Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia., Part 49

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920
Publication date: 1909
Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.]
Number of Pages: 607

USA > Virginia > Frederick County > Frederick County > Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia. > Part 49

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New Market, as seen to-day a short distance West of Old Chapel, shows woeful decay. This was once a famous Colonial homestead of the Burwell family. Inscriptions on many tombs at Old Chapel connect it with the families who lived at the quaint old place, which appears to the modern eye as never possessing attractive features, unless we except the surrounding land- scape. The building was made of logs from the forests nearby, immense in dimensions. The place is barely habitable, owing to its long use by persons holding short leases.

Tulyries. This magnificent property is not one of the Colonial homesteads, though it has become familiar to many readers of magazine articles as such; nor can we give it place as one of the few

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notable edifices established in that part of Old Frederick in the latter part of the 18th Century; but it has been one of the landmarks of that sec- tion so long, that we will mention it in connec- tion with those above named. The present owner of this princely estate, Mr. Graham Blandy, found it several years since with neglect and decay destroying the once attractive environments of the mansion; while the great building itself need- ed skill, taste and money to reclaim it from ruin; and its present appearance shows no radical changes from the original plans and designs, while the transformation is wonderful. The gen- tleman who has produced it, is to be congratu- lated for preserving the type in vogue in the early part of the 19th Century. The original Tulyries was familiar to the writer while Col. Joseph Tuley, the founder, enjoyed it in all its grandeur. The Colonel was an immensely rich man as re- garded in that day, and delighted in his position as a Virginia gentleman, though he was not to the manor born. Coming from New Jersey with his father, they together amassed a fortune. Kercheval, who wrote of this place in 1833, says : "Col. Tuly has just built a fine brick house on his beautiful farm near Millwood which he has named Tulyries." When the writer was familiar with the old homestead, the splendid mansion, with its imposing portico supported by pillars about thirty feet high, marble slabs for floors and steps, was not the most attractive feature to him. The Park enclosed with stone walls, where herds of elk and deer roamed the forest, while the great oak and walnut trees were alive with squirrels. Col. Tuly was a large slave- holder; and thus was able to maintain all the attractive features of this magnificent estate. But the writer saw the time when the slaves were no more; the founder in his grave, and others on the ground, but helpless by reason of changed conditions to maintain the dignity of old Tuly- ries. The property descended in part to Col. Uriel Wright his son-in-law, who came from St. Louis after the Civil War, where he and U. L. Boyce dispensed liberal hospitality for many years.

Annefield, about two miles N. E. from Old Chappel, now the home of Mr. Edward Gay But- ler, is of the Colonial type pure and simple, that is stamped with the features of ye olden time. This "great house," as it was known in that period, built of blue limestone, forty feet square, with capacious halls, staircases, large rooms with lofty ceilings, heavily carved wood-work finishings, singles out this place as one of note. This is and has been often pointed out as the home of "King" Carter. As is well known, Rob- ert Carter of James City County, Virginia, held

a grant for a large area of country on both sides of the Blue Ridge. He himself is not traceable in any way for residence in the new country. It was his son Robert, who came at an early day and virtually covered the country from the Opec- quon to the River as assignee of his father King Carter; and it was he who settled and founded the Annefield and New Market places,-princi- pally the former, and for several years acted as agent for Lord Fairfax. Holding a power of attorney, he was enabled to create a number of leases, and more than once did he contest the claims of other settlers. He was succeeded by William Fairfax as agent for Sir Thomas. The Carter, Burwell and Randolph families had in- termarried, and members of the family inter- changeably held and occupied the places referred to and also the homesteads near the Chapel known as Chapel Green. Mr. Philip C. Burwell was the last of the name who lived there. This he had by deed from Nathaniel Burwell of Carter Hall, dated 1804. The conveyance embraces 814 acres, together with thirty-four negroes and horses, cat- tle, etc., belonging to the Chapel Green Home- stead. This is now the home of Madison Hite Baker and sister.

Federal Hill has been too prominent to pass by without a brief notice. It was established prior to the Revolutionary War by Samuel Baker the agent and attorney in fact of Col. Nathaniel Burwell of James City County, Va. Succeeding him, were three generations of the Baker fam- ily,-the last being Major Alexander Baker. The building was of that unpretentious character that has escaped notice of those seeking Colonial man- sions. The old log structure was in good repair when last seen by the author. At one time the walls were covered with what is now called peb- ble finish ;- then it was known as rough-cast style-coarse sand and lime plastered over the entire building, after the walls had been lathed. Such finish made attractive exteriors, and very cool houses in Summer. This style preserved the old log-houses erected by early settlers. Fed- eral Hill can be seen near Stone Bridge in Clarke County.

