USA > Vermont > The Lake Champlain and Lake George valleys, Vol. I > Part 31
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Federal and State monument and plaza erected to the honor of Commodore Thomas Macdonough, Commander of the American Fleet during the Battle of Plattsburgh, September 11, 1814. Height of monument, 155 feet. One of the eleven highest monuments in the United States.
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army rushing away in a panic from a greatly inferior foe without a real battle, unless we consider the contagion of emotion in a crowd operating in accordance with the principles of mass psychology.
The failure of the British to capture Plattsburgh and the Cham- plain Valley, together with the events at Lundy's Lane, were very help- ful in bringing peace between England and the United States. Before Macdonough's victory, the British were confident of success. Their fine armies seemed invincible; our capitol had been burned; our treasury was empty; our war vessels had been driven from the ocean and our commerce ruined; while the northeast continued to sabotage the American war program. It was only natural under these circum- stances that the British peace commissioners should have demanded humiliating terms from the United States. After the battle of Platts- burgh it became clear that the American government was not yet at the end of its rope. Lake Champlain was in American hands, and British armies were as unsuccessful in attempting to conquer by land as were their opponents. This failure to accomplish anything definite by conquest caused England, as well as the United States, to tire of hos- tilities. Due largely to the results of the battle of Plattsburgh, our peace envoys plucked up courage while England's representatives became discouraged in proportion, and peace was easily arranged. Many aspects of the War of 1812 were stranger than fiction, and one of the most unusual of all was the universal rejoicing caused in this country by the Treaty of Ghent, in spite of the fact that it settled noth- ing. So complete was the American satisfaction with the document, that its ratification by our Senate was unanimous. In spite of the fact, however, that the treaty did not settle grievances, the outstanding sources of dispute between the two countries were eliminated other- wise. The danger of the Indians on the western frontier had been removed, while the overthrow of Napoleon had made British impress- ments of our sailors unnecessary. For these reasons, Americans as a rule were happy to turn once more to the arts of peace without insist- ing on meaningless phrases being included in the treaty.
With the close of the War of 1812, warfare in the Champlain Val- ley came to an end. No more was the serenity of Lake George or Lake Champlain to be disturbed by shot and shell. In 1818, an agreement was made that neither England nor the United States
C & G-21
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should maintain more than one naval vessel on Lake Champlain, and also that no other war craft should be built or armed there. Fight- ing ships on Lake Champlain soon were only memories. After the War of 1812 ended and before our government regained its faith in British friendship, Americans began a fortification at Rouses Point. It became known as Fort Blunder because it was found to be located on Canadian soil. Needless to say, it was immediately abandoned. In the 1840s the Webster-Ashburton Treaty arranged for the loca- tion to be ceded to the United States and the construction of Fort Montgomery was begun. The growth of goodwill between Canada and the United States progressed so rapidly, however, that this post was abandoned in 1870 and dismantled in 1908.
For countless ages before the coming of the white man, Lake George, Lake Champlain, and the surrounding territory were a dis- puted battleground fought for by contending tribes of savages. With the arrival of the great French explorer this section continued to be primarily dedicated to the arts of war, although the methods changed and the rules were somewhat refined. The Treaty of Ghent was not signed until more than two centuries had passed since Cham- plain had carried the flag of France to Ticonderoga. During that long period of time, whether or not nations were theoretically at peace, a year seldom passed without bloodshed in the historic valleys of Lake Champlain and Lake George. Great was the part played by these waterways in determining the destiny of nations. The decision that North America should be primarily English rather than French was closely connected with developments around these lakes, particu- larly Lake George. In the events leading up to American independ- ence and liberty, it is impossible to hold that any other locality rivalled the Champlain Valley and the vicinity of Saratoga in importance. Finally, in the War of 1812, it is hard to overestimate the impor- tance of Macdonough's victory. The inhabitants of this section pos- sess a glorious heritage of a military nature. As we leave the bloody phase of the history of the valleys, let us pause to reëcho the thoughts ascribed to Joseph Cook, an early historian of Ticonderoga, written previous to the modern rejuvenation of the fortress :
"At times as you stand in revery listening to your thoughts- perhaps in a summer evening when the ruins are most impressive -the scarce-heard plash of waves around the promontory, and the
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sighing of the lake wind among the leaves and broken angles of the ramparts, seem transformed to a still, mysterious voice, as of a spirit in the air. 'It is gone-gone-gone,' saith the pulsating sound, keeping harmony with your thoughts, 'Montcalm, Abercrombie, Howe, Amherst, Allen, St. Clair, Burgoyne-Indian, French, English, Col- onist-burning torch, savage cry-pouring blood-booming gun- nevermore-nevermore-nevermore.' And the waves, irregular, beginning low and growing louder with glad emphasis along the shore, seem to answer : 'Evermore, evermore,-peace, peace, peace.' These are among the lessons of all military ruins, especially of Fort Ticon- deroga. No visitor should leave the scene of the first victory of American liberty without heartier gratitude for the immense results of the struggle here begun and a profounder sense of duty in the con- flict of the present day, on which depends their enlargement and trans- mission. The old ruins proclaim that for the freedom of America the battles of military hosts are passed, those of mind with mind remain. Peace, O Carillon, we leave with thee, and go forth thoughtfully, less noble soldiers in nobler wars than thine."*
We dwell in the land of the great, where our ancestors kindled the sacred torch of liberty. Our valleys once saturated with their blood, our lakes enriched with memories of military pageantry, and our mountains, along whose sides once rang the dreaded war whoop, are consecrated to those who knelt at the sacred altar of freedom. It is our task to carry high, like a beacon, the torch passed on to us by them. Let us go forward, nourishing carefully our American traditions con- ceived on the early frontier and born with much travail and self- sacrifice. The enemies of today are more elusive, but fully as strong as those of ages past. Let us do our part well.
