USA > Oregon > Sources of the history of Oregon > Part 30
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during meal time killed a fawn which was very good luck aft- er supper pulled 5 hours more and found a keel boat of the Am. F. Co. alongside of which we stopped for the night in the morn- ing of
16th. Put ahead with a fine wind not having been asked on board of her and immediately passed the Ponca village but I be- lieve not in its usual place saw and delivered a message to Mr. Sublettes agt. here and gave the Chief some tobacco. Made with a wind which as usual soon died away and pulling 13 hours when we ran on a sand bar and was unable in the dark to extricate her and slept all night on it the musquitoes almost murder us rain- ed most of the night.
17. Started at 5 ock. Pulled this day to hours rained some in the course of the day saw Powquet the first since leaving the states also mulberry trees Bass wood.
18th. Started early after a rainy night and pulled 10 hours saw wild Turkeys this evening but killed none nearly out of all kinds of provisions saw this day a herd of Elk tryed hard to get some but failed
19th. Made with a strong and fine wind 12 hours and camped without meat supped on a little flour boiled in water Saw dur- ing the day 3 deer looked with folly at them and fired two shots and they ran off.
20th. Stopped until 12 past 6 to hunt caughtone goose which we eat for breakfast afterward put ashore the hunters for game
they were fortunate enough to kill a fat doe on which we feast- ed right merryly and having lost so much time we concluded to run until the moon went down altho we were before informed that it was not safe a few hours we got along well enough but at last went over a snagg with limbs above which taking our mast and the boat swinging broadside she was taking in water at a jolly rate and in a little she would have gone with the suck un- der the rock I immediately had the mast cut away just in time to save her escaped from this I determined to try more we ran a little and were driven head foremost on a large tree lying across the river We stopped about midway and lay swinging like a pendulum with much danger and difficulty we extricated her not being yet discouraged we ran on but soon were driven into a
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large drift we narrowly escaped being carried under and half full of water and our oar broke we made the shore as soon as possible resolved to run no more nights, after making 10 12 hours.
21st. Made 9 hours with a head wind and camped at the old post of Council Bluffs it is now grown up with high weeds a memento of much money spent to little purpose it is a beautiful scituation the magazine and three or four chimneys only remain. . 22nd. After 5 hours in a dead current we arrived at a trading post of the Am. F. Co. Mr. Josh. Pilcher agent by whom we were entertained with the utmost hospitality I had met Mr. P. at St. Louis on my way out on this account I had much pleasure in stopping we found a good assortment of vegetables and a sup- ply of such things as we wanted. Dined with him and made three hours more and stopped to hunt Killed a fat deer and camped for the night.
23rd. Made 2 hours pulling and passed an agency 1% mile farther a trading post of Mess. Dripps & Fontenelle. Made in all 13 hours and camped during the day killed one deer from the Boat from Council Bluffs to this have found the Hic[k]ory Shagbark Sicamore and Coffee Bean trees not seen above also Night Shade Brier. Ducks Ge[e]se and Pelicans have been very numerous but shy for about 8 days stopped at the above trading post found only an old negro at home the rest out cutting wood. 24th. Made this day 10 12 hours Killed one goose saw plenty of deer
25th. Made II hours Killed one Turkey from the boat saw this day the first Pawpau fruit and trees wounded one deer from boat and stopped to search for him but without success
26th. Made II hours at 8 hours came to a trading house of the Am. F. Co. called Rubideau Fort at the Black Snake hills and on the N. bank of the river on a little rise of ground in the rear of a beautiful bottom. Today saw the Black Locust for the first time the lands are here quite fine and the hills as far back as we can see clothed with timber and verdure of the most luxuri- ant appearance the country is one of the most pleasant I have ever seen
27th. After 7 hours pulling arrived at the Cantonment Leaven- worth on the route we saw several Indian canoes with Squaws children ect. I had no letters of introduction at the fort and therefore could not expect any great extension of the laws of hospitality but was received with all the politeness that [could be] expected was offered all the stores which I might require by Leiut. Richardson the officer of the day. My boy Baptiste and the Indian wer[e] vacinated by Doct. Fellows. It was amusing to observe the actions of Baptiste, and the Indian when I went from the boat towards the Barracks the Boy followed me until I was hailed by the sentry at view of one so strangely attired and with a knife on the end of his gun he broke like a quarter Nag[?]
