A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 60

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278

USA > Washington DC > Washington DC > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 60
USA > Virginia > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 60

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

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WESTERN VIRGINIA-SHENANDOAH.

surface of the earth. These petrifactions consist of toads, snakes, &c. in a state of entire preservation. The East and West Fort mountains terminate abruptly nearly opposite the town of Strasburg. The points opposite this place are the highest parts of the mountain, being about 1200 feet above the level of the river. The entrance or mouth of the Fort forins one of the most awful defiles in America. The space between the mountains is barely wide enough for a narrow road, which runs on the bank and sometimes in the bed of the large and rapid creek which rushes impetuously over the rugged surface of its channel. On each side of the road the mountain rises so per- pendicularly as to be entirely inaccessible. The East Fort mountain espe- cially exhibits the most magnificent scenery, and rock piled on rock, from base to top, without a shrub to break the view, and bids defiance to the ap- proaches of man. Here, in summer, may be seen great numbers of vul- tures basking in the sun, or with expanded wings inhaling the cooling breeze. In the caverns which are in this cliff, it is said these vultures re- main in a torpid state during the winter. There are some of the finest land- scape views from this mountain which can be imagined. At a point nearly opposite Woodstock, from the East Fort mountain, the South river presents the appearance of three distinct streams of water, crossing the valley from the western base of the Blue Ridge, to the foot of the Fort mountain. If an observer, station himself on the top of the East mountain, at the N. end, and look "down east" the beautiful valley of the South river is presented full to his view. The thrifty village of Front Royal with the adjacent country in- terspersed with elegant country villas, fertile farms and thick forests alter- nately meet the eye. If he look a little higher his horizon is bounded by the indented top of the Blue Ridge, which stretches N. and S. as far as the' vision can extend; its surface from base to summit is beautifully diversified with cultivated farms and sloping woodlands. If he look W. into the pro- found abyss below him, he recoils with horror from the awful sight. If he' station himself on the N. end of the West mountain, he has a full view of the valley of the North river. Strasburg, which is 4 miles distant, appears almost under his feet. At a distance of 7 miles, he sees Middletown, 5 miles further he sees Newtown, and at a distance of 20 miles he sees the large and populous town of Winchester,-its stately dwellings and towering steeples glittering in the sun. A great part of the county of Frederick is seen in full perspective. But one of the finest landscapes in Virginia, and perhaps in the world, is seen from a point on the West Fort mountain nearly oppo'- site Woodstock. Here, if the observer look towards "the far east," the " blue brow" of the North mountain, which stretches N. and S. further than the eye can view, appears to peep into the clouds and to tower above them, many of which actually sail below its summit. The fertile valley which lies between the North mountain and Woodstock, is seen so distinctly, that a person who is acquainted with the country, may designate most of the farms which are seen from this point, the view from which, extends over a country about 15 iniles in extent.

The town of Woodstock, which is about 5 miles distant, is scen so plain- ly, that the observer may count alnost every honse in that beautiful village. . Between Woodstock and the mountain (Fort) lies the rich valley which is. watered by the North branch of the Shenandoah. The river in its mean- derings approaches very near the mountain, and then retreats a considerable distance towards Woodstock, where after making a turn it suddenly returns, to the mountain without the bend at either place being perceived. Thus it

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alternately approaches the mountain and recedes from it, until it presents the appearance of seven distinct rivers running parallel to each other.

The river at this place, is about 150 feet in width, and fornis a beautiful sheet of water which sparkles in the sun like a stream of silver. The space which is enclosed by each bend of the river is, apparently about large enough for a beautiful farm, and the bottoms being abundantly fertile, the whole scene presents one of the most picturesque landscapes in the world. Shenandoah is an Indian name, signifying clear water, and like most of the Indian names is very appropriate, these rivers being remarkable for their transparent waters. In 1831 part of this county which lies between the Blue Ridge and the Massanutten mountain was taken off, and with a small . part of Rockingham county, formed into a new county called Page. When the county was first settled, about the year 1735, its population was com- posed principally of Irish and Scotch; but few of their descendants are now found within it, as the county became more settled, they were supplanted by Germans from Pennsylvania,-and the greater part of its population, now consists of their descendants. They are a plain, frugal and industrious people. A few years since the German language was very much spoken and taught in the schools, but it is now rapidly giving place to the English, which is now universally taught in all the schools.

