Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia., Part 8

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920
Publication date: 1909
Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.]
Number of Pages: 607

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This point is on a TABLE LAND stretching far to the North and South. Approaching from either side, the first impression made-is, that we are not at the summit of a mountain-but on the ridge of some elevated plain-for around on every side are farms, and the grazing lands for which this section is famous. But gradually impression changes-as we gaze around toward every point of the compass-the great Piedmont Country, stretching out to the East, the nearby eastern slopes revealing many villages-partly hidden by the broken hills of forest glens-yet we can locate Upperville, Paris, Middleburg, Leesburg, Aldie, and other well known towns: Looking to the West and North, we have a com- prehensive view of the great Valley of Virginia. The effect of the altitude is soon felt. While not great, it is sufficient to give a commanding view embracing many counties, with their splen- did population. Following the line of vision along this Ridge are the passes or gaps. Off to the North the first of importance is Snickers Ferry Gap, now commonly called Castleman's Ferry Gap-so named from the Ferry over the Shenan- doah, 151/2 miles from Winchester. The pass then leads on through many defiles, and over the mountain benches-until finally we emerge on to high and extended plains-the traveller has to be told that he has attained the summit of another point on this Ridge-five and a half miles of climb- ing from the Ferry. Here again he beholds the country on either side. Many changes appear along this route over the mountain. The de- mands of progress required the removal of the historic Ferryboat, and in its stead the river is crossed at this point on the modern Steel Bridge, erected in 1904-5. On the summit the U. S. Government has taken advantage of this conspi- cuous elevation, and erected during the last five years suitable buildings for the Weather Bureau's Signal Station. South from the road-way can be seen the Bluemont Hotel, of considerable at- tractions to guests in summer months. At the eastern base of the mountain where the road descends to Loudoun County, is the Village of Bluemont, (formerly Snickersville), terminal of the Washington and Ohio Railroad, (Old Lou- doun and Hampshire). No other gaps appear to the North, of sufficient importance to notice here until we arrive at Harper's Ferry, the point of confluence of the two Rivers, one flowing from the West, draining the Allegany Ranges-the other from the South hugging the base of the Blue Ridge in its course, draining the Upper Valley. Both of these rivers in their approach to this confluence, as might be supposed, become rugged mountain rivers, coming as they do from

TOPOGRAPHY OF OLD FREDERICK

opposite directions, gathering their forces from mountain and glen-draining a vast area. It might be supposed they would become deep, navigable streams at their exit from such a great valley. Not so, however. They grow broader and more turbulent as they approach each other for the final struggle for an outlet through the mountains. These approaches are over the rock- ribbed channels forming through the Centuries. The blue limestone formations of both the upper and lower stratas of this region offer impregna- ble barriers to navigation-especially is this true of the river coming from the South. In its ap- proach to this Gap, the bed of the river at low water, reveals a picture of the under strata of this section wonderful to behold-ledges, tables, cones and piles of huge limestone formations pro- jecting themselves through the splashing, surging, tumbling torrents, forming wonders of crea- tion only to be found in the ending of the Shen- andoah. While no attempt has ever been made to convert this river into a navigable stream to suit modern times, the author remembers dis- tinctly-when the old log rafts found their way from the Upper Valley in times of high water, loaded with products of that section, to find the markets of Georgetown and Alexandria. Some day, however, the raft with all its cargo, would go to pieces by accidentally colliding with some submerged reef. The hopes of the owners were dashed to ruin; and the swirl of waters some- times swallowed up members of the venturesome crew. These rivers, now familiarly known as the Potomac and Shenandoah, seem to have had many struggles in establishing their names. For many years the Potomac was known from this point westward as the Cohongoroota, as the continuation of the "Quiriough," alias "Powtow- mack,"-to the Head Springs in the Alleghaney Mountains (see Colonial Statutes 1736), receiv- ing in its flow through the mountains the waters of "Wappacomo," the Indian name of the South branch. The name was used in the Colonial statutes, long before Fairfax raised his conten- tion with Maryland regarding the boundary of his Grant, Maryland holding that Wappacomo, was the Cohongoroota; Fairfax holding, as did the Colonial Government, that the Wappacomo was the South branch of the Cohongoroota '(Po- tomac), River which extended nearly due West to its source in the mountains beyond Cumber- land. This stream was sometimes designated the North branch of Potomack. Diligent search of old statutes,-and a full review of Reports made to the Colonial Assembly,-as well as those sub- sequently made up to 1832, establishes fully that the North Branch, so called, was and has be-

