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157
SOUTHERN ROUTES.
Rocky Mountain South Pass and Humboldt River, known as the northern, received by far the largest proportion of travel; the next in importance, the southern, led from Independence by the caravan trail to Santa Fé, thence to deviate in different directions: by the old Spanish trail round the north banks of the Colorado, crossing Rio Vírgenes to Mojave River and desert, and through Cajon Pass to Los Angeles; by General Kearny's line of march through Arizona, along the Gila; by that of Colonel Cooke down the Rio Grande and westward across the Sonora table-land to Yuma. Others passed through Texas, Coahuila, and Chihuahua into Arizona, while not a few went by sea to Tampico and Vera Cruz, and thence across the con- tinent to Mazatlan or other Mexican seaport to seek a steamer or sailing vessel, or even through Nicaragua, which soon sprang into prominence as a rival point of transit to the Isthmus.20 Snow at least proving no
lished at Sacramento, in a volume of 112 pp., under the title of Penknife Sketches; or Chips of the Old Block; a series of original illustrated letters, writ- ten by one of California's pioneer miners, and dedicated to that class of her cit- izens by the author. Sac., 1853. A second edition, sixteenth thousand, was published in 1834, price one dollar. Like the cuts designed by Charles Nahl, which ornament this book. the humor of the author is of a rough and ready nature, but it is genial and withal graphic. The Sketches are the overflowing of a merry heart, which no hard times could depress, and through all their burlesque it is evident that the writer had a discerning and appreciative eye for the many strange phases which his new life presented. More famous humorists have arisen in California since the time of Old Block, his chosen nom de plume; but as the first of the tribe, so he was the most faithful in depicting life in the flush times. His California Sketch-Book is similar in na- ture to the Penknife Sketches. Besides his purely humorous pieces, Delano wrote a number of tales which appeared in the Hesperian and Hutchings' magazines, as well as some plays, which it is said were put upon the stage. See the Grass Valley Foothill Tidings, Nov. 21, 1874. In 1868 he published at S. F. The Central Pacific, or '49 and '63, by Old Block, a pamplilet of 24 pp., comparing the modes of traversing the continent at the two dates men- tioned.
20 The new Mexican routes have received full attention in the preceding volumes of this series, Hist. Cal., in connection with Hispano-Mexican inter- course between New Mexico and Cal., with trapper roamings and the march overland of U. S. troops in 1846-7. Taylor, Eldorado, 131, speaks of Yuma attacks on Arizona passengers. See also records and references in the Alta C'al., June 25, 1850, and other journals and dates, as in a preceding note; also Hayes' Life, MS., 69 et seq .; Id., in Misc. Hist. Pap., doc. 27, p. 35-6, 45, et seq .; Hayes' Emig. Notes, MS., 415, with list of his party; Id., Diary, MS., 56; Soule's Stat., MS., I et seq. ; Sayward's Stat., MS., 2-5; Perry's Travels, 14-69, and Woods' Sixteen Months, 3 et seq., recording troubles and exactions of Mexican trips via Mazatlan and San Blas. So in Overland, xv. 241-8, on
158
THE JOURNEY OVERLAND
material obstruction along the more southerly routes, a fair proportion of emigrants from the United States had availed themselves of the outlet for an earlier start,21 and some 8,000 entered California from this quarter, including many Hispano-Americans, the lat- ter pouring in, moreover, throughout the winter months by way of Sonora and Chihuahua.
The number of gold-seekers who reached California from all sources during the year 1849 can be esti- mated only approximately. The most generally ac- cepted statement, by a committee of the California constitutional convention, places the population at the close of 1849 at 106,000, which, as compared with the census figure, six months later, of about 112,000, exclusive of Indians,22 appears excessive. But the census was taken under circumstances not favorable to accuracy, and the preceding estimate may be re- garded as equally near the truth, although some of the details are questionable.23
the San Blas route. The steamer California took on board at Acapulco, in July 1849, a party of destitute Americans, assisted by the passengers. Santa Cruz Times, Feb. 26, 1870. Ronde met five unarmed Frenchmen hauling a hand wagon through Chihuahua. Charton, Tour du Monde, iv. 160; Southern Quart. Rev., xv. 224 et seq. In Sherwood's Guide, 57-8, is mentioned a fantastic balloon route by the 'patent aerial steam float' of R. Porter, to carry passen- gers at $100, including board and a precautionary return ticket; the trip to be made in four or five days!
