History of California, Volume VI, Part 18

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe
Publication date: 1885-1890
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers
Number of Pages: 816

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1 Opinions upon its merits have been expressed by many prominent ex- plorers. Gen. Smith strongly disparaged the site from a military and com- mercial point of view, while becoming enthusiastic over the advantages of Benicia.

156

SAN FRANCISCO.

Nevertheless, doubters became numerous with every periodic depression in business;2 and when the gold excitement carried off most of the population,3 the stanchest quailed, and the rival city at the straits, so much nearer to the mines, seemed to exult in pro- spective triumph. But the golden storm proved menacing only in aspect. During the autumn the inhabitants came flocking back again, in numbers daily increased by new arrivals, and rich in funds wherewith to give vitality to the town. Building operations were actively resumed, nothwithstanding the cost of labor,4 and real estate, which lately could not have found buyers at any price, now rose with a bound to many times its former value.5 The opening of the first wharf for sea-going vessels, the Broadway," may be regarded as the beginning of a revival, marked also by the resurrection of the defunct press,7 and the establishment of a school, and of regular protestant worship,8 propitiatory measures well needed in face of

2 As early in 1848, when several firms discontinued their advertisements in the Californian. Others thought it expedient, as we have seen, to seek a prop for the prevailing land and other speculations, by bringing the resources of the country and the importance of the town before the people of the east- ern states. This was done by the pen of Fourgeaud in the Cal. Star, Mar. 18, 1848, and following numbers.

3 The absorbing municipal election of Oct. 3d showed only 158 votes. Annals S. F., 206. See chapter i. in this vol. on condition in Jan., and chap- ter iv. on exodus.

4 Tenfold higher than in the spring. Effects stood in proportion. Eggs 812 a dozen; Hawaiian onions and potatoes $1.50 a Ib .; shovels $10 each, etc. The arrival of supplies lowered prices till flour sold at from $12 to $15 a bar- rel in Dec. Star and Cal., Dec. 1848; Buffum's Six Months, 23.

5 For spring prices, see preceding volume, v. 652-4. A strong influence was felt by the arrival in Sept. of the brig Belfast from New York, whose cargo served to lower the price of merchandise, but whose inauguration of the Broadway wharf as a direct discharging point inspired hope among the townsfolk. Real estate rose 50 per cent near the harbor; a lot vainly offered for $5,000 one day, 'sold readily the next for $10,000.' S. F. Directory, 1852, 9. By Nov. the prices had advanced tenfold upon those ruling in the spring, and rents rose from $10 and $20 to $20 and $100 per month. To returning lot-holders this proved another mine, but others complained of the rise as a drawback to settlement. Gillespie, in Larkin's Doc., MS., vi. 52, 66; Earl's Stat., MS., 10.

6 For earlier progress of wharves, see preceding vol., v. 655, 679.

" The Californian had maintained a spasmodic existence for a time till bought by the Cal. Star, which on Nov. 18th reappeared under the combined title, Star and Californian, after five months' suspension. In Jan. 1849 it ap- pears as the Alta California, weekly.

8 Rev. T. D. Hunt, invited from Honolulu, was chosen chaplain to the

167

INFLUX OF VESSELS.

the increased relapse into political obliquity and dis- sipation, to be expected from a population exuberant with sudden affluence after long privation.º

Yet this period was but a dull hibernation of expect- ant recuperation for renewed toil,10 as compared with the following seasons. The awakening came at the close of February with the arrival of the first steam- ship, the California, bearing the new military chief, General Persifer F. Smith, and the first instalment of gold-seekers from the United States. Then vessel followed vessel, at first singly, but erelong the hori- zon beyond the Golden Gate was white with approach- ing sails ; and soon the anchorage before Yerba Buena Cove, hitherto a glassy expanse ruffled only by the tide and breeze, and by some rare visitor, was thickly studded with dark hulks, presenting a forest of masts, and bearing the symbol and stamp of different countries, the American predominating. By the middle of No- vember upward of six hundred vessels had entered the harbor, and in the following year came still more.11 The larger proportion were left to swing at anchor in the bay, almost without guard-at one time more than 500 could be counted-for the crews, possessed no less than the passengers by the gold fever, rushed away at once, carrying off the ship boats, and caring little for the pay due them, and still less for the dilemma of the consignees or captain. The helpless commander frequently joined in the flight.12 So high was the cost of labor, and so glutted the market at times with cer- tain goods, that in some instances it did not pay to

citizens, with $2,500 a year. Services at school-house on Portsmouth square. Annals S. F., 207.

