A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 6

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278

USA > Washington DC > Washington DC > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 6
USA > Virginia > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 6

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

The most remarkable feature in the valley of the Great Kanawha, as a physical section, is relative height. At the mouth of Sinking creek, between Walker's and Peter's mountains, 120 miles by comparative courses below the sources, the water level is 1,585 feet above the Atlantic tides; at the mouth of Greenbrier 1,333, and at the mouth into Ohio 525 feet. Compar- ing the fall from Sinking creek to the mouth of Greenbrier 252 feet in 30 miles direct, that above Sinking creek must be 900 feet at least, conse- quently, the higher branches of New river, in Ashe county, must rise at a comparative height of upwards of 2,500 feet.

LITTLE KANAWHA, rises in Lewis county, and flowing N. W. by W., en- ters Wood, and falls into the Ohio, at Parkersburg, after a comparative course of 90 miles. The valley of this river is nearly commensurate with Wood and Lewis counties, and has that of Great Kanawha south, Middle Island creek to the north, and that of Monongahela, N. E. is 150 yards wide at the mouth. It yields a navigation of ten miles only; perhaps its northern branch called Junius' creek, which interlocks with the west fork of Monongahela, inay one day admit a shorter passage from the latter into the Ohio.

LITTLE river, of Montgomery county, rises in the western vallies of the Blue Ridge, and flowing to the N. W., about 25 miles comparative course, falls into New river, 12 miles S .. W. by W. Christiansburg.

MATTAPONY river has its extreme source on the eastern border of Orange county, near the Rapid Ann, about 25 miles westward Fredericksburg, but the most numerous of its creeks are in Spottsylvania. These unite within, and traverse Caroline, and thence forming a boundary between King Wil- liam and King and Queen, unite with the Pamunky, to form York river, after a comparative southeastern course of ten miles. The valley of the Mattapony lies between those of the Rappahannock and Pamunky, and is traversed by N. lat. 38° and the meridian of Washington.

MATIMAPUNG INLET, on the coast of the Atlantic, between Hog and Prout Islands, Northampton county. It opens into a sheet or small gulf, called Broad Water, 28 miles N. N. E. cape Charles, lat. 37° 20'.

MEHERIN river, of Virginia and North Carolina, deriving its most remote sources from Charlotte, but rising principally in Lunenburg and Mecklen- burg counties, and uniting on the western margin of Brunswick. Contin- uing its original course S. E. by E. over Brunswick and Greenville, and thence seperating a part of Greenville from Southampton, it enters North Carolina, between Northampton and Gates counties, and joins the Nottaway to form the Chowan, between Gates and Hertford counties. The entire comparative course of the Meherin is about 95 miles, but the valley is nar- row, not exceeding 20 miles width at any part, (mean width hardly 10,) area

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

about 900 square miles, lying between the vallies of Roanoke and Nottaway.

MONONGAHELA river, in Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania, is formed by Monongahela proper, 'T'ygart's Valley river, Cheat river, and the Yough- ioghany. The Cheat is in fact the main stream, having its remote source in the southern part of Randolph county, Virginia, at lat. 38º 27', interlock- ing sources with those of Green river, and Jackson's branch of James river. 'The remote sources of Tygart's Valley river, are nearly as far south as those of Cheat, and also in Randolph county. 'The mountain ridge from which both streams rise is known locally as Greenbrier mountain, and the valleys from which the higher sources are derived, must be at least 2,500 feet eleva- ted above tide water in Chesapeake bay.

Monongahela proper, is the western branch, rising in Lewis county, Vir- ginia, with interlocking sources with those of Tygart's Valley and little Kanawha. The three branches near their sources, pursue a general nor- thern course, but the two western, gradually approach each other, and unite at lat. 39° 28', where they form a point of seperation between Harrison and Monongalia counties. 'T'hence assuming a northern course over the latter county, finally leave Virginia, and form a junction with Cheat on the boundary between Fayette and Green counties, Pennsylvania.

