USA > California > San Francisco County > San Francisco > Colville's San Francisco directory for the year commencing 1856-1857 > Part 3
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We have passed over the minor events of a few years, the earthquake of 1812 and of subsequent dates ; the torrents of rain which flooded the land in 1824 and 1825; the squabbles of the inhabitants; the trifling excitements, which scarcely broke the monotony of the place, -this not being intended as a history, but only a sketch, and what most concerns the public, are the data which mark the growth of the Ameri- can city.
In May, 1836, Mr. Jacob P. Leese arrived at Yerba Buena, for the purpose of locating aud commencing business as one of a firm, his partners to reside at Monterey. Finding that an ordinance of Governor Figueroa prevented him from obtaining a grant of land within two hundred varas of the beach around the harbor, he returned to Monterey, obtained from Governor Chico the necessary authority for selecting such a position as he should consider best suited to his purposes, returned to Yerba Buena on the first of July succeeding, landed his lumber, and at once selected a hundred vara lot, on which the St. Francis Hotel was subsequently built, and by the Fourth of July had his house-the first real house of the future city-finished. The building of the house, the arrival of Mr. Leese, the " glorious Fourth," the beginning of a great city -perhaps of a great empire-were all celebrated by Messrs. Rich- ardson and Leese, and as many others, American and Mexican, as could be assembled, by a grand banquet and ball-the first ball on the Fourth of July celebrated publicly in the place. Omen-lovers may find in the fact food for their faith. Captain Hinck- ley, of the American bark Don Quixotte, together with the captains of other vessels, American and Mexican, then in the harbor, supplied the decorations of flags of both countries, the band of music from the Don Quixote, and two cannon were obtained from the Presidio. There were present more than half a hundred of the most respectable inhabitants and strangers ; a grand dinner was served, toasts were drank, a ball followed ; they were all happy; they made a night of it ; they prolonged the session, as do our members of Congress on the third of March, late into the subse- quent day. American civilization, trade, amity and pleasure were thus inaugurated.
During the year 1838 Mr. Leese erected a large building on the spot which is now the corner of Commercial and Montgomery streets. Captain Richardson, during this year also, erected the adobe house formerly known as the "Casa Grande," near. where the Adelphi Theater now stands, a short distance west of the line of Dupont Street, between Washington and Clay Streets. After standing seventeen years, it was taken down to give place to more modern structures, and thus the most noted of the
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old Mexican landmarks disappeared ; for although not erected by a Mexican, it was of truly Mexican architecture, and indicative of Mexican supremacy at its beginning. On the 15th of April, of this year (1838,) a daughter was born to Mrs. Leese, which was named ROSALIE, the first child of civilized parents born in Yerba Buena. The mother-a sister of General M. G. Vallejo-Mr. Leese had married on the seventh of the preceding April. In 1839 the first survey of Yerba Buena was made by Captain Juan Vioget, by order of Governor Alvarado, covering only the space now included principally within the boundaries of Pacific, Montgomery, Sacramento and Dupont Streets. In 1841 Mr. Leese sold out all, or a portion of his real estate, to the Hudson Bay Company, and removed to Sonoma. Three years later the place contained only ten or twelve houses and some fifty people ; two years later still, the Hudson Bay Company broke up their establishment and departed. This, however, did not appear to have exercised any injurious effect on the place, as buildings and population had, by the close of the year, quadrupled within two years, and from this time the increase was still more rapid ; for, on the 8th of July, the American flag had been hoisted in the Plaza, by Captain Montgomery, of the American sloop-of- war Portsmouth, in obedience to the command of Commodore Sloat, who had run up the same ensign on the previous day at Monterey. Under that flag population rapidly gathered ; its shadow was a protection, and in its flutterings people heard the murmurs of approaching empire, wealth, freedom and prosperity. On the last day of the same month the ship Brooklyn, with a large complement of Mormon and other passengers, arrived in San Francisco. This may be considered the vanguard of the fleet of immigrant-loaded ships which, for years, came loaded with their adventurous, living cargoes.
