USA > Washington DC > Washington DC > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 39
USA > Virginia > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 39
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" Mountains are the mothers of minerals," and the country from the Blue Ridge to the Ohio river, fully verifies the truth of the aphorism. Al- though this district has as yet, but slightly attracted the notice of the scien- tific mineralogist, inany of these useful metals and fossils have - been discovered, and in some instances brought into extensive use. ,Iron is found in abundance on the waters of the Potomac, Shenandoah, James, Jackson and the Roanoke rivers, and at many places on the upper branches of those streams, is manufactured to great extent, and with corresponding advantage; on New river, or the Upper Kanawha and its tributaries, this valuable mineral abounds, and of the best qualities ; it is also found in very encouraging quantities and exhibiting fine appearances, convenient to the waters of the Great and Little Kanawhas, Monongahela, Elk, Gauley, Guyandotte and Sandy rivers. The ores which have been discovered, pre- sent almost every variety, but those apparently most abundant, are the com- pact brown ore, the brown hematite, and specular ores.
The salt district of Virginia, passing west of the Alleghany range, and nearly in a parallel course with those mountains, furnishes this important article in greater or less abundance, in the counties of Harrison, Lewis, Kanawha and Washington. In the two latter counties, however, are situ- ated the principal manufactories; that of Kanawha, supplying about one million and a half of bushels per annum, and the Washington works about 100,000. An analysis of the Kanawha water, gives 35 mur. of lime-2 car. of iron-1 free car. acid-56 chloride of sodium and bromide of cal- cium-and 956 moisture.
The water used in the manufactory of salt in the county of Washing- ton, contains less of the muriate, and more of the sulphate of lime, and a larger portion of the chloride of sodium. Lead of considerable quantities was long since discovered in the county of Wythe, and was formerly much used in commerce, but owing to the expensive land carriage which had to be encountered in conveying it to market, and to the opening lead mines more favorably situated on the Mississippi, those of Wythe have in a great measure fallen into disuse.
Extensive beds of exifrangible gypsum are found on the upper branches of the Holston, but are comparatively useless from the want of convenient and cheap lines of transportation; and the same remark applies to the quarries of very superior buhr stone, situated near Christiansburgh, in the county of Montgomery. :
The coal formation of the western part of Virginia, is limited on the Kentucky border, to the country lying between the Cumberland range, and the Ohio river-extending to the northeast, the coal district spreads from the Ohio, as far eastwardly as the neighborhood of Westernport on the Potomac. Throughout this entire tract of country, bituminous coal pre- sents itself in great abundance, in beds varying in thickness, from a few inches to 12 and 15 feet; attended every where by micacious sand-stone, conglomerate rocks, and clay slate, the latter abounding in vegetable im- pressions. At the salt wells on the Great Kanawha, as well as at many natural springs within the coal region, naptha is found floating on the sur-
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face of the water in considerable quantities. Anthracite Coal, to which Pennsylvania is indebted for the rapid extension of many of her important manufactories, as well as the great enlargement of her interior commerce, has been recently discovered in the counties of Berkley and Morgan. Still more recent researches have ascertained the existence of this valuable mineral, apparently in extensive bodies, in the counties of Rockingham and Augusta, from which it is probable that the great Valley of Vir- ginia will ere long become as celebrated for the extent of its manufactories as it is now proverbial for its large agricultural products.
As this district undergoes more thorough examination, and its mineral resources become further developed, it will probably disclose as extensive masses of iron and coal in the same vicinities, as now distinguish South Wales; and although the bituminous coal may contain more volatile matter, . and less charcoal, than the Welch furnace coal, the value of the tar and pitch which it will yield, may more than compensate for the comparative - deficiency of carbon.