21 The fear of Mexican hostility, the comparatively inferior knowledge of this route, and its apparent roundabout turn made it less popular, at least north of the southern states.
22 The total is 92,597 for all except three counties-Santa Clara, S. F., and Contra Costa, the returns for which were lost. U. S. Seventh Census, 966 et seq. Comparison with the state census of 1852 permits an estimate for these three of not over 19,500, whereof 16,500 were for S. F. town and county. The Annals of S. F., 244, assumes 20,000 or even 25,000; others vary between 7,000 and 20,000 for S. F. city at the close of 1849, and as a large number of miners and others were then wintering there, the population must have fallen greatly by the time of taking the census. In July and Aug. 1849 the city had only 5,000 or 6,000. The influx by sea during the first six months of 1850 is reported by the S. F. custom-house at 24,288, whereof 16,472 were Americans. U. S. Gov. Doc., 31st cong. Ist sess., H. Ex. Doc. 16, iv. 44-5. By deducting this figure and balancing departures with the influx from Mexico the total at the end of 1849 would be nearly 90,000.
23 For instance, the population at the end of 1848 is placed by the com- mittee at 26,000, of whom 13,000 were Californians, 8,000 Americans, and 5,000 foreigners. I estimate from the archives the native Californian ele- ment at little over 7,500 at the same period; 8,000 Americans is an admis-
159
POPULATION.
I prefer, therefore, to place the number of white in- habitants at the close of 1849 at not over 100,000, accepting the estimated influx by sea of 39,000, of which about 23,000 were Americans, and 42,000 over- land, of which 9,000 were from Mexico, 8,000 coming through New Mexico, and 25,000 by way of the South Pass and Humboldt River. Of this number a few thousand, especially Mexicans, returned the same year, leaving a population that approached 95,000.24
sible figure, including the Oregon influx, but 5,000 foreigners is somewhat excessive, as may be judged from my notes in preceding chapters on Mexican and other immigration. Indians are evidently excluded in all estimates. The other figures for the influx during 1849 appear near enough. They may be consulted as original or quoted estimates. among other works, in Mayer's Mex. Aztec, ii. 393; Stillman's Golden Fleece, 32; Hittell's Hist. S. F., 139-40. 24 About half-way between the federal estimates and those of the convention. The tendency of the latter was naturally to give the highest reasonable figures, and the wonder is that it did not swell them with Indian totals. Such ex- citing episodes as the gold rush are moreover apt to produce exaggeration everywhere. Thus a widely accepted calculation, as reproduced in C'al. Past and Present, 146-7, reaches 200,000, based on Larkin's report of 46,000 ar- rived by July 1849, and on calculations from Laramie of 56,000 passing there. 'A still larger number' came by sea, say 100,000, 'all Americans,' so that nearly 200,000 arrived, and in 1850 there would be more than 500,000 new arrivals from the U. S .! Even the Report, 15, of the govt agent, T. B. King, assumes loosely the arrival in 1849 of 80,000 Americans and 20,000 foreigners. U. S. Gov. Doc., 31st cong. Ist sess., H. Ex. Doc. 59, 7. And Hittell, Hist. S. F., 139-40, 155-6, so excessively cautious in some respects, not allowing over 8,000 inhabitants to S. F. in Nov. 1849, assigns 30,000 in June 1850 to three counties lacking in the census, of which about 25,000 must be meant for S. 'F., and so reaches a total of 122,000, while accepting the 100,000 estimate for 1819. The investigations of J. Coolidge of the Merchants' Exchange in- dicated arrivals at S. F. from March 31 to Dec. 31, 1849, of 30,675, excluding deserters; 12,237 coming from U. S. ports via Cape Horn, 6,000 via Panamá, 2,600 via San Blas and Mazatlan, the rest from other quarters. Figures in Niles' Reg., lxxxv. 