come the Potomac proper; the name Cohongoru- ton and Cohongoruta often appears in this connec- tion. During all these contentions, the river from Harper's Ferry running eastward, bore many names which, though queer, seem prefer- able to the Indian name Quiriough-and thus we have Pawtaw-mak, Pot-O-Make, Po-co-moke, Po-to-Moke, Pot-ow-moke,-and several others too numerous to mention. Why these odd names should be used by the Crown or the Colonial gov- ernment to distinguish the historic stream we know not. All must have been happy when all contestants settled down to Potomac, as the name to dignify the far-famed river, on its way from mountain to Sea-gathering from its tribu- taries a force of waters sufficient to float many Navies,-and a water-way for commerce from Washington to the sea-board. The "Sherando" also had its share of names. For instance-Ger- ando-Gerundo, Shendo, Sherundo Shennandow- at last we find the euphonious Shenandoah. This Indian name, according to traditions, had its origin with the old Iroquois tribe when they held sway in the celebrated Hunting Grounds. A thrilling story is told of war between "Opeck- enough" and the Iroquois chief "Gherundo." The former, in one of his annual forays for game, found a small band of warriors West of the mountains, who proved to be part of the Iro- quois tribe. After the hunt was over, Opeck- enough returned to his villages on the Chicka- hominy below Williamsburg, but left his son Shee-Wa-a-Nee and a band of warriors to watch the hunting grounds. It was not long until the main body of the Iroquois returned and gave battle, and Gherundo drove the chief East of the mountains. Opeckenough left the lowlands as soon as he was informed by runners, and within a few days he came with a large force and fell upon Gherundo in great fury; defeated and drove him from his Sherando, never to return from his home on the New York Lakes. Shee-Wa-a- nee was left again in charge; and from that day the Shawnee Tribe held the Sherando Valley until driven out by white settlers. The pioneers found the Shaw-a-nese tribe clinging to the Opeckenough name for the Creek that has be- come famous. The tragic ending of the old blind Chief in his "Lowlands" is matter for gen- eral history. Having traced the rivers from their sources to their confluence, we should give some special notice to their exit from the Shenandoah Valley. As the new stream the Potomac, mages- tically sweeps through this gap-made in the world's history by the pent up waters of the great Valley lying South and West; looking up from the river side to the jagged ends of the

CARTMELL'S HISTORY

broken mountains, the head grows dizzy in the effort to take in the points of interest. Fully 1200 feet above this point on the river-looking to the North or South, are beheld many objects that have attracted thousands, as they were suddenly confronted with this grand creation of nature. Many points of view present themselves, -from which the sublimity of the scenery stands out so prominently; one or two are conspicuous above all others. From the Maryland side of the river a stupendous rock overhangs the Po- tomac, claimed to be a striking likeness of Wash- ington. After much gazing, a semblance is form- ed by the gradual development of the nose, lips and chin, until an admirable picture is formed, which being hard to discover, is harder to efface from gaze or memory. While the statue is of large proportions and magestic in its location, it fixes an impression that you can see a mildness of feature, so familiar to all in every picture by the artist of the great man. The other point of special interest is Jefferson's Rock on a hill over- hanging the river. From this rock one not only has a rapturous view of the grand scenery-but may gather scraps of unwritten history told by accommodating "habitants" of the Village near- by. The top of this rock, as seen by the author many years ago, is flat and about twelve or four- teen feet square. Its base which does not exceed five feet in width, rests upon the top of a larger rock, its height not quite six feet. The whole so well balanced, that slight effort with an ordin- ary lever, causes it to vibrate perceptibly. On this rock we are told there was another rock of smooth surface which attracted the attention of Mr. Jefferson when visiting this place, and it was on this rock where he inscribed his name- the writer had often heard of this incident in Mr. Jefferson's life, and of course was disappointed in not finding the name; and upon enquiry, was informed that the capstone referred to, that bore the inscription, had at one time been hauled from its place; and thus the name was gone. For an explanation of this, we were told that it was the act of some vandal,-an enemy of Jeffer- son, who hoped to destroy the name of a states- man that will never be forgotten while America has a history. The name of the vandal could not be obtained then,-but the story has been confirmed long since,-for in a study of the legis- lation of the new State prior to and embracing the period of 1800, we find that the General As- sembly was called upon by some enthusiastic friend of Mr. Jefferson-to take some action to show that "Virginia resented an act of discour- tesy shown one of her sons, offered by the un- warranted conduct of a Federal officer, by the

