Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia., Part 7

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920
Publication date: 1909
Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.]
Number of Pages: 607

USA > Virginia > Frederick County > Frederick County > Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia. > Part 7

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We will now briefly touch upon the develop- ment of the County, as it relates to towns, vil- lages, highways, minerals, etc. As already stated, Romney was the county seat, located in the heart of the County on the eastern bank of the South Branch, forty-three miles distant from Winches- ter, by way of the Northwestern Turnpike. Other towns in the county that started in its early his- tory, were Frankfort, Springfield, Cold Stream Mill (Bloomery in later years ) and Paddy Town- none of which have grown in importance, hin- dered doubtless by the innumerable cross-roads' stores found in every section. In later years, quite a village started at Capon Bridge, where the Northwestern Turnpike crosses Capon River over the wooden-covered bridge. Several stores -one owned by Samuel Cooper-the post office, stage office, shops, etc. made it a village offering inducements to a traveler to stop and rest; and this he was sure to get in the early days at old Mag. Bell's Tavern; still later on, at the delight- ful hotel owned by our old friend John A. Smith, the stage-line man from Winchester to Romney. The traveler would forget his weariness while

PHYSICAL FEATURES OF FREDERICK COUNTY

Mr. Smith recounted his experiences as an old stage driver; in more recent years this Hotel has undergone changes that make it a real home for the guest who stops with Mrs. Smith and her estimable daughters. Many other places of interest along the line of development of this large county could be mentioned. Local histor- ians have covered the ground in this respect; and the author can well afford to trust to their fuller description, and not cumber these pages with what is familiar to many. However, it may be well to make a note of the comparatively new industries. Large veins of Bituminous coal have been found, and are receiving the attention of miners who hope to reap fortunes for themselves and work wonders for the population of that section. Some years ago, Mineral County was formed from the northwestern part of Hampshire and its wealth of ore and coal deposits are fast becoming famous. The Hampshire County Fruit Growers' Association-have for several years en- joyed the distinction of having converted many of the Hampshire hills and mountain tracts of land into a wonderful network of orchards,- where the peach, plum and similar fruit has been produced in abundance. Having thus briefly sketched the outlines of the topography of the first county formed from old Frederick, along with glimpses of its development. We will treat the remaining portion of old Frederick as a whole in the following chapter.

To write an outline of the natural features of The Valley-embraced in old Frederick County, is no light task ;- but to write an intelligent and comprehensive description of the physical fea- tures of this immense territory,-her surface so diversified with river, mountain, valley and glen, is a prodigious task-and the author makes the attempt with misgivings. To many of our read- ers, this part of his work will appear unnecessary -for everything is familiar to their eyes and they have no need to search these pages for a de- scription of the scenes about them. But we must not forget, that if this effort to produce a history of this historic section is even a partial success, we must recognize the fact that these pages will be searched by many readers, more for a descrip- tion of the land than of the men who have develop- ed the resources of the County. So understanding this as a duty imposed on author and reader, an effort will be made to point out and briefly de- scribe many such natural features, presenting the topography of the country-in simplicity of statement. One needs no spur to the imagina- tion, to picture scenes of wonder, as we behold the natural points of interest from some well selected point ; and when this point is found, no

