History of Philadelphia, 1609-1884, Part 3

Author: Scharf, J. Thomas (John Thomas), 1843-1898. cn; Westcott, Thompson, 1820-1888, joint author
Publication date: 1884
Publisher: Philadelphia, Pa. : L. H. Everts & Co.
Number of Pages: 992

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This simplicity of apparel was the rule, the costly style previously described the exception. Very or- dinary material was still used among our citizens, and articles of clothing were considered so valuable as to

be in many instances special objects of bequest. Henry Furnis, who died in 1701, bequeathed to one of his daughters his leather coat, leather waistcoat, his black hat and cap. To another daughter be left his blue waistcoat, leather breeches, and muslin neck-cloth ; and to another daughter a new drugget coat.

Gunner Swanson, the Swede, who died in 1702, be- queathed "deer-skins dressed" and "not dressed." John Budd in 1704 devised his " beaver hat" to his brother. Peter Baynton in 1710 made special de- vises of a remnant of plush, two and a half yards, plate buttons suitable for breeches, his best hat, " a frieze coat without buttons on or to be put on it," one large waistcoat without buttons, and woolen hose. A runaway servant is advertised as having worn at the time of his departure a green silk handkerchief about his neck, a broad-brimmed hat, a brown-colored coat, mixed kersey jacket with horn buttons, leather breeches, and worsted stockings.

This disregard for the behests of fashion could not last, however. The Friends were alarmed. Although in the early days they had not been averse to bright colors, they advocated a still greater simplicity in ap- parel and customs when they saw the fashionable follies of Europe penetrating into the quiet colouy. It was too late, however, to stem the current. They had lost much of their influence ; new social elements had given a character to the community, and all they could do was to endeavor to protect the young people of their sect from the contamination of these worldly ways, so much at variance with their own ideas and principles.

In 1726 the following testimony was borne against female vanities by women who were not vain :

" From Woman Ffriends at the Yearly Meeting held at Burlington the 21st of the Seventh month, 1726, to Woman Ffriends at the several Quarterly and Monthly Meetings belonging to the same, "Greeting :

" Dear and well-beloved Sisters : A weighty concern coming upon many ffaithful ffriends at this meeting in relation to divers undue liberties that are too frequently taken by some that walk among us aud are ac- counted of us, we are willing, in the pure love of Truth which hath mercifully visited our souls, tønderly to caution and advise our ffriends against those things which we think inconsistent with our ancient Christian testimony of plaioness in apparel, &c., some of which we think proper to particularize.

" As first, that immodest fashion of hooped petticoats, or the imita- tion of them, either by something put into their petticoats to make them set full, or wearing more than ie necessary, or any other imitation whatsoever, which we take to be but a branch sprioging from the same corrupt root of pride. And also that none of our ffriends accustom them- selves to wear the gowns with superfluous folds behind, but plain and decent; nor go without aprons; nor to wear superfluous gathere or plaits in their caps or pinners; nor to wear their heads dressed high behind; neither to cut or løy their hair on their forehead or temples.

" And that ffriends be careful to avoid wearing striped shoes, or red or white heeled shoes or clogs; or shoes trimmed with gaudy colors.

" Likewise that all ffriends be careful to avoid all superfluity of ffur- niture in their houses, and as much as may be to refrain using gaudy flowers or striped calicoes and stuffs.

"And also that no ffriends use that irreverent practice of taking enuff, or handing snuff-boxes one to the other in meetings.

" Also that ffriends avoid the unnecessary use of fans in meetings, lest it divert the mind from the more inward and spiritual exercise which all ought to be concerned in.

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" And also that ffriends do not accustom themselves to go with bare breasta or bare necks.

" There is likewise a tender concern npon our minds to recommend boto all ffriends the constant use of the plain language, &c., being a branch of our ancient Christian testimony, for which many of our worthy Elders underwent deep sufferings in their day, as they likewise did hecause they could not give the common salutations by bowing aod cringing of the body, which we earnestly desire ffriends may be careful to avoid.

" And we further tenderly advise and exhort that all ffriends be care- ful to maintain love and unity, and to watch against whisperings and evil surmisings one against another; and to keep in humility, that nothing be done through strife or vain glory ; and that those who are concerned to take an oversight over the flock, do it not as lords over God'a heritage, but as servaots to the churches.