9 There were now general as well as local elections, particulars of which are given elsewhere.

W As spring approached, attention centred on preparations, with impatient waiting for opportunities to start for the mines. Hence the statement may not be wrong that 'most of the people of the city at that time had a cadav- erous appearance, .... a drowsy listlessness seemed to characterize the masses of the community.' First Steamship Pioneers, 366.

11 As will be shown in the chapter on commerce.

12 Taylor instances a case where the sailors coolly rowed off under the fire of the government vessels. El Dorado, i. 54. Merchants had to take care of many abandoned vessels. Fay's Facts, MS., 1-2.

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SAN FRANCISCO.

unload the cargo. Many vessels were left to rot, or to be beached for conversion into stores and lodging- houses.13 The disappointments and hardships of the mines brought many penitents back in the autumn, so as to permit the engagement of crews.

Of 40,000 and more persons arriving in the bay, the greater proportion had to stop at San Francisco to arrange for proceeding inland, while a certain number of traders, artisans, and others concluded to remain in the city, whose population thus rose from 2,000 in Feb- ruary to 6,000 in August, after which the figure began to swell under the return current of wintering or sati- ated miners, until it reached about 20,000.14

To the inflowing gold-seekers the aspect of the famed El Dorado city could not have been very in- spiring, with its straggling medley of low dingy adobes of a by-gone day, and frail wooden shanties born in an

13 By cutting holes for doors and windows and adding a roof. Merrill, Stat., MS., 2-4, instances the well-known Niantic and Gen. Harrison. Lar- kin, in Doc. Hist. Cal., vii. 288, locates the former at N. w. corner Sansome and Clay, and the latter (owned by E. Mickle & Co.) at N. w. corner Bat- tery and Clay. He further places the Apollo storeship, at N. w. corner Sacra- mento and Battery, and the Georgean between Jackson and Washington, west of Battery st. Many sunk at their moorings. As late as Jan. 1857 old hulks still obstructed the harbor, while still others had been overtaken by the bayward march of the city front, and formed basements or cellars to tene- ments built on their decks. Even now, remains of vessels are found under the filled foundations of honses. Energetic proceedings of the harbor-master finally cleared the channel. This work began already in 1850. Chas Hare made a regular business of taking the vessels to pieces; and soon the observ- ant Chinese saw the profits to be made, and applied their patient energy to the work. Among the sepulchred vessels I may mention the Cadmus, which carried Lafayette to America in 1824; the Plover, which sailed the Arctic in search of Franklin; the Regulus, Alceste, Thames, Neptune, Golconda, Mersey, Caroline Augusta, Dianthe, Genetta de Goito, Candace, Copiapo, Talca, Bay State, and others.

14 It is placed at 3,000 in March, 5,000 in July, and from 12,000 to 15,000 in Oct., the latter by Taylor, Eldorado, 205, and a writer in Home Miss., xxiii. 208. Some even assume 30,000 at the end of 1849. In the spring the cur- rent set in for the mines, leaving a small population for the summer. The first directory, of Sept. 1850, contained 2,500 names, and the votes cast in Oct. reached 3,440. Sac. Transcript, Oct. 14, 1850. Hittell, S. F., 147-8, as- sumes not over 8,000 in Nov. 1849, on the strength of the vote then cast of 2,056, while allowing about 25,000 in another place for Dec. The Annals S. F., 219, 226, 244, insists upon at least 20,000, probably nearer 25,000. There are other estimates in Mayne's B. Col. 157. The figures differ in Crosby's Erents, MS., 12; Williams' Stat., MS., 3; Green's Life, MS., 19; Burnett's Recol . MS., ii. 36; Bartlett's Stat., MS., 3.

169

THE EMBRYO METROPOLIS.

NORTH PT

BAY

FRANCISCO.