No quarter of the world presents a greater variety of mineral waters, than this portion of Virginia. Medicinal springs are almost as numerous as the counties, but it will suffice to notice those which have attracted the greatest share of public consideration, and which receive annually the greatest number of visitors. In the large limestone valley immediately west of the Blue Ridge, are the Berkley and Morgan springs, the Shenan- doah springs, the Augusta springs, and the Botetourt springs. They are usually attended by a respectable number of visitors, and the medicinal effects of the waters have given some reputation to each of those fountains. The county of Bath is distinguished by the Warm and Hot springs, situ- ated within five miles of each other, and upon the principal road leading east and west, through Virginia, the great bath at the Warm Springs is universally admired by all who have enjoyed the luxury of its tepid and buoyant waters.
This copious fountain of hydrosulphurous water, rises within the walls of the bath, and preserves a uniform temperature of 96° of Fr. The baths of the Hot springs differ in temperature, from 51º to 107º, and belong to the thermal saline class. These fountains may be justly placed at the head of the thermal waters of the United States, and from their use, the happiest effects have been produced in cases of chronic rheumatism and hepatic affections of long standing.
In the adjoining counties of Greenbrier and Monroe, are situated the White Sulphur, the Salt Sulphur, and the Red Sulphur Springs; they are classed as cold hydrosulphurous waters ; the first is peculiarly distinguish- ed for efficacy in cases familiarly denominated bilious and liver complaints ; the second for the removal of dyspepsia. and all affections of the stomach, whether connected with the state of the liver or not: the third has a high reputation from the peculiar influence which its waters exercise over pul- monary affections.
The Sweet Springs are also in the county of Monroe, near the eastern base of the Alleghany. This fountain, like the Berkley springs, is cold, acidulous or carborated, and yields a copious stream of the temperature of 73º of Fr. The Sweet springs have acquired a fashionable and well merited celebrity ; the water is believed to be particularly serviceable in the variety of the dyspepsia, accompanied by gastrodynia or spasm. In secondary debility of the digestive canal, from the exhausting heats of sum-
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mer, or in chronic diarrhea or dysentery, without fever, or not sustained by hepatic inflammation, the internal use of these waters have produced the happiest effects. These highly valuable fountains of health are so con- veniently situated as to enable the visitors to alternate their use, with great advantage and satisfaction ; and the several proprietors have so extended, their means of accommodating company, and added so many comforts and beauties to their respective establishments, that they are now annually at- tended by a large concourse of fashionable people from the valley of the Mississippi, and from the middle and southern States, as well as by inva- lids from almost every quarter of the Union. A Spring on Muddy creek, in Greenbrier county, heretofore visited by but few persons, as the' accommodations have been very limited, is beginning to attract much pub- lic interest from the highly salutary influence which the waters have pro- duced in aggravated cases of scrofula. The favorable results experienced by persons suffering under this afflicting and inscrutable disease, induced a number of gentlemen in 1833, to unite in the purchase and improvement of the property; and measures are now in progress for erecting extensive and convenient buildings, and for giving to this spring as many attractions as are found at the most fashionable medicinal fountains.
Many natural curiosities of an interesting character are to be found be- tween the Blue Ridge and the Ohio. Those most known are Weyer's and Madison's Caves, near the Shenandoah river, and about two miles from Port Republic. These wonderful caverns are both subterranean openings in the same limestone hill. 'The first has been explored to the distance of 900 yards, and the latter has been penetrated to the depth of 120 yards. Madison's cave has been much disfigured by the manufacture of salt- petre, to which it was for some time appropriated. Weyer's cave is how- ever in a fine state of preservation ; the entrance is narrow, but the cavern enlarges as it advances under the hill, until some of the apartments present an extent of floor equal to 300 by 200 feet, with majestic ceiling springing to the height of 80 and 90 feet. The drippings of this cave are not suf- ficient to affect the lights which are necessary to its examination, or to in .. commode the visitors. The deposits of lime dissolved in the water, forms stalactites of almost every shape, and of every variety of beauty-curtains descending in wave-like folds from the ceiling to the floor-plain and fluted columns-colonades, various resemblances of household furniture, and marble statues, which require but little imagination to give thein fair proportions, and the habiliments of the ancient Romans, are among the pleasing objects with which the sight of the visitor is regaled ; the colors are for the most part white, but sometimes red, and occasionally variegated. When illuminated, the cave presents one of the most magnificent scenes in nature. There are two other caves in this limestone district that are as yet but little known, but are said to be equal if not superior in beauty and magnificence to Weyer's cave. One of these is called Allen's Cave-the other is near the top of a small mountain called Cave Hill, situated one mile west of Luray, (county seat of Page.) Allen's cave is situated in Shenandoah county, a short distance from Front Royal. Descriptions of these caves will be found in the counties in which they are located.
The Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek, in the county of Rockbridge, which rises 270 feet; the Natural Tunnel, in Scott county, and the grand and majestic scenery at and around Harper's Ferry, attract visiters from considerable distances. The Blowing cave, near the Cow Pasture river,
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which constantly sends forth a strong current of air: and the ebbing and flowing, or Syphon spring, on the estate of the late Capt. John Lewis, in "the same valley, are objects of examination with most of the investigating travellers who visit that part of the State. On the low grounds of the Great Kanawha, about seven miles above Charleston, are several fissures in the earth through which constant streams of carburetted hydrogen gas are discharged. These are called burning springs, as the earth is so de- pressed around them as to collect and retain the water in ordinary seasons, and which is kept in active ebulition by the gas which is discharged through it; when inflamed, this gas burns with a pale blaze at the surface of the water, when it mixes with the atmosphere, until it is extinguished by a strong current of air. This is by no means a rare production of nature in this district, as considerable issues of it are found on Big Sandy, and Little Kanawha rivers, and in boring for salt water on the Great Ka- nawha, the discharges of carbureted hydrogen have been so great and con- tinued, as to compel in one instance, the abandonment of the work.
That part of the Great Kanawha which is above the mouth of Gauley, having to search its intricate way, and force its passage through a chain of lofty and rugged mountains, exhibits a series of the most stupendous cliffs from the mouth of Greenbrier to Gauley river, particularly where Gauley mountain is riven to its base by this stream in its passage to the Ohio; at this point, and near the great western turnpike, those cliffs present them- selves frequently to the eye of the traveller in majestic grandeur. One of the most lofty and perpendicular was formerly designated by a hawk's nest on its side, but is now called " Marshall's Pillar," commemorative of the laborious and perilous voyage of the Chief Justice in his examination of this river in 1812. From the flat rock forming the summit, to the agitated waters below, the view is fearfully grand : few of the many who visit it, can look over this dizzy height but in a reclining position ; the elevation is estimated by engincers at from 750 to 800 feet, but no actual admeasure- ment has yet been made.
The sparse population of many parts of the country, has heretofore pro- duced its usual effects in relation to education ; schools however have been annually multiplying, and with the aid afforded by the literary fund, pri- mary instruction is generally diffused, and becoming more elevated in its range. Well organized academies are established in many of the coun- ties, and those of Frederick, Augusta, Washington, Greenbrier, Kanawha, and Harrison, particularly deserve notice. Washington College in Rock- bridge, justly ranks among the most useful and distinguished of the south- ern seminaries. It received a mnost serviceable addition to its funds by a devise from Gen'l George Washington, which was followed by a be- quest of a large estate from Mr. John Robinson, one of its early patrons, and more recently a donation of the funds of the Cincinnati society of Virginia. Thus liberally founded, and supplied with able professors, this institution contributes largely to the learning and intelligence of the country.
