USA > California > History of California, Volume VI > Part 60
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The forbidding features of these transmountain counties extend to the Lower California frontier, over the greater part of San Bernardino and San Diego counties, marked especially by sinks and deserts. The moisture-laden winds of the ocean are cut off by the intervening ranges to enrich the western slopes, and to assist in making them a semi-tropic paradise, the home of the orange, the olive, and the vine, with the balmiest of climes. Here the first settlements were made by the Mexican inwanderers of a century ago, who
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huddled round the coast-line missions, which strove for the submission rather than the elevation of the aborigines. The neglect and usurpation of these establishments was followed by the entry of the Anglo-Saxons, who, while absorbing most of the land and holdings, applied a more energetic spirit toward the unfolding of hitherto slumbering resources, in agriculture, mines, and manufacture. The Hispano-Californians had been indolently content to yield all this beautiful region to browsing herds, roaming and increasing at will; but the new-comers gradually drove the sheep and cattle to the hills, and extended the petty beginnings in horticulture, farming, and irrigation to waving fields, lustrous orchards, and vineyards, with widely radiating canals. They studded with oases the unpromising deserts toward the Colorado, and held forth the prospect of reclaiming large tracts. This reclamation was ini- tiated in one direction by the railroad and other lines of traffic, whose sta- tions, with attendant wells and garden patches, demonstrated the transformn- ability of these solitudes. Mining aided somewhat in the same direction, by calling attention, for instance, to the north-eastern part of San Bernardino, and by opening several valleys and districts in the ranges, as Julian and Banner in San Diego, both with villages, and Stonewall south of them, which produced nearly $400,000. San Bernardino revealed tin at Temescal, and a little gold in Holcombe and Bear valleys. Then there is Silverado in Los Angeles county, with several silver mines, besides the gold, silver, copper, and coal deposits in different valleys and on Sta Catalina Island, and the oil wells of Newhall.
Great changes also took place in the urban settlements. Increased wealth, population, and traffic have called up a number of stations along the highways and railroads, and shipping places along the coast, supplemented by bathing and wintering resorts, while effecting many changes in the old towns, wherein the low and oblong, though dazzling white and solid, adobe dwellings of Mexican days and occupants stand eclipsed by the more elegant and airy frame buildings of the new era. Old San Diego, the first of Cali- fornia foundations, declined into a dismal hamlet, presently to smile again under the overshadowing influence of New San Diego, which from among the numerous town projects dotting the bay sprang into prominence after 1867, to become the county seat and port of entry, with brilliant prospects based on a wonderful climate for health and pleasure, on the development of field products from lands long dormant and deemed worthless, and on the command of the only good harbor of southern California. In the north, San Luis Rey, the former mission, with a station at Pala, continued a tributary trading post, with flour mill. Temecula became the prominent station be- yond. Oceanside was established as a resort. San Diego connty in- creased in population from 2,900 in 1852, whereof three fourths were Indians, to over 8,600 in 1880, with 696 farms; acreage 69,000, value $2,876,000, produce $395,00), live-stock $685,000, some of which items may be increased tenfold for 18SS. San Bernardino, founded in 1851 by industrious Mor- mons as the earliest of modern California colonies, rose as the seat of the largest among the counties, and as the centre of its limited share in the nar- row garden region on the coast. About 300 Mormons arrived here in June 1851, under the leadership of Lyman and Rich, intent partly on founding a
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SAN DIEGO, SAN BERNARDINO, AND LOS ANGELES.