STREET

ÆEACH

STREET

STRES

GREENWICH

STREE

HYDE

UNION

HILL

STREET

AV_JWD

VALLEJO

STREET

STRES

PACIFIC

STRET

TAYLOR

STREET

TOWN

- BUCKELEW'S WHF

W A

CLARK'S POINT

STREET

PACIFIC ST.WHF

CKION

.- JACKSON ST.WHF

KEARNY

MIMO --- CLAY ST. WHF

BUCH

HOWISON'S WHF

VALLEY

STOLL

RID

STREET

MARKET

SAND 60

STREET

ASANTO

TOAD

MISSION

PLEAS

" MISSION

STREET

TREE

FREMONT m

STREET

SPEAH

FIRST

STREET

DEALE

GOVT

FROM

FOLSE VI

THIRD

HARRISON

TRE

. CENTRAL WHF

SUTTER

ANN'S

BAINTI

STREF

-- CALIFORNIA ST.WMF

SANSOME

MARKET ST. WHF

-IN - 1849-50.

SAND RIQUE

STEVENSON

STREET

STREE

VALLEY

YERBA BUENA

PORT

COVE.

SAN FRANCISCO

The graded shading indicates the rel- ative density of occupation in the business and leading residence sections

STPEFT

RINCON PT

RESERV

NORTH

STREE

FILBERT

THEI

STREET

HILL

STREET

STRE

GREEN

RUS

STREET

ONES BROADWAY

==_ LAW'S WHF

MASON

G NG . VALLEY

BRO

A D

-= CUNNINGHAM WMF

-« - BROADWAY WHF

PORTS- MOUTH

SQUARE

OUPONT

WASHINGTON ST.WHF

CALIFORNIA

JACKSON

LLE

WASHINGTON

CLAY

TELEGRAPH

FT .

STREET

SECOND

SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849.

STREET

170

SAN FRANCISCO.

afternoon, with a sprinkling of more respectable frame houses, and a mass of canvas and rubber habitations. The latter crept outward from the centre to form a flapping camp-like suburb around the myriad of sand hills withered by rainless summer, their dreariness scantily relieved by patches of chaparral and sage- brush, diminutive oak and stunted laurel, upon which the hovering mist-banks cast their shadow. 15

It was mainly a city of tents, rising in crescent in- cline upon the shores of the cove. Stretching from Clark Point on the north-east, it skirted in a narrow band the dominant Telegraph hill, and expanded along the Clay-street slopes into a more compact settlement of about a third of a mile, which tapered away along the California-street ridge. Topographic peculiarities compelled the daily increasing canvas structures to spread laterally, and a streak extended northward along Stockton street; but the larger number passed to the south-west shores of the cove, beyond the Mar- ket-street ridge, a region which, sheltered from the blustering west winds and provided with good spring water, was named Happy Valley.16 . Beyond an at-

15 Hardly any visitor fails to dilate upon the dreary bareness of the hills, a 'corpse-like waste,' as Pfeiffer, Lady's Second Jour., 288, has it. Helper's Land of Gold, 83.

16 All this shore beyond California street, for several blocks inland, was called Happy Valley; yet the term applied properly to the valley about l'irst, Second, Mission, and Natoma sts. The section along Howard st was known as Pleasant Valley. Deun's Stat., MS., 1; Currey's Incidents, MS., 4; Willey, and pioneer letters in S. F. Bulletin, May 17, 1859; Jan. 23, Sept. 10, 1867. The unclaimed soil was also an attraction. The hill which at the present Palace Hotel rose nearly threescore feet in height in a measure turned the wind. Yet proportionately more people died in this valley, says Garniss, Early Days, MS., 10, than in the higher parts of S. F. Currey estimates the number of tents here during the winter 1849-50 at 1,000, and adds that the dwellings along Stockton st, north from Clay, were of a superior order. Ubi sup., 8. Details on the extent of the city are given also in Williams' Recol., MS., 6; Merrill, Stat., MS., 2, wherein is observed that it took half an hour to reach Fourth st from the plaza, owing to the trail winding round sand hills. Sutton's Early Exper., MS., 1; Barstow's Stat., MS., 2; Roach's Stat., MS., 2; Doolittle's Stat., MS., 2; Upham's Notes, 221; Turrill's Cal. Notes, 22-7; Winans' Stat., MS., 514; Fay's Facts, MS., 3; Findla's Stat., MS., 3, 9; Robinson's Cal. and Its Gold Reg., 10; Walton's Facts, S; Richardson's Missis., 448, with view of S. F. in 1847; Lloyd's Lights and Shades, 18-20; Saxon's Five Years, 309-12; Henshaw's Events, MS., 2; Richardson's Mining, MS., 10-11; Frisbie's Remin., MS., 36-7; Sixteen Months, 46, 167; Cal. Gold . Regions, 105, 214; Hutchings' Mag., i. 83; Dilke's Greater Britain, 209, 228-32; Clemens'

