This morning our camp forked in three directions Mr. Hodgkin[?] for a trapping excursion with the Nez Perces, Mr. Ermatinger with the Ponderays to go to Flathead river, ourselves East 18 miles to Henrys fork here wooded with narrow leafed cot- ton wood our route over a very dry plain passing at about half the distance some low hills of pure sand with not the least ap- pearance of vegetation. The party is 26 all told.
Sth. Followed up the river where we were much annoyed by mosquitos about 8 miles N. N. E. there forded it about belly deep
going E. by S. 5 mils to a large river which must be Lewis fork here we found Buffaloe these two rivers form a junction about 15 miles from this point as I believe near two butes but
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some say not until you get as low as Three Butes on. this river are not many mosquitoes.
9th. Made this day 2212 miles due East toward the Trois Te- tons at 8 miles struck a small creek with cut rock banks run- ning N. W. and to the river last crossed, which is not Lewis fork. At 20 miles cut a mountain which rises and is wooded to the S W. and diminishes to the plain to the N. E. We entered Pierre's Hole and camped on the N. W. side of it. Here we found Buf- faloe.
roth. Moved 12 miles S. E. crossing a difficult swamp and camped about 2 miles from the battle ground of last year with the Gros Ventres Day warm and a great quantity of grasshoppers for several days past so much so as to discolor the ground in many places.
uth. Started early and made 3 miles E. S. E. to the foot of the mountains then 8 miles E. S. E. to the summit then 6 miles E. to Lewis fork and i mile E. across it at the same place we crossed last year found it very high for fording but succeeded at last. Wind strong N. W. clear and moderately warm. Hors- es troubled with horse flies on the mountains but not in this plain
found buffaloe in the bottom also mosquitoes The river is here much choked up with islands and heaps of drift wood and a great quantity of mud in coming over the mountains lost one mule and sent a man back for it he has not returned yet [at] sundown
got a wet jacket in the river trying to find a ford. There is the trail of about 8 men who have passed through this defile be- fore us as I think about 14 days they marked a name on the trees and we suppose that they are men of Dripps & Fontenelle. We as yet see no appearance of the Blkft. except very old forts and lodges. Lewis fork here runs S. E. about 9 miles then turns S.
12th. This morning my man came back having been out all night he found the mule at our last camp. Made this day 9 miles S. E. along the river then 3 miles E. S. E. to a small creek running into the river. At this place 9 men under Capt. Stevens were attacked by about 30 Blkft. a little later than this time last year and several of them killed. Mr. Bonneville informs me that when he passed last year in August their bones were laying about the valley. I am apprehensive that More, a sick man whom I left in charge of Stevens, must be one of them. 6 miles more over a hilly broken limestone country S. E. to a considerable fork of Lewis river this stream is strongly impregnated with sulphur. This camp is almost without grass. In the first place this mori- ing we moved 3 miles and crossed a creek putting into the river. At our camp of to night there is a small branch joining the creek from the S. E.
13th. Fast 5 miles N. E. 16 mile through bad cut rocks on
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the N. side of the river there is also a trail on the S. side then 12 mile E. then 14 mile S. E. then following a left hand fork of the river a few rods N. E. crossed it and made E. 3 miles to the right hand fork again which we followed E. 2 miles then S. E. 4 miles to camp crossing it several times a good trail most of the way one horse of the Indians killed by falling from the cut rock trail down to the river in the first of the cut rocks there is a handsome cave rock lime & sand a few boulders of granite seen today as also on the E. side of the mountains of Pierres hole. The river which we followed this day is rapid and too deep below the branches to ford during the last of the route several small forks from cach side.
14th. Made 9 miles S. E. to the height of land between this river and Green river then 5 miles S. S. E. to a creek running in- to Green river. there are good trails all the way and to the di- vide much timber The creek on which we camped last night just above the camp divided into three forks. We followed the most southwardly for awhile then mounted the hill on the left side of it. There has been for two days a high range of Mts. on our left about 10 miles distant apparently of sand stone and limestone
these [trend] E. S. E. & N. N. W. and on the divide between this and Wind river also on our right there have been a range of Mts. of same composition about 15 mils distant. Both ranges have snow in patches Many alarms today but still no enemys killed plenty of Buffaloe.
