History of California, Volume VI, Part 16

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe
Publication date: 1885-1890
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers
Number of Pages: 816

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Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

3 ' Men, women, and children, even women with infants at their breasts, trudging along on foot.' St Louis Union, May 25, 1849. 'We were nearly all afoot, and there were no seats in the wagons.' Hittell's speech before the pioneers. Many preferred walking to jolting over the prairie.

+ Indignant at the frequent allusions to Spanish-Californians as half-civil- ized Indians, Vallejo points to some of the Missourian backwoodsmen as more resembling Indians in habits as well as uncouth appearance. Vallejo, Docs, MS., xxxvi. 287. The western states were almost depopulated by the exodus, says Borthwick, Three Years in Cal., 2-3.

HIST. CAL., VOL VI. 10

146

THE JOURNEY OVERLAND

The gathering began early in April, and by the end of the month some 20,000, representing every town and village in the States, were encamped on the fron- tier, making their final preparations, and waiting until the grass on the plains should be high enough to feed the animals. At the opening of May the grand pro- cession started, and from then till the beginning of June company after company left the frontier, till the trail from the starting-point to Fort Laramie pre- sented one long line of pack-trains and wagons. Along some sections of the road the stream was unbroken for miles,5 and at night, far as the eye could reach, camp-fires gleamed like the lights of a distant city. "The rich meadows of the Nebraska or Platte," writes Bayard Taylor, "were settled for the time, and a single traveller could have journeyed for 1,000 miles, as cer- tain of his lodging and regular meals as if he were riding through the old agricultural districts of the middle states."

For a while there is little to check the happy antici- pations formed during the excitement, and sustained by the well-filled larders and a new country; and so, with many an interchange of chat and repartee, between the bellowing and shouting of animals and men, and the snapping of whips, the motley string of pedestrians and horsemen advances by the side of the creaking wagons. Occasionally a wayside spring or brook pro- longs the midday halt of the more sober-minded, while others hasten on to fill the gap. Admonished by declining day, the long line breaks into groups, which gather about five o'clock at the spots selected to camp for the night. The wagons roll into a circle, or on a river bank in semicircle, to form a bulwark against a possible foe, and a corral for the animals

5 ' Thursday, June 8th. Met a man whose train was on ahead, who told us that he had counted 459 teams within nine miles. When we started after dinner there were 150 that appeared to be in one train. . . Friday, June 23d. Passed the upper Platte ferry. The ferryman told me he had crossed 900 teams, and judged that there were about 1,500 on the road ahead of us. Yet still they come.' Kirkpatrick's Journal, MS., 14, 16.

147

A CAMP ON THE WAY.

now turned loose to graze and rest. Tents unfold, fires blaze, and all is bustle; women cooking, and men tending and tinkering. Then comes a lull; the meal over, the untrammelled flames shoot aloft, pressing farther back the flitting shadows, and finding reflec- tion in groups of contented faces, moving in sympathy to the changing phases of some story, or to the strains of song and music.6 The flames subside; a hush falls on the scene; the last figures steal away under tent and cover, save two, the sentinels, who stalk around to guard against surprise, and to watch the now pick- eted animals, till relieved at midnight. With the first streaks of dawn a man is called from each wagon

113

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BLACK HILLS

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FROM THE MISSOURI TO GREAT SALT LAKE.

to move the beasts to better feed. Not long after four o'clock all are astir, and busy breakfasting and preparing to start. Tents are struck, and horses har- nessed, and at six the march is taken up again.

Not until the River Platte is reached, some ten or fifteen days out, does perfect order and routine reign. The monotonous following of this stream wears away that novelty which to the uninitiated seems to demand a change of programme for every day's proceedings, and about this point each caravan falls into ways of its own, and usually so continues to the end of the journey, under the supervision of an elected captain

6 Specimen of emigrant song in Walton's Gold Regions, 28-32; Stillman's Golden Fleece, 23-4.

Rende vous

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COUNCIL BLUFFS

Utah Laks

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148

THE JOURNEY OVERLAND.