*Smith, H. P .: "History of Essex County."
Part II
CHAPTER I
Bennington County
Between the era of military pageantry and our present-day spe- cialization of occupation, industry, and professions, was an age primarily devoted to settlement, and the evolution of local self- government. It was an elusive age without definite chronological boundaries, for it ended in some localities before it started in others. Some settlements were begun before the military era even approached its climax; in other communities, colonization did not develop until after the third age arrived and then only in response to industrial need. Regardless of time and place, the era of settlement retained the romance of the previous age while it also nourished the roots from which developed the important economic pursuits of the present day. It is with this second act in our drama that we must now deal.
The area with which we are concerned is composed of eleven counties. Vermont is represented by the six counties of Bennington, Rutland, Addison, Chittenden, Franklin and Grand Isle, which com- prise the entire western tier from Massachusetts on the south to Can- ada on the north. New York's contribution consists of the five coun- ties of Washington, Saratoga, Warren, Essex and Clinton. The only possible method of dealing with the settlement of such a large area is by means of geographic divisions. The individual counties offer such units of a suitable size. Furthermore, cach has a separate story of its own, differing from all its neighbors. There are certain obvious objections to narrating the history of the counties in the chronological order of their creation, but at least such an approach places the set- tlement of this area in a proper perspective. Within each county are several towns. Every one of these smaller units has its own traditions and its own proud heritage. And from the historical point of view, the story of the birth and growth of a town of a few hundred souls is
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fully as important as the narration of Indian raids and border war- fare. There is, moreover, as much of excitement and romance, and considerably more of constructive results. To assist the reader in locating an individual town these numerous small units shall be dis- cussed alphabetically.
Even though, for purposes of simplicity, we consider each county by itself, it should be emphasized that the territory under discussion is one unit. The boundary line between New York and Vermont cannot alter that fact. All of these Vermont counties, except Benning- ton, border to some extent on Lake Champlain, and the same is true of the New York counties of Washington, Clinton and Essex. Warren County includes practically all of Lake George. These nine coun- ties are all vitally concerned with the development of the Lake Champlain-Lake George valleys by virtue of geographic proximity. Their streams, in general, are a part of the St. Lawrence drainage system. The lives of their citizens follow to a large extent the same economic and political pattern. Whatever concerns Lake George and Lake Champlain affects them all. The other two counties of Sara- toga and Bennington do not border on either waterway. Their drain- age systems point generally to the Hudson. A superficial observer might, at first glance, think they do not belong with the other nine; but such an impression would be erroneous. At the present time, the Green Mountains of Vermont, which extend through Bennington County as well as through the counties to the north: the Adiron- dacks of New York; the two lakes; the upper reaches of the Hudson; and various smaller bodies of water, all unite with Saratoga County's famous Springs to form one vast vacationland and one great health resort. If a more specific tie between these two southern coun- ties and the other nine is sought, it could be mentioned that Otter Creek rises in Bennington County before it crosses Rutland and Addi- son counties to Lake Champlain; while the northern section of the Hudson is important to Essex and Warren, as well as Saratoga. Military history also provides connecting links. The importance of the Champlain Valley in determining Burgoyne's destiny was over- whelming. To a certain extent the great battle of Saratoga was decided by events in the Champlain area. In addition we should not overlook the part played by Bennington County in achieving patriot success on that battlefield. Bennington was also thoroughly involved
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in the disputes over land grants. To these settlers, as to those in the northern counties, Ethan Allen was a patron saint. Further- more, all of the western tier of Vermont counties were at one time included in the original county of Bennington. The two counties of Saratoga and Bennington may not border on the two lakes that com- prise this study, but there is no question but that they belong to that unit.