Guilford near Stone Bridge (now in Clarke Co.) was the home of James Madison Hite son of Major Isaac Hite of Bell Grove, and famous for many years for its handsome appointments. While it was not Colonial, it had the attractive style adopted by men of wealth in latter part of the 18th Century. Mr. Hite was a man of amole riches, and his natural taste led him to erect tl.e. handsome homestead on such lines that its beauty was marvellous. The writer often heard in his: boyhood days, how the gentry were entertained

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at Guilford. The exact date cannot be given when the mansion was built, but it was prior to 1820. It was once the home of the Ashby family.

While observing many interesting features be- longing to the two homesteads Federal Hill and Guilford, the stone-bridge feature was peculiar. For many years, the two homesteads had been sep- arated by an impassable chasm. Though the families were closely allied by marriage; they were compelled to traverse a long, rough route in their daily visits. The two owners at last de- vised a plan to bridge the barrier that nature had placed between them: This was that each should employ his slaves in utilizing the vast piles and ledges of limestone and hurling the great blue rocks into the yawning gulch, and so in time meet each other midway. Tradition has it that much rivalry existed between the work- ing negroes,-each party excited by a desire to reach mid-stream first. After several years of such work, the stone bridge as now seen was finished, and as Major Baker told the writer, visiting between the families was much enjoyed by the younger members, he being one. From his home over the bridge to Mr. Hite's mansion Guilford, he one day went to claim his bride, Miss Caroline M. Hite.

Mountain View, for many years the well known home of Bishop Meade, passed from his estate to one of the Baldwins, then to Mr. Jos. M. Barton of near Bartonsville, and from him to its present owner, Wm. Powers, Esq.

Wheatland the home of Mr. Joseph A. Miller, was established in the early part of the 19th Century by Maj. Seth Mason. His son J. Wil- liam Mason and his accomplished wife who was Miss Martha Cook daughter of Wm. Cook, for many years dispensed such hospitalities, that the fame of Wheatland was known to many. The writer knew the highly cultured family when nothing but joy and prosperity crowned the splen- did home. He also knew it when war devastated and spoiled the beauty of the former Wheatland; and when the family reunited and endeavored to meet the struggles of the new life, the same re- finement and culture was there, but the ability to meet the changed conditions was weakened; and the sad day came when the hospitable home was turned over to others. This estate can be seen on the Front Royal turnpike North of Nin- eveh, where under the good care of Mr. Miller and his highly esteemed family, friends still en- joy Virginia hospitality.

Highlands, for many years the home of Dr. Oliver R. Funsten, now owned by Mr. Thos. S. Chamblin, situated North of Wheatland, was

regarded as one of the finest estates established early in the 19th Century. All that was needed for a Virginia homestead could be seen-superb plantation, grand scenery, solid buildings, exten- sive lawns, and imposing surroundings, marked it as the home of the old-time Virginia gentle- man. The Reconstruction period meant much to such places. Mr. Chamblin and his family have revived the drooping appearance of the old home; and, as seen to-day, it gives the impres- sion that ease and comfort reign within its walls, while prosperity is seen in the broad rich acres. This and Mr. Miller's homestead are near the dividing line of Frederick and Clarke.

We must here fall back again to Frederick and briefly mention other places prominent after the Revolutionary period.

Belle Grove. This historic homestead was design- ed by Major Isaac Hite, Jr. and his young bride Nelly Conway Madison, sister of President Mad- ison, while they occupied the original Hite build- ing called in some deeds "Hite Hall" and often "Old Hall." The site was well chosen, command- ing a perfect view of all the mountain scenery fringing the border of the Lower Valley. The prospective mansion was to spring as if by magic hands up among the virgin oaks of wonderful size. It was a dream to the happy young people. Their plans were so stupendous that several years passed before they could see their completion. When the Spring of 1793 came, they announced to friends far and near, that the dream had been fulfilled, and all must come and see the former belle in a grove of her choice; and from that announcement, the name of the princely establish- ment was forever settled; and since that eventful day, the regal home has known no other name than Belle Grove. Very briefly the dimensions are given to render some idea to the reader what the guests beheld: The structure, of pure lime- stone hewn with minute precision, 160 feet in length and forty feet in breadth, had four por- ticoes, with pillars of such pattern and size as to excite wonder over their origin. The many or- namental blocks of marble filling their respective positions, were curious. Major Hite had drawn upon every quarry in the land to furnish the finishings. Family tradition helps our descrip- tion of the interior: We can only mention in an irregular way what was seen by guests who have left written descriptions which are well preserv- ed by members of the family: The furniture was mahogany inlaid with satin wood imported from England; the "side-boards" and sofas were heavy with hand-carving in exquisite style and figure; solid mahogany "table-board"-as the great dining-tables were called-were large enough to seat sixty guests; the rare oil paint-