and his staff. Harmony is often broken, however, at one time on the score of route and routine, at another in the enforcement of regulations; and even if the latter be overcome by amendments and change of officers, enough objections may remain to cause the split of a party. Associates quarrel and separate; the hired man, finding himself master of the situation, grows insolent and rides on, leaving his employer be- hind. The sameness of things often palls as days and months pass away and no sign of human habitation appears; then, again, the changes from prairies where the high grass half covers the caravan to sterile plain, from warm pleasant valleys to bleak and almost im- passable mountains, and thence down into miasmatic swamps with miry stretches, and afterward sandy sinks and forbidding alkali wastes and salt flats baked and cracked by sun, and stifling with heat and dust; through drenching rains and flooded lowlands, and across the sweeping river currents-and all with occa- sional chilling blasts, suffocating simoons, and constant fear of savages.

This and more had the overland travellers to en- counter in greater or less degree during their jaunt of 2,000 miles and more. Yet, after all, it was not always hard and horrible. There was much that was enjoyable, particularly to persons in health-bright skies, exhilarating air, and high anticipations. For romance as well as danger the overland journey was not behind the voyage by sea, notwithstanding the several changes in the latter of climate, lands, and peoples. Glimpses of landscapes and society were rare from shipboard, and the unvarying limitless water became dreary with monotony. Storms and other dangers brought little inspiration or reliance to coun- teract oppressive fear. Man lay here a passive toy for the elements. But each route had its attractions and discomforts, particularly the latter.

The Indians in 1849 were not very troublesome. The numbers of the pale-faces were so large that they

149

THE INDIANS AND CHOLERA.

did not know what to make of it. So they kept pru- dently in the background, rarely venturing an attack, save upon some solitary hunter or isolated band, with an occasional effort at stampeding stock. Some sought intercourse with the white men, hoping by begging, stealing, and offer of services to gain some advantage from the transit, nevertheless keeping the suspicious emigrants constantly on the alert.

The Indians' opportunity was to come in due time, however, after other troubles had run their course. The first assumed the terrible form of cholera, which, raging on the Atlantic seaboard, ascended the Missis- sippi, and overtook the emigrants about the time of their departure, following them as far as the elevated mountain region beyond Fort Laramie. At St Joseph and Independence it caused great mortality among those who were late in setting out; and for hundreds of miles along the road its ravages were recorded by newly made graves, sometimes marked by a rough head-board, but more often designated only by the desecration of wolves and coyotes. The emigrants were not prepared to battle with this dreadful foe. It is estimated that 5,000 thus perished; and as many of these were the heads of families on the march, the affliction was severe. Sogreat was the terror inspired that the victims were often left to perish on the road- side by their panic-stricken companions. On the other hand, there were many instances of heroic devotion, of men remaining alone with a comrade while the rest of the company rushed on to escape contagion, and nurs- ing him to his recovery, to be in turn stricken down and nursed by him whose life had been saved. It seemed as if the scourge had been sent upon them by a divinity incensed at their thirst for gold, and some of the more superstitious of the emigrants saw therein the hand of Providence, and returned. To persons thus disposed, that must have been a spectacle of dreadful import witnessed by Cassin and his party. They were a few days out from Independence; the

150

THE JOURNEY OVERLAND.

cholera was at its height, when one day they saw afar off, and apparently walking in the clouds, a procession of men bearing aloft a coffin. It was only a mirage, the reflection of a funeral taking place a day's journey distant, but to the beholders it was an omen of their fate set up in the heavens as a warning.

Thus it was even in the route along the banks of the Platte, where meadows and springs had tempted the cattle, and antelopes and wild turkeys led on the yet spirited hunter to herds of buffalo and stately elk; for here was the game region. This river was usually struck at Grand Island, and followed with many a struggle through the marshy ground to the south branch, fordable at certain points and seasons, at others crossed by ferriage, on rafts or canoes lashed together,7 with frequent accidents. Hence the route led along the north branch from Ash Hollow to Fort Laramie, the western outpost of the United States,8 and across the barren Black Hill country, or by the river bend, up the Sweetwater tributary into the south pass of the Rocky Mountains. The ascent is almost imperceptible, and ere the emigrant is aware of having crossed the central ridge of the continent, he finds himself at the head of the Pacific water sys- tem, at Green River, marked by a butte of singular formation, like a ruined edifice with majestic dome and pillars.