Little occurred worthy of notice during the remainder of 1846. The populatiou gradually increased and took the form of society; balls were given; Commodore Stockton received a public reception, foreigners and natives joining heartily in the compliment, and general quiet prevailed. With the American people the printing press goes in the van of emigration, and the newspaper is quite likely to give notice of the first sermon to be preached. Yerba Buena, peopled mostly by Americans aud Europeans, not only had felt for some time the need of a newspaper, but, by 1847, was considered sufficiently able to support one. On the 7th of January of that year, Mr. Samuel Brannan published the first number of the " California Star," which was edited by Dr. E. P. Jones. It was published weekly-a small but prettily-got-up paper for a new country, " so far away from home !" This was the second newspaper published in the State, the "Californian" having been commenced in Monterey as early as August 15th, 1846, by Messrs. Colton and Semple. On the 22d of May, Mr. Semple transferred the publication of his paper to Yerba Buena, which, by that time, had almost eclipsed Monterey.
On the 30th of January, 1847, the settlement of Yerba Buena was christened San Francisco-the old name being dropped-by authority of an ordinance issued by Washington A. Bartlett, Chief Magistrate, or Alcalde-being the first person holding that office under the American rule. Being ordered to his ship, Mr. George Hyde acted temporarily as Alcalde. On the 22d of February, 1847, Mr. Edwin Bryant, subsequently author of " What I saw in California," was sworn into office as succes- sor to Mr. Bartlett.
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A regiment of volunteers had been raised in New York City, during 1846, for service in California, under command of Col. J. D. Stevenson. The first detachment, with its commander, reached San Francisco on the 6th of March, in the ship Thomas H. Perkins. Many of the officers, as well as privates of this regiment, still remain in the State, not a few having filled very important positions. A strong American sentiment, as well as population, now ruled in the town. This feeling was strongly expressed on the 28th of May, when the place was illuminated for the first time, in honor of Gen. Taylor's victory at Buena Vista. On this occasion there was a great consumption of whatever could produce light and noise. Tallow, oil, tar, powder, lungs,-all were brought into requisition, and houses, hill-sides, shipping, air and sea, were lighted up with a blaze and a glow of light only equaled by the patriotism which thus found expression.
General Kearny, Governor of California, having by decree, on the 10th of March, released to the people and town of San Francisco the interest of the United States in the beach and water lots on the east front of the town, between Clark's and Rincon Points, they were advertised for sale on the 10th day of June, by authority of Alcalde Bryant, on the 16th of March. The sale was postponed until the 20th of July, when nearly one-half of the four hundred and fifty lots were sold, at prices varying from fifty to one hundred dollars. In the course of five or six years some of those lots were valued at more than fifty thousand dollars, and we believe changed hands at even higher prices. The upland lots, fifty varas square, during this summer, had been disposed of at twelve dollars each, which, with costs of recording, etc., amounted to sixteen dollars. It was but a short time before many of these lots were worth and sold at sixteen thousand dollars each, and some of them soon commanded prices having too much the sound of the fabulous to be here stated. The provision which restricted any one person from holding more than a fifty, or a hundred vara lot, was evaded by speculators ; and alcaldes and council, catching the speculative mania, and, at the same time, laying aside conscience as a profitless encumbrance, soon rescinded the anti-land grabbing regulation, and plunged head-foremost into land- jobbing and speculation. A few men then seized almost the entire domain, grew suddenly immensely rich, created a land aristocracy, and reduced all others to the necessity of paying immense prices for building lots, or still more enormous ones in the shape of rent. The Mexican system was the rational one, and had the same or a similar one prevailed, limiting each of our own inhabitants to a single lot, the city of San Francisco would have been worth more by millions than it is to-day. There is no monopoly so detrimental to the prosperity of a community as a monopoly of land.
In June of this year the population amounted to about four hundred and sixty, of which nearly one hundred and forty were females, the bulk of the inhabitants being composed of persons in the prime of life, or of still immature years; au ardent, daring, adventurous population, one-half of American birth, and the rest hailing from nearly all the nations of the earth. Thus early was the place in its population a fair specimen of what it has continued, with the exception, perhaps, that the American element has gradually gained in relative proportion upon the foreign. Certain crosses of blood in the horse and other animals are known to improve the stock. It is so with mankind. Whether it will prove so with the people of this city, can be
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better decided some years hence. But as certainly as the mingling of the Crusaders with the people of other than their own countrymen, was the means of advancing the civilization of Europe, and changing, eventually, its " Dark Ages" into the clearer light of modern civilization, art, science, literature and liberty, so surely may we anticipate that the knowledge gained from the opportunities here enjoyed, of studying the characteristics of other nations without travelling abroad, and appropriating to our own use whatever of intelectual or mechanical superiority they may exhibit among us, will tend still further to advance our own knowledge, and more rapidly develop the resources of city, state and people.