15th. Made E. S. E. 12 miles to Green river and to Mr. Bon- nevilles fort day clear and fine. Found here collected Capt. Walker, Bonneville, Cerry, of one Co. Dripps & Fontenelle of the Am. Fur Co. Mr. Campbell just from St. Louis, Mess. Fitzpatric, Gervais, Milton Sublette of the Rocky Mountain Fur Co. and in all the Cos. about 300 whites and a small village of Snakes
here I got letters from home. During the last year among all the Cos there has been in all about 25 men killed two of my ori- ginal party with them, viz Mr More & O' Neil. [O' Neal?]
16th. Same camp.
17th. Moved 10 miles down the river S. E. it is here a large and rapid stream and to be forded only in a few places. Here we were followed by the Snake village we encamped with the Rocky Mountain Fur Co.
18th to the 24 remained at the same camp during which time the weather was pleasant and warm for several nights we were an[n]oyed by mad dogs or wolves which I cannot say but believe the latter as one was killed. I think one animal did the whole mischief as when men were bitten at one camp none were at the other about nine persons were bitten at Dripps & Fontenelles camp and three at ours. D. & Fs. camp is 4 miles above us on the same side of the river we hope he was not mad as no sim- tons have yet appeared.
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24th. Moved E. 12 miles cutting a small divide came to a wide valley parallel with Wind river Mts. in which we crossed 3 large creeks and camped on the 4th. which has much pine timber on it and is called Pine fork they all come into one quite soon by appearance and are not near as large as the main fork on which we first found the whites and which we have now cross- ed. In coming here it passed to our left that is up stream. Found plenty of Antelope and Bulls.
25th. Crossed the stream and moved E. S. E. 3 miles to a creek the same on which I made a cash last year and crossed at a good ford just below two stony hills then on 7 12 mile E. S. E. following a branch of the same creek and camped to noon. Buffaloe throwing the dust in the air in every direction and An- telope always in sight. This day a Mr. Worthington in running a bull fell from his horse, the Bull furious ran at the horse and passed him within 3 feet then turned again and passed him he having got up from the ground ran and escaped he killed the bull and found he had but one eye owing to which circumstance he escaped. Afternoon made S. E. 13 miles leaving the last creek of what is called New fork to which all the waters we have pass- ed since leaving rendes ous belong the one we camped on last night heads in a lake about 1 12 miles over and not far from where we slept. We now struck the west fork of Sandy and camped at an old camp of last year at a place where Ball left his rifle[?] Country covered with Buffaloe.
26th. Made S. E. 9 miles and camped on another fork of San- dy then S. E. by E. 15 miles to Sweet water all the country is granite from rendesvous so far Buffaloe quite plenty also Antel- ope Today shot a cow with a very young calf the calf ran after our mules for a long way until it found the difference.
27th. Made down the creek 1 1/2 miles E. S. E. then E. S miles to another branch of Sweet water then 6 miles E. by N. to another branch of same then down this branch S. E. 2 miles and camped. Saw one band of Elk and many Antelope plenty of Buffaloe.
28th. Made E. 2 mils to another Creek running S. by E. cross- ed made E. 6 miles E. by N. 4 miles at the creek a sort of slate prevailed but soon ran into a red sandstone passed at 1I mils a small pond to our right few Buffaloe today last night Capt. Stewart had some sport with a bear near our camp in the willows which he wounded but did not kill He represented him as large as a mule. In the afternoon made E. by N. 6 miles to Sweet water river then N. E. 3 miles up it and camped. I came ahead and found a white bear in a thickett and after firing a pis- tol and throwing stones into it started him out he came as though he meant to fight us but I gave him the shot of my rifle through the body He then rushed on us and I ran as fast as I could Mr.
