USA > Virginia > Frederick County > Frederick County > Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants: A History of Frederick County, Virginia. > Part 9
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CARTMELL'S HISTORY
features. Here a high point is seen, distinguish- ed now as North Mountain Depot, a station on the main line of the B. & O. R. R.
The country between the two mountains, may be styled the Hill Country, broken, as it is, for many miles. One never feels that it could be distinguished as a valley, though it is natural that those unacquainted with the country would conclude that it is. Very many prosperous far- mers are found throughout this region, giving evidence that there is much fertility in the slate and mountain soil, when intelligent labor is be- stowed. Though the section is not regarded as generally favorable to agriculture, the land not commanding the prices found in the section East of the Little North, much was done in former years for the development of some of the mineral resources found in the upper section, such as smelting furnaces. One feature of this section, worthy of notice is a cataract found near the Old Furnace, near the eastern base of the Big North Mountain, locally known as Mountain Falls. We find this beautiful cataract but little known to the outside world, though
only about fourteen miles southwest from Win- chester. The Falls as they are called, are form- ed by a beautiful little mountain stream, coming from a large spring near the summit. The stream grows very restless and bold, as it finds its way through a mountain gorge and through a glen between the mountain and Falling Ridge, running in a northerly course for more than a mile from the mountain spring, where it sud- denly swings to the East for its first plunge over a solid mountain granite rock, about one hun- dred feet high. At this point it is about twenty feet wide; then a second plunge is made. The last water-fall shoots entirely free from the perpendicular wall of granite; more than one hundred feet in length is the granite bed of the stream, which falls away in slopes for a final plunge, thence it passes with gradual descent, and at once becomes a smooth and quiet stream, supplying Mr. R. M. Cooper's farm with abun- dance of water. The mist rising from the base of the fall and many other features, impress the beholder. Reader, go see this Niagara in min- iature!
CHAPTER IX
The Lower Valley-Old Frederick in the Early Days
The observer should occupy points on the Blue Ridge in the morning, and on the Little North in the evening. The morning view being heighten- ed by the early sunbeams rising over the Blue Mountains on which he stands, and watches their rays gradually seeking out and disclosing to view the many little valleys, hill tops and rolling sur- face, and marking the tiny rivulet and babbling brook, shining like silver threads. And, as the eye endeavors to follow their tracings,-the little lines often lost to sight as they wind their way along the base of some hill, showing that the sur- face of the placid picture is broken by ridge and dell. Though looking down upon the scene from the mountain point, the first impression is that the surface is smooth; but in watching the chang- ing scene revealed by stronger rays of sunshine, the markings become distinct. The rivulets have found their way around the hills and through the vales, and enter the larger streams; and as they gather all their silver threads into the lar- ger line, the sheen of waters is so increased, as to be dignified with names. Some of them have become historic for a thousand reasons. The most prominent of these water lines has now become so well defined by its flashing and rushing waters, that it deserves first mention. The Opecquon, as it is called at this writing, is so well defined in its tortuous course, that it can readily be traced to the Potomac; though some- times the unpracticed eye confuses the many broad gleams of water, and the impression is given that several distinct streams are forming a confluence. Not so, however; it is the same distinct stream from head to flow. So many en- quiries have been made of the writer as to the source of the Opecquon Creek, that it is well to give it at this point. And as the source has always been familiar to him, he may be pardoned for giving the location so plainly, that no ques- tion need arise hereafter to cast a doubt. The head springs forming this creek, are found at the base of the Little North Mountain, about four miles (air line) southwest from Winchester. Off in the vale below this base, are many springs within a radius of five hundred yards; and this cluster of springs was for many years regarded as the head springs, and were designated as the Cartmell and Glass Springs; thus called by rea-
son of their grants of land lying on either side of the stream which embraced all these springs. The stream formed a line between their grants for a mile of its eastern course. These springs afforded such water power, that the stone mill, only a few hundred yards below (still standing), was erected by Mr. Glass. Following the early period, it was claimed that the large springs were on the side of the smaller stream coming from the mountain. To set at rest the point so often raised, it was found that other springs above were entitled to recognition. These were embraced in the grant also, and owned in the early days by same owners. They were for many years known as the Cartmell and Tavenner Springs, more recently the property of Levi G. Miller and John H. Cochran. But even above these springs, is found one other, and the only one. It is noted for its cold and delightful wa- ter, and is owned by the author.