Commercial roads and navigable canals are greatly wanted. As yet the government of Virginia has comparatively done but little towards improv- ing the rivers and roads of this district. Among the works constructed under the direction of the State, is the James and Kanawha turnpike, leading from Covington to the town of Guyandotte on the Ohio, and to the mouth of Big Sandy river. This road passes by, or near, the principal
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mineral springs west of the Alleghany ; the work is approaching comple- tion on the western end, and its extension is in progress eastward by the Hot and Warm Springs to the town of Staunton in Augusta. Incomplete as the work is, this road forms one of the most important avenues of inter- course between the eastern and western waters; it is much used in ordi- nary travelling, and in the transportation of property; and at this time daily lines of stage coaches find full employment upon the route. They are connected in the conveyance of passengers with the steam boats of the Ohio, and those of the James and Potomac rivers. On the western end, even this provision for the accommodation of passengers has been found insufficient, and a tri-weekly line has been added between the Ohio river and the White Sulphur Springs, during the visiting season. Under the direction, and with the funds of the State, a like road has been located from Winchester to Parkersburgh, on the Ohio, which when finished will con- fer important advantages on the northwest counties.
'To a joint stock company aided by the State, the Valley of Virginia has been much indebted for the improvement of the navigation of Shenan- doah river. The work undertaken by the company has been so far com- pleted, as to draw to that river an accession of trade which has increased the tolls from $604 in 1827 to $7,691 in 1831-continuing to improve with each succeeding year. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal, although passing up on the north side of the Potomac, confers important advantages on the northern border of the State, and will as it advances westward still further invigorate and extend the agricultural industry, and enlarge the commercial operations of the Virginia counties within its influence. These works undertaken, or fostered by the commonwealth, however use- ful, are but of minor character when compared with the important enter- prize on which the government of Virginia has long deliberated, of draw- ing a fertilizing portion of the commerce of the Western States, to her eastern cities. Of this enterprize so long meditated and so fully discussed, we find the following account given in a memorial addressed to the General Assembly in 1826. " The Legislative Declaration, that next to the enjoy- ment of civil liberty itself, it might be questioned whether the best organ- ized government could assure to those for whom all governments are in- stituted, a greater blessing than an open, free and easy intercourse with one another, by good roads, navigable rivers, and canals ; that their ten- dency, by extending commerce, promoted the agriculture of a nation, and thereby augmented its wealth and population ;- satisfied us that these great interests of Virginia were no longer to be neglected, and thatas many of the other States were advancing in wealth and numbers with a rapidity which had astonished themselves, the ancient and elder sister of the Union would remove the reproach of her remaining stationary."
"This manifest determination of the Legislature to improve the vast ad- vantages possessed by the commonwealth, seemed to be based on consid- erations of so fixed and durable a character, that but little doubt was en- tertained by your memorialist of the achievement of the great work of connecting the eastern and western waters of Virginia, by navigable canals and turnpike roads of the most permanent construction, when water con- veyance was unattainable, this measure had entered largely into the views of the proprietor of the land on which the City of Richmond and the town of Manchester now stands, and as early as the year 1767, was adverted to by that distinguished individual, in his proposition for the sale of the
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lots of those towns, in strong and prophetic terms. The practicability and vast advantages of opening this line of communication to the western frontier of the middle colonies, were dwelt upon as matters of great inter- est to the future prosperity of Virginia. Our Washington was scarcely disen- gaged from the toils of the camp, when turning his capacious mind to the objects tending to promote and secure the public happiness, made a com- munication to Gov. Harrison, in which the incalculable importance of con- necting the eastern and western waters of Virginia, was enforced with zeal, and supported by considerations combining the present with the future, which must have resulted in the immediate undertaking of the work, but for the exhausted state of the Treasury. Our venerable Jeffer- son, partaking in the view of his distinguished friend, and equally desirous of improving and exalting his native State, made an effort to secure to this great work the influence and active direction of the father of his country ; deeming its magnitude sufficient to invite his superintendence, and its com- pletion the happiest monument of his retirement."
