Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia., Part 30

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920
Publication date: 1909
Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.]
Number of Pages: 607

USA > Virginia > Frederick County > Frederick County > Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia. > Part 30

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Unfortunately no church records were pre- served for many years; and this state of affairs narrows the history of the church to either

tradition or Presbyterial reports. After Mr. Le- grand's ministry closed, the church was sup- plied by many distinguished ministers: A. A. Chapman, John Lodor, David H. Riddle, J. D. Mathews, Dr. Wm. Hill, Mr. Kilpatrick and oth- ers. The church in Winchester increased as the population grew, and exercised some kind of control; and the congregation received atten- tion from the Winchester Church. Especially was this the case after the organization of the New School Church (Loudoun Street), under the pastorate of Dr. A. H. H. Boyd and by Rev. Silas Billings from Cedar Creek. The old church was never without regular preaching, the con- gregations however diminishing as removals oc- curred, and disposition on the part of many fam- ilies to attend the Winchester churches, though the old Opecquon was never closed until the Bat- tle of Kernstown, with its attendant devastations, which put the old stone building in such condi- tion, that services were discontinued until the close of hostilities. Then it was soon overhauled by Rev. Wm. A. Crawford, who had recently become a resident of the neighborhood, and through his efforts, aided by his accomplished and saintly wife, converted one end of it into a habitable place. Sunday School and Gospel Services were eagerly enjoyed by the neighbor- ing families, irrespective of Creed; and for sev- eral years regular services were held. However, a day came when fire destroyed the old temple. For many years thereafter, the walls were tumb- ling in, and the old graveyard so long neglect- ed, was at last hidden out of sight by bush and briar. All lost hope of restoring the old place, excepting Mr. Crawford and his family. At last the day came, when the descendants of the old ancestors, whose graves were hidden in the wilderness, agitated the subject, often discussed, and as often abandoned it. Finally it was sug- gested that an effort be made to erect a Memorial to the first settlers of the Lower Shenandoah Valley. Plans were at once adopted; the author was made chairman of the "Church-Erection Fund." He immediately addressed a circular letter to the descendants of the old families, whose names were found on the monuments and broken slabs in the old graveyard, stating the object. The descendants alone were expected to contribute funds to reclaim the old place, and erect a suitable memorial on the foundation of the old church. This circular was sent to the Middle West, Northwest and other States, to the newspapers in many cities and towns. Con- tributions were to be sent direct to the cashier of the Shenandoah Valley National Bank at Win- chester, to be placed to the credit of the Church Erection Fund; the sender to notify T. K. Cart-

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mell, Clerk of Frederick County Court. Inter- esting and encouraging letters, with liberal con- tributions, came from every section. This first step was taken in January 1896, and in the Spring the work of cleaning away the old foundation began; and soon new walls were started on part of the old foundation, which was 60 feet in length and 45 feet in width-the Memorial Build- ing to be much smaller. The committee chose the foundation on the West and South sides, Workmen and committees worked cheerfully, and in a short time, the blue limestone walls were run up to a point where the Corner-Stone was .to be laid; and quoting from The Evening Star, a Winchester daily, we have the following notice written by some visitor :

"Corner Stone Laid .- Accepting the invitation of some friends, the writer joined a party to visit the Old Opecquon Church yesterday after- noon, where we found quite an assemblage of interested persons, irrespective of sect or creed, the occasion being to place the corner stone in position. The Memorial Building, which is rap- idly going up, is a most artistic piece of work, the limestone rock from the old ruin being used as far as practicable. The services yesterday afternoon were intended to be informal. Rev. Henry M. White, D.D., pastor of Loudoun Street Presbyterian Church, read appropriate Scrip- tures, also a paper prepared by him recounting some incidents of the early history of the church, as well as the names of the ministers who have from time to time preached in the old Church, and also matters incident to the present effort to erect this Memorial to the departed people. Mr. C. G. Crawford, Ruling Elder of the pres- ent Church, read a list of the membership, and also the names of the contractors and workmen engaged on the new work. Rev. Wm. A. Craw- ford offered a most impressive prayer; Mr. T. K. Cartmell next announced a list of the con- tents of the box, which included copies of the Star, all placed in the Stone by Master Frank Crawford, then the Willey Brothers, contrac- tors, laid the Corner-stone to the satisfaction of all present; the inscription on the stone being: "Organized about 1738-Built 1790 Re- built 1870-73-Rebuilt 1896. VISITOR"