The Cheat in the highest part of its course, flows along a mountain valley, in a northern direction, but gradually inclining to northwestward, as already noticed under the head of Cheat river. Below the junction of the main branches, the Monongahela, by a rather circuitous channel, pursues a gener- al northern course over Pennsylvania, about 50 miles, comparative length to its junction with Youghioghany, 11 miles S. E. of Pittsburg.

The Youghioghany is a considerable branch, having its remote sources in the western part of Alleghany county, Maryland. Flowing thence north wardly, enters Pennsylvania, and separating for some few miles, So- merset, from Fayette county, receives a large tributary from the eastward, Casselman's river, and turning to N. N. W. about 50 miles, comparative course, is lost in the Monongahela at MacKeesport. Augmented by the Youghioghany, the Monongahela below the junction, assumes the course of the former, 18 miles by the channel, but only 11 direct distance to Pittsburg, where it unites with the Alleghany to form the Ohio. The general course of the Monongahela is alnost exactly north, and almost as exactly along long. 3º W. Washington, 150 miles by comparative distance. The widest part of its valley lies nearly along the line between Pennsylvania and Vir- ginia, 80 miles; the mean width 40, and area 6,000 square miles.

If we allow only 1,500 feet elevation to the arable country on the head branches of Cheat, Pittsburg being elevated 678 feet, will give a descent of 822 feet to the valley of Monongahela. The extremes of lat. are thus almost exactly compensated by declivity, and explain why the seasons near Pittsburg and in Randolph county, Virginia, differ but slightly.

Though the two eastern branches, Cheat and Youghioghany, rise in mountain vallies, and the whole country drained by all the tributaries of Mon- ongahela is very broken and rocky, direct falls are rare and of no great ele- vation when they occur. Cheat river, is navigable through Monongalia and Preston, into Randolph county; both branches of Monongahela proper, above their junction, and Youghioghany to Ohio, have falls. The whole val- ley has gained recent increase of importance as being part of the route or routes of proposed lines of canal improvement.

Monongahela river is 400 yards wide at its mouth; at the mouth of the

OF VIRGINIA.

Youghioghaney 12 or 15 miles higher up, it is 300 yards wide; and continues of that width to the mouth of Cheat river, a distance of 90 miles by water, but only 58 by land. In this space the navigation is frequently interrupted by rapids, but are passable by boats when the river rises a few feet. From that point it admits light boats, except in dry seasons 65 miles further, to the head of Tygart's valley,-presenting only some falls of a few feet, and lessen- ing in width to 20 yards. The western fork is navigable in winter 10 or 15 miles, towards the northern branch of the Little Kanawha, to which a good wagon road might be made. The Youghioghany is the principal branch of this river. This branch passes through the Laurel mountain about 300 miles from its mouth, and is that far, from 300 to 150 yards wide, and the navigation much obstructed in dry weather by rapids and shoals. In its passage through the mountain the fall is very great, admitting no naviga- tion for ten miles to the Turkey Foot. Thence to the great crossing, about 20 miles, it is again navigable, except in dry seasons, and is at that place 20 yards wide. The sources of this river are divided from those of the Poto- mac by the Alleghany mountain. From the falls at which it intercepts the Laurel mountian to Fort Cumberland, the head of navigation on the Potomac, is 40 miles of very mountaneous road. Willis' creek, at the mouth of which was Fort Cumberland, is 30 or 40 yards wide, but beyond that, there is no navigation.

NANSEMOND river rises in Isle of Wight and Nansemond counties, but chiefly in the latter. It opens by a comparatively wide bay into Hamp- ton Roads, and is navigable for vessels of 250 tons to Sleepy Hole, for those of 100, to Suffolk, the county town of Nansemond, and for those of 25 tons to Milner's.