"The continued interest manifested by our citizens in almost every quar- ter of the State, and the improved condition of the Treasury, induced the Legislature in 1813-14 to organize a commission for exploring and re- porting on the practicability, utility and expense of effecting this long con- templated connexion, and for ascertaining the best means of securing to Virginia a due participation in the rich trade of the West. The report of our distinguished fellow-citizen, the Chief Justice of the United States, with that of other gentlemen designated with him to perform that duty. fully realized the previous anticipations, and furnished the strongest induce- ments for the execution of the work. The war with Great Britain, in which we were then engaged, however, compelled its postponement. The conflict over, the government of Virginia resumed this interesting sub- ject, and after various examinations of all its details by the most experi- enced engineers, and with the fullest development of all its branches, by an act bearing date the 17th February 1820, determined upon the execution of the entire work, from the tide water of James river to the confluence of the Kanawha and Ohio, providing by law fof the completion thereof in the following order. 1. To render the Great Kanawha navigable at all seasons of the year, for boats drawing three feet water, from the great falls to the Ohio river. 2dly. To improve the navigation of James river, from tide water to Pleasant's Island, by locks and navigable canals, affording at all seasons of the year, at least three feet depth of navigable water. 3dly To make the best road practicable, at an expense of $100,000, from the ; mouth of Dunlap's creek, to the great falls of Kanawha. 4thly. To make navigable locks and canals, from Pleasant's Island to Dunlap's creek, fur- nishing at least the same depth of water for the entire distance. A mea -. sure so important in its influence over the future destinies of the State; originating with the sages of the country, the fathers of the land; sustain- ed and approved by the wisdom of successive Legislative bodies; its prac- ticability demonstrated by the combined science of the best qualified engi- neers, could not but be regarded as irrevocably determined on ; the period of its completion to be lastened by all the resources of the commonwealth. Such were unquestionably the convictions of the Legislature of 1819-20, and of your memorialist."
Notwithstanding the previous determination of the Legislature, and the strong inducements presented for reanimated action on the part of the gov-
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ernment, eight years of plans and deliberations have passed by. One project after another has been proposed, considered and abandoned, while two short sections of canal on the margin of James river, and the abortive attempt to improve the navigation of the Great Kanawha, remains the monument of that indecision and procrastinating policy, which has stripped the commonwealth of her elevation in the family of States, and is so rapid- ly sending hes people to seek new homes, where the "blessings next to civil liberty" are not only proclaimed, but practically secured. While the pen is tracing these brief notes, the General Assembly is engaged in de- liberations upon this subject ; but whether their labors will result in another abortive attempt to put this work in progress, or in the provision of ade- quate means for its entire execution, on a scale of usefulness and durabili- ty, worthy of the ancient commonwealth, and commensurate to the advan- tages which it ought to confer on her sister States, is extremely doubtful .*
If Virginia should ever resume this great work with ardor and reason- able unanimity ; and pursue it with constancy of purpose to its final com- pletion, it must produce a new era in her history, and entirely change the destiny which now seems to await her.
Among the high considerations that so strongly prompt her to the em- ployment of her resources and credit in achieving this great work, the fol- lowing are perhaps the most prominent.
The certain participation in a large portion of the commerce of the west, the value of which is attested by the expenditures and efforts of other States to become partakers. The development of her exhaustless mineral resources, and the consequent extension of important manufactories into every section of the country. The giving to her agricultural and planting interests the highest stimulus-the creation of a rich and fertilizing inte- rior commerce, sustaining in return the most extensive foreign trade. The rapid increase of her population with the comfort and wealth which must attend them-and the speedy and permanent advance in the value of the entire landed property of the State. Those of a political character are scarcely less important. Its connecting influence upon the States them- selves and upon the two great divisions of Virginia, now hanging but loosely together, must be apparent to all, and if the Union is ever destined to crumble, such a line of intercommunication, with the connections and associations to which it must give rise, cannot fail to unite in the same des- tinies, the southern States, and those of the Great Valley of the Missis- sippi.
*Since this was written, the Legislature passed the act allowing the patriotic and enterprising corporation of Richmond to take $250,000, in addition to their previous subscription of $400,000, and taking the remaining $500,000 for the State ; by which acts the whole amount of $5,000000 is subscribed, which was necessary to secure the charter of the James River and Kanawha Company, and the successful prosecution of this great work ensured.
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