name of Henry." It was then easy to find an explanation of the incident. In the political and exciting "presidential" campaign of 1798-9, be- tween the Federal and Democratic parties, a Cap- tain Henry, who was stationed at this place with a squadron of U. S. Troops, headed a band of his men, all being federalists, no doubt,-rolled off this capstone that contained the inscription; and thus put out of sight a name from his poli- tical standpoint that was detestable,-Jefferson's name will never be disassociated from this rock, and sight-seers still hunt for the name. The lone rock on the mountain side will ever bear his name-while the name of the "Henry," (who bore no trace of kin to the immortal Patrick) would be forgotten except for this vandal act. Mr. Jefferson so immortalized the scenery of this break in the mountains, affording passage for the Rivers, that we give a portion of his eloquent description, as seen by him from a point on the Blue Ridge overlooking the whole picture-Gap, Rivers and Valley. We are told, as he stood on this high point, he gave to the world his graphic reasons for such creations. Here is what he said: "The passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge, is perhaps, one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point of land. On your right comes the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of a mountain a hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also; in the moment of their junc- tion, they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opinion that this earth has been created in time, that the mountains were formed first; that the rivers began to flow afterwards; that in this particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue Ridge of mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole Valley; that, con- tinuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, particularly on the Shenandoah- the evident marks of their disrupture and avul- sion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression. But the finishing which nature has given to the picture, is of a very different character; it is a true con- trast to the foreground; it is as placid and de- lightful as that is wild and tremendous; for the mountain being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the clefts, a small catch of blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the coun- try, inviting you, as it were. Here the eye ulti- mately composes itself; and that way, too, the

TOPOGRAPHY OF OLD FREDERICK

road happens actually to lead. You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fraginents over you, and within about twenty miles, reach Fred- erickstown, and the fine country round that. This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic; yet here, as in the neighborhood of the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed their lives within half dozen miles, and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which has shaken the earth itself to its center."

The first impulse of the writer after reading and studying this comprehensive description given us by this great genius, who had studied works of Nature as well as arts and sciences, is to with- draw quietly from the scene, and leave the reader to dwell over the rapturous picture given us; but we are reminded that all this creation has had its practical side,-and as we make this effort in the direction of describing the natural creations, it is plainly our duty to see what man has accomplished; though he waited long, to take advantage of some of these natural features. And it was thirty years after Mr. Jefferson's visit, before the pass was used for the great highways of traffic now so familiar to the visitor: The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad and the Canal hard- by,-with the McAdamized turnpike threading its way over the bridge and along the base of the broken mountains struggling to maintain their rights-all crowded to supply the demand made by man to transport the products of a country where nature has been so lavish in her forma- tions, and man so boastful of what he has done to open the store-houses of nature-and rush away the wonders of her bosom, as well also, to give the world an opportunity to partake of the pro- ducts of a soil well tilled. This point will be more fully treated under the head of Railroads, Towns, etc. Proceeding from this point, to locate

the northern boundary-we need only follow the course of the "Cohongoruta" westward, into the great mountains. The Valley lying between the Blue Ridge and the Great Mountains is cut in twain by this river; the section to the South being the Shenandoah Valley-that to the North, has been known for many years as the Cumberland Valley. The river for twenty-four miles-air line-performs some peculiar movements across the valley-hesitating, as it were, which course to pursue,-whether to lop off at many points sections for either valley ;- plunging often to the North,-then South,-then East, making so many changes in its tortuous course, that the distance is about doubled, as it fixes the line between Virginia and Maryland. And, if one takes a position on the first mountain going West-he will have a view of the winding river that pre- sents a picture of apparently several rivers, run- ning in much confusion along the eccentric bends and turnings, are alluvial soils. The region at some points appears as a valley, and again, a hill country with its suggestive features, general- ly, however, the country on either side impresses the beholder with a wealth of agriculture. The river in many places is broad and beautiful, giv- ing an idea that it is a navigable stream; and, as will be shown in this volume, was navigable, for experiment, once.

