History of Philadelphia, 1609-1884, Part 7

Author: Scharf, J. Thomas (John Thomas), 1843-1898. cn; Westcott, Thompson, 1820-1888, joint author
Publication date: 1884
Publisher: Philadelphia, Pa. : L. H. Everts & Co.
Number of Pages: 992

USA > Pennsylvania > Philadelphia County > Philadelphia > History of Philadelphia, 1609-1884 > Part 7

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If there was an improvement in the furnishing of the average citizen's home, the wealthier Philadelphians, who erected splendid mansions and took such pains to beautify their grounds, could not do otherwise than buy furniture that would harmonize with the general arrangement of their houses. To the common paper- hanging they preferred wainscoting with some hard wood. Mr. Kalm says he saw in 1748, in Fair Hill, the country-seat of Mr. Norris,-one of the members of the Assembly,-a parlor wainscoted with boards of red cedar, which looked very well at the beginning, but was then quite faded and shabby. It was to be

replaced with mahogany. The elaborately-carved and gilded furniture of Queen Anne's time, which remained so long in fashion, must have been in keep- ing with the grandeur of some of those Philadelphia mansions, and among the relics of olden time pre- served in some of our families may be found some of the curious little tables, cabinets, and clock-cases made of pieces of different kinds of wood and called "marketry," or more properly marquetterie, from the name of the ingenious inventor, the Frenchman Mar- quette.

One decided improvement introduced in most of the houses, to the great comfort of the family, was the Franklin stove, which revolutionized the time- honored but objectionable method of warming the houses by means of open fireplaces. Dr. Franklin's invention, made in 1742, was an open stove, the plates of which had passages or air-chambers between them, through which the air circulated, diffusing a greater amount of heat in the room, with a positive saving of fuel. Robert Grace cast some plates for it, and Franklin wrote and published a pamphlet entitled " An Account of the New Pennsylvania Fireplaces wherein their Construction is particularly explained," etc. About the same time, there was a sort of stove made like a square box, which was set in the side of the kitchen fireplace, passing through the wall, so as to present the back end in the adjoining room, and was known as the German stove. They were made by Christopher Sauer, of Germantown. It is not known which of the two stoves was first invented, but Franklin's was decidedly the better one, and it hecame generally adopted.

There were no very material changes in the ladies' dresses, the hoop still maintaining its hold, as also the furbelows; the robe was made low in front, the upper part of the stomacher and the short sleeves edged with point-lace. Aprons were in fashion, and were worn sometimes long and at other times short, exposing the richly embroidered petticoat. Capuchin hoods were in style. But the greatest change was in the dressing of the hair. The simple and elegant coiffure of natural curls, already described, was in vogue only a few years. The old style of building up the hair in a high pyramid suddenly reappeared with still more exaggerated proportions. The hair was carried up over wire frameworks, stiffened with pomade sprinkled with powder, and formed a bewil- dering edifice adorned with curls, flowers, and feathers. Sometimes a sort of a little hat was perched on the apex of this wondrous structure. How our grand- mothers ever had the patience to sit three or four hours under the manipulations of the hair-dresser, and how they could move, walk, and dance with such a load on their cranium, is the wonder of their grand- daughters. Jewels-rich bracelets, necklaces, and chains-were much worn. It was the fashion for a lady to carry a costly gold snuff-box with a looking-glass inside the lid; as she opened the box to take or offer

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a pinch, she could cast a surreptitious glance at her fair visage and see if her rouge was not coming off, and if her "beauty-spots," i.e., patches, were still in the right places.

Satire often attempted to check the extravagances of fashion, but with little success. So it has been in all times, and a very thick volume might be made with the thankless advice given, iu verse alone, by well-meaning men to the adorable creatures who read, smiled, and forthwith went to have a consultation with their dress-maker or their modiste about the latest style of dress or the coming bonnet. During the troubles that culminated in the Revolution, strenu- ous efforts were made to discourage the use of foreign manufactures. The ladies were appealed to, and for a time their patriotism was equal to the greatest sac- rifices ; yet during the Revolutionary period we shall hear many complaints of their extravagance. Enthu- siasm and perseverance are very different virtues.