Work proceeded steadily until the structure with its walls of hewn stone, unique tower- home for the sweet toned bell-(a special me- morial) gothic style of architecture, memorial windows, etc., fully completed in October 1897. The dedication service October 30th, was a mem- orable event. Descendants from far and near, were early on the ground, members of Win-

chester Presbytery from various churches were present. Dr. Jas. R. Graham opened the ser- vices with an invocation; Rev. A. C. Hopkins, D.D., of Charlestown, in a happy address, pre- sented the keys of the church to Elder C. G. Crawford; prayer by Rev. Wm. A. Crawford. Dr. F. M. Woods, of Martinsburg, preached the sermon, after which luncheon was served on the grounds. In the afternoon Dr. H. M. White, who has had the pastoral care of the Opecquon Congregation for several years, made an address full of historical events relating to the Old Opec- quon. Dr. Jas. P. Smith, editor of the Central Presbyterian, well known to many as Stonewall Jackson's Aid and Chaplain, was the bearer of a letter from Rev. Moses D. Hoge, D.D., ad- dressed to the writer, chairman of the finance committee. This letter contained a liberal con- tribution to be used in the memorial to his an- cestors; and the writer was requested to read the letter to the audience. Rev. A. G. Link, of Strasburg, Cedar Creek, and Cedar Cliff church- es, Rev. W. Mc. White, of Lewisburg, were pres- ent. Ministers from other denominations were present and entered into the services with great cordiality. One pleasing incident of the day oc- cured when one of the Winchester artists ap- peared on the grounds, and desired views of the scene. He was fortunate in securing several of these. The old graveyard, recently reclaimed and with its old grave-stones in better position than they had been for a number of years, and the sacred acre enclosed with a wrought iron fence on the West, South and East sides, on the North end with a limestone wall formed from the remnants of the old yard fence, supplement- ed by rocks from the old church walls, pre- sented a picture that was inviting to the eye of the artist; so he soon adjusted portions of the crowd, to give in the photograph a picture of the church, the old graveyard, and also those who were prominent in the day's services. Many of these photographs found their way into many distant homes. The old graveyard was visited during the day by many visitors. About the center of this plat stands a rude and odd-shaped sand stone, bearing marks of time, as the crum- bled edges show, caused by bullets during the battle that once surged through the grounds, or from atmospheric influences. Whatever be the cause, the stone itself attracts attention from its jagged edges and rude appearance. But the strange inscription is startling. The writer many years ago, made a fac-simile copy, so that it could be preserved before further defacement would destroy its history; and to better preserve it, gives this space. On one side is the following :

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"John Willson Intered here The Bodys of His 2 Childer & Wife Ye Mother Mary Marcus, Who Dyed Ag'st The 4-1742 Aged-22 Years On the opposite side are these letters : "FROM IRL, AND July Vi, th 1737 Co y Arg ma G H"

Dr. Foote in "Sketches of Virginia" (1855) says : "This stone was the first reared in the Valley of Virginia to mark the resting place of an emigrant, and the inscription should be pre- served; the stone was erected by the husband who inscribed the letters himself, to be a me- morial to his young wife and children, and tra- dition also says he was the School-Master."

On the North side of this yard, we find much space occupied by the Glass family, and a lime- stone monument tells its own story. "Erected to the memory of Samuel Glass and Mary Gam- ble his wife, who came from Ban Bridge, County Down, Ireland, taking their abode on the Opec- quon in 1736." (See Glass Family Sketch.) In the plat surrounding this Glass monu- ment lie several generations of this family, some marked by simple marble slabs bearing names and dates. Dr. Foote in his Sketches, gives place for a poem in connection with his visit to this monument, written by a young lady who had so often charmed the worshippers in the Old Church with the melody of a voice that ever softened the heart and fastened impres- sions upon the memory of all, of the lovely life that was so soon to close, and she to take her place by the ancestors. One simple slab bears the name of Miss Sarah A. Glass, the authoress of the poem ;. We give the first and last lines of this lengthy poem :

"Hear you not the warning sigh On the breeze that passes by; Lingerers near this solemn ground, To our silent home ye're bound."

"Lingerers! idle not your day ; Fly and seek Him while you may."