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crying Pegoni and the Indian was only prevented from taking the run also by being assured that he would not be harmed. I took the two to Doct Fellows quarters to be vaccinated the Docts wife and another lady happened to be present they were really beautiful women but the eyes of the two were riveted on the White Squaws Baptiste who speaks a little English told the oth- er Boys when he returned to the boat that he had seen a white squaw white as snow and so pretty.
28th. Made about 45 miles to Liberty where I found Mr. E. M. Samuel an old acquaintance who received me with all hospitali- ty' supplyed me w[it]h money and all that I wanted.
29th. Rained all day did not start
30. Went to the landing after breakfast a boat arrived going to the Garrison and joined her as I shall arrive at St Louisas soon by this means as any other and more comfortably
Shall close memorandum here with Boat I after[ward] return- ed to Leavenworth and was treated with great politeness by the officers of the garrison especially a Capt. Nichols who invited me to dinner.
Memo of distances on the Columbia according to the estimates of the English Traders.
From Boat encampment to Colville. 309 miles
Colville to Oakenagen 150
Oakenagen to Walla Walla .207
66
Walla Walla to Vancouver 203
Vancouver to Cape Disappointment .. 80
949 [with
pencil]
From Ermatinger.
للمزار
ـطـ الـ
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2nd JOURNAL. [With pencil.]
On the 5th of May having crossed the Kanzas at the agency without accident and in one Half of a day and traded as many cuds and apishemas[?] as I wanted and some deer skins for which I paid Bacon. We started with 3 less men 4 having deserted and one new one engaged. Made this day along the Kanzas about 16 miles on a small stream having crossed one called the Lautrelle
6th. Moved along the Kanzas and made about 12 miles to noon and took an observation found the Latt to be 39º 38' made this day about 18 miles
7th Made about 15 miles and camped on Little Vermillion
8th. In the morning Mr Sublette finding that his leg would not bear travelling turned back made this d[a]y about 15 miles This day left Kanzas River
9th. Made about 20 miles and camped on a small river this day our hunter killed our first deer
roth. Made 15 miles to Big Vermillion and then 5 miles more and camped in the praire with but little wood and a little stagnant water
II. Made 9 miles to a small run then lost the trailand crossed a sluggish muddy stream running N[?] and recrossed the same it rounding and heading North and camped at noon this day Latt. 40° 18'. Sent a man to hunt the trail.
12th. Spent the morning mending hobbles and endeavored to get an observation for Long. but it was too cloudy in afternoon started and in about 8 mils found a camp of Sublettes for nooning and marched until dark and camped the horses having had noth- ing to eat all day did not tie them up at I. ock at night was awakened by a furious running & snorting of the animals who all broke from their hobbles and left camp running in their course over any thing opposed to them spent the night in looking them up and found all but two about sun one hour high three Otoes came to us who I suppose occasioned the fright and got the two horses.
13. Started and travelled 7 hours and camped on a fork of the Blue and found the Long. to be 96° 7'.
14th. Made W. S. W. 21 miles and struck the main Blue
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15th. Made about W. 9 miles and found our Lat. to be +co 17' then made 12 mils W. by N. over a very level prairie and again struck the main Blue and camped
16th. Made 10 miles about W. by N. to Dinner Latt. 40º 23' and :2 more to the Pawnee trail to the head of the Ar- kanzas and found that a very large party had passed it about 10 days before and a smaller one this morning.
17th. Made 3 miles up the stream crossing a very small run course W. by N. then struck out N. W. 3 miles and crossed a little run the same as passed in the morning then same course 6 mils and took an observation for Latt and found it to be 40° 22' then 5 mils more same course and got sight of the Platte then W. N. W. 5 mils to the river and camped
18th. Raining in morning caught some Cat fish found fresh track of Indians a small party
19th. Rained hard all day moved camp 15 miles to a small grove of timber on the main land found our horses very skittish during the night.
20th. In the morning had just raised camp when we discover- ed two Indians who were shy of coming to us but after a while suffered us to approach them they said they were Pawnees but as we did not not know the Pawnees this might be so or not per- haps Ricarees afterward saw several more on the blufs who did not come to us at noon found our Lat. 43º I' after traveling 13 miles W. N. [?] in the afternoon traveled 13 miles W. and found our Long. to be 98° 30' this night doubled guard.