Population in 1820, 18,926-in 1830, 19,750. By the separation of Page the population is reduced to 14,000. This county belongs to the 14th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $3,506 09-in 1834, on lots, $253 33-land, $2,479 68-984 slaves, 8246 00-5,575 horses, $334 50-22 studs, $128 00-23 coaches, $53 00-27 carryalls, $27 00 -16 gigs, $12 65. Total $3,534 16. Expended in educating poor chil- dren in 1832, $1,512 16-in 1833, $827 29.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

ALLEN'S CAVE. In the county of the beholder is struck with the singu- Shenandoah, a short distance from the lar beauty and regularity of the mag- town of Front Royal, is Allen's Cave, nificent arch, which is composed of which may with propriety, be styled a great natural curiosity. It is situat- ed on the right bank of the Shenan- doah, about a quarter of a mile from

solid lime. The cavity here is about 10 feet in width and 30 in height. Proceeding some distance, it becomes very narrow and so low, that it is ne- the river, in the side of a hill of con- cessary to stoop much in order to ad- siderable elevation. 'T'he face of the country in its vicinity, is romantic in vance. Upon emerging from this narrow defile, the admirer of the the extreme, being a thick forest of works of nature, is presented with one oak, pine and cedar, interspersed with of the most magnificent scenes which ledges and cliffs of limestone.

the fancy can imagine. He finds The entrance into this cavern is by a gradual descent of about 45°. The mouth is about 5 feet in width and 15 himself ushered into a vast room, the extent of which, from end to end, is more than 150 feet, and of very con- in height. After proceeding about 60 siderable width. The height of the feet, the explorer reaches what may roof or ceiling, varies from 10 to 50 be termed the vestibule of this grand or 60 feet, forming some of the finest work of nature, after which the floor arches that the eye ever beheld. The becomes comparatively level. Upon ceiling and walls of this apartment, looking back, towards the entrance, which is called Sarah's saloon, are

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covered with sparry incrustations |extremity of the cavern. This cham- which have been formed by the ber which is called the Sylph's dress- drippings of the water from the roof. ing-room, is about the size of the sa- In some places, they have the appear- ance of pendant icicles; in other places they bear a strong resemblance to the folds of drapery, and appear to hang in festoons which art can neither ri-

loon, with a lofty ceiling of sparry concretions,-once clear as crystal- now rendered dingy by the smoke. It has several outlets, too small to ad- mit the body of a man ; but it is pro- val or imitate. In some places the sparry stalactites resemble the most bable that if they were enlarged, they might lead to other rooms in this sub- beautiful sculpture, at one point pre- terraneous abode, which it is possible senting the image of a magnificent and even probable, may extend to the river. Near the Fairy's bath, is a narrow passage, which turns to the

. pillar or colossal statue, at another the curved and wavy appearance of a cataract in miniature. If a piece of right, called the labyrinth. After va- the spar be thrown into a crucible or rious mazes and intricate windings even into a hot coal fire, it fuses, and under low arches, so contracted in becomes as transparent as glass.

breadth as to admit only one person abreast, the winding ceases, and the explorer finds himself in a straight jpassage, about 40 feet in length, 3 in

It is, however, to be regretted, that the most beautiful specimens of the spar have been abstracted by the numerous visiters; and that, the walls breadth, and 7 in height, and which, and roof of Sarah's saloon, which without doubt, forins one of the most were once of the most glittering trans-|beautiful, regular and symmetrical parency, have been blackened by the arches in the world. Issuing from smoke of the pine torches, which have this passage the explorer finds him- been used in exploring it. Upon |self in the ball room, which is decid- leaving the saloon, it becomes neces- fedly the best room in the cave. The sary to ascend about 12 or 15 feet length is 160 or 170 feet, and the

perpendicular, which is done by means of a ladder, at the top of which is a small room which is evidently breadth at least 30 feet. Here, too, as in the other rooms, the hands of vandal visiters, have torn off the the highest and yet the closest apart- beautiful spar from the , wall, thus ment in the cave, as the candles burn less freely here, than in any other part of the cavern. On speaking, or having robbed the cave of its glitter- jing ornaments, and deprived posteri- ty in a measure, of one of the most striking with the . hand against the magnificent scenes that ever met the wall the sound is increased to an as- eye of man. The floor is of soft clay tonishing loudness. At the farther and remarkably level and smooth. Here, before the invention of dandies, tights,corsets,balloon sleeves, prunella slippers, large combs and leghorn flats, the beaux and belles of by-gone days met, and held social parties, and while " mingling in the giddy mazes extremity of this upper apartment is a reservoir of water of a circular shape, about 5 feet in diameter and 4 in depth, called the Fairy's bath, and within a few feet of the bath, is a small basin called the Fairy's wash-bowl,-both

formed in the solid rock and full of of the sprightly dance," the foot and water of the most limpid clearness. hand kept time with the clarionet and violin; and the merry song, the wild music, the free jest, the witty retort After leaving this place, the passage forks. That passage which leads straight forward, passes through some and the hearty laugh, all telling of small rooms and narrow defiles, until enjoyment, reached the remotest it reaches a large apartment, at the depths of this spacious grotto,-while