The following lines appeared in Bradford's Journal (Dec. 3, 1767 ) :

" AN ADDRESS TO THE LADIES.

" Young ladies in town and those that live ronod, Let a friend at this season advise you ; Since money's so scarce and times growing worse, Strange things may soon hap and surprise yon. First, then, throw aside your high top-knots of pride; Wear none but your own country linen ;

Of economy boast-let your pride be the most To show clothes of your own make and spinning. What if hontespun, they say, is not quite so gay As brocades, yet be not in a passion ; For when once 'tis known this is much worn in town, One and all will cry out 'tis the fashion !

And as one all will agree that you'll not married be To such as will wear Loudon fact'ry ;

But at first refuse-tell 'em such do you choose As encourage our own manufactory.

No more ribbons wear, nor in rich dress appear ; Love your country much more than fine things. Begin without passion-'twill soon be the fashion To grace your smooth locks with twine strings. Throw aside your Bohed and your Green Hyson tea, And in all things with a new fashion duty ; Procure a good store of the choice Labradore ; For there'll soon be enough here to suit ye. These do without fear, and to all you'll appear Fair, charming, true, lovely, and clear.

The' the times remain darkish, young noen may he sparkish, And love you much stronger than ever."

A Philadelphian, in 1769, sends to the Penny Post the following :

"RECEIPT FOR A MODERN DRESS.

" Pin a small bugle cnp on as big as a crown ; Smout it off with a ribbon vulgo dict à pompon. Let your powder be gray ; and braid np your hair Liko the mune of a colt to be sold at a fair. A short pair of jumps half an ell from your chin, To make you appear like one just lying-in. Before, for your breastpin, n stomacher bib oo ; Ragout it with cutlers of silver and ribbon. Your neck and your shoulders both naked should be- Was it not for Vandyke blown with sheva de free! Let your gown be u bluck, blue, yellow, or green, And frizzle your elbows with ruffles sixteen. Furl off your lawn aprons with flouncee in rows ; Puff and pucker up kuots In your arms and your toes ;

Make your petticoats short, that a hoop eight yards wide May decently show how your garters are tied: With fringes of notting your dickey cabob; On slippers of velvet set gold à la baube.

But mount on French heels when you go to a dance- 'Twas the fashion in England and likewise in France."

But let us not anticipate. The period of which we were speaking was one of peace and security. We were describing the dress of the ladies; they but copied the fashions of English society, with modera- tion doubtless, and, to the eternal honor of their womanhood, they did not copy its vices. Rev. An- drew Burnaby, who visited Philadelphia between 1759 and 1760, was very favorably impressed with our belles. Here is what he said,-

" The women are exceedingly handsome and polite. They are nat- urally sprightly and fond of pleasure, and, upon the whole, are much more agreeable aud accomplished than the men. Since their intercourse with the English officers they are greatly improved, and, without flattery, many of them would not make bad figures even in the first assemblies in Europe. Their amusements are principally dancing in the winter, and in the summer formning parties of pleasure npon the Schuylkill aod in the country. There is a society of sixteen ladies and as many gen- tlemen, called the Fishing Company, who meet once in a fortnight upon the Schuylkill. They have a very pleasant room erected in a romantic situation on the banks of that river, where they generally dine and drink teu. There are several pretty walks around it, and some wild and rugged rocks, which, together with the water and fine groves that adoro the baoks, form a most beautiful and picturesqne scene. There are boats and fishing-tackle of all sorts, and the company divert them- selves with walking, fishing, going npou the water, dancing, singing, or conversing, just as they please. The ladies wear a uniform, and they appear with great esse and advantage from the nextness and simplicity of it. The first and most distinguished people of the colony are of this society, and it is very advantageous to a stranger to be introduced to it, as he thereby gets acquainted with the best and most respectable com- pady in Philadelphia. In winter, when there is snow on the ground, it is usual to make what they call sleighing-parties, or to go upon it in sledges." 1