The next point was Fort Hall,? at the junction of

7 Calked wagon-beds and sheet-iron boats were brought into service. ' Within our hearing to-day twelve men have found a watery grave,' writes Kirkpatrick, Journal, MS., 16, at Platte ferry, June 21, 1849; see also Cas- sin's A Few Facts on Cal., MS., 2; Brown's Early Days in Cal., MS., 3-4.

8 For forts on this route, see Hist. B. C., this series; U. S. Gov. Doc., 31st cong. Ist sess., H. Ex. Doc., v. pt i. 224. Many desertions took place from the garrison. Coke's Ride, 156. The first company arrived here May 22d; cholera was disappearing, the Crows were watching to carry off cattle. Placer Times, Oct. 13, 1849. One emigrant journal shows that it took fully six weeks to traverse the 670 miles between Independence and this fort.

9 The fort was reached by two routes from the south pass, the more direct, Sublette's cut-off, crossed the head waters of the Sandy and down Bear River to its junction with the Thomas branch. The other followed the Sandy to Green River; crossed this and the ridge to Fort Bridger; thence across the Muddy Fork and other Green River tributaries into Bear River Valley, and

151

DOWN THE HUMBOLDT.

the Oregon trail, whence the route led along Snake River Valley to the north of Goose Creek Mountains, and up this stream10 to the head waters of the Hum- boldt, also called Mary and Ogden River. This was followed along its entire length to the lake or sink into which it disappears. It was hereabout that the emigrants were the most frequently driven to extrem- ity. Long since the strain and hardships of the journey had claimed their victims. Many a man, undaunted by the cholera and the heavy march through the Platte country, abandoning one portion after another of his effects, after a dozen unloadings and reloadings and toilsome extrications and mount- ings within as many hours; undaunted, even, on approaching the summit of the continent, lost his zeal and courage on nearing the Sierra Nevada, and with his gold fever abated, he turned back to nurse con- tentment in his lately abandoned home.11 Many, indeed, tired and discouraged, with animals thinned in number and exhausted, halted at Great Salt Lake, ac- cepting the invitation of the Mormons to stay through the winter and recuperate. 12 The saints undoubtedly north to the Thomas branch. Hence the reunited trails reached Fort Hall by way of Portneuf River.

10 Toward the end of 1849 or beginning of 1850 a trail was opened from Bear River across the head waters of the Bannock, Fall, and Raft tributaries of Snake River, meeting the other trail at the head of Goose Creek. Delano's Life on Plains, 138. Another important branch of the route, so sadly recorded by the Donner company of 1846, and fit rather for lightly equipped parties with pack- animals than for wagons, was the Hastings road. It started from Fort Bridger, passed round the southern end of Great Salt Lake, crossed the desert, and procceded in a westerly direction till the east Humboldt Mountains were struck at Franklin River; there it turned abruptly, passing round the southern end of the range, and followed the south branch of the Humboldt down to the main river. Bryant, What I Saw in Cal., i. 142-3, passed over it successfully in 1846. The Mormons established ferries at Weber and Bear rivers, charging $5 or $8 for each team. Slater's Mormonism, 6.

11 Placer Times, Oct. 13, 1849, alludes to many returns, even from Lar- amie. B. F. Dowell, Letters, MS., 3, bought a horse from one who turned back after having travelled 700 miles; 'he had seen the elephant, and eaten its ears.'

12 Instance Morgan, Trip 1849, 14-17. The number wintering in 1850-1 was large, from 800 to 1,000, says Slater. Mormonism, 5-12, 37; who adds that the Mormons withheld or reduced wages and supplies, so that many suf- fored and were even unable to proceed on their journey. Charges to this effect were published in Sac. Union, June 28, 1851; but they should be taken with due allowance. Staples, Incid., MS., 2-3, accuses the Mormons of mani- festing their hatred for Missourians.