Another monument attracts attention, stand- ing directly South of the Glass shaft. On this white marble shaft, we read that it was erected in memory of the Gilkeson family. On one side is "John Gilkeson died June 1793; Sarah Gilke- son died March 1810." On the other side- "Col. John Gilkeson Sept. 15, 1783- Feby. 27, 1856. Sarah L. Gilkeson Aug. 21, 1781- May 30, 1847." Around this monument are many

slabs marking the resting places of several gen- erations of this large and influential family. The writer will mention here that the Col. John mentioned, was the father of Mr. John Gilke- son who so liberally contributed to erect the Me- morial Church; and also by the generous efforts of his widow, the Church bell and graveyard fence were their joint memorials. The Church bell deserves special mention here, lest it be for- gotten. Mrs. Gilkeson wrote the author that she desired a bell to be made according to her own plan, and entirely at her expense; that she would have her husband's friend, who had been his secretary for thirty years, proceed to Albany N. Y. and carry with him valuable jewels that were valued highly by her and her husband, and have the founder fuse them into the molten mass, which was to be cast into this Memorial bell. The finished work was carefully brought to the writer, with letters from Mrs. Gilkeson request- ing "That we bear in mind that if any accident occurred in fitting it in its home, a broken bell meant a broken sentiment."

Our committee was greatly rejoiced and re- lieved when the cords were drawn and the sweet tones of this memorial were heard twelve miles away. Its music is now heard on each recurring Sabbath, reverberating among the Opecquon vales and dells. The writer trusts that readers of these lines will pardon this digression. Such senti- mental incidents are often forgotten, and told in after years, would be as mere tradition, with none to vouch for the real incident. East of the Gilkeson shaft, are marks of the resting places of many others. Mention of any of the names in the group will interest the reader- Willson, White, Hoge, Vance, Marquis, Hite, Davis, Simerall, Chipley, Ashby, Ashley, Mc- Auley, Massie, and many others who represent pioneer classes, whose names will more fully appear in other pages. The old Cemetery has been considered filled many years ago; many graves have no marks now, their old markings destroyed; for war devastates the most sacred of all places; and now much of the old place will forever remain a blank.

Bullskin Church

According to the most reliable information ob- tained from old county and church records and other sources, we find this church entitled to recognition as one of the old places of public worship. Dr. Graham says "The name of Bull- skin Congregation appears in the old Donegal Records for April 1, 1740, and that Mr. Caven is directed to visit Bullskin and that he should preach at 'Upekin,' the Friday before going to Bullskin." The church stood near the head-

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spring of Bullskin Creek. This spring is nearly a mile South from Summit Point, in Jefferson County, W. Va., near a turnpike road to Berry- ville. Many evidences are to be found that this church was well supplied by able Ministers for many years; but to-day, strange to say, not a vestige of the old church remains, and very few of the old residents can recall anything connect- ed with it. The name seems to have disappeared from among the Presbytery records very soon after 1795. Dr. Graham also says Mr. Legrand was there in 1791, and that Dr. Archibald Alexan- der (then a licentiate), accompanied him from Winchester, and they held services in the Old Church on the hill; and that services began to be held at other and more central points, which gradually drew away the members from the old place. Dr. Wm. Hill was called by the Charles- town and Smithfield Churches to be their pastor, and doubtless this hastened the abandonment of the old church; for Dr. Hill at that time was attracting wide attention."

South Branch Church

We have evidence of the existence of a Pres- byterian preaching place at some point in the South Branch Valley, as shown in the church records of Donegal Presbytery, Dec. 1I, 1740, and again May 30, 1741. Old county records show that several settlements were petitioning the court for roads, etc. The location of this church is not known at this writing. It is well known, however, that there were several preach- ing places near the mouth of South Branch Riv- er in the early days, but no regular churches. Dr. Graham says no such church was ever or- ganized.