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pleased echo caught the sound, and[ a fine stream running entirely thro' reverberating from grotto to grotto, it called Passage creek, on which told the deities of the place, of the are situated many springs of pure water at various distances.

mirth and innocent amusement which were to be found in the ball-room of Allen's cave.

Even in these, our degenerate days, the cave is still visited by hun- dreds of persons who generally speak in terms of the highest praise of the wonders which they have seen in this subterranean world. The ex- tent of this cavern has never been ascertained-but it is supposed to be about 1200 fect.

CEDAR CREEK, P. O. 162 miles from R. and 83 from W.

FORTSMOUTH, P. O. 147 ms. from R. and 83 W. of W. This village is pleasantly situated in a narrow valley, and in the fork of the North and South branches of the Shenan- doah river, surrounded on the south and west by the Fort mountain. It contains several dwelling houses, 1 manufacturing flour mill, I saw mill, 1 distillery, and various mechanics. Population 30. There are in the im- mediate vicinity two houses of public worship, the one Baptist, and the oth- er free for all denominations. It is distant 25 ms. from Winchester and 18 from Woodstock. Fortsmouth derives its name from Powell's Fort, at the mouth of which it is located, and which is a great natural curiosi- ty,-the valley being formed by the Massanutten mountain, springing up on the west side of the Shenandoah river, commencing between New Market and Staunton, running south west and north east until it reaches a short distant below New Market,-it then breaks off into two mountains, the one running down the North and the other down the South branch of trious and economical habits.

MOUNT HOPE, P. O. 144 ms. from R. and 80 S. W. by W. of W.

MOUNT JACKSON, P. O. 157 ms. from R. and 113 W. of W. It con- tains 8 dwelling houses, I Presby- terian house of public worship, 1 common school, 1 mercantile store, 1 tavern, I tanyard, 1 smith shop, and 1 boot factory. The country around is a little broken, the soil gray and sandy, of ordinary quality, produc- ing Indian corn, wheat and oats tol- erably well.

STRASBURG, P. O. 153 ms. from R. and 89 W. of W., situated in the northern part of the county, on the North branch of the Shenandoah river, immediately on the main road leading from Woodstock to Winches- ter, 12 ms. N. of the former and 18 S. of the latter. This is a healthy and thriving village, containing 78 dwelling houses, 3 houses of public worship, (1 Presbyterian, 1 Lutheran, and 1 free for all denominations,) 3 schools, including an academy, (a handsome building with a valuable lot of land attached, on which has been erected out of the income an excellent house as a residence for the principal.) There are also 3 mer- cantile stores, 1 apothecary shop, 2 taverns, 1 stone and 1 earthen ware manufactory, 4 tanyards, 5 cabinet makers, I turner, 4 blacksmith shops, 1 plasterer, 3 bricklayers, 2 gun smiths, 5 tailors, 6 boot and shoe fac- tories, and 4 cooper shops. Popula- tion 470 persons; of whom 6 are regular physicians. The inhabitants are principally Germans, of indus-

the Shenandoah river. These two NEW MARKET, P. V., delightfully mountains form Powell's Fort, which situated in the great valley of Vir- receives its name from an individual ginia, between the Massanutten and North mountains, 120 ms. W. by S. who it is said was the first settler within the fort. This Fort, as it is of W. and 150 ms. N. W. of R., in called, is thirty miles in length, with ! lat. 38º 36' 30" N. and long. 1º 37'