The Opecquon from its source, for three miles flows due East, and continually receives the waters given out by the wealth of springs in its course; so that it becomes a formidable stream 'ere it passes from the limestone belt into the slate section at Bartonsville, six miles South of Winchester, where the Valley Turnpike crosses it on, or rather through, an old historic wooden bridge. The creek from this point runs through the slate belt, which extends from the Massa- nutten to the Potomac, and finds so many ob- stacles in the strongly-marked slate ridges and deep veins, that many changes occur in its course. Sometimes we trace it flowing South; then sud- denly curving one of the ridges, it flows north- ward; then, as suddenly, due East; then north- east. By this time it has made the point where it was once marked by a large mill (Parkins), where the Front Royal Turnpike crosses, five miles from Winchester. From this point, it plunges boldly into a thickly wooded country, called the Pine Hills. The growth, generally stunted, here gives evidence of weaker soils than the alluvial limestone lands found along its first three miles. Its devious way through these hills is interesting to behold, so many difficulties are encountered in its apparent struggle to reach the Potomac. The writer has often wondered why this creek did not find an outlet to the
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CARTMELL'S HISTORY
Shenandoah, which seemed to be the natural out- let for all this water; and how it should have turned from what seemed its natural course, to seek an outlet to the Potomac many miles away, breaking through those formidable slate ridges, was a mystery only to be explained by the de- mands of Nature. When we, however, find that this bold creek heads for the Potomac in a more northerly course, the problem is partly solved. Some such water-way was required to drain and water this peculiar slate section, otherwise it would have been a glaring waste, extending far through this rich Valley. Without it much of the Lower Valley would never have received its grandeur. Nature's formation of this great slate belt, separating these two limestone sections, must have been no accident. At any rate, the once barren slate belt has been transformed. Whether it will ever become as fertile as its limestone neighbors, is doubtful. But the trans- formation has ever offered attractions to those who have followed its course, seeming to pre- fer them to others on either side. This creek, where it starts on its northerly course, is cross- ed again by the Millwood Turnpike, six miles from Winchester. Later on, it is crossed by the Berryville Turnpike, at a point known as Spout. Springs. This spring is on the eastern bank, where the traveler from Winchester to Berry- ville slakes his thirst, and watches the movements of the hydraulic ram, sending a goodly supply of cold water to the home of Mr. Daniel T. Wood on the West side, where his large flour mill is situated on Redbud. This stream, one of the three tributaries of the Opecquon, flows from the West. Abrams Creek and Ash Hollow Run, form their junction near this mill, emptying into the Opecquon just below this Spout Spring Ford and Redbud Run-a strong stream flowing from its head springs along the base of Applepie Ridge, and finding its way into the Opecquon below this ford. Redbud has become historical in the part she played when armies lined its banks awaiting the shock of battle.
The Opecquon for several miles from a point below the Parkins Mills, forms the boundary of Clarke County, and continues as such to the three Counties of Frederick, Clarke and Jefferson. From this Spout Spring Ford, the creek takes as its general course a northeast direction, picking up on its way the small streams coming from either side-those from the West being Lick Run, flow- ing through the grounds of the Jordan White Sulphur Springs; Littler's Run and Turkey Run flowing through Brucetown.
The Opecquon has here become quite a majestic little river; many places presenting rugged scen- ery, as she rushes through overhanging cliffs; then
falling away into broad, placid basins, where her bosom grows broader, and presents the idea of miniature lakes; then, as if longing to get away and reach the Potomac, the swirls again appear, and a turbulent creek is seen forcing its way through many formidable slate ridges. The Old Charlestown Road, often called the old Baltimore Road, crosses this creek northeast from Winches- ter. In tracing the meanderings of this stream, the reader will observe that at none of the road- crossings mentioned, do we find the Opecquon at a distance exceeding six miles from Winchester. In its tortuous course, every point of the com- pass seems to woo its waters ;- describing in these courses, a crescent around Winchester, from whence all of her great roads leading out in every direction, except due West, must, within six miles, cross this historic stream.