In 1664, Charles II of England granted a charter to his brother James, the Duke of York, under which the province of New York
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claimed to own territory as far as the Connecticut River. This included the present county of Bennington and, for that matter, all of the present area of Vermont. In 1683 all of this territory was included in the huge, original county of Albany in New York. In 1772 this was finally subdivided. The northern part of Bennington County was included in the newly created county of Charlotte, which extended to the Canadian border with the county seat at Skenesbor- ough; while the remainder continued as a part of the reduced county of Albany. In 1784 the name of Charlotte County was changed to that of Washington. By that time, however, it did not matter to the settlers what county New York placed them in. There is no need to repeat or reexamine the counter-claims of New Hampshire to
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the territory included in the present State of Vermont because they have already been discussed at length. In any case, New Hampshire felt that the Green Mountain territory belonged to her. When Vermont finally organized its own government in 1778 and cast aside the claim of New York, it created two counties running the entire length of the State and separated by the main range of the Green Mountains. The one in the east was at first known as Unity, but was changed the next year to Cumberland; while the territory west of the range was called Bennington. In 1780 it was reduced in size to its present limits. The northern remnant was called at first by the name of Washington, although this act of legislation was never recorded, while after 1781 it was known as Rutland County.
When Governor Benning Wentworth, of New Hampshire, began to issue grants of land in the disputed Vermont area, Bennington was the first to be issued, in 1749. It was named in his honor. Whether the granting of lands was primarily due to his desire for fees, or to the insistence of settlers, is difficult to determine, but other grants soon followed. In the violence that ensued between rival claimants, Bennington County played a leading part.
The choice of a county seat was a difficult one : both Manchester and Bennington insisting on obtaining this privilege. At one stage of the dispute an attempt was made to compromise by placing the county seat at Shaftsbury, which was centrally located. By this time, how- ever, both Manchester and Bennington were so wrought up by the controversy that neither would yield an inch. As a result, both were eventually designated as half-shire towns, with a courthouse and a jail in each.
First, alphabetically, among the towns of Bennington County, is Arlington, which is situated on the New York border and is sur- rounded on its three other sides by Sandgate, Sunderland and Shafts- bury. In the eastern section of the township is a range of rather high mountains running north and south. Extending westward from these peaks are three ranges of hills which decrease in size as they slope toward New York. Parallel with these three ridges are three val- leys, the largest being that of the historic Battenkill. The township, which was chartered by Wentworth in 1761, is six miles square. It was originally divided into sixty-eight equal shares. Each of the sixty-two original proprietors was awarded one share. Of the six
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shares remaining, one was reserved for the support of schools; one for the first settled minister; one for the Church of England; one for the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts ; while two shares were reserved for the obliging Governor himself. It is interesting to note that when fifty families were settled, the inhabi- tants could hold two fairs each year and a market day each week. The charter also provided that the rental for the township should, for the first ten years, be fixed at one ear of Indian corn annually, while after that each proprietor should pay annually one shilling for each hundred acres. The first town officers were chosen at Pownal in 1762; while the first settlement was made in the same year. In 1763, the proprietors voted to give bounties to the first ten people to settle in the township within a year's time.
Among Vermont's leaders who were in one way or another asso- ciated with Arlington was Remember Baker, who owned a gristmill in the eastern part of the town. By his vigorous opposition to the land claims of New York he had incurred the hatred of the Governor of that State, who had set a price on his head. As has been related elsewhere, a New York proprietor named John Munro, who lived in Shaftsbury, determined to collect the reward. Gathering together a gang of ten or twelve assistants, Munro descended upon the Baker household one Sunday morning in March, 1772. After breaking in the door, he attacked the entire family. Baker, his wife, and his son were all injured by sword cuts. The New Yorkers then bound their victim, threw him into a sleigh and hurried away toward the State line. They did not act quickly enough, however, for the Green Mountain Boys rallied rapidly and succeeded in rescuing Baker before Munro had time to reach the Hudson. Later Baker was involved in other episodes connected with the land dispute, and when the war with England arrived he was zealous in upholding the Colonial cause. In August, 1775, while doing some scouting for Montgomery's army near the Richelieu, he was shot and killed by Indians, who cut off his head and carried it in triumph to St. Johns, where it was placed on a pole. His blood is supposed to have been the first that was shed on Canadian soil in the Revolution. Although only thirty-five years old when he died, he ranked next to Allen and Warner among the Green Mountain Boys.
When the Revolution began, many of the settlers of Arlington became Tories. At the battle of Bennington men from this township
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fought on both sides; while, when Burgoyne surrendered, five or six residents of Arlington were found among the captives. Among the famous Vermonters who at one time or another resided in the town were Ethan Allen, Governor Thomas Chittenden and Matthew Lyon. Between the houses of the two last-named, in 1777, was constructed a vault which was used as a place of confinement for enemy partisans. The Governor and his Council met in Arlington several times. In addition, General St. Clair's army passed through the township in its circuitous flight to evade Burgoyne's might. At the time of the last census, the population of the town was 1,440. It is the home of Dorothy Canfield Fisher, the novelist.