To go b Đối Khối

TOMI TANT

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W. from W. It is a central point|doah river runs within a mile of the between the towns of Winchester town on the western side; and is na- vigable at high water for boats car- rying one hundred barrels of flour to the Plain Mills 2} miles above the town: but the navigation is some- what hazardous, as the river is pas- sable for boats of this burden only during a freshet. The Massanutten mountain on the east of the town presents a beautiful and unbroken view to the eye of an observer, free from any spurs, or secondary moun- tains, to obstruct his sight, for many miles in extent, presenting upon the whole a spectacle highly grand and picturesque. There is a cascade on this mountain about 3} miles from the town, which as it appears not to be embraced in any written account of the State, deserves to be noticed .- , It presents the curious spectacle of a beautiful sheet ef water falling from the height of fifty feet perpendicular. The large table rock over which the water falls is so perfectly level and smooth, that the water falls in an en- tire and unbroken sheet of several yards in width, which it retains until it strikes the bottom, sufficiently far from the perpendicular for a person to pass conveniently between that and the sheet of water, without dan- ger of getting wet. This falling sheet of water is so. perfectly trans- parent, that it may be seen for several hundred yards, glistening thro' the thick surrounding woods, presenting a beautiful spectacle. and Staunton, being 50 miles distant from either place. The main road leading from the counties of Pendle- ton and Hardy, eastward across Thornton's Gap in the direction of Fredericksburg, intersects the great valley road at this place. The town was founded about the year 1784. It is at this time three-fourths of a mile in length, containing above one hun- dred dwelling houses, with a popu- lation of 700 persons. The streets are remarkably level, straight and well laid out, bearing south 25 west, a direction nearly parallel with the Massanutten mountain and two miles distant from its base. There are 3 houses of public worship, viz. 1 Lu- theran, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist, 1 large and commodious brick acade- my, in which is taught all the branches of liberal and polite educa- tion, 1 book and job printing office, 5 stores, 3 taverns, 1 resident attor- ney, and 4 regular physicians .- There is perhaps no town in the state of the same size, where the mechani- cal pursuits are carried on to a great- er extent than in this. There are here in active and extensive opera- tion-1 manufactory of threshing machines, &c., 2 wheelwrights, 4 cabinet makers and house-joiners, 4 tanneries, 2 saddle and harness mak- ing establishments, 2 chair factories, 4 boot and shoe manufactories, 3 hat factories, 1 silversmith and jeweller, 1 coppersmith and tin plate worker, Among the rocks of this country are the blue and grey limestone, slates, sand-stone and burr-stone .- The adjacent country is fumed for its fertility, and is well adapted to the cul: ture of wheat, rye, Indian corn, and grass. No country can boast more of its healthy situation than this; in short nothing seems to be wanting to render it among the most desira, but a facility of access to market, 2 gunsmiths, 2 blacksmiths. 1 lock- smith, 1 sleymaker, saddle-tree maker, 1 diaper weaver, and 2 potte- ries, at one of which stone ware of a superior quality is manufactured. There are also in the vicinity 2 forges for the manufactory of pig metal into bar iron, both of which are at this time in active operation. The coun- try around abounds in iron ore of the ble sections of country in the State, best quality.

The North fork of the Shenan- and whenever that is given, it may

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be confidently predicted, that no part)S. W. of W. in lat. 38º 51' N. and of the United States will present long. 1º 34' W. of W. C., situated on greater rewards to enteprise and in- dustry. the main valley road 32 ms. S. S. W. of Winchester and about 1 mile W. of the North Fork of the She- STONY CHEEK, Or SHRYOCK, P. O. 162 ms. from R. and 105 S. W. of W., situated on Stony creek, near the North Fork of Shenandoah. The creek empties into the river one mile E. of this place. It is distant 8 ms. S. S. W. of Woodstock, and 35 in a similar direction trom Win- chester. This village contains 17 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 house of public entertainment, 1 rifle manufactory, and 1 blacksmith shop. Population 130 persons; of whom 1 is a physician. 'The land is fertile, producing well all the ordi- nary staples, and the county is thick- ly settled. Stoney creek is a bold nandoah river. It contains besides the usual county buildings, 118 dwel- ling houses, 3 houses of public wor- ship, (1 Lutheran, I Methodist and 1 German Reformed,) 1 Masonic Hall, I handsome brick academy, 3 other schools, and 2 sabbath schools, 1 printing office from which a weekly paper is issued, 5 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 3 tan yards, 4 saddlers, 2 hatters, 5 boot and shoe factories, 5 house joiners and carpenters, 3 wheelwrights and chair makers, 4 tailors, 2 smith shops, 1 earthen and 1 stone ware manufactory, 1 watch maker and silver smith, 1 wagon stream, affording some excellent sites maker, 1 tin plate worker, 2 saddle- for manufactories. There are locat- tree makers, 2 saddle-tree platers, 2 bricklayers and masons, and 2 plas- terers. Population 950 persons; of whom 3 are resident attorneys, and 4 are ministers and 3 regular physi- cians. ed on it, and within 2 miles of the village, at various distances, a consi- derable number of dwelling houses, 2 extensive manufacturing flour mills, 2 grist mills, 7 saw mills, 1 well es- tablished fulling mill, and 2 wool County Courts are held on the Monday before the 2d Tuesday in every month ;- Quarterly in March, May, August and November. carding machines, 1 still-house, 1 tannery, and 1 forge in active opera- tion, manufacturing pig metal into bar iron, and 1 furnace called Co- JUDGE SMITH holds his Circuit LUMBIA, with about 200 persons de- Superior Court of Law and Chance? pendant on it for support.