way-station for emigrants to Utah, by way of the Pacific. They bought the tract of Lugo, the owner of the abandoned mission, and paid for it within six years. The town laid out as their centre in 1851 prospered so well that it was chosen as the seat of government when the county was organized in 1853. Incorporation followed in 1854. The recall of the brethren in 1857-8 to Utah proved a blow, resulting in disincorporation in 1861, followed by a fresh charter in 1864. Then it revived, and the population of 1,670 in 1880 grew rapidly. Alta Cal., Oct. 31, 1851; June 15, July 29, Sept. 19, Oct. 25, 1352; Millennial Star, xiv. 491; Frazer's S. Bern., MS., 25-6; S. Bern. Times, July 8, 1876; Hist. S. Bern. Co., 84-5, 122-3; Mormon Politics, 1-8; Haycs' Indians, i. 68; Id., S. Bern., i. passim; Dean's Stat., MS., 12; Vischer's Cal., 73-4; Pratt's Autobiog., 457-65; Cal. Statutes, 1854, 61; 1861, 508; 1863, 36; 1863-4, 68-70; Codman's Trip, 56-8. The mission, five miles away, was converted into an orange grove. Agua Mansa is the relic of a New Mexican colony of 1842, and Riverside, one of the flourishing efforts of Anglo-Saxon colonization, soon became famed for its fruit. The latter was founded in 1870; name changed from Jurupa. Etivanda, Redlands, and Ontario are among the newer colonies which have helped to increase the population of the county from 3,990 in 1870 to 7,790 in 1880, with over 700 farms, limited to an acreage of 53,000, but valued at $3,346,000, produce $430,000, live- stock $397,000. Its earliest resources are included under Los Angeles, from which it was segregated. Agua Manse was devastated by a flood in 1862. Bell's Remin., MS., 14. Colton, as a railroad junction, marks the promising entrepôt.
The radiating point for southern California since Spanish times is Los Angeles, whose prominence stood assured from the first by the fertile lands around, presently covered by orange groves and gardens, and whose not very laudable ambition has long been to become the seat of a new state. The removal of the capital in 1847 to Monterey, the original seat of govern- ment, was a check to these pretensions, which seemed to have left its spell for some years. Nevertheless the city was incorporated in 1850, and claimed in 1851 a population of 2,500. The increase during the following two decades was little more than double, but later the influx of Americans assumed large proportions, promoted by the expanding fruit culture of the south, and the attendant railroad discrimination, until the census figure of 11,180 for 1880 has been greatly surpassed. Cal. Statutes, 1850, 155; 1856, 31; Cassin's Stat., MS., 18; Los Ang. Directories; Id., Arch., iii. 391, etc .; Id., Hist., passim; Id., Co., 106-29; McPherson's Los Any., 42-7, 71; Hawley's Los Ang., 97 et seq .; Los Ang. Ordin., 1-39; Hayes' Angeles, i .- xviii., passim; Id., So. Cal. Polit., i .- ii .; scattered notices in local journals, News, Exchange, Repub., Star, Herald, and Express.
Two roadsteads, both connected by railroads, present outlets for its traffic, one at Santa Monica, known chiefly as a bathing resort, the other at ancient San Pedro, supplanted by the modern Wilmington, which, with breakwaters and other improvements, endeavors to supply nature's omissions. A good wharf was constructed, and a town laid out by Gen. Banning in 1858. Alta Cal., Oct. 8, 1858. It boasted a newspaper in 1864, and was incorporated in 1872. Cal. Statutes, 1871-2, 87, 108-16, 1049; Banning's
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CALIFORNIA IN COUNTIES.
Settl. of Wilm., MS., 5 et seq .; Hayes' Wilmington, 1-184; Id., Ang., v. 313 et seq. Santa Monica, established in 1855, properly adjoins the younger trad- ing town of Santa Monica, founded in 1875 by Senator Jones, with a flourishing start Sta Monica, The Coming City, 1-12; Hinton's Ariz., 19-22. The de- struction of the wharf and railroad intrigues reduced the population fully one half by ISSO, but again it lifted its head.
