History of California, Volume VI, Part 50

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe
Publication date: 1885-1890
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers
Number of Pages: 816

USA > California > History of California, Volume VI > Part 50

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447

SACRAMENTO AND SUTTERVILLE.

The best prospects for an interior city lay naturally along the Sacramento River, near the mouth of its last great tributary, the gate to the central and northern parts of the great valley, This advantage must have influenced the founder of Sutter's Fort; but the small extent of its hill site, surrounded by low-lying banks which were subject to overflow in very wet seasons, was in- adequate for a city, and such a one being required, Sutterville was laid out on the rising ground three miles below, whence a dry wagon-road to the moun- tains could be constructed. It made slow progress, for the fort still retained the ascendency, by virtue of its ferry, supplies, stores, and workshops. The gold excitement, however, while assuring urban preëminence to this quarter, demanded quickly an expansion of site, and it was to be expected that the chosen spot, Sutterville, should become the centre. " Had I not been snowed in at Coloma," said Sutter to me at Litiz, "Sacramento never, never, would have been built." But the Swiss potentate lacked business ability. He had vast resources and golden opportunities; but in his wide-reaching plans he had become heavily involved, and to escape his creditors he transferred his property to his son, John A. Sutter, a young man lately from school. This took place Oct. 14, 1848. Sutter's Per. Rem., MS., pp. 178-81; Placer Times, Dec. 15, 1849; Sac. Ill., p 8, Alta Cal , Feb 6, 1853; S. F. Herald, Feb. 9, 1853; Tuthill's Hist. Cal., p 297 For testimony, In re John C. Rerley vs A. Heisch et al., 1860, see Sac. Directory, 1871. As the interest in Sutterville had mostly passed out of his hands, Sutter permitted his son to lay out another town at the embarcadero, or landing, just below the fort, to which the name of the river was applied.

The fort had frequently been called by that name, although Tehama was the Indian appellation. The survey was made by Wm H. Warner, of the U. S. topog. engineers. He was shot in 1849 by the Indians while surveying near the sources of Feather River. The fort formed the nucleus of his opera- tions; thence down to the embarcadero and along the river bank he laid out streets. Those parallel with the stream were called First, Second, Third, etc .; those at right angles to it A, B, C, etc .; the avenue bordering on the river was called Front street. All were 80 feet wide except the centre street, M, which was made 100 feet. The blocks were 320 by 400 feet, divided by 20-foot alleys running east and west. The landing-place was in itself no small advantage in favor of Sacramento, while the slough at Sutterville, which required bridging, operated against the latter. Sutter's Pers. Rem., MS., 178-81; Placer Times, Dec 15, 1849; Sherman's Mem , i. 59, 77; Bur- nett's Per. Rec., MS., ii. 1-2; Id., Rec , 287-8. Winans, Days of 1849, MS., 8, and Crosby, Events, MS., 27, differ on the date and surveyor. A year later Seton, Ord, and Sherman were employed to connect Warner's survey of Sacramento with Davidson's survey of Sutterville. An auction sale of lots to be held at Sutter's Fort on Jan 8, 1849, was advertised under date of Dec. 2d, in the Star and Cal. of Dec. 23, 1848. The first sales were near the fort, but at the close of Jan. 1849 lots near the river came into demand. The pur- chase of more than four lots to one person was discouraged in order to pro- mote settlement, which was also favored by time payments and uniform prices. P. H. Burnett became on Dec. 30th the attorney for Sutter, jr. He received one fourth of the proceeds, but becoming too rapidly rich, according

448

CITY BUILDING.

to Sutter's idea, the power was transferred to Peachy, who shared the sale with Schoolcraft. In less than six months Burnett sold half of his lots for $50,000. "Peachy made $80,000 out of me," says Sutter, Autobiog., 178-9. At the close of 1848 there were at the embarcadero only two houses, one a drinking-saloon, the other occupied by the Stewart family, and a dismantled ship, which G. McDougall and his partners, Blackburn, Parker, and Barton, had brought from San Francisco laden with goods, and moored as a store at the foot of I street. Burnett, Per. Rec., MS., ii. 14-16, calls both of the houses log cabins. Henshaw, Stat., MS., 2, designates only one as of logs, the other as a wooden building. Buffum, Six Mo., 32, differs somewhat; but changes were rapid in those days.