pen can describe the scenes that lie before him in quiet grandeur; nothing short of the talent found in a gifted landscape painter, could do justice to the vision presented to one who may chance to try the summit of Massanuttin, or the cone of the old Round Hill, northwest from Winchester-both presenting views North and South. Is it any wonder then, when one who has no such talent for painting pictures,-find him- self on the summit of the Blue Ridge-looking over the picture that filled the soul of the chiv- alrous Spottswood and his knights of the Gol- den Horseshoe with awe, wonder and gladness,- hesitating for fear of failure, and retiring to his former place in the valley-as those spirited knights and bold Leader returned to their places in Tidewater, to exclaim "Too wonderful to : describe, is that country beyond the mountains !" we who have never known any other place as home but the home our ancestors, located in some de- lightful spot out yonder in the Valley-find pleasure and profit in lingering on this summit of the celebrated Blue Ridge. From this sum- mit can be seen the four grand boundaries of the county-the summit of this Ridge being the dividing line between old Orange and Fairfax, on the East side southward lining up to the summit, are Madison, Rappahannock, Fauquier and Loudoun; these four having been formed from the two first named ;- Loudoun 1757, Madi- son, 1792, Fauquier, 1759, Rappahannock, 1831. Orange and Fairfax are mentioned as the coun- ties from which the present neighboring counties were taken to make them join old Frederick along this summit. It must be remembered that Prince William and Spottsylvania had a claim to this boundary long before Orange and Fair- fax, Madison and Green brings us to the old line between Augusta and Frederick; Loudoun resting on the Potomac, makes the North and East corner of Old Frederick in the vicinity of Harpers Ferry; the river thence westward for the North boundary, with the State of Mary- land to the line of old Hampshire, about 40 miles distant; thence along mountain and stream to form the western line in the distance between Hampshire and Frederick. This chain of moun- tains, sometimes called Big North, Big Sandy, and other misapplied names. Big Timber Ridge being more properly the accepted name, as the divide of waterways that flow East and West- those on the West to Great Capon, and those on the East forming Back Creek flowing into the Potomac many miles away-while on this moun- tain boundary we find the four Knobs, between this point and Paddy Mountain are two coves, one noted for its walled mountains on every side,

CARTMELL'S HISTORY

except the narrow entrance on the North, within which natural enclosure are hundreds of acres utilized by the owners for grazing purposes. The other cove further South is a complete fastness, and affords a home for sturdy hunters, many of whom will be mentioned in another chapter. The county line continuing South along another range of mountains called the Divide, extends to the old Augusta line. This water-shed sending its streams into Cedar Creek and North branch of the Shenandoah. On the West side, the waters find their way from the divide to Lost River.

Having thus given the grand outlines of the old county, we will now locate and describe some of the natural points within these lines, that can be seen from the Blue Ridge summit. Looking southward along this eastern line, the eye takes in a chain of mountains forming the western line of what is known as Page-or Luray valley, extending upwards of forty miles to a point called Swift Run Gap, thence southward, to the Port Republic Battlefield, where we find the Old Augusta line. Keeping now within this line, we have enough in the Page Valley to fill much space. The chain of mountains-has been known to some as the Fort Mountains-to others as the Massanuttin Range; locally it has several names. At its eastern base, flows the South River for about fifty miles. The Blue Ridge Range, forming the eastern line are mountains with many local names,-well known for rich depos- its of mineral ores-some of which have been converted into iron by the prosperous smelting furnaces in that vicinity. This Valley is of rare beauty, with its fertile river bottoms-flowing streams, famous springs and clustered mountains. Following the western side of this valley,-the mountain range seems to have been thrown into great confusion at sometime in their history ;- many groups of high mountains rising from the plain to bewilder beholders. This range of mountains abruptly terminates on the North bank of the Shenandoah where it flows eastward, soon to unite near Front Royal with South River. The Massanuttin and Fort mountains, mean all the mountains in the main valley lying south- east of the North Fork, where it flows down the valley East of Woodstock and Strasburg. Of course this chain has its local names, chief of which must be Massanuttin, as it is seen from every point in the Valley, rising in abrupt grandeur to an altitude of nearly two thousand feet at several points-breaking off to the right and left into strange and peculiar formations presenting a scene that tempts the imagination to fix a cause for this sudden ending of the great range. It may be that in some great upheaval of nature.