Below lies Anaheim landing, the shipping place for Anaheim, a leading town in the county, which forms a signal illustration of successful colonizing on cooperative principles, the forerunner of many similar projects, suggested no doubt by San Bernardino. A company of Germans, chiefly mechanics of S. F., subscribed in 1837 to lay out a tract of 1,263 acres in vineyards, with irrigation, fencing, and town lots. The name is a compound of heim, home, and Ana, taken from the adjoining river. At the end of three years most of the founders came down to take possession, and with mutual aid a village sprang into existence. Hardly one of them had any experience in viniculture, yet the colony prospered, and within a few years each 20-acre lot, with town site, costing the owner on an average less than $1,500, had risen in value to $5,000 and $10,000. Nordhoff gives an interesting account of the colony in his Commun. Soc., 361-6; Anaheim Hist .; Alta Cal., Oct. 23, Dec. 14, 1859 The first house was built by B. Dreyfus in 1857. The town was incorporated in 1870 with a population of SSO, Cal. Statutes, 1869-70, 66, 1871-2, 273-4, and disincorporated in 1872. Anaheim Gaz., 1879; and preceding general references. Other villages are Downey City, formerly Los Nietos, which absorbed Gallatin and College Settlement, and centre of the oil business, the ancient San Gabriel mission, the Pasadena colony of 1873, the Pomona of 1875, Artesia of 1869, Westminster of 1871, Tustin, and Compton. Santa Ana, another rising settlement, was laid out by W. H. Spurgeon in 1869; claimed in ISSO a population of over 1,000, and sustained two journals. The old mis- sion of San Juan Capistrano revived. The large islands supplement the ranges for sheep pastures. The prominence of stock-raising in early days is shown in my preceding vols. The census of 1850 gives Los Angeles county 100,000 head, and an improved acreage of only 2,650. That of ISSO places the stock at about the same value, but the farms numbered 1,940, valued at $12,099,000, with $1,835,000 in produce, population 33,380. The mountainous Santa Bárbara encloses several small but alluring valleys, with a climate that attracts large numbers of health as well as home seekers, and has raised ancient Santa Bárbara city to the foremost rank of resorts. It was incor- porated in 1850, etc., Cal. Statutes, 1850, 172, 1861, 502, 1873-4, 330, though termed a ciudad long before. Sta B. Arch., viii. 200; Vischer's Pict. Cal., 41-2, with view; Sta B. Index, Id., Press, 1876, etc .; Hayes' Mont., et seq. Its first journal dates from 1854. Improvements of the harbor occupy much atten- tion. Population 3,460 by ISSO. The adjoining mission is sustained as a college, and Montecito to the east is famed for its large grape vines and al- monds. In Santa Inez valley the Lompoc colony flourishes as a champion of temperance. This place was laid out in 1874 and obtained a journal in 1875. The colony projects of the Lompoc Company proved a failure, but the original owners pushed them, and the place claimed a population in 1885 of 200 fami- lies in the colony. Lompoc Record, June 5-19, Sept. 11, ISSO; Sta B. Press,
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SOUTHERN COAST.
Apr. 1, 1876. In Santa María the towns of Guadalupe and Central City strove for the supremacy. They were founded in 1872 and 1875, respect- ively. The obliteration of La Graciosa, dating from 1868, flourished in 1877; but the land title being confirmed to H. M. Newhall, it faded away. It points out one phase of the land-grant troubles, which have retarded settle- ment and caused much crime and bloodshed-instance the robber bands under Sol. Pico and Powers, and the Vidal fight. The drought of 1863-4 in- flicted a severe blow by destroying nearly all the cattle while directing atten- tion to horticulture and irrigation. In 1872 the eastern section separated to form Ventura county, with the seat of government at the mission of San Buenaventura, which was laid out as a town. J. Arnay sought in 1848 to found a city near the mission, but it languished till Waterman, Vassault, & Co., who then controlled the land, made a survey in 1862, and gave so success- ful an impulse that incorporation followed soon after. Cal. Statutes, 1865-6, 216; 1873-4, 54; 875-6, 534; Ventura Signal, July 8, 1876, a journal started iu 1871. The destruction of the wharf in 1877 proved a check on progress. Population 1,370 in 1880. A promising shipping point at Hueneme was established in 1870 by T. R. Bard, and marked by wharf and lighthouse. Population 166 in 1880. The name is Indian. A rising valley town was Santa Paula, where a flour-mill was founded in 1870 by Blanchard and Brad- ley, and the town in 1875. Nordhoff is a health resort in the Ojai Valley. Near by are promising oil deposits. The census of 1880 assigns the county a population of 5,070, with 573 farms, value $2,734,000, produce $649,000, live- stock $535,000, while Sta Bárbara retained a population of 9,500, with 713 farms of double area, though valued at only $3,471,000, produce $746,000, live-stock $759,000.