152

THE JOURNEY OVERLAND.

reaped a harvest in cheap labor, and by the ready exchange of provisions to starving emigrants for wagons, tools, clothing, and other effects, greatly to the delight of the leaders, who, at the first sight of gold from California, had prophesied plenty, and the sale of States goods at prices as low as in the east.13 Others, eager as ever, and restive under the frequent delays and slow progress of the ox trains, would hasten onward in small parties, perhaps alone, perchance tempted into the numerous pitfalls known as cut- offs, to be lost in the desert, overcome by heat and thirst, or stricken down by furtively pursuing savages, whose boldness increased as the emigrant force became weak.14

But how insignificant appear the sufferings of the men in comparison with those of the women and chil- dren, driven after a long and toilsome journey into a desert of alkali. And here the dumb brutes suffer as never before. There are drifts of ashy earth in these flats in which the cattle sink to their bellies, and go moaning along their way midst a cloud of dust and beneath a broiling sun, while just beyond are fantas- tic visions of shady groves and bubbling springs; for this is the region of mirage, and not far off the desert extends into the terrible Valley of Death, accursed to all living things, its atmosphere destructive even to the passing bird. Many are now weakened by scurvy, fever, and exhaustion. There are no longer surplus relays. The remnant of animals is all pressed into service, horse and cow being sometimes yoked together. The load is still further lightened to re-

13 Thus had spoken Heber C. Kimball, when the Mormon gold-finders arrived from California, although he doubted his own words the next moment. 'Yet it was the best prophetic hit of his life.' Tullidge's Life of Young, 203-8.

14 Seven emigrants were surprised in the Klamath region by 200 Indians, and six ent down. Lord, Naturalist, 271, found bones and half-burned wagons near Yreka ten years later. Instance also in U. S. Gov. Doc., 31st cong. 2d sess., Sen. Doc. 19, iii. 12. More than one solitary traveller is spoken of. See Quigley's Irish Race, 216; Sac. Bee, Oct. 3, 1870. One wheeled his bag- gage in a barrow at the pace of 25 miles a day, passing many who travelled with animals. Coke's Ride, 166; Solano Co. Hist., 368-9.

153

OVER THE DESERT.

lieve the jaded teams. Even feeble women must walk. The entire line is strewn with dead animals and abandoned effects. Vultures and coyotes hover ominously along the trail. Gloomy nights are followed by a dawn of fresh suffering. Now and then some one succumbs, and in despair bids the rest fly and

SHOSHONES

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San Juaquin River

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Tehachapi Pass

ACROSS THE DESERT.

leave him to his fate. Some of the trains come to a stop, and the wagons are abandoned, while the ani- mals are ridden or driven forward.15

15 The passage of this desert was but a narrow stretch, from two to four score miles, according to the direction taken, but was very severe, especially to wanderers worn out and stricken with disease. Instances of suffering

Lake

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154

THE JOURNEY OVERLAND.

The suffering in 1849 fell chiefly upon the later ar- rivals, when water was scarce and the little grass left by the earlier caravans had dried up. The savages, too, became troublesome. Several relief parties went out from the mines. In 1850 the suffering was more severe throughout, partly from the over-confidence created by the news of well-stocked markets in Cali- fornia, which led to the wasteful sacrifice of stores on the way by the overloaded caravans of 1849, and of the scarcity of supplies at the Mormon way-station. Hence many started with scanty supplies and poorer animals. The overflow of the Humboldt drove the trains to the barren uplands, lengthening the jour- ney and starving the beasts. So many oxen and horses perished in the fatal sink that the effluvia revived the cholera, and sent it to ravage the enfeebled crowds which escaped into Sacramento Valley. Be- hind them on the plains were still thousands, battling not alone with this and other scourges, but with fan- ine and cold, for snow fell early and massed in heavy drifts. Tales of distress were brought by each arrival, told not in words only, but by the blanched and hag- gard features, until California was filled with pity, and the government combined with the miners and other self-sacrificing men in efforts for the relief of the sufferers. Carried by parties in all directions across the mountains and through the snow,16 train after train was saved; yet so many were the sufferers that only a comparatively small number could be much relieved. Emaciated men, carrying infants crying for

abound in the journals of the time. Alta Cal., Dec. 15, 1849, et seq .; Placer Times of 1849; S. F. Herald, Pac. News, Sac. Union, etc., of following years. Duncan's Southern Region, MS., 1-2. See following note.