the cluster of mountains was formed by the dis- placement of the regular range, and the ponder- ous masses torn from their original lines, were deposited in other places nearby, and thus the change covered a plain with new creations of na- ture-which have become one of the wonders of the Valley. We can easily fall in with this opinion, so often expressed by scientists, and sometimes by amateur geologists, who have at different times studied the formations of the en- tire Valley,-and given as their solution of such natural features and the soil strata of the Valley as it extends northward to the Potomac. The distinct lines are sharply drawn, as we follow the flow of the river and smaller streams-the general formation being Limestone. This lime- stone formation does not extend from the Shen- andoah flowing along the base of the Blue Ridge to the mountain ranges to the West; but, as stat- ed, this surface is broken by the distinct lines mentioned. Following the course northward from the Massanuttin cluster, we find a most singular slate formation; in some places, several miles wide, ending on either side of the Opeckon Hills with the limestone formations; the soil having but little natural fertility. This peculiar feature is found on both sides of the Opeckon Creek, where it flows northward into the Potomac, upwards of forty miles away. A study of this slate formation tempts the searchers to follow this up to the base of its abrupt ending of the mountains. There they discover that the base is of slate formation, while the mass of moun- tains, piled up in such confusion, are of the mountain sandstone and Granite formations, that compose the regular chain which so suddenly terminates at this point. So they have argued, that at some time,-may-be before our Centur- ies began their numbers-the mountain proper was swept from its base-possibly by a remnant of the great flood as its waters receded to the Ocean,-and as they swept forward,-the chain that once rested on the slate base was washed way,-leaving the almost barren slate bed to mark the place where the mountains once ex- tended northward,-leaving Old Massanuttin a solitary sentinel to mark the spot where the floods, and upheavals of nature, changed the for- mations from what they must have been in the dim past-to what they have been for ages. This change caused a gate-way for waters of the Upper Valley to pass out and onward forever, under the brow of this broken mountain. While the grandeur of these mountains impress us, and we stand in admiration as we view their outlines-and the Fort of Nature's own making, and slake our thirst from sylvan streams thread-

PHYSICAL FEATURES OF FREDERICK COUNTY

ing their way through vale and dell,-perhaps we dwell too long on the beautiful picture as we beheld it from our perch on the Blue Moun- tains.

Looking off to the West, we see gleaming in the evening sunlight, many silver threads, as it were, appearing and disappearing among the hills and dales lying between our great boun- daries, until with anxious rapture, we grow im- patient to have an explanation, and with a strong field glass find they are the mountain streams coming on from their distant sources, to form. the swirling river that rushes along at the base of this mountain. The music of its torrents, bursting over its rocky bed, is echoed far up in the mountain; and while the eye feasts upon the transcendent loveliness of the Valley stretching out far away in every direction, the ear feels the effect of the river's song as it rushes on forever; and so, impressed with both, lingers and solilo- quizes, too long perhaps for the reader, who is enquiring about the sections of most interest to himself. Looking again westward and south- ward from the sources of those shining streams -Cedar Creek, coming from the Big Divide, at least thirty miles to its mouth,-Hawks Bill,- North River coming out of the Upper Valley from its source near Staunton, where South River has its source. Trout run is seen in the distance, as a silver thread only at one point, and then emp- ties into upper Cedar Creek. Dry River, with its broken lines, only traceable by the dim outlines now and then, on its course to the river. Nar- row Passage Creek is seen with a strong glass,- but no glass can reveal the lovely stream "Lin- ville Creek" as it flows through Edom Valley,- hidden from view by a range of hills, running not far away from the Big North Mountain, West of New Market. Only a glimpse is seen of the beautiful valley bordering on this stream,-that will ever have a strange interest to the writer; for it was when charging with his Cavalry Bat- talion, the battle line of Stoneman's Cavalry,- that he, with several comrades, were thrown by the shock of battle headlong into this same · stream, and there lay for several hours,-result- ing in an injury felt now after a lapse of forty- five years. Deprived of a glimpse from this summit,-he must be content with the recollec- tions. This digression was not intended-too much reverie!

In looking over those shining streams, the eye falls upon such a multitude of landscapes-that it is difficult to make any selection to touch with the pen, in order to give an idea of the natural topography of the outstretched valley. In the distance we take in the Big North and Capon

Mountains, running in broken lines southward, to form the boundary line on the West ;- passing through the big cove-under the shadow of Paddy Mountain along the meanderings of Cedar Creek, we pass through the lower rim of the Little Cove, out upon a mountain running south- erly to and beyond the Augusta line. Tradition, as given from father to son, has it that Washing- ton surveyed this boundary line, while in the employ of Lord Fairfax prior to 1755. The Acts of the House of Burgesses, enacted a law in 1752, directing a survey to be made "through," to the Augusta line, and define the same by suit- able monuments, etc.,"-thus verifying the state- ment of the mountaineers that the line was run just prior to 1755. This shows their memory good as to dates. May it not be just as good as to who was the surveyor? In this region for miles in length, are to be found the most lofty mountains East of the Alleghany Range. Some of their summits have never been scaled, but in their sides and their base extensive iron work- ers have found it profitable to reduce the rich ores. Large tanneries have used up thous- ands of acres of fine chestnut oak bark found throughout the mountain region. No valley is found of any value between these mountains. Many places of abrupt ending and broken ranges, with independent high mountains,-seemed to have tumbled over and closed some of the valleys at many points; thus forming the Coves-afford- ing good homes for the large game that has al- ways abounded and is much hunted in these parts. Sportsmen recount wonderful stories of their experiences, not only of the chase for the game-but of other strange beings found in such mountain fastness. The mountaineer, in all the primitive style of dress and general living habits. These strange but necessary characters will re- ceive fuller notice in the proper place; for they and their ancestors did their part in the great development of the old county.