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ings, hung so profusely on the walls, occasioned comment which, to read the quaint descriptions now, causes surprise. Visitors to Belle Grove subsequent to the death of the beautiful woman who had planned the palatial homestead, found Major Hite's second wife, Anne Tunstall Maury, whom he married Dec. 1, 1803-less than one year after his attractive Nelly had died-fully installed as mistress of the splendid home; and her life proved her fitness for the responsible position. Extended sketches of the Hite family show who her numerous descendants were; some of whom related to the writer the tender regard she always had for one of the oil paintings that occupied a conspicuous place in the drawing- room. This was the portrait of Major Hite and Nelly his wife and their son. Other fine paint- ings adorned the walls in the latter days of Major Hite. He prized highly one of Thomas Jeffer- son, and one of Dolly Madison wife of President Madison, who had been a frequent visitor to Belle Grove. Maj. Hite died in 1836; his wife survived him until Jany. 6, 1851. After her death, the famous furnishings of this noted place were distributed among such of her descendants as cared to possess them. Some of the paintings were lost. The large landed estate had been sub- divided among the children; and the remnant of several hundred acres with the bare mansion, passed into the hands of strangers. Mr. J. Wil- son Smellie, a Scotchman, is the present owner, having purchased it in 1874.

The celebrated Battle of Cedar Creek centered around this place; and Genl. Sheridan had his headquarters there for a few hours.

Belle View, now the home of Dr. Samuel Mc- Cune, was once part of the Belle Grove tract. Hugh H. Hite son of Major Isaac Hite, settled there and made it his home for many years. This estate changed hands several times. Solomon Heater sold it to the present owner in 1867. Genl. Custer's celebrated Division of Cavalry camped on this farm in the Autumn of 1864. Want of space forbids further mention of the other well known subdivisions of the Belle Grove grant, which embraced at one time at least eight thous- and acres of land lying in every direction around Middletown.

The Meadows was once a notable estate on the Opecquon, and became more so after it passed into the Magill family. The boundaries extended from the Opecquon far South, taking in several tracts of land that have become prominent farms. The large brick mansion house occupied by Mr. John S. Magill for many years, was chiefly the work of Col. Charles Magill in his lifetime. His death in 1827 found the buildings unfinished.

Later on, John S. Magill was ambitious to adorn the great structure and have it compare with other noted homesteads. The large interior, how- ever, was never finished according to his plan ;- the death of his young daughter and subsequent- ly his wife (who was Miss Mary Ann Glass) going down in the bloom of her splendid woman- hood, changed all of Mr. Magill's plans; and the old place that Col. Charles Magill had named "Gillhall" never arose to the distinction he in- tended. The old house, from some defect, grew unsafe in recent years, but has been properly repaired by its present owner, Dudley L. Miller Esq. The large estate was purchased by Aaron Bright about 1870, who came from Pennsylvania with ample means and a large family, and for twenty-five years kept the farm up to a high standard. Mr. Bright was highly esteemed. One of his daughters, Mrs. Grove, is the only one of the large family that has any part of the old place. She and her husband have one of the sub-divisions.

Carter Hall the handsome property South of the Magill estate, now owned by B. M. Carter and wife, was the home for many years of Wm. A. Carter its founder. The splendid residence was erected in 1833, and with the thirteen hun- dred acres of fine land, made this an estate equal to any in the County. In the division of the estate between eight children, the mansion-house tract became the property of B. M. and Geo. H. Carter, subject to the dower of their mother, by whose remarkable ability and their energy, Car- ter Hall recovered from the waste and destruc- tion wantonly made by Federal troops.

The old Rust property, a large brick house South of the Carter homestead, was erected about 100 years ago, and was celebrated in its day for old time Virginia hospitality. It was a large plan- tation. Within the last twenty years it has passed to other farmers of that vicinity. Dudley L. Miller and David Miller, relatives of the family, purchased the mansion-house part.

Other old places in this section, found on the road to Marlbo, where well known families lived in the early days, have long since changed owners, and old landmarks gradually disappeared. Leav- ing this section, going West, we find one place in the vicinity of St. Paul's Church, an old home- stead noted for its antiqueness. This for nearly a century was known as the Bengie Fry place.