NOTTOWAY river, of Virginia and North Carolina, has its most remote source in Prince Edward county. Flowing thence S. S. E. between Not- taway and Lunenburg counties, between Dinwiddie and Brunswick, turns to eastward between Greensville and the western part of Sussex. Entering the latter, and first curving northward winds to S. E., and traversing Sussex and Southampton counties, receives Blackwater river from the north, and entering Gates county, North Carolina, bends to S. W. 10 miles to its junc- tion with Meherin, to form Chowan river. The entire length of Nottaway by comparative courses is 110 miles. The Nottoway valley is about 100 miles, by 20 mean width, comprising great part of Nottaway, Dinwiddie, Sussex, Surry, and Southampton counties, and a smaller part of Lunenburg, Brunswick, Greensville, Prince George, Isle of Wight, and Nansemond counties, and a minor part of Gates county, North Carolina.

OCCOQUAN river rises in Loudon, Fairfax, and Fauquier counties, tra- verses and drains the western part of Prince William county, and thence forming the boundary between Prince William and Fairfax counties, falls into the Potomac, about 25 miles below Washington City, and nearly oppo- site Indian Point. [Sce Prince William county.]

Onto forms the boundary of Virginia for 355 miles. It is in some re- spects the most remarkable river upon earth. The physical section of the earth drained by it lies between Jat. 34º 12' and 42º 27', and long. 1º and 12º west of Washington City. The course of the Ohio proper, from the sources of Alleghany to its junction with the Mississippi, is by calculation 59° 30' west, 680 statute miles.

The form of the valley of the Ohio approaches, in a very remarkable manner, that of a regular ellipse, of which a line drawn from its most north-

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

ern to its most southern sources, from Orleans creek, Cataraugus county, New York, to Bear Grass creek, Marion county, Alabama, 750 statute miles,-would be the transverse diameter, and another line extending from the Blue Ridge, where the sources of the Great Kanawha and those of Watauga branch of Tennessee rise, to the northwestern sources of the Wa- bash, 450 miles, would be the congugate axis. Measured by the rhombs following the elements in the following table, the area comes out more than 200,000 square miles:

Table of the extent in square miles of the valley of Ohio river:

Between lat. 34° and 35°

73 82 81 83 8

32,742

29,488 9,085

41 42

23 24 Rhombs, do. do. do. do. do. do. do.

square miles. 8,986 25,655 29,205 32,700 32,250

Aggregate extent in square miles, 200,111 Allowing the greatest length to be 750 miles, the mean width will be 267 very nearly, or the mean breadth amounts to within a trifling fraction of one-third of the greatest length, a compactness seldom equalled in rivers.

If the Alleghany is regarded as the primary and remote constituent of Ohio, this great stream rises by numerous creeks in McKean and Potter counties, Pennsylvania, and Alleghany and Cataraugus counties, New York. Becoming navigable near the line of demarcation between the two states, the stream, with partial windings, pursues the general course already stated, to its junction with the Mississippi, affording a natural navigable channel of between 1,200 and 1,300 miles. The opposing inclined plains of Ohio val- ley are of unequal extent, nearly in the proportion of two to three, the larger falling from the Appalachian system of mountains, and containing 120,000 square miles.

In their features also the two Ohio plains differ essentially. The south- eastern, declining from a mountainous outline, has a comparatively rapid slope. The most elevated table land from which the eastern tributaries flow, is that where rise the sources of Clinch, Holston, and Great Kanawha, about 2,500 feet. The Appalachian table land declines in relative elevation both to north and south of this nucleus, but there is no one part from the sources of Alleghany and Genesce to those of Tennessee and Coosa, through 7º of lat. but which exceeds 1,000 feet.

The clevation of Ohio at Pittsburg, where the Alleghany and Mononga- hela unite, is 678 feet, and that of the low water at the confluence of Ohio and Mississippi 283 feet; of course the Ohio below Pittsburg, has a fall of 395 feet in 948 miles, the length of the intermediate channel. The left tri- butaries must have, from the preceding data, a descent of from 1,000 to 2,200 feet. Down this rapid declivity, advancing from north to south, are found the streams of Clarion, Kiskiminitas, Monongahela, Great Kanawha, Sandy, Kentucky, Cumberland and Tennessee, and several of lesser Jength of course, whose sources do not reach the Appalachian vallies.