The public business of the town having much increased, Governor Mason ordered the Alcalde, Mr. George Hyde, to hold a meeting for the election of six persons to assist him in the government of the town. These persons were to constitute the ayuntamiento. The Alcalde had previously appointed six to hold office until super- ceded by those elected by the people. The election took place on the 13th of Sep- tember. Much blame has been heaped upon the government thus formed. They doubtless did some unwise acts ; it may be, some deserving a harsher term, for they were men. But when it is recollected that they had to bring order out of chaos, per- haps a milder and more just estimate of what they did will prevail. At least, a portion of the council were men of honesty of purpose, unimpeached and unimpeachable.
Steam, like the press, goes with the Americans as one of their institutions. In November the first steamboat which honored the bay, made an experimental trip. The exports during the last three months of this year amounted to within a fraction of fifty thousand dollars, and the imports to something more than that sum. Early in January, 1848, an attempt was made by the ayuntamiento to suppress gambling, by resolutions authorizing fines and confiscation. But the next meeting of the council repealed these resolutions-through what influences they were actuated, is not quite clear. Gradually the town assumed a more and more commercial character. A wholesale prices current was published on the 15th of March. Gradually, too, the population increased, and now amounted to more than eight hundred persons, sixty of whom were children of an age capable of attending the sohool which was opened soon afterwards, viz., on the 3d of April, under the charge of Mr. Thomas Douglas. On the same day, Dr. J. Townsend became Alcalde, Mr. Hyde having resigned. The town was slowly rising to the dignity of "a place." It already had several mer- cantile firms, places of amusement, public houses, and, according to appearances, promised, in the course of one or two decades, to become perhaps a city with half a score of thousands of inhabitants. Suddenly into this quietly-progressing community, as into the conclave of the gods, came the same tempter, gold. In January it had been discovered at Coloma, on the American River. Rumors of the discovery and particles of the dust occasionally reached San Francisco. Soon miners, with sud- denly-acquired "piles," arrived, and then the race for wealth commenced. All other occupations at once lost their charm. Gold dazzled the eyes and the imagination, and the three beauties of heathen mythology were eclipsed in speed and fervor by the new pursuers of the tempting fruit. In this modern contest, however, the golden apple was not dedicated to "the most beautiful." Strong hearts and willing hands, industry, perseverance, energy, hope, and, as some believe, luck, decided who should be successful.
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Thus commenced a human stampede such as few things less than an avalanche, an earthquake, a conquering army, or a flood, could produce. Who would drudge and fag at dry goods, at the press, on ship or on shore, for wages which seemed a mere pittance when contrasted with the fabulous wealth which lay in the beds and banks of the streams, ready to bestow a golden smile upon the wooer ? Away went laborer and mechanic. Away went clerk and merchant. Business in the town stood still. Tents were empty-houses shut up. The turkey buzzard alighted in the streets ; grass grew where men had trod; ships lay at anchor without a keeper; the town was almost depopulated. The newspapers ceased their issues, for the printers and pressmen had fled like people from the plague of London, and the editor exchanged the quill for the crowbar, the scissors for the pick, and, instead of writing leaders upon the supplies of gold, he rushed to the mines and washed it from his pan. The people of the place having left, off went the government also. The town was almost deserted. After awhile, the "Californian" revives, and is issued once more on the 15th of July. Nearly a month later a grand illumination in honor of the peace with Mexico, occurred on the 11th of August. Something later, viz., on the 9th of September, a public meeting decided that sixteen dollars an ounce should be the rate at which gold dust should be received in business transactions, and it was resolved to urge upon Congress the establishment of a mint in the town, so confident were the people, many of whom had returned from the mines, that the supply would be enormous.