In San Luis Obispo, whose rocky barriers turned the main route of land traffic, the early inission influence lingers in many of the settlements, by vir- tue of restricted choice of sites, and in the later county, San Luis Obispo town blossomed iuto its administration seat. Although existing as a village, it was surveyed for a town site in 1850, incorporated in 1856, and disincorporated. Cal. Statutes, 1856, 30; 1858, 396; 1863, 293; 1871-2, 220, 434; 1875-6, 361, 382; 1883, 390; Cooper's S. L. Ob., 12-36; Avila, Doc., 25 et seq .; S. L. Ob. Arch., 2, etc. Population 2,240 in 1SS0. Port Harford is its landing for the petty settlements to which this hilly district is so far restricted, with dairy and stock-raising as the predominating industries. In rank second to S. L. Obispo stands Cambria, which originated during the copper excitement of 1863, assisted by quicksilver in 1871, and by saw-mills. San Simeon, a whaling station, shares with Leffingwell's wharf in its shipments. Cayucos and Arroyo Grande are other landing-places. San Miguel mission lingers a mere hamlet; El Paso de Robles is famed for its medicinal springs. The county has in- creased in population from 500 in 1852 to 1,780 in 1860, and 9,150 in 1880, with 832 farms, value $4,430,000, produce $925,000, live-stock $1,139,000.
Monterey has undergone greater changes. The fertile valley of Salinas became a prominent wheat-producing section, centring in the town of Salinas, which sprang up to take in 1872 the county seat from the Mexican capital on
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the bay, leaving it to decline into a mere seaside resort and petty shipping- point.
A wayside hotel was opened at Salinas in 1856 by E. Howe, a hamlet sprang up, and in 1867 Ricker, Jackson, and Sherwood laid it out as a central town, which was incorporated in 1874. Cal. Statutes, 1873-4, 242, 820; 1875- 6, 94, 545; Salinas Index, May 1872 et seq .; Butler's Mont., 24. As the county seat prior to 1872, Monterey held its own for a long time, with incor- porated title. Cal. Statutes, 1850, 131; 1851, 367; 1853, 159. Its history is minutely recorded in Hayes' Monterey, passim; also Walton's Monterey; Roach's Stat., MS .; Mont. Arch., v .- xii .; Ashley's Doc .; Avila, Doc.
The railroads have revived a number of stations, such as Pajaro and Cas- troville in the north, the latter founded in 1864 by J. B. Castro, and securing a journal and large tributary population. Moss' Landing assists as a near shipping-point to sustain it. Pájaro is derived from Rio Pájaro, bird river. Then there are Gonzales and Soledad, the ancient mission, to the south. Gonzales' Stat., MS., 5-7, named after this writer's family. Beyond the Gavi- lan range lay another fine valley, whose rapid development led in 1872 to the formation of San Benito county, with the seat of government at the recently founded Hollister, which quickly overshadowed San Juan Bautista, supreme since Mexican times. Hollister was named after the prominent pioneer of the valley, who had built the first house on this site in 1862. It was laid out in 1868 by the S. Justo Homestead Assoc., and stimulated by the railway. Population 1,030 by 1880; J. Watson was the first settler near the site, in 1854. Cal. Statutes, 1873-4, 675, 840, refers to its incorporation. San Juan Bautista changed from mission to pueblo during Mexican rule. Yet it still figured with a population of 480 in 1880. Tres Pinos is one of the stations. The population of the county was 5,580 according to the census of 1880, with 593 farins, acreage 365,000, value $3,346,000, produce $430,000, live-stock $397,- 000. Monterey stood assigned a population of 11,300, with 834 farms of less extent, value $6,863,000, produce $1,784,000, stock $1,031,000. In 1850 its improved acreage stood at 13,700.