It may well excite surprise, that along this steep plain, direct falls are not frequent, and where they do occur are of moderate direct pitch.

OF VIRGINIA.

To an eye sufficiently elevated, and powers of vision sufficiently enlarged, the whole valley of Ohio would appear one immense declivity, falling very nearly at right angles to the general range of the Appalachian system, and the rivers would appear to have cut deep channels seldom in a direction cor- responding to the plane of general descent. .

Of these channels that of Ohio would appear as the principal. Per- sons competent have carefully measured the height of the hills, in the vicinity of Pittsburg, and found them about 460 feet above the low water level of the rivers, or 1,138 feet above the level of the Atlantic tides. Above Pittsburg to the hills, which rise like mountains from lake Erie, the ascent is at least 400 feet, and below Pittsburg the fall to the Mississippi has been shown to be 395 feet. Without therefore estimating mountain ridges, the great in- clined plain of Ohio has a descent of upwards of a foot to the statute mile, but what is something remarkable, the rivers, and particularly the Ohio it- self, do not fall gradually with the planes of their courses. The actual channel from Pittsburg to the mouth is 948 statute miles, and the fall 4,71G inches, or not quite five inches per mile.

'The waters in effect have abraded their channels, deeper toward their sources than in proportion to length of course. It is this circumstance which has contributed to give to the Ohio proper, the appearance of flowing in a deep and immense ravine. The difference of climate arising from dif- ference of level, frequently exceeding a degree of latitude in less than a mile, and radiated heat, with an exuberant alluvial soil, giving in spring a preco- cious vegetation along the river bank, have superinduced great misunder- standing respecting the temperature and seasons of this region.

Descending the Ohio, say from Pittsburg, the scenery along the banks and hills, is in an eminent degree picturesque and varied, but these fine fea- tures imperceptibly fade away, and long before reaching the Mississippi, to- tally disappear, and leave a narrow horizontal ring sweeping round the heavens, formed by the trees along the banks.

As a navigable channel, few, if any other rivers of the globe, equal the Ohio. In the higher part of its course, the navigation is annually more or less impeded in winter by ice, and in autumn by a want of water. Impedi- ment from ice prevails in all its course, but below the influx of Kanawha, drought is of less injury, and below the rapids at Louisville, in a com -. mercial point of view, removed by a navigable canal.

The four most important of all mineral productions abound in the Ohio valley, limestone, mineral coal, salt, and iron ore. Of all continuous bodies of productive soil on earth, if climate and fertility are combined, the valley of Ohio will, it is probable, sustain the most dense population. Not long since there did not exist upon its immense surface 20,000 civilized human beings. In 1831, it sustained about 3,000,000. Can the history of the world afford any parallel to such increase ?

PAMUNKEY river, the principal constituent of York river, is formed by Pamunky proper and North Anna. The latter rises in Orange, the nor- thern part of Louisa and in Spottsylvania counties, and flowing thence southeastward unites with the Pamunkey, between Caroline and Hanover counties.

The Pamunky rises in the S. W. mountain, on the border between Al- bemarle and Louisa; drains the southern and central part of Louisa, and traversing Hanover, joins the North Anna. Below their junction, the uni- ted waters, known by the name of Pamunky, preserve the original course 7

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

southeastward, about 45 miles comparative course, (but perhaps double that distance by the bends,) to its junction with Mattapony to form York river. The entire comparative length of Pamunkey, by either branch, is about 90 miles. The broadest part of the valley but little exceeds 30 miles, and is only about 15 mean width, area 1,300 square miles, lying between those of James and Chickahominy on the right, and Mattopony on the left.

PIG river, rises in the southeastern slope of the Blue Ridge, and flowing thence eastward, between Black water and Irvine rivers, traverses and drains the central part of Franklin county, and entering Pittsylvania, turns to E. and falls into Roanoke, after a comparative course of 35 miles.