Cedar Creek Church

This old Church deserves special mention. The writer has been familiar with that section of the county and the incidents of the church history throughout his entire life; and the many tradi- tions told in his hearing as a child, verified by repetition in later years, all led him to believe that the antiquity of this old stone church, stand- ing near one of the grandest springs in all the country, on the edge of the Glebe Lands, ante- dated all other churches excepting Opecquon. But we must yield to Dr. Graham's Church His- tory, and have Cedar Creek come in as number 4, though so many things have occurred in the relations between Opecquon and Cedar Creek, that we still hold to the belief that the Opecquon pastor preached at this point. In the very early records of the Old County, may be found a reference to the Meeting House lot near the Big Spring. In Deeds for lands surrounding this place, this language is used in one to define the boundary: "On the south end of the Meeting

House property near the Big Spring." This deed was dated 1736, and recorded in 1745; so we see there was a Meeting House there in 1736. This date corresponds with one tradition, which was, that when the first meeting house was built, it was before there was a Frederick County. The stone church building now in use was the one that was rebuilt since the Civil War, and on the site of the old stone church erected prior to the Revolutionary War. The front was changed. It will be observed this was not the site of the old Meeting House which stood north- west about one hundred yards distant. There is a deed dated 1762, made by Lord Fairfax, in which he conveys 100 acres of land to Wm. Vance, Wm. Evans, James Colville, James Hogg and Andrew Blackburn, elders of the Presby- terian Congregation of Cedar Creek, for the pur- pose of building a meeting house thereon.

The writer recalls many delightful seasons in the history of this church, especially so when Rev Silas Billings was Pastor of the Woodstock Church. He also served this church so accep- tably, that many of the older residents take de- light in recounting incidents of the old Pro- tracted Meetings Mr. Billings often held. It was an ideal place in the Summer months for such services. The fine spring near-by, the rocky cliffs well shaded by the old forest trees, the woodman's axe had spared, all lent a charm to the place; and good cheer came when heavy bas- kets were carried to the many rock-brakes, where natural rock tables were found, to spread the lunch that so bountifully served the many coup- les under the boughs of the oaks. Mr. Billings was not only a good preacher, but renowned for his splendid church music. His voice strong and well trained, was so full of melody of the old time singing, that listeners never grew tired. At those meetings could be seen many people from Round Hill, and the head of Opecquon and other sections. The Hoge family lived in that section at one time, when Rev. John Hoge was pastor of this church. This church is near Marlboro Post Office, in the South end of the county, dis- tant from Winchester about twelve miles.

Tuscarora Church

The author at one time was much concerned in relation to a claim set up by friends of this old church. It was when engaged in working out the history of Old Opecquon, he received a let- ter from a friend, the scholarly writer of "Sketch- es of West Virginia," announcing that he had discovered the point where the Gospel was first preached West of the Blue Ridge, and that the point so found was where the old Tuscarora church stood, arguing that it was one of the

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earliest settlements in the Valley, with many good reasons given to sustain the claim, and referred to Howe's History of Virginia. His "Sketches of Virginia" gives the reader many pleasing incidents; and the Tuscarora incident is one. We give in full what he says: "Many of the early settlers of Berkly County were Scotch-Irish who were Presbyterians," and then adds: "It is said the spot where Tuscarora Meeting House now stands, is the first place where the Gospel was publicly preached and Di- vine Service performed West of the Blue Ridge. This was and still remains a Presbyterian edi- fice." Howe gives no other explanation. He gathered his information in the usual way-from interviews with residents of the sections he vis- ited in 1843. No mention made of county or church records. This presented a question that to be settled in a more authentic way. The rec- ords of the county and church were studied, but revealed nothing to sustain the claim. Old county records refer to church property in 1764. in certain deeds conveying lands on Tus- carora Creek from Beeson and others, one of the recitals being, "The parcel or lot of land for the Meeting House is hereby excepted." It is fair to assume that the meeting house was the old Presbyterian Church, known as Tusca- rora, and has been so regarded in all these years. Old Church records fail to give a word con- cerning Tuscarora until 1760; and here we quote Dr. Graham, who says: "The name of this church does not appear in any existing Ecclesi- astical Record until 1760. This will excite some surprise, as the accepted local tradition is that its existence precedes that date by at least fif- teen, if not twenty years." Dr. G. also says : "Supplications from 1762 until 1771 were made regularly for supplies for Tuscarora at nearly every stated meeting of the Old Donegal Pres- bytery," and that the following ministers were sent as supplies-for a number of years, viz, Messrs. Mc Gann, Roan, Hemmons, Cooper, Craig- head, Alexander, McCreary, Hoge, Balch, Lewis,

Lang, Vance, Thompson, Duffield, and Rhea. For sketches of the pastorates of these ministers, see Dr. Jas. R. Graham's "Planting of Presbyterianism in the Northern Neck." This Church had a large membership when the Winchester Presbytery was organized in 1794. This membership lost much of its strength in after years, as the Mar- tinsburg church grew in strength. The church is one of the country appointments of Rev. Dr. F. M. Woods, Pastor of the Martinsburg Church. The present old stone building was erected about 1811 and is the third building erected at this point.