Still richer was the valley of Santa Clara, which ranked next to Los An- geles in early days for density of settlements. Its centre has remained at San José, for a while the capital of the state, and now a busy yet homelike garden city of centennial dignity. It was incorporated in 1850, and reincor- porated. Cal. Statutes, 1850, 479; 1857, 113; 1871-2, 333; 1873-4, 345, 727, 734. Comments on its selection for the capital city, in S. F. Herald, Feb. 4, 1851; Alta Cal., Dec. 24, 1850; S. F. Picayune, Sept. 28, 1850; Cal. Courier. The loss of this preeminence checked progress, yet its centennial was cele- brated under glorious auspices in 1877. For special and full descriptions, I refer to S. José Arch., L. Pap., passim; Hall's Hist. S. José, Stat., MS., by Belden, the first mayor; Fernandez, Doc., MS., 6 et seq .; and S. J. Pioneer, as the most historic among its journals. The former Mexican predomination here has declined to a small section. Population 12,570 by 1880. The mis- sion by its side has nobly maintained its course, now as the college town of Santa Clara and suburb of San José, with a share in its trade, and with incor- poration honors. Cal. Statutes, 1871-2, 251; 1856, 79; population over 2,400
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MONTEREY AND SANTA CRUZ.
in ISSO. Gilroy ranks next at the head of the valley, assisted by its springs, by railroad traffic, and by tobacco manufacture and mills. The first hamlet here was San Isidro, named after the rancho of Ortega, into which family that early Scotch pioneer Gilroy, or Cameron, married. It gradually came to be known after this settler, but in time settlement shifted over round the inn established two miles off by J. Houck in 1850. This was formally laid out in 18GS by Huber, and incorporated in 1870. Cal. Statutes, 1869-70, 263; 1871-2, 1006. Gas followed in 1871; population 1,620 in 1880. Gilroy Advo- cate, Sept .- Oct. 1879. The S. F. Times of Nov. 11, 1867, speaks of its pros- pects. Where the water-power of the creek led J. A. Forbes in 1850 to build a flour-mill, Los Gatos was established. In 1863 a lumber-yard was added. The arrival of the railroad in 1877 gave it an impulse which viniculture has affirmed. Near by lie the Saratoga paper-mills and springs. Alvise, once an important shipping-point for the valley, was pushed aside by the railroads. It was laid out in 1849, with a great flourish, having projects for docks, etc., by J. D. Hoppe, P. Burnett, and C. Marvin, and named after the Mexican land-owner there. Buffum's Sic Mo., 151; Colton's Three Years, 418; Alta Cal., Dec. 15, 1849; Pac. News, Dec. 25, 1849. Wharves and warehouses appeared, and incorporation in 1852. Cal. Statutes, 1852, 222. Swamp-land titles gave trouble. It retained sufficient trade to figure as a village. On either side are the stations Mayfield, Mountain View, and Milpitas. The quicksilver mines of New Almaden, the most productive in the world, sustain a large village. Fer 1865 the yield rose te 47,194 flasks. Later it was little ever 20,000. The county ranks among the leading agricultural districts, with 1,492 farms, according to the census of 1880, covering 257,000 acres, value $15,320,000, produce $2,157,000, live-stock $968,000; population 35,000, against 11,900 in 1860. In 1852 it raised 570,000 bushels of grain, and 656,000 bushels of potatoes.