We find on its southern banks Shepherdstown, 12 miles above Harper's Ferry, which not only marks the point alluded to, but also the old Mec- lenburg crossing of the river by the first settlers. West from this point, the river describes many forms and shapes in its course; passing Williams- port, we approach the mountain gorges and wind- ing ways; reach later on, the elevations leading past Paw-Paw,-Greenspring,-Sir Johns Run,- crossing South Branch, and up to Cumberland- where the altitude is very perceptible. For the purpose of defining the northern boundary we need go no further West.

CHAPTER VIII

Natural Points of Interest of Old Frederick County

In treating the topography of this great section of the Lower Valley, the author may at times make some departure from his scheme; the in- tention being to keep separate the creations of nature from those of man; and having disposed of the natural features, then to take up the at- tractive development of this wonderful surface. We may at times find a blending of the two; but in this chapter we hope to avoid as much as possible any mention of the development other than to aid in distinguishing some locality, by mentioning the name of a town or other promi- nent feature.

The surface of this great section is broken by mountains, hills and bold streams. Of the former, the Big North along the western border, has already been mentioned as forming part of the western boundary. This mountain is in full view from so many points in the valley, that we naturally conclude it is entitled to its name. Its splendid proportions are not its chief attractions ; for it affords inexhaustible supplies of lumber of many varieties; and has been the base of sup- ply of the celebrated chestnut-oak bark, which has made several large tanneries famous for their superior products. In the early days it afforded shelter for large game-bear, panther, wolf and deer. Family traditions have been given the writer to study-the hope being he would in some way weave into his work many exploits of the forefathers, who not only reveled in the chase, but found much profit in gathering pelts from these animals, which, in the early days, was their stock-in-trade; as orders of court show that rewards were offered and liberal prem- iums paid for the destruction of such animals. The pelts found sale at good prices. The fur dealer in that day made frequent shipments of his packs. The courts, however, required the packs to be inspected. No explanation of this that the writer has ever seen, but in one in- stance. The Sheriff reported one condemned pack, he having discovered that "the pelts were overlaid with the brown Tobacco leaf," the pack was ordered to be sold at publick auction in front of the jail on the Publick Lotts!" The traditions mention combats with Indian hunters, who claimed the first right to use the trails and crossings. Generally these Indian hunters at

that period were peace Indians. They never hesitated to claim their rights, and this resulted in many sharp fights. In other pages, some ac- count of these hunters' battles may appear. The writer reluctantly omits giving them further mention here, as they abound with much to show the character of those early mountain set- tlers which would furnish names of many, whose descendants have become noticeable factors in the political history of the county. On the east- ern slopes of the Big North, many famous springs are found; some noted for the strength and gush of the fountain, others for their medicinal qualities. Among the latter, is found the cluster of springs in the Cove section; and while in that section, coming down the eastern slope, we must mention The Gravel Spring, now owned by G. Wash Pifer, Esq. This spring is truly one of the gems of the mountain. Pembroke- Springs, still further North are susceptible im- provements, which should give them prominence as a mountain resort. We pass on now to find the head streams of a famous creek known as Hogue Creek (pronounced Hog). In tracing the Pioneers to their settlements on the various streams, the origin of this name will be given. This is a real mountain stream, drawing its sup- plies from the East and West. Wolf Spring away up on the slopes of the North Mountain and numerous springs on the eastern slopes of Lit- tle North, all wend their way to form Hogue Creek, which, ere its ford is reached, where the Northwestern Turnpike crosses it, six miles West from Winchester, becomes very often a mountain torrent with destruction in its way, not only to fencing and growing crops, but it has swept away within the writer's recollection, human lives and teams of horses. Such disasters should encourage the authorities to erect bridges over this and Back Creek. Certainly Frederick Coun- ty, with all her resources, should be able to pay for bridging the principal streams, since she has never been called upon to expend a dollar for this purpose in a hundred years.

Some of the springs on the eastern slope of the Little North are found within three and half miles of Winchester. Some flowing to the Po- tomac via Hogue Creek, and others sending their streams to the same river via Opecquon Creek.