Next we turn to the township of Bennington. We are inclined to agree with Henry D. Hall, who said fifty years ago that "perhaps the inhabitants of no town in the State of Vermont have wielded so great an influence in moulding its fair character, religiously and politically, as that of Bennington." It is peculiarly fitting that the first township erected in the State, named for the great Governor of New Hamp- shire who was a sort of spearhead for the early New England set- tlers, should be blessed with this distinction. As in the case of most communities of real historical importance, a summary here of the town's achievements would be, to a large extent, a repetition of facts presented elsewhere in this work. There is no reason to reproduce once more all the details surrounding the battle of Bennington. The material presented in this sketch is, in general, supplementary.
The township of Bennington is situated in the southwestern sec- tion of the county next to the New York border and separated from Massachusetts on the south by Pownal only. Its soil is more level and open than is characteristic of Vermont, although there are many graceful hills, and Mount Anthony is located in the southwest. Drain- ing it is the broad flat valley of the Walloomsac River. There are really two Benningtons. On rising ground, west of the village center, is Old Bennington, literally steeped in historical episodes, while along the river is the Bennington of today with its mills and smokestacks. The two Benningtons should not be confused.
In most respects the town's charter, dated in 1749 and issued in 1750, was similar to that of Arlington. In this case, however, there were sixty-four shares, sixty of which went mostly to residents of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, one being reserved for schools, one for the first minister, while Wentworth reserved two for his own
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needs. The first settlement was begun by Captain Samuel Robinson, of Hardwick, Massachusetts, who had, during the French wars, camped within the township, and had been particularly impressed with the land. His party arrived in town in 1761, having come on horse- back by the Hoosic forts and through Pownal. During the first year there was much suffering, but the settlers managed to endure the pri- vations. This same Samuel Robinson continued to be influential in the early life of the settlement, and went to London to represent the New Hampshire grantees in their efforts to combat the claims of New York to their territory. He received a favorable order from King George but died of smallpox in London in 1767. The first town meeting of Bennington was held in 1762. Financial inducements were promptly voted for the speedy erection of the mills that were urgently needed. This first town meeting also voted a bounty on snakes as follows: "Voted that any rattlesnake that is killed in Bennington shall be paid two coppers, the persons bringing in the tail." What these early settlers expected dead snakes to do with the premium we do not know, nor is it recorded why the inhabitants were expected to bring in the tails unless they were anxious to see the reptiles prop- erly remunerated. In justice, however, to the person who thus wrote the resolution into the minutes, it should be pointed out that these early settlers had many more serious problems than the intricacies of English grammar.
Probably no community was more closely associated with the activ- ities of the Green Mountain Boys than was Bennington. Seth Warner, one of the town's greatest figures, was captain of the company raised in this township. All the companies raised in Vermont were combined under the leadership of Ethan Allen, who held the rank of colonel. The men were known as Green Mountain Boys in derision of the threat of New York's Governor that he would drive the New Hamp- shire settlers into the Green Mountains. It will be recalled that the Vermonters did not take the law into their own hands until it had become evident that they could not obtain fair treatment of their land disputes in New York courts. After the ending of one court case the King's Attorney-General tried to convince Allen that his followers were foolish to fight the matter out, pointing out that might often prevailed against what was right. We can fancy how little this frightened Allen, and we can also imagine him chuckling inwardly as he replied laconically : "The gods of the valleys are not the gods of
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the hills." The attorney was unable to comprehend this figurative language and asked an explanation. The Green Mountain leader then told him that the answer would be clear if he would go to Ben- nington. In all probability, Allen's implications were understated, for we can imagine what the attorney's reception in this town would have been. The "Catamount Tavern" in Bennington was the regular meeting place of the Green Mountain Boys. This famous inn received its peculiar name from the fact that the proprietor had attached a stuffed catamount to the top of his sign. It was singularly appropriate that this animal with teeth bared should have been placed so that it stood grinning as it faced hostile New York. One of the favorite and unique punishments inflicted by the Green Mountain Boys on their enemies was known as "viewing." This consisted of being tied in an arm chair, and hoisted up to the Catamount sign twenty-five feet in the air, there to be exposed to the public view and, one may add, vilification. This method of punishment is said to have been quite effective. In 1771 the New York sheriff, Ten Eyck, led a force of three hundred men against the "Bennington mob" to seize a farm. The Green Mountain Boys were not to be intimidated, however, and rallied with pitchforks, clubs, swords and all manner of weapons. When the two groups finally met, Ten Eyck studied the situation closely and finally decided, with good judgment, to retrace his steps toward Albany without bloodshed.
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