In tracing the Opecquon from source to flow, mention is made of Abrams Creek. This stream is entitled to fuller description, while treating of the waterways of the County. The creek, doubt- less, is entitled to the name tradition has given it. One of the first settlers of this section was Abram Hollingsworth, who located himself at a large spring southeast from the original site of the Borough of Winchester, but some time before it was thus known. The spring has ever been known as Hollingsworth Spring; and at this writing, in part the property of the family of that name and the City of Winchester. Why this family should have preferred naming the stream Abram rather than the family name, might raise some question for speculation. This stream comes from springs West of the City of Winchester, the most notable being, of course, what is known as the Town Spring near the sub- urbs, and on the roadside of the Northwest Turnpike. From this spring, Winchester drew her water supply for more than a century. Still to the southwest, about a mile distant, is the cluster of springs on the properties now owned by James B. Russell and Jacob E. Baker, on the main course of the creek. Still further to the northwest are found three other springs, imme- diately on the divide of the watershed between Hogue Creek and Opecquon. The first is at the home of Dr. John S. Lupton, two miles from Winchester on the northwest side of the Turn- pike; the others are near the eastern base of the Round Hill-one of them on the very summit of the divide, on the property owned for many years by the Hodgson family. From this spring can be seen the stream flowing westward to form Hogue Creek-all within three miles of the first cluster mentioned; and from that point on, it is known as Abrams Creek,-a stream noted for its splendid mill sites, where factories and mills
49
NATURAL FEATURES OF THE LOWER VALLEY
were erected in the early part of the Nineteenth Century. The first was the large stone mill erected by Isaac Hollingsworth in 1827 near the Valley Turnpike, one mile South from the Court- house. A short distance below on the East side of the Pike, was the Nathan Parkins Mill. Below this and in full view are three other mills-the first for many years the property of Jonathan Smith ;- next the Kern's Mill; then the Swartz Mill, near the South side of the Front Royal Turnpike, now the William Brothers' Woolen Mill. Up to this point, the course of this stream was first southeast; then East; then due South for a short distance; then due East to the last named mill. At this point, it abruptly turns its course North for a quarter of a mile, where it meets the town run near the Abram Hollings- worth Spring, where David Hollingsworth for many years maintained a prosperous mill. In after years, about 1870, it became the property of Ober & Sons, who used it as a phosphate, or fertilizer, factory under the management of U. L. Dorsey. Then in 1884, it was used as a creamery or dairy plant for the manufacture of butter- E. R. Thatcher and John V. Tavenner proprietors. Falling into disuse in a few years, it became the property of the City of Winchester, to form a basis for additional water supply. Below this point, the stream flows northeast through a hill
country. Other mills appear. The first was the property of James McCallister, but was abandon- ed many years ago. One other, just below, was also the property of the McCallister family, who gave it the name of Greenwood Mills.
The reader will see that Abrams Creek is en- titled to distinction, as an important factor in the interests of Winchester, and for the country many miles around. It should be mentioned here, that the Winchester Paper Mill Company became the owners of the Jonathan Smith Mill property in 1874, erecting large and suitable buildings for the manufacture of strawboard paper. The en- terprise was successful. It is now owned by the American Strawboard Company-known as the Trust. The plant is operated now to its fullest capacity. The subject of mills and factories will be treated under their own particular head and not continued here. The digression made in the case of Abrams Creek, was deemed necessary to give it some prominence, owing to its relation to the old county seat. Having pointed out the course of the Opecquon and some of its tributar- ies, further mention of the waterways of the country will be postponed for the present; and some of the highways that have been made as the country developed, will be treated in the next chapter.
CHAPTER X
Old County Roads and Turnpikes-Their Charters, &c.
The author has bestowed much time and labor in his endeavor to give some intelligent under- standing of the important highways of the Coun- ty, showing their markings in such way, that the reader may trace them to and from the many settlements; and even beyond the boundary lines, where such roads enter adjoining counties. Much of this matter was given in the chapter on the organization of the first courts, as the court orders related to the petitions presented to the court, asking for the right to open roads through the county; so some repetition may occur.
A careful description is given in Chapter I, of the important roadways opened by order of court for the first two years, the orders of court being copied in full.
Several roads from the Valley passed through gaps in the Blue Ridge over to Orange Court- house, and other points East of the Blue Ridge; others from the settlements of the "Bullskin" and Cohongoroota, and from settlements on the Opec- quon near Shepherdstown to the county seat, and then along Great Capon, and along Pattersons Creek, do not require mention here. As the settlements were made in many sections and population rapidly increased, a demand was made for roads at every monthly term; and the courts were very prompt in complying with the requests of the petitioners. Very soon the settlements had ways of intercourse, and also roads to attend monthly courts as litigants, jurors or witnesses.