171

TELEGRAPH HILL.

tenuated string continued toward the government reservation at Rincon Point, the south-east limit of the cove.17

Thus the city was truly a fit entrepôt for the gold region. Yet, with the distinctive features of different nationalities, it had in the aggregate a stamp of its own, and this California type is still recognizable despite the equalizing effect of intercourse, especially with the eastern states.

The first striking landmark to the immigrant was Telegraph hill, with its windmill-like signal house and pole, whose arms, by their varying position, indicated the class of vessel approaching the Golden Gate.18 And many a flutter of hope and expectation did they evoke when announcing the mail steamer, laden with letters and messengers, or some long-expected clipper- ship with merchandise, or perchance bringing a near and dear relative! Along its southern slopes dwell- ings began rapidly to climb, with squatters' eyries perched upon the rugged spurs, and tents nestling in the ravines. Clark Point, at its foot, was for a time a promising spot, favored by the natural landing ad- vantages, and the Broadway pier, the first ship wharf; and its section of Sansome street was marked by a number of corrugated iron stores; but with the rapid extension of the wharf system, Montgomery street reaffirmed its position as the base line for business. Most of the heavy import firms were situated along its eastern side, including a number of auction-houses, conspicuous for their open and thronged doors, and the

Roughing It, 410, 417, 444; Noue. Annales Voy., 1849, 224; Voorhies' Oration, 4-5; Pac. News, Nov. 27, 1849; Dec. 27, 1850; New and Old, 69 et seq .; Mc- Collum's Cal., 33-6. Earlier details at the close of preceding volume.

17 A mile across from Clark Point. These two points presented the only boat approach at low water. A private claim to Rincon Point reservation was subsequently raised ou the ground that the spot had been preempted by one White; but government rights were primary in cases involving military defences. S. F. Times, Apr. 7th.

18 This improved signal-station, in a two-story house 25 ft by 18, was erected in Sept. 1849. Reminiscences in S. F. Call, Dec. S, 1870; Taylor's El- dorado, i. 117. After the telegraph connected the outer ocean station with the city, the hill became mainly a resort for visitors. The signal-house was blown down in Dec. 1870.

172

SAN FRANCISCO.

hum of sellers and bidders. On the mud-flats in their rear, exposed by the receding tide, lay barges unload- ing merchandise. Toward the end of 1849, piling and filling pushed warehouses ever farther out into the cove, but Montgomery street retained most of the business offices, some occupying the crossing thor- oughfares. Clay street above Montgomery became a dry-goods centre. Commercial street was opened, and its water extension, Long Wharf, unfolded into a pedler's avenue and Jews' quarter, where Cheap Johns with sonorous voices and broad wit attracted crowds of idlers. The levee eastward was transformed into Leidesdorff street, and contained the Pacific Mail Steamship office. California street, which marked the practical limit of settlement in 1848, began to attract some large importing firms; and thither was transferred in the middle of 1850 the custom-house, round which clustered the express offices and two places of amusement. Nevertheless, the city by that time did not extend beyond Bush street, save in the line along the shore to Happy Valley, where manu- facturing enterprises found a congenial soil, fringed on the west by family residences.