113, 127, 288, give 3,547 passengers for Chagres by April 1849; overland influx, adds Sac. Record, Mar. 28, 1874, 'probably exceeded that by sea twofold.' In a letter to the St Louis Rep. of June 10, 1849, from Fort Kearny, it was said that 5,095 wagons had passed; about 1,000 more left behind, and many turning back daily. There are 5,000 or 6,050 wagons on the way. Alta Cal., Aug. 2, 1849. See also Placer Times, May 26, Oct. 13, 1849, etc. Kirkpatrick, Journal, MS., 14-16, states, on the other hand, that only 1,500 teams were supposed to be on the road between Platte ferry and Cal. during the latter half of June. The Santa Fe and South Pass arrivals embrace some Hispano-Americans and Oregonians. For further speculations on numbers I refer to Williams' Rec. Early Days, MS., 10; Barstow's Stat., MS., 13; Abbey's Trip, 5, 26, 56; S. F. Directory, 1852-3, 10-11, 15; Pioneer Arch., 182-3; Larkin's Doc., MS., vi. 203; Taylor's Eldorado, ii. cap. iv .; Simonin, Grand Ouest, 290; Janssens, Vida y Av., MS., 209-10; Annals S. F. 133, 244, 356, 434; Polynesian, vi. 74, 86-7; Sac. Directory, 1871, 36; Niles' Reg., lxxv. 113, 127, 288, 320, 348, 383; Home Miss., xxii. 44; S. F. Pac. News, Dec. 22, 27, 1849; Apr. 30; May 2, 8, 21, 24, 1850; Alta Cal., July 2, Dec. 15, 1849; May 24, 1850; S. F. Herald, Nov. 15, 1850: Jan. 21, 1854; Boston Traveler, March 1850; St Louis Anzeiger, Apr. 1850; S. F. Bulletin,
160
THE JOURNEY OVERLAND.
The advance parties of the Rocky Mountain migra- tion began to arrive in the Sacramento Valley toward the end of July, after which a steady stream came pouring in. They were bewildered and unsettled for a while under the novelty of their surroundings, for the rough flimsy camps and upturned, débris-strewn river banks, as if convulsed by nature, accorded little with the pictured paradise; but kind greeting and aid came from all sides to light up their haggard faces, and before the prospect of unfolding riches all past toil and danger faded like a gloomy dream. Even the cattle, broken in spirit, felt the reviving influence of the goal attained.25 To many the visions of wealth which began anew to haunt their fancy proved only a reflection of the lately mocking mirages of the desert, till sober thought and strength came to reveal other fields of labor, whence they might wrest more surely though slowly the fortune withheld by fickle chance. And here the overland immigrants as a mass had the advantage, coming as they did from the small towns, the villages, and the farms of the interior, or from the young settlements on the western frontier. Accus- tomed to a rugged and simple life, they craved less for excitement; and honest, industrious, thrifty, and self- reliant, they could readily fall back upon familiar toil and find a potent ally in the soil. A large propor- tion, indeed, had come to cast their lot in a western home. The emigrants by sea, on the other hand, speaking broadly and with all due regard to exceptions, were pioneers not so natural and befitting to an en-
Apr. 6, 1868. Arrivals in 1850 will be considered later in connection with population.
23 Among the first comers was 'Jas S. Thomas from Platte City.' Burnett's Rec., MS., ii. 127. 'The first party of packers reached Sac. about July 18th; four wagons were there in Pleasant Valley, 100 miles above.' Alta Cal., Aug. 2, 1849. The hungry and sick received every care, despite the absorbing occupation of all and the high cost of food. Sutter aided hundreds. Used to open-air camping, many could not endure sleeping in a house for a long time. McCall, Great Cal. Trail, 1-85, left St Joseph May 5th; reached Ft Kearny May 29th; Ft Laramie June 18th; Green River July 10th; Hum- boldt River Ang. 10th; Truckee River Aug. 29th; and coming down by Johnson's Ranch, arrived at Sutter's Sept. 7th.