Buffalo Marsh has often appeared in the old records as the home of more than one old family. This occasioned considerable confusion. Only one estate was entitled to the name. This was for many years mentioned as the Baldwin estate. The name was applied by old settlers to a marshy

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district constantly supplied with great springs. The marsh was slightly impregnated with salt, and was a famous resort for buffalo that roamed through the Lower Valley during the 18th Cen- tury. The old Miller homestead was once called Buffalo Marsh. Joseph Miller the pioneer set- tled first in this section, and his large family owned splendid homesteads. But what became the Miller homestead of the section, has for many years been the property of D. L. Miller Esq., where he made his home until his removal to his present residence at Stephens City. Mr. Thomas C. Miller, son of the pioneer, and father of D. L. Miller, also lived there during his entire life; his father Joseph coming from Maryland just prior to 1800, laid the foundation for the old home, which was famous for its hospitality during the period when Mr. Thos. C. Miller's family of four sons was unbroken.

Deerfield known in early days as the Ash home- stead, was one of a number of old settlements found on what has been long termed the Middle Road, terminating at Old Forge. Franklin Ash was the founder; and as the writer was informed many years ago by Mr. Alec. Newman a very old man, he and his brother Hiram, only surviv- ing male members of that once large family who lived in that section. The homestead was one of the Colonials; and when he was a boy, the plantation swarmed with negro slaves. Mr. New- man was a pensioner of the War of 1812. Deer- field is now the home of Mr. Harvey A. Richard. The writer while gathering material for this vol- ume, visited the delightful home Deerfield; and while scarcely a vestige of the old buildings re- main, the old time Virginia hospitality has not disappeared in the new order of things. Mr. Richard became the owner in 1878-the first time to leave the Ash family. The old log-house was occupied by his family until he was able to erect the handsome property now situated on the old site. The old logs, when removed, were found well preserved ;- many of them can be seen now on the place. Mr. Richard told the writer many interesting incidents concerning the change, and exhibited a veritable curiosity that he found 'neath the old cellar foundation-a large bone about thirteen inches long, perfectly preserved, and evidently that of some human being of that early day. The words "Nig Bone 1754" plainly written in black, gives it place among the curi- ous finds. The writing is of very durable color. Mr. R. feels sure that it has some interesting history. The writing was there when he un- earthed it.

Deerfield farm at this writing contains 110 acres of rich land; and with its fine culture, pre- sents an attractive feature. The home is presided

over by a lineal descendant of the first settlers, she being daughter of Samuel Rust, son of Thom- as on one side, and the granddaughter of Capt. Jos- eph Long. Mr. and Mrs. Richard are in the prime of life and derive real enjoyment from their possessions,-their children being one of their chief joys, whose names are Joseph T., Chas. A., Mary E., Rosa B., and Harvey A. Jr.

The District School building within sight, bears the name of Deerfield School. Old Forge is dis- tant about 1-1/2 miles S. W.

The writer in traveling over the road to this point, was impressed by the marvellous changes going on. When he recalls the lonely stretches on the old road before the War-for instance, from Huck's Mill to this point, only three houses were on the roadside, the first being the Barley place, then the Geo. T. Massie, and John W. Ridings. Now the same roadside is lined with homes of every style-two churches, the hand- some M. E. Church at the junction of the old Newtown road, and Sunrise Chapel (U. B.) partly hidden by a grove of oaks-the feeling comes with strong force that we have evidence all around to prove that the period embraced in the last thirty years, surpasses any three decades in the history of this section of old Frederick.

On the Cedar Creek turnpike leading from Opecquon Creek to Cedar Creek, are a few places that retain their early features. This section was well known in the early part of the 19th Century for its historic homesteads. Nearly all have un- dergone such modern changes, that the originals are about forgotten. We will mention several to save them from oblivion.

Paxton, which has been the property of John Buncutter and wife, now dead, for about fifty years, was owned by Genl. James Singleton who lived there for many years with his large family. Paxton the large stone building was erected by him about 1814. Genl. Singleton removed to Winchester just prior to his death which occurred in 1828. The property continued in the name for several years after. The house was in an unfin- ished state when the writer saw it in 1850. The building then was regarded as an old place. Mr. Buncutter did what was necessary to make the old stone structure a comfortable home.

For several miles immediately South of Pax- ton were several old homes in good repair until about 1850. One was the Lukens place now owned by heirs of Jacob R. Crabill deceased and others. The original building was pointed out to the writer when a boy, as being the home of "Lazy Lawrence." This term was applied to the owner who was famous for his desire to hail all persons passing his way, and endeavor to have them spend an hour under the shade of the oaks,

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and give him the news. This habit became so annoying, that persons shunned the road that led by his house; and it was a common saying that "Lazy Lawrence was in the air." And to this day, we often hear it repeated when the first hot Springtime sun falls across our pathway.