" Dear Siaters, these things we solemnly recommend to your careful notice, in a degree of that divine love which hath graciously manifested itself for the redemption of a remnant from the vain conversation, cns- tom and ffashions that are in the world, that we might be unto the Lord a choaen generation, a royal priesthood, an holy nation, a peculiar people, showing forth the praises of Him who hath called us out of darkneas into his marvelous light. That we may all walk as children of the light and of the day is the earnest desire of our souls.

"We conclude with the salutation of unfeigned love, your ffriends and siaters.

"Signed on behalf and by order of the said meeting, by "HANNAH HILL."

The Quakers had partially laid aside the wig, but the day had not come when men were to see the absurdity of wearing other men's hair instead of their own. Light hair for periwigs is advertised by Oliver Galtry, periwig-maker, in High Street, near the market, in 1722; and George Sheed, periwig-maker, in Front Street, advertises in 1726 that he buys all sorts of light and gray hair. A murderer who escaped from New York is advertised as having worn a bob- wig, a sad-colored stuff coat trimmed with silver, and a flowered silk waistcoat and breeches.

The wigs held their own until after the return of Braddock's broken army. The hair was then allowed to grow, and was either plaited or clubbed behind, or it was worn in a black silk bag, adorned with a large black rose. From this it dwindled down to the queer little " pigtail," which, not many years past, could be seen bobbing up and down on the high coat-collar of some old gentlemen of the last generation.

Stiff high-back chairs and settees, a stiff style of dress,-for the hooped petticoat and wired coat-skirt carry with them no idea of graceful ease,-must have given the manners a tendency to stiffness. The stately minuet was, very appropriately, the fashionable dance of the day, at least among what was called "the politer classes ;" the "common people," that is, the great social body not comprised in that upper-tendom, did not follow the fashions so closely, and enjoyed merrier dances, the favorite among which was " hip- sesaw."

Notwithstanding those distinctions of classes which sound oddly to our republican ears when we forget that the Philadelphia of which we speak was not a republican city, every tradition attests the fact that the most cordial relations existed between those classes. William Fishbourne, in his manuscript nar- rative, says, "For many years there subsisted a good concord and benevolent disposition among the

people of all denominations, each delighting to be reciprocally helpful and kind in acts of friendship for one another." Mr. Watson, writing in 1842, says he has often heard aged persons say that decent citi- zens had a universal speaking acquaintance with each other, and everybody promptly recognized a stranger in the streets. The hospitality of the early settlers was proverbial, and Mr. Kalm, who was here in 1748, expressed his surprise " at the universal freedom with which travelers were everywhere accustomed to leap over the hedges and take the fruit from the orchards, even while the owners were looking on, without refusal."

It is evident that the social prejudices of Old Eng- land had been considerably softened by the necessities of colonial life. Mutual helpfulness was natural and unavoidable when none could feel perfectly indepen- dent of the others; besides, the great majority of the early settlers were Quakers, or, as their other name implies, friends, the simplicity of whose religion did not admit of differences of rank and birth, or, at least, with whom these differences could not affect social re- lations. Yet these prejudices did exist, although the hereditary gentlemen were not domineering as in England, nor were the tradesmen cringing and sub- missive. In a new country every one must needs contribute to the common prosperity ; labor is always honorable, and the honest laborer feels that he is as good as any other man. But while they possessed the dignity of manhood, the tradesmen of olden times were not ashamed of their calling; they did not try to ape the manners or copy the dress of their employers, or, as the Englishman would say, of their betters. They had no foolish pride; they formed a class of society, a useful class ; they were content with the knowledge of their own worth, and did not care what imaginary barriers separated them from other classes. They went about their daily work as carpen- ters, masons, blacksmiths, etc., clad in garments suited to their occupations,-strong buckskin breeches, check shirts, and flannel jackets, generally protected by the large leather apron from their breasts to below their knees. Their wives and children wore plain clothes; their homes were simple and comfortable, and saw as much mirth and genuine happiness as the homes of the wealthy. They were free from that bane of the modern poor man's home,-the desire for show, the craving for outward appearances of prosperity be- yond their reach. It is such men, the bone and sinew of the country, together with the hardy tillers of the soil, who have fought her battles, secured her liberty, and founded her prosperity.

Tradition does not mention the antagonism between labor and capital,-the cloud that darkens the horizon of the republic in our day. It is true that in that golden age capital was not selfish, labor was not covetous.