16I
AUTHORITIES.
tirely new country. They embraced more of the abnormal and ephemeral, and a great deal of the criminal and vicious, in early California life. They might build cities and organize society, but there were those among them who made the cities hot- beds of vice and corruption, and converted the social fabric into a body nondescript, at the sight of which the rest of the world stood wrapped in apprehension. 26
26 Additional authorities: U. S. Govt Docs, 30 Cong. I Sess., H. Ex. Doc. 1, p. 32; Id., 30 Cong. 2 Sess., U. S. Acts and Resol. 1-155; ld., 31 Cong. 1 Sess., H. Ex. Doc. 5, pt. i., 224, 429-33;, H. Ex. Doc. 17, passim; H. Ex. Doc. 52, xiii. 94-154; H. Ex. Doc. 59, 7, 26; Id., 31 Cong. 2 Sess., H. Ex. Doc. 1, p. 77, 208; Sen. Doc. 19, iii. 12-15; Id., 32 Cong. 1 Sess., Sen. Doc. 50, passim; Sen. Doc. '124, pp. 1-222; Mess. and Docs, 1847-8, ii. 955-6; Wilkes' Exp., v. 181; Velasco, Notic. Son., 289, 320-33; Simonin, Grand Ouest, 290 et seq .; Sherman's Mem., i. passim; Larkin's Docs, iii. 215; vi. 74, 111, 116, 128, 130, 132, 144, 173, 178, 180, 185, 198, 203, 219; vii. 24, 94; Manrow's Vig. Committee, MS., 1-67; Hayes' Life, MS., 69-70; Id., Diary, passim; Id., Scraps Ariz., v. 29; Id., Scraps L. Ang., i. 205; Id., Miscel. Ilist. Papers, doc. 27; Id., Coll. Mining Cal., i. 1; Id., Coll. Mining, v. 3-12. 85; Id., Cal. Notes, i. 101; iii. 153; v. 16, 20, 85; Williams' Stat., MS., 1-3, 6-12; Yreka Journal, Feb. 18, 1874; Janssen's Vida y Arent., 209-10; Künzel, Oler- californien; Bigler's Diary of a Mormon, 56-79, 91; Buffum's Six Months, 68-9, 111-22, 156; Burnett's Recoll., MS., passim; Carson's Early Recoll .; Gillespie's Vig. Com., MS., 3-4; Hitchcock's Stat., MS., 1-7; Annals S. F., passim; Beadle's West. Wilds, 38-40; Blucome's Vig. Com., MS., 1-2; Connor's Early Cal., MS., 1-5; Cerruti's Ramblings, 66-7, 94 et seq .; Mollien's Travels C'ol., 409-13; Robinson's Cal. Gold Region, passim; Stillman's Golden Fleece, 19-32, 327-52; Stuart's Trip to Cal., 2-3; Tyson's Geol. of Cal., 84; Bolton vs U. S., app. 88-95; Kirkpatrick's Journal, MS., 3-16; Jenkins' U. S. E.c. Exped., 431-2; The Friend, Honolulu, vii. 21; viii. 28; Kanesville, Ia, Front Guard, July 25, 1849; Petaluma Argus, Apr. 4, 1873; Pan. Star, Feb. 24, 1849; Ryck.nan's Stit., MS., 11, 20; Estrella de Occid., Nov. 16, 1860; Retes, Por- tentosas Riq. Min .; Sic. Direct., 1871, 36; Abbey's Trip across Plains, 5, 26, 56; Alger's Young Adrent., 185-293; Brooks' Four Months, passim; Brackett's U. S. Cúv., 125-7; S. F. Argonaut, passim; Revere's Tour of Duty, 254-6; Id., Keel and Siddle, 151-4; S. F. Whig and Adrert., June 11, 1853; Treasury of Trar., 92-4; Truckee Tribune, Jan. 8, 1870; Rerue des deux Mondes, Feb. 1, 1849; Browne's Min. Res., 14-15; Arch. Mont. Co., xiv. 18; Arch. Sta Cruz Co., 107; Fay's Hist. Facts, MS .; Dwinelle's Add., 104-12; Doc. Hist. Cal., i. 505; Digger's Hand Book, 43-53; Henshaw's Stat., MS .; Helper's Land of Gold, 101; Borthwick's Stat., MS., 2-5; Brown's Early Days of Cal., MIS., 1-7; Boyn- ton's Stat., MS., 1; Codman's The Round Trip, 28; Tiffany's Pocket Ecch. Guide, 16; Gilroy Adrocate, Apr. 24, 1875; Folsom Telegraph, Sept. 17, 1871; Ferry, Cul., 105-6, 306-28; Colusa Sun, March 8, 1873; Bryant's What I Saw in Cal., i. 142-3; Ashley's Docs Hist. Cal., 223, 271-396; Antioch Ledger, Dec. 24, 1870; July 1, 1876; Tuthill's Cal., 234; Thornton's Oregon and Cal., 270; Gold Hill Daily News, Apr. 16, 1872; Coke's Ride, 156, 166; Findla's Stat., MS., passim; Dowell's Letters, MS., 1-34; Duncan's Southern Oregon, MS., 1-2; Quigley's Irish Race: Grass Valley Repub., March 8, 1872; Cronise's Nat. Wealth, 56-7; Roach's Stat., MS., 1-2; Del Mar's Hist. Precious Met., 258 et seq .; Dameron's Antobioy., MS., 19; Taylor's Betw. Gates, 25-30, 61-7, 131; Id., El Dorado, i. 26-9, 48; ii. 36, 222-3; Van Allen, in Miscel. Stat., 31; l'an-
HIST. CAL., VOL. VI. 11
162
THE JOURNEY OVERLAND.
derbilt, in Miscel. Stat., 1, 32-3; Wheaton's Stat., MS., 2-3; Charton, Tour du Monde, iv. 160; Barnes' Or. and Cal., MIS., 19, 26; Weik, Cal. wie es ist, 29- 51; Du Hailly, in Rev. des deux Mondes, Feb. 15, 1849; Barrow's Twelve Nights, 165-268; Vallejo Recorder, March 14, 1868; Oct. 12, 1869; Woods' Sixteen Months, passim; Dunbar's Romunce, 48, 55-89, 102-6; Ware's Emig. Guide, 1-55; Alumeda Co. Hist. Atlas, 14; Fulle, Doc., 58; C'al. Past and Present, 77, 146-7; Castroville Argus, June 12, 19, 1875; Robinson's Stat., MIS., 23-4; Willey's Pers. Mem., MS., 25, 58-75, 111-18; Ross' Stat., MS., 1-12; Ryan's Pers. Ade., ii. 273-5; Id., Judges und Crim., 72-9; Pion. May., iv. 380; Olympia Transcript, June 17, 1876; Dept. St. P. (Ang.), viii. 6, 16; Dean's Stat., MS., 1-2; Kane, in Miscel. Stat., 7-11; Humboldt Times, March 7, 1874; Schlagentweit, Cal., 216; Winans' Stat., MS., 1-5, 23-4; Lake Co. Bee, March 8, 18/3; Napa Rey., Aug. 1, 1874; MrClellan's Golden State, 119- 46; Barry's Up and Down, 93-7; Schmiedell's Stat., MS., 6; Walton's Facts from Golil Regions, 8, 19-32; Crosby's Events in Cal., MS., 13-26; Santa Cruz Times, Feb. 19, 26, 1870; S. F. Times, July 20, 1867; Shearer's Journal, MS., 1-3, 11; Warren's Dust and Foam, 12-14, 133, 153-6; West Coast Signal, Apr. 15, 1874; Nev. Co. Hist., 41, 45; Merrill's Stat., MS., 1-3; Alameda Co. Gaz., March 8, 1873; March 14, 1874; Jau. 9, May 29, 1875; Barstow's Stat., MIS., 1-4, 14; St Louis Union, May 25, 1849; Cassin's A Few Facts, 1-5, 17-18; Doolittle's Stat., 1-22; Morgan's Trip across the Plains, 1-21; Carver's Travels, 122; C'al. Pioneers, Docs, passim; Wilmington Enterprise, Jan. 21, 1875; Say- ward's Pers. Rem., MS., 2; San Jose Argus, Oct. 16, 1875; Stockton Indep., Nov. 