POINTS OF INTEREST OF OLD FREDERICK COUNTY

Following the streams flowing to Hogue Creek from the point named, the course is now fol- lowed over the Northwestern Turnpike and through a gap in these Little North Mountain ranges, that from the earliest time in its history ' has been known as Hoop-Petticoat Gap, so dub- bed by reason of the "lasses" of that section adopting the hoop skirt and making their hoops from the hickory poles found in that section. Some wag applied the name in jest, never dream- ing of its duration. The hoop skirt became pop- ular at a subsequent period, when not only the lasses of the Gap adopted the style, but all the social realm. The writer remembers the charms of this style, modernized by the crinoline skirt about 1850 and used for a considerable time thereafter. This Gap is entitled to its old name. Records speak of roads being opened to the Great Road leading through Hoop-Petticoat Gap; and deeds for land in that region describe boundaries etc., in this Gap. Hogue Creek flows generally in a northeasterly course, going through some good sections. The bottom lands are narrow and subject to overflow. Some productive farms are seen along its banks, principally in the vicin- ity of Pughtown. Near this point, the creek re- ceives the waters of Indian Hollow. The coun- try along Hogue Creek, where it empties into Back Creek, at a point three miles East of Pugh- town, is hilly and broken; and in some places nature seemed inclined to make a mountain range to fringe its banks. Returning from the creek region to the mountain range, within four miles West of Winchester, we find what is locally known as Chambers Mountain, so called as being a section of mountain land granted to John Chambers by the Governor and Council. Chambersville post office is named for this man. The Gap passes along the abrupt ending of the mountain leaving off to the northeast nearby what was once the extension of this mountain, a conical-shaped mountain, called Round Hill. This spur rises majestically at the North end of the first valley seen as you emerge from the mountains over the Great Road leading from the Ohio to Winchester. The traveler, so ac- customed to mountains of every form, height, grandeur and confusing ranges, over turbulent creeks and rivers, has the mountain scenery and pictures of nature so suddenly transformed by this other work of nature, that he is brought to a halt, impressed with this wonderful change. Back of him are the mountains, miles upon miles of them. At no moment in all the travel for days, whence so ever he came or whither he went, had he a glimpse of an open country. Now in full view, without an effort, he beholds

the open country. Not even the lines of the Blue Ridge are seen from this point. No, noth- ing but table land lying under the eastern shad- ows of the Little North, (Chambers) fringed on the East by strips of woodland, with gently undulating ridges of limestone, just enough to draw distinctive features, forming a line be- tween this and the great valley. Looking to the South, the eye rests upon a fringe of the moun- tain forests, extending along a slight eminence scarcely perceptible, but sufficient to shut off the view of the upper valley; while on the North, rising gradually from the road-way is old Round Hill, to shut off the northern view; and thus the vision is confined to this sooth- ing scene of this first open country. The area is not great; only about two thousand acres of land can be seen from the first point of obser- vation. Several homes of prosperous farmers are seen to the East and South. Directly in front are seen two brick churches, situated on either side of the Great Road leading to Winchester; the one off on the green hillock in a grove of forest trees, is the Presbyterian Church, with a small cemetery hard-by. Off to the North, and nestling under the shadows of Round Hill, is the M. E. Church, South. The country store and post office of Chambersville at the forks of the Roads are new features, and belong to the period known as "Since the War." Lying off to the South, in the midst of many acres of luxuri- ant meadow lands a half mile away, is a promi- nent homestead, a veritable Colonial Home, the domain of which extends from the horizon on the South, to the Northwestern Turnpike, from which the traveler is taking his view, Old Re- tirement is the name by which it has been known since 1782, when the writer's grand sire, Nathan- iel Cartmell, took it as his allotment of the large Cartmell grant. Here several generations of this family first saw the light, the author be- ing one of the second generation. Little North Mountain is a range of mountains, starting in its first distinctive formations, far up towards the southern boundary to be broken in twain by Cedar Creek, and again by a smaller stream, tributary to this creek, forming Fawsett's Gap, in early days Carr's, and later, as Longacre's Gap. From this gap no other break is made in this range for five miles. Passing Round Hill, the range is much broken leading northward. Now and then are spurs and ridges, the charac- ter so changed, that following its course, the mountain features are so blended with the hill country, that one would suppose that we have a lost mountain. Soon, however, as we approach the Potomac at a point above Martinsburg, we find this range again taking on strong mountain

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Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia., Part 8

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920 Publication date: 1909 Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.] Number of Pages: 607

Author: Cartmell, T. K. (Thomas Kemp), 1838-1920
Publication date: 1909
Publisher: [Winchester, Va.] : [Printed by the Eddy Press Corp.]
Number of Pages: 607