"The Snapp Neighborhood" had its origin in

a settlement made by Henry Snapp on a grant by Lord Fairfax about 1750. This grant was for a full century occupied by sons, sons-in-law, and two brothers of the old settler. Large families have come and gone, distinguished for their thrift and good citizenship. One of the descendants, Mr. John A. R. Snapp, has his home at the old homestead.

CHAPTER LI Homesteads of Frederick County

The Glebe, often called the Glade, was a cele- brated tract of land lying on the West side of the old Cartmell and Froman roads. One part of it is now owned by Mr. Andrew Brumback. This tract occasioned much trouble. When the first Vestry was formed in Frederick County, a certain survey was designated as the Glebe land, to be known as the property of the Established Church (Episcopal). All revenues to be for the use of the Vestry towards the "living of the Minister." In 1754, Nathaniel Carr obtained a grant from Fairfax, and located where the old Pitman property is now seen. Later on he built a house where Mr. Jacob Brumback now lives. Carr's grant lapped over into the Glebe. He and the vestry compromised, Carr paying a nominal rent, and was virtually owner. He sold a portion of his grant and included part of the Glebe, to Peter Gilham in 1777. At this time the Vestry was so demoralized by changed conditions in their Church, brought about by the war then in progress, that the tenants were forgotten; and the Glebe was regarded for many years as the property of Gilham's estate. Titles to the Glebe tract were disputed for many years. Col. Carr, as he was called, retained over 1200 acres of land at a cost of one dollar per acre. Several well- known homesteads were formed from this tract.

The Old Quaker School House property was famous in the olden time. Martin Cartmell set aside five acres of his land for this purpose in 1748. This grove of majestic oaks made this a land-mark for a century. A spot West of the Old School House was chosen for a graveyard; and this is where a number of the old Cartmells were buried until 1841. Nothing to mark a single grave. Long since the burial plot was filled by other families, the Carr, Longacre, Funkhouser, Fawcett, Snapp, etc., being of the number. The original five acres has been mysteriously reduced in size. The writer has never been able to find any trace of a conveyance from trustees or others to any coterminous owner. Doubtless gradual encroachments account for the depletion. The writer has always had a tender regard for the Old Quaker School House Graveyard. The last of the "Homespun" Cartmells to go there was Martin Cartmell, a great uncle. His son Thomas

K. Cartmell had preceded him by one year. He requested his name be given the writer at his birth, 1838, and, as his namesake and kinsman, he has repeatedly tried to locate the graves. This is a sad commentary on the lives of the ances- tors. With all the vast property they owned, not one felt the need of preserving this important bit of history! Quite a number of marble slabs dot the old graveyard; but none are more than 50 years old, the oldest legible inscription being that of Isaac Watson Longacre, born 1793, died 1860. Robert Stephenson died 1864, aged 72 years; Anthony Funkhouser 1796-1871. The Fawcett family is largely in evidence. Doubtless old hidden graves contain the dust of prominent ancestors of this family, who were among the first settlers in this section. It is well known that the old families of Carr, Gilham, Baylis, and Sexton gave up many of their number to take the long sleep in the old place. Quite a number of old graves have stone markings, but no in- scription to tell who they were. The old school- house erected in the Colonial period has disap- peared, and the site has been added to the grave- yard proper. It is gratifying to see the grounds under good care and attention. The graveyard now enclosed comprises about one acre, while the old grove of 1-1/2 acres protected by wire fence, makes a long and attractive front entrance to the sacred place up on the hillock to the West. North of this point and in sight on same side of the pike, is Mt. Zion U. B. Church, erected several years before the Civil War. To the East- ward is a fine scope of country running North from the Glebe lands, embracing the splendid farms now the property of the estates of Jos. P. Richard, Joshua Lupton and Joseph O. Bywaters, deceased, and the farm of Henry C. Glaize. This large tract was for many years called the Snapp Property, but was not part of the Snapp-Fairfax grant. Where Mr. Bywaters lived, there was an old house erected by the Gordon family about 1740. This family had litigation with Fairfax; they based their claim upon the so-called Toma- hawk right. The boundary lines were marked by girdled trees; and they stood upon the claim that they had come to this country at the instance of a promulgation from the English Crown, that such settlers could thus secure titles. Investi-

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Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia., Part 49

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920 Publication date: 1909 Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.] Number of Pages: 607

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920
Publication date: 1909
Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.]
Number of Pages: 607