On the 1st of November, Rev. T. Dwight Hunt was elected chaplain, to preach to the citizens in the school-house, on the south-west corner of the Plaza. Prices of provisions were high, wages also still advancing. Real estate did not follow the usual increase in prices ; it may be said to have jumped from low figures to princely sums, doubling in the space of twenty-four hours, and even in many instances at a still more rapid rate. Cargoes of goods were landed-the duties during the year amounting to nearly $200,000 ; the goods imported, to nearly a million of dollars in value ; coin to an equal amount, and the export of gold for the last half of the year reaching two millions of dollars. Since then it has reached more than twice that amount monthly. As might be anticipated, the world was stirred at such a result so soon after the discovery, and the thousands of adventurers throughout civilization had already begun to prepare for their emigration.
Many who had tried their luck in the mines, returned to San Francisco. Even their great success in obtaining gold could not compensate all for their privations ; the exposure, the sickness, the hard labor and harder fare, which fell to their lot. And the shrewd trader saw that rich as were the gold placers, a richer field for accu- mulating wealth lay open before him in the town itself. The great prices and great rise in various kinds of goods, provisions and other necessaries of life, opened the brightest prospects for those who preferred trade to gold-hunting. He saw, also, that immigration from the nearest territories was but a mite to that which would flow in from abroad, when the wild reports of abundant gold should reach and be accredited in the Eastern States, in Europe, and among the eastern nations of Asia. Very wisely some chose the placers in the town in which to coin fortunes, instead of the ravines and river beds, where they might dig the raw material. So they remained. Experience proved the wisdom of their choice. The profits of some firms were
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enormous. Fortunes were acquired in a year through trade. For soon the influx of strangers became enormous. The key note was struck. The music had gone abroad, and the echoes were heard returning in the voices of hundreds of thousands of gold- seekers, and the sounds of trade and business which their advent made. Cadmus had sowed the dragon's teeth, and now sprung up on all sides men armed for the combat- the battle for gold against every obstacle-ocean daugers, long voyages, dangerous travel, deserts, Indians, sickness, hunger, thirst, starvation, heat, cold, toil, absence, isolation, death. The nations were stirred, the sea was alive with ships, the ships with multitudes ; the deserts heard human voices; the mountains felt the rushing tread of westward-moving myriads; and soon this host were to touch the shores, tread the sands and make busy the streets, tents and stores of San Francisco.
The " Star and Californian" newspaper, which had succeeded the " California Star" and "Californian," uniting the two offices during the latter part of 1848, became the "Alta California" on the 4th of January, 1849. After the middle of this month, when an election for a new town-council had been held, the civil aspect of the town was rather mixed and uncertain, there being three councils, each claiming to be the legitimate one. That of the early part of 1848 finally yielded to the one chosen on the 15th of January, but the one chosen on December 27th still held out. Finally a compromise was effected through a public meeting; the members of both councils resigned, and fourteen new members were elected for the council, and three as jus- tices, on the 21st of February. On the last day of February the steamship California, the pioneer of the mail steamers of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, arrived. and was warmly received. On the 31st of March arrived the steamship Oregon, bringing the first regular mail and the first postmaster for San Francisco-Col. John W. Geary. During the first half of this year the municipal affairs of the place were in chaos. There was, indeed, no settled government-the people opposing the claims of Mr. Leavenworth, the Alcalde, and Governor Riley supporting him. However, the Governor finally issued his proclamation for an election on the 1st of August for municipal and other officers, and for delegates to form a State Constitution. The people held a meeting, denied the right of Governor Riley to appoint the time and place for election of delegates, yet acquiesced, as a matter of policy, in his proposal or order. The legislative council finally dissolved, and left the Alcalde and his council in undisputed sway.