POCATALICO .- This river has its sources near the northern boundary of the county of Kanawha, and flows through a body of forest land finely tim- bered: much of it fertile, and sufficiently level for advantageous cultivation. The alluvial lands on its borders, are generally rich, and of width suffi- cient to form good farms. Pocatilico discharges itself into the Great Kanawha, 20 miles below Charleston, and forty miles above the mouth of the latter river; it is navigable by batteaux, which ascend from 20 to 30 miles, and during the winter and spring months, large and heavy loaded boats may descend with safety, as also rafts of timber of various descriptions. Extensive beds of rich bituminous coal, are found near the Pocatalico, and its branches, and iron ores apparently of good quality, are often dug out of the hills.

POTOMAC river, of Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania. This river above Blue Ridge, is formed by the north branch, distinctively called Poto- mac, Patterson's river, South Branch, Cacapon, Back creek, Opequhan and Sheandoah, from the southwestward, and by a series of bold, though com- paratively small streams from the northward. 'The stream to which the name of Potomoc is first applied, rises in the Alleghany chain, opposite to the sources of Cheat and Youghioghany branches of Monongahela, at lat. 39º 10' long. from Washington city, 2º 30' W. Flowing thence N. E. 30 miles, receives from the north, Savage river, and bending to S. E. 10 miles, traverses one or two minor chains of mountains, and returning to N. E. 18 miles to the influx of Will's creek, from the north at Cumberland. Now a considerable stream, by a very tortuous channel, but direet distance 15 miles to S. E., the Potomac below Cumberland, breaks through several chains of mountains to the influx of South Branch. The latter is in length of course, and area drained, the main branch. The various sources of this mountain river originate in Pendleton county, Virginia, lat. 38º 25', be- tween the Alleghany and Kittatinny chains. Assuming a general course of N. E., the branches unite in Hardy county, near Moorfields, below which, in a distance comparative course of 40 miles to its union with the N. Branch, the South Brauch receives no considerable tributary. The volume formed by both branches, breaks through a mountain chain immediately be- low their junction, and bending to N. E. by comparative distance of 25 miles, but by a very winding channel reaches its extreme northern point at Hancock's town, lat. 39º 41', and within less than two miles south of the southern boundary of Pennsylvania. Passing Hancock's town the Potomac again inflects to S. E., and as above winds by a very crooked channel, but by comparative course of 35 miles to the influx of Shenandoah from the southward.

الات

OF VIRGINIA.

Shenandoah is the longest branch of Potomac, having a comparative length of 130 miles, and brings down a volume of water but little inferior to that of the main stream. It has its most remote sources in Augusta county, Virginia, interlocks sources with those of Great Calf Pasture branch of James river, and by Blue Ridge, is separated from those of Rivan- na, as far south as lat. 37º 55', almost exactly due west of the cutrance of Po- tomac into Chesapeake bay. The elongated valley of Shenandoah is part of the great mountain valley of Kittatinny, and comprises nearly all the counties of Augusta, Rockingham, Page and Shenandoah, with the eastern sections of Frederick and Jefferson. 'The upper valley of Potomac, inclu- ding that of Shenandoah is in length from S. W. to N. E. 160 miles, where broadest 75 miles, but has a mean breadth of 50 miles, area 8,000 square miles. The water level of Potomac at Harper's Ferry is 288 feet above tide water; therefore we may assume at 350 feet the lowest arable dand in the valley above the Blue Ridge. This is equivalent to a degree of latitude on the aerial temperature at the lowest point of depression. So rapid is the rise, however, in crossing the valley to the foot of Alleghany mountain, that an allowance of 1,200 feet is rather too moderate an estimate for the extremes of cultivated soil.