In January 1849 a frame building was placed at the corner of Front and I sts, by Hensley, Reading, and Company, followed by the cloth houses of Ingersoll on Front st, between J and K, and of Stewart on the river bank between I and J, the latter as a tavern. Sam Brannan completed a frame store at the corner of J and Front sts in February, about which time also Priest, Lee, & Co. moved from the fort to occupy new premises, of cloth, says Barnes, Or. and Cal., MS., 14. Gillespie and Carpenter erected log houses. Sac. Ill., 8, and others wrongly call Brannan's the first building in Sacra- mento. Crosby's Events, MS., 15; Taylor's Oreg., MS., 5. The original store of Brannan, associated with Mellus, Howard, Greene, & Stout, was a one-story adobe 50 yards east of the fort. Grimshaw's Narr., MS., 22-7; Morse, in Sac. Dir., 1853-4.

. The first public sale of lots on January 8, 1849, was quickly followed by the erection of business houses and dwellings. Sutterville attempted under the direction of McDougall & Co. to gain the ascendency, but a lavish distri- bution of lots by Sutter thwarted her, and further judicious efforts tended to direct hither the inflowing migration by land and water. Vessels gathered along the bank, and midst the thickly sprinkled tents rose pretentious, if not substantial, canvas and frame buildings, which by June numbered 100, and lots which four months previously had sold for $250 commanded now as much as $3,000. Sacramento absorbed also the remnant of trade so far trans- acted at the fort, leaving New Helvetia a neglected suburban spot, and dealt at the same time an effective blow at the still struggling Sutterville.

McDougall & Co. had a large amount of money, and began to feel very strong. From Sutter they obtained a lease of the ferry privilege, near the outlet of Sutter Lake; on the strength of which they claimed the exclusive right to 400 yards of river bank. This being disallowed, they became angry, swore vengeance against young Sutter and his Sacramento town, and moved their hulk to Sutterville. They urged Priest, Lee, & Co. and Brannan to move to the better site below, offering them a gift of eighty lots in Sutter- ville. Seeing their advantage, these men manipulated Sutter so well as to get 500 Sacramento lots for remaining. See Winans' Days of 1849, MS., 7-8; Taylor's Oregonians, MS., 5; and Nar., MS., 10, by McChristian, who was a clerk of McDougall's.

In October the first brick house, the Anchor, was completed by G. Zins, the brick being made by him at Sutterville, where the first brick house in the state had already been erected from the first kiln of his brick-yard. Hist. Sac.

449

NOTABLE HOUSES AND FIRMS.

Co., 50, 146. Harnett burnt one kiln this year at Sac., and in 1851 Carlish added brick-making to his building operations. Among other notable houses which rose during the autumn of 1849 were the zinc warehouse near the out- let of Lake Sutter; the zinc house, and the Empire saloon building on J street, between Front and Second; Merritt's building on the corner of J and Second; the brick block on Front st, between N and O sts; the St Louis Exchange, kept by a brother of Commodore Garrison; and the theatre, a frail structure near the City hotel. For additional information, see McIlvaine's Sketches, 7, with view of town; Culver's Directory; Sac. Transcript, May 29, 1850, which rashly reduces the number of houses; Matthewson's Stat., MS., 1-2; Friend, Dec. 1, 1849; Richardson's Mining, MS., 13; the Stat., of Carpenter, who put up a doctor's shop on the corner of K and Second; Stat., of Brock, who opened a tinware shop; Armstrong's Exper., MS., 15. 'A town of tents,' says Cole- man, Bus. Exp., MS., 141-4, with its 'future on paper,' adds Woods, Sixteen Mo., 47. At the end of June 1849 the embarcadero contained eleven wholesale houses, according to the Placer Times: Priest, Lee, & Co., with P. B. Corn- wall as partner, Hensley, Reading, & Co., Brannan, Whitlock and Gibson, Samuel Norris, Gillespie, Ingersoll, Robinson, D. Hanna, R. Gelston, and Taber. Beside these were fourteen smaller stores. Mr Henshaw in his manu- script gives lengthy details of events, such as the wedding, on June 10th, of James H. Lappens and Ann Hitchcock. The Fourth of July was celebrated in a grove adjacent, and with fire-works. The second week in July the ther- mometer marked at noon 114°, and at night 82°. Z. Hubbard's obscene Ronnd Tent for a time eclipsed all competitors. This was followed by the Gem, the Empire, the Mansion, the Humboldt, the Diana, and others. There was one called the Plains, with its walls adorned with scenic illustrations of the route across the continent. 'Building lots which four months previous had sold at from $50 to $200,' writes Buffum in April, 'were now held by their owners at from $1,000 to $3,000.' Yet Morse assumes that the population at the fort, Sac., and Sutterville did not exceed 150 April 1st. Dir. Sac., 1853, 4. On June 20th, however, he estimates the number of houses at Sac. alone at 100, among which was rising the City hotel, erected from the material prepare.l for Sutter's flonring mill, on Front st, between I and J, 35 by 55 feet, three stories in height, costing $100,000, and renting to Fowler and Fry a few months later for $5,000 a month. Placer Times, Feb. 16, 1850; Bayard Taylor's Eldorado, i. 220. Shortly after McCollum, Cal., 46, mentions the U. S. hotel as the best. The Sutter house rose on Front st, between K and L, and Mc- Knight's American hotel on K st, between Second and Third.