While we endeavor to point out some of the mountains in this northwestern section of the county, as found within the boundary line refer- red to,-it is well to state that in the subdivision of Frederick, when Hampshire was formed, and from which Hardy was formed in 1786, Dunmore from Frederick in 1772, a grand corner was es- tablished. In more recent surveys by the County Surveyors of the four counties, when they fixed well defined monuments furnished by each county, planted them on the summit of the "highest point of the group, locally known as the 'Four Knobs.'" This group is often called Capon Mountain, and we may add that residents men-

CARTMELL'S HISTORY

tion it as at the head of the Big Cove, or Vance's Cove,-the name of a family now in this cove,- descendants of one Samuel Vance, who has left through family tradition, graphic accounts of the early days. The old settler along with others of his venturesome spirit knew of several In- dian battles and massacres. From this group of high points, can be seen many other mountains- such as the "Three High Heads,"- Tea Moun- tain-and "Cupola Mountain" of rare grandeur. As already stated, their summits are but little troubled by lumbermen. Fairly good, rough wag- on roads have made these places accessible, through the combined efforts of the furnace men, tannery and Lumbermen, the Iron furnaces, known as the Vanburen & Newman furnaces, are found in this rich ore belt, (idle at this time). Much of the brown Hematite ore is

found, and one mountain, the Cupola-has been distinguished among this extensive group-as the "Manganese mountain," many predictions are made of what this mountain and ore belt will yield when the long expected occurs-the rail- road that must come some day from the Coal Fields of West Virginia to this mountain coun- try and thence to the Virginia Seaboard. The area comprised within the mountains referred to in the western part of Shenandoah County extend- ing far up the valley is an agricultural belt, al- though broken by ridges and hills-having local names. This belt is noted for its extensive river plantations, studding the north branch of the Shenandoah on either side with splendid homes. Much wealth abounds, and the country is in a high state of cultivation.

CHAPTER VII Topography of Old Frederick North of the Line Between Shenandoah and Frederick

The lower or northern portion of the old County, is void of the mountain grandeur found throughout the upper portion briefly treated in the last Chapter; and this being so evident from a glance at the territory towards the North, we deem it best to describe it briefly in a separate Chapter. The reader must not be deceived by the intimation given, that no landscape beauty presents itself as the undulating section rolling off to the Potomac is viewed from the same summit of the Blue Ridge; for while we miss the great range of mountains to the South, and northwest of this point, and the groups of lofty and unscaled tops of those gigantic sentinels-we still have suffi- cient mountain scenery along the western border, to attract the beholder. For in that steadfast, unbroken range of the Big North unbroken, in so far that no independent mountains appear along this range, the seeming impenetrable fastness is broken in several places by the waterways that drain the contiguous sections-these breaks, or Gaps, as they are commonly called, afford an outlet for nature that her gushing springs de- mand,-as their individual rivulets wind through hill and dale to mingle with similar outpourings, forming bold streams, to rush on through the defiles of that apparently impenetrable mass "THE Big North" it must be remembered is not a dividing line all along the western border, the line going South along its summit at a point just East of Capon Springs; then following the divide to the corner of the four counties men- tioned in the last chapter. The line running South from the summit on the Big North follows this summit for several miles, then leaving it to run eastwardly over the High Knobs, crossing Paddy's Creek twice before it first touches Cedar Creek at a point one mile southwest from Star Tannery, then taking the boundary of western Shenandoah, going southwardly within the angle formed in The Cove, within which is found the "Half Moon Mountains," and Paddy's Range with its High peaks and corners, East of Capon Springs, the line falls away abruptly, crossing the head spring streams of Back Creek-to find the water- shed along the summit of Big Timber Ridge for a few miles, to Little Timber Ridge, leaving it