Kearny street was from the first assigned to retail shops, extending from Pine to Broadway streets, and centring round Portsmouth square, a bare spot, relieved alone by the solitary liberty-pole, and the animals in and around it.19 The bordering sides of the plaza were, however, mainly occupied by gambling-houses, flooded with brilliant light and music, and with flaring streamers which attracted idlers and men seeking re- laxation. Additional details, with a list of business firms and notable houses and features, I append in a note. 20 At the corner of Pacific street stood a four-

19 It long remained a cow-pen, enclosed by rough boards. Helper's Land of Gold, 74.

20 A record of the business and professional community of S. F. in 1849- 50 cannot be made exhaustive or rigidly accurate for several obvious reasons. There was a constant influx and reflux of people from and to the interior, especially in the spring and autumn. The irregularity in building and numbering left much confusion; and the several sweeping conflagrations

173

AROUND CLARK POINT.

story building adorned with balconies, wherein the City Hall had found a halting-place after much mi-

which caused the ruin, disappearance, and removal of many firms and stores, added to the confusion. Instability characterized this early period here as well as in the ever-shifting mining camps. I would have preferred to limit the present record of the city to 1849 as the all-important period, but the autumn and spring movements force me over into the middle of 1850. The vagueness of some of my authorities leads me occasionally to overstep even this line. These authorities are, foremost, the numerous manuscript dicta- tions and documents obtained from pioneers, so frequently quoted in this and other chapters; the ayuntamiento minutes; advertisements and notices in the Alta California, Pacific News, Journal of Commerce, California Courier, S. F. Herald, Evening Picayune, and later newspapers; and Kimball's Directory of S. F. for 1850, the first work of the kind here issued. It is a 16mo of 109 pages, with some 2,500 names, remarkable for its omissions, errors, and lack of even alphabetical order, yet of great value. The Men and Memories of San Francisco in the Spring of 1850, by T. A. Barry and B. A. Patten, S. F., 1873, 12mo, 296 pp., which has taken its chief cue from the above directory, wanders often widely from the period indicated on the title-page, yet offers many interesting data. I also refer to my record for the city in 1848, in the preceding vol., v. 676 et seq. The favorite landing-place for passengers of 1849 was the rocks at Clark Point, so called after Wm S. Clark, who still owns the warehouse here erected by him in 1847-8, at the N.E. corner of Battery and Broadway. At the foot of Broadway extended also the first wharf for vessels, a short structure, which by Oct. 1850 had been stretched a distance of 250 feet, by 40 in width. The name Commercial applied to it for a while soon yielded to Broadway. Here were the offices of the harbor- master, river and bar pilots, and Sacramento steamer, and for a time the brig Treaty lay at the pier as a storage ship, controlled by Whitman & Sal- mon, merchants. On the same wharf were the offices of Flint (Jas P. and Ed.), Peabody, & Co., Osgood & Eagleston, commission merchants; Geo. H. Peck, produce merchant; F. Vassault & Co. (W. F. Roelofson), Col Marsh, Col Ben. Poor, Jos. P. Blair, agent of the Aspinwall steamship line, J. Badkins, grocer, and the noted Steinberger's butcher-shop.

Near by, to the north, were three pile projections. First, Cunningham wharf, between Vallejo and Green sts, in Oct. 1850, 375 ft long, 33 ft wide, with a right-angle extension of 320 ft by 30, at a depth of 25 ft cost $75,000. Here lay for a time the storage ship Resoluta, in care of the pilot agent Nelson. For building grant of wharf to Jos. Cunningham, see S. F. Minutes, 1849, 197-8. At the foot of Green st and toward Union st were the extensions of B. R. Buckelew & Co., general merchants, and the Law or Green-st-wharf build- ing in the autumn of 1850. Southward stretched the wharf extension of Pacific st, a solid structure 60 ft wide, of which in Oct. 1850 525 ft were completed, out of the proposed 800 ft, to cost $60,000. On its north side, beyond Battery st, lay the storage ship Arkansas. Near it was the butcher- shop of Tim Burnham, and the office of Hy. Wetherbee, merchant. Near the foot of Broadway st, appropriately so named from its extra width, were the offices of Wm E. Stoughtenburgh, auctioneer and com. mer .; Hutton & Miller (M. E.); Ellis (J. S., later sheriff S. F.) & Goin (T.); and L. T. Wil- son, shipping; Hutton (J. F.) & Timmerman, com. mer .; D. Babcock, drug- gist; D. Chandler, market. On Battery st, named after the Fort Montgom- ery battery of 1846 which stood at the water edge north of Vallejo st, rose the Fremont hotel of John Sutch, near Vallejo, and the Bay hotel of Pet. Guevil. On either side of the street, between Vallejo and Broadway, were the offices of Ed. H. Castle, mer .; Gardiner, Howard, & Co., Hazen & Co., Jos. L. Howell, J. H. Morgan & Co. (A. E. Kitfield, John Lentell), L. R. Mills, J. H. Morton & Co., corner of Vallejo, the last three grocers; Nat. Mil- ler is marked both as grocer and lumber dealer; Wm Suffern, saddler; south of Broadway were Brooks & Friel, tin-plate workers.