WOODSTOCK, P. V. and seat ber. of justice, 156 ms. from R and 100

ry on the 9th of April and Septem-

SMYTH.

SMYTH was created by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed from a portion of Washington and Wythe. It is bounded W. by Clinch moun- tain separating it from Russell,-N. W. and N. by the same mountain, separating it from Tazewell,-N. E. and E. by Wythe,-and by the Iron mountain separating it from Grayson S. E. and S. It is located on the head waters of Holston river. The eastern line dividing Smyth and Wythe crosses within fifty yards of the head spring. The county is divi- ded into three valleys,-the North, South and Middle Forks of the IIol- ston running parallel with the different valleys. The North Fork rises between Clinch and Walker's mountains, pursues a northerly course some

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distance, and then winds to the west. The mountains are lofty,-the bot- ·

tom lands are rich and productive. On this fork is found gypsum of the best quality, and sufficient in quantity to supply the whole western coun- try. In that neighborhood is situated the salt works belonging to Gen'l Preston. These works, and King's in Washington county, are denomi- nated Saltville,-they are within 40 feet of each other. The place has risen up in consequence of the salt works. The county line separating Smyth and Washington counties runs between them. (For further particulars see Saltville in this county.) An experiment lately made on the water of Preston's works was attended with complete success,-twenty bushels full produced a deposite of five bushels of salt, which weighed one hundred and fifty-one pounds, showing it to be' in proportion of one-fourth to the water which contains it. It is supposed that no other water ap- proaches this strength, and it is quite free from the slightest quantity of bittern or other foreign matter. From this supply five hundred bushels ot salt may be manufactured in twenty-four hours.

On the middle fork of the Holston are situated the Chilhowee Sulphur Springs, within one mile of the great road. They stand as high for the medicinal qualities of their waters as any spring in Virginia. There are also in the same vicinity several chalybeate springs. The productions are wheat, rye, Indian corn, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, hemp, flax, and every species of the vine; being one of the best grape counties in Vir- ginia. 'This county is well timbered with the best of white and black oak, buckeye, poplar, hickory, black walnut, lynn, pine, sassafras, dog ; wood, birch, beech, and the spice wood tree. Along the branches are elder of different qualities, spruce pine, and the hemlock tree. It also abounds with the maple or sugar tree. This tree is more valuable than all others ; if it is notched in the month of March, and bored with a small auger or gimblet some distance below the notch and a tube placed in, one tree will afford in a season from 30 to 60 gallons of sweet water, which when boiled will always produce from 3 to 4 pounds of good sugar, besides the molasses, which is superior to any other. The tops of these trees are large, taper- ing something like a sugar loaf, the bark is rough and body straight, some of them are of a light color, others black. The latter always produce the sweetest water. . Some of these maple trees grow to an enormous size, The wood is precious, and when cut and corded, one tree will make from 6 to 7 cords. The next in size is the yellow poplar, which exceeds in growth any timber in the United States. . It is no uncommon thing to find this timber from 3 to 4 feet and upwards in diameter, and the trunks 44 feet in height before a limb shoots. The white oak and other timber is in proportion.

There are in this county one cotton manufactory, (at the court house,) 3 iron works, 14 tan yards, 16 grist mills, 14 houses of public worship, (5 Methodist, 2 Presbyterian, 3 Baptists, 3 free for all denominations, and -1 Lutheran,) and 8 taverns or houses of public entertainment. The eleva- tion of Davis's town, situated 2 miles from the east line of the county, and on Pleasant Hill, is 200 feet above James River at Lynchburg. Popula- tion not taken at the last census, the county having been since created, but supposed to be between 6 and 7000, of which there are 100 free per- sons of color, and 1400 slaves. It belongs to the fourteenth judicial cir- cuit and eigth district. Tax paid in 1833, $941 57-in 1834 on land $572 04-470 slaves, $117 50 -- 2675 horses, 8160 50-20 studs, $123.50

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A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 60

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry Publication date: 1835 Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin Number of Pages: 1278

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278