The population was fast increasing, the harbor was fast filling with ships, the immi- grants were coming by thousands, improvements were progressing rapidly, and business was exceedingly brisk and profitable. Fresh comers made their purchases and left for the mines ; successful miners returned with their quickly-acquired fortunes, to spend their gold at the gaming table, or in other modes of dissipation, or to appropriate it in purchases for the mining trade, lands, or buildings. The people as yet were like one of the tribes of Israel, living in tents ; or like the Arabs, sleeping in the air and on the sand. Everything went with a rush. Society there was none. As in Israel at one time, " every man did that which seemed good in his own eyes." By midsummer, disorder reigned ; lawless persons became a terror to the well-disposed, and, having formed themselves into a kind of organization known as the "Hounds," spread terror and dismay through a town by this time having a population of at least five thousand persons. They committed all sorts of outrages,
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attacking and robbing tents and stores, and helped themselves to whatever they fancied, without money and without price. Their outrageous conduct at length aroused the inhabitants, and they formed themselves into a kind of police and mili- tary organization, seized numbers of the "Hounds," or " Regulators," as they styled themselves, put them upon trial before a court which the community instituted, found nine of them guilty of robbery and other crimes, and punished them with imprison- ment and fines. This organization of the people may be considered the first Vigi- lant Committee of San Francisco. It scattered and suppressed effectually the organ- ization of the " Hounds."
At the election on the 1st of August, in accordance with the proclamation of Governor Riley, Horace Hawes was elected Prefect, and John W. Geary First Alcalde. The council assembled, the Alcalde and Prefect gave their addresses, and the city was organized by a regularly constituted elective government. The Baptists dedi- cated the first Protestant Church in the town, on the 5th of August, of this year, (1849). Several other denominations were already organized, and were progressing towards the erection of houses of worship.
During the month of October steam navigation became a feature in business trans- actions, the iron steamers Pioneer, and Mint, and the old propeller McKim, having commenced their trips between San Francisco and the interior towns. The Senator was soon put upon the Sacramento and San Francisco line, where she continued for years, and with a safety and pecuniary success perhaps never equaled. On the 25th of the same month, also, political matters took form by a Democratic meeting on the Plaza. Rowe's Olympic Circus opened on the 29th of the same mouth, and thus inaugurated the commencement of theatrical entertainments. One month later, a day was observed as one of thanksgiving and prayer for the advent of the new State of California, in obedience to a proclamation of the Governor. Thus early was the custom of the Eastern States acknowledged and instituted on the Pacific Coast. Probably pumpkin pics were not so generally discussed as in New England, but the day and the sentiment were not forgotten.
An election was held on the 13th of November, 1849, to elect the first officers under the new State Constitution, and, at the same time votes were polled upon the acceptance or rejection of that instrument. In San Francisco only five out of two thousand and fifty-six votes were thrown against it. At this election Gabriel B. Post and Nathaniel Bennett were chosen State Senators; and William Van Voorhies, Edmund Randolph, Levi Stowell, J. H. Watson, and J. A. Patterson, members of Assembly. It was the first election for State officers.
The Court of First Instance, under Judge William B. Almond, by order of the Governor, was organized on the 12th of December. Its jurisdiction was limited to civil cases, and to sums exceeding one hundred dollars. The object was to lighten the duties of the Alcalde's Court, which had become too onerous. All who ever stood in the presence of the Court of Judge Almond, can never forget the amusing scenes which occurred there, where decision was rendered by the Judge with a promptness and result which often astounded lawyers, witnesses and contestants.
December 24th is remembered as that which saw the first of those great fires which, at intervals, have laid the buildings and the hopes of many of the citizens of San Francisco in ashes. On the morning of that day, Dennison's Exchange, on the
HISTORY OF SAN FRANCISCO.
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east side of the Plaza, was discovered to be ou fire at about six o'clock. Nearly all the block bounded by Kearny, Washington, Montgomery and Clay Streets, was destroyed. The loss was estimated at a million of dollars. With no organized Fire Department, and the inflammable nature of the buildings being considered, it was wonderful that the conflagration did not make a still more general devastation. By this fire, the Parker House, which at that time was probably bringing in a much larger rental than any other building in the United States, was destroyed. The con- dition of the streets at this time was exceedingly disagreeable. The first rains of the season had commenced on the 8th of October, and the next day it fell in great quantities. But the streets were soon in a tolerable condition again. But about the 4th of November the rains re-commenced, and from that time until April, the mud was truly appalling. The streets were, almost without exception, in a state of nature, neither paved nor planked, and their continual use by teams soon rended them mere quagmires, where man and beast were liable to be stuck as in a bog. Something disagreeable was this to persons recently from the firm streets of eastern cities.
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