2Ist. Moved camp from the pickett and 12 miles W. to break- fast fine clear weather old Buffaloe sign and antelope after dinner started and soon saw a band of elk one loose horse took fright at them and ran back on our trail there being no person mounted on a swift horse in camp I followed myself after going to a little creek where we nooned they struck out S. 15 miles to the heads of some little streams with timber probably the Blue where I overtook three of them my horse having failed I lost 2 fine horses. After riding about 12 miles found the Platte at our nights camp and followed it to the camp making in all a ride of about 50 miles arrived about midnight camp moved on II miles.
22nd. Moved about N. 10 miles Lat. 40° 33' afternoon 10 miles W. and camped after a little 3 Pawnee Scouts came to us and slept with us in the morning 12 more came and wished to persuade me to go to their camp 1 16 days travel N. over the riv- er which they forded here they stole some small things from us
23rd. Moved from the pickett and 15 miles W. about to Latt. just before nooning passed a little creek then West TI miles and camped.
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24th. 20 miles W. to the crossing of the South fork of the Platte about 8 miles above the forks found Latt. to be 40° 41'
25th. Crossed without difficulty and made up the N. side of the South Fork about 4 miles W. then struck N. W. about I mile to the North fork which is here the largest then made about W. by N. about 15 miles and near to some cut blufs which come close to the river
26th. W. by N. 12 mils passing another place where the blufs cut the river and here found much cedar on them and camped on the river in a wide bottom found no Buffaloe today killed one ante- lope. Afternoon 10 miles W. N. W. at night found the variation of the compass 1º 30' west at midnight our horses took fright but being strongly picketed and hobbled but few got out of camp.
26th. I date this the 26th having over noted one day hereto- fore in afternoon 12 miles W. N. W. passing some steep cut blufs which cut the river afternoon made 12 mils and camped still no buffaloe Latt. 40° 22' at night.
27th. Made this day 20 mils during a severe gale from the N. N. W. the sand cut like a knife and it was altogether a most disagreeable day this day saw a little timber on some hills to the south of the river about 5 miles distant also 2 bands of wild . horses killed one Bull so poor as to [be] uneatable.
28th. Killed Buffaloe plenty today Came in sight of the chimney about noon made 22 mils wind still high N. N. W. One of our outriders saw six Indians mounted today.
29th. No[o]ned at the Chimney Lat. 41º 5!' After travel- ling this forenoon ur miles afternoon 10 mils
30th. Passed through between two high blufs through a pret- ty good pass and avoided going between one of them and the river where there are bad ravines. Made this day 22 miles to Horse creek.
3Ist Made after crossing Horse creek at starting about 20 miles.
June Ist. Made 15 miles to Laramies fork just before coming to which we made a cut off of about 3 miles over and about 5 miles by the river forded this fork with ease and made 8 miles up the Platte in afternoon. At the crossing we found 13 of Sub- lettes men camped for the purpose of building a fort he having gone ahead with his best animals and the residue of his goods he left about 14 loads
2nd. Made along the river 5 miles then struck out into the hills about W. N. W. and made 12 miles to a little creek in the afternoon made 13 miles to pretty large creek and camped for the night the whole course this day about W. N. W. Left at Noon camp a bull and cow whose feet had worn out.
3rd. Made 15 miles and nooned on the river this course N. W. by N. and cut over the hills about Is the way the river tak-
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ing a bend quite to the N. and passing through bad rocks. After- noon made 6 miles cutting two very bad blufs but still following the river and camped on it
4th. Forded the river and made W. N. W. 17 miles along the river and camped on it Sublette one day ahead.
5th. Made along the river 24 miles along the River
6th. Made along the river 24 miles W by N.
7th. Made 12 miles along the river to the red Butes so called and is the place at which the river turns S. W. and we leave to strike for Sweet Water Sublette 2 days ahead weather chilly and windy. Poor grass for several days.
8th. This morning I had intended to have turned out the horses at 2 ock. and guarded them but during the night the horses appeared uneasy and appeared to think there were Indians about which induced me to keep them up until sunrise when we started W. S. W. from the Red Butes and made IS miles to the high ridge of land and then one point more to the South and 12 miles more to a small creek with poor grass Several of the horses nearly done up for want of grass and from fatigue this day kill- ed two grisly bears and many Buffaloe a little shower toward night
9th. Made S. W. 10 miles and made Rock Independence on which W. L. Sublette had noted that he had arrived on the 6th but I think he could not have done so before the 7th. I noted my name then made S. W. along the creek 4 12 miles to a place where the creek puts through cut rocks each side perpendicular and about 60 feet high the trail goes through another place on a level and about 100 feet South of the river the rock interven- ing then made 6 miles W. S. W. between mountains but on a level and along the creek.
roth. General courses W. S. W. and along Sweet Water high granite hills on each side made 25 miles
IIth. W. Io mils then N. W. 9 mils to camp on Sweet Water
12th. S. W. forenoon a cut off of ro miles to Sweet Water afternoon S. W. 9 miles along Sweet Water. Long. 110º 30 ..