In March Burnett visited S. F. to meet the incoming tide of gold-seekers and direct it to Sac. Meanwhile several vessels gathered along the banks, including the square-rigged Eliodora, Joven Guipuzcoana, and the bark Whiton, in April and May, some to serve for store-ships and wharves; and habitations rose in all directions, most of them frail and transient in character, of boards, canvas stretched on sticks, and common tents. April 28th the weekly Placer Times was issued by Ed. Kemble & Co. to trumpet the town. The embar- cadero boasts 25 or 30 stores, it cries; the fort and its vicinity 8 or 10 more. There is a hotel, a printing-office, bakery, blacksmith-shop, tin-shop, billiard- room, bowling-alley, to say nothing of drinking-saloons, and houses of pros- HIST. CAL., VOL. VI. 29

450

CITY BUILDING.

titution. Though an exceedingly healthy place, as the editor affirmed, it should still have a hospital. Sacramento will become great. For if all these rising institutions were not enough, there was the inauguration of the game of monte in the famous Stinking Tent, kept by James Lee.

About June, Sutter, jr, reconveyed to the father his estates; titles for the sold lots were perfected, and with the changes of agents a spirit of rivalry sprang up between the fort and town. The former had so far retained a prominent position as mail station, as general point of arrival and departure, and as the site for numerous branch stores, all of which served to sustain a lively intercourse between the two places, so much so that three lines of stages were kept busy making each several trips daily. But Sutter, jr, quarrelled with Hensley and Reading, the leading firm, and retired May Ist from their partnership, J. R. Snyder taking his place; whereupon the firm withdrew from the fort, and concentrated their business at the more conve- nient landing. Others followed their example, giving a share to Sutterville, till the fort was deserted by traffic, and employed chiefly for hospital pur- poses. Sutterville seized the opportunity to strengthen itself, and the McDougall firm sought to attract trade by loudly offering to sell goods at cost; but the shrewd Sac. dealers combined to purchase them, and so thwarted the manœuvre. Nevertheless their prospects looked fair for a while. Geo. Mckinstry opened a store; a hotel was begun and a ferry proposed, and a few vessels were staying there to land intended settlers. The latter received poor encouragement, however, for L. W. Hastings, who owned the central part of the town, could not be induced to sell at reasonable prices, despite the efforts of McDougall and Mckinstry, the holders of the outskirts on either side. Finally the latter made matters worse by quarrelling. The quartering here of a U. S. garrison during 1849 served only momentarily to sustain the fast stagnating town. Sac. Transcript, May 29, Sept. 30, 1850; S. F. Daily Herald, Feb. 9, 1833; McChristian, in Pioneer Sketches, MS., 10; Sherman's Mem., i. 77; Brooks' Four Months, 27; Morse, in Sac. Directory, 1853-4; Sac. Illus. Hist., 8; Buffum's Six Months, 152-3; Frost's Hist. Cal., 113; Sherwood's Cal., 30; Bur- nett's Rec., MS., ii. 29; Sac. Directory, 1853-4, 9; Schmolder, Wegweiser, 78, with plan.