When we read of the polished society of those days, of their elegant dresses, their jewels and laces and inimitable fashions, we cannot help thinking of one or two things which they did not have, things the poorest woman of our day could not do without. Tooth-brushes, until quite recently, were unknown, and the fairest lady rubbed her teeth with a rag, which, horresco referens, she dipped in snuff! Then they had no knowledge of ice-cream or soda-water, the former not having been introduced in Philadel- phia until 1800 by a Mr. Bosio, who made a fortune, and the latter being a still more modern invention. A queer omission of the progress of the age was that they had no visiting or blank cards. Invitations to a ball or party were printed or written on the backs of playing-cards. All of which did not hinder the people from enjoying life. They were very fond of dancing, at least those who were not restrained by religious scruples. The City Assembly, established in 1748, had kept up its organization. It held its

I Mr. Westcott, In his " History of Philadelphia," saye in regard to these impressions of travel of Mr. Burnaby, " As there is nothing in the minutes of 'The Colony on the Schuylkill' or Fort St. David's Fishing Company to show that ladies were associate members, the club alluded to by Mr. Buruaby is probably the Mount Regale Fishing Com- pany."

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MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, 1700-1800.

meetings for some time at Hamilton's wharf, on the south side of the draw-bridge, and subsequently at the Freemason's Hall, Lodge Alley. The following- named ladies, belonging to the fashionable society of the time, were invited to grace with their presence a ball given by the Assembly in 1757 :

Mrs. Allen, Mrs. Taylor, Mrs. Hamilton, Mrs. Brotherson, Mrs. Inglis, Mrs. Jeykell, Mrs. Franks, Mrs. Lydia McCall, Sr., Mrs. Samnel McCall, Mrs. Samuel McCall, Jr., Mrs Swift, Mrs. Sims, Mrs. Willcocks, Mrs. Lawrence, Sr., Mis. Lawrence, Jr., Mrs. Robertson, Mrs. Francis, Mrs. Greame, Mrs. Joseph Shippen, Mrs. Dolgreso, Mrs. Phineas Bond, Mrs. Burd, Mrs. Charles Steadman, Mrs. Thomas White, Mrs. Johnes, Mrs. Warren, Mrs. Oswald, Mrs. Thomas Bond, Mrs. Davey, Mrs. William Humphreys, Mrs. Pennery, Mrs. Henry Harrison, Mrs. Bingham, Mrs. Clymer, Mrs. Wallace, Mrs. Ellis, Mrs. Alexander Steadman, Mrs. Hop- kinson, Mrs. Hockley, Mrs. Marks, Miss Mollie Francis, Miss Betty Francis, Miss Osboro, Miss Sober, Miss Mollie Lawrence, Miss Kitty Lawrence, Mrs. George Smith, Miss Nancy Hickman, Miss Sallie Hun- lock, Miss Peggy Harding, Miss Mollie McCall, Miss Peggy McCall, Mi-s Lardner, Miss Betty Blumstead, Miss Rebecca Davis, Miss Jeanie Greame, Miss Nellie McCall, Miss Randolph, Miss Sophia White, Mrs. Venables, Miss Hyatt, Miss Betty Clifftoo, Miss Mollie Dick, Miss Fao- nie Jeykell, Miss Fannie Marks, Miss Peggy Oswald, Miss Betty Oswald, Miss Sallie Woodrop, Miss Mollie Oswald, Mrs. Willing, Miss Nancy Willing, Miss Dolly Willing, Mrs. Mellvaine, Miss Betty Gryden, Miss Sallie Fishbourne, Miss Furnell, Miss Isabella Cairnie, Miss Pennyfather, Miss Jenoie Richardson, Mrs. Reily, Mrs. Graydon, Mrs. Ross, Mrs. Peter Bard, Mrs. Franklin, Miss Lucy De Normandie, Miss Phebe Wine- coop, Mrs. Harkly.