13th 3 miles along Sweetwater S. W. then took up a ravine to the W. N. W. about i mile then W. by S. 9 miles to a creek of Sweet Water run[n]ing into it about 8 miles off and S. E. then W. by S. 7 miles to another creek of Sweet Water running about S. E. and emtying into it at about 10 miles Sweet Water appears to run in cut rocks
15th. Made due West 5 mils and crossed a small creek of Sweet Water which comes from a point of granite rocks about 2 miles from which we passed then W. 7 mils to a spring of good cold water and good grass. Wind river mountains now bear N.
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N. W. and a[re] covered with snow about 20 mils distant, Latt. 42º 44' Afternoon made W. 6 miles to Sweet Water creek main body going about S. E. and coming out of cut rocks then W. by S. 16 miles over broken ground to one fork of Sandy run- ning S. by E. here horses wer[e] tired Buffaloe plenty.
15th. W. N. W. 9 miles to Big Sandy where we found Buf- faloe plenty My hunters not yet come in been out 4 days fear- ful they have been scalped.
16th. Made down the Sandy S. W. by W. 15 miles then 4 S. E. by E and camped on this stream so far the grass is miserable and the horses are starving and also at last nights camp they eat something that has made many of them sick. the same thing happened two year since on the next creek west.
17th. S. S. W. 10 miles down Sandy which makes here a bend to the right afternoon S. 9 miles passing at three miles the mouth of little Sandy and camped without any grass
18th. 12 miles in the forenoon S. S. W. making small cut off afternoon W. S. W. 7 miles camped in good grass.
19th. About S. by W. 8 miles and camped I mile above the mouth of Sandy on Green river or Seckkedee on the night of the [7th I left camp to hunt Fitzpatric and slept on the prairie in morning struck Green river and went down to the forks and find- ing nothing went up again and found rendesvous about 12 miles up and much to my astonishment the goods which I had contract- ed to bring up to the Rocky Mountain fur Co. were refused by those honorable gentlemen. Latt. 41º 30'.
20th. Made W. S. W. 8 miles then S. by E. 15 miles to Hams Fork running here S. E. and a small stream.
21. Same camp.
22d. Same camp
27th. Moved up the river N. W. 10 miles grass here pretty good but little timber and none but willows for the last 6 miles.
To 3rd. July. Same camp then up Hams Fork 10 miles N. W. moved up the fork about W. by S. 12 miles too many Indians with us for comfort or safety they let their horses among ours so that it is impossible to guard any of them.
4th. Moved up the creek about I mile then leaving it made W. by N. over a divide and by a pass which occurs in the lowest part of a high range of hills 7 miles then W. 13 miles down a ravine which had a little water in it to its junction with another small run and the two are called Muddy here we celebrated the 4th I gave the men too much alcohol for peace took a pretty hearty spree myself. At the camp we found Mr. Cerry and Mr. Walker who were returning to St. Louis with the furs collected by Mr. Bonnevilles company about 10 pack and men going down to whom there is due 10,000$
5th. Made down Muddy 5 miles W. then N. W. cutting a divide into a small ravine which has a little water in it 8 miles
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then leaving the ravine cutting moderately high land to Bear riv- er 4 miles. Then down Bear river N. by W. 4 miles to camp
6th. Made down the river N. N. W. 5 miles to Smiths Fork which is a short stream from the N. E. by N. and nearly as large as Bear river then same course 3 miles more then N. W. 5 miles here comes in Kamas creek from the N. then W. N. W. 3 and crossed Bear river three more and recrossed then cut over some high hills same course 8 miles more and struck the river again then down the river same course I mile to camp nothing to eat due south of this camp about 5 miles is the little lake so called which is about 20 miles long.
7th. Made 3 miles N. N. W. and passed a little creek the same course 6 miles along the river, then 3 miles N. W. to camp all day fine grass. During this day a multitude of fine springs coming into the river. today killed one bull.