'A feature of this progress was the rapid increase of river traffic, marked 'by the inauguration, in August, of steam service by the George Washington. Within three months half a dozen rivals appeared on the scene, including the commodious Senator. Sailing vessels also ascended the river to save the ex- pense of transshipment, and to serve here for storing goods, and by May 1850 a fleet of 85 sea-going bottoms lay in the stream, with a tonnage of over 12,000, half of which was claimed for storage. The dignity of a port of entry, bestowed since April, was consequently well merited. It was a place surging with speculation and uproarious with traffic; profits reaching more than 100 per cent above the rates accepted at the city on the bay, and rents ruling as high as $5,000 a month for a building, while lots crept up to $30,000. Not- withstanding the flimsiness of the structures, their value toward the close of 1849 was estimated at $2,000,000.

On the 15th of August a scow was launched, and two days later the George Washington, the first river steamboat of California, arrived from Benicia. In

451

RIVER NAVIGATION.

September the Sacramento was launched a mile above the town, and shortly after arrived another of the same name, of scow build, which sold for $40,000. Alta Cal., Jan. 4, 1850; Placer Times, Aug. 18, 1850. In October, the steam- boats Mint and McKim introduced a more regular and superior communication with S. F., although both were surpassed by the Senator, which made her appearance here Nov. 6th. Rates of passage were $30 and $20 for cabin and deck, and freight $2.50 per 100 lbs, or $1 per foot. The shipping interest had by this time grown to respectable proportions. On Sept. Ist there were 8 barks, 11 brigs, and 7 schooners along the bank, and by April 1850 they had increased to some 20 barks and ships, 27 brigs, and a number of minor craft, ranging as high as 400 tons, and drawing over 10 feet of water. For May 1850, the harbor-master reported 33 store-ships at the levee, with a tonnage of 6,628; 52 ships, barks, and brigs, 5,577 tons; 16 regular steamers, 2,065 tons; his receipts $3,356. Sac. Transcript, Apr. 26, June 29, Nov. 14, 1850; Placer Times, May 26, Nov. 17, 1849; March 9, 1850, etc .; Sac. Directory, 1871, 52; Id., 1873, 15; Cal. Courier, Sept. 14, 1850; Upham's Notes, 299-300, 312. Even vessels drawing 12 feet could reach the American River, says Currey, Incid., MS., 7. The ferry to the Washington side of the river, im- proved with horse-power, was in 1850 converted into a steamboat, Alpha, to suit the increasing traffic. The rates were $2 for a two-horse wagon, ani- mals 50 cents each, man and horse 75 cents. Roads to the interior were im- proved for the hundreds of teams daily passing. A post-office had been established at the embarcadero in the middle of 1849, on board the Whiton, H. E. Robinson being the first postmaster; but the service proved so irregular, especially during the winter, that expresses had to be invoked. Placer Times, July 20, Aug. 1, 16, Oct. 13, 1850; Sac. Transcript, May 9, Sept. 30, 1850; Alta Cal., Dec. 21, 1850. See also Larkin's Doc., vii. 92, 123; Winans' Stat., MS., 7-17, 20, referring to general security here in 1849; Barstow's Stat., MS., 3; Matthewson's Stut., MS., 1-2; Crosby's Erents, MS., 15; Staples' Stat., MS., 7. The real estate on I street was valued at half a million, says Taylor, El- dorado, i. 225. Anything would sell, common flannel shirts at from $5 to $8, blankets $12 to $20, boots $20 to $32; flour rose to $50 per barrel during the autumn, mutton $1 a pound; labor $10 and upward, carpenters striking for more than the $12 a day offered. Taylor's Eldorado, i. 225-6; Lett's Cal., 131- 3; Wheaton's Stat., MS., 7; Winans' Stat., MS., 7-17; Delano's Life, 251; Placer Times, Feb. 16, 1850; Talbot vs Hopper, 76; Fay's Facts, MS., 7; Cole- man's Vig., MS., 144-5; Buffum's Six Mo., 32, 110; Placer Times, Aug .- Dec. 1849, passim; Crosby's Stat., MS., 15; Willey's Mem., 94-5; Grimshaw's Nar., MS., 33-43.