Dancing-masters visited Philadelphia occasionally, giving the gay people an opportunity to learn the latest fashionable dance. In 1761, John Walsh ad- vertised that he taught "dancing in all its parts, after the most elegant tastes, together with a masquerade and a Spanish fandango, much in esteem." He de- clared that "he had the honor to perform before the Vice-King in Peru, with a royal bounty ; also with satisfaction in France, Italy, Chili, etc." His school- room was in Videll's Alley, "but he was to be spoke with" at Mrs. Harper's, in Spruce Street. In 1763 John Baptiste Tyol advertised in the month of Au- gust that he had just come to town, and as soon as he could obtain a convenient room, and the weather became a little cooler, he intended opening a dancing- school. In order to make his merits known he stated that he had performed one year at the King's Opera- House, Haymarket; two years at the Theatre Royal, at Drury Lane, under Mr. Garrick ; three years at the Dublin Theatre, and in several of the cities of Germany, France, Portugal, and Italy. He added, " As he learns that a regular prudent dancing-master is much wanted here, he flatters himself that he will be able to meet the due encouragement of the public."

Signor Sodi opened his dancing-school on Chestnut Street, back of the Fountain Tavern. He announced that he taught "rigadoons, paspies, etc.," all new French dances. In 1770 a Signor Gualda advertised a concert and ball at the Freemason's Lodge, admis- sion ten shillings, with the singular proviso, " If any lady or gentleman chooses to go away after the con- cert, the porter will return him one-half a crown.17

Much attention also was paid to music, principally of a sacred character. In 1752, Robert Coe modestly

announced that, "conceiving himself capable of teach- ing to play on that agreeable instrument, the German flute," he offered to do so for fifteen shillings en- trance, and the same amount per month. He was to be found in " Third Street, being the next door but one above Mr. Joseph Fox's." But the worthy mu- sician has two strings to his bow, for he lets it be known that he also draws bills, bonds, leases, etc., at the house next door to the Horse and Groom, in Strawberry Alley. In 1759, Francis Alberti adver- tised that he taught the violin "in the best manner and neatest style according to the new Italian method. By the subscriber, an Italian born." In 1764, John Schneider, a German, offered to "teach gentlemen to play on the French horn." A concert of musical glasses, in 1765, was a great success. The singers of Hallam and Douglass' company, Mr. Wools, Miss Wainwright, Miss Hallam, Mr. Wall, Miss Cheer, and others, occasionally gave concerts. They con- tributed not a little to increase the taste for music. The mandolin was the favorite instrument then, and Mr. Wall, of the theatre company, gave special les- sons on this instrument.

Signor Gualda, in 1770, gave a "concert of vocal and instrumental music, solos, and concertos on vari- ous instruments, the favorite mandolin not excepted."

The organ was introduced at the College and Academy a few years after it was built. Philip Fy- ring manufactured organs for Christ Church and other churches as early as 1762.

While on the theme of music, we will note that the first piano, in all probability, that was built in this country, was made by John Behrent, in Third Street (opposite Coates' burying-ground, below Brown Street). He advertised in 1775 that he had "just finished an extraordinary instrument by the name of the piano-forte, made of mahogany, being of the nature of a harpsichord, with hammers and several changes."

Duels, so frequent in England at that time, were of very rare occurrence in Philadelphia, yet a few did take place. In 1721, Solomon Fry, mariner, and Francis Jones fought with swords, and both were wounded. In 1750, Thomas Crosse and Hugh Davy fought also with swords, and Davy was wounded. It is not surprising, therefore, that some attention should have been given to the art of fencing. All gentlemen who desired to be known as fashionable and polite members of society learned the use of the sword. Fencing-masters, therefore, found occupation in Phila- delphia as well as dancing-masters, although they were not at first received with favor, as we have shown in the history of the first part of the eighteenth cen- tury. They were tolerated, however, even then, and at a later day met with no opposition. In 1756, Rich- ard Lyneall, professor of the small-sword and self- defense, notified the public that he was to be seen at the Tun Tavern, in Walnut Street. In 1763, Jolın De Florette, fencing-master at the l'rince of Orange, in

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HISTORY OF PHILADELPHIA.