16 During this year, 1849, the authorities appropriated $100,000 for relief, and troops passed eastward with supplies, partly under Maj. Rucker. See reports in U. S. Gov. Doc., 31st cong. Ist sess., Sen. Doc. 52, xiii. 94-154; Id., 30th cong. 2dl sess., Acts and Resol., 155; Smith's Rept, in Tyson's Geol., 84. The public also subscribed liberally. Placer Times, Sept. 15, 1849; Sherman's Mem., i. SO. In 1850 the public made even greater efforts in all directions, and Capt. Waldo headed one relief train. Upham's Notes, 351-2; Cal. Jour. Sen., 1851, 607-10; Sac. Transcript, Sept. 23, 1850, etc. Appeals for subscrip- tions and responses are given in all the journals of the time. See next note.

155

SUFFERING AND DEATH.

food, stopped to feed on the putrefying carcasses lining the road, or to drink from alkaline pools, only to in- crease their misery, and finally end in suicide.17 "The suffering is unparalleled," cry several journals in Sep- tember 1850, in their appeal for relief; nine tenths of the emigrants were on foot, without food or money; not half of their oxen, not one fourth of their horses, survived to cross the mountains, and beyond the desert were still 20,000 souls, the greater part of whom were destitute. 18

After escaping from the desert, the emigrant had still to encounter the difficult passage of the Sierra Nevada, so dangerous after snow began to fall, as instanced by the terrible fate of the Donner party in 1846. Of the several roads, the most direct was along Truckee River to its source in the lake of that name,

17 On the Humboldt, says Delano, Life, 238-9, three men and two women drowned themselves in one day.

18 The report of the Waldo relief party, in Sac. Transcript, Sept. 23, 1850, stated that large supplies from Marysville had failed to pass beyond Bear Valley, west of the Sierra, owing to the animals failing. At the lower Truckee crossing beef had been deposited, and a number of stout animals sent to carry sick emigrants across the desert. Several starving men were encountered, and the dead bodies of others who had succumbed. Few were found with provisions, save their exhausted teams; one fourth, having no animals, lived on the putrefying carcasses, thus absorbing disease. Cholera broke out Sept. Sth, in one small train, carrying off eight persons in three hours, several more being expected to die. From the sink westward the havoc was fearful. Indians added to the misery by stealing animals. Of 20,000 emigrants still back of the desert, fully 15,000 were destitute, and their greatest suffering was to come; half of them could not reach the mountains before winter; from 5,000 to 8,000 lbs of beef were issued daily; flour was furnished only to the sick. Those yet at the head of the Humboldt were to be warned to turn back to Great Salt Lake. Similar accounts in earlier and later numbers. Id., July 26, Aug. 16, Sept. 30, 1850, Feb. 1, 14, 1851, etc. Owing to the number of applicants, relief rations had to be reduced. Id., Steamer eds. of Aug. 30th, Oct. 14th. Barstow, Stat., MS., 12-13, who went out with provisions, declares that he could almost step from one abandoned wagon and carcass to another. See further accounts in Miscel. Stat .; Shearer's Journal, MS., 1-3; Connor's Stat., MS., 4-5; Dowell's Letters, MS., 1-34; Sherwood's Pocket Guide, 47-64; Picayune, Aug. 21, Sept. 3-4, 12, 1850; N. F. Cour., July 13, 24, Aug. 9, 17, 20, 26, 1850; S. F. Herald, July 13, 27-9, Aug. 21-2, 1850; Deseret News, Oct. 5, 1850; Alta Cal., Dec. 17, 1850; Del- ano's Life on Plains, 234-42; Pac. News, Aug. 21-2, 24, 1850; Sac. Bre, Dec. 7, 1867; Beadle's Western Wilds, 38-40; Alger's Young Adven., 185, ete .; Los Angeles Rep., Feb. 28, Mar. 14, 1878; Brown's Early Days, MS., 2-4, 7. Devoted men like Waldo, who so freely offered themselves and their means for the relief of the sufferers, cannot be too highly praised and remembered by Californians.