8th. Made N. W. 10 miles then Io miles W. N. W. toa place where there is soda spring or I may say 50 of them. These springs throw out lime which deposits and forms little hillocks of a yel- lowish colored stone there is also here a warm spring which throws water with a jet which is like Bilge water in taste there is also here peet beds which sometimes take fire and leave behind a deep light ashes in which animals mire Killed one Bull today but so poor as to be hardly eatable having in the course of the day lost a horse will remain here to hunt him up
9th. Same camp assended a mountain and from it could see that Bear river took a short turn round sheep rock about 2 miles below the spouting steam and goes south as far as I could see there are in this place many hundreds of mounds of yellowish stone with a crater on top formed by the deposits of the impreg- nated waters of this place. Killed one Buffaloe.
roth. Moved N. by W 3 mils cutting a range of hills then N. N. W. 17 miles to Blackfoot on which I found Bon[n ]eville again and plenty of Buffaloe and killed 3 Grisly Bears during the day passed many small funnel shaped holes in the lava hav- ing the appearance of small craters.
IIth. Made W. 6 miles cutting a range of hills then following in a valley formed by these hills and another range Made W. N. W. Io miles to a little brook running N. by W. to camp Buf- faloe today saw one Blackfoot on foot in the hills who ran like a good fellow.
12th. Made W. 3 miles and came upon a small creek which was said to be Portneuf it may possibly be the same water as that we camped on last night but running S. by E crossed this and a high range of hills and struck a stream which is said to be Ross creek this runs about W. after 9 miles more camped saw but few Buffaloe today.
13th. No Buffaloe saw elk on Snake River which we struck
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after 6 miles W'. by N. in some small slew saw a great quanti- ty of fine trout about 2 lbs. weight
14th. Went down the river about 3 miles and found a location for a fort and succeeded and killed a Buffaloe near the spot
15. Commenced building the fort and sent out 12 men to hunt to be gone 12 days and continued at work on the fort a few days and fell short of provisions ard was obliged to knock off in order to obtain food sent out some men tor Buffaloe they returned in two days with plenty. The 12 returned the 28th day at night. On the 26th a Frenchman named Kanseau was killed horse racing and the 27th was buried near the fort he belonged to Mr. Mc- Kays camp and his comrades erected a decent tomb for him service for him was performed by the Canadians in the Catholic form by Mr. Lee in the Protestant form and by the Indians in their form as he had Indian family. he at least was well buried.
30 Mr. Mckay left us and Mr Lee and Capt. Stewart with him
6th. Having done as much as was requisite for safety to the Fort and drank a bale of liquor and named it Fort Hall in honor of the oldest partner of our concern we left it and with it Mr. Evans in charge of 11 men and 14 horses and mules and three cows we went down the river S. W.4 miles and found a ford crossed and made N. W. 7 miles to the head of a spring and camped in all 29 strong. Fort Hall is in Latt. 43º 14' Long. 113º 35'
7th. Started at day light and traveled 10 hours as fast as pos- sible N. W. by W. 30 miles to the Bute. being the most south- wardly one and from it the other two Butes bear N. N. E. the farther about 20 miles off the other midway the Three Tetons about roo miles off and bearing N. E. the day was hot and we suffered some for water and found but a small supply on the N. side of the Bute a miserable chance for our horses and not a good one for ourselves
8th. Started at sunrise and made N. W. ro miles to Godins river then crossed it and made in the same direction 12 up the riv- er and camped in fine grass where we struck the river there is no grass nor until we camped above I am told it is fine found no appearance of buffaloe
9th. Made due W. 16 miles striking for the N. side of it a pretty high hill and struck up the mountains close on the N.side of it then wound into the mountains in a S. W. course finding water several times and cutting a divide struck a small thread of water at 5 mils this we followed 3 miles N. W. and struck a pretty large creek which we followed N. N. E. I mile and camped just at starting killed a Bull and separated from Abbot and a small party of trappers accompanied by Antoine Godin whom I sent out for Beaver.
roth. Made 7 mils down the creek N. N. E. to Godins river the same we left day before yesterday then N. W. 3 miles then
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West 14 miles today saw a large fire in the mountains on our left suppose them to be Diggers keeping for safety in the hills
the Blackfeet trouble them even here saw one band of Buffoloe cows today killed one calf the party I parted from viz Antoine and Abbot are before us on this river.
IIth. Made W. 9 miles then 18 S W the angle of the two courses occurs at what is called the Spring prairie which is about Io miles over in the center of which there are three tolerable Butes these Butes when you approach from the East look like three but when from the West show but as two this day killed an old Bull very strong
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