Second Street, notified the public that he taught the broadsword, backsword, spaderoon, and dagger. But this worthy Frenchman, not content with enumerating the weapons in the use of which he was skilled, added some advice to the young Philadelphians on the im- portance of a knowledge of fencing. "Young men without it have to put up with insults of the grossest nature, and much to their dishonor, whereas, were they masters of self-defense, they would be able to resent it in a genteel manner."

The gentlemen's costume suffered a few alterations, and those for the better. The coat-no longer of velvet, silk, or satin, except for full-dress, but of strong cloth-was square cut, with some simple trimming and black lining; the long-flapped waistcoat descend- ing very low, and the stockings drawn very high over the knee; large hanging cuffs to the coat-sleeves, and lace ruffles. The skirts of the coat much less dis- tended with wire; stockings of blue or scarlet silk ; square-toed, short-quartered shoes, with high red heels and small buckles. All wore wigs, but of smaller size than before. The small three-cornered hat was laced with gold or silver galloon, and sometimes trimmed with feathers.

Old advertisements will again assist us. Here is one relative to wigs :

In 1760, Charles Eustace, peruke-maker, Walnut Street, between Front and Second, advertised that "gentlemen may be completely furnished with bag wigs of the neatest fashion, or of whatsoever fashion they choose; also scratch wigs and scratch bob wigs, cut wigs and long gristle-dress wigs, and all others, as gentlemen may choose."

Another, dated 1759, gives an idea of the uniforms of the Pennsylvania troops; it refers to deserters from various commands. Deserters from Col. John Arm- strong's battalion, First Pennsylvania Regiment, were described as having worn green regimental coats, faced with red, red waistcoats, and buckskin breeches. Capt. John Singleton's company of the Pennsylvania new levies had green regimentals ; while Capt. James Armstrong's company, Pennsylvania Regiment of Foot, were advertised as wearing blue regimentals.

In 1752 there appeared the advertisement of the first undertaker, James Humphries, in Second Street, one door below the Baptist Church. He also an- nounced that he had got a variety of mourning. In 1753 a rival establishment was started by John Nice, opposite the Baptist Church. A new business in con- nection with funerals was inaugurated in 1766; Lydia Darragh, opposite the Golden Fleece, in Second Street, advertised that she was prepared "to lay out the dead,-a service greatly wanted, as she under- stands."

Very few Philadelphians kept a carriage in the olden time, and even hired vehicles were scarce; traveling was done principally on horseback. Mr. Watson, in his " Annals," mentions-besides William Penn's "coach" and "calash," alluded to in the

latter's letters to Logan-some of the oldest of these vehicles. He says that in 1761 there were only thirty-eight private carriages in Philadelphia; Wil- liam Allen, the chief justice, the Widow Lawrence, and Widow Martin were the only owners of coaches. William Peters and Thomas Willing owned the only two landaus. There were eighteen chariots enumer- ated, of which the proprietor and the Governor had each of them one. Fifteen chairs concluded the enumeration. He says that according to the recollec- tions of James Reed, who died in 1793, at an ad- vanced age, there were only eight four-wheeled car- riages kept in all the province; they were: coaches, the Governor's (Gordon), Jonathan Dickinson's, Isaac Norris', Andrew Hamilton's, Anthony Pal- mer's; four-wheeled chairs, drawn by two horses, James Logan's (Stenton), David Lloyd's (Chester), Lawrence Growden's (Bucks). Mrs. Shoemaker (aged ninety-five) told Mr. Watson that pleasure-carriages were very rare in her youth. She remembered that her grandfather had one, and that he used to say he was almost ashamed to appear abroad in it, although it was only a one-horse chair, lest he should be thought effeminate and proud. She remembered old Richard Wistar had one also. When she was about twenty, Charles Willing, merchant, brought a calash coach with him from England. This and Judge William Allen's were the only ones she had ever seen.

