A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 50

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278

USA > Washington DC > Washington DC > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 50
USA > Virginia > A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia > Part 50

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WESTERN VIRGINIA-KANAWHA.

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terrific agents-a volume of flame suddenly burst through the orifice, and ascending far above the earth's surface, spread terror and amazement in the neighborhood. The less enlightened and superstitious, of course, fancied that the profane gentleman's threats had been really carried into execution, and that the contents of the awful and undefinable pit had been actually disgorged upon mother earth. >

"This charming country is not only rich in beautiful and picturesque scenes, but abounds in objects interesting to the naturalist and antiquarian. Besides its inexhaustible treasures of salt and coal, a quarry of fine marble has been recently found on the Elk river, and I doubt not that discoveries" equally valuable would reward the diligent explorer. Specimens of slate stone, and other formations with impressions of vegetable remains are common, and a gentleman of science and distinction, informed me that coral had been found deeply imbedded in rock. Among the curiosities, may be mentioned, the Callico and Pictured rocks; the former of which represents a series of beautiful and uniform figures, inscribed by some won- derful process of nature, and the latter which is evidently a work of art, exhibits a variety of rude sketches of birds, fishes and beasts-generally supposed to be 'specimens of aboriginal sculpture.

"There is, as I am informed, some miles from the bank of: the Kanawha, a curious petrified tree, and the whole country is full of Indian fortifications and mounds. From one of these ancient sepulchres an intelligent gentle- "man stated to the writer, that a human skeleton was taken not many years since, probably the remains of some distinguished chief, whose exploits in battle or the chase had won the admiration of his tribe.

"Indeed there is no department of natural history which might not be enriched by valuable acquisitions from this and almost every other portion :of Western Virginia. The development of its boundless mineral wealth would not only extend the borders of science, but materially subserve the useful arts and the interests of commerce. Let channels of inter-commu- "nication with the east be opened and multiplied by a liberal system of im- provement-let a geological survey be authorized by the Legislature, in imitation of the wise policy of Pennsylvania and Maryland-and the pa- triot will not yet despair of beholding this ancient and venerable State. re- gaining her lost rank in the confederacy.

."In enjoying the pleasures and advantages of safe transportation along "the great State road, which traverses this section, there is a spectacle often presented, which awakens a melancholy train of reflections. I allude to · the number of emigrants, who allured by the hope, sometimes deceptive, of improving their condition, are bending their toilsome march to the far west. Imagination becomes busy in conjuring up the broken ties of early asso- ciation, of kindred and country-and we read in the sorrowful visages of some of these wretched fugitives, tales of mental and bodily suffering, · which no language could express. It is true, that some of these number- less caravans present the exterior of comfort and even happiness, but for the most part it is evidently the last struggle of despairing poverty, to . escape from the hardships of its lot. Whilst the philanthropist shudders at such scenes of wretchedness, the politician must mourn over the unceas- * ing drain to population, as well as the causes which produce it. I trust, at least, if the wave of emigration must continue to flow westwardly, that the "time will shortly come, when the forests and mountains of our own Com- 48

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monwealth, will present sufficient attractions to break its force, n does not entirely arrest it."

Population in' 1820, 7,000-1830, 9,326 .- It belongs to the 19th judi- cial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, 81,520 23-in 1834 on on lots, 8180 34-land, $808 87-1197 slaves, 8294 75-2197 horses $131 82-9 studs, 889 00-22 coaches, 851 00 -- 22 carryalls, $22. 00 -- 10 gigs, 86 85. Total, 81,585 13. Expended in educating poor chil- dren in 1832, 8814 72-in 1833, 8752 88.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

BURNING SPRING. This natural[ runs through a romantic valley, with- curiosity is situated in the low grounds out receiving any tributary of any of the Great Kanawha river, 7 ms. consequence, from the junction of its north east and its west Fork, until it receives Little Coal river from the south. Much trade is carried on by the hardy mountaineers who dwell on the banks of this river, in boats for the carriage of salt, and saw logs, which are brought down in times of freshet, from a distance of an hun- dred miles. These boats sell on the above the mouth of Elk river, and -67 above that of the Kanawha. The spring is a cavity in the earth of the capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, from which issues constantly a bituminous , vapor in so strong a current as to give to the sand about its orifice the . motion which it has in a boiling spring. . On presenting a lighted candle or torch within 18 inches of Kanawha for one dollar, to a dollar the hole, it flames up in a column of and twenty-five cents for each foot in r 18 inches in diameter, and four or five feet in height, which sometimes burns out within 20 minutes, and at other times has been known to con- · tinue three days, and then has been left still burning. "The flame is un- steady, of the density of that of burn- ing spirits, and smells like burning pit coal. Water sometimes collects in the bason which is remarkably cold, and is kept in ebullition by the vapor issuing through it. If the vapor be fixed in that state, the water soon becomes so warm that the hand cannot bear it. This with the cir- · cumjacent lands was the property of

length, and the logs from a dollar to one dollar and fifty cents per log. This money is laid out in goods, with which the enterprising woodsman re- turns. The obstructions in . Coal river prevent its navigation in ordi- nary seasons. The lower falls of, Coal river are situated 5 miles above " the mouth,-and 5 miles above these are the upper falls. These falls, from the great water power which they afford at all seasons, will in time be- come places of considerable impor- tance. A few years hence and this section will become a fine wheat country. It is rapidly filling up with General Washington and of General industrious, honest and enterprising Lewis.

COALSMOUTH, P. V. 319 ms. from R. and 368 from W., situated on the south side of the Kanawha 'river, 12 ms, below the town of Charleston, and at the mouth of Coal river. This little river is about 100 yards wide at its mouth, and does not vary this width for many miles above. It is

people, and soon a plenty of the raw material will be found for manufac- tories, and if a scarcity of produce should occur by bad crops, the trans- portation from Ohio by steam boats, costs in comparison but little, and can be brought to any point, not distant three miles from either of the falls. From its local advantages and the a beautiful meandering stream, which tide of immigration, it must in a few

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years become much of a manufactu-[association with families who immi- ring country. On the river Coal is grated from Eastern Virginia, have' found a great deal of very fine land, and the country is not so mountain- ous, or the sides so precipitous as to preclude their cultivation. The quantity of game has depreciated considerably within the last 10 years, which is an evidence of the great in-

made wonderful change in the mor- als of the people. About a half mile up the river Coal, is a beautiful covered bridge. This bridge is on the turnpike road belonging to the State; below the bridge is a well graduated road, leading to and from crease of population; however the the ford, which is seldom for four industry of the inhabitants furnishies months in the year more than 12 inches deep, the water passing over a fine sandy bottom. At the bridge is a tavern kept in the best style, a black- smith shop, a tailor and carpenter shop, a house of public worship, (Methodist,) and 4 private families, with 2 regular physicians. At this place the stage passengers going to and from the west, dine. The post office is kept here, and four mails ar- rive from different points and are opened at this office-two daily and two three times a week ..: A por- tion of the land at this place has fate- ly been laid off in half acre lots, with a view of establishing a town, and some of the lots have already been sold, and many buildings are in pro- gress of erection. A large manu- factory is about going into operation, and an extensive and well assorted mercantile store has lately been es- tablished, and there is every proba- bility that Coalsmouth in a few years will become a handsome and flour- ishing village, extending from the bridge to the mouth of Coal river. The immigration to the west through this place is very great, which gives to the farmer an opportunity of dis- posing of his surplus produce, his wheat can at all times be sold at his door from 62} to 75 cents per bushel, and the cash paid. Coal river de- rives its name from the quantity of coal in which it abounds, and that of the finest quality. The resources of this neighborhood and county are in- a sufficient quantity of fine venison, and other wild game for the table, and the calculation may be in obtain- ing for years a reasonable supply for home consumption. Some few years ago the inhabitants made it one of their sources of traffic, but since the enterprise of these hardy sons of the forest has been turned into another channel, they seldom have time, or feel disposed to hunt, except to obtain venison for their own families and the neighborhood. The river affords in season the finest fish. The large black and white perch, the salmon pike, large cat fish, &c. &c. The delicious soft shell turtle is abundant, and can be obtained with little trou- ble, and is by far superior to the sea turtle. The shell is cooked and sur- passes the fine green fat turtle. Coal river is fordable four months in the year. At Coalsmouth there is a good tavern, a mercantile store, and 3 pri- vate families; about 1 mile from the mouth, down the Kenawha, isa large steam manufacturing mill, a grist and saw mill, a cooper's, a tailor's and blacksmith's shops, and 4 private families. The bottom land about the mouth of Coal is rich, and in ex -. tent about a half mile wide. The usual average crop of the farmer is 50 bushels of corn and 25 of wheat to the acre. The country at this . point has a grand and beautiful ap- pearance,-the neighborhood is com- ; posed of many refined and wealthy families ;- some few years back the calculable, and to the enterprising inhabitants were unrefined, and rude man holds out advantages truly flat- in their manners, but religion and an tering. The country is remarkably

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healthy,-no local disease is attached Branch of the Bank of Virginia, a to the neighborhood.

HANSFORD, P. O. 292 ms. from R. and 333 S. W. by W. of W., situated on the Kanawha turnpike. opposite to the mouth of Paint's creek, or as some call it, Yellow river,-21 ms. E. of Charleston, and 14 W. of the Falls of the Great Ka- nawha. The only houses are a mer- cantile store, and a house of enter- tainment. . There are in the imme- diate vicinity 3 miscellaneous stores,

1 Baptist house of worship, and a of stages froin Washington city and temperance society. The principal pursuits of the inhabitants are agri- culture, and building flat boats to navigate the Kanawha. These boats are generally from 60 to 100 feet in length.

KANAWHA C. H. or CHARLES- TON, P. V. and seat of justice, 308| ms. N. W. by W. of R., and 356 fine quarries of sandstone for build- from W. This is a beautiful little ing, and rich bituminous stone coal,. which is the common fuel. village, situated on the north bank of the Great Kanawha, at the junction of Elk river, 60 ms. above the junc- tion of the former with the Ohio, and 225 ms. W. of Charlottesville. Its vember. principal street extends about a mile JUDGE SUMMERS holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 14th of May and October, on the bank of the Kanawha, and is terminated by the Elk, which flows nearly at right angles into the former stream. Indeed there is something like enchantment in the contrast of this flourishing village, with the wild- ness and solitude of the same spot, less than 30 years past. The panther and wolf, have been driven from their savage haunts, by the march of civili- zation and refinement-and where a few scattered log huts once arrested the traveller's eye, he now sees com- modious and elegant buildings, the abodes of comfort and even of luxu- at this place.

ry. The village contains besides the ordinary county buildings, 125 dwel- ling houses, all presenting a neat and fresh appearance. There are 2 houses of public worship, (1 Presby- terian and 1 Methodist,) a female academy, and an infant school, a anywhere within that distance, by

masonic lodge and chapter, a bible society, a tract, colonization and sun- day school society. There are 13 miscellaneous stores, 3 hotels, 3 smith shops, and 1 tanyard, 2 steam saw mills, and one steam merchant mill, The Kanawha river is here a beau- tiful sheet of water, more than 300 yards wide and 20 feet deep at low water,-navigable for . steamboats. The state turnpike passess through this town, on which there is a line

Richmond to Guyandotte, which car- ries the mail from these two cities in four days and a half. Population about 800 persons; of whom 7 are attorneys, and 3 regular physicians. Charleston is remarkable for the li- berality and enterprise of its inhabi- tants. 'The hills adjacent abound with

County Courts are held on the 2d Monday in every month ;- Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No-

KANAWHA SALINE Or TERRA SALIS, P. O. 308 ms. N. W. of R., and 350 N. W. by W. of W. This is a new and small village situated on the northwestern side of the Kanaw. ha river about 6 miles above Charles- ton, containing 20 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, a Methodist, and. a Presbyterian house of worship, and 1 hotel. The town is directly con- nected with the salt trade, and . rapid- ly improving .- A daily mail arrives

KANAWHA SALT WORKS. These valuable works are situated on the Kanawha river, commencing near Charleston, and embracing a distance of 15 miles above, on each side of the river. The salt water is obtained

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boring or sinking a shaft, from three fine nevigable river, leading to a re -! to five hundred feet below the bed of gion of country which will one day! the river, through a solid rock, from be filled with almost boundless mul- which it is brought to the surface titudes of people. through the surrounding fresh water, POCOTALICO, P. O. 318 ms. from R .. and 253 S. W. of W. in copper tubes, and is raised to the bank of the river by steam engines, TEAGE'S VALLEY, P. O. 328 ms. from R. and 376 S. W. of W., situ- ty, 20 ms. W. of Charleston. and is thrown into cisterns, whence it is conveyed to the furnaces. There ated in the western part of the coun- are at present about 60 furnaces, manufacturing about one million two WALNUT GROVE, P. O. 330 ms. from R. and 379 S. W. by W. of W., situated in the western part of the county, on the left bank of the Great Kanawha river, 25 ms. below Charles- ton, and 35 above the confluence of hundred thousand bushels annually, and the quantity is only limited by the demand. The adjacent hills abound with stone coal of a superior quality, which lies in horizontal

strata, varying in thickness from 4 the Kanawha and Ohio. No town to 7 feet. 'T'he coal is conveyed from the mines to the furnace on rail roads. There has been for the last year a furnace manufacturing allum salt by steam, which is said to be equal to the imported article. At this furnace 100 bushels of this salt are made per day, Several others are erecting on the same plan, and will soon be in operation, The exports of the salt from these works in 1832, is estimat- ed as being worth to the proprietors $250,000. Seldom has it fallen to

has yet been laid out at this place, but a steam saw mill, a mercantile store, wood yard, &c., concentrate a good proportion of business.A steam manufacturing flour mill, and some other manufactories, are about going into operation, which with the advantages that the site derives from the facility of transportation in the surrounding country, the abundance of fine coal and timber in the neigh- borhood, and the facilities of the navigation, will probably place it the lot of any region of country tolamong the thriving villages of the possess such inexhaustible sources of west. mineral wealth on the borders of al

LEE.

LEE COUNTY, was taken from Russell in the year 1792, it is situated 400 hundred miles W. S. W. of Richmond,-bounded N. and W. by the Cumberland mountains, separating it from the State of Kentucky, S. by Tennessee, E. by the county of Scott, and N. E. by the county of Russel. This county is singularly laid out, owing to its lying in Powel's valley, which is narrow: it is of considerable length and quite narrow, -its ex- tent from E. to W. is 85 ins., while its width from N. to S. does not exceed 15 ms., and area 800 sq. ms., extending in lat. 36° 30' to 37º 06' and in long. 5° 35' to 6° 30' W. of W. C. This county is famous for the richness of the soil, productiveness of the lands, and largeness of the timber; among the growth of which is found the sugar maple, ash, buckeye, poplar, black and white walnut, lynn, black and white oak, maple, elin, cucumber, and beach; all of which grow very large and tall. The land is of a very black,

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rich soil, well adapted to growing com, hemp, wheat, rye, oats, Irish pota- toes and timothy.

This county has many fine and excellent springs of water, breaking out from the base of the mountains, which make their way briskly down the vallies, which are deep and narrow, and consequently afford fine mill seats. The principal mountains are, Powell's mountain, Walden's ridge, the Stone mountain, Little Beach and Big Black. Walden's ridge takes its rise in the N. E. of this county, and runs S. W. into the State of Tennessee; these mountains and ridges are all rich on the N. side, while they are extremely poor on the S. side. The N. sides of the mountains abound with limestone of very hard quality, while the S. sides are covered with free stone. There is a leading small ridge, called the Poor Valley Ridge, which is entirely the reverse of any other in this range of hills and mountains, while the others are all poor,-on the S. side it is very rich and productive, while "the N. side of this Ridge is very poor. There is a knob called Stock- er's knob in the N. E. part of the county, which is very high, 3 miles long, and at the E. end is a settlement called the Turkey Cove; and at the W. end is a another fine settlement called Yacum Station; these are two as fine settlements as the county affords. There is one other place worthy of no- tice, found among the mountains of this county, and that is a very high peak, called the Butt of Powell's mountain. The mountain here bends pre- cisely in the form of a horse shoe ;- this bend of the mountain forms a most delightful cove of 1} miles in width, which is as level as a bowling green, and as rich as the delta of the Nile, covered thickly with trees of the largest growth, and the greatest height. " Precisely N. of this high peak called .. the butt, the north fork of Clinch river takes its rise, and runs through the mountain ; this gap through which the creek runs, is one of the most pic- turesque places in western Virginia. The mountain almost perpendicular on both sides, and covered with huge masses of craggy rocks, that look as though they would tumble from their sandy foundations, and fill the deep. valley below, presents to the traveller one of the most striking displays of omnipotent power." On the E. side of this water course, we have one of the most noted salt-petre caves ever known; from which, there has been an immense quantity of salt-petre made. This cave is situated very near the top of Powel's mountain, and may be easily discovered from the valley, where you may see hillesksof the carth, from which the salt-petre has been extracted. There arealso large beds of fine iron ore, from which some years ago, there was a small quantity of fine iron made at the iron works, on the north fork of Clinch river, which works has since gone into ruins. There are also other beds of fine iron ore in this county, lying on Martin's creek, from which, there is at this time a quantity of iron made. There are row two forges situated on Martin's creek, which make excellent iron: also tivo on Indian creek, with one furnace for making castings. The princi- pal water courses, are Powell's river, Walden's creek, Martin's creek, In- dian creek and Trading creek. On the waters of this creek, the main road, ascends a considerable ridge, over which there has been a road of very an- cient date, as there are at this time, growing in the middle of the bed of the road, trees of the larges growth. 'T'he ascension of the ridge by the way of this road, shows that the greatest judgment and care, had been taken in lo- cating and constructing the road. It is supposed that it has been ages since this road was constructed, as the earliest settlers of the county, found it as above described. There are in the country of Lee, 4 Methodist churches, 3

MAP

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Baptist and 1 Presbyterian. There are 13 Methodist ministers, 6 Baptist ministers regularly ordained, and 2 physicians. The staple of this county is stock, such as beef, pork and horses,-the pork is carried to eastern Vir- ginia, the beef to Pennsylvania and Maryland, and the horses to Virginia, or North Carolina. The merchandize of every description is purchased in Baltimore, or Philadelphia. The people of this county make their own sugar and Molasses, from the sugar tree, which grows in great abundance, on the N. sides of all the mountains and creek bottoms. The tree is of a rough, short bark, spreading top and straight body, some quite white, and others very black. Those which are black have the sweetest water, and are very apt to be pecked very much by a bird of small size, called the sap. suck- er. The trees are chopped with a small axe, and bored with a small augur or gimblet, and a tube placed in the orifice, through which the water is car- ried into a small trough, placed for the purpose of catching the water. The tree which is thought to afford a common quantity of water, will, if- there is a hard freeze, and a warm day after it, afford 8 gallons of water, which will always make one pound of sugar, if carefully boiled down. The most common mode of boiling is to place the boilers in a small furnace; but ¡ this method requires more attention, to prevent the boilers from burning the sugar. There is in Lee county, probably more tree sugar made, than in any other county in the S. W. there being inore fine sugar orchards. The precise quantity is not known, but supposed between 5 and 6000 pounds, with a quantity of molasses, which, if put up in vessels will keep and improve from age. Population of Lee in 1830, 4,256 -- 1820, 6,461. It belongs to the fifteenth judicial circuit, and eight district. Tax paid in 1833, $715 12 -in 1834 on lots, $18 92-on land, $352 14-327 slaves, $81. 75- 2330 horses, $139 80-10 studs, $48 00-7 carryalls, $7 00-4 gigs, $3 00. Total $650 61. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $404 34-in 1833, $284 43.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

JONESVILLE, P. V. and Seat smith shops, 1 hatter, 1 wagon ma- of Justice, 392 ms. S. W. by W. of |ker, and several house carpenters. R. and 468 W. S. W. of W. in lat. 36°| Population 159 whites ; of whom 1 is 40' and long. 6° 02' W. of W. C., situated N. of Powell's river, on one of its branches, 65 ms. N. E. of

a resident attorney, and 1 a regular physician,-colored 37. Total 196. This village stands upon a beauti- Knoxville, Tenn. and 60 S. E. by E. ful eminence, between the Stone moun- of Barboursville, Kty. The site on which this village is located is very uneven; resembling in this respect the general surface of the county. It was laid off in the year 1793. It contains besides the ordinary county buildings, which are handsome, 40

lain and Walden's ridge, in Powell's valley, through which flows Powell's river. The scenery which surrounds it, though wild is very pleasing, and especially so when the mountains on both sides are covered with rich ver- { dure. The variety of hills presented dwelling houses, 1 house of public by the mighty growth of forest trees . rising in succession one above the other on all sides, with here and there an old grey rock jutting fromn the foliage, or a bank of moss peeping through, and nearly the whole, earth

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A new and comprehensive gazetteer of Virginia, and the District of Columbia, Part 50

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry Publication date: 1835 Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin Number of Pages: 1278

Author: Martin, Joseph. ed. cn; Brockenbrough, William Henry
Publication date: 1835
Publisher: Charlottesville, J. Martin
Number of Pages: 1278