The adjoining Santa Cruz presents a contrast in resources, with its vast forests of redwood and water-power along different streams, which fostered mills and factories, and for a long time placed the county next to San Francisco as a manufacturing field. Saw-mills, tanneries, ship-yards, foundries, existed on a certain scale prior to 1849, and powder-works and lime-kilns were added, together with some mining. The census of 1850 assigned it an improved acreage of 2,045. By 1880 the population had increased from 1,220 to 12,800, with 584 smaller farms, value $3,848,000, produce $726,000, live-stock $264,000. A commodious position at the mouth of San Lorenzo Creek assisted Santa Cruz, the city of terraces, to remain the leading town and seat, sustained greatly as the nearest seaside resort for the bay dwellers. Branciforte, the earlier real town, was merged in Sta Cruz, the mission settlement before the conquest, although the legislature of 1850 considered this same point. Cal. Jour. Ho., 1850, 1336. Population 3,900 by 1880. A similar control of water-power and resources made Soquel a prosperous manufacturing place, while the valley of Pájaro lifted Watsonville to the second rank. It was laid out in 1852 by J. H. Watson and D. S. Gregory. Clouded title for a time checked progress, Lat this being settled, it advanced, was incorporated in 1868, Cal. Statutes, 1$67-8, 688, obtained gas and water works, and by 1880 a population of 1,800. Watsonville Direct., 1873, 5-24, and later. Felton has saw-mills and lime-kilns.
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CALIFORNIA IN COUNTIES.
The development of San Mateo county is greatly due to its proximity to the metropolis, to which it once pertained, as the source for supplies and site for country residences and resorts. Upon its segregation in 1856, the seat of government was assigned to Belmont-where Angelo's hotel formed the initial settlement in 1850-1, and speedily made it the resort for which it is now chiefly famed-but was transferred the same year to Redwood City, whose valuable timber land and water route to the bay obtained for it a predominance which the rival town of San Mateo sought in vain to overcome, like the still less unsuccessful Menlo Park and Ravenswood. On the coast is a farming district supporting two small towns. Capt. A. Smith built the first honse at Redwood City; ship-building began the same year, and a squatter raid upon Las Pulgas rancho in 1852 brought population, for which W. Shaw opened the first store. Road traffic started wagon-making; mills and tanneries followed. In 1854 it was laid out by J. M. Mezes and named after him, but the familiar appellation Redwood prevailed, and was affirmed by the charter of 1867. Cal. Statutes, 1867-8, 411; 1873-4, 946; Redwood Times, Jan .- March 1879, etc. Population 1,380 in 1880. San Mateo was founded properly in 1863 as a railroad station for the many residents who had their villas there, and was of steady growth, partly as a way-station for Pescadero. In 1874 it was chosen as county seat, but by arbitration the dignity was retained for Redwood. Menlo Park was incorporated in 1874. Ravenswood was founded in 1853 as a shipping-point, but dropped down to a brick-yard. Pescadero, a popular resort, signifies fishing-place; Spanishtown was of gradual growth. The population of the county increased from 3,200 in 1860 to 8,670 in 1880; possessing 669 farms, valued at $7,916,000: produce $716,000; live-stock $511,000. The saw-mill industry was started by C. Brown just prior to the gold excitement.
Alameda ranked in the last census as the most productive agricultural county on the coast, yet it owes much to its position on the bay, and Oak- land, the official head, is practically a residence suburb of San Francisco, fitly the consort with balmier air and beauty, and with thriving educational establishments. When the county was organized in 1853, Alvarado became the seat of government as the most central among available settlements, and with a good shipping-place, to which San José mission and other points were tributary. Cal. Statutes, 1853, 319; Id., Jour. Ass., 1853, 692, 699. But polit- ical influence gained the privilege soon after for San Leandro, a town with similar advantages, but more attractive in site and appearance, which had to surrender it 20 years later to its powerful neighbor. It was laid out in 1851 as New Haven, by H. C. Smith, who as assemblyman manœuvred the crea- tion of the county and the seat, allowing the lieutenant-governor to rename the place in honor of the Mexican ex-governor. It grew, embraced Union City, and became the chief town of the southern section, with several facto- ries. Wash. Indep., Jan. 5, 1878. In 1850 San Leandro contained only the residence of J. J. Estudillo, the owner of the tract, and a school-house, but agriculture and river traffic gave it impulse. It gained the seat in 1854, but did not actually obtain it till 1856. It assumed incorporation honors i: 1872, partly to strengthen itself against Oakland's struggle for the county seat. This dignity was lost, yet the town continues to prosper. Cal. Statutes, 1856,
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