The tradesmen of Philadelphia, with a view to check any attempt to encroach npon their rights by

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those who claimed a superiority of rank, had formed a union under the name of "The Leather Apron Club." In 1728, Benjamin Franklin, then a young printer, twenty-two years of age, gave that name to an association which he and ten others formed for the purpose of mutual improvement. They attempted to establish a library of their own, and to this attempt, which partially failed as originally conceived, grew that most admirable of Philadelphia institutions, the library. The very interesting history of the Phila- delphia Library being given in another chapter of this work, we have merely mentioned it to note the fact that, with one or two exceptions, the founders of Franklin's Leather Apron Club were tradesmen, and that all rose to distinction, several occupying places of honor and trust in the service of their country.

There were few hired servants in those days; menial labor was done by black slaves and German and Irish redemptioners. Slavery was not repugnant to our forefathers' notions of justice; it was admitted even by the Quakers. But the slaves of Philadelphia were happy ; harsh treatment was not countenanced by public opinion. Servants were regarded as forming an integral part of the family, and proper attention paid to their comforts.

Peter Kalm, the Swedish traveler, already quoted, who came to Philadelphia in 1748, seems to have thoroughly investigated the question of servants. He says that there were two classes of white ser- vants : the first were quite free to serve by the year. They could even leave their masters before the expi- ration of the twelve months; but in that case they were in danger of losing their wages. A man-ser- vant, having some abilities, got between sixteen and twenty pounds in Pennsylvania currency. This was in Philadelphia ; the wages were not so good in the country. A maid-servant received eight or teu pounds a year. These servants had to buy their own clothes. The second class consisted of such persons as came annually from Germany, England, and other coun- tries for the purpose of settling in the colony. Some were flying from oppression, others from religious persecution, but most of them were too poor to pay the six or eight pounds sterling required for their passage. They agreed with the captain that they would suffer themselves to be sold for a few years on their arrival. Very old people made arrangements to sell their children, in order to secure their own passage. Some could pay part of the passage-money, and were sold only for a short time. Some of the Ger- mans, although having the means to pay their way, pre- ferred to suffer themselves to be sold with a view that during their servitude they might gain some knowl- edge of the language of the country and have time to decide what pursuits would be most advantageous. The average price of these servants was fourteen pounds for four years' servitude. The master was bound to feed and clothe his servant, and to present him with a new suit of clothes at the end of his term

of servitude. The English and Irish commonly sold themselves for four years, but the Germans frequently agreed with the captain to pay him a certain sum of money for a certain number of persons, and, on their arrival in America, they tried to get a man to pay their passage for them, giving him in return one or several of their children to serve for a certain num- ber of years. If the demand was brisk, they were thus able to make their bargain with the highest hidder.

The purchase of black slaves involved too great an outlay of capital to be as general as that of white servants, and they were not held in large number by any one master.

The amusements of the young people of Philadel- phia were, for many years, of the simplest and most innocent kind. Riding, swimming, and skating af- forded pleasant out-door sport. "Going to meeting," although it may not be classed as an amusement, was certainly a pious recreation for the young Quakers and Quakeresses. It interrupted the monotony and seclusion of the domestic circle. The immigration of more worldly persons, in sufficient numbers to counterbalance the influence of the Friends, intro- duced hitherto unheard-of gayeties among them.

Yearly Meeting, in 1716, advised Friends against " going to or being in any way concerned in plays, games, lotteries, music, and dancing." In 1719 ad- vice was given "that such be dealt with as run races, either on horseback or on foot, laying wagers, or use any gaming or needless and vain sports and pastimes, for our time passeth swiftly away, and our pleasure and delight ought to be in the law of the Lord."

In 1722 was advertised the exhibition of " the Czar of Muscovia's country-seat, with its gardens, walks, fountains, fish-ponds, and fish that swim." It was to be seen at the house of Oliver Galtery, the periwig- maker, in Market Street, near the court-house. In 1724 the first rope-dancer that astonished the young town held forth upon Society Hill, and made his an- nouncement as follows :

" By permission of his Excellency Sir William Keith, Bart., Governor of the province of Pennsylvania, this is to give notice to all gentlemen aod ladies and others, that there is newly arrived to this place the famous performance of roap-dancing, which is performed to the admiration of all beholders.

" lat. By a little boy of seven years old, who dances and capers upoo the strait roap, to the wonder of all spectators.