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Kamel [Campbell?] snapped at him Mr Sublette ran also being on a mule
the bear followed us no great distance and turned and ran up creek some horsemen followed and killed him after putting 4 more balls into him.
29th. Same camp, rained all day two men went out to hunt and at night one returned alone the other in the morning being still absent.
30th. Started out to hunt the man and in about 8 miles came to the place hunted the whole country over and found nothing but a white bear the largest and the whitest I have yet seen run him about a mile and fired one shot but could not kill him. After a long ride returned to camp found the party had moved on followed them N. N. W. in 6 miles struck Po[r]poise in a small rapid thread running through sandstone banks this we followed N. W. 3 miles then N. by E. 9 miles more thousands of Buffaloe in sight and the red bottom of the streams deep and muddy with re- cent rains and found camp a little after sundown. The afternoon of the 29th we found lime rock almost entirely today sand stone and a kind of glassy stone resembling Carnelian a coarse kind of which I think it is.
3Ist N. N. W. 8 miles through a muddy Bottom and little grass to some large willows found a party of 4 whites who have lost their horses and one of them wounded in the head with a Ball and in the body with an arrow very badly they suppose the Snakes did it but I think not. Little grass. In the afternoon moved N. 9 miles to the junction of Great Po[r]poise river which comes from the S. W. then N. by E. 4 miles to the junction of Wind river which comes from the W. turning around as I supose and running along Wind River Mountains which run N. W. Al- together they form a large and muddy river but fordable now which is after a heavy rain.
Aug. Ist. Same camp find Mr. Bonneville camped a few miles above us. On farther inquiry I changed my opinion expressed above in regard to the Indians who stole the horses I think they were 15 Snakes who left our camp at Green river a few days be- fore we left that place. The case was this. Mr. Bridger sent 4 men to this river to look for us viz Mr. Smith, Thomson, Char- boneau a half breed and Evans. Two days before it happened 15 Inds came to them (Snakes) and after smoking departed the second day after they were gone Thompson having been out hunt- ing [hobbled?] his horse to the others and thought he would sit down by them until it was time to water them and having been on guard much of the time previous fell asleep he was waked by a noise among the horses which he supposed to [be] his comrades come to water them raising his head and opening his eyes the first thing that presented itself to his sight was the muzzle of a gun in the hands of an Indian it was immediately discharged
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and so near his head that the front piece of his cap alone saved his eyes from being put out by the powder the Ball entered the head outside of the.eye and breaking the cheek bone passing downward and lodged behind the ear in the neck this stunned him and while insensible an arrow was shot into him on the top of the shoulder downward which entered about 6 inches, the Inds got 7 horses all there were. Charboneau pursued them on foot but wet his gun in crossing a little stream and only snapped twice.
2nd. Found the river unfordable and assended to west cross- ing Po[r]poise & Wind river 5 miles up and made thence 20 miles N. E. by N. to a little creek going to Wind now on our right.
3rd. 11 miles N. N. E. to the summit of the mountains which are called little Wind River Mts. and run E. & W. then N. 5 miles to the river.
4th. 2 miles N. along the river to a clump of sweet cotton wood.
5th. 7 miles N. by W. to the River which between makes a considerable bend to the eastward camped in good grass and some large cotton wood trees this morning past beautiful camps aft- ernoon N. by E. 12 miles 3 horses found this day and yesterday
probably left by some party of Inds. who have passed this way
saw the tracks of several more we think that when the Crows stole horses of the Snakes last winter they came this route and left their animals on account of giving out for want of food in the snow. Few Buffaloe and those running indicates Indians near.
6th. N ro miles to the River again to noon found little grass
day cool afternoon 10 miles N. N. E. to the main river again. Since crossing the last Mts. we crossed a creek the second forenoon afternoon one yesterday 2 today 2 all small and I suppose sometimes dry
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