1, 1873; Apr. 4, 1874; Jan. 30, Oct. 19, 1875; Low's Stat., MS., 1-5; Massett's Exper. of a '49er, 1-10; Sand. Islands News, ii. 134, 147, 158, 186; Hawley's Observ., MS., 1-3; Sta Cruz Sentinel, July, 15, 1875; Vandyke's Stat., MS., 1-2, etc .; Soule's Stat., MS., 1-2; Vallejo D. Indep., June 1-8, 1872; Staples' Stat., MS .; Neall's Fig. Com., MS., 3, 22-4; Coleman's Vig. Com., MS., 175-83; Matthewson's Stat .; MIS., 1; Swan's Trip, 1-3, 13; Lord's B. Col. Naturalist, 271; Cent. Amer. Miscel. Docs, 44; Delano's Life on the Plains, passim; Home Miss., xxii. 44, 185-6; Sonora Book, iv. 174, in Pinart, Coll .; Sherwood's Pocket Guide to Cal., 27, 47-64; Sac. Union, Jan. 23, 26, Feb. 13, Dec. 30, 1856, etc .; Solano Repub., Sept. 29, 1870; S. F. Ev'y Post, July 14, 1877; Nev. D. Guz., June 9, 1866; Jan. 20, 22, 1868; Leavitt's Scrap Book; Little's Stat., MS., 1-4; Cerruti's Ramblings, 46; Holinski, La Cal., 144; Vallejo Chron., July 25, Oct. 10, 1874; San Jose Mercury, Apr. 28, 1876; Cronise's Nat. Wealth, 57; Id., Stat., MS., 1; Sutton's Early Exper., MS., 1; South. Quart. Rer., xv. 224; Melbourne Mg Herald, Feb. 6, 7, 10, 1849; Stockton D. Herald, May 18, 1871; Nevada City und Grass Valley Dir., 1856, 43; L. Any. Repub., Feb. 28, March 14, May 18, 1878; Cul., Adv. Capt. Wife, 18, 20, 41-2; Sac. Transcript, Oct. 15, 1850; Feb. 1, 1851; Overland Monthly, ix. 12-13; xii. 343; xv. 241-8; S. F. Cal. Star, Oct. 1847 to June 1848, passim; S. F. Ev'g Post, Aug. 8, 1883; Mayer's Mex. Azt., ii. 393; Slater's Mormon- ism, 5-12, 87; Pfeiffer's Sec. Journ., 290; Soc. Mex. Geog., xi. 127-34; San Diego Union, July 22, 1874; S. F. Evening Picayune, Aug. 30, Sept. 4, 12, Oct. 5, Nov. 27, Dec. 18, 1850; Scherzer's Narr., iii. 425-30; Oakland Alum. Co. Guz., May 29, 1875; Oakland Transcript, Aug. 7, 1872; March 1, 1873; June 16, 1876; S. F. Pac. News, Nov. 1849 to Dec. 1850, passim; S. F. Bulle- tin, Apr. 9, May 12, 31, July 29, Dec. 2, 1858; Jan. 31, Feb. 12, Apr. 29, 30, May 25, June 2, 3, Aug. 15, Sept. 18, 30, Oct. 29, 1859; March 1, 29, 1860; Aug. 21, 1862, etc .; Pion. Arch., passim; Pearson's Recoll., MS., 1-2; Preble's Hist. Steam Navig., 321-4; S. F. Duuly Herald, June 1850 to Feb. IS5I, pas- sim; Soluno Co. Hist., 65-6, 154, 368-9, 451; San José Pioneer, Jan. 27, Feb. 24, Aug. 4, Dec. 8, 29, 1877; Oct. 9, 1880; Pio Pico, Times, MS., 141-6; Hunt's Merch. May., xviii. 467-76; xx. 55-64; xxi. 585-6; xxxii. 354-5; Par- son's Life of Marshall, passim; Californian, 1847-8, passim; Mccollum's Cal. as I Saw It, 17, 25-6; Perry's Travels, 14-69; First Steamship Pioneers, pas- sim; Polynesian, v. and vi., passim; vii. 18, 62, 131; Shuck's Scrup Book, 83-4; Moore's Pion. Erper., MS., 1; Id., Recoll. of Early Days, MS., 2; Shasta Courier, Nov. 18, 1865; March 16, 1867; Placer Times, Apr. 28, May 19, 26,
163
AUTHORITIES.