Back Creek Church

From church records, this is an old church, receiving attention from the old Presbytery at same period that Tuscarora first appears, 1760. It is located in a rich valley about eight miles West of Martinsburg, and about four miles south- west of Hedgesville. The large stone building now in use by this rich and prosperous congre- gation, stands on the West side of the Creek, near the celebrated Tomahawk Spring, and was erected more than a hundred years ago. This church had for its pastors such men as Hoge and Vance. (It was once called Vance's Meet- ing House.) The author has in his possession part of the Diary of "Fithian," a man remark- able for his Evangelistic work among the early churches of Virginia and North Carolina. This diary has been carefully preserved by the fam- ily of Rev. Joseph Glass, who for many years labored in that section. Mr. Fithian was sent out by the Donegal Presbytery to do special work; and being thoughtful enough to keep a diary of his travels, and what churches he vis- ited, his notes can be regarded as reliable and very useful. His Presbytery so regarded it; and from this source the author is aided in these sketches. We give one of his notes in full, to show his brevity and accuracy. This was several years after his first great "Rambles through Virginia and Carolina." "Sunday, June 18, 1775, over the North mountain I rode to Mr. Vance's Meeting House at Back Creek. The Sacrament was administered, Ninety-three com- municants, vast assembly. The North moun- tain is very high, at the top it is almost bare. The view below on each side is rich and beau- tiful, on each side we see ridges of hills, and ridges on ridges still succeed until you cross the Alleghaney."

Ca-Capon Church

Says Dr. Graham, "This Congregation asked the old Presbytery to give them a separate Or- ganization in 1768, and Mr. Hoge was appoint- ed to supply the Forks of Cape Capon." Tradi- tion has it that a Presbyterian church was main- tained at this point, but was abandoned in the early part of the 19th Century; and the member- ship drifted to the Bloomery Church about four miles from the Forks. The Bloomery Church barely exists at this writing.

Falling Waters Church

This old Church has a history very familiar to the Presbyterians of the Lower Valley. For some reason its record places it as the ninth church in point of date to receive recognition

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by the Donegal Presbytery. However, it has such traditionary history as makes it very reason- able that the Irish settlers who were there in 1745, organized a church at what is known as Lower Falls. Old county records show that a large colony of Irish and Scotch immigrants set- tled near the "Ford," on the South side of the Potomac, and were there in 1744, contending for titles to their "preempted lands." Says Dr. Graham, "The name of this church appears for the first time in Church records, April 28, 1762. But the first appearance proves that this church was strong, and had evidently enjoyed minis- trations of the Gospel for a long time; and when Presbytery appointed ministers to give this church attention evidence appears that this con- gregation tendered a liberal support. Mr. Fi- thian says, "In 1775 Mr. Andrew Hunter and myself visited this church-having crossed the Potomac May 19th-on our way from Hagers Town and arrived among Mr. Hunter's rela- tives, and was introduced to Mr. Hunter's Moth- er, sisters and brothers." Mr. Fithian gives this interesting note: "Sunday, May 21 (1775), Mr. Hunter and I preached at Falling Waters Meet- ing House. It stands on the Potomake, is well situated, and I am told is a numerous society. The people gave good attention, sang the Scotch, or as they called them David's Psalms. The congregation is chiefly made up of country Irish and half Scotch, most of them Presbyterians. We dined at one Bowland." The Church records show that the ministers who were preaching at several of the churches heretofore mentioned, were the "Supply" for this church until about 1792. Subsequent to this period, Dr. Graham says the following named ministers were pastors : Jno. B. Hoge, 1811-1822; Jas. M. Brown, 1834; J. E. Woodbridge, 1835-36; Lewis F. Wilson, 1837; Henry C. Brown, 1875-1877; J. H. Gilmore, 1878-89; S. M. Engle, 1891-94; Edward R. Ley- burn, 1895-1902; J. C. Leps, 1902.

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Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia., Part 30

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920 Publication date: 1909 Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.] Number of Pages: 607

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920
Publication date: 1909
Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.]
Number of Pages: 607