As the influx by sea gave impulse to S. F., so the migration overland and to the mines favored the city of the plains, assisting to collect here a popula- tion, by Oct. 1849, of about 2,000, with a vote of 1,300; by Dec. fully double, and by the following winter nearly 10,000, including travellers, sustaining some 400 stores, with several manufacturing establishments, notably three steam-mills. The estimate for the end of 1850 was 7,000 residents, besides perhaps 3,000 transient persons-a figure which Taylor, Eldorado, i. 219-20, hastily assigns for 1849, Letts, Cal. Ill., 131, giving even a higher estimate. The calculations of the Sac. Transcript for the beginning of Nov. 1, 1850, is

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CITY BUILDING

limited to 6,000 inhabitants, including 460 females, with 403 stores, 80 of which sold clothing. There were 65 blacksmith-shops, 3 steam-mills, 8 cab- inet-shops, 2 soda factories, 3 lemon-syrup factories, 2 breweries, 8 livery- stables, 90 physicians, 70 lawyers. Repeated in Cal. Courier and S. F. Her- all, Nov. 18, 1850; Culver's Sac. Direct., 78-9; Upham's Notes, 307. The vote in Oct. 1850, before the winter influx had properly set in, numbered 2,219, against 3,440 for S. F. Sac. Transcript, passim.

It was a tented city, of young men, with a sprinkling of women, yet not altogether of sturdy youth; for hither came inexperienced miners with mal- adies brought on by toil and exposure, and emigrants reduced by the hard- ships of transit, until on every hand suffering appealed to the sympathies of the people, and not in vain, The Odd Fellows organized and set the example in deeds of charity and in establishing hospitals, which soon came to serve in a far worse strait, when in the following autumn cholera broke out, carrying off fully 500 persons, and frightening away several thousand of the inhabitants.

A hospital at the fort charged $16 a day for the few patients tended by the city; the rest had to depend upon private charity; and here the resident Odd Fellows distinguished themselves. This laudable object caused the fraternity to meet informally, Aug. 20th, each member becoming a visiting committee. The society spent large sums on coffins alone, which cost from $60 upwards. The Masons joined them in the work, and in sharing hospital expenses at the fort. Placer Times, Sept. 29, Nov. 3, 7, Dec. 8, 1849, etc .; Winans' Stat., MS., 16. Claims for repayment were afterward presented by the city and others upon the state and U. S. government, but in vain. Sac. Transcript, Feb. 1, 1851; Oct. 14, 1850; U. S. Gov. Doc., Cong. 25, Sess. 1., Sen. Mis. Doc., 1, 4, i .; Cal. Jour. Ass., 1855, 451-5. Two other hospitals were erected, Direct. Sac., 1853-4, 14-16; and the city was induced to build one, but it was blown down before it was ready for occupation, and a less commodious cottage be- came its receptacle. Several minor private establishments existed. The patients cost the city in Jan. 1851 $5 each daily; $95,000 had been expended since May 1850. Sac. Transcript, Feb. 14, May 15, 1851; May 29, 1850; Up- ham's Notes, 301-2. Official reports on hospitals at Sac., in Cal. Jour. Ass., 1852, 330, 400, 857; Id., Sen., 531-45, 647-9; Hist. Sac. Co., 49, 87, with account of later county and R. R. hospitals. On Aug. 24th the Odd Fellows adopted by-laws and elected A. M. Winn, president. List of members in Sac. Direct., 1856, p. ix. In 1850 the Hebrews formed here a benevolent asso- ciation, and the Sons of Temperance a division, while the Masons, already in- formally active, organized the first lodge on Dec. 4, 1849. Two other lodges were formed in 1850, as well as a grand lodge, after which rapid progress was made. See the chapter on society, and for later progress of orders in Sac., Hist. Sac. Co., 158 et seq., including Templars, Druids, United Workmen, Knights of Pythias, German Benevolent Soc., and County Pioneers.