June 2, Aug. 11, Sept. 15, Oct. 13, Dec. 1, 1849; May 22, 1850; S. F. Direc- tory, 1852 (Parker), 10; Id., 1852-3, 10-14; Sac. Bee, Dec. 7, 1869; Nov. 21, 1871; March 28, Aug. 27, 1874; July 7, 1875; Nov. 26, 1878; S. F. C'al. Courier, 1850-1, passim; S. F. Alta Cal., 1849-75, passim; Hittell's Cal., 124-5; Id., Mining, 17; Id., S. F., 125-56, etc .; Id., Hand Book, 12-18; El Sonorense, Feb. 21, March 21, 30, Apr. 18, 26, May 11, 1849; Vallejo, Col. Doc. Hist. Cal., xii. 344; xxxv. 47, 148, 192; xxxvi. 287; Niles' Rey., Ixxiv. 257, 336-7; lxxv. 69-70, 113, 127, 288, 320, 348, 383.
CHAPTER X.
SAN FRANCISCO.
1848-1850.
SITE AND SURROUNDINGS-RIVALS-EFFECT OF THE MINES-SHIPPING-IN- FLUX OF POPULATION-PHYSICAL AND COMMERCIAL ASPECTS-BUSINESS FIRMS -PUBLIC AND PRIVATE BUILDINGS -NATIONAL LOCALITIES- HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS-PRICES CURRENT-PROPERTY VALUES- AUCTION SALES-WHARVES AND STREETS-EARLY ERRORS-HISTORIC FIRES-ENGINES AND COMPANIES-IMMIGRATION AND SPECULATION- POLITICS- THE HOUNDS -- CITY GOVERNMENT.
MANY cities owe their origin to accident; some to design. In the latter category may be placed most of those that sprang up upon this western earth's end, · and notably San Francisco. When the Englishman Richardson moved over from Sauzalito to Yerba Buena Cove in the summer of 1835, and cleared a place in the chaparral for his trading-tent; when the American Jacob P. Leese came up from Los An- geles, and in connection with his friends of Monterey, William Hinckley and Nathan Spear, erected a sub- stantial frame building and established a commercial house there in the summer of 1836-it would appear that these representatives of the two foremost nations of the world, after mature deliberation, had set out to lay the foundation of a west-coast metropolis. The opening of the Hudson's Bay Company branch estab- lishment in 1841 added importance to the hamlet. Although founded on the soil and under the colors of Anáhuac, it never was a Mexican settlement, for the United States element ever predominated, until the
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165
SITE SELECTED.
spirit of '76 took formal possession under symbol of the American flag, wafted hither over subdued domains.
The inducements for selecting the site lay in its proximity to the outlet of the leading harbor1 upon the coast, a harbor to which so many huge rivers and rich valleys were tributary, and to which so many land routes must necessarily converge. A position so commanding led to the establishment here of a pre- sidio immediately after the occupation of the country, under whose wings sprang up a flourishing mission establishment. The harbor commended itself early to passing vessels, and although finding Sauzalito on the northern shore the best station for water and wood, they were obliged to come under cognizance of the military authorities at the fort, and to seek the more substantial supplies at the mission, both establish- ments presenting, moreover, to trading vessels, in their not inconsiderable population, and as the abutting points for the settlements southward, an all-important attraction. These primary advantages outweighed greatly such drawbacks as poor landing-places, lack of water sources and farming land in the vicinity, and the growing inconvenience of communication with the main settlements now rising in the interior. The op- portune strategy of Alcalde Bartlett in setting aside the name of Yerba Buena, which threatened to over- shadow its prospects, and restoring that of Saint Fran- cis, proved of value in checking the aspirations of Francisca, later called Benicia. And our seraphic father of Assisi remembered the honor, by directing to its shore the vast fleet of vessels which in 1849 began to empty here their myriads of passengers and cargoes of merchandise. This turned the scale, and with such start, and the possession of capital and fame, the town distanced every rival, Benicia with all her superior natural advantages falling far behind.
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