"2d. By a woman who dances a corant and jigg upon the roapo, which abe performs as well as any dancing-meater doee upon the ground.

"3d. She dances with haskets upon hor feet and iron fetters upon her lega.

" 4th. She walks upon the roap with a wheelbarrow before her.

"5th. You will see various performances on the slack roap.

" Gtlily. You are entertained with the comical humour of your old friend, Pickle Herring.

"The whole concluding with a woman turning round with a swift motion, with seven or eight swords' pointe at her eyes, mouth, and brest, for a quarter of an hour together, to the admiration of all that behold the performance.

" There will also be several other diverting performances on the etage, too large here to mention.

" The abovo performances to be seen at the new booth on Society Hill,

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to begin on Thursday next and last the term of twenty days, and no longer.

"The price ou the stage, 3s .; in the pit, 2x .; in gallery, 18. 6d.

"To begin exactly at 7 o'clock in the evening."

In 1726, Matthew Garrigues, at the sign of Prince Eugene, in Second Street, advertised for sale "a new billiard-table," certainly the first of which we have any account in the province.

Small shows now, from time to time, made their appearance. In 1727, " The Lion, King of Beasts," was advertised to be exhibited in Water Street. Ad- mission for each person, one shilling. In April, 1737, there was exhibited at the Indian King Tavern, on Market Street, a cat having one head, eight legs, two tails, and from the breast down two bodies. This monstrous production was considered a curiosity worthy of special attention. In 1739 there was ex- hibited at Clark's Tavern, sign of the Coach and Horses, Chestnut Street, between Fifth and Sixth, a mechanical contrivance of moving figures, represent- ing Joseph's Dream, Joseph in Egypt, etc. In 1744, something of the same kind, but more fanciful in the performances of the various figures shown, the whole moving by clock-work, was exhibited at the Crooked Billet Tavern, on King [Water] Street. In the same year there was exhibited at the Indian King, in Mar- ket Street, "a beautiful creature, but surprising fierce, called a leopard." In the same year the following advertisement appeared :

"To be seen at the house of John Saunders, huntsman, the upper part of Second Street, a strenge and surprising creature called & mouse [moose], abont the higness of a horse. It has a face like a monse, ears like an ass, neck aud hack like a camel, hind parte like a horse, tail like a rabbit, and feet like a heifer. It was lately brought to town, and came four hundred miles, and is so fine limbed that it can jump six feet high. Price to men, sixpence, and threepence to children."

In 1740 the camel was exhibited. In 1742 there was a magic-lantern exhibition; in 1745 a camera- obscura; in 1749, some curious shell-work and a philosophical machine.

But these shows were harmless amusements; a greater shock was given to Quaker propriety on the 31st of August, 1738, when the following advertise- ment appeared in the Pennsylvania Mercury :

" This is to give notice that Theobald Hackett, dancing-master (lately come from England and Ireland), has opened a DANCING-SCHOOL in this city, at the house wherein Mr. Brownell lately lived, in Second Street, where he will give dus attendance and tesch all sorts of fashionable English and French dances, after the newest and politest manner prac- ticed in London, Dublin, and Paris, and will give all young ladles, gen- tlemen, and children (that please to learn of him) the most graceful carriage in dancing, and genteel behavior In company, that can possibly bo given by any dancing-master whatever."

Whether as a consequence of a visit of this Terpsi- chorean professor to the city, or from the increase of persons who understood dancing, it cannot now be known, but it is certain that as early as 1740 a dan- cing assembly was formed in the city, and also an as- sociation for musical purposes. They had a room for the holding of parties and balls. This appears from the account of the conduct of Mr. Seward, the friend and companion of Whitefield, who attempted to close

that saloon during the preaching of the latter. In

- 1748 the members of the dancing assembly were as follows : Alexander Hamilton, Thomas Lawrence, Jr., John Wallace, Phineas Bond, Charles Willing, Joseph Shippen, Samuel McCall, Jr., George McCall, Edward Jones, Samuel McCall, Sr., Redmond Con- yngham, Joseph Sims, Thomas Lawrence, Sr., David McIlvaine, John Wilcocks, Charles Stedman, John Kid, William Bingham, Buckridge Sims, James Hamilton, Ro. Mackinet, William Allen, Archibald McCall, Joseph Turner, Thomas Hopkinson, Richard Peters, John Swift, John Kearsley, William Plumsted, Andrew Elliot, James Bord, Adam Thompson, Alex- ander Stedman, Patrick Baird, John Sober, David Franks, John Inglis, Ninian Wiseheart, Abram Tay- lor, James Trotter, Samson Levy, Lynford Lardner, | Richard Hill, Jr., Benjamin Price, John Francis, William McIlvaine, William Humphreys, William Peters, James Polyccen, William Franklin, Henry Harrison, John Hewston, David Boiles, Thomas White, John Lawrence, Thomas Graeme, John Cot- tenham, John Moland, and William Cozzens.