at a point near, Acorn Hill P. O., then in a straight line over Big and Little Sandy Ridges through to the old Berkley line (Morgan), on to the Potomac, the old northern boundary. Flowing along the western base of the Big North is Back Creek; and of a truth it is a back creek -hidden from view for miles-hemmed in on one side by the rock-ribbed mountain, on the other by hills of many names-the foot hills, as it were, of Big Timber Ridge. To see this moun- tain stream in all its natural attractions, one must follow its bed for about ten miles over the public highway leading from Capon Springs, by Rock Enon, out into Back Creek Valley, where the Northwestern Turnpike Crosses this creek eleven miles from Winchester. The public road, in following this creek until recent years, crossed and re-crossed it seventeen times in traveling this nine miles. Its clear water and rocky fords, gave the stream a peculiar interest to the many persons coming from crowded cities, seeking the celebrated mountain resorts found in this section. West of this creek and tributary to the same watershed, are Isaacs, Sleepy, and Brush Creeks. They flow through Timber Ridge-a queer forma- tion in many places. Sandy soil seems to be the character of a large area between the North Moun- tain and the Capon Range,-suddenly running into blue and yellow slate formations, giving a sur- face soil for cultivation, far superior in many respects to other slate surfaces found in the eastern part of the county. Suddenly the blue and grey Limestone ridges crop out, with a soil similar to Limestone regions. Then, again, ap- pears a red sandy loam-known as Red-lands,- distinguishing it from all other sections. Sturdy and prosperous people have for many years oc- cupied and tilled this fertile section. Around and in full view of Red-lands, are groups of moun- tains off to the North and West, that have much local history. It was through this section that Braddock, Washington, Morgan and others march- ed, who were identified with the French and Indian Wars, and roadways made and cut -by the soldiers of their respective commands, have kept their individuality to this day. No modern en- gineer ever felt he could improve a plan mapped

CARTMELL'S HISTORY

out by young Washington. Tradition gives many interesting incidents of those marchings, and road-makings, some of which are fully sus- tained by our old records.

Having followed the western boundary to the point where we joined Maryland, we follow the Potomac River to Harper's Ferry. From Har- pers Ferry, we follow the summit of the Blue Ridge to the point where the two counties of Augusta and Frederick cut the Valley in twain. As their boundary line was established, the line from Harpers Ferry southward was the eastern line of all this territory. To the East of this line are the subdivisions of the older counties al- ready mentioned.

We will now point and locate some of the most prominent natural features of the old County, seen plainly in some instances, and dimly in others, from the same point on the Blue Ridge; Kercheval, in his description of the surface of the old county-says, "That from two points on the Blue Ridge-the observer can see Harpers Ferry-all of the northern boundary, nearly all of the western and southern boundaries, and the chief features distinguishing one locality from the other, and thus have a good understanding of the geography of the country, without visiting the various sections, and that was proven by his personal visits to every section embraced within the boundaries." The writer has enjoyed the same experience. Some interesting features seen from the points referred to, are the Gaps in the Blue Ridge, as they are commonly called. The first to the South is known as Swift Run Gap. Other gaps appear, but of not much importance, until we reach the region of Chesters, Thorough- fare, and Ashby's Gaps in the vicinity of Front Royal. At these points, we find mountain roads leading over and beyond, to Rappahannock and Fauquier Counties. "Happy Creek" has found its way through the Ashby's-Bent Pass, and was once the scene of the bivouac of great armies- as well as fierce struggles at other times between contending factions. The remembrance of those incidents, forced the writer to conclude that its name should be changed; but a glimpse at the peaceful homes seen along its way, changed the impression; and doubtless it is best to let this stream retain its name for the distance it flows, on its happy way through this gorge in the moun- tains, to be swallowed in the river. The next Gap of importance is Berry's Ferry Gap, afford- ing a road-way through the Blue Ridge to enter Fauquier County. On the summit of the pass, al- most in touch is the "Big Poplar," the corner of the four counties-Loudoun and Fauquier on the East side, and Clarke and Warren on the West.

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Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia., Part 7

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920 Publication date: 1909 Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.] Number of Pages: 607

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920
Publication date: 1909
Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.]
Number of Pages: 607