156

THE JOURNEY OVERLAND.

and thence down the Yuba to Feather and Sacramento rivers. 19 The route so far described, by way of the

19 Through Henness pass. A trail branched by Donner Lake along the north branch of the American. The most northern route, Lassen's, turned from the great bend of the Humboldt north-west to Goose Lake, there to swing southward by the Oregon trail along Pit River and Honey Lake into the Sac- ramento Valley. Hostile Indians, and snow, and greater extent of desert combined to give this the name of the Death Route, so that few followed it after the early part of 1849. Yreka Jour., Feb. 18, 1871. A branch from it strnek across Upper Mud Lake toward Honey Lake. Below Truckee ran the Carson River route, turning south of Lake Tahoe through Johnson Pass and down the south fork of American River. A branch turned to the west fork of Walker River through Sonora pass and Sonora to Stockton. The main route from the east is well described in a little emigrant's guide-book pub- lished by J. E. Ware. After giving the intending emigrant instructions as to his outfit, estimates of expense, directions for forming camp, etc., the author follows the entire route from one camping-place or prominent point to the next, describes the intervening road and river crossings, points out where fuel and water can be obtained, and gives distances as well as he can. In 1849 Ware set out for Cal., was taken ill east of Laramie, and heartlessly abandoned by his companions, and thus perished miserably. Delano says he was 'formerly from Galena, but known in St Louis as a writer.' Life on the Plains, 163. Alonzo Delano was born at Aurora, N. Y., July 2, 1806, and came to Cal. by the Lassen route in 1849, and of his journey published a minute account. After working in the placers for some time lie went to S. F. and opened a produce store. In the autumn of 1851 he engaged in quartz-mining at Grass Valley, which was thenceforward his home. A year or two later he became superintendent of the Nevada Company's mill and mine, and then agent of Adams & Co.'s express and banking office. In Feb. 1855 he opened a banking-house of his own. In his position of agent for Adams & Co. at Grass Valley, he received orders to pay out no money either on public or pri- vate deposits, which orders he did not obey; but calling the depositors to- gether, he read his instructions and said: 'Come, men, and get your deposits; you shall have what is yours so long as there is a dollar in the safe.' Five days later, on Feb. 20th, Delano opened a banking-house of his own; and so great was the confidence placed in his integrity that within 24 hours he re- ceived more money on deposit than he had ever held as agent for Adams & Co. From that time on he led a successful and honored career as a banker until the day of his death, which occurred at Grass Valley Sept. 8, 1874. For further particulars, see Grass Valley Foothill Tidings, Nov. 21, 1874; Grass Valley Union, Sept. 10, 1874; Truckee Republican, Sept. 10, 1874; Sta Bárbara Index, Sept. 24, 1874; Portland Bulletin, Oct. 7, 1874; S. F. Alta, Sept. 11, 1874. But it was as an author, not as a banker, that Delano was best known to the early Californians, and, by one of his books at least, to the wider world. This work, a vol. of some 400 pages, is an account of his jour- ney overland to Cal., and embodies much information about early times in Cal., especially in the mining regions and small towns. Its title is: Life on the Plains and among the Diggings; being Scenes and Adventures of an Over- land Journey to California: with Particular Incidents of the Route, Mistakes and Sufferings of the Emigrants, the Indian Tribes, the Present and the Future of the Great West. Auburn, 1854, and N. Y., 1861. The portion relating to the journey was written as a journal, in which the incidents of each day, the kind of country passed through, and the probable distance accomplished were noted. What does not relate to the immigration is more sketchy, but still valuable and accurate. Although Delano's most ambitious book, it was not his first. During the earlier years of residence in his adopted country he contributed a number of short humorous sketches illustrative of Cal. life to the various periodicals. These fugitive pieces were collected and pub-

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History of California, Volume VI, Part 16

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe Publication date: 1885-1890 Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers Number of Pages: 816

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe
Publication date: 1885-1890
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers
Number of Pages: 816