The cholera began its ravages on Oct. 20, and ended Nov. 12, 1850. During this time the mortality was 201 between Oct. 20th and 31st, and 247 between Nov. Ist and 11th, of which cholera and filth claimed nearly all. Sac. Tran- script, Nov. 14, 1850. The S. F. Herald, Nov. 1, 12, 1850, reports 25 deaths in 24 hours, and 20 in 48 hours. At Placerville there were 700 deaths between Aug. Ist and Nov. 12th. Sixty were buried at Sac. on Nov. Ist, many fol-

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SICKNESS AND FLOODS.

lowing. Culver's Direct., 79. One fifth of those who remained ir. Sac. died, says Winans, Stat., MS., 21-2; Pac. News, Nov. 1, 4, 1850; Sac. Direct , 1853, 35-7; Sac., Illust., 18-19; Crary's Stat., MS., 1-2; Cal. Courier, Oct. 23, etc., 1850; Fay's Facts, MS., 8. Only some 2,500 people remained in the city. For later health and climate reports, see Logan's Medic. Topog., 1859, 8; Sawyer's Mort. Tables, 6-7; Alta Cal., Nov. 12, 1852. On Jan. 1, 1851, there were 85 doctors here, and a Medico-Chirurgical academy met in May 1850. The two cemeteries were heavily occupied. Sutter gave in 1849 ten acres for one. Rules for, Placer Times, Dec. 8, 1849; May 8, 1850. Henshaw, Stat., MS., 6, buried the first body here. Stillman counted 800 burials bere before the cholera broke out. The Sac. Transcript, Nov. 29, 1850, states that out of 1,966 graves more than 850 dated since the preceding rainy season. For later cemeteries, see Hist. Sac. Co., 208.

This, however, was but one among the series of ordeals through which the city had to pass. The first was the flood of the winter 1849-50, which had early premonitions in rains soaking the frail tent buildings and making the country roads so bad as to stop freight teams in many directions, and forcing miners to seek the city for food and medicine. The rainy season began Nov. 2d, and continued, with intermissions, until the middle of Dec., when a storm wrecked several houses. It ended on March 22, 1850, with a fall of over 35 inches. Burnett's Rec., MS., ii. 202-3; Placer Times, Dec. 15, 22, 1849; Sac. Union, Jan. 1, 1875. Floods had occurred in 1846-7, and Indian traditions referred to 1825-6 and 1805 as severe seasons. By Christmas of 1849, water covered the lower parts of the city, and ferries were provided for several streets. On Jan. Ist, the rains stopped and the water receded somewhat; but on Jan. 8th it began to storm, and on the night of the 9th, four fifths of the city lay under water. The second story of the City hotel was entered from boats, Mellvaine's Sketches, MS., 7, and a steamer passed up the streets. Delano's Life, 291. Boats rented at $30 per hour. The city hospital was abandoned by the attendants, who left the rescue of the sick to citizens. Sac. Direct., 1853, 20-1; Placer Times, Jan. 19, etc., 1850. The country presented a sheet of water for miles around, save here and there a knoll or ridge, and the dottings of trees and houses. Hundreds of animals were drowned, to subsequently taint the air; some lives were lost, and an enormous amount of property was destroyed. The average rise of water within the city was 4 feet. Winans' Stat., MS., 9-14; Alta Cal., and Cal. Courier, Jan. 14, 1850; Pac. News, Jan. 5-20th. Gold flakes appeared after the water receded. Con- nor's Stat., MS., 5; Richardson's Exper., MS., 23-6. By Feb. 2d, $200,000 were promised for a levee, citizens and local authorities cooperating. Placer Times, Feb. 2, etc., 1850. In March and April, damming efforts saved the city from another overflow. Sac. Transcript, Apr. 26, 1850. On Apr. 30th, people voted to appropriate $250,000 for the work. Pac. News, May 3, 1850. It began Sept. 10th, and progressed, despite the declining enthusiasm and lack of funds, under the management of J. R. Hardenbergh. Yet it proved useless against later floods, and vaster labors were required. The levee was 9 miles in length, beginning at the highlands near Brighton and running to the mouth of the American River, at a height of 3 feet. Thence along the Sacramento, it was raised to 6 feet, and even 20 feet near Sutterville. Over

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History of California, Volume VI, Part 50

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe Publication date: 1885-1890 Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers Number of Pages: 816

Author: Bancroft, Hubert Howe
Publication date: 1885-1890
Publisher: San Francisco, Calif. : The History Company, publishers
Number of Pages: 816