In this year the dancing assembly was under the direction of John Inglis, Lynford Lardner, John Wallace, and John Swift. The subscription was forty shillings.

Gentlemanly accomplishments were looked after during this period. In 1742 there appeared this noti- fication :

"These are to give notice to all gentlemen who desire to learn the true method and art of defense of the small-sword in its greatest perfec- tion, and extraordinarily quick and speedy, with all the guards, parades, thrusts, nud lessone therenoto belonging fully described, and also the best rule for playing against artists or others with blunte or sharps, that they may be taught the same by me, Richard Kyenall, professor and master of the said art, who is to be spokeu with at Dr. Richard Farmer's, in Second Street.

" Note .- He teaches gentlemeu either in private or public, by the month or the whole."

In 1746 one Kennet advertised to teach the arts and accomplishments of dancing and the use of the small- sword.

This notice elicited, in a succeeding newspaper, an indignant article, signed by Samuel Foulk, in which he said, "I was surprised at his audacity and brazen impudence in giving those detestable vices those high encomiums. They be proved so far from accomplish- ments that they are diabolical."

In 1749 the following advertisement appeared in the public journals :

"John Beals, music-master, from London, at bie house in Fourth Street, near to Chestnut, joining to Mr. Linton, collar-maker, teaches the violin, hautboy, German flute, common flute, and dulcimer, by note. Mr. Reales likewise attenda young ladies or others that may desire it al their houses. He likewise produces music for balls or other entertain- ments."

All this might be borne, but in the same year, 1749, an event happened which was well calculated to fill with alarm and sorrow the bosoms of the worthy Friends. A theatrical company made its first appear- ance in Philadelphia. In John Smith's manuscript

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journal is given the following entry, under date of Sixth month (August) 22, 1749 :

"Joseph Morris and I happened in at Peacock Bigger's and drank tea there, and his daughter being one of the company who were going to hear the tragedy of 'Cato' acted, it occasioned some conversation, in which I expressed my sorrow that anything of the kind was encour- aged."

Where this company performed is not known. It might have been at the store-house in Water Street near Pine, afterward occupied by Hallam's company, to whom the introduction of the drama in this coun- try, in 1752, has been erroneously assigned. That these comedians must have lingered here several months is shown by the following representation, made to the Common Council on the 8th of January, 1750 :

" The Recorder reported that certain persone had lately taken upon them to act playe in this city, and, as he was informed, intended to make a frequent practice thereof, which, it was to be feared, would be attended with very mischievous effects, such as the encouragement of idleness and drawing great aume of money from weak and inconsiderate persone, who are apt to be fond of such kind of entertainment, though the per- formance be ever eo mean and contemptible. Whereupon the Board unanimously requested the magistrates to take the most effectual meas- ures for suppressing this disorder, by sending for the actors and binding them to their good behavior, or by such other means as they should think proper."

Possibly the action of the magistrates produced the flight of these sons of Thespis from the city. The New York Gazette of the 26th of February, 1750, con- tains the following :

"Last week arrived here a company of comedians from Philadelphia, who we hear have taken a convenient room for their purpose in one of the buildinge lately belonging to the Hon. Rip Vao Dam, Eeq., deceased, in Nassau Street, where they intend to perform as long as the season lasts, provided they meet with suitable encouragement."

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History of Philadelphia, 1609-1884, Part 3

Author: Scharf, J. Thomas (John Thomas), 1843-1898. cn; Westcott, Thompson, 1820-1888, joint author Publication date: 1884 Publisher: Philadelphia, Pa. : L. H. Everts & Co. Number of Pages: 992

Author: Scharf, J. Thomas (John Thomas), 1843-1898. cn; Westcott, Thompson, 1820-1888, joint author
Publication date: 1884
Publisher: Philadelphia, Pa. : L. H. Everts & Co.
Number of Pages: 992