In the manuscript of Du Simitiere he has preserved an enumeration of the persons, eighty-four in number, who kept carriages in Philadelphia in 1772. Four or five of these persons owned two carriages.1 In the

1 The American Historical Record, vol. ii., 1873, publishes this list of carriage-owoers, furnished by a New Jersey correspondent. We quote what follows, from the introductory remarks: " This list, like the famous Roll of Battle Abbey, has been tampered with, the name of 'Tench Fraucis' being inserted in a different hand and darker ink luan that of the original transcriber, and a strange hand in lend pencil has written opposite this name, 'added by J. F. F.' Watson gives 'eighty- four,' meaniog the number of names, as we have shown above, and his manuscript Annals were finished iu 1842. As 'Tench Francis' makes eighty-five, it will be seen that it was inserted since that date. It was noticeable he is set down for a ' coach' and one ' chariot, or post wagon.' A ' coach' was & special distinction in those days ; the list mentions eight only out of the eighty-four owners of other vehicles, and could hardly have been overlooked by the observant Du Simitiere."

We condenss the list, which is in tabular form in the Record. Richard Panu, Governor, all sorts; James Hamilton, one chariot ; William Al- len, chief justice, one coach and one chariot; Dr. Graeme, one chariot ; John Dickinson, lawyor, one chariot ; Benjamin Chew, recorder of Phil- adelphia, lawyer, one coach, ona chariot; Joseph Galloway, Speaker of the Assembly, lawyer, one chariot ; John Ross, Inwyer, ono chariot ; Joseph Reed, lawyer, ona chariot; Thomas Willing, merchant, one coach ; John Lawrence ; Thomas Lawrence, city vendue master ; Edward Shippen, Jr., Lynford Lardner, uncle to the Governor ; Richard Peters, D D., rector of Christ Church, Philadelphia ; Robert Morris, merchant ; Archd. McCall, merchant; Samnel Nenve, merchant ; William West, merchant ; Capt. Isaac Cox, merchant; William Moore, merchant; Capt. Samuel Mifflin, merchant; Daniel Rundle, merchant; David Franks, merchant,-ench ono chariot ; Daniel Benezet, Samnel Smith, Samuel Purviance, Henry Kepple, merchant,-each one coach-wagon ; Henry Kepple, Jr., one chariot; James Craig, merchant and ship- chandlor ; Andrew llodge, merchant and ship brend-baker,-each one coach-wagon ; Jolin Cudwalader, all sorts ; William Straker, merchant; Capt. Williams, of the Eugineers ; Reynold Keen, Andrew Duche,

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year 1794 the number of pleasure-carriages taxed was 847, to wit: 33 coaches, 157 coachees, 35 chariots, 22 phaetons, 80 light wagons, and 520 chairs and sulkies.

The carriage used by Gen. Washington while Pres- ident, and which had been imported for Governor Richard Penn, was the most splendid ever seen in the city. It was very large and heavy, and was drawn by four horses. A correspondent of Mr. Watson gives some facts about this vehicle, as seen by him in his youth, and, later, when it was a dese- crated and forgotten relic of the past: "It was of cream color, with much more of gilded carvings in the frame than is since used. Its strongest attractions were the relief ornaments on the panels, they being painted medallion pictures of playing cupids or naked children. That carriage I afterward saw in 1804-5 in my store-yard at New Orleans, where it lay an out- cast in the weather, the result of a bad speculation in a certain Doctor Young, who had bought it at public sale, took it out to New Orleans for sale, and could find no one to buy it, where all were content with plain volantes. A far better speculation would have been to have taken it to the Marquis of Lansdown or other admirers of Washington in England." "It became in time," adds Mr. Watson, in a foot-note, "a kind of out-house, in which fowls roosted; and in the great battle of New Orleans it stood between the combatants, and was greatly shot-ridden. Its goose- neck crane has been laid aside for me."

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History of Philadelphia, 1609-1884, Part 7

Author: Scharf, J. Thomas (John Thomas), 1843-1898. cn; Westcott, Thompson, 1820-1888, joint author Publication date: 1884 Publisher: Philadelphia, Pa. : L. H. Everts & Co. Number of Pages: 992

Author: Scharf, J. Thomas (John Thomas), 1843-1898. cn; Westcott, Thompson, 1820-1888, joint author
Publication date: 1884
Publisher: Philadelphia, Pa. : L. H. Everts & Co.
Number of Pages: 992