On Broadway, between Battery and Sansome sts, were the offices of C. A.

174

SAN FRANCISCO.

grating, in conjunction with the jail and court-rooms. The opposite block, stretching toward Montgomery

Bertrand, shipping; at the Battery corner, Win Clark, mer .; John Elliott, com. mer .; Geo. Farris & Co. (S. C. Northrop and Edwin Thompson), gen. store. Half a dozen additional Point hostelries were here represented by the Illinois house of S. Anderson, at the Battery corner, Broadway house of Wm M. Bruner, the rival Broadway hotel of L. Dederer, Lovejoy's hotel of J. Il. Brown, Lafayette hotel of L. Guiraud, and Albion house of Croxton & Ward, the latter four between Sansome and Montgomery sts, in which section were also the offices of White, Graves, & Buckley, and Ang. A. Watson & Co ; HI. Marks & Bro., gen. store; Wm H. Towne, and Dederer & Valentine, gro- cers. West of Battery ran Sansome st, from Telegraph hill cliffs at Broadway to the cove at Jackson st, well lined with business places, and conspicuous for the number of corrugated iron buildings. At the west corner of Broad- way rosc the 33-story wooden edifice of J. W. Bingham, O. Reynolds, and F. A. & W. A. Bartlett, com. mer. In the same block was the office of De Witt (Alf. & Harrison, (H. A.), one of the oldest firms, later Kittle & Co .; also Casc, Heiser, & Co., and Mahoney, Ripley, & McCullongh, on the N. w. Pacific-st corner, who dealt partly in ammunition. At the Pacific-st corner were also Wm H. Mosher & Co. (W. A. Bryant, W. F. Story, W. Adain), and E. S. Stone & Co., com. mers, and Hawley's store. In the same section were the offices of Muir (A.) & Greene (E.), brokers; Jos. W. Hartman and Jas Hogan, mers, are assigned to Telegraph hill. The well-known C. J. Collins had a hat-shop on this street, and Jose Suffren kept a grocery at the Broadway corner.

The section of Sansome st, between Pacific and Jackson sts, was even more closely occupied. At Gold st, a lane running westward along the cove, L. B. Hanks had established himself as a lumber dealer. Buildings had risen on piles beyond the lane, however, on the corners of Jackson st, occupied by Coghill (H. J.) & Arrington (W.), com. mer .; Bullet & Patrick (on the opposite side), Buzby & Bros, F. M. Warren & Co. (C. E. Chapin, S. W. Shelter), ship and com. mer .; Hotalling & Barnstead, Huerlin & Belcher, gen. dealers, and Ed. H. Parker. Northward in the section were Ellis (M.), Crosby (C. W.), & Co. (W. A. Beecher), Cross (Al.), Hobson (Jos.), & Co. (W. Hooper), Under- wood (Thos), McKnight (W. S.), & Co. (C. W. Crcely), Dana Bros (W. A. & H. T.), W. H. Davenport, Grayson & Guild, and J. B. Lippincott & Co., all com. mers; E. S. Lovel, mer .; Chard, Johnson (D. M.), & Co., gen. importers, at Gold st; Simmons, Lilly, & Co., clothing. J. W. & S. H. Dwinelle, coun- sellors, were in Cross & Hobson's building. On Pacific st, adjoining, was the office of Wm Burlin, mer., the grocery stores of T. W. Legget and Man. Sufiloni, the confectionery store of J. H. & T. M. Gale, and three hotels, Union, Marine, and du Commerce, kept by Geo. Brown, C. C. Stiles, and C. Renault, the last two between Sansome st and Ohio st, the latter a lane run- ning parallel to the former, from Pacific to Broadway.

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History of California, Volume VI, Part 18

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe Publication date: 1885-1890 Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers Number of Pages: 816

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe
Publication date: 1885-1890
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers
Number of Pages: 816