Passing the Blue Ridge, with partial windings, the Potomac continues S. E. by comparative courses 50 miles to the lower falls and head of ocean tides at Georgetown. Having in the intermediate distance received the Monocacy river, from the north, and some minor creeks from the south ; like the Delaware, below Trenton, and the higher part of Chesapeake bry, below the mouth of Susquehannah the Potomac, meeting the tide, bends along the outer margin of the primitive rock. It is indeed very remarka- ble that the three bends, in the three consecutive rivers, follow almost ex- actly the same geographical line: or flow from head of tide water, S. W .- the Delaware 60, Chesapeake 40, and Potomac 45 miles,-the latter a few miles below the place at which it retires from the primitive rocks, reaches within six miles of the Rappahannock, below Fradericksburg. The two latter rivers not far from parallel to each other, assume a comparative course 75 miles to the N. E., the intermediate peninsula being no where above 22 miles wide, and the distance from the south side of the mouth of the Poto- mac, to the north side of that of the Rappahannock, is only 20 miles.

Combining the two sections above and below the Blue Ridge, the whole basin of the Potomac embraces an arca of 12,950 square miles, extending from lat. 37° 50' to 40°, and in long. 0° 45' E. to 2º 45' W. of Washington city. The winding of its tide water channel renders the navigation of the Potomac bay (for such it is below George Town,) tedious though not dan- gerous. The channel has sufficient depth to admit ships of the line of 74 guns to the navy yard at Washington.

With its defects and advantages as an agricultural and commercial sec- tion,-the basin of the Potomac is a very interesting object in physical and political geography ;- deriving its sources from the main Appalachian spine, the Potomac has worn its channel through the intervening chains to their bases; and performed an immense disproportion of the necessary task to effect a water rout into the valley of the Ohio,-such a rout has been commenced under the name of Chesapeake and Ohio canal, and is yet in progress. The Potomac is eight miles wide at its mouth, four and a half at Nomony bay, three at Acquia, one and a half at Hollooing point, and one and a half at Alexandria.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

Its soundings are seven fathoms at its mouth, five at St. Georges island, four and a half at Lower Matchodie, three at Swan's point and up to Alexan- dria, thence 20 feet of water to the falls, which are 13 miles above Alexan- dria. These falls are 15 miles in length, and of very great descent, and the navigation above them for batteaux and canoes is so much interrupted as to be little used, It is however used in a small degree up the Cohongoronta branch as far as Cumberland, at the mouth of Wills's creek; and is capable of being made navigable at no grerat expence. The Shenandoah branch interlocks with the sources of James river, near the Blue Ridge.

RAPPAHANNOCK river, formed by two branches, Hedgeman's and Thornton's rivers, both deriving their remote sources from Blue Ridge. Hedgeman's river, after a comparative course of 30 miles, between Fauquier and Culpeper counties, receives Thornton's river from the latter, and the united waters continuing the course of the former S. E. 20 miles, join the Rapid Ann. A navigable river at the junction of its two main branches, the Rappahannock, continues to the S. E. 10 miles to its lowest falls, where it traverses the primitive ledge, and meets the ocean tides at Fredericksburg. Similar to the Delaware, and all the large western tributaries of Chesapeake bay, the Rappahannock turns after passing the primitive rock, but after a short curve to the southward, this stream resumes a S. E. course, which with a rather tortuous channel it maintains to Leeds, in Westmoreland county, where it approaches to within five miles of Potomac, at the mouth of Mat- tox creek. Gradually widening, and with the features of a long, narrow bay of 55 miles, the Rappahannock by a S. S. E. course, is lost in Chesa- peake bay between Windmill and Stingray points. The tide ascends this channel to the falls at Fredericksburg, something above 100 miles, admit- ting vessels of considerable tonnage. In all the distance below the union of its two main branches, it does not receive any accession above the size of a small creek. The entire basin is 140 miles by a mean width of 20; area 2,800 square miles. Extending in lat. from 37° 34' to 38º 44', and in long. from 0° 41' east to 1º 22' west of Washington.

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A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 6

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry Publication date: 1835 Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin Number of Pages: 1278

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278