In order that the reader may see briefly what progress the new settlers were making along this line, the author will give a list of many of the roads laid out in the county, embracing every section within its boundaries; giving names of many persons, and suggesting localities that, if he cares to do so, he may examine the old order books of the court for the first ten years, even before the town of Winchester was established by law in 1752,-and he will find much of interest in every order. But let him take warning, lest some important matter escape his attention. For be it known, that those old courts, through their clerk being more economical with the space in their books than with language employed to ex- press their meaning, much is so closely written and interspersed with other minutes of the terms; and not being indexed, are only found after care-
ful reading of every page. The writer has spent many hours and even days, to make it possible to place before the reader the following list. We take them in their order :
From the Courthouse to Morgan Morgans.
« the meeting house at the Gap of the Moun- tain above Hugh Paul's to Warm Spring.
Courthouse to Littler's old place. Smith's to John Littler's.
Parkin's Mill to Jones' Plantation. Sturman's Run to Johnson's Mill.
John Milton's to John Sturman's.
Cunningham's Chapel to the River.
Hite's Mill to Chrisman's Spring. Camp Meeting Ground).
(Old
" the County Road to the Chapel and to Mc- Coy's Spring (Mckay).
" Opecquon to the Courthouse.
Cedar Creek to McCoy's Run.
Spout Run to John Sturman's.
Opecquon to Sherando River.
Geddings' plantation to Littler's Mill, (later Wood's mill).
Hite's mill to Nation's run.
Mill Creek to Littler's old place. (Old Tav- ern stand).
" Ferry to the County Road.
" Stephen's Mill to McCoy's Chapel.
Wm. Hughes plantation to Jeremiah Smith's.
Simon Linder's to Old Lloyd.
" Branson's Mill to Gregory Ford .- (Shenan- doah County).
Cunningham's to Borden Springs.
Capt. Rutherford's to Potomac.
= to John McCormick.
Howel's Ford to the top of the ridge.
David Lloyd's to top of Blue Ridge at Ves- tal Gap.
lower part of Patterson's Creek to the wagon road.
" the mouth of Patterson's Creek to Jobe Pearsell's.
Watkins Ferry to Falling Waters.
" Hite's Spring to Middle of Swamp in Smith Marsh.
Gap on Little Mountain to Kersey's Ferry. Littler's old place to Opequon.
stone bridge to Parker's on the North River of Cap Capon.
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OLD COUNTY ROADS AND TURNPIKES
From Richard Sturman's to Cunningham's Chapel.
the Courthouse to Ballinger's plantation.
.6 Funk's Mill to Cedar Creek.
Funk's Mill to the Augusta line-(route of the Valley Turnpike).
" the town to Dr. Briscoe's (evidently Steph- ensburg).
bridge near Lindsey's Chapel.
to Cunningham's
Stover's Mill to Gabriel Jones' plantation. Frederick Town to mouth of South Branch.
Long Marsh to Vestal's Iron Works.
= Wm. Frosts' to John Frosts' Mill.
" Hoop Peticoat Gap to Hite Mill.
Branson's Mill to Hite's Mill.
Ross's Fence by the great road to Opequon.
Johnson's house to road to Fairfax County.
= Caton's house to Jacob Hite's.
Watkinson's Ferry to Vestal's Gap.
John Ratchlies to John Fossetts.
Stephens Mill to Mary Littler's.
Chester's to Branson's Mill.
" North River to Great Capon.
Cunningham's Chapel to Neill's Ford.
Cedar Creek to Cross Roads at John Duck- worth's.
John McCormick to main road to town.
On the river side from Long Marsh to Ves- tal's.
Sleepy Creek to Widow Paul's.
Morgan's Chapel to Opequon.
Lloyd's crossing at the river to top of Ridge.
Burwell's Mill to Fox Trap point.
" Kersey's to the Ferry Road of Sherando.
river at Edge's Ford to Francis Carney.
the head of the pond in Sherando to Worm- ley Quarter.
. bridge to head of great pond on Sherando.
" Sturman's Bridge to Burwell's Mill.
Nation's Run to Capt. Hite's.
"6 Town to the Opecquon.
head spring of Stribling's to Cunningham's Chapel.
Mark Harman's Mill to Isaac Hollings- worth.
Many of the roads mentioned in the foregoing list are worthy of more extended notice than others; and referring to the first chapters of this work, will be seen sufficient description of the important Highways to readily locate their route, and also give the names of the landowners through which the proposed road passes. If any should desire to follow the description more fully; they would do well to select the names of the land owners and resort to the deed books of that period, for the deeds for the lands in the section ;- and they will find satisfactory evidence
to verify all statements briefly made as to the location, etc.
One of the roads mentioned in the foregoing list was destined to become famous ;- but in the order of court receives the usual attention: no mention made for the necessity for the highway other than to afford communication between out- laying settlements and the county seat. The peti- tions simply ask for the cutting out and open a way "from Frederick Town the county seat, to the Mouth of the South Branch." This evident- ly was the first direct road opened from the coun- ty seat to the settlements beyond the great Moun- tains ;- though on several occasions the settlers on the South Branch had petitioned the court for roads in their section. Same in the case of Great Capon and Patterson's Creek. Some came to court from those sections. Processes had been served on the inhabitants of all those "outlying settlements"-and the attendances at court show that they found some route to travel,-but no evidence given to locate the way of their coming. Those outlying settlements were not off-shoots from the Shenandoah Valley Settlements, but were independent settlements,-made by persons and families following the course of the Cohon- goroota, seeking a valley no doubt which would equal the Shenandoah. And as they found the upper Potomac unpromising for settlement, ow- ing to the rugged country along its course-they eagerly looked for some better country ;- and in the Valley extending up the Great Capon and South Branch and Patterson's Creek they en- tered upon what they called the "Tomahawk" or "Squatters Right," and began to settle up those promising sections; and lived by their own com- munity laws. They, however, were soon discov- ered ;- and "hunters and trappers" gave glowing accounts of the new country and new people. They were within the jurisdiction of the Freder- ick County government; and we find them often at the county seat, asking for aid to build "Forts," open roads, and for appointment of Dep. Sheriffs, etc. This new roadway to those settlements is easily traced from the Courthouse in a northwest direction to the head of "Indian Creek" ("Indian Hollow") to "Hog Creek," then out to the "Sand Mountains"-along "any acces- sible Valley to the Gap in the great mountain," and beyond this to the mouth of Great Capon- No mention is made of any landowner after leaving Back Creek, until the route touches the entrance to Capon Valley. From the Courthouse to Back Creek, the names of land owners are given, so that the route is easily located. From Great Capon westward, no name appears. But mention is made of certain settlements through which the route is to take,-to end at the mouth
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CARTMELL'S HISTORY
of South Branch, where it passes through the lands of Garret, Reese and others, to where the road leaves the river ford (meaning the Poto- mac) going out to the southwest. Having thus briefly touched the general direction of this new road,-we may add that this direction was fol- lowed by those who opened the way for better communication between the lower valley and those sections West of the Great mountains. By reference to the minutes of the Courts subse- quent to the first order made to open this road- we find within three years the report from the Commissioners shows the road opened, and al- lowances made in Tobacco to the Commissioners and other persons for their services. No land- owner coming for damages. It appears this new road was of such use when opened, that its fame as an important highway was soon established. We find that George Washington was in Win- chester 1753, on his way to the French Authori- ties along our western boundaries,-enquiring for a way to reach the vicinity of "Will's Creek," that would be more direct than the route North of the Cohongoroota. Fortunately the youthful Washington was much given to writing notes- not only of surveys he made-but of himself and the many incidents occurring on such expeditions he was then making. Throughout his eventful life, he was ever ready with his pen to note much that has become historically interesting. Wash- ington's "Journal" fixes the date of his arrival in Winchester on the occasion of the incident mentioned; and from it the author will collect much to explain the object of his seeking. The Journal of the Governor's Council, and Acts of the old General Assembly of that period,-afford much more information on the necessity of this expedition. As mentioned in a former Chapter, the English Government claimed the country from the Atlantic to the Pacific ;- and Virginia claimed within her boundaries the territory West of the Potomac; and Old Frederick claimed a large portion of the western country. The Jour- nal of the Council shows that many persons ask- ed for an incorporation of the "Ohio Company" authorizing them to locate on lands West of the Ohio. The petition was denied ;- but a grant was secured from the Crown for the location of settlements on any lands between the Ohio and Mississippi River not to exceed 700,000 acres; as settlers were located, same to be reported to the General Council at Williamsburg, where proper record was made in what we to-day would call the Land Office. The "Statutes at Large" refer to these grants, and mention Acts of the Assem- bly creating laws for their government. Prior to this period, it was well known